VOLUME | 17
SOFFA ISSUE 17 IS DEDICATED TO ELEMENTS SOFFA issue 17 conceals within itself the characteristics of the four basic elements â€“ fire, water, earth and air. The issue examines the basic elements of our world from all angles: through alchemy, through the latest in technological developments, through our senses and personalities, and through astrological signs. Where else to go for our travel feature in an issue devoted to elements than to Iceland, the spectacular land of fire, ice, volcanoes and waterfalls? The theme of volcanoes and the elements of fire and water return in the story about Paul Tvaroh and his artistic skill of mixing unconventional cocktails. The earth element is best represented in our report on a hunt for truffles, which comes complete with a scrumptious truffle recipe. Ballet presented as a captivating and extreme interplay of elements is a photo story you must not miss, as is the minimalist gallery of unorthodox jewellery created from fire, water and other elements by studio Zorya. The issue would not be complete without the dramatic fashion story Elements of Her, in which we play with light and darkness, or the article about a French flat that resembles a cabinet of curiosities. And because SOFFA is a Czech magazine, we had to include a beer guide!
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ISSUE THEME: ELEMENTS Fire, water, earth, air. Join us on a journey to temper the untameable forces of nature, the basic elements that permeate everything in our world!
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CONTENTS - VOLUME | 17
01 | MYSTERY OF FOUR The Sign of the Four
03 | EDITORS’ CHOICE Autumnal Offerings
05 | FASHIONISTA’S DREAM 77 06 | CREATIVE PEOPLE Conversations in Fashion Rescued Fedrigoni
02 | TRAVEL Chasing the Northern Lights
The Basis of All That Matters
04 | BALLET OF ELEMENTS Extreme, Exciting and Elemental
07 | DIY PROJECT Light in Bloom
08 | INTERIORS Treasure Trove of Curiosity
09 | FASHION Elements of Her
11 | SOFFA & ZORYA
12 | HERITAGE Rediscovered Treasures
14 | SOFFA & VOLVO With Operatic Grace
15 | TRUFLE HUNT Buried Treasures
10 | A COCKTAIL’S TALE The Volcano
13 | CREATIVE PEOPLE The Taste of Czech Gold
Tagliatelle with Tartufo Nero 7
IN OU R EL EM EN T text: Adéla Kudrnová I photo: Adéla Havelková, Daniel Pošta
Over the past two months the entire SOFFA team has been in its element. Why? Because we have been preparing SOFFA 17 through which permeate the four basic elements—fire, water, earth and air. We have also moved to our first independent office with our own photo studio in the emerging Vnitroblock in Prague’s Holešovice (www.vnitroblock.cz), where we will be able to host workshops and other great events. Last but not least, we have been working on our programme for the upcoming Designblok – Prague Design and Fashion Week, where we will introduce a special limited collection of 17 NAUT FOR SOFFA backpacks, which are linked to this elemental issue. What will you find here? ►
The issue includes a travel story from Iceland—the land of fire and ice, which is featured on the cover. There is the chillingly dramatic fashion story Elements of Her, and a minimalist gallery of unique jewellery created from fire, water and other elements. You can also enjoy a bit of alchemy and astrology and explore an active volcano through an unconventional cocktail. Our senses and natures are also linked to the elements. When reading this issue try to pinpoint which element is yours. Fire (intensity), water (flexibility), earth (tranquility), air (friendliness)—can you see yourself? We can! Wishing you a beautiful autumn, Your SOFFA team
VOLUME | 17
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MY S T ERY O F F O U R Elements and Their Meaning
T HE SIG N O F T H E F O U R text: Martin Sova | illustration: Nina Schulze
WHETHER OR NOT YOU BELIEVE IN ASTROLOGICAL SIGNS, YOU WILL PROBABLY AGREE THAT THE FOUR BASIC ELEMENTS—FIRE, WATER, EARTH AND AIR—ARE LINKED TO PEOPLE’S PERSONALITIES AND EMOTIONS. WHICH ELEMENT IS YOURS?
AIR SIGN S ALTHOUGH AIR MAY BE THE MOST DIFFICULT OF THE ELEMENTS TO GRASP, THE IMPORTANCE OF THE ELEMENT IS EVIDENT NOT ONLY ON THE MOST PRACTICAL OF LEVELS—OUR BREATHING— BUT ALSO IN LEGENDS, MYTHS AND RELIGIOUS TRADITIONS FOUND ALL AROUND THE WORLD. AFTER ALL, THE JUDEO-CHRISTIAN SPIRITUS SANCTI (‘HOLY BREATH’) WAS OMNIPRESENT AT THE TIME OF CREATION AND PRANA (‘BREATHING’) IS ONE OF THE MANIFESTATIONS OF THE HINDU GOD VAYU. IN PEOPLE BORN UNDER THE SIGNS OF GEMINI, LIBRA AND AQUARIUS, AIR AND WIND ARE USUALLY CONNECTED WITH SPIRITUAL STRENGTH. WIND IS ALSO THE FACILITATOR OF UNDERSTANDING, WHEN WORDS CARRIED ON THE WIND CAN BE HEARD BY THOSE FOR WHOM THEY WERE INTENDED, OR WHEN INDIVIDUAL WHISTLES CAN BE PLUCKED FROM MELODIES TO WHICH THEY WERE ENDOWED IN THE DISTANT PAST. BESIDES, EVEN THE FIRST MYTHICAL HUMAN WAS BROUGHT TO LIFE BY BREATH.
EARTH SIGN S ALTHOUGH WE ARE ALL INTRINSICALLY LINKED TO THE FOUR ELEMENTS, OUR CONNECTION TO EARTH IS PARTICULARLY POWERFUL. FARMERS WHO COME FROM LONG FARMING LINEAGES CONTINUE TO RECITE PRAYERS FOR A BOUNTIFUL HARVEST AND GIVE THEIR THANKS TO MOTHER EARTH FOR HER LOVING NURTURE. THERE ARE MANY ASPECTS OF LIFE WE ASSOCIATE WITH THE ELEMENT OF EARTH AND ITS MYTHOLOGICAL REPRESENTATIONS, LIKE THE CHANGING OF THE SEASONS, THE GRAVITY WITH WHICH EARTH BINDS US, OR OUR SENSORY EXPERIENCE OF BEING ALIVE. ALTHOUGH THE EARTH ELEMENT IS LINKED TO THE FAVOURABLE CHARACTERISTIC OF BEING GROUNDED AND THE NOT SO FAVOURABLE CHARACTERISTIC OF BEING NARROW-MINDED, THE MOST COMMON TRAIT CONNECTED WITH THIS ELEMENT AND THE ZODIAC SIGNS OF TAURUS, VIRGO AND CAPRICORN IS PRACTICALITY. BUT PERHAPS MOST IMPORTANT FOR ALL OF US IS OUR INDIVIDUAL AND UNIQUE POTENTIAL, WHICH WE MUST ALL UNCOVER AND UTILISE, REGARDLESS OF THE STAR UNDER WHICH WE WERE BORN.
FIRE SIG NS FIRE WAS ESSENTIAL TO THE CREATION OF HUMAN CIVILISATION. ALTHOUGH WE LEARNT TO USE IT ONLY SOME 125,000 YEARS AGO, WE HAVE BEEN FASCINATED BY FIRE FOR MUCH LONGER. THE ANCIENT LEGEND OF PROMETHEUS, IN WHICH FIRE IS THE GUARDED SECRET OF GODS, FORBIDDEN TO MERE MORTALS, SPEAKS POIGNANTLY TO HOW DIFFICULT THE JOURNEY OF TAMING FIRE WAS FOR OUR DISTANT ANCESTORS. WE ARE REMINDED OF THE UNCONTROLLABLE FORCE OF DESTRUCTION WHEN WITNESSING A FOREST FIRE OR A HOUSE ENGULFED IN FLAMES, AND THE FIRE’S GIFTS OF LIGHT, WARMTH AND SECURITY WHEN ADMIRING THE SKILLS OF A GLASSBLOWER OR A BLACKSMITH. JUST LIKE OUR ANCESTORS WE DERIVE RICH MEANING FROM METAPHORS ASSOCIATED WITH FIRE, METAPHORS LIKE ‘IGNITED PASSION’, ‘WARMTH OF THE FAMILY HEARTH’ OR ‘BURNING ANGER’. AND THIS IS TRUE FOR EVERYONE, NOT ONLY THOSE BORN IN THE SIGN OF ARIES, LEO OR SAGITTARIUS.
WATE R SIG NS THIS POWERFUL ELEMENT TAKES MANY DIFFERENT FORMS. ON ONE END OF THE SPECTRUM IS GENTLE WATER, OUR LIFE SOURCE, FLOWING CALMLY AND STEADILY AROUND OBSTACLES THAT STAND IN ITS WAY. ON THE OTHER END ARE MIGHTY WATERS, ABLE TO ENGULF THE ENTIRE WORLD SO IT COULD BE CLEANSED, REVIVED AND REBORN. JUST AS THE MEDIUM CAN TAKE MANY FORMS, SO DO THE INTERPRETATIONS OF THE ZODIAC SIGNS ASSOCIATED WITH THE WATER ELEMENT. DEITIES CONNECTED TO BODIES OF WATER—BE THEY SPRINGS, BROOKS, RIVERS OR THE COLOSSAL OCEANS—HAVE BEEN HONOURED AND REVERED BY OUR ANCESTORS SINCE TIME IMMEMORIAL. AND SO HAVE ANIMALS THAT CALL WATER HOME—WHALES, WATER SNAKES (AND BY EXTENSION DRAGONS), TURTLES AND THE ZODIAC SIGNS OF CANCER, SCORPIO AND PISCES. CHARACTERISTICS LINKED TO THE THREE ZODIAC SIGNS ARE REFLECTED NOT ONLY IN OUR MYTHS AND LEGENDS, BUT ALSO METAPHORICALLY IN THE PERSONALITIES OF PEOPLE BORN UNDER THESE SIGNS.
THE BASIS O F A L L T H AT M AT T ER S text: Lukáš Paderta | styling: Flower Deli photo: Adéla Havelková
EVERYTHING WE SEE AND TOUCH HIDES WITHIN IT THE ATTRIBUTES OF THE FOUR BASIC ELEMENTS, THOUGH ONE ATTRIBUTE ALWAYS PREVAILS. ELEMENTS ARE THE BASIS OF EVERYTHING. THEY GUIDE EVERYTHING. THEY ARE FOUND EVERYWHERE. THEIR STRENGTH PERMEATES ALL. Fire, earth, water, air—they make up our physical world through transformation and symbiosis. Demise returns everything to its original – elementary form, just like the human body, which returns to earth after death. Each element has two basic qualities; one is unique to the element and the other facilitates continuity with the next element. Fire is warm and dry, earth is dry and cold, water is cold and damp, and air is damp and warm, and so the cycle of symbiotic transformation comes to a close. If two elements have two opposing qualities, then the elements themselves are opposing: fire versus water and earth versus air. Earth and water are heavy and passive. Fire and air are light and active. Ancient wisdom says that in nature there are four prime bodies of matter—rock, metal, plant and animal. Rocks are heavy and dry and therefore belong to the earth. Metals are believed to comprise a mercury-like liquid and therefore belong to water. Plants belong to air because they build their bodies from oxygen and carbon dioxide. And animals are driven by the fiery force of life and so belong to fire.
Elements are also linked to our senses. Sight belongs to fire because without light we could not see. Sound belongs to air because the vibrations of sound are carried by air. Smell and taste belong to water because without moisture we could not smell the aroma or taste the flavour of food. And touch is connected to all things physical and therefore belongs to earth. ■
EARTH Earth is the universal archetype of female energy; it absorbs the reproductive powers of all other elements. Earth hides the most powerful of all secrets and is at the centre of everything. Science ascribes carbon to earth. In alchemy the symbol for earth is an upside down triangle with a horizontal line at the bottom. The season associated with earth is winter â€“ the season of darkness.
FIRE Fire is the universal archetype of male energyâ€”creative but also destructive. It is the main element associated with change and cleansing and that is why it is used abundantly in rituals. Fire creates light and warmth. Science ascribes nitrogen to fire and alchemy represents it with a triangle. The season of fire is summer â€“ the season of warmth.
WATER Water is female energy, as without it there would be no life. Water dominates the other elementsâ€”it swallows up earth, extinguishes fire, rises to the skies and in the form of rain permeates deep into the earth. Water is connected to hydrogen and in alchemy is represented by an upside down triangle. The season devoted to water is autumn â€“ the season of harvest.
AIR Air carries the archetypal male energy. It is the life force that flows through all living things, connects everything, fills everything. Old scholars believed that images of past events were imprinted into air and thus created the atmosphere of a place. Oxygen is the element that belongs to air, and in alchemy air is represented as a triangle with a horizontal line on top. The season connected to air is spring â€“ the season of new life.
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T R AV EL Iceland
CHASING THE N O R T H ER N L I G H T S text: Tereza Menclová | photo: Tereza Menclová (@teturo_) and Matěj Šmucr (@matescho)
WE ALL HAVE A PLACE WE WOULD LIKE TO VISIT AT LEAST ONCE IN OUR LIFETIME AND FOR MANY IT WOULD BE ICELAND. THE PHOTOGRAPHERS TEREZA MENCLOVÁ AND MATĚJ ŠMUCR REALISED THEIR DREAM WHEN THEY EXPLORED THE ELEMENTAL BEAUTY OF THIS ASTONISHING ISLAND. THE STUNNING NATURE, COMBINED WITH THE CHALLENGES THAT A LONG JOURNEY STIRS UP, TRANSLATED INTO A COLOURFUL NOSTALGIC MEMORY. Iceland is a unique place, unlike anywhere else in the world. It is thus no surprise that it is known as the land of contrasts. When you drive a bit out of town you are greeted by a desolate moonlike landscape, where there is nothing but volcanic rock as far as the eye can see. You continue some twenty or thirty kilometres and find yourself amidst vast green plains dotted with sheep and the fabled Icelandic horses. And then in another moment you are standing by the sea. It is the kind of land that continues to enthral you even after fourteen days of intensive travel. ► LEFT: The Seljalandsfoss waterfall is one of the most sought out tourist destinations in Iceland. If you hope to get a good photograph, it is best to head there early in the morning or later at night, when the tourist wave has waned. NEXT SPREAD: The area surrounding the town of Vík offers a wide range of beautiful spots. Some of the nicest are Reynisfjara, the famous black beaches, or the Dyrhólaey cliffs, where you can spot puffin colonies. The sighting of an Icelandic reindeer is a very special treat. The Skógafoss waterfall is found in the southern part of the island near the town of Skógar. When visiting you must climb the stairs that flank the right side of the waterfall. You will be rewarded with a breathtaking view of a mass of falling water as well as the shore plain reaching out towards the sea.
In most people’s minds Iceland equals harsh elements and unpredictable weather that changes literally every minute. The week before our photographers’ arrival saw nonstop rain, and so Tereza and Matěj prepared for the worst with their clothing and travel gear. What a lovely surprise it was when at their landing in Keflavík the clouds parted over the land and out came the warming sun. Although cautious in their optimism about the weather, they exited the plane with a light step. In the end the weather was very kind to Tereza and Matěj and but for two nighttime cloudbursts they could enjoy dry gear, relatively clean boots and stunning sunsets—quite a gift when you are sleeping in a tent for two weeks. It was only the harsh wind, characteristic of the Icelandic coast, that at times spoiled their idyllic experience. Iceland’s stunning nature is not the only area of contrasts; you also find great differences in the number of people living in different regions. The busiest areas for tourists are of course the renowned locations near Reykjavík, such as the imposing waterfall Seljalandsfoss, a visit to which requires a great dose of patience if you want to get a photograph without the ever-present visitors in their colourful raincoats. The further you head along the coast towards the western fjords, however, the fewer cars and travellers you are likely to meet. It is a region defined by long ► RIGHT: The area around Eldhraun looks like a set from a fantasy film. The vast plains covered with a thick carpet of moss lend the landscape a very serene atmosphere. Perhaps the most famous plane wreck in the world can be found in Iceland. The American military plane crash-landed here in 1973. You will find the wreck after a four-kilometre hike along the black beaches. NEXT SPREAD: The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon is without doubt one of the most spectacular locations in Iceland. If you are lucky, you will spot frolicking seals. Jacket is a must!
stretches of empty road—no man’s land—where over the course of a day you see more sheep and solitary farms than people. After a week of desperate efforts to find parking near popular tourist attractions, this is a welcome change. The western fjords have not been untouched by the spirit of tourism, however. Small towns along the way are prepared for the arrival of hungry travellers in search of hot waffles with whipped cream and a hot cup of coffee. An excellent place with homemade treats and lovely service is the café Simbahollin in Pingeyri, where you can seek shelter from the wind blowing in from the fjords and refuel for the next leg of the journey. It is worth noting that although there are many romantic ideals linked to Iceland, these are not always matched by reality. Our photographers found that many ‘wish list’ places are full of people, buses and souvenir shops. But then there are moments when you camp completely alone under a gigantic rock in the most spellbinding of places with only two lost sheep as your companions. Or you climb one of the peaks near Reykjavík at sunset and are greeted by a breathtaking view of the region ►
PREVIOUS SPREAD: Stokksnes offers stunning natural scenery, and you can visit a model Viking village. LEFT: Langabúd is the oldest house in the village of Djúpivogur. Partly a café and partly a museum, each day it offers refuge to a number of travellers. Try their local apple cake! The Skaftafell waterfall is one of the few places where tourist buses don’t travel. To see it you must walk, but it is definitely worth the effort. NEXT SPREAD: The area around the Krafla volcano is tectonically unstable land dotted with sulphuric lagoons and small geysers. Here you will find one of the most efficient geothermal power stations on the whole island.
surrounding the capital city. These are the moments that make you fall in love with Iceland and wish you could stay on this beautiful piece of land forever. Time flows differently in Iceland. The locals have to adjust often to unpredictable changes in weather and for this reason they do not plan very much. Their manner is calm, thoughtful and open, something we are not accustomed to in large European cities. Yet it is exactly what the soul needs—to see a lonely fisherman wading through the icy waters, walk through empty streets of small towns, or observe the lights flicker in the windows of solitary farms. If there are words that can precisely paint the atmosphere of Iceland, they would be serenity and comfort. ■ We thank Urbanlux for providing the travellers’ gear: backpacks and shoes TOMS, www.urbanlux.cz
PREVIOUS SPREAD: What can be better than finding a geothermal pool along the road through the western fjords? There is no entry fee; all you need to do is ask the kindly old gentleman living on the nearby farm. LEFT: The Kirkjufell peak is an Icelandic icon. If you visit during sunset, you can witness a stunning natural colour play created by sunlight as it caresses the various dips and rises of the mountain slope. Iceland horses have become one of the symbols of the island. Their export is strictly forbidden, as is the import of other horse breeds. NEXT SPREAD: The Simbahollin café in Pingeyri offers the lightest and most delicious waffles served with whipped cream. Rocky peaks fringed by grassy planes in the area of Gatklettur. You can see the whole of Reykjavík from the Hallgrímskirkja church tower. For a great cup of coffee head to Reykjavík Roasters, and enjoy with it an excellent cinnamon roll from the Braud & co bakery found one street over.
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F O R T H E LOV E O F S H O ES LOOKING FOR AUTHENTIC TRADITIONAL SHOEMAKING? HEAD FOR THE SMALL TOWN OF VIERKIRCHEN NEAR MUNICH, THE HOME OF HANWAG SHOES. Since 1921, the year Hans Wagner established his shoemaking workshop in Vierkirchen, HANWAG has been producing sports shoes of the highest quality. A good example is HANWAG’s hiking boot Alaska, which has remained virtually unchanged since the original model was made in 1996. The traditional shoe manufacturer was also among the first to make special shoes for paragliding in the 1980s. If you are looking for a true sports shoe specialist, look no further than HANWAG. www.hanwag.com
text: Lenka Hlaváčová photo: company archives
E DI TO R S â€™ C H O I C E Autumnal Offerings
E L E ME N T S A L L A RO U N D styling: Helena Novotná & Adéla Kudrnová | photo: company archives
ELEMENTS ARE ALL AROUND US, YET WE DON’T OFTEN SEE THEM. NOTICE THE FIRE OF A CANDLE NESTLED IN AN ELEGANT HOLDER, OR EARTH EMBEDDED IN A GORGEOUS ORIGINAL RING!
photo: Lina Németh
Butterfly Poster, shop.soffamag.com, € 10.50 | BeoSound 1 Portable Wireless Speaker, www.bang-olufsen.com, € 1,295 | Marble Ring, www.cosstores.com, $ 35 | Candle Holder, design Alexander Girard, Vitra, $ 140 | Ro Scented Candle, www.skandinavisk.com, € 35 | Concrete Bowl, shop.gravelli.com, CZK 2,500 | Apple Watch Hermès, www.apple.com, $ 1,499
PAM P E R YO UR S EL F ! styling: Helena Novotná | photo: company archives
NOW IS THE TIME TO INDULGE IN SOMETHING THAT IS GOOD NOT ONLY FOR YOUR BODY AND SKIN, BUT ALSO YOUR SOUL AND CONFIDENCE. WE CAN VOUCH FOR IT!
De Son Shower Oil, Diptyque, www.ingredients-store.cz, CZK 1,100 | Stop the water while using me! Soap, www.nila.cz, CZK 390 | Mouthwash, www.aesop.com, € 19 | Unnamed Perfume, byredo.eu, € 98 | SPF 15 Lip Balm, Bobbi Brown, www.douglas.cz, CZK 650 | Nobilis Tilia Set, www.odivi.cz, CZK 1,490 | 116 Hand Creme Wild Rose, L:A Bruket, www.nordicday.cz, CZK 554
BALLET OF ELEMENTS Gallery of Movement
E X T R E M E , E XCI T I N G A N D EL EM EN TA L text: Tereza Škoulová | photo: Alžběta Jungrová
MOVEMENT, MUSIC, LIGHTS, MIRRORS. BREATH, SWEAT, FATIGUE. THE ROUTINE OF PROFESSIONAL BALLET DANCERS. SIX DAYS A WEEK, EIGHT HOURS A DAY. BEHIND EVERY GRACEFUL MOVE ARE HOURS OF PHYSICAL EXERTION, PERPETUAL PRACTICE, PAIN, EXHAUSTION. TOMORROW MORNING START ALL OVER AGAIN. ONE MOTION, BATTEMENT, OVER AND OVER. NEXT, ALLONGÉ, AGAIN AND AGAIN. THE SOUND OF PIANO, FRENCH TERMS, LONG GAZES INTO THE MIRROR. A DELICATE BALLERINA IN TRACK PANTS AND A LOOSE T-SHIRT. A MANIFESTATION OF THE STRENGTH AND BEAUTY OF THE HUMAN BODY. AN EXTREME DISCIPLINE OF THRILLING CONTRASTS. BALLET IS A PERFORMANCE OF ELEMENTS.
We thank Helena Bartlová from the Czech National Ballet for the opportunity to collaborate on this article and to photograph.
Air. The dancer’s soul. En l’air. His vitality, fluidity, grace. Breath as a life force, soul as the story and meaning behind the dance. Quick movement of the arms and legs, lightness of his leap, a gust of wind, a motion of searching. Soaring, weightlessness, finding one’s self between heaven and earth. A moment in flight.
Earth. The dancerâ€™s anchor. Pa de deux. From earth the dancer soars and leaps, to earth she plunges and returns. There is constant connection between the dancer and the earthâ€”she feels it, needs it. Without earth, the stage, the blank canvas, the dancer cannot perform. From the earth flows the quality of her movement: strong, clear, precise. It is energy, a beginning and an end.
Fire. The dancerâ€™s spark. ChassĂŠ. The dynamics of movement, spontaneity, charisma, passion. Fire sparks from every leap, with every turn, with every rebound. Fire as tension between a man and a woman, brilliance, physicality, sensuality. Fire as an arousal that burns within.
Water. The dancerâ€™s body. Adagio. A vital part of all of us, and a necessity of life. Water as endurance, direction, evolution, motion, flow. The element of life and of the dancerâ€™s energetic flow. Fluidity of movement, undulation of bodies, thirst for life. Freedom and equanimity.
opera PRESENTED AT THE NATIONAL THEATRE
DIE KLUGE DER MOND FOTO: JOSEF RABARA
CONDUCTOR: ZBYNĚK MÜLLER STAGE DIRECTOR: JIŘÍ NEKVASIL PREMIERES: 20. & 21. 10. 2016
FASHIONISTA’S DREAM KENZO × H&M
CO NVE R SAT I O N S I N FA S H I O N partner for the article: H&M | photo: Jean-Paul Goude
WHILE H&M DOMINATES THE HIGH STREET, KENZO IS A BRAND THAT RULES THE WORLD OF HAUTE COUTURE. KENZO’S CREATIVE DIRECTORS CAROL LIM AND HUMBERTO LEON TALK ABOUT THE HISTORY BEHIND A STELLAR COLLABORATION THAT IS EVERY FASHIONISTA’S DREAM COME TRUE. WHAT MADE YOU WANT TO COLLABORATE WITH H&M? Humberto Leon: We love how much fun you can have with an H&M collaboration. It’s an opportunity to do something big and bold that people can afford. We looked back at past H&M collaborations and saw how much fun they had, like the amazing wedding dress they did with Viktor & Rolf. Carol Lim: We queued up outside the SoHo H&M store in New York for the very first H&M collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld. I remember how everyone was so excited, the energy was crazy. We wanted to give people the chance to have the same fun with KENZO. WHAT’S THE IDEA BEHIND THE KENZO X H&M COLLECTION? Humberto Leon: We wanted to make this a three-dimensional conversation between us and what Kenzo Takada had started. We’ve never really played with the archives at KENZO, and we felt it was a great opportunity to story-tell and have some fun. We wanted to do something totally unique with this H&M collaboration, to look at the history of the brand through 21st century eyes. ►
CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT KENZO TAKADA? Carol Lim: Kenzo Takada was an innovator and a maverick. He came to Paris from Japan and set his own agenda for what he thought fashion should be. He had his own shop so he could experiment freely; he would just find fabric and make things out of it. He played with shapes and proportions, and simply had fun with fashion. When women wore his clothes they looked totally stylish but also totally effortless. Humberto Leon: If you look in the archives he did so much. He’s famous for his prints, but there’s so much else, like his ruffles which we really wanted to celebrate, his beading on jersey, or his early fauxfur pieