Main Graduate Sketchbook

Graduate Project: Ethereal Beauty Womanswear Collection Spring/ Summer 2020 Sophia Essmeier 4th Yr Fashion, Knitwear & Textiles 18/05/2020

Design Process

Shape at start taken from standwork Bodice created from cast on cast off technique - Small panels knitted then linked together For Daisy layring unsure how to create but thinking ruf�les made from both knit & Material

For clusters part maybe use a smocking or shirring technique to create texture

Panels of lace knit inbetween ruf�les

Volumonous ruf�le shoulders inspired by daisies For skirt use a light �lowey material -Printed Textile with surface embellisment

I love how pretty the shirring technique is, it gives great texture & ruf�le effect

Used for bodice & Shirt panels

Beginning of Line Up

New & Of�icial Line Up

Look 1 Inspiration

Adding Ruf�les to Look one

Unsure what to do at the back, may look weird around the bum

Need to play around on placement of ruf�les and add more to bottom Ruf�les made using longest stitch on machine - straight seam no backstitch so you can make ruf�le more ruf�ly

Want to add beading throughout skirt probably in linear sections.

Ruf�le Swatch

Look 1 Top Production

Changes to the origional

-Changed racer neckline to asymmetric top

-Added an Organza Sleeve with the same print as underskirt.

Top just needing to be darned and for strap to be attatched Knitted up & Linked the top with picot edging

Production of Look 1

Make 5 row picot edge rib (on tension 4)

Bead row after picot rib, pulling stitch half way back enough to bit beads properly.

-Picot Rib (5 rows) -Row of beading -Hand knit 1 row then cast off proper needles -Knit 100 rows of tuck lace -Every 100 rows (for 400 rows) picot edge & bead a row then knit another 100 rows Tension 2 for lace tuck technique

Skirt Adaptation from origional:

-No longer putting frills on because it’s taking from the delicate picot edge & beading

-Underskirt will be double layred powernet that will attatch to waitband of knit skirt -Adding Plain Knit panels on sides of dress

Look 1 Side Panel Production Calculations of side panel using lenght of lace knit panels.

Swatch of side panel using measurments of mannequin

Seperate waistband to be linked on & end of panel a picot edge to match edge of bottom of lace knit panels

Linking on side panels with picot ribing sandwiching two panels together

One side panel attatched trying

I let the fully linked skirt hang for 5 days so it had fully droppped.

I then took the measurments from it to make the underskirt

Laying them down �lat to make sure the beading lines up front & back

I hand sewed the underskirt to the botton of the wasit band For underskirt I double lined the powernet and sewed both together using a zig-zag stitch

Look 1

Look 1 asymmetric top & tuck lace knit skirt with swarovski crystal beading & Powernet digitally printed underskirt

Strap is Swarovski beaded panel with both edges picot ribbed.

Size 12 but mannequin is size 10 so slightly too big

Side panel is plain knit with picot binding the tuck lace to knit side panels

Picot edge waist band with elastic fed through.