Non-profit organization and fashion career incubator, Fashion Group International, has released its semiannual FGI COMMUNIQUÉ report following the end of the New York Fashion Week FGI taps key industry experts to chronicle the latest trends from New York’s Fall / Winter 2023 runway shows
Sponsored by Hilldun Corporation, the FGI COMMUNIQUÉ serves as an extension of FGI’s legacy to serve as a resource for the fashion industry and related sectors
“With excitement and creativity in the air, Fashion Group International is delighted to present our semi-annual FGI Communiqué Report, detailing key New York fashion week highlights of the fall 2023 collections,” says Maryanne
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Grisz, FGI President and CEO
The FGI COMMUNIQUÉ is required reading for anyone seeking expert insight into next season ’ s offerings –from recurring influences and themes spotted on big-name runways to up-andcoming designers poised to make their mark on the industry”
F A S H I O N G R O U P I N T E R N A T I O N A L N A M E S T O P 1 0 T R E N D S F R O M N E W Y O R K ’ S F A L L / W I N T E R 2 0 2 3 R U N W A Y S
Dopamine dressing clothes that make you feel good kicked off NYFW with joyful looks that combine handwork with brilliant color Jahnkoy emphasized craftsmanship and cultural heritage for textural pieces with asporty, streetwear edge
Emerging designer Bulan layered up super-dimensional knits that managed to be both avantgarde and wearable at once All Beneath Heaven’s gender-neutral separates were enlivened with crafty embroideries and hand-painted prints that express designer Jimmy Alexander’s interest in the metaphysical for a collection that brimmed with joy-inducing imagery
2 . L E S S I S M O R E
Just looking at these minimalist shapes in serene neutrals brings on a sense of order and calm, a welcome relief from all the free-wheeling self-expression and super-dimensional crafts on runways these days Michael Kors delved into the feminist icons of the 70s for his Michael Kors Collection, but here the era ’ s bellbottoms and miniskirts were pared down and purified to their very essence
Korean designer Son Jung Wan referenced the 90s along with futuristic shapes to come up with a funnel-neck cape-sleeved crop-top ensemble Brandon Maxwell refined his peplum looks from earlier collections, as in a shapely strapless top over camel pants Tory Burch continued her journey into the roots of American sportswear this season; her hourglass top over tweedy trousers was the perfect melding of midcentury allure with modern practicality
H A P P Y C R A F T Y 1 .
3 . F O L K L O R I C T R I P
Folkloric costumes offer endless inspiration as designers celebrate (rather than appropriate) worldwide culture Burkindy and Marusya Tamboura of Jahnkoy believe that “craft is an ultimate tool towards the healing of mankind”; that idea is captured in desirable pieces that draw from vintage and cultural heritage The 19th Century Viennese court inspired Carolina Herrera’s Wes Gordon's richly embroidered border
Terry Singh used an Italian red-and-black jacquard for a precisely cut cropped jacket Monica Paolini and Sean Monahanof Sea explored Bavarian themes and Americana for boldly patterned statement pieces Ulla Johnson, who has long incorporated global handicrafts into her aesthetic, showed a wonderfully dimensional crochet sweater over a trapunto-appliquéd skirt
Less is more
Elevated cargo looks are having a moment Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada used a blurred plaid for slouchy cargos that got even more dimension from a box-pleated peplum detail Rag & Bone polished the look by topping cargos with a tailored blazer
Cross-Eyed Moose offered outdoorsy ensembles that stayed true to cargo ’ s utilitarian roots, while Preston Heron used a multi-pocket approach for a distressed leather set Marc Jacobs paid homage to the recently departed Vivienne Westwood with romantic Old Mastersinspired silhouettes, here made modern in a crystal-studded olive drab detailed with oversized cargo pockets
5 . B E L L E B O U D O I R
Lingerie looks come out from under with opulent fabric and plenty of lace Phillip Lim showed Chantilly-trimmed pajama pants topped with a draped tunic Dion Lee showed off his knack for revealing and concealing with a paneled shocking pink slip-dress, detailed with a triangular cutout
Rodarte showed a sweep of emerald green for a lace-inset maxi dress, and Anna Sui used a pale matcha tone for a lustrous cami and slip set Piotrek Panszczyk of Area was inspired by the beauty of fruits, as in a melon-pink underwire bra matched to a curvilinear miniskirt, both studded with faceted crystals
4 . L E T ' S G O C A R G O
6 . S I L V E R L I N I N G
LSilvery finishes reign as the metal of choice LaQuan Smith, maintaining his commitment to high glamour, cut a crinkled metallic leather into a bra-plus-column-skirt ensemble Anna Sui used a slightly greenish silver for her 60s-inspired mini-trench, worn over sparkly tights and silver cowboy boots
Bibhu Mohapatra’s sterling tweed pantsuit was shown with a pearly organza bow blouse, perfect for special occasion dressing Classic shearling outerwear at Coach got a fresh edge when awash in silver A standout of the season so far was Proenza Schouler’scrinkled silverplated sheath that was styled over a raw-edged underskirt, creating a look that managed to be opulent and subtle at once
