VOLUME | 23
ISSUE THEME: BEAUTY Ponder for a moment why beauty is so important to us. The ephemeral and subjective concept of beauty awakens a vast range of emotions, and SOFFA 23 is certain to awaken something beautiful in you!
SOFFA ISSUE 23 IS DEDICATED TO
BEAUTY Since everyone perceives beauty differently, we have blended a colourful cocktail of stories with something for everyone. Whether you believe that beauty lies in simplicity, or that it equals pain, we think you will find something in this issue that rings true to you. We begin with the history of the beauty ideal, accompanied by Barbora Idesová’s original illustrations, and follow with a spectacular interplay between photography and painting in an essay by the photographer Alžběta Jungrová, the painter Martin Krajc and the make-up artist Margita Skřenková. We also show that beauty ‘blemishes’ have their analogies in nature, where they are seen as anything but imperfect. When thinking about a city with incredible architecture and an unsurpassed atmosphere Vienna tops our charts, and we are confident that our travel story will help you fall in love with the beautiful city. Our modern fashion story by Michaela Karásek Čejková is inspired by the old Greek myth of the beautiful Narcissus, who fell in love with his own reflection. And to prove that beauty often hides in the unexpected, look to our stunning macro images of glass shards. The issue also touches on deeper themes of beauty and society’s perceptions of trans and genderqueer persons. Lastly, we introduce Olga Stráníková and her tender photographs. While perusing this issue we are sure you will exclaim at least a few times: ‘Now that is beautiful!’
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Welcome | With All Our Hearts Illustration | Beauty Through Time Travel | Hallo Wien SOFFA Tips | Guided 17/18 Art | Perceiving Beauty Editor’s Choice | Beauty Tips Creative People | Of Light and Shadow Food | The Art of Tea Beauty | Telltale Signs Fashion | Trans Norm Photo Essay | Naked Glass Scent | Talisman Photo Essay | Trinity Editor’s Choice | Closer to Nature Interior | Quiet Opulence Utterly Czech | Stag Power Creative People | Street Queens Do It Yourself | Impressions Decor | Basic Beauty Analogy | (im)Perfect Fashion | Narcissus
WITH ALL OUR HEARTS I am proud of my work and my team. It is not often you get to work with people who share your values and who love their work to boot. When in the spirit of this issue I thought about what makes my life beautiful, I came up with this: I am surrounded by people who live and work with all their hearts and I get to create beautiful and hopefully even valuable things. To me there is nothing better than this! And so it was easy for me and the team to say ‘yes’ when we were approached by the organisation Loono to become ambassadors of their campaign #zijessrdcem [Your Heart For Life], which is teaching people across Czechia how to look after their hearts and prevent cardiovascular disease. We are keenly aware that our modern lifestyle is not very kind to our hearts. The daily pressure and stress of deadlines, too little physical exercise, too many hours in front of the computer, too much rushing about. Most of us don’t stop to think whether we are doing enough to keep our hearts strong and healthy. The #zijessrdcem campaign is helping us to do just that, and I hope it will help to inspire you as well! Allow yourself to rest for a moment and savour our new issue, full of sustenance for the heart and soul: beautiful people, beautiful places, beautiful interiors, beautiful stories and all of it printed on beautiful paper!
Adéla Kudrnová | editor in chief
PS: On the next page read about how some of our editorial team live with all their hearts. To learn more about the #zijessrdcem campaign, visit www.loono.cz.
HEART ‘HEART IS LOVE, PASSION AND EMOTION, THE PULSATING ENERGY FOR EVERYTHING I LOVE.’ Tereza, editor | ‘HEART FOR ME IS LIFE ITSELF, BECAUSE A BODY WITHOUT A HEART IS LIKE A CAR WITHOUT A MOTOR.’ Max, production manager | ‘I LIVE WITH ALL MY HEART BECAUSE I CAN’T LIVE ANY OTHER WAY, LITERALLY AND FIGURATIVELY.’ Hanka, editor | ‘TO ME THE HEART IS AN INDICATOR OF WHETHER THINGS ARE AS THEY SHOULD BE – A KIND OF A PERSONAL CENTRE OF INTUITION.’ Lenka, art director | ‘FOR US LIVING WITH ALL OUR HEARTS IS TAKING THE PATH LESS TRAVELLED AND EMBRASING THE EXPERIENCE.’ Ingrid and Peter, English translation and editing
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PERCEIVING BEAUTY AS BEAUTY IS SUBJECTIVE, ARTISTS PERCEIVE BEAUTY IN THE WORLD IN DIFFERENT WAYS. PAUSE FOR A MOMENT, FIND YOUR COLOURING PENCILS, AND JOIN US AND ARTHOUSE HEJTMรNEK IN EXPLORING THIS NOTION. partner for the article: Arthouse Hejtmรกnek gallery and auction house | text: Patrik Floriรกn photo: Arthouse Hejtmรกnek archive
BEFORE YOU TURN THE PAGE, SKETCH AN ENCHANTING WOODLAND ENVELOPED IN THE SCENT OF RAIN, WHERE YELLOW AND BROWN BIRCH LEAVES RUSTLE OVER GREEN MOSS. NOW LOOK AT HOW THE PAINTERS ANTONÍN SLAVÍČEK AND PETR PASTRŇÁK HAVE IMAGINED THE SCENE. WHICH OF THE PAINTINGS IS MORE BEAUTIFUL TO YOU? OR PERHAPS YOU ARE MORE INTERESTED IN HUTTERITE CERAMICS OR EMPIRE STYLE FURNITURE? VISIT A PLACE WHERE BEAUTY IS DEFINED IN THOUSANDS OF WAYS, WHERE ANTIQUES REGAIN THEIR LUSTRE, AND WHERE WORKS OF ART FIND THEIR NEW OWNERS. WELCOME TO THE ARTHOUSE HEJTMÁNEK GALLERY AND AUCTION HOUSE, A GLORIOUS PLACE WITH A CONGENIAL ATMOSPHERE LOCATED IN THE HEART OF PRAGUE.
