Sophisticated Living Indianapolis May/June 2024

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Emma James Deters, of Lima, Ohio, and Henry Gus Eriksen, of Indianapolis, were married on April 23, 2023, in a private ceremony with a justice of the peace in Indianapolis, followed by a family dinner. Their parents are Darcy Deters and James Deters, and Stephanie and Jonathon Eriksen. The two are seniors at the University of Cincinnati, where they met their freshman year. Henry proposed to Emma at a location overlooking the Cincinnati skyline, recreating a handshake they had invented that ended in a

spin. This time, when Emma spun around, she saw Henry on one knee with the ring of her dreams–a classic emerald cut diamond from Reis-Nichols that he had designed with the help of his former neighbor and Reis-Nichols consultant Adrienne Gallagher. Since both Emma and Henry had exams the day after their wedding, they delayed their St. John honeymoon until the following summer. After graduation this spring, they will be moving to an as-yetundetermined city, with their English bulldog, Kya, in tow. sl



Adrienne Holland, of Westfield, and Nicholas Spencer, of Fishers, were married on September 23, 2023, at the Heirloom. Their parents are Jenny Schafer Holland and the late Bill Holland, and Kathleen and Steve Spencer. Adrienne’s aunt performed the marriage ceremony, and during the reception, a live painter was on hand to capture the scene. It seems the couple was destined to have their wedding and reception at the former Hurst Bean building–Adrienne’s family had tailgated

for years in their parking lot, and her mother joked to Nick that he and Adrienne should get married at the Hurst factory, years before it became an event venue! Nick surprised Adrienne with the proposal, featuring a custom ring from Reis-Nichols Jewelers that incorporated delicate leafing on the sides in reference to their dog, Ivy. The couple lives in downtown Indianapolis, where Adrienne is a senior biologist for Eli Lilly, and Nick is a purchasing agent for Beazer Homes. sl



Kira Singer, of Columbus, Indiana, and Noah Dukesherer of St. Louis, Missouri, were married on September 9, 2023, at the Indianapolis Artsgarden. Their parents are Suzie and Brian Singer and Elizabeth Nichols and Brian Dukesherer. The couple met when both were on the college staff of Ghost Ranch Education and Retreat Center in New Mexico, and dated longdistance for three years before becoming engaged when Noah

proposed at the Indianapolis Canal. A special moment at their wedding was the father-daughter dance, featuring a song that the bride’s brother had written and produced. Kira works in marketing and Noah is a teacher; in their spare time, they enjoy visiting national parks– a favorite trip was touring Yellowstone National Park in the winter via snowcoach and experiencing the breathtaking views. sl 11


Leslie Kitten and Tyler Wills, both of Appleton, Wisconsin, were married on February 9, 2024 at the W Reserva Conchal in Costa Rica. Their parents are Jennifer and Michael Kitten and Vicki and Robert Wills. The couple grew up mere miles from each other, but only met after college when they were introduced by

mutual friends. Tyler proposed at Chapultepec Castle in Mexico City, with a stunning custom ring by Reis-Nichols Jewelers, while they were on a trip with friends in November of 2021. The couple lives in Appleton, where Leslie is a clinical project manager and Tyler is a director of sales. sl



Christian (Chrissy) Smith and Thomas Warr, both of Zionsville, became engaged on May 13, 2023 when Thomas proposed in downtown Indianapolis with a beautiful oval diamond ring chosen from Reis-Nichols Jewelers. Their parents are Angela and Steve Smith and Teresa and Alastair Warr. The couple met in high

school and dated long-distance when Chrissy went to Purdue, and a year later, Thomas to IU. They live in Indianapolis, where Chrissy is an account manager at the MJ Companies and Thomas is an international tax consultant at Forvis. Their wedding will take place on June 8, 2024. sl 13


Viviane Linos, of Carmel, and Derek Dinslage, of Clarkson, Nebraska, became engaged on June 19, 2022, on the Greek island of Naxos at a cliffside restaurant overlooking the sunset. The couple had planned the trip to visit Viviane’s grandmother’s small village in the mountains of Naxos, where they were able to meet some of her relatives and see the house where her grandmother had grown up. Viviane said that the trip felt like

something out of a movie, but became truly cinematic when Derek surprised her with the romantic proposal. The two live in the Nora area of Indianapolis; their parents are Veni and Panos Linos and Kathy and Gene Dinslage. Their wedding will take place on June 20, 2024, in the coastal town of Anavyssos, Greece, where family and friends, both Greek and American, will celebrate with a full week of events. sl

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The Center for the Performing Arts’ annual Center Celebration gala

It’s one of the most glamorous charity events on the central Indiana social calendar, with cocktails, a sumptuous dinner, a high-dollar auction, a celebrity headliner and multiple after-parties with live music. But what is the Center for the Performing Arts’ annual Center Celebration really all about?

“The Center is widely known for its big-name Center Presents concerts at the Palladium and the great work done by our six resident companies,” says Carmel resident Adam Arceneaux, a Center board member now in his second year as co-chair of the gala, alongside first-year co-chairs Caroline and Michael Garvey. “The Center Celebration is an opportunity to generate awareness and financial support for other aspects of the Center’s mission, most notably, the educational programming that serves so many people of all ages.”

Arceneaux is managing partner for the Indianapolis office of national law firm Ice Miller, presenting partner of the Center Celebration, which this year takes place September 21 at the Palladium, with a headlining performance by Grammy-winning trumpeter and composer Chris Botti. “Our firm is proud to stand behind an institution that provides so much to the community,” Arceneaux said.

Programs supported by the gala proceeds include the Prism Project at the Center, a four-week performing arts summer camp for youth ages 6-25 with physical and mental disabilities; Science of Light & Sound, a free field-trip opportunity for school groups in

which the Center’s production technicians use the Palladium’s light and sound systems to illustrate key science principles; free morning matinees for local school groups; and classes for adults that include vocal music, songwriting, stand-up comedy instruction and ukulele instruction. There is also a transportation grant program that enables school groups to apply for reimbursement of their transportation expenses to attend Center events.

Last year’s Center Celebration 2023 presented by Ice Miller, which featured singer-songwriter Amy Grant as the headliner and drew guests including Governor Eric and First Lady Janet Holcomb, generated more than $585,000 to support the Center’s mission “to inspire and engage the Indiana community with enriching arts experiences.”

The gala revenue is generated through table reservations, corporate partnerships, direct donations, and a live auction for packages that include luxury getaways and VIP professional sports experiences, donated by Center supporters.

Hosted by five-time Grammy nominee Michael Feinstein, the Center Celebration 2024 presented by Ice Miller kicks off at 5 p.m. September 21 at the Palladium with the First Merchants Bank Red Carpet Arrival and Cocktail Reception, followed by an elegant dinner, a live auction, the Botti performance and two after-parties featuring music, dancing and refreshments. sl

Information and table reservations are available now at 23

Tucked away in New Forest, Hampshire, England, the PIG hotel is a 32-bedroom country house with a renowned restaurant. Part of a group of luxuriously charming hotels scattered throughout bucolic Britain, the original PIG is the perfect place to channel your inner Jane Austen (or Mr. Darcy). Publisher and editor-in-chief Jeffrey Cohen recently had a chance to visit several of these delightful get-aways, which offer dreamy escapes far from the maddening crowd. To learn more, see our story on page 98.

May/June 2024 8 Sophisticated Celebrations 23 More Than a Party 30 From the Publisher & Editor-in-Chief 33 Girl on Fire 36 East Meets West 38 Flower Power 40 Future Perfect 42 Inside/Outside 46 Betwixt the Bustle 52 Horsing Around 54 Amped Up 56 Home Again 60 Ho Ho Healdsburg 69 Elevate Family Living 76 You Can Go Home Again 86 Lakehouse Life 98 England, Their England May/June 2024 five dollars {Indianapolis’ Finest}
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Sophisticated Society
Grit & Grace Gala
Shapiro’s Trinity Haven Benefit Dinner
Ice Cream Man Film Fundraiser
IndyCar : An Evening with David Malukas
Amy Pauszek Celebration Party


Jeffrey Cohen


Annie Mosbaugh Knapp


Kerstie Shaw


Amy Pauszek


Neil Charles


Adam Gibson



Geri Imler

Antonio Navarrete

John Pruitt Bridget Williams


Andrew Kung

Mark Lee

Emily Lewis

Rachel Lutz

Dave Pluimer

Emily Poe



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From the Publisher & Editor-in-Chief

Last summer, my family and I got a taste of how the “0.01 percent” live…we had the unique experience of vacationing in Italy for eight days, sailing the Amalfi Coast with family friends from our daughter’s high school, to celebrate the girls’ graduation. We set sail in Naples, nine of us, plus a crew of 10, aboard the magnificent 144-foot yacht Lammouche. While we’ve been fortunate enough to travel to many idyllic places around the world, I must say this experience was truly next-level.

Our holiday began inauspiciously, however, when my daughter’s and my luggage failed to show up at baggage claim at the airport. After a frustratingly long wait, we realized we were destined to spend more than a week on a yacht with no clothes other than the ones we were wearing. Fortunately, the family we were with had two girls from whom our daughter could borrow a few bathing suits and dresses. Me? Let’s just say I enjoyed dinner under the lemon trees at Da Paolino wearing a pair of my wife’s linen pants. You can imagine my relief when after three days, the airline called, and for only $500 was able to deliver our luggage, though when it arrived, it was only my bag. When we left to return home, my wife, in a last-ditch effort, convinced an airport employee to let her check the lost-and-found…and sure enough, there was our daughter’s suitcase, where it had apparently been for over a week.

Once we set off along the coast, we relied on a well-appointed 37-foot “chase boat” to go to and from shore, though except for jaunts to restaurants or to shop, we spent most of our time on the Lammouche, which was as lavish as you would imagine. It was surreal to realize, as we anchored off Positano, that we were in between Tommy Hilfiger’s and Jerry Jones’s yachts. Before the trip, our kids spent hours bingewatching the reality show Below Deck, convinced that was what we were about to experience. (If you’ve not seen the show, it profiles a group of young luxury yacht workers, with all the manufactured drama you’d expect from the genre). One of our crew had actually been on the show, but that was where the similarity stopped–all hands were the epitome of professionalism and discretion.

Our captain was most accommodating and delightful, planning numerous excursions and diversions for us, not the least of which was an amusing water “Olympics” competition that even included the crew. One of my son’s and my favorites was hitting biodegradable golf balls off the bow into the sea. I might add, our skipper was equally serious about protecting us and his ship. There was round-the-clock security, and I don’t just mean the paintball guns the crew shot a couple of times to warn other craft that came too close for comfort.

A devout cook at home, I was in awe of our chef, who created spectacular spreads for three meals daily, plus sustenance for the crew. The fish he prepared was so fresh, the pesto exquisitely hand-made, the white wines always perfectly cold and crisp–no detail was too small. Being able to enjoy this fabulous cuisine from one of the three decks overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and pastel-colored fishing villages was nothing short of mesmerizing.

