FORK TO MOUTH Bocca puts a spin on classic Italian.
Written by Neil Charles / Photographed by Andrew Kung Located in the city’s fashionable Fall Creek Place neighborhood on the near north side, Bocca is the latest venture from Daniel Cage and Anna Pizzi Cage, son-in-law and daughter of celebrated restaurateur Gino Pizzi and owners of Ambrosia in Broad Ripple and The Commodore (a speakeasy) in Fountain Square. Although relatively new to the restaurant business, Cage has clearly benefited from some expert tutelage over the past couple of years, and with Bocca he has truly made his mark, taking a bold but not overly drastic step away from the tried and tested menus that have defined Ambrosia over the past 40-odd years. Serving up what the owner describes as “modern Italian cuisine,” Bocca retools classic Italian cooking for a new breed of diners, updating established classics with contemporary flair and creativity. “A lot of people asked me if this was going to be another Ambrosia,” says Cage. “But Ambrosia was something my father-in-law started 40-some years ago. It’s traditional and the kind of food he grew up with. I wanted to use his style of service and cuisine as a foundation, but do something with a slightly more modern twist.” Occupying the building that was formerly home to the lively neighborhood restaurant, Shoefly Public House, the newly designed space has been transformed into a sleek, stylish metropolitan eatery. This may not be a Gino Pizzi restaurant, but his influence is writ large on every surface. Black, gray and various shades thereof dominate the palette, and strategically placed pools of light illuminate the essentials. The crepuscular lighting design creates an intimate environment, while exposed surfaces provide a pleasantly clattery backdrop to conversations and protect against casual eavesdropping. As a former professional basketball coach, Cage understands the importance of building the best team possible. Says Anna, “During one of the most challenging times in the hospitality industry, Dan managed to recruit and assemble an all-star team to build and run our first restaurant together. I’m so proud of his grit, and really happy he didn’t listen to me when I suggested he take some time to relax coming out of the last two years of lockdown!”
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