Marie and Tomáš Hejtmánek breathed new life into an expansive seventeenth century villa in Prague’s Bubeneč area when they created their house of art, design, antiques and other beautiful objects. The couple’s passion for collecting art and antiques with uncommon stories has grown into a vocation. In their gallery above Prague’s Stromovka Park they welcome anyone who is interested in purchasing an object for their enjoyment, learning something new, adding more to their collection or simply meeting other collectors. In addition to art exhibitions, Arthouse Hejtmánek organises regular evening and garden auctions. The record purchase at the auction house was Oskar Kokoschka’s unusual painting of a panoramic view from Hradčany to Střelecký Island, captured from the Bellevue studio Kokoschka rented. The new owner paid over 52 million Czech crowns for the exquisite work of art. Presently Arthouse Hejtmánek is exhibiting the work of the sculptor Milan Beránek. For more information, calendar of events and an auction catalogue visit www.arthousehejtmanek.cz. ■
THIS SPREAD: Antonín Slavíček (1870 - 1910): Cesta ve Hvězdě [Path in the Hvězda Reserve], circa 1895, Prague; oil on canvas; winning bid at an evening auction in 2016: 7.8 million Kč (including auction house fee)
THIS SPREAD: Petr Pastrňák (*1962): Jarní les [Woodland in Spring], 2016, Czechia; acrylic on canvas; winning bid at the spring auction in 2017: 74,400 Kč (including auction house fee)
BEAUTY TIPS CHOOSING COSMETIC PRODUCTS TODAY CAN BE MIND-BOGGLING. WE HAVE SELECTED A FEW FAVOURITES FOR WHICH WE CAN PERSONALLY VOUCH! text and styling: Adéla Kudrnová
Volume Conditioner, E+46, www.eplus46.cz, 360 Kč | Olivia Nail Polish, Sienna Byron Bay, www.biosophy.cz, 480 Kč | Douglas Cover Concealer, www.douglas.cz, 419 Kč | Mint Mineral Eyeshadow, Annabelle Minerals, www.eshopannabelle.com, 180 Kč | Vanilla Orchid Hand Cream, Eos, www.douglas.cz, 129 Kč | Nightly Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate, www.kiehls.cz, 1,460 Kč | Rollerwheel Liquid Liner, www.maccosmetics.com, $21 | The Ultimate Cheek Contouring/Shading Brush, www.raemorris.com, $135
OF LIGHT AND SHADOW WITHOUT DIGITAL TECHNOLOGY OR RETOUCHING – OLGA STRÁNÍKOVÁ HAS EMBRACED EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY PHOTOGRAPHIC TECHNIQUES AND SHOOTS ONLY WHEN INSPIRATION STRIKES. text: Helena Novotná | photo: Olga Stráníková
WHEN LOOKING AT AN OLD PHOTOGRAPH WE SOMETIMES WONDER WHETHER IT IS INDEED A PHOTOGRAPH OR PERHAPS THE WORK OF A PAINTER’S BRUSH – OR SOMETHING IN BETWEEN. UNCONVENTIONAL PHOTOGRAPHIC TECHNIQUES HAVE THEIR FANS AMONG MODERN PHOTOGRAPHERS, INCLUDING THE CZECH PHOTOGRAPHER OLGA STRÁNÍKOVÁ. WE SPOKE TO OLGA ABOUT HER INSPIRATION, WHY SHE ONLY PHOTOGRAPHS WOMEN AND WHY SHE CANNOT PHOTOGRAPH ON COMMAND.
How do you prepare for a photograph? It’s an emotion that comes over me. I get excited, passionate, and I have to grab the camera and go. I have cycles where I photograph once every three months and nothing in between. I used to be sad during those breaks, because I feared I wouldn’t get inspired again, but then I’d notice a ray of sun or some other impulse, and the irresistible urge would return. Light is key for me, but I’m also inspired by music, film and poetry.
and discovered the bromoil print process. It is one of the oldest photographic techniques, part photography and part printmaking, and I find it absolutely fascinating. What technique do you prefer the most? At the moment I like working with a printing process called lith print, which uses a special developer that creates an image coloured in warm tones. The results depend very much on chance, on how old the developer is and even on the lunar cycle. One day I threw away about ten prints because none had come out well, and the next day, when the developer had aged, everything came out perfectly. Lith print is alchemy – I know that nothing will print the same the next time around, and that’s why the images are so very precious to me.
Why do you photograph women exclusively? Women are my muses. I’ve recently agreed to photograph a man, but even that will be with his partner. I would like to capture their emotions, perhaps through a caress or a glance. My models always represent destiny. They are not classic models, but strong women with stories. I don’t photograph men because I don’t understand them.
Are you not intrigued by modern technology? Not much. In photography I find the most important aspect is to work with my hands and to have contact with paper. It’s an obsession for me. Sometimes I spend several days in the darkroom – the impulse comes and I cannot stop. But when people have commissioned work from me, it has never turned out well … without the passion, I’m never satisfied. ■
What techniques do you use? I started with classic black and white photography on 35 mm film, but after five years I needed something more. I had always admired the early days of photography and work from the 1920s and 1930s, and so I started to study František Drtikol and Josef Sudek
WIN A COMPLETE RESTORATION OF YOUR PRIM WRISTWATCH! ARE YOU A PROUD OWNER OF AN ORIGINAL CZECH PRIM WRISTWATCH? IT WOULD BE A SHAME IF THE WATCH THAT CARRIES YOUR CHILDHOOD MEMORIES FOUND ITS WAY TO THE BACK OF A DRAWER. ELTON WATCHMAKERS, THE MANUFACTURER OF AUTHENTIC PRIM WATCHES, CAN BRING BACK NOT ONLY THE FUNCTIONALITY BUT ALSO THE ORIGINAL APPEARANCE OF YOUR PRIZED WRISTWATCH. THE RESTORATION PROCESS TYPICALLY TAKES BETWEEN THREE TO SIX MONTHS. Share the story of your PRIM wristwatch by writing to us at firstname.lastname@example.org (subject: #prim). The most interesting story will win a restoration package valued at 6–8,000 Kč. For complete contest rules go to www.soffamag.com. For more information, including examples of restored PRIM watches, visit www.prim.cz. Photo: PRIM SPORT II. Child’s watch kal. 68 before restoration.
ONE AND ONLY PRIM Only a few countries in the world can take pride in completely manufacturing mechanical wristwatches. Czechia is one of them thanks to Elton hodinářská [Elton Watchmakers], who have been making PRIM watches in the town of Nové Město nad Metují for more than sixty years. Not all PRIM watches sold today are Czech made, however. There are some imitation PRIMs out there, many of them made in Asia. How can you tell the real thing from a fake? Czech-made PRIMs come with documentation that shows Elton hodinářská, a.s., as the manufacturer, and they carry the genuine PRIM logo designed by the employee Josef Žid. And then there is the difference in quality – but that will only show in time! For more information about original Czech-made PRIM watches visit www.prim.cz.
THE ART OF TEA LET A KUSMI TEA RITUAL HELP YOU SLOW DOWN, AND LEARN HOW TO DRINK TEA WITH ELEGANCE AND PANACHE AT ANY OCCASION. partner for the article | Kusmi Tea/ Potten & Pannen | text: Tereza Škoulová | styling: Adéla Kudrnová photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková
IN THE SPIRIT OF SLOW LIVING WE HAVE ALLOWED OURSELVES A MOMENT OF QUIET. OVER A CUP OF TEA WE MET WITH JIŘÍ BOHÁČ, A TEA SPECIALIST AND AMBASSADOR FOR KUSMI TEA, TO TALK ABOUT HIS LOVE OF TEA, TEA BLENDS AND HARMONY. INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO MAKE AND SAVOUR A PERFECT CUP OF TEA? IN COLLABORATION WITH KUSMI TEA AND POTTEN & PANNEN WE HAVE PREPARED A SIMPLE GUIDE FOR A TEA RITUAL THAT WILL HELP YOU SLOW DOWN AND RELISH IN THE SCENT AND TASTE OF A PERFECTLY PREPARED CUP.
As early as the eight century, the Chinese tea master Lu Jü wrote The Classic of Tea, the first monograph on tea ever written. In it he described the origin, cultivation, preparation and drinking of tea. Although tea is one of the most widely consumed beverages today, many of us have become a bit sloppy about its preparation. This is what Jiří Boháč wants to change and to this end he has created the profession of the ‘tea-tender’, a tea specialist who is knowledgeable about tea and puts great care in how it is served. As Jiří explains, ‘the name encompasses humility for the craft’. Jiří fell in love with tea as a young man and his passion caught the attention of Kusmi tea, a Parisian brand he now represents. The Kusmi company was founded 150 years ago by the young Russian Pavel Michailovič Kusmičov, who was equally passionate about tea, and who had a talent for making wonderful blends. Kusmičov moved the company from his native St. Petersburg to Paris and expanded to other European cities. Today the company is owned by the brothers Sylvain and Cloud Orebi who have retained the brand’s distinctive face: the colourful tins and the original tea blends. In their tea boutique in Paris they keep an old enamelled pot in which Kusmičov blended the Anastasia blend and a card file with addresses of the company’s first customers. ‘Tea should awaken all the senses,’ explains Jiří. ‘An opening of the tin should be pleasing to the eye and the nose, and its scent must be in harmony with its taste. The lovely ting of a spoon against a cup pleases the ear and the warm cup is welcomed into cupped hands.’ The essence of a tea ritual is simple and can be interpreted in many ways. There are only four key elements: boil water – pour it over tea leaves – let the tea steep – drink it properly. The kind of tea set you choose and how you warm the teapot also matters, as do proportions, aesthetics and the pouring process itself. The key, however, is how you experience the moment, and it is best when you have it just the way you like. Visit www.kusmitea.cz for information on the whole range of Kusmi teas including steeping times and temperatures. ■
TASTING WITH FRIENDS
GATHER UP TEAS OF VARIED COLOURS AND FLAVOURS AND SHARE A TASTING TEA RITUAL WITH FRIENDS. AQUAROSA IS A FRUITY HIBISCUS TEA INSPIRED BY ABYSSINIAN ROSE TEA AND IT NEEDS TO STEEP LONGER THAN OTHER TEAS, ABOUT FIVE MINUTES. GUNPOWDER IS A GREEN TEA FROM THE ZHEJIANG PROVINCE IN CHINA. THE BLACK TEA BLEND SWEET LOVE CONTAINS GUARANA, A WELCOME ENERGY BOOST. THE ST. PETERSBURG GREEN TEA IS FULL FLAVOURED, COMPLETE WITH BERGAMOT AND VANILLA, AND MUST BE MADE AT A LOWER TEMPERATURE – AROUND 75°C.
Kusmi tea blends, tea measuring spoon and porcelain teacups, ForLife, all from www.kusmitea.cz | glass teapot, Villeroy & Boch, www.vasekuchyne.cz
INVITE YOUR MOTHER OR GRANDMOTHER FOR A VISIT. A MORNING TEA CALLS FOR RUSSIAN MORNING N°24, A BLEND OF CEYLON AND CHINESE BLACK TEAS WITH A SLIGHT CHOCOLATE AROMA. TO ENSURE THAT YOUR BUNDT CAKE TURNS OUT PERFECTLY, MAKE YOUR PREPARATION EASIER WITH TEA BAGS. IN THE AFTERNOON TRY THE LOOSE ANASTASIA TEA BLEND NAMED FOR THE DAUGHTER OF AN EMPEROR, FEATURING BLACK TEA WITH BERGAMOT, LEMON, LIME AND ORANGE FLOWER. BOTH TEAS SHOULD BE MADE AT 90°C AND STEEPED FOR THREE TO FOUR MINUTES.