Of course, all too soon, our foray into “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” came to an end. We truly felt the crew had become our friends and we were sorry to leave them…they were an amazing group. I even got a little choked up saying goodbye to the chief stewardess, who so kindly made sure my favorite Americano was waiting for me each morning after my workout. We can’t wait to go back, and I’m already planning our next yacht outing. We’ll be touring the coast of Naples…Florida.


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Laurence Basse Returns to NYFW with "Burn This City" Collection

Compiled by Bridget Williams

Runway photos by Paolo Lanzi /

Portrait of Laurence Basse by Britt Carpenter Studios, courtesy of Laurence Basse

The road to prominence in the fashion world is rarely straight and smooth. French designer and leather expert Laurence Basse's journey to her first solo runway show during New York Fashion Week began decades ago. After being discovered by Jean-Paul Gaultier in the late nineties, Basse, a native of Normandie, France, used the money she made as a print and runway model to go to fashion school in Paris. "I loved to dress up as a kid but never thought of becoming a designer until my brother and I started making clothes in high school. We sold our clothes to the more privileged kids, so it became a hustle! People were hustling drugs, I was hustling clothes," said Basse.

Fans of Project Runway may recognize Basse as a season 15 finalist (2006) and a season 20 "All-Star" runner-up (2023). While these appearances helped elevate her status as a fashion designer, her unwavering commitment to detail and structure is what continues to garner fans, including NBA superstars Dwight Howard and Serge Ibaka, Jada Pickett Smith, actor Aldis Hodge, Grammy winner Samara Joy, and comedian/actor Yvonne Orji.

Basse's "Burn This City" FW24 collection was heavy on leather, her signature material, to which she added denim, silk, and wool. Building on a base of black, Basse incorporated tones of pink, blue, green, and sheer metallic. She collaborated with jewelry designer Mr. O Atelier to create custom-designed chain-link jewelry worn by nearly every model.

After her successful runway show, we had the opportunity to ask Basse a few questions about her long career in fashion and what's on the horizon for LAURENCE BASSE PARIS. 33
Laurence Basse
Laurence Basse

SL: As someone with a self-professed passion for "well-designed things," what made you gravitate to leather as your preferred material?

I love intricate, simple, and well-made clothes, and I already perfected working with all types of different fabrics. I needed to challenge myself, and I thought that leather was perfect for many reasons: I always thought that leather was only accessible to the rich, and I loved leather but couldn't afford it, so what better challenge than to teach myself? That's how we fell in love (leather and me).

SL: How did you remain relevant in the fashion industry between fashion school and your breakout appearances on Project Runway?

Between the time I left fashion school in Paris and created my LBP line, over 15 years went by, and I never left the fashion world. I was modeling in Paris and NYC during that time and learning the flip side of that business. Of course, it was a struggle to remain in the fashion industry, but when you love what you do as much as I do, there is no other way! I've been in fashion for so long that it's part of my DNA. I never felt pressured to have my work go in a different direction to appeal to a larger audience… that's just not me and never was! I'm an artist and a rebel at heart; I do what I feel, and if you feel me, you'll rock with me. No one can please everyone; that's why you have different brands and different styles.

SL: Describe what it felt like to have your first solo show at NYFW. Do you have a favorite piece in the collection?

It's a dream come true, definitely a milestone in my design career. It was made possible by my incredible team, led by my dear, long-time super-talented friend, MyKel C. Smith.

I have several favorite pieces, but if I have to pick one, I'll go with the all-black leather long skirt (mermaid vibes) and cropped leather jacket with short sleeves and an exaggerated collar. (bottom center image)

SL: What inspires you?

My inspiration comes from everything outside of me, just LIFE and how I feel at the moment of creating. Art is a vessel of communication for me. I am literally inspired by everything around me... it's a gift that keeps on giving. I am never short of ideas...they just keep coming… I'm blessed.

SL: Who is your ideal client?

I have two ideal clients. One of them inspired me during my youth and was instrumental: Grace Jones. My new school client, who has that je ne sais quoi, is none other than Rihanna.

SL: What is the future of LAURENCE BASSE PARIS?

The future of LBP is limitless. We will be a household name next to the GUCCI's and ST. LAURENT's of this fashion game. Let's go BIG or go home… and we ain't going home! sl For more information, follow on Instagram @laurencebasse or visit 35


The Rise of Japanese Whisky

The Land of the Rising Sun has given Westerners plenty of things to geek over, including sushi, samurai, and sake. And now, Japan has mastered a Western classic: whisky. You can put away your choko (traditional Sake glass) and exchange it for a glass tumbler as demand for Japanese whisky continues to explode. In 2022, the Japanese whiskey market was valued at $3.86 billion and is forecasted to triple in value in the next ten years. Comparatively, the US whisky market is valued at $62 billion. Still, the Westerners have also had over five centuries to perfect their craft. The first written records of whisky appeared in Scotland and Ireland in the 15th century, and it would take four centuries for those distilling techniques to migrate to Japan.

While the companies that have sprung forth from the two godfathers of Japanese whisky—Shinjiro Torii and Masataka Taketsuru—exist as rivals today, both were vital to the other's success during their lifetimes. In 1899, Torii opened his first store, Kotobukiya (known today now as Suntory), one of the first stores to sell imported alcoholic beverages, specializing in wine, but he dreamed of creating his own spirit. As his company grew, despite opposition from his executives, he decided to establish a distillery in a suburb of Kyoto, a well-known area for its excellent water quality, and where the legendary tea master Sen no Rikyu, a seminal influence on the Japanese "Way of Tea," built his tearoom.

Torri hired Taketsuru to run his distillery, as both men shared a similar vision of the future of Japanese whiskey. Taketsuru was

born into a family of sake brewers. He set off to study chemistry in Scotland in the early 1900s, where he fell in love with Scottish whiskey and women (he wed Jseeie Roberta "Rita" Cowan in 1920 despite opposition from both families). After moving back to Japan a year later, Taketsuru helped Torri establish his distillery.

The men worked together for over a decade, releasing Japan's first whisky, Suntory Shirofuda, in 1929, almost one hundred years after the first bottles of whisky were sold in the United States. Five years later, Taketsuru founded his distillery on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, where he believed the local terroir resembled Scotland's more closely. Taketsuru's company, now known as Nikka, sold its first whisky in 1940. The company was taken over and expanded by Taketsuru's adopted son after his and his wife's death. After the Second World War, Japanese whisky gained traction and popularity on the island nation.

The two distilleries fought for the top position in the 1950s as drinking whisky with Japanese food became increasingly popular. In many bars and izakaya, the "bottle keep" system, where customers could purchase a bottle of liquor and have the unfinished portion stored until the next visit, took root, as well as the popular style of drinking mizuwari (two parts of cold water mixed with one part of the spirit and some ice), which most Western whisky purists frown upon. After a decline in the 1980s, Japanese whisky rebounded in the 2000s in part due to the highball craze and Japanese whiskies garnering numerous awards and accolades. Nikka's 10-year Yoichi


single malt kicked it off when they won "Best of the Best" at Whisky Magazine's awards in 2001.

The "terroir" of Hokkaido lends itself to making excellent whisky due to its superior water quality, a climate that leads to faster maturation (producing whisky that tastes older than it is), and high elevation that results in a more flavorful, aromatic, silky smooth whisky.

Japanese whisky has found a way to marry the techniques of Scottish and American whisky styles to create its own avenue that's now become a global phenomenon. Scotch lovers find themselves drawn to Japanese whisky, as the foundation of Japanese whisky was forged in Scottish distilling techniques. However, Japanese whiskey has now taken on a life of its own: the student has become the master. Many distilleries in Japan also import Scottish ingredients to use in their whiskies, such as peat, making it more reminiscent of those dry and smoky styles.

Contrary to this, Japan is currently making its own traditions regarding whisky, similar to American whisky pioneers who enjoy experimenting and trying new flavor profiles even today. The Japanese carefully consider the water used, the boiling point given the altitude of the distillery, and local wood varieties to craft their barrels (a well-known variety is known as the rare Japanese oak tree called Mizurana). All of these give their whisky a unique taste not found anywhere else.

While Japan has an impressive range of whiskies, knowing your preferences will help you find your perfect match. If you enjoy rye

whiskey, you know it often has a drier, peppery, and spicier finish than other American whiskies. You'll likely find most Japanese whiskies pleasant on the palette as they generally resemble rye whiskies. An excellent starting bottle for beginners is Suntory's Yamazaki 12-YearOld Single Malt, which is the core expression of their single malt range and one of their brand's most well-known bottles. The whisky is floral and fruity, and its notes are similar to Scottish whiskies, but it also has a style that's very much its own. Nikka's Yoichi Single Malt is for Scottish whisky fans looking for a lightly peated whisky balanced by tropical fruits and caramel flavors on the palette.

If you're more of a bourbon fan and enjoy a smoother, sweeter whisky, Nikka's Coffey Grain Whisky is made with a majority of corn in the grain mash, giving it a sweeter, creamier finish. Nikka's From the Barrel Whiskey has notes of caramel, vanilla, and oak that Bourbon drinkers would love.

For those who want to have the full "When in Rome" experience, Suntory's Toki Whisky is an ideal choice for highballs. It is a blend of whiskies with notes of pink grapefruit, almonds, and a light vanilla finish. Pair it with sparkling water and a lemon for the perfect highball.

As the American whisky craze rages on, Japanese whisky offers an unexpected compliment to an already booming industry with new styles and unique flavor profiles. Japanese whisky is another opportunity for connoisseurs to fall in love with whisky once again and raise a glass to the future of whisky ripe with innovation; kanpai! sl 37



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BMW painted a bold portrait of the brand's future at IAA Mobility 2023, Germany's leading international automotive trade fair, unveiling the BMW Vision Neue Klasse (see the related article in our November/December issue). Building on this vision's aesthetics, technology, and sustainability, the company recently announced that the BMW Vision Neue Klasse X, part of the Sports Activity Vehicles sector, will begin production at their plant in Hungary in 2025.

With vibrant colors, efficient dynamics, and a pared-down yet forward-thinking design emphasizing spaciousness and the joy of driving, the BMW Vision Neue Klasse X presents a decidedly youthful and optimistic face.

"Neue Klasse means BMW driving at an even higher level," explains Frank Weber, member of the Board of Management of BMW AG responsible for development. "The BMW of the

future will have four totally new super-brains: high-performance computers working smartly together on what, up until now, was processed separately. We developed the first super-brain completely in-house. It integrates the entire powertrain and driving dynamics with up to ten times more computing power. The second super-brain will enable the next quantum leap in automated driving. Going forward, we will combine four key control units in a single high-performance computer. The result will be more dynamic performance, more precision, more efficiency, and even more fun to drive."

The BMW kidney grille is notably reimagined as a threedimensional sculpture with vertically aligned and backlit contours. The headlights and kidney grill operate in tandem to create a lighting effect that activates as the driver approaches the vehicle and continues in the interior.

BMW Vision Neue Klasse X

A commitment to sustainability has led to several innovations. "Verdana," a wholly plant-based, mineral-based, and petroleum-free surface material, is used on the lower portion of the door paneling and in the center console. Maritime plastics, such as recycled fishing nets, are being utilized for the first time for injection-molded parts. Recycled mono-materials comprise the side skirts and front and rear apron attachments.

