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SOFFA 23 / BEAUTY, English edition

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SOFFA

design

food

people

travel

VOLUME | 23

life


SOFFA

design

food

people

travel

life


ISSUE THEME: BEAUTY Ponder for a moment why beauty is so important to us. The ephemeral and subjective concept of beauty awakens a vast range of emotions, and SOFFA 23 is certain to awaken something beautiful in you!


Contents

SOFFA ISSUE 23 IS DEDICATED TO

BEAUTY Since everyone perceives beauty differently, we have blended a colourful cocktail of stories with something for everyone. Whether you believe that beauty lies in simplicity, or that it equals pain, we think you will find something in this issue that rings true to you. We begin with the history of the beauty ideal, accompanied by Barbora Idesová’s original illustrations, and follow with a spectacular interplay between photography and painting in an essay by the photographer Alžběta Jungrová, the painter Martin Krajc and the make-up artist Margita Skřenková. We also show that beauty ‘blemishes’ have their analogies in nature, where they are seen as anything but imperfect. When thinking about a city with incredible architecture and an unsurpassed atmosphere Vienna tops our charts, and we are confident that our travel story will help you fall in love with the beautiful city. Our modern fashion story by Michaela Karásek Čejková is inspired by the old Greek myth of the beautiful Narcissus, who fell in love with his own reflection. And to prove that beauty often hides in the unexpected, look to our stunning macro images of glass shards. The issue also touches on deeper themes of beauty and society’s perceptions of trans and genderqueer persons. Lastly, we introduce Olga Stráníková and her tender photographs. While perusing this issue we are sure you will exclaim at least a few times: ‘Now that is beautiful!’

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6 10 18 40 42 48 49 58 66 72 78 87 89 102 105 119 122 128 132 138 151

Welcome | With All Our Hearts Illustration | Beauty Through Time Travel | Hallo Wien SOFFA Tips | Guided 17/18 Art | Perceiving Beauty Editor’s Choice | Beauty Tips Creative People | Of Light and Shadow Food | The Art of Tea Beauty | Telltale Signs Fashion | Trans Norm Photo Essay | Naked Glass Scent | Talisman Photo Essay | Trinity Editor’s Choice | Closer to Nature Interior | Quiet Opulence Utterly Czech | Stag Power Creative People | Street Queens Do It Yourself | Impressions Decor | Basic Beauty Analogy | (im)Perfect Fashion | Narcissus


Welcome

WITH ALL OUR HEARTS I am proud of my work and my team. It is not often you get to work with people who share your values and who love their work to boot. When in the spirit of this issue I thought about what makes my life beautiful, I came up with this: I am surrounded by people who live and work with all their hearts and I get to create beautiful and hopefully even valuable things. To me there is nothing better than this! And so it was easy for me and the team to say ‘yes’ when we were approached by the organisation Loono to become ambassadors of their campaign #zijessrdcem [Your Heart For Life], which is teaching people across Czechia how to look after their hearts and prevent cardiovascular disease. We are keenly aware that our modern lifestyle is not very kind to our hearts. The daily pressure and stress of deadlines, too little physical exercise, too many hours in front of the computer, too much rushing about. Most of us don’t stop to think whether we are doing enough to keep our hearts strong and healthy. The #zijessrdcem campaign is helping us to do just that, and I hope it will help to inspire you as well! Allow yourself to rest for a moment and savour our new issue, full of sustenance for the heart and soul: beautiful people, beautiful places, beautiful interiors, beautiful stories and all of it printed on beautiful paper!

Adéla Kudrnová | editor in chief

PS: On the next page read about how some of our editorial team live with all their hearts. To learn more about the #zijessrdcem campaign, visit www.loono.cz.

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HEART ‘HEART IS LOVE, PASSION AND EMOTION, THE PULSATING ENERGY FOR EVERYTHING I LOVE.’ Tereza, editor | ‘HEART FOR ME IS LIFE ITSELF, BECAUSE A BODY WITHOUT A HEART IS LIKE A CAR WITHOUT A MOTOR.’ Max, production manager | ‘I LIVE WITH ALL MY HEART BECAUSE I CAN’T LIVE ANY OTHER WAY, LITERALLY AND FIGURATIVELY.’ Hanka, editor | ‘TO ME THE HEART IS AN INDICATOR OF WHETHER THINGS ARE AS THEY SHOULD BE – A KIND OF A PERSONAL CENTRE OF INTUITION.’ Lenka, art director | ‘FOR US LIVING WITH ALL OUR HEARTS IS TAKING THE PATH LESS TRAVELLED AND EMBRASING THE EXPERIENCE.’ Ingrid and Peter, English translation and editing


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Illustration

BEAUTY THROUGH TIME ALTHOUGH THE NOTION OF BEAUTY IS RELATIVE, THROUGHOUT HISTORY PEOPLE HAVE BEEN TRYING TO ACHIEVE COMMONLY HELD IDEALS OF BEAUTY. text: Hana Švolbová | illustration: Barbora Idesová

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CAN PEOPLE ACROSS THE GLOBE AGREE ON WHAT IS BEAUTIFUL? AS YOU PROBABLY GUESS, NOT LIKELY. IN A RECENT EXPERIMENT A MULTICULTURAL GROUP OF GRAPHIC ARTISTS WAS ASKED TO TOUCH UP AN IMAGE OF A WOMAN SO THAT IT REPRESENTS THE IDEAL OF BEAUTY IN THEIR HOME COUNTRY. EACH ARTIST ALTERED THE WOMAN’S FIGURE, THE COLOUR OF HER COMPLEXION, AND THE COLOUR AND LENGTH OF HER HAIR. THE VARIETY OF RESULTING BEAUTIES SHOWS THAT WHILE THERE MAY BE A NATIONAL IDEAL, THE NOTION OF BEAUTY VARIES ACROSS THE GLOBE. THE SAME CAN BE SAID OF BEAUTY THROUGH TIME, AS TRENDS FROM DIFFERENT HISTORICAL ERAS OFTEN COMPETE. SOME COME AND GO, WHILE OTHERS ARE HERE TO STAY.

Throughout history the notion of what is beautiful has been influenced by the aesthetics of a given era and the general state of wellbeing. In times of war, poverty and famine, aesthetics valued fuller forms. In contrast, in periods of political stability and prosperity, slim figures were preferred. Even in times of prosperity the quest for ideal beauty has not been for everyone, as it has always depended on wealth and the potential for self-realisation. Period trends have also reflected the artistic movement of the day: the Gothic period featured slim lines and elongated, pointy forms, while the Baroque was richly adorned and plump. Prior to the twentieth century, the ideal of beauty changed relatively slowly. The last century ushered in a time of rapidly changing norms of beauty, and each decade became defined by specific standards and icons. The most fundamental changes came in the gradual revealing of the human body, the removal of the many layers of clothing, and the growing popularity of sport and recreation. Some decades celebrated thin, almost boy-like female figures (the 1920s, 1960s and 1990s), while other decades saluted fuller figures (the beginning and end of the century and the 1950s). Throughout the ages and all around the world women and men have been ‘improving’ their appearance to achieve the ideal of beauty. One of the best known examples is the use of the corset, a garment worn to create an artificially small waist and accentuated hips and breasts. Dominant in Victorian England, the corset was popular as late as the 1950s, and it has even made a comeback with pin-up and burlesque retro fashion. The Rococo period preferred tall wigs and high-heeled shoes for men, which gave the wearer an appearance of a taller stature, and women and men of the noble classes favoured white complexion with rosy cheeks. The luxury of changing the tone of one’s complexion has today become commonplace, though for a number of years the European beauty ideal has favoured tanned skin – a sign of health and vitality. ►

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SLENDERNESS Historical art tells us that a slender figure was the ideal of beauty as early as ancient Egypt and ancient China, and that it influenced the European aesthetic during the Gothic period. A narrow waist and shoulders told the world that one did not have to toil in the fields. In the 1920s slenderness became popular as a reaction to the wide skirts and broad hips of the preceding era, and in the straight, emancipated designs of the period, women’s curves became imperceptible. The fas-hion industry of the 1960s and 1990s was ruled by an ideal that was often too thin and unhealthy, and garnered many critics. Slenderness continues to define the beauty ideal in many parts of the world, thanks in great part to the development of sport and recreation and a growing interest in a healthy lifestyle.