Kusmi tea blends and tea bag holder, Forlife, all from www.kusmitea.cz | porcelain teapot, sugar bowl, plate, teacup and saucer, all from the Amazonia collection, Villeroy & Boch, www.vasekuchyne.cz
TAKE YOUR TEA WITH YOU IN A THERMOS OR A BOTTLE – HOT OR COLD! THE PRINCE VLADIMIR TEA, NAMED FOR VLADIMIR THE GREAT, THE CANONISED RULER OF KIEVAN RUS, HAS AN UNFORGETTABLE AROMA SCENTED WITH BERGAMOT, LEMON, GRAPEFRUIT AND VANILLA. IF YOU NEED TO FOCUS, TRY THE BB DETOX TEA, A BLEND OF GREEN TEA WITH MATÉ, ROOIBOS, GUARANA, DANDELION AND MINT THAT IS SURE TO RECHARGE YOUR BATTERIES. JUST AS WITH MANY OTHER TEAS BE SURE TO MAKE THESE AT 90°C AND STEEP THEM FOR THREE TO FOUR MINUTES.
Kusmi tea blends and Newleaf glass mug with infuser, Forlife, all from www.kusmitea.cz | Traveller bottle, Sigg, www.vasekuchyne.cz
So Clicquot, so responsible.
ROOM BY SOFFA
SOFFA LIVING AND DINING SPACE AT DESIGNBLOK 2017 PAIRING EXQUISITE FOOD WITH BEAUTIFUL DESIGN
CANAPÉ – a distinctive meeting space at this year’s Designblok in which SOFFA will highlight the work of renowned designers and brands in a purpose-built meeting space. Open to the general public, CANAPÉ will also be the venue for SOFFA cocktail parties and brunches for partners, bloggers and other influencers. Visitors to CANAPÉ will see products from brands including Bomma, Deelive, G. Benedikt, Křehký, Lavmi, Nespresso, Rückl, Ton, Vitra and others.
Leaf table and chair and Alba chair, both from Ton | Lifestyle porcelain tableware, G. Benedikt | František Vízner drinking glasses and Bubbles glass bowls, Bomma | Gradient carafe and Klára Špišková table runner, Deelive | coffee capsules, Nespresso
Prague International Design Festival 26–30 October 2017
TELLTALE SIGNS THE EYES MAY BE THE WINDOW TO THE SOUL, BUT THE FACE CAN ALSO TELL A THING OR TWO. WE APPROACHED THREE PEOPLE, THREE DIFFERENT FACES, AND TOGETHER WITH KIEHL’S WE SELECTED PRODUCTS THAT COMPLEMENT THEIR COMPLEXIONS. partner for the article: Kiehl’s | text: Patrik Florián | models: Tomáš Kaliarik, Mayya Shin, Martina Novotná photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková and Kiehl’s archive
WE TRY NOT TO JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO PEOPLE’S FACES, THIS CAN BE HARD. EVEN ARISTOTLE SAID THAT A PERSON’S APPEARANCE IS A MIRROR TO THE SOUL. THE ANCIENT GREEKS THOUGHT THAT CLEAR AND WIDE-OPEN EYES REFLECTED A BOLD PERSONALITY, A WIDE NOSE SIGNIFIED LAZINESS, FULL LIPS SUGGESTED A FOOL, WHILE NARROW LIPS ON MEN SIGNALLED PRIDE. EASTERN MEDICINE USES THE FACE TO DIAGNOSE OVERALL HEALTH, AND OUR EXPRESSIONS REVEAL A LOT ABOUT HOW WE FEEL. WHETHER YOU ARE HAPPY OR SAD, YOUR FACE WILL TELL ALL.
They say that children have the face given to them by nature, adults have the face that reflects their lifestyle, and the elderly have the face they deserve. Do you believe that nature has given you a long nose along with a sharp mind or a high forehead full of great ideas? The basis to such beliefs is rooted in the fact that our hormones and genes influence not only our behaviour, but also the growth of our organs, bones and facial features. A high dose of testosterone, for example, means a greater tendency towards assertiveness and a wider face. Our face also tells about our habits, lifestyle and character, especially as we grow older – it is not surprising that wrinkles can tell whether a person smiles or frowns a lot. Thin and chubby faces hint at the amount of fat hiding under the skin, and a golden glow complexion suggests that a person has plenty of carotenoids. Together with rosy cheeks, a sign of good blood circulation, golden complexion is why some people are perceived more attractive than others. Perhaps most interesting is the influence that other people have on the shape of our face. In SOFFA 19, which was dedicated to generations, we featured life partners who look as though they were siblings. When couples are courting they tend to mirror one another, and as they live together they experience similar moods and emotions, which in time leave common marks on their faces. Kiehl’s has been caring for people’s faces and bodies since 1851, when the precursor to the original Kiehl Pharmacy opened its doors in New York. Since then Kiehl’s has created magical products like the scented ‘Love Oil’ from the Russian Prince Karl and the toner with hand-inserted calendula petals. They have also sponsored an expedition to Mount Everest and helped many a charity project. Book yourself in for a consultation and let Kiehl’s advise you on the best products for your skin. In Prague Kiehl’s outlets are found at OC Nový Smíchov, OC Chodov and at the Palladium, and in Bratislava at the Eurovea shopping centre. For more information visit www.kiehls.cz. ■
GROOMED BEARD Tomáš Kaliarik | 28 | Slovakia
Facial Fuel Eye De-Puffer The lightweight eye stick with an instant cooling effect minimises puffiness and circles under the eyes.
Tomáš is a co-founder of Slippsy, a company that makes designer slippers and boxers. When not busy with work, he finds time to care for his complexion and his beard.
Facial Fuel Moisturiser The light moisturising treatment for men helps the skin resist the effects of environmental stress. Moisturised skin will feel refuelled and revitalised.
Nourishing Beard Grooming Oil The grooming oil combines softening and smoothing Amazonian pracaxi oil with aromatic essential oils to care for your beard and the skin underneath.
Mayya Shin | 27 | Russia
Mayya works in marketing at Socialbakers. Her morning and evening skin care rituals should be so effortless they become second nature.
Calendula Deep Cleansing Foaming Face Wash The soap and paraben-free cleansing gel with calendula will cleanse, refresh and revitalise normal and oily skin.
Ultra Facial Oil-Free Lotion The moisturising lotion is free of oils, parabens, fragrances and colourants. It contains desert plant extract, antarcticine and Vitamin E, which help to keep skin fresh and healthy.