Inside the cockpit, the driver's slightly elevated seating position enables a confident driving experience. A redesigned steering wheel with multifunction buttons, a Central Display with intuitive touch control integrated within the instrument panel, BMW Panoramic Vision that projects key information across the entire width of the windscreen, and advanced voice control of the BMW Intelligent Personal Assistant enhance the human-car connection. The sixth generation of BMW's eDrive technology represents its

most efficient yet, with new and now round lithium-ion battery cells and a transition to an 800-volt system, improving charging speed and range by up to thirty percent. A ten-minute charge enables a range of up to 180 miles. A reduction in drag and a brake system optimized for fully electric vehnicles combine to incrase overall efficiency by up to twenty-five percent.

"Together with the BMW Vision Neue Klasse, the BMW Vision Neue Klasse X showcases the breadth of our future BMW model line-up. The Neue Klasse reflects the variety of all the models that customers want today and in the future – from sporty sedan, with all its derivatives, to modern SAV family," says Oliver Zipse, Chairman of the Board of Management of BMW AG. "In this way, we are underlining that the Neue Klasse is much more than just a car or a specific concept; it is redefining the BMW brand – and, at the same time, will be more BMW than ever." sl 41


The gradual blurring of lines between indoors and out has led to an increased need for outdoor furniture that looks just as good as its indoor counterparts. That equals high-end, durable, and weather-resistant materials with forms that match or surpass the functional aspect of the designs.

Fernmob Balad stand ($423) and Balad lamp ($329; Darlana Large Linear Lantern ($2,179; Limbo, from Heller, designed by Hlynur Atlason is a versatile indoor/outdoor chair ($1,175; Riviera bench from Mambo Unlimited Ideas ( OASIQ’s Coco armchairs offer customers the ability to fully customize each design ( Teak Warehouse raw concrete dining table ($1,189; Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Wabi Sabi four-seat teak sofa, designed by Sutherland Creative Director Eugeni Quitllet with cushions from Perennials Fabric ( Roè chair by Francesco Meda and David Lopez Quincoces for FAST ( Florentino sofa, Esversa and Eivissa coffee trables from NV Gallery ( Native Trails Avalon 72-in concrete soaking tub ($10,590;

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This page, clockwise from top left: Riviera dinner table from Mambo Unlimited Ideas ( NV Gallery The Reunion Florentino pouf ($350; Naca Table designed by Francesco Meda and David Lopez Quincoces fpr FAST ( Molteni&C Sway sectional ( Milos outdoor seating by Vondom ( Vondom Milos outdoor coffee table ( Brezza chair, designed by Alessandro Stabile for S-Cab ( Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Petalo outdoor armchairs from Molteni&C ( Holly, a marble armchair designed by Christophe Pillett for Kreoo, is suitable both for indoor and outdoor use and it can be customized in Travertino, Calacatta Arabescato, or Bianco Carrara ( Soake Pools Garden Tub ( ‘A Piedi' and 'Occhiata' comprise a modular system of three-dimensional ceramic pieces that stack together to create a lattice of extruded stoneware or brise soleil ( 45


In a country laying claim to the world’s most densely populated city, Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island, protects and provides access to one of its last regions of true wilderness.

Hokkaido was not the Japan I expected. Deplaning at the sleepy airport in Kushiro, there was nary a geta-shod Geisha, sumo wrestler, or Harajuku girl in sight (although I'd spy the latter two several days later in Toyko). Instead, just outside the terminal were super-sized renditions of this island's most famous inhabitants: Ezo deer, Ussuri brown bears (a smaller cousin of the grizzly), Japanese cranes, and Blakiston's fish owls. Far from EPCOT's version of the Land of the Rising Sun, Hokkaido, the northernmost prefecture in Japan and the country's second-largest island, is graced with mild, low-humidity summers, sub-zero winters with heavy snowfall and a culture that's distinct from the mainland. After a week and some reflection, I surmised that what I experienced was far more authentic than the saccharine version I had anticipated.

Jet-lagged and famished following a 24+ hour travel day, arriving on Hokkaido under cover of darkness had us wondering if it was evening or predawn. Our hosts, representatives from the Japanese National Tourism Organization (,

ushered us to a van for the one-hour drive to Teshikaga Town in Eastern Hokkaido, one of Japan's few remaining places of true wilderness. We made quick work of beef and fish hand rolls washed down with Hokkaido corn blend tea that smells of freshly baked cornbread. Exclusive to the island, the unsweetened beverage was the first of many forays into culinary parts unknown.

The pungent smell of sulfur greeted us outside Oyado Kinkiyu Bettei SUIKAZURA hotel (, set alongside a hot spring river in a tiny village of a few thousand inhabitants. Slippers sat at the point where my guestroom's vestibule stepped up into the sleeping space, complete with tatami floor mats and a pair of low twin-sized platform beds. A second pair of slippers awaited outside the bathroom, which was a welcome introduction to Japan's affinity for high-tech, derriere-washing and warming toilets. It's a multifunction luxury that extends to even the lowliest gas station loo, which are always clean enough to please kawaya kami, the toilet god and household deity of Shinto, Japan's native belief system.

Yoshida Satoshi Kussharo Eco Tours with his dogs Aki and Yuki Lake Kussharo Found in eastern Hokkaido, the red-crowned crane is among the rarest cranes in the world. 47
Photo by Ondrej Prosicky

My bewildered body clock allowed me to have the hotel's onsite Kawayu Onsen all to myself (thankfully, given my nervousness about following the rules). There are more than 3000 onsen (geothermal hot spring baths) found across Japan, and specific rules for enjoying them include showering before entry, pulling up your hair, and bathing in the mineral-rich waters in your birthday suit. The most traditional onsens require that visible tattoos be covered. Following a detoxifying dip, I headed to the breakfast buffet, where I grabbed a bento-style plate and proceeded to fill the little squares with an array of mystery meats and vegetables of varying textures and viscosities, comforted in the knowledge that if my experimentation went awry, I had a stash of protein bars back in the room.

Across three days that included canoeing, snowshoeing, and skiing, a common thread among our activity guides was a deep love of the region's natural wonders, including old-growth forests, nine active volcanoes, and pristine caldera lakes. One of these, Lake Kussharo, is popular among canoers and anglers. In the winter, when chunks of ice make the lake unnavigable, enthusiasts take to Kushiro-gawa, the only river flowing out of the lake. You can travel all sixty miles of it to reach the Pacific Ocean.

Our animal-loving guide, Yoshida Satoshi—who greeted us upon arrival at Kussharo Eco Tours ( with an

injured cat contentedly convalescing in the warmth of his insulated coveralls—asked if he could bring along his well-behaved collies, Aki and Yuki, adorably outfitted in matching onesies. We floated along, admiring the pristine setting, and stopped at a natural island for hot chocolate and crispy honey-sweetened pastries made by Satoshi's wife. After our chilly excursion, we warmed up with lunch at cozy Poppotei restaurant (/ en) where I thoroughly enjoyed their Mashu-no-Megumi ramen noodles topped with locally sourced vegetables and floating in a salty cow’s milk broth (comically translated as "bovine breast milk").

You can look at but not touch the deep and pristine waters of Lake Mashu, as no trails lead to the shores of this caldera lake in Akan Mashu National Park ( akan-mashu). A lack of contaminants lends a unique deep blue color called "Mashu Blue." While two observation decks are accessible via car, during winter, when as much as 600 inches of snow falls, the road is closed, and the caldera's rim is fully accessible to those willing to strap on snowshoes and work up a sweat in search of sights. At the turnaround point of our trek, our guide, Shinobu Katase, served hot lemonade sweetened with maple syrup tapped from trees on his property. Our tour departed from the main visitor's center, whose large gift shop sells "Mashu

The Akanko Ainu Kotan
Ainu guide and sculptor Kengo Takiguch making a mukkuri

Blue" jewelry and local treats like caramels, seafood-flavored potato crackers, and yummy freeze-dried strawberries coated in creamy white chocolate.

Prior to 1868, the year that Japanese mainlanders founded Sapporo, Hokkaido's largest city, the indigenous Ainu people had been subsisting as hunter-gatherers as far back as the 12th century. Paralleling the plight of Native Americans, the Ainu saw their language and lifestyle outlawed and their traditional lands seized in the 1800s before gradually reclaiming their rights and legacy in the latter part of the 20th century. In the 21st century, the government of Japan has made efforts to revitalize the Ainu culture, uniquely in tune with the Hokkaido’s abundant natural beauty.

On the shores of Lake Akan, the Akanko Ainu Kotan ( is one of the largest Ainu settlements, introducing the Ainu culture through a multisensory experience encompassing dance, music, art, and food. At the Ikoro theatre, we were greeted by Ainu guide and sculptor Kengo Takiguchi, a man with gentle eyes and a warm smile who learned English while living in Australia. Dressed in traditional winter clothing, Takiguchi taught how to make a mukkuri, a bamboo instrument that vibrates to produce a jaw harp-like sound, before leading us on a snowshoe tour around the lake to show us how his people

relied on the trees and plants of the natural world to survive the frigid winters. We dined on traditional Ainu fare, including deer sashimi and seasonal mountain vegetables at Poronno, which has been in business for over four decades. The restaurant sits in the middle of a steep street lined on both sides by artisan shops laden with carvings of Blakiston's fish owl, the largest living species of owl that the Ainu revere as a divine being.

Going from tranquil to frenetic in the span of a few hours, we made our way from the sleepy Nakashibetsu Airport to Sapporo, a city of nearly two million inhabitants and our "base camp" for exploring the Kokusai Ski Resort. Located in the heart of the neon-lit urban jungle and within a 15-minute walk of more than 3,500 restaurants, OMO3 ( en) is a youthful offering from Hoshino Resorts with a motto of "staying up late happy." The cheery lobby displays a board with conditions at all six nearby ski resorts, a DIY ski-waxing area, and a large GO-KINJO map, a whimsical creation depicting the neighborhood's attractions and staff recommendations. The property's "OMO Rangers" offer late-night bar and restaurant tours. The all-day grab-and-go area in the lobby provides locally sourced culinary delights, such as a black bean paste with butter on bread that's a regionally popular breakfast item.

The lobby of OMO3 in Sapporo. 49
Yozorano Genghis Khan Susukino Kosatenmae offers a Hokkaido's version of Mongolian-style barbeque.

"JAPOW" is what they call the iconic powder of Japan, and for our ski day at Sapporo Kokusai (, one of the snowiest ski resorts in Japan, we had plenty of it. OMO3 offers a complimentary shuttle to the resort, about an hour away, amid the Shikotsu-Toya National Park. The drive provides a prolonged view of a picture-perfect winter wonderland as it follows the twists and turns of the Chitose River. Compared with the US, where a one-day pass can cost as much as $300, a lift ticket at Sapporo Kokusai is approximately $30 ($37 with a delicious ramen lunch (après the Japanese way); you can add on skis, boots, poles, a jacket, pants, and goggles for another $60.