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FERTILITY In Czechia the idea of fertility is inextricably linked to the 25,000-year-old clay statue of the Venus of Dolní Věstonice. Possibly a representation of a mother goddess, the statue has exceptionally large breasts and hips that symbolise the prerequisites for successful reproduction. The ideal of fertility has been rooted in the human psyche since time immemorial. Full curves with a round belly are depicted in ancient Greek and Roman statues and in Renaissance paintings, and in the Baroque period they became more voluptuous still. In some cultures around the world a full figure and a statuesque body are prized to this day. Since fertility is not only a woman’s domain, many cultures celebrate the ideal by enhancing depictions of male reproductive parts as symbols of virility.

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FEMININITY The hourglass shape – with its narrow waist and full breasts and hips – was iconic even in times when fashion favoured slenderness, partly due to the timeless popularity of the fertility ideal. In the modern era, marked by efforts to elevate women from the status of the weaker sex, the ideal of femininity has been raised to new heights. Victorian England highlighted women’s curves, aided by the use of corsets and layered skirts. In the 1950s the feminine ideal found its embodiment in the actress Marilyn Monroe, whose 90-60-90 figure helped define feminine perfection. More recently, countering the popularity of the athletic supermodels of the 1980s and 1990s, and the extremely thin models that followed, the hourglass figure is becoming popular once again. 14


MASCULINITY While it may appear that beauty and fashion trends focus only on women, ideals of male beauty are also subject to changing tastes. While the ideal of a strapping, muscular male figure may be timeless, men’s hairstyles, facial hair and clothing go in and out of fashion. When a few years ago the term ‘metrosexual’ was coined, it seemed that men had never been more effeminate. Yet a glance into history and across cultures reveals that men have always paid attention to their appearance. Ancient Egyptians favoured make-up and perfumed oils, ancient Greeks and Romans focussed on their bodies, Louis XIV’s male courtiers paraded around in tall wigs and high-heeled shoes, and men in traditional cultures have always adorned themselves with tattoos, body paint and headdresses.

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PERFECTION Humans are imperfect creatures, and as such we are obsessed with symmetry and ideal proportions. Can a perfect face be considered beautiful? In general, faces thought to be beautiful by a particular ethnic group, culture or nation tend towards perfect facial symmetry. In the past ‘perfection’ was achieved with the help of fashion accessories, make-up, wigs and complex constructions hidden beneath the clothes. In more recent times people have looked to cosmetic surgery to achieve their idea of the perfect face and body. Paradoxically, with the growing popularity of cosmetic interventions, we no longer perceive an unnaturally perfect face as beautiful. Indeed, there is beauty in our unique imperfections. 16


Illustration

Through the ages the quest for beauty has also led to bodily deformation. Chinese women, aiming for small, lotus-shaped feet, succumbed for centuries to the very painful process of foot binding. And the adage ‘beauty is pain’ continues to rule to this day. To be sure, body deformation is not only about beauty. The elongated necks of Kayan women in Myanmar and northern Thailand, the wooden and clay plates inserted into the lips of some African and Amazonian groups, the tattooing of Maori men, and the scarring of the Surma people of Ethiopia – all of these beauty elements also serve as a form of protection or an expression of one’s wealth, status or maturity. Today there are growing numbers of people who undergo cosmetic surgery in their quest for the ideal. Gone are the days when most cosmetic surgeries focussed on an oversized nose or an embarrassing birthmark – today it is possible to submit essentially any part of the body to the surgical altar of perfection. This brings us back to the cultural variety of beauty, for where some women choose to have fat removed from their hips and derriere, elsewhere in the world they have them artificially enhanced. Yet there is one theme that connects across many cultures – our quest for eternal youth. Longing to remain young, we are willing to put up with bruising under the eyes or temporary facial muscle paralysis. Like it or not, we pay a high price in fulfilling our desire to be beautiful. ■

ILLUSTRATOR

BARBORA IDESOVÁ Barbora is an independent illustrator who likes to see her work on utilitarian items that bring people joy. She creates editorial and commercial illustrations that are inspired by nature, meditation, good friends and other kind creatures. Beings from Barbora’s own mythology also feature in her work, including goddesses, god-like creatures, woodland nymphs and other mythological entities. Endowed with ordinary human qualities, these mythological beings appear in strangely familiar dreamy scenes full of symbolic elements that awaken our inner child and more. www.barboraidesova.com 17


Travel

HALLO WIEN JOIN US ON A JOURNEY TO THE CITY OF WALTZ, KLIMT AND THE SACHERTORTE, A CITY REPLETE WITH BEAUTIFUL ANTIQUE SHOPS AND RESIDENTIAL COMPLEXES WELL AHEAD OF THEIR TIME. text: Helena Novotnรก | photo: Michaela Karรกsek ฤ ejkovรก

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Travel

VIENNA HAS A LOT IN COMMON WITH PRAGUE, WHERE THE SOFFA MAGAZINE ORIGINATES – AFTER ALL, THE MANY CZECH NAMES ON VIENNESE SHOPFRONTS INDICATE OUR COMMON HISTORY. THE SOFFA TEAM VISITS VIENNA OFTEN, BUT THIS TIME WE HAVE GONE IN SEARCH OF PLACES LESS WELL KNOWN. THERE WAS THE OBLIGATORY SACHERTORTE AND A TRIP TO THE RESPLENDENT HUNDERTWASSERHAUS, BUT WE ALSO WENT IN SEARCH OF LESSER KNOWN CAFES AND FASCINATING RESIDENTIAL COMPLEXES SADLY OVERSHADOWED BY VIENNA’S ABUNDANT PALACES.

For centuries Vienna was the seat of the Habsburg Monarchy and later the centre of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The city enjoyed its heyday during the reign of the Empress Maria Theresa, whose grand memorial between the Natural History and the Art History Museums is a must see. The Habsburg Monarchy’s imprint on the city can still be felt today: the expansive riding halls, royal gardens and gleaming white palaces, so grand they evoke a feeling of personal insignificance. Although Vienna was created mainly in the Baroque and Art Nouveau eras, one of the city’s main features is the Gothic St. Stephen’s Cathedral, called lovingly Steffl by the locals. The cathedral is a notional reference point not only for its great height – the southern tower reaches an impressive 137 metres and makes the cathedral one of the tallest points on Vienna’s panorama – but also for its roof, covered in thousands of coloured glazed tiles that have been arranged in a striking pattern. The decorative roof is so iconic it does not matter that it is not the original roof, which was damaged at the end of the Second World War. The cathedral is located next to the famous Graben street. Nearby await many of the famous Viennese cafés and pastry shops, renowned for the Sachertorte that has been perfected over two centuries of baking. One of the famous cafés is Aida, whose outlets grace every other corner in Vienna. There were eleven outlets before the Second World War, and today the chain boasts an impressive forty. From a distance the Aida cafés are unmistakable by their pink neon logo, and pastel pink also features in ► LEFT: The café and pastry shop Aida is recognisable for its pink signage, plastic furniture and a display case full of typical Austrian pastries. Although nothing has changed in Aida over the years, new outlets of this popular cafe keep popping up, and not only in Austria – franchises have opened in Canada, Croatia and Saudi Arabia.

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Fashion

TRANS NORM IMAGINE A FUTURE WHERE THE IDEA OF BEAUTY IS AS WONDERFULLY VARIED AS HUMANITY ITSELF AND AS VIBRANT AS THE NEW EXCLUSIVE ERDEM X H&M COLLECTION, PRESENTED HERE BY DAMIAN AND JAMIE. partner for the article: H&M | text & styling: Patrik Florián | models and interviewees: Jamie Rose and Damian Machaj | photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková | make-up and hair: Victoria Sabo/ Makeup Group

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BEAUTY COMES FROM WITHIN AND NO ONE CAN DICTATE WHO YOU ARE INSIDE. JAMIE AND DAMIAN, WHO AS LITTLE CHILDREN RECEIVED THE LABEL BOY AND GIRL, KNOW THIS VERY WELL. BOTH HAVE BEEN ABLE TO AFFIRM THEIR GENDER, NOT ONLY THROUGH BODY CLUES, DRESS AND BEHAVIOUR, BUT ALSO THROUGH THEIR INNER FEELINGS AND CONVICTIONS. LET’S NOT FOOL OURSELVES – OUR CULTURE STILL HAS A RATHER LARGE QUESTION MARK OVER THE TOPIC OF GENDER IDENTITY. ANYONE WHO WANTS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE ISSUE IS VERY WELCOME AT TRANS*PARENT.

Jamie Rose studies philosophy at the Charles University in Prague and is interested in American culture and politics and the literature of queer women. Damian Machaj is a creative, a trans activist and a blogger. He studied at Prague’s Academy of Performing Arts and is an audio-visual artist currently working as a multimedia content producer for Czech Radio. They are both actively involved in the not-for-profit organisation Trans*parent. Founded in 2015, Trans*parent strives for empowerment, social justice, promotion of rights, and positive social change for the benefit of trans women, trans men and other non-cisgender persons. The organisation provides a meeting space, organises support groups, offers advice, works on opening dialogue between the trans community and the wider world, and organises discussions and other events. Their website offers topical news, guidance and advice, interesting articles, and a practical glossary of terms that will help you gain a footing in the transgender community and avoid uncertainty in your communication. This autumn the Swedish brand H&M will feature the work of the renowned fashion designer Erdem Moralioģlu in the ERDEM x H&M collection. Known for his romantic, floral patterns and elegant women’s cuts, in this collection the designer has ventured for the first time into the world of menswear, where he did not shy from using delicate materials and playful designs. The collection reflects the designer’s belief in the power of beauty and expresses not only the past, but also personal experience. For a sneak peek at the colourful collection, look out for the grandiloquent teaser made by Baz Luhrmann. For more information visit www.jsmetransparent.cz and www.hm.com. ►


Fashion

Damian and Jamie muse over the question of beauty from the position of a trans man and a trans woman, and explore the limits of the beauty ideals our society has created. Society’s perception of what is beautiful is not static – it changes with time and cultural shifts. Is today’s society more open than in the past, or does it simply prescribe different beauty ideals, ones that continue to limit those who don’t fit them neatly? J: To be honest, I try to avoid any kind of judgment relating to the idea of beauty. Just as other aspects of beauty, deciding on what is beautiful in people is highly dependent on personal preference. Judgements on people’s individual appearance can be hurtful, and we can’t pretend that they are in any way objective or neutral. D: I feel the same. Even our personal preferences stem from culturally encoded norms. Norms that are created from images and representations of what is thought to be acceptable and ideal within our cultural context. J: Especially in the context of trans people, I feel that society places great demands on us to fit into existing traditional norms not only in terms of appearance, but also in terms of behaviour. A classic example is the general expectation that trans people won’t speak about their identity and that they’ll try to fit completely into the greater community.

D: I’d go so far as to say that when a trans person who appears to fulfil societal expectations challenges some of the traditional norms, he or she can be perceived as a traitor by the mainstream. Here I’m speaking from personal experience. Not so long ago I got to a place where I no longer attract quizzical glances that wonder whether I am this or that. This is a great relief, but I also realise that it’s a great privilege. When people mention that I now really look like a man, and that few would know that I am a trans man, I often answer with what may be perceived as a challenge. How should a real man or a woman look? J: It’s silly to dictate how one should look, whether based on gender or some other characteristic, because many people don’t even realise that the norms they consider to be fixed are actually very fluid in time. If I’m not mistaken, men started to wear high-heeled shoes so they could more easily get into the saddle, and only later did high-heeled shoes become a strong symbol of femininity. What was once considered to be beautiful and appropriate for a particular group of people can be interpreted very differently in another time. I think this is true not only for the evolving question of gender identity, but also aesthetics as a whole. Today we consider many of the graphic elements of the 1980s and 1990s as gaudy, yet we don’t take into account that they were an intentional reaction to what came before. ►


Scent

TALISMAN THEY SAY EYES CAN RECOGNISE MILLIONS OF COLOURS, EARS ABOUT HALF A MILLION TONES AND THE NOSE MORE THAN A BILLION SCENTS. THE NEW SCENT FROM THE FRENCH FASHION HOUSE HERMÈS WILL MAKE YOUR HEAD SPIN WITH JUST THREE SIMPLE INGREDIENTS. YOUTHFUL, PLAYFUL AND ADVENTUROUS – THAT’S TWILLY D’HERMÈS, INSPIRED BY THE BRAND’S ICONIC NARROW SILK SCARVES. TIE THE COLOURFUL RIBBON AROUND YOUR WRIST, WEAVE IT INTO YOUR HAIR OR LET IT FLUTTER ON THE WIND. text: Patrik Florián | photo: Lina Neméth

The former chemist and the first female ‘nose’ at Hermès, Christine Nagel was inspired by the freedom of youth when developing the new scent. Ginger, tuberose and sandalwood represent freshness, mystery and tenderness. The classic notes arranged in a surprising combination will awaken all your senses. Adorned with a cute bowler hat and a silk ribbon that can be tied a thousand different ways, the first truly youthful perfume from Hermès is a perfect talisman for any girl who is not afraid to dance through life with her head in the clouds. Close your eyes, breathe in and let yourself be drawn into a dreamy world full of colour and wonder. ■ www.hermes.com


Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: enamel and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm


Photo Essay

TRINITY HOW DO THE PAINTER MARTIN KRAJC, THE PHOTOGRAPHER ALŽBĚTA JUNGROVÁ AND THE MAKE-UP ARTIST MARGITA SKŘENKOVÁ IMAGINE BEAUTY? THE TRIO OF ARTISTS – FOR WHOM VISUAL PERCEPTION IS THEIR DAILY BREAD – CAME TOGETHER TO CREATE A STUNNING GALLERY OF IMAGES. TAKE A MOMENT TO CONTEMPLATE THEIR BEAUTY. text: Adéla Kudrnová | models: Aneta Laudová, Marika Komárková/ Eskimo, Barbora Dlasková, Denisa Kršková/ Czechoslovak Models | styling: Terezie Dvořáková | production: Barbora Šafaříková make-up and hair: Margita Skřenková | photo: Alžběta Jungrová | paintings: Martin Krajc

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Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: acrylic, oil pastel, charcoal and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm


Editor’s Choice

CLOSER TO NATURE NEW COLLECTIONS THIS AUTUMN EMBRACE VIVID COLOURS AND NATURAL MOTIFS. HERE WE FEATURE SOME OF THE MOST PLAYFUL ONES! text and styling: Adéla Kudrnová | photo: company archives

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Lady Minerals 10961 Raw Canvas Paint, www.jotun.com, price based on amount | Floating Leaves 03 Print, Moebe × Paper Collective × Norm Architects, www.moebe.dk, €40 unframed | Blad Coffee and Tea Jars, Klong, www.royaldesign.com, $73 and $54 | Belted Utility Dress, www.arket.com, €89 | Junit Lamps, www.schneid.org, from €125 | Apple-Cinnamon Løv Organic Tea, www.kusmitea.cz, 410 Kč | Adidas × Raf Simons New Runners, www.footshop.cz, 10,190 Kč


Interior

QUIET OPULENCE IN A DEEP VALLEY NESTLED AGAINST A PICTURESQUE HILLSIDE LIES THE BOUTIQUE HOTEL NAMED BETWEEN FENCES. DON’T WAIT FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO THE BESKID MOUNTAINS – THIS PLACE IS A DESTINATION ALL OF ITS OWN. text: Helena Novotná | photo: Lina Németh

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THIS SPREAD: The guest rooms are spacious, full of light and furnished with only what you really need. The furniture is either custom-made or comes from the Danish makers Normann Copenhagen, Ferm Living and Hay. The white Suspence Nomad lamp, designed by studio GamFratesi for Lightyears, can be moved freely to any part of the room or even taken to the garden.


Analogy

(IM)PERFECT OUR PERCEPTIONS OF BEAUTY FOCUS MOSTLY ON PERFECTION. WE DEPILATE AND POWDER OUR BODIES, COLOUR OUR HAIR, SMOOTH OUT OUR WRINKLES. WHAT IF OUR BLEMISHES ARE PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE, PERHAPS EVEN PERFECT? text: Hana Švolbová | styling: Lenka Hlaváčová | photo: Lina Németh

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WHILE PEOPLE HAVE ALWAYS COVERED UP THEIR IMPERFECTIONS, CURRENT TIMES ARE PUSHING US TOWARDS AN EVER GREATER UNIFORMITY. IMPERFECTIONS PREVIOUSLY CONSIDERED NORMAL ARE TODAY PERCEIVED AS EMBARRASSING, AND WE WORK HARD TO COVER THEM UP. SADLY, WE TAKE A SIMILAR VIEW TO IMPERFECTIONS FOUND IN NATURE – YOU WOULD BE HARD PRESSED TO FIND A BENT CUCUMBER, A POINTY TOMATO OR AN UNEVENLY COLOURED APPLE ON THE SHELVES OF YOUR LOCAL SUPERMARKET. SOME OF OUR COMMON BEAUTY ‘BLEMISHES’ HAVE THEIR PARALLELS IN NATURE. THE ANALOGY IS FOUND IN THE DETAIL.

Cosmetic blemishes may be merely aesthetic, such as excessive body hair, but a rash or a large birthmark could be a sign of a serious health problem. People try to prevent or remove these types of blemishes because we view smooth skin as a sure sign of youthfulness and good health. Our body is capable of naturally correcting most cosmetic imperfections: a scab or a bruise forms on a bumped knee, to be replaced in time with beautiful new skin. And what of scars? A scar too is proof of our body’s amazing ability to regenerate, yet it is often viewed as an aesthetic problem to be covered or erased with the tools of modern medicine. Let’s focus, however, on blemishes that are not the result of injury, but are quite natural and common. ■

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BIRTHMARKS, SPOTS AND FRECKLES THEY SAY THAT A GIRL WITHOUT FRECKLES IS LIKE A NIGHT WITHOUT STARS. BIRTHMARKS CAN ALSO BE CHARMING, AND A SINGLE BIRTHMARK ON THE FACE OR CLEAVAGE IS IN SOME CULTURES A MARK OF BEAUTY. BUT SKIN COVERED BY MANY BROWN SPOTS IS THOUGHT TO BE UNATTRACTIVE, ESPECIALLY AS IT IS OFTEN A SIGN OF AGEING. We do not have much influence over the appearance of birthmarks and freckles on the face, arms and cleavage, as they are programmed by genetics. Freckles form from an increased production of the skin colouring melanin. They can be influenced by hormonal changes and excessive exposure to sun, and they also appear in a place of minor injury and with age. ‘Age spots’ are also found in places you would not expect – just look around.


BODY HAIR ACROSS TIME, CULTURES OR SOCIAL CLASSES PEOPLE HAVE LOOKED AT BODY HAIR AND ITS REMOVAL IN VARIOUS WAYS. IN MODERN TIMES WE HAVE COME TO EXPECT THAT WOMEN WILL HAVE PERFECTLY BARE LEGS, UNDERARMS AND INTIMATE AREAS, BUT MANY MEN HAVE ALSO COME ON BOARD. The most common argument for depilation is hygiene and the prevention of body odour, which is caused by bacteria that break down sweat. But our body hair, including that found on the head, is there for a good reason. It protects the skin from injury, helps in its regeneration and lessens friction. In our quest for a perfectly smooth and fragrant skin we deprive it from these wonderful benefits. The rest of nature prizes hair, fur, bristles and thorns for their protection.


‘STRETCHED ON THE SHADOWED GRASS HE GAZES AT THAT FALSE IMAGE WITH UN-SATED EYES, AND LOSES HIMSELF IN HIS OWN VISION.’ The Metamorphoses, Book III: 437-473

THIS SPREAD: shirt, Barrandov Studio Costume Collection | pants, COS shirt, stylist’s own

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EDITORIAL STAFF

CONTRIBUTORS

Adéla Kudrnová I editor in chief adela@soffamag.com Lenka Hlaváčová I art director & designer lenka@soffamag.com

Tereza Škoulová | writer Hana Švolbová | writer Damian Machaj | writer Jamie Rose | writer Alžběta Jungrová | photographer Olga Stráníková | photographer Barbora Idesová | illustrator Martin Krajc | painter Margita Skřenková | make-up artist

Lina Németh I photographer lina@soffamag.com Michaela Karásek Čejková I photographer michaela@soffamag.com Róbert Kováč I graphic designer robert@soffamag.com Helena Stiessová I managing editor editor@soffamag.com Helena Novotná I editor & editorial office assistant helena@soffamag.com Patrik Florián I editor & fashion stylist patrik@soffamag.com Max Smrčka I production manager max@soffamag.com Terézia Bělčáková I sales manager terezia@soffamag.com Petr Novák I sales manager petr@soffamag.com Dita Loudilová I event manager dita@soffamag.com

Ingrid Martonova I English translation Peter Stannard I English revision & proofreading

© SOFFA, s.r.o. 2017 I All rights reserved www.soffamag.com I info@soffamag.com Cover photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková CONTACT www.soffamag.com info@soffamag.com DISTRIBUTION Would you like to become a SOFFA distributor? Email us at stockist@soffamag.com

SUBSCRIPTION MANAGED BY SEND předplatné, spol. s r.o., Ve Žlíbku 1800/77, hala A3, Praha 9 tel. +420 225 985 225, soffa@send.cz PRINT H.R.G. spol. s r.o. Svitavská 1203, 570 01 Litomyšl PAPER COVER: PlanoArt® 300g/m² INSIDE PAGES: PlanoArt® 150g/m²

PUBLISHER SOFFA, s.r.o. Špálova 444/6 162 00 Praha 6 – Střešovice www.soffamag.com IČ: 03055671 / DIČ: CZ03055671 Registration: MK ČR E 21947, ISSN 2336-5943 Volume 23 published on 12 October 2017

Find the winners of the SOFFA contests from the August issue at www.soffamag.com/contests


HIGHLIGHT: Narcissus ILLUSTRATION: Beauty Through Time TRAVEL: Hallo Wien INTERIOR: Quiet Opulence FASHION: Trans Norm FOOD: The Art of Tea

ISSUE THEME: BEAUTY Ponder for a moment why beauty is so important to us. The ephemeral and subjective concept of beauty awakens a vast range of emotions, and SOFFA 23 is certain to awaken something beautiful in you!

www.soffamag.com LIFESTYLE

£ 10 I 220 Kč

SOFFA: JOY FROM THE HEART OF EUROPE Discover the best and the most beautiful from the Czech Republic and Central Europe: exquisite design, inspirational stories, unknown interiors and hidden gems well worth your visit.


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