Rare Earth Pore Refining Tonic The Amazonian white clay in this tonic deeply cleanses and detoxifies skin, leaving it softer and smoother, with noticeably smaller pores.
Super Multi-Corrective Cream The anti-ageing moisturiser lifts, smoothes, sculpts and retexturises facial skin. Paraben-free, the cream is suitable for sensitive skin.
Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Eye-Brightening Concentrate The line reducing eye treatment with 10.5% Pure Vitamin C and Haloxyl will strengthen, sooth and brighten the eye area and help to eliminate dark circles.
Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution Formulated with Activated C, white birch and peony extracts, the facial serum minimises the appearance of dark spots and leads to visibly brighter, more radiant skin.
Martina is a primary school teacher who likes to take care of her skin the most natural way possible. All she needs is clean water, a good moisturiser and an eye cream with no unnecessary additives.
Martina Novotnรก | 58 | Czechia
TAKE A STROLL ON THE WILD SIDE with limited-edition accessories from the We Are Handsome Collection
The Bugaboo by We Are Handsome Collection is designed for fearless parents who want to stand out from the crowd. The striking designs make an unmistakably bold statement. Unique, iconic and instantly recognisable, the collection will inspire those who lead healthy, active lifestyles.
MYBABYSTORE s.r.o., Drahobejlova 13, 190 00 Praha 9 | www.mybabystore.cz
TRANS NORM IMAGINE A FUTURE WHERE THE IDEA OF BEAUTY IS AS WONDERFULLY VARIED AS HUMANITY ITSELF AND AS VIBRANT AS THE NEW EXCLUSIVE ERDEM X H&M COLLECTION, PRESENTED HERE BY DAMIAN AND JAMIE. partner for the article: H&M | text & styling: Patrik Florián | models and interviewees: Jamie Rose and Damian Machaj | photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková | make-up and hair: Victoria Sabo/ Makeup Group
BEAUTY COMES FROM WITHIN AND NO ONE CAN DICTATE WHO YOU ARE INSIDE. JAMIE AND DAMIAN, WHO AS LITTLE CHILDREN RECEIVED THE LABEL BOY AND GIRL, KNOW THIS VERY WELL. BOTH HAVE BEEN ABLE TO AFFIRM THEIR GENDER, NOT ONLY THROUGH BODY CLUES, DRESS AND BEHAVIOUR, BUT ALSO THROUGH THEIR INNER FEELINGS AND CONVICTIONS. LET’S NOT FOOL OURSELVES – OUR CULTURE STILL HAS A RATHER LARGE QUESTION MARK OVER THE TOPIC OF GENDER IDENTITY. ANYONE WHO WANTS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE ISSUE IS VERY WELCOME AT TRANS*PARENT.
Jamie Rose studies philosophy at the Charles University in Prague and is interested in American culture and politics and the literature of queer women. Damian Machaj is a creative, a trans activist and a blogger. He studied at Prague’s Academy of Performing Arts and is an audio-visual artist currently working as a multimedia content producer for Czech Radio. They are both actively involved in the not-for-profit organisation Trans*parent. Founded in 2015, Trans*parent strives for empowerment, social justice, promotion of rights, and positive social change for the benefit of trans women, trans men and other non-cisgender persons. The organisation provides a meeting space, organises support groups, offers advice, works on opening dialogue between the trans community and the wider world, and organises discussions and other events. Their website offers topical news, guidance and advice, interesting articles, and a practical glossary of terms that will help you gain a footing in the transgender community and avoid uncertainty in your communication. This autumn the Swedish brand H&M will feature the work of the renowned fashion designer Erdem Moralioģlu in the ERDEM x H&M collection. Known for his romantic, floral patterns and elegant women’s cuts, in this collection the designer has ventured for the first time into the world of menswear, where he did not shy from using delicate materials and playful designs. The collection reflects the designer’s belief in the power of beauty and expresses not only the past, but also personal experience. For a sneak peek at the colourful collection, look out for the grandiloquent teaser made by Baz Luhrmann. For more information visit www.jsmetransparent.cz and www.hm.com. ►
Damian and Jamie muse over the question of beauty from the position of a trans man and a trans woman, and explore the limits of the beauty ideals our society has created. Society’s perception of what is beautiful is not static – it changes with time and cultural shifts. Is today’s society more open than in the past, or does it simply prescribe different beauty ideals, ones that continue to limit those who don’t fit them neatly? J: To be honest, I try to avoid any kind of judgment relating to the idea of beauty. Just as other aspects of beauty, deciding on what is beautiful in people is highly dependent on personal preference. Judgements on people’s individual appearance can be hurtful, and we can’t pretend that they are in any way objective or neutral. D: I feel the same. Even our personal preferences stem from culturally encoded norms. Norms that are created from images and representations of what is thought to be acceptable and ideal within our cultural context. J: Especially in the context of trans people, I feel that society places great demands on us to fit into existing traditional norms not only in terms of appearance, but also in terms of behaviour. A classic example is the general expectation that trans people won’t speak about their identity and that they’ll try to fit completely into the greater community.
D: I’d go so far as to say that when a trans person who appears to fulfil societal expectations challenges some of the traditional norms, he or she can be perceived as a traitor by the mainstream. Here I’m speaking from personal experience. Not so long ago I got to a place where I no longer attract quizzical glances that wonder whether I am this or that. This is a great relief, but I also realise that it’s a great privilege. When people mention that I now really look like a man, and that few would know that I am a trans man, I often answer with what may be perceived as a challenge. How should a real man or a woman look? J: It’s silly to dictate how one should look, whether based on gender or some other characteristic, because many people don’t even realise that the norms they consider to be fixed are actually very fluid in time. If I’m not mistaken, men started to wear high-heeled shoes so they could more easily get into the saddle, and only later did high-heeled shoes become a strong symbol of femininity. What was once considered to be beautiful and appropriate for a particular group of people can be interpreted very differently in another time. I think this is true not only for the evolving question of gender identity, but also aesthetics as a whole. Today we consider many of the graphic elements of the 1980s and 1990s as gaudy, yet we don’t take into account that they were an intentional reaction to what came before. ►
D: I personally hope that the growing representation of trans people and the fact that we are seen more – and more importantly, heard more – is a sign that the established norms are being redefined and that we are beginning to let go of judgement and prejudice, which are so hurtful and limiting. I think that trans people are a kind of reflection of today’s society – we show that the structures that have been created in society are restrictive, but this makes us very vulnerable. J: I think that societal norms are shifting constantly to a certain degree. The question is in which direction the shift is moving. Historically we have seen many examples of shifts from one restrictive
norm to another. The shift we need to see, I think, is one where no two people will interpret the term ‘beautiful’ in the same way. Let’s be open to the reality that beauty cannot be firmly established. If our shift is only from the mindset that ‘a beautiful woman should look like this’ to ‘a beautiful woman should look like that’, then we haven’t really moved at all. The ideal would be to reach a place where everyone can look the way they look, present themselves the way they want to present, and no one will be judged for looking or behaving against gender norms... because there wouldn’t be any. If we can reach this place then we probably won’t need any further shifts, but reaching it won’t be easy. ■
PREVIOUS PAGE AND RIGHT: dress, 7,999 Kč; shirt, 1,499 Kč; pants, 1,999 Kč, all from the exclusive ERDEM × H&M collection dress, 5,999 Kč; shirt, 1,499 Kč; pants, 1,999 Kč, all from the exclusive ERDEM × H&M collection
AT DOUGLAS DOUGLAS AT
WIN A NEW Kånken BACKPACK! Win a Kånken backpack by Fjällräven from the limited edition #kankenart. Write to email@example.com (subject: #kankenart) and tell us which world-famous art gallery or museum you would take this backpack to and why. The most interesting answer wins.
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For complete contest rules go to www.soffamag.com. For more information on the backpack visit www.fjallraven-shop.cz.
MAKE-UP SCHOOL COSMETICS STORE BEAUTY STUDIO
PERFECT SOUND Inspired by an orca’s ferocious beauty, the Czech audio speaker AQ Passion Orca features a sleek design matched perfectly to its ability to produce perfect sound.
Křižíkova 477/119, Prague, Karlín, Czech Republic
TALISMAN THEY SAY EYES CAN RECOGNISE MILLIONS OF COLOURS, EARS ABOUT HALF A MILLION TONES AND THE NOSE MORE THAN A BILLION SCENTS. THE NEW SCENT FROM THE FRENCH FASHION HOUSE HERMÈS WILL MAKE YOUR HEAD SPIN WITH JUST THREE SIMPLE INGREDIENTS. YOUTHFUL, PLAYFUL AND ADVENTUROUS – THAT’S TWILLY D’HERMÈS, INSPIRED BY THE BRAND’S ICONIC NARROW SILK SCARVES. TIE THE COLOURFUL RIBBON AROUND YOUR WRIST, WEAVE IT INTO YOUR HAIR OR LET IT FLUTTER ON THE WIND. text: Patrik Florián | photo: Lina Neméth
The former chemist and the first female ‘nose’ at Hermès, Christine Nagel was inspired by the freedom of youth when developing the new scent. Ginger, tuberose and sandalwood represent freshness, mystery and tenderness. The classic notes arranged in a surprising combination will awaken all your senses. Adorned with a cute bowler hat and a silk ribbon that can be tied a thousand different ways, the first truly youthful perfume from Hermès is a perfect talisman for any girl who is not afraid to dance through life with her head in the clouds. Close your eyes, breathe in and let yourself be drawn into a dreamy world full of colour and wonder. ■ www.hermes.com
CLOSER TO NATURE NEW COLLECTIONS THIS AUTUMN EMBRACE VIVID COLOURS AND NATURAL MOTIFS. HERE WE FEATURE SOME OF THE MOST PLAYFUL ONES! text and styling: Adéla Kudrnová | photo: company archives
Lady Minerals 10961 Raw Canvas Paint, www.jotun.com, price based on amount | Floating Leaves 03 Print, Moebe × Paper Collective × Norm Architects, www.moebe.dk, €40 unframed | Blad Coffee and Tea Jars, Klong, www.royaldesign.com, $73 and $54 | Belted Utility Dress, www.arket.com, €89 | Junit Lamps, www.schneid.org, from €125 | Apple-Cinnamon Løv Organic Tea, www.kusmitea.cz, 410 Kč | Adidas × Raf Simons New Runners, www.footshop.cz, 10,190 Kč
BUY GOOD DESIGN Design fairs are springing up like mushrooms everywhere. Unfortunately, they aren‘t always what they claim to be: the international design fair blickfang is different.
Design is often equated with ‘handmade’, and the actual design quality becomes secondary. This is different at the international design fair blickfang, where a curated spectrum of international furniture, fashion and jewellery designs is presented at seven different sites and a jury ensures that hobby creations are excluded. In addition, designers are always available at their stands for visitors, because unlike at similar conceptually strong design festivals, everything that appeals to you at blickfang can be bought directly from the designer. Or if you can‘t wait until the fair begins, you can browse the online blickfang design shop right away. www.blickfang.com
Save the Date! blickfang Vienna | MAK | 27.–29. October 2017 blickfang Zurich | Stage One | 10.–12. November 2017 NEW! blickfang Bern | Messe Bern | 24.–26. November 2017 Designers Market by blickfang | imm cologne | 19.–21. January 2018 blickfang Hamburg | Deichtorhallen | 02.–04. February 2018 blickfang Stuttgart | Liederhalle | 16.–18. March 2018 blickfang Basel | Messe Basel | 04.–06. May 2018 Tickets also available online at the blickfang design shop: www.blickfang-onlineshop.com
STREET QUEENS MEET LENKA ONDRUCHOVÁ, A FAN OF VINTAGE, A SNEAKERS FIEND AND THE FOUNDER OF QUEENS – THE FIRST SNEAKERS AND STREETWEAR SHOP IN CZECHIA. partner for the article: Queens | text: Patrik Florián | make-up & hair: Kristýna Hlaváčová photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková
THIS PAGE AND NEXT: While Queens is planning a new flagship store in Prague, it has not forgotten its native Ostrava. The shop on Stodolní street opened in January 2009 and its fresh look reflects the brand’s identity. Queens shops and offices are designed by the duo Boris Klimek and Lenka Damová.