Belle Boudoir
The newest denim looks have a quirky, individualistic charm from artisanal treatments and appealing new shapes Derek Lam used the American Art and Crafts movement as a starting point for his Derek Lam 10 Crosby line, resulting in denim pieces that were both practical and slightly novel, such as a shearling-trimmed vest over cropped jeans
Marc Jacobs used a luxe mix of denim and velvet for a patchwork coat, and Sally Lapointe showed the must-have wide-leg silhouette ornamented with shredded rips and topped with a fur-trimmed maxicoat Heron Preston was inspired by the cool kids on the streets of New York for his bleached denim corset top over mended 5-pocket jeans Rag & Bone founder Marcus Wainwright was also inspired by real New Yorkers for his chore jacket and pencil skirt ensemble; the shapes are simple, but the mottled bleach treatment makes it special
Like jeans and trench coats, motorcycle jackets can be infinitely reinvented while retaining their iconic quality For next fall, Jonathan Simkhai played with both deconstruction and toughness, resulting in a biker jacket split into two to become a cropped jacket and matching miniskirt
Rag & Bone went lean and mean, while Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler added contrast and luxury to their version with a flurry of snow-white fur trim Omar Salam of Sukeina offered an elegantly tailored pantsuit embellished with gold zips for a look that was more boardroom than biker
7 . D E N I M B O U T I Q U E
8 . M O T O M O M E N T
9 . T O T H E M A X
The maxi-coat, that 1970s favorite, is back with a vengeance for next fall Michael Kors showed a covetable camel version, matched to a slim poor-boy sweater, hot pants, and kneehigh boots Christian Cowan’s muse this season was Judy Garland; he did the maxi-over-mini proportion as well, but his coat and short-shorts were jazzed-up with jet beads and layered over a wide-collared white maxi shirt
Joseph Altuzarra went long-over-long with a spectacularly dyed topper over a matching ankle-skimming silk column Proenza Schouler’s double-breasted version was cut from nubby wool in a toasty brown and ensembled with a matching sweater and chocolate leather pants Young-Eun Lee of FromWhere did a soft ivory coat worn over a sweet pajama pant-andbralette set (bras are an ongoing must-have) And Catherine Holstein of Khaite offered a luxe sweep of fur in an intense shade of bottle green
Moto Moment
9 . L E A T H E R L O V E
Leather loses its rugged outerwear demeanor and becomes sensuous and supple for next fall Brandon Maxwell tailored burnished skins into a plunge-neck maxi dress, while Proenza
Schouler gathered scarlet leather into an easy strapless number Hanako Maeda of Adeam went for a soft-punk look with a harnessed camel leather frock over a matching bandeau and flare-leg “chaps”
Coach’s Stuart Vevers was true to the house’s leather-craft history with body-skimming separates in a 70s-inflected patchwork Bibhu Mohapatra used vegan leather for a midi-skirt emblazoned with crystal-studded embroidery, and Ulla Johnson enlivened an oversized leather shirt jacket with big hand-painted flowers
Gary Wassner’s “Ones to Watch” feature – highlighting ascendent fashion designers and brands – includes RENTRAYAGE, Bach Mai, Custo Barcelona, Puppets and Puppets, DUR DOUX, and Victor De Souza
“It is critical to the continued development of American designers to support and acknowledge their creativity and innovation, ” says Gary Wassner, Hilldun CEO “Every season I am awed by the emergence of such incredible new talent during NYFW”
To the Max
A B O U T F A S H I O N G R O U P I N T E R N A T I O N A L
Founded in 1928 by seventeen women leaders, with original charters including Helena Rubenstein, Eleanor Roosevelt, Edith Head, and other renowned fashion icons, Fashion Group International (FGI) was established as an industry forum for career advancement Today, the non-profit organization remains dedicated to connecting and supporting fashion professionals at every level, from startups to seasoned professionals By providing access, education, and connection, FGI seeks to spark creativity, fuel innovation, and advance the fashion business
FGI maintains a headquarters in New York City, chapters in numerous regions worldwide, and a roster of over 5,000 active members in fashion and related design sectors, including apparel, accessories, beauty, retail, and lifestyle Vital member benefits offered to FGI members include ongoing professional development opportunities, forums for discussion and networking, market insights, mentorship opportunities with industry leaders, business directories and resources, and high-profile event platforms for professional recognition
The Fashion Group Foundation is the philanthropic arm of Fashion Group International and is dedicated to nurturing the fashion talent of tomorrow through education, scholarships, internships, and career counseling services The FGI Foundation also promotes charitable partnerships and impactful public service initiatives
For more information, visit fgiorg
Leather Love