After some serious stretching, awkward balance-busting drills that included single-leg skiing, and a few bunny hill runs, our ski instructor announced that our amateur group was ready for prime time and escorted us to the top of a green run. Enjoying the confidence boost from successfully navigating a graceful exit off the ski lift and the near whiteout conditions that gave us little notion of the slope's steepness, we made our way down mostly unscathed, save a few close encounters with flailing beginner snowboarders and an ill-placed but well-padded tree mid-way down the run.

Back in Sapporo, we ate and shopped our way through the neighborhood. At Semina (, we savored a Japanese take on Northern Italian cuisine. In this densely packed city, non-descript multi-story buildings contain a plethora of culinary delights, as we discovered when an elevator opened on the 5th floor and into Yozorano Genghis Khan Susukino Kosatenmae, offering an elevated view of the city's famous 50-foot-tall LED Nikka billboard. This Hokkaido take on Mongolian-style barbecue is a 90-minute all-you-can-eat and drink feast of marinated lamb, beef, pork, and vegetables cooked on a special grill with a raised mound in the center. Our hosts reveled in getting their American guests to try local delicacies, including Shiokara—squid fermented in its viscera and salt—and voraciously documenting our reactive expressions on their iPhones. The scene repeated at Sapporo's Nijo Market, where I slurped down an enormous oyster but passed on the uni.

When our hosts suggested capping off our final evening in Sapporo by experiencing the shime (late-night) parfait culture, I fully expected a basic soft serve layered with fruit and granola, so I was ill-prepared for the towering, elaborately layered, and eyepopping creation far superior to what one would typically seek out at a greasy spoon after last call. And, if you're still not ready to

Tanuki Koji shopping street in Sapporo. One of Sapporo's most famous landmarks the Former Hokkaido Government Office was built in 1888 and modeled on the Massachusetts State House
Fresh Oyter at Nijo Market in Sapporo.

call it a night, head to the Mega Don Quijote Sapporo Tanukikoji Honten. With more flashing lights than a Vegas casino, I must credit one of my travel mates for the intro to this always-open multi-floor Target-meets-Walgreens on steroids and the wonderful world of Japanese skincare products.

We had one day in Tokyo before heading back to the US, so to fully appreciate the sprawling nature of this city of 14 million in such a brief timeframe, we headed up 751 feet to the open-air observation deck at Shibuya Sky (, where you can marvel at Shibuya Crossing. During the busiest times, as many as 2,500 people cross the intersection every two minutes.

After admiring the layered and billowy yet tailored looks of the well-dressed women hustling across the famous intersection, I was excited when our wandering landed us in an upscale department store, allowing me to try to re-create the look. It was a humbling experience to say the least. "You need big size," said the petite clerk, as I held up what seemed to be an oversized dress. I knew her words were not meant as intentional barbs, just pulled from a limited well of English vocabulary. They stung nonetheless, and instead of feeling chic, I looked like someone whose checked bag was overweight, and they were piling on layers to save on excess baggage fees.

Moving onto the famous Takeshita Street in Harajuku, I marveled as people seemed to flow out of side streets like water from an open tap to form a raging current of bodies making their way past sweet shops, "cute couture" clothing boutiques and places offering interactions with various animals including otters, puppies, and pigs.

The sizzle of the iron table grill during lunch on Tsukushima Monja Street ( crush of the crowds…the discordance of hearing Taylor Swift tunes blaring on every street corner…the smell of seafood at breakfast, lunch, and dinner (particularly pungent to this piscine eschewer)…the constant pulse of neon head was on a swivel as I tried to take it all in.

The frenetic pace and sensory overload are a continuity of controlled chaos harnessed beautifully by the teamLab Borderless digital art museum (, which opened in Central Toyko in February of this year. Here, dynamic projection graphics flow from room to room, react to one another and morph along with the movement and interaction of onlookers. There's no map as you make your way through the varied installations, which left me beguiled by bewilderment, a sensation I experienced more than once during this varied journey through Japan's natural and humanmade wonders. sl

Ainu guide and sculptor Kengo Takiguch making a mukkuri 51
A gallery at teamLab Borderless digital art museum in Toyko



Adina Reyter horseshoe rays pendant ($450; Kaura Jewels Warrior Balance Horse Pendant ($750; Karina Brez Horsea lapis Night Star pendant ($4,900; Happy Horse pendant with mini paperclip chain ($1,295). Available through Richter & Phillips Jewelers in Cincinnati (richterphillips. com). Love token necklace from Heavenly Vices ( Lugano bespoke horse head diamond & ceramic ring ( Episodic Montana wrap from Vincent Peach Fine Jewelry ($8,500, Lugano black diamond stirrup earrings ( Meili citrine saddle hoops ($2,600; David Yurman Petrvs pinky ring ($2,950). Available through Moyer Fine Jewelers and Reis-Nichols Jewelers in Indianapolis, Davis Jewelers in Louisville, Clarkson Jewelers in St. Louis and Kelly Herd Pavé English Riding Boot pendant ($7,995; Capucine de Wulf Equestrian Snaffle Bit Cuff ($250; Lionheart Jewelry Lucky Emerald horseshoe charm ($2,185), Johanna tiger’s eye horse medallion ($2,370; PICCHIOTTI Horse Ring with diamonds and large cushion cut tanzanite. Available through Moyer Fine Jewelers in Indianapolis, Elleard Heffern Fine Jewellers in St. Louis, and Golden Pony ring from Seal & Scribe ( Sig Ward onyx and diamond horseshoe ring ($3,600; Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Marie Lichtenberg horseshoe ring ($15,400; 53


Ten years after its launch, the Porsche Macan is heading in a bold new direction.

Earlier this year, Porsche launched its second all-electric model: the new Macan4 and Macan Turbo. “Our aim is to offer the sportiest model in its segment with the all-electric Macan. In many ways, we are taking a very successful SUV to a new level,” says Jörg Kerner, Vice President of the Product Line Macan.

Meeting the discerning standards Porsche owners expect with the spaciousness offered by an SUV, the Macan achieves high efficiency and optimal reproducibility of power output by utilizing the latest generation of permanently excited PSM electric motors on the front and rear axles. Combined with Launch Control, the Macan 4 produces up to 300 kW (402 hp) of over-boost power to sprint from 0-60mph in 4.9 seconds and to a top speed of 136 mph. Even peppier and capable of 161 mph, the Macan Turbo, generating up to 470 kW (630 hp), only needs 3.1 seconds to hit the standstill to 60mph mark.

Under ideal conditions, the lithium-ion (HV) battery in the underbody from which the electric motors draw their energy can be charged from ten to eighty percent within approximately 21 minutes at a compatible fast-charging station. Additionally, Regenerative braking allows up to 240 kW of power to be recuperated via the electric motors while driving.

Both Macan variants boast all-wheel drive, and the electronically controlled Porsche Traction Management (ePTM) operates around five times faster than a conventional all-wheeldrive system and can respond to wheelspin within 10 milliseconds.

“Thanks to its particularly sporty seat position and low center of gravity, as well as its impressive driving dynamics and steering precision, the new Macan delivers a real sports car feeling,” explains Kerner. Thanks to Porsche Active Aerodynamics (PAA), which has


active and passive elements and a drag coefficient of 0.25, the new Macan is one of the most streamlined SUVs on the market.

For the first time, the Macan is available with optional rearaxle steering, with a maximum steering angle of five degrees. It enables a compact turning circle of 36.4 feet in urban traffic and when maneuvering while simultaneously enabling exceptional driving stability at higher speeds.

While the compact SUV’s lines are undeniably Porsche, designers added distinctive elements to the all-electric variant, such as a shallow-pitched hood and strongly pronounced fenders that lend a dynamic appearance even when stationary. A longer wheelbase, offset by short overhangs at the front and rear, can be optioned with 22-inch wheels with staggered tire fitment. The Porsche flyline forms a unit with the flat rear window. The sleek, sporty design

is further pronounced by frameless doors with characteristic side blades. A benefit of electrification is increased luggage space, up to 18 cubic feet behind the rear bench seat, depending on the model and equipment fitted. A “frunk” offers an additional 2.9-cu-ft of storage.

The driver positioning is low, spacious, and performancefocused, with large windows and a mix of digital user interfaces with select analog control elements. The new Macan enables a high degree of customization with high-quality and sustainable materials, such as leather-free seats comprised of recycled interior elements and floormats and flooring using Econyl®, which is made from regenerated nylon.

The new Macan will be produced at the Porsche Plant in Leipzig. MSRP for the Macan 4 is $78,800, while the MSRP for the Macan Turbo is $105,300. sl 55


The Omni Homestead, America’s oldest resort, reasserts its prominence following a $150 million renovation.

My favorite activity while roaming the hallowed (and hopefully happily haunted) halls of a historic hotel is to imagine what the guest experience would have been like in a bygone era. It's an easy exercise at America's oldest resort—The Omni Homestead in Hot Springs, Virginia— founded ten years before the signing of the Declaration of Independence, where legacy and luxury receive equal billing, even fresh off a $150 million renovation. This star of the Shenandoah Valley sits amid 2,300 acres, offering guests abundant activities inside and out.

The sprawling 483-room resort has an interesting tie-in to my hometown of Louisville, as both can credit their origins to Captain Thomas Bullitt (1730-1778). In 1764, Bullitt, along with Charles and Andrew Lewis, paid 30 shillings to acquire 300 acres that included seven hot and warm springs, and within two years built the first Homestead, named in honor of the homesteaders who built the resort and bathhouses. The original wooden 18-room inn was destroyed in a fire and replaced with a brick structure that stands today. Less than a decade later, Bullitt led a 40-man surveying party into Kentucky, where he laid out a town site near the Falls of Ohio, which later became Louisville.

Twenty-four U.S. presidents, including Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and George W. Bush, have vacationed here. This National Historic Landmark enjoyed Gilded Age ownership by scions of industry and banking whose last names are synonymous with success. It's where a teenaged Jacqueline Bouvier learned to play golf on one of the first golf courses in America, The Old Course (built in 1892, its first tee is the oldest in continuous use in the U.S.). And it's where I was lucky enough to spend a few blissful days in early spring.

Our visit coincided with spring break, and while some fellow empty-nesters would be less-than-pleased, I loved seeing all the youthful energy. It reminded me of my last visit more than a decade ago with my daughter, who fondly remembers putting on her fanciest frocks for dinner each evening. I can't help but think that the place's grandeur fondly lingers in children's subconscious for a lifetime. My spacious room, which overlooked the resort's verdant" backyard," was buzzing with families playing badminton, croquet, catch, and more from early morning until the last rays of sunshine disappeared behind the Allegheny Mountains.

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Originally built in 1761, the Warm Spring Pools recently reopened following a $4 million rehabilitation.

Immediately upon arrival at the recently renovated resort, I could sense a difference in the best way, akin to the work of a deft plastic surgeon. In the soaring colonnaded Great Hall, a long handmade carpet enlivened with a vibrant floral motif dotted with butterflies bisected comfortable seating areas where children squared off against a sibling or grandparent in a chess match. The room is the site of a daily afternoon tea and cookie social complemented by live music.

Once I put down my bags, I headed straight for the spa complex. The resort is so large that it was a workout on its own to reach the impressive 60,000-square-foot homage to wellness, which encompasses a stunning indoor pool (a suitable locale for a silver screen aqua musical starring Esther Williams); a vast fitness area with a boxing studio; men's and women's spa areas with an aqua thermal suite; and an adult's only Serenity Garden with a geothermal Octagon Pool, deluge shower and River Reflexology Walk fed by two hot springs rich in magnesium, potassium and calcium.

For an even more immersive healing water experience, make an appointment to "take the waters" at the historic Warm Springs Pools,

a five-minute drive from the resort and recently reopened after a $ 4 million rehabilitation. While the healing properties of the waters were known to Native Americans thousands of years ago, the original octagonal stone basin that held the water for bathing was built in 1761, establishing it as the first spa structure in America. Our soak in relative silence was made even more magical via a gentle rain that fell through the oculus in the faceted roof.

Equally enchanting is the naturalist-guided Cascades Gorge hike. Rated as intermediate but easily accessible if you can handle short flights of stairs spread over 1.8 miles, the trail follows a deep gorge near the resort's Cascades Golf Course, where a natural spring feeds more than a dozen waterfalls and cascades. It's just one of scores of available year-round outdoor activities. In winter, the resort's ski area offers 45 acres of tubing, skiing, snowboarding, ice skating, and snowmobiling. More temperate weather pursuits include falconry, hiking, biking (or e-biking), kayaking, tennis, horseback riding, golf and mini-golf, zip-lining, a pool complex complete with a lazy river and waterslides, and a shooting club dramatically positioned on a mountaintop offering

The Great Hall The Washington Library Premier King Guestroom
President's Suite Bathroom

skeet, sporting clays, and a five-stand course (and where a patient instructor "fixed" my aim).

During a rainy afternoon back on property, we did a bit of shopping, followed by a unique Virginia Wine Experience, during which I was surprised to learn that winemaking in the Commonwealth predates Thomas Jefferson's formation of the Virginia Wine Company by 154 years. Quyhn Cohen, The Omni Homestead's sommelier, who is also a certified yoga instructor who leads a regular "poses and pairings" class, has assembled the best offerings from the more than 300 wineries operating in Virginia today, including unique blends and wines made from America's oldest grape, Norton, first cultivated in Richmond.

Our short stay afforded us a taste of two of the resort's signature dining experiences, the American Audubon Dining Room and Jefferson's Restaurant. At the former, the elegant environs, complete with crystal chandeliers and piano music, are a fitting backdrop for the equally elevated cuisine, served with gracious aplomb. In an era of increasing casualness regarding apparel, it was a nice change of pace to see families dressed for

dinner. I continue to be amazed at how donning a blue blazer can somehow get even the most fidgety five-year-old to behave.

We ate heartily at Jefferson's, indulging in a juicy steak topped with truffle butter, with a side of honey-fried Brussels sprouts, and washed down with a pour of Blanton's bourbon from the resort's barrel pick. The clubby Presidential Lounge is an ideal spot for a nightcap and a game of pool. Martha's Market, the resort's popular, all-day outlet, was our go-to for a mid-day sweet treat, and where I enjoyed roaming the room to read anecdotes about past guests of note, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor who scoffed when receiving a bill at the end of their stay. "What do I do with this? I'm not used to paying bills," the Duke purportedly remarked (while tempting, I did not employ this tactic at checkout).

During our exploration, we wandered into the courtly Crystal Room, empty save for a grand piano in one corner, upon which a teenager wearing basketball shorts was playing "Something Like This" by Coldplay. How fitting, I thought, that this space, which hosted fêtes with ladies in hoopskirts in the 1800s, was now holding the attention of a boy attired for an entirely different hoops game. sl

Presidential Lounge Virginia wine experience American Audubon dining room 59
Cascades Gorge

'Twas the First of December in Healdsburg, C-A. All the citizens were stirring for the holiday kickoff this day.

The vendors were staged round the square with care

Knowing that soon, customers (and St. Nicholas) soon would be there.

A steady drizzle couldn't dampen the cheer, as a countdown progressed and the tree lights appeared

While carolers' dulcet tones tickled the ears, the clip-clop of hooves announced that Santa was near.

The children's eyes widened as the sleigh came into sight, capping off what ended up being a very good night.



plans now to kick off your holidays in the heart of California's wine country.

Charming any time of year, the heart of historic Healdsburg— established in the mid-1800s by Ohio native and gold prospector Harmon Heald—is its square. An impressive array of top-notch restaurants, up-scale lodging, tasting rooms, boutiques, and art and jewelry galleries pack the streets facing the central plaza. During the holidays, the scene is made even more magical via Merry Healdsburg Tree Lighting, hosted by the Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce and Stay Healdsburg (stayhealdsburg. com). Lucky guests in rooms at the front of the 56-room Hotel Healdsburg (, located on the western edge of the square, have a prime view of the massive Christmas tree and can enjoy its twinkling lights throughout the season from their Juliette balcony.

This December will mark the fourth-annual Merry Healdsburg event, which includes a Holiday Market, carriage rides, live music, and photos with Santa. The Christmas cheer continues the day after the tree lighting with a Holiday Sip & Shop, during which nearly two dozen participating local shops offer ticket holders extended hours and tastings of the area's award-winning wines. A Holiday Tea at Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen in Hotel Healdsburg ( offers the opportunity to enjoy a festive

afternoon out with friends and family of all ages. The elegant afternoon unfolds with piano accompaniment, custom-blend teas, and picture-perfect sweet and savory bites. I don't know what magical spell was cast or bribes made, but we were absolutely enrapt by the number of children in their Sunday best acting their best, which added another level of enchantment.

Healdsburg is perfectly positioned amid the Dry Creek, Russian River, and Alexander Valley AVAs, and the area around the square is home to more than two dozen tasting rooms. Opened last summer, the elegant tasting room of Ernest Vineyards (, designed by LA-based interior designer Matt O'Dorisio, is a fitting pairing for tasting their site-specific wines. Co-founder Erin Brooks and winemaker Joseph Ryan put a premium on vine health, employing organic and regenerative farming methods on their 35 acres of vineyards spread across several distinct cool-climate sites on the Sonoma Coast. Brooks, a Texas native, exited a fast-lane career in tech for a bumpier but far more scenic backroad adventure as a self-taught vintner. Her analytic and technical skills have not fallen by the wayside, as her company boasts one of Wine Country's most sophisticated production facilities, which she makes available to fellow small producers.

The Montage 61

A voracious reader with a nearly insatiable quest for intel on topics in which she's interested, Brooks said that she went from a wine consumer to an enthusiast and now a zealot. She began by tasting lots and lots of wine up and down the Sonoma Coast to define her palette, cold-calling growers, imploring them to sell her grapes, and seeking mentorships from respected vintners and winemakers. While she always felt confident that the "dominoes would eventually fall into place," Brooks says the training wheels didn't come off until she met Ryan. "We just feathered together like two siblings." Ryan, an Iowa native and fellow chardonnay champion, worked in Burgundy and Sonoma County. He executes Brooks' vision for "Burgundian-style wines offering bright acid, low alcohol, minimal oak, and balanced flavor."

When we weren't sipping or shopping—French textiles at Maison Smith (, unique men's and women's clothing and accessories at Susan Graf Limited (, beautiful tableware from Forager (, and all the pretty things for home and her at Anthem (anthemsf. online), we were eating, a lot. Food always tastes fresher to me in

California. We had no regrets about making quick work of warm Belfiore burrata and fluffy-crust pizza drizzled with truffle oil at the lively PizZando (, located near the entrance of Hotel Healdsburg.

My better half, a committed carnivore, was skeptical about dinner at a one-hundred-percent plant-based restaurant. By the end of our meal at Little Saint (, he didn't miss meat for a moment. Designed as a community gathering place and creative haven, the sprawling two-story establishment encompasses a restaurant, coffee bar, wine lounge, cocktail bar, gourmet graband-go, and music venue outfitted in bohemian-luxe style.

We were thrilled to see that the carrot tahini, cultured carrot spread with tomato chutney, and green lentil hummus we enjoyed as part of a tasting at nearby Marine Layer Wines several years earlier were among the available starters. Just as good as we remembered, we begged the chef to release a cookbook so we could recreate them at home, along with our entrees: a vegan winter squash lasagna with cashew ricotta and a Maitake mushroom au poivre with brandy cream.

Merry Healdsburg Tree Lighting Hotel Healdsburg holiday entrance. The event green at Hotel Healdsburg Tons of truffles topping Maitake mushroom au poivre with brandy cream at Little Saint There are more than 80 wines by the sip or glass to explore along the wine wall at The Matheson. 63
Dining room at Little Saint Tasting room of Ernest Vineyards

Little Saint's inventive and impressive cocktail menu offers a respite for wine-weary imbibers. At the same time, their conscientious wine list highlights winemakers who are aligned with their business ethos of treading lightly on the earth.

Nirvana for oenophiles, the wine wall at The Matheson offers 88 wines by the dram or glass. While it's obviously heavy on Russian River Valley offerings, there are also popular European classics and several under-the-radar surprises for adventurous imbibers. Similar to Little Saint, the three-story building is home to distinct concepts. Under the leadership of chef/owner Dustin Valette, ambitiousness doesn't hamper ambiance or experience as we enjoyed a delightful seasonally focused dinner in the bustling space, packed to the gills with beautiful people.

A fun spot for breakfast or lunch, don't miss what is likely the largest assemblage of nutcrackers you're sure to spy in one place at Costeaux French Bakery ( From November through mid-January, the century-old institution displays whimsical wooden characters of all sizes, which Will Seppi, the current president and CEO of the bakery, refers to as their "Nutcracker Orphanage."

capped our Healdsburg holiday with a short drive from the square at The Montage (, a 258-acre retreat where the 130 modern bungalow-style guestrooms are surrounded by steeply sloped vine-covered hills and stately moss-covered California oak trees. The Montage's sprawling spa boasts one of my favorite fitness studios with a stunning view of their adults-only zero-edge outdoor pool (for a fun off-property workout, book an E-Bike and grab a winery map from Gateway Adventures——to embark on self-guided tour of the area). The refined setting at Hazel Hill, the resort's all-day dining destination, mirrors the terroir-to-table cuisine, quintessentially California with a touch of je ne sais quois .

Elegantly outfitted for the season, the indulgent escape offers tree and menorah lighting ceremonies and other special activities, including a wreath-making workshop. While the décor at The Montage isn't at all saccharine, its daily afternoon hot chocolate station, with a dizzying array of confectionery accouterments, would definitely satiate even Santa's sweet tooth. sl

Hazel Hill at The Montage Healdsburg Gateway Adventures offers guided and DIY bicycle and E-bike winery tours Forestview guest bungalow at The Montage Healdsburg
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How to create an exquisite outdoor oasis

No longer is a backyard simply a grassy area behind your home, but an upscale space that extends indoor living to the outdoors, where families bond and friends mingle. Options for enhancing backyard space are limitless; however, choosing where to start can be intimidating. The following considerations will help you determine which features to incorporate into your dream outdoor living space.

• Function - Identify how you envision using your new outdoor space. Dining? Entertaining? Activities? Relaxation? Family togetherness?

• Location - Sketch out a simple plan of where you want to locate your outdoor oasis. Look at the topography and orientation to sun, wind, privacy, and existing landscape.

• Budget - Establish a budget range, including must-haves and a wish list. Costs can fluctuate wildly depending on materials, labor, and ongoing maintenance.

• Style - Harmonize your home’s architecture and your personal tastes with features that complement your style–rustic, contemporary, traditional, classic, eclectic. What is your vibe?

Features - Now that the basics are established, it’s time to have some fun with what is going to bring your outdoor space to life.

• Water - From the trickle of a small water fountain to a natural pond or swimming pool, a water feature is a delightful addition.

• Kitchen - For the grill master, this is a must-have–consider incorporating a grill, countertop, sink, and cookware storage.

• Dining - Place a table and chairs near your grill master station. How many do you want to seat? Round or rectangle?

• Shade - Look at your sun exposure as well as your style. From a simple umbrella to pergolas, retractable awnings, and motorized vertical blinds, there is a solution that will help provide relief from the sun’s rays.

• Fire - Extend the seasonal use of your outdoor living area with a fire pit, fire table, or fireplace for warmth and ambiance, as well as a focal point and gathering place to make s’mores.

• S ports - Putting greens are a perfect enhancement and everyone can play regardless of age or skill. That is true for bocce ball, horseshoes, or cornhole. Other options are a swimming pool, volleyball pit, or soccer goal. What better way is there to encourage wellness than activities in the backyard?

• Comfort - Create a relaxing area to cuddle with a blanket or family member at the end of a long day. Think about adding weather-friendly, cozy outdoor seating, rugs, blankets, fans, or heaters for temperature control as the seasons change.

• Privacy - As homes get bigger and lots get smaller, there can often be a lack of privacy. Intimacy in your own space is an important part of planning. Hedges, fences, living walls, and vertical gardens are just a few solutions that provide a sense of seclusion, even if you live in a large neighborhood.

• Landscaping - The final touch is in the beautiful landscaping. Mix it up and have some fun with perennials, evergreens, trees, annuals, and edibles. A qualified designer will work closely with you to create the landscape you desire. Don’t be afraid to add herbs and vegetables to your garden beds alongside boxwoods and hydrangeas to create your own mini farm-totable experience.

This is just a short list of considerations while planning your personal oasis and extended living space that will add value to your lifestyle and your home. While it may seem overwhelming to turn your backyard vision into reality, in the long run, your investment will elevate your enjoyment and memories for years to come. sl

For more information, visit 69
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The quintessential delights of New Orleans never disappoint

Nestled in the heart of the vibrant French Quarter in New Orleans, Hotel Monteleone stands as a timeless symbol of luxury and Southern hospitality. Its location on Royal Street places guests in the midst of the city’s cultural and culinary treasures, making it an ideal choice for those seeking an authentic New Orleans experience. Last fall, my wife and I took our son for what has become something of a family tradition: a few days in my hometown to take in a Saints game and to enjoy some of the finest hospitality the Crescent City has to offer.

Whenever our travels take us to New Orleans and Hotel Monteleone, we are welcomed like long-lost cousins. And one never knows, perhaps I am. Escorted to our stunning suite in the historic Iberville Tower overlooking the French Quarter and the Mississippi River, we could hardly have wished for a more auspicious location from which to enjoy our daily expeditions. The newly restored and beautifully updated tower offers 200 guest rooms and 48 “superior suites,” the very definition of the cradle of luxury.

One of the oldest continuously family-owned hotels anywhere, Hotel Monteleone was founded in 1886 by Antonio Monteleone, an industrious nobleman who operated a shoe factory in Sicily before immigrating to New Orleans. After opening a successful cobbler’s shop in the city’s bustling French Quarter, Monteleone bought a 64-room hotel (then known as the Commercial Hotel) on the corner of Royal and Iberville streets in 1886, and made multiple additions and expansions to the property. In 1908, the name was changed to Hotel Monteleone, and it has remained a five-star example of the city’s unique style of hospitality, adding a sophisticated urban component to the infectious charm that seems to come so naturally to so many of its inhabitants. Even though New Orleans might lie geographically in the south, it is not a southern city. As one local chef once put it, “New Orleans is a northern annexation of Haiti.”

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This is especially true of the food. Arriving in town a bit too late for lunch and too early for dinner, the three of us unpacked our bags, splashed some water on our faces and headed across Canal Street, through the Warehouse District to one of our favorite spots, Cochon Butcher, which over the past couple of years has become our son’s favorite eatery. Producing all the salume and sausages for their sandwiches in-house, as well as an array of house-made pickles, jellies, jams, mustards and sauces, Butcher also bakes its own bread and offers a fine selection of knives and kitchenware. Our son once again enjoyed the burger, while my wife noshed on a barbecue sandwich and I dug into my perennial muffuletta. So exceptional was the meal that we made plans to return for lunch before the end of our trip.

That evening we stopped for drinks at Hotel Monteleone’s celebrated Carousel Bar & Lounge. Opened in 1949, this eye-popping venue is New Orleans’ first and only rotating bar. Its charming carousel theme and unique design provides a visual treat that I do not think I have experienced anywhere else. Specializing in bourbon and classic cocktails, with a short but appetizing selection of small plates, my wife and I enjoyed Sazeracs, a quintessentially New Orleans cocktail, while rotating gracefully around the room once every 15 minutes.

The following day was game day. Before heading out on the town, we partook of a late Southern-inflected brunch at the hotel’s exemplary Criollo Restaurant. With a nod towards healthy living, we enjoyed some fresh fruits and granola, followed by avocado and Louisiana crab toast, before diving into the French market-style beignets, complete with praline sauce. Suitably fortified for the day, we rode the St. Charles Avenue Streetcar Line past the beautiful homes in the Garden District, onward to Tulane University and Loyola University New Orleans, and past Audubon Park, where my mother used to take my sister and me as kids to play, and to the zoo. The second-to-last stop on the St. Charles line is in front of a classic diner, The Camellia Grill. Here, we grabbed an early dinner of po’boys and milkshakes before heading to the Superdome for the game.

The Iberville Tower Suite at the Hotel Monteleone 79
The Carousel Bar

My beloved Saints had endured something of a mixed season up to this point, to put it mildly, but I remember still carrying a degree of optimism about the potential for a strong showing. On game day, the city, a festive enough place even during its quietest hours, was a riot of sound and color, the scenes of jubilant partying more reminiscent of a European soccer final than an NFL game. We could not have asked for a better vantage point; our seats, courtesy of a childhood friend who joined us for the game, were right on the 50-yard line and have been in his family for half a century.

The next morning, I followed my usual routine of a visit to The Monteleone’s fitness center followed by coffee at Criollo. Located on the roof, the gym is all glass, giving the impression that one is hovering over the French Quarter and the river. After breakfast, the three of us paid a visit to the National World War II Museum. Offering a compelling blend of sweeping narrative and poignant personal accounts, the museum features immersive exhibits, multimedia experiences, and an expansive collection of artifacts and first-person oral histories, taking visitors inside the story of the war that changed the world. For our son, who is from a generation that barely knows that there was a second world war, let alone its importance in global history, this was a wonderful opportunity for some intense education. I highly recommend a visit for anyone with an interest in our history and what it implies for our future.

The National World War II Museum is a must-see. 81
Horse-drawn carriages stand ready outside the St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square.
Le Petit Chef’s butter-poached lobster tail

Afterwards, we took a leisurely stroll back to the hotel, stopping on the way for coffee and more beignets, and yet more sneakers for our footwear-obsessed son. With the temperature pushing the low 80s, we spent the afternoon at the rooftop pool and, of course, its Acqua Bella Poolside Bar. That night, we enjoyed a very special dinner at Criollo, where we participated in an immersive theatrical experience called Le Petit Chef. In collaboration with TableMation Studios, this is an innovative approach to dining that turns the tabletop into a screen on which the world’s “smallest chef” tells the story of the meal in a series of animated tableaux. Again, the food, wine and service were absolutely exemplary.

On our last full day, after a tour of two of my favorite landmarks, Old Ursuline Convent Museum and St. Louis Cathedral, we dined with friends at Mr. B’s Bistro across the street from the hotel. Here we enjoyed a couple of dishes I have learned to replicate at home: seafood gumbo and barbeque shrimp. Back at the Carousel bar, things were hopping, and space was at a premium. The same could be said for the entire French Quarter, with the Saints playing on Thursday Night Football, it being Homecoming and Family Weekend at Tulane, and LSU playing at home in nearby Baton Rouge. It was one big, generally happy, party, and it made me feel fortunate to be able to return every year. Heading up to our gorgeous suite in the luxuriously appointed Iberville Tower, we packed our bags for the trip home the next day, tired but happy, and already counting down the days to our next visit. sl For more information, visit 83
Criollo takes beignets to the next level.
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Making a splash with Gary Nance Design

When the cold winter weather first begins melting into sweet springtime, the call of lake life and summer days spent soaking up the sun and fun begins to whisper throughout the scented air. With June and July right around the corner, that whisper is sure to reach a crescendo as people flock to the water’s shore. Whether it’s on a lake in the mountains of Colorado or by the shores of a well-known Great Lake in Michigan, the goal of having a lakehouse is almost always the same: to escape and relax while creating memories with family and friends. And no one knows lake houses like Gary Nance of Gary Nance Design. With over 60 houses in a plethora of locations across the country, Nance’s extraordinary experience in this market has helped to make the dreams of lake life a reality not just for today, but for many generations to come.

Nance dipped his toe into lake house development and design many years ago at the beautiful Lake Wawasee in northern Indiana. Much like the waters this home is situated on, a trickle of an idea grew into a wave of demand from others wanting their own lake house by Gary Nance Design. Today, Gary has worked

on more than a dozen homes on just this one beautiful lake. As inspiration continued to strike, word-of-mouth spread into other areas of Indiana, including Lake Maxinkuckee, located in the town of Culver, Indiana. By the end of 2025, he will have designed at least 34 of the houses on Lake Maxinkuckee alone, an impressive number by any comparison.

With each new build or renovation, Nance’s portfolio has deepened like the waters of the lakes he frequents. Summers in Michigan led to more clients seeking out his knowledge and designs to create “retreats to get away from the nonsense of our everyday lives,” says Gary. Harbor Springs beckoned with more opportunities to test his hand at creating a paradise for families. From Oswego Lake to Higgins Lake, Lake Charlevoix to Torch Lake, the demand for this designer’s lake houses flooded his business. With a footprint reaching even further into Florida, Georgia, Montana, and beyond, it is safe to say that Gary Nance Design has mastered the art of capturing and creating a home meant for making lifetime memories at the lake.

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A soaring, sunlit entry in a Gary Nance-designed lake house

Nance uses a wide variety of materials and textures to evoke an organic feel.


Kitchens are the heart of any lake home, and Nance designs them to work for both families and groups of guests.


desiging lake homes, Nance is always mindful of maximizing views. 89
Nance’s lake home designs always include private spaces where owners can retreat and recharge.
A stunning fireplace creates an inviting spot for relaxing at the end of a busy lake day.


vibrant screening room offers a fun place to hang out and watch movies on a rainy day. 91
Nance ensures owners’ suites are luxe and restful, with commanding views.
Lake homes must offer plenty of outdoor living space, and Nance delivers on every level.

Lake houses offer a completely different feel and process for design than city homes. Since clients are looking for a place to get away with family and friends, Nance takes into account a vast amount of issues not seen in regular builds and renovations. No matter if the desired result is a modern or traditional lake home, all of them require a dive into the logistics of lake living. “There are a whole set of strategic things you need to implement in a lake house as opposed to a city house,” Gary says. “You’ve got to gear it towards a multitude of people…and how do you make that all work with a variety of age groups?” For the people, and the pets, that might inhabit his homes, all angles of functionality must be considered. In terms of physical spaces, large rooms for gathering and private areas to retreat to when needed are essential. There need to be enough bedrooms, bunk rooms and bathrooms for all the guests enjoying the day, week, or month of fun at the lake. With regard to daily activity, considerations ranging from wet floors to beach towel placement, life jacket storage to sloped drains, covered outdoor grilling to enough refrigerators to keep food and beverages chilled, no aspect is overlooked. But all of these challenges excite Gary, who says, “The ease of total outdoor living is…the driving force in designing a lakehouse.”

Many of the lake houses Nance has worked on also defy a certain set of rules followed with city homes. Some oddities are allowed, from wayward rooflines that have been added over generations to evolved window lines where the most important criterion is a fabulous view of the lake. With each house, he keeps these historical features within the design, allowing moments from the past to blend into

the updated home. This also applies to the more relaxed atmosphere that accompanies the building or renovating of a lake house. “When you’re doing a client’s lake house, they seem to have a different exuberance and happiness about them because it’s something fun,” he says. “It’s just a whole different scenario,” and a niche that he’s exceedingly happy to continue to help design to its fullest. As he notes, “The future of lake houses is unlimited.”

Nance doesn’t hesitate to insist that his favorite piece in his portfolio is always the next one. But if he had to choose a few to highlight, a classic build on Michigan’s Lake Walloon comes to mind. With its timeless design and style, Gary says, “It was a legacy, a oncein-a-career type of project.” Another interesting build includes a home where he was asked to use wall planking to mimic a boat deck in a bathroom, along with utilizing boat hardware within its features. The result was a success, not to mention breathtaking. But perhaps his most unique home design included a prayer chapel, complete with pews, alcoves for communion, and all of the aspects of a small church.

What started as a little cottage renovation on Lake Wawasee went from a trickle to a steady stream of projects for Gary. It’s not just the elements of creating and designing that are important to him–it’s the families he’s able to get to know as he helps to bring them together beside these beautiful bodies of water, in homes that harbor moments and memories long felt after the warm sun has set for the season. As he says, “Lake houses take on the personality of the families. They become enduring legacies for the future generations of family and friends.” sl For more information, visit 93
Incorporating and highlighting existing features, such as this gorgeous tree, is a hallmark of Gary Nance Design.
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in the British countryside

Awakening from a brief nap, I take stock of my surroundings. I am lying face-down on a table in a smallish rustic space adorned with watering cans, balls of twine and gardening implements. Then I remember where I am: in a potting shed-turned treatment room at the end of a vegetable garden adjacent to a country house hotel 20 minutes outside of Bath in western England. I half-expect Peter Rabbit to come flying through the door, closely pursued by Mr. MacGregor, but fortunately, the most exciting thing that happens to me is that I receive a luxuriously unwinding massage that soothes away the various aches that have accumulated over an eight-hour flight from the States followed by a 90-minute train ride from London’s Paddington Station.

I was there at the generous invitation of Visit Britain and the PIG group of country house hotels and restaurants. Promoted as “restaurants with rooms,” the PIGs offer a manor house experience that is unique and utterly captivating. Composed of five journalists from the United States and Canada, and our escort from Visit Britain, our small group was led on a tour through the English countryside to visit several of the eight PIG hotels. Fortunately, we enjoyed the services of a chauffeur and a comfortable MercedesBenz Sprinter van, rather than having to deal with driving on the “correct” (as the Brits call it) side of the road ourselves. Comprehensive as public transportation may be in Britain’s cities, in the country, it is a different proposition entirely.

Now celebrating its 10th anniversary, the PIG hotel near Bath was the first of three we would visit on a six-day tour of this most charming and visually arresting part of England. In addition to eating and drinking exceptionally well, our itinerary included excursions to locations used in films and TV shows, including, amongst others, Bridgerton, Ammonite and Dunkirk . Anyone who subscribes to Britbox has seen large swathes of the English Southwest in such productions as The French Lieutenant’s Woman, Harry Potter and Peaky Blinders . With so many square miles of unspoiled flora and fauna, and pristine period architecture, this little corner of the world has become a location scout’s paradise.

First mentioned in an Anglo-Saxon charter of 936 AD, the hamlet of Hunstrete was part of the Abbey of Glastonbury for 600 years, and included a deer park, the very same park that I found myself strolling by on our first afternoon at the PIG. The current house was built out of Bath stone as a lodge for an even larger (no longer existent) home in the 18th century, changing hands a few times before becoming a hotel in 1977. Lying between the Cotswolds and the Mendip Hills, this is one of the most charming and bucolic settings one could imagine. All the cliches are true: lush meadows, rolling hills, picture-perfect gardens and fairy-tale houses comprise a landscape that is the perfect synthesis of nature and nurture. No concrete strip malls here, no urban sprawl; it was clear to me that the English are particularly proud and protective of their heritage.

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The kitchen garden at THE PIG on the Beach

Dinner in the hotel on our first evening was a revelation. I consider myself a seasoned diner, but never have I experienced such an astonishing dedication to freshness and simplicity of preparation. At the heart of the PIG’s culinary philosophy lies the kitchen garden. Each menu every day is driven by produce grown in each restaurant’s on-the-spot garden, which may include fruits, herbs, greens, beans, mushrooms and root vegetables. Chickens and pigs (as well as venison) are raised on-site, and organic methods are rigorously applied. Pickles, jams and jellies are produced in the kitchen; almost nothing is store-bought. The PIGs offer a 25-mile menu, a guarantee that 80% of ingredients will be sourced within 25 miles of each hotel.

The county of Somerset is home to 8,500 farmers, so the diversity of meats, fish, produce, wine, beer and spirits is mindboggling. Featuring smoked mackerel pâté, roasted mushroom soup and a whole lemon sole, our meal was accompanied by some

truly splendid sparkling wines from celebrated winemaker Dermot Sugrue’s Sugrue South Downs winery. Although not particularly well represented in the U.S., English sparkling wines at their finest can compete with the very best from Champagne, and these, especially the rosé, were quite exceptional. Anyone who still harbors the outmoded and ill-informed belief that there is no good food to be found in the United Kingdom should pay a visit to one of the PIGs post-haste to recalibrate their taste buds. This was dining and drinking on a whole other level.

Oozing period charm, the PIG hotels preserve much of the layout of the original country homes they once were, even incorporating antique plumbing fixtures. Furnishings and décor are reminiscent of a bygone era. Walking through the front door is a bit akin to stepping back in time to an age and way of life that few of us could ever hope to experience, let alone afford. One of my favorite

A conservatory-turned-dining room
Traditional English spongey cake is on the PIG menu.
Guest rooms have all the modern amenities, but feel timeless.

spaces at the THE PIG on the Beach was a small cozy room designated by a sign on the door as the Residents’ Snug, where I spent a happy hour or two perusing manor house listings in Country Life magazine.

Spoilt for choice at breakfast, I nevertheless made sure to enjoy a bowl of the house-made granola every morning. The recipe is in the PIG’s own cookbook: THE PIG - 500 MILES of FOOD, FRIENDS and LOCAL LEGENDS, as are numerous dishes that may require extensive research and foraging for ingredients, but remain adaptable to more readily available produce. Following a walk through the kitchen garden with the head chef and kitchen gardener, we headed into the picturesque city of Bath for a guided tour of some of the stunning Regency-era houses that were used in the shooting of Bridgerton. Chosen by Netflix for its magnificently pristine architecture and period feel, Bath provided the location for over 70 scenes in the series. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage

Site, Bath’s oldest structures include the recently reopened Roman baths that date back to 43 AD. The city is also the birthplace of Jane Austen, one of Britain’s most celebrated authors and of whose works so many TV and film adaptations have been shot locally.

With a hectic schedule that had us occupied from early morning to nearly midnight each day, our guide made sure we experienced the very best the region has to offer. On day three, after a light breakfast, we visited Westcombe Dairy, where I was fortunate to sample rich and nutty cheddars straight from the caves, happy cows grazing just a stone’s throw away in Somerset’s lush pastures. Then it was on to Lyme Regis, a cozy town situated on the Jurassic Coast. Dubbed the “Pearl of Dorset,” fossils abound, as do film crews. I pictured Meryl Streep staring out to sea at the end of the 13th century stone pier and all kinds of snippets from the various Jane Austen movies that have been shot there, including Persuasion, Emma and Mansfield Park

The Scallop Shell restaurant, in Bath, offers fresh local seafood. Jane Austen’s House is located in the Village of Chawton near Alton in Hampshire. 101
The Royal Crescent, in Bath, is a series of 30 terraced houses from the late 1700s that overlook Royal Victoria Park. The Bombay Sapphire Distillery Glasshouses, designed by Thomas Heatherwick, where samples of the botanicals used in the gin are grown.
The stunning ruins in Bath 103
The exterior of the THE PIG on the Beach, near Dorset The welcoming entry of the original PIG hotel in New Forest, Hampshire
A cozy sitting room in the New Forest PIG

The next couple of days were spent at The PIG on the Beach at Studland in Dorset. Here we tasted a wide range of wonderful English wines under the expert tutelage of one of the PIG’s sommeliers, then the following morning headed to Swanage to visit locations seen in Christopher Nolan’s Dunkirk. With free time along the way, I treated myself to the freshest fish and chips imaginable, as well as more than a couple of pints of cloudy Taunton cider, a million miles away from the sweetened swill one finds on liquor store shelves back home.

And so on to Winchester, whose magnificent Norman-Gothic cathedral dominates the town center. Winchester Cathedral is the burial place of Jane Austen. Here, fans of the writer leave notes and floral tributes to this day. More recently, the church has served as St. Paul’s Cathedral in The Crown for the wedding of Charles and Diana, and as Westminster Abbey for the funeral of Lord Mountbatten. At 558 feet, it is the longest medieval church in the world. Following a visit to Jane Austen’s House (now a museum), we enjoyed a quick lunch before continuing on to Brockenhurst at the very heart of Hampshire and to the original PIG in New Forest for our final two nights. Having checked in and freshened up a bit, it was back to the Sprinter to meander through the forest, stopping for the occasional wild horse to cross, and onto Lyndhurst in Hampshire, where we dined at the magnificent Hartnett & Holder restaurant in the equally splendid Lime Wood Hotel. Seated at the sought-after Chef’s Table in the kitchen, we were treated to a six-course menu featuring the very freshest and finest produce that Britain has to offer. Legends in European culinary circles, the chefs, Angela Hartnett (formerly of Aubergine and Petrus) and Luke

Holder have elevated fine dining to a near-stratospheric level. With a wine cellar to rival any I have encountered, this was a gastronomic experience not to be missed.

After a tour of this PIG’s kitchen garden the following morning, we spent a blustery and rainy hour attempting to find something edible along the shoreline with a local forager. While I appreciated the hands-on introduction to English locavorism, I would have much preferred to be comfortably nestled in front of a roaring log fire with something suitably restorative in my hand. As it happened, that was what we were about to do next as we clambered damply back into the van for the hour or so drive to the Bombay Sapphire distillery in Whitchurch. This imposing eco-friendly and sustainable facility occupies a former paper mill, producing 40 million of the famous blue bottles each year. The gin culture in Britain has experienced nothing short of an explosion in popularity over the past decade or so, with well over 200 distilleries producing this versatile and fascinating spirit throughout the islands. Here, at the epicenter of British gin, we were met by the brand ambassador and treated to a tour of this legendary producer of my go-to summer refreshment, followed by a tutored cocktail presentation, a suitably high note on which to draw our all-too-brief visit to a close.

Much as we might all love London and the extraordinary wealth of culture, arts and dining it has to offer, I cannot recommend strongly enough getting off the beaten path on your next trip to Blighty, and visiting one or more of the PIG’s eight locations (with more on the way.) To me, this felt like a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but one that I hope to repeat in the near future. sl For more information, visit 105
Picnic tables and gorgeous views at the THE PIG on the Beach
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3-5 Miami Grand Prix, Miami Gardens, Florida,

4 Kentucky Derby, Louisville,

10-18 Dana Mecum’s 37th Original Spring Classic, Indianapolis,

14-25 The 77th Cannes Film Festival, Cannes,

18-19 Broad Ripple Art Fair, Indianapolis,

26 The Indianapolis 500, Indianapolis,


1 UEFA Champions League Final, London,

6-9 French Open Finals, Paris,

13-16 Ar t Basel, Basel, Switzerland,

13-16 US Open, Pinehurst, North Carolina,

14 Zoobilation, Indianapolis,

21- 23 Midsummer Festival, Sweden,

Compiled by Kerstie Shaw

Presented by


The Grit & Grace Gala took place on March 1 at the Lucas Oil Estate. This is the second year for the event, which benefits Grit & Grace Nation, a non-profit organization providing a leadership program for middle school, high school, and young adult girls. The organization equips girls with essential tools needed to excel in life and leadership, through an online leadership academy, in-person chapters, and scholarship opportunities. Entrepreneur and supermodel Kathy Ireland was the Grit & Grace Living Legend Award recipient.

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1) Mike Pence, Karen Pence, Melissa Asbury, Ben Asbury 2) Andrea Kleymeyer, Laura Fleisher, Nicole Pence Becker 3) Brandon Bernstein, Tracey Bernstein 4) Fanchon Stinger, Kathy Ireland 5) Heather Crossin, Kathleen Smith, Liza Najem 6) Kristianna Iliff, Susan Henthorn, Liz Utter 7) Lisa Willis, Kristen Willis 8) Paulo Crimber, John Crimber 9) Richard White, Levi Riggs 10) Candis Gleason, Katie Lucas
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2284 West 86th Street | Indianapolis



Nearly 300 guests gathered on March 3 at the Dallara IndyCar Factory for the INSPIRE Benefit, which is built on the legacy of “Chocolate Sunday,” an event held annually for the past 33 years, that supports the Alzheimer’s Greater Indiana Chapter. A custom piece by artist Walter Knabe, created specifically for the event, was auctioned off; the evening raised more than $600,000 to benefit Alzheimer’s Indiana.

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1) Nicole Grove, Jen Cohen, Mandy Moore 2) Randy Fisher, Marty Posch, Joe Boivin 3) Jenny Huber, Butch Huber 4) Johnna Roessner, Jeremy Holmes 5) Jen McGowan, Jill Huse, Jill Gardner, Christina Kite, Erica Mobasser 6) Tom Smith, Amy Smith, Bill Himebrook, Lisa Bierman 7) Tony Knoble, Jamie Knoble, Josh Plank, Erin Plank, Malissa Fitzgerald, Scott Fitzgerald 8) Julie Manning Magid, Anne Murray 9) Andrea Heslin-Smiley 10) Sally Palmer, Maria Kleiman 11) Walter Knabe, Peter Dunn
Photographed Nathaniel Edmunds Photography


The first Shapiro’s Trinity Haven Benefit Dinner took place at Oakley’s Bistro on March 20. Sponsored by Sally and Brian Shapiro, with location and staffing donated by Steve Oakley, the evening featured award-winning guest chefs James Bloomfield and Becca Snook, and entertainment provided by vocalist Kevin Thompson. More than $11,000 was raised to support Trinity Haven, a nonprofit organization that provides housing options and supportive services for LGBTQ+ young adults in Indiana.

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1) Sally Shapiro, James Bloomfield, Brian Shapiro, Steve Oakley, Jenni White, Becca Snook 2) Bill Simmons, June Lyle, William Powell, Constance Macy, Rob Koharchik 3) Duane Cretin, Cindi Cretin 4) Morgan Younger, Dana Black 5) Patsy Solinger, Janie Maurer, Mickey Maurer, Susan Mitchell 6) Reva Weiss, Zoe Weiss, Leigh Louderback, Sherry Ochs 7) Brenda Adams, Kelly Glover, Peg McRoy, Jen Money-Brady, John Brady, Dan Brady 8) Pat Treadwell, Teresa Craig, Eric Gillispie, Tom Craig 9) Tony Papalia, Kim Ledger, Jennifer Winnie
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A rarefied lakefront retreat, Lakeview Manor at Promontory invites the discerned buyer to enjoy the best of waterfront living and embrace unforgettable all-season adventures. Set atop the highest point in Boone County within Promontory, Zionsville’s premier private community and Intentionally crafted by the renowned Gary Nance (of Gary Nance Design) to be an entertainer's dream come true, interiors encompass three kitchens, two theaters, a commercial-grade wet bar, generous ensuite bedrooms, a billiard/gaming area and a bowling alley.

A rarefied lakefront retreat, Lakeview Manor at Promontory invites the discerned buyer to enjoy the best of waterfront living and embrace unforgettable all-season adventures. Set atop the highest point in Boone County within Promontory, Zionsville’s premier private community and Intentionally crafted by the renowned Gary Nance (of Gary Nance Design) to be an entertainer's dream come true, interiors encompass three kitchens, two theaters, a commercial-grade wet bar, generous ensuite bedrooms, a billiard/gaming area and a bowling alley.

At once magical and modern, this epic retreat invites residents to gather, connect and enjoy the area’s enchanting natural surroundings while partaking in an abundance of activities on land and water. Revel in pristine rural beauty and quintessential lakefront living at 9825 Windy Hills Drive.

At once magical and modern, this epic retreat invites residents to gather, connect and enjoy the area’s enchanting natural surroundings while partaking in an abundance of activities on land and water. Revel in pristine rural beauty and quintessential lakefront living at 9825 Windy Hills Drive.

25,133 SQ. FT.
| 10
| 5
| 4.55
25,133 SQ. FT.
| 4.55


The residence of Kelly and Steve Bodner was the location of a fundraiser benefiting the Claims Conference awardwinning short film, The Ice Cream Man. The film, which was shot in Indiana, tells the story of an innocent businessman who became the first person executed by the Nazis in the Netherlands during World War II; it will be shown in classrooms and museums worldwide free of charge. Director Robert Moniot, actors Gretchen Hall and Freddy Arsenault, and Samantha Livoli from the Anne Frank Center were in attendance. Proceeds from the event support the development of a curriculum created by the Anne Frank Center and Film Independent to accompany the movie. The event was co-hosted by Kelly Bodner and Pacers physician John Abrams.

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1) Doug Rose, Michelle Rose, Sara Rose-Perkins, Joel Perkins 2) Freddy Arsenault, Rob Moniot, Gretchen Hall 3) Betsy Laskey, Kelly Bodner 4) Karen Rothbaum, Michael Rothbaum 5) Ilene Smith, Melissa Cohen, Karl Smith 6) Jenna Cook, Kim Cook, Anna Spitznogle 7) John Abrams, Diane Abrams, Rob Moniot, Kelly Bodner, Steve Bodner 8) Don Katz, Lynda Goeke 9) Lori Shanahan, Patty Goodman
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INDYCAR: AN EVENING WITH DAVID MALUKAS IndyCar hosted An Evening with David Malukas on March 8 at the Indianapolis Arts Center. More than 75 people attended this talk with the Arrow McLaren IndyCar driver. Proceeds from the night benefited the nonprofit Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum.
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1) Kristi Lee, Andy Gilbert 2) Doug Elmore, April Elmore 3) Shauna Oakwood, Cody Oakwood 4) Joe Hale, David Malukas, Peggy Swalls 5) Kara Cravens, Russ Cravens 6) Daniela Murillo, Luke Edwards



1) Amy Pauszek, Amy Wright 2) Catherine Michael, Jennifer Larsen 3) Julie Mahomed, Michael Kosene, Jonathan Berger 4) Rick Griskie, Alyona Yakovleva, Marisol Buchanan, Chad Buchanan 5) Lora Syrkin-Gleyzerman, Teri Uhrig, Julia Sirkan, Jennifer Larsen 6) Fernando Serpa, Rick Buckner, Kim Gutfreund 7) Frank Basile, Cathy Clark, Scott Skillman, Kim Cook 8) Elaine Mordoh, Mark Ladendorf, Deborah Dorman 9) Tasheana Hanna, Blake William Richardson, Kimann Schultz 10) Newell Pugh, Lynda Goeke, Marilyn Goeke
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A celebration of Amy Pauszek, the newest Society Editor of Sophisticated Living Indianapolis, was held March 14 at the home of Amy and Ryan Wright. The evening honored Amy, a longtime fixture of the Indianapolis arts and social scene.
the From the culinary minds of The Northside Social & Delicia Family of Restaurants comes THE SOCIAL EXPERIMENT....a series of curated food & beverage experiences. These events are pre-sold, ticketed dinners that feature a 4 course food & beverage pairing. Each month we feature a unique, themed pairing experience, available on select dates only. allday experiment Visit for more information on future experiences

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Dr. Emily Hrisomalos is a double board-certified facial plastic surgeon who specializes in reconstructive and cosmetic procedures for the face and neck. Dr. Hrisomalos believes that aesthetic care should leave patients feeling beautifully refreshed and rejuvenated, and she combines her extensive clinical expertise with her refined artistic sensibilities to deliver elegant, natural-looking results.

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