Lenka’s outfit: jeans, t-shirt, beanie, all from Wood Wood; bomber, Cheap Monday; sneakers, Nike Air Max 97; all available from www.queens.cz
Lenka’s outfit: t-shirt, Queens Team; skirt, Asos; sneakers, Nike Mayfly Woven
THE IDEA OF QUEENS WAS BORN OUT OF A PASSION FOR DISCOVERY AND SHOPPING. STARTING WITH JUST TWO CLOTHES HANGERS OF VINTAGE ITEMS, LENKA HAS BUILT A SUCCESSFUL ONLINE SHOP AND TODAY PROUDLY OWNS OUTLETS IN OSTRAVA, BRNO AND PRAGUE. QUEENS OFFERS THE LATEST IN STREETWEAR FASHION, COLLABORATES WITH ARTISTS AND INFLUENCERS, ORGANISES CREATIVE EVENTS AND IS PLANNING TO EXPAND ABROAD. LENKA IS NOT ONLY THE ‘QUEEN’ AT QUEENS, BUT ALSO A MUM, AND SO BETWEEN SELECTING THE LATEST COLLECTIONS AND RUNNING THE COMPANY, SHE HELPS HER SON WITH HOMEWORK.
You started out as an entrepreneur right out of university. Was it always your dream to own a business? As a young girl I helped my father in his company, so when I got a chance to sell my things in a street art shop in Ostrava, and later to take it over, I didn’t hesitate. If I’m good at anything, it’s shopping, and I absolutely love fashion, so it was an easy choice. I can’t do something I don’t love – I have to do work that comes from the heart.
chains. How has Queens done it? We opened the sneakers and streetwear market in Czechia. We’ve always tried to offer something new to our customers, though at times we have been a bit too far ahead [laughter]. At Queens we focus on selection and quality. It also helps that I stand out and so people remember me. When I started out I painted graffiti and acted a bit like a man, and so I won my place in this space. I gave it everything – my first weekend off was after seven years, my first holiday after eight years, and my first salesperson earned more than I did. Luckily I was always able to make my work fun – like combining rap and reggae concerts with business meetings in Berlin and Vienna.
What do you love best about your work? And what has changed since you started? Although I have a team of buyers now, I will always love the excitement of discovering new pieces. Visiting massive trade fairs or finding tiny second-hand shops, the different cuts and materials, I love it all! I’m a bit of a maniac with three big wardrobes. I keep everything and as trends return, I love rediscovering old things. Today I live in the country, cook and help my son with his homework, and I take my role of a mother very seriously. But I also love to get back to the enthusiasm of my young team, which is hugely inspirational. And I realise that I will probably never get to wear my 200 pairs of sneakers.
You are planning to expand Queens with an online shop in Germany and a flagship store on Jindřišská street in Prague. What’s your vision for the future? With a new market we’ll be able to offer a wider range of products and grow our brand. Also, we simply have to be part of the new centre of streetwear fashion that’s being set up in Prague. With the upcoming Queens flagship store our fans can look forward to great new fashion, interesting projects and fun events.
Streetwear shops have popped up like mushrooms in the past few years, and it’s hard to keep up with the large
For more information visit www.queens.cz. ■
MONDI NEUSIEDLER IN TOUCH EVERY DAY
THE BEAUTIFUL PAPER YOU ARE HOLDING IN YOUR HANDS IS PLANO®ART. IT IS MADE BY THE AUSTRIAN PAPER MAKER MONDI NEUSIEDLER, PART OF THE INTERNATIONAL PACKAGING AND PAPER COMPANY MONDI. From four paper manufacturing facilities in Austria, Slovakia and Russia, the Mondi company produces office and fine paper for offset, pre-print and digital printing – made specifically to match the latest advances in digital print technologies. Mondi Uncoated Fine Paper business adheres to the most stringent of international standards for sustainable manufacturing processes through the responsible management of forests and water resources, and through emissions reductions. All Mondi uncoated fine papers belong to the Green Range: they are produced from FSC® or PEFC™ certified wood from sustainably managed forests or from 100% recycled paper, or they are produced completely chlorine free. The Austrian Mondi Neusiedler paper company has been making paper since 18th century. Their portfolio of paper products includes Color Copy, BIO TOP3®, DNS®, HSI, NAUTILUS®, Plano Art® and many others. For more information visit www.mondigroup.com
Do It Yourself
IMPRESSIONS BEAUTY AND ART HAVE ALWAYS GONE HAND IN HAND. WITH THE HELP OF COSMETICS FROM PERFUMERY DOUGLAS, WE HAVE CREATED ORIGINAL WORKS OF ART TO INSPIRE YOUR CREATIVITY. COSMETIC BRUSHES, LIPSTICK TEXTURES, FOUNDATION AND EYESHADOW SHADES – COSMETICS CAN DO WONDERS NOT ONLY ON YOUR FACE! partner for the article: Douglas text: Adéla Kudrnová | styling: Lenka Hlaváčová photo: Lina Németh
PRODUCTS FROM THE DOUGLAS COLLECTION: Kiss & Curl Mascara; Eyeshadow Pen, Lovely Pink; Nail Polish, Mint Paradise; Long Lasting Nail Polish, In Your Own Thoughts; Lipstick, #F066; Jumbo Shadow Pen; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Color Impact; Prime & Glow Foundation; Bronzing Powder SPF 15, #1; Creamy Foundation Stick; Eye Pencil, Bluesy Blue; Duo Eye Glow Highlighter, Matt & Glow; Contouring Palette Make-Up Set; Powder Blush, Corail; My Glow Palette Face & Cheek Highlighters; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Soft Brown; Quattro Eyeshadow; Mattifying Powder, #6; Dual Tip Contour Brush; Dual Tip Smoky Brush; all products available at www.douglas.cz
LEFT: Age-Defense Foundation; Lipstick, #F066; Nail Polish, Mint Paradise; Quattro Eyeshadow; Dual Tip Contour Brush; Bronzing Powder SPF 15, #1; Eye Pencil, Bluesy Blue; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Color Impact; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Soft Brown; all products available at www.douglas.cz
RIGHT: Kiss & Curl Mascara; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Color Impact; Bronzing Powder SPF 15, #1; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Soft Brown; Powder Blush, Corail; Dual Tip Contour Brush; Dual Tip Smoky Brush; all products available at www.douglas.cz
BASIC BEAUTY INTRODUCING THE YPPERLIG COLLECTION FROM IKEA × HAY, FEATURING NEW FURNITURE AND HOME DECOR ITEMS, INCLUDING A REVAMP OF THE ICONIC IKEA SHOPPING BAG. partner for the article: IKEA | text: Holly Alderson | photo: IKEA’s archive
THIS OCTOBER IKEA LAUNCHES ITS LATEST COLLECTION DESIGNED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE DANISH DESIGN COMPANY HAY. THE YPPERLIG COLLECTION INCLUDES A WIDE RANGE OF PRODUCTS, FROM SOFAS AND COFFEE TABLES TO ACCESSORIES LIKE AN UPDATED VERSION OF THE ICONIC IKEA SHOPPING BAG. THE MATERIALS, COLOURS AND PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES THAT DEFINE YPPERLIG HAVE RESULTED IN A COLLECTION THAT HONOURS TRADITION AND ADAPTS IT FOR MODERN LIVING, A COLLECTION WITH A MINIMALIST AESTHETIC PERFECTLY EPITOMISED BY THE PHRASE ‘BASIC BEAUTY’. YPPERLIG IS CONTEMPORARY YET AGELESS AND STAYS TRUE TO ITS TRADITIONAL IKEA FEATURES.
Mette and Rolf Hay are the husband-and-wife team behind the design company HAY. Founded in Copenhagen in 2002, HAY focuses on creating furniture for modern living using sophisticated industrial manufacturing processes. The couple draws inspiration from architecture, fashion and art, creating pieces that have a straightforward and functional aesthetic. Simply put, a perfect partner for IKEA. ‘From the start, we were very clear that we wanted this collaboration to be true to IKEA, meaning honest and substantial products at an affordable price that would be around for a long time,’ explains Mette Hay. The HAY × IKEA collection consists of just under 70 items, from candlestick holders to cushion covers, shelves, tables, sofas and tea light holders. Every item has its distinctive charm and each piece compliments the next, making the entire collection an effortless compilation of minimalist appeal. Keep an eye out for the release of the Ypperlig collection in October 2017, and tell us about your favourite pieces! For more information visit www.ikea.cz ■
LEFT: YPPERLIG SOFA BED: When designing the YPPERLIG sofa bed, the team wanted a product that offered more than good looks – the challenge was to create a sofa bed that also offered a great night’s sleep. By using a spring mattress as the seat, the team created an elegant sofa for around-the-clock comfort and convenience.
LEFT: MONOBLOC CHAIR: One of Rolfâ€™s personal favourites, the monobloc chair is bound to be popular with its minimalist appeal and modern aesthetic. Rolf liked the chair so much that the team added a dining chair and a lower lounge chair to the collection.
LEFT: PLANK TABLE: Plank tables have always played a big part in the Scandinavian furniture tradition. Using the latest board-on-frame technique that offers extra durability, combined with solid wood legs and a metal underframe, HAY has produced a stable plank table with a clean and natural look.
RIGHT: THE ICONIC IKEA BAG: The iconic blue IKEA shopping bag has also had a makeover. Without changing the size or material, Mette updated the colours and the weaving patterns and created an extra durable version. The IKEA bag now comes in three fresh colours.
BUGABOO ATELIER COLLECTION Bugaboo introduces the Atelier Collection, a limited-edition design for the Bugaboo Cameleon3 and Bugaboo Buffalo pushchairs and prams. The collectionâ€™s sleek lines, contrasting colour palette and bold silhouette are sure to catch the eye. By using a stone mĂŠlange fabric and black leather-look details, our designers have cleverly added another visual dimension to the stunning contours of the pushchair.
MYBABYSTORE s.r.o. Drahobejlova 13, 190 00 Praha 9 www.mybabystore.cz
MYBABYSTORE s.r.o. Drahobejlova 13, 190 00 Praha 9 www.mybabystore.cz
MILADA, A HISTORICAL FILM FROM THE DIRECTOR DAVID MRNKA, TELLS THE TRUE STORY OF DR. MILADA HORÁKOVÁ, A POLITICIAN AND REFORMER WHO FOUGHT FOR WOMEN’S RIGHTS AND POLITICAL CHANGE IN THE FORMER CZECHOSLOVAKIA. MILADA RISKED HER OWN LIFE AND THE SAFETY OF HER FAMILY DURING THE SECOND WORLD WAR AND AFTER THE ONSET OF COMMUNISM, NEVER ONCE DIVERTING FROM HER MORAL COMPASS. TOGETHER WITH HER COLLEAGUES, MILADA WAS ARRESTED BY THE COMMUNIST STATE AND AS THE ONLY WOMAN WAS SENTENCED TO DEATH ON FABRICATED CHARGES OF CONSPIRACY AND TREASON. THE FILM HONOURS THE STRENGTH AND RESOLVE OF ALL INDIVIDUALS WHO STOOD UP TO THE MALEVOLENCE OF THE COMMUNIST REGIME. MILADA WILL BE SHOWING IN SELECT CZECH CINEMAS FROM 2 NOVEMBER 2017. FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MILADAFILM.COM.
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HIGHLIGHT: Narcissus ILLUSTRATION: Beauty Through Time TRAVEL: Hallo Wien INTERIOR: Quiet Opulence FASHION: Trans Norm FOOD: The Art of Tea
ISSUE THEME: BEAUTY Ponder for a moment why beauty is so important to us. The ephemeral and subjective concept of beauty awakens a vast range of emotions, and SOFFA 23 is certain to awaken something beautiful in you!
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SOFFA: JOY FROM THE HEART OF EUROPE Discover the best and the most beautiful from the Czech Republic and Central Europe: exquisite design, inspirational stories, unknown interiors and hidden gems well worth your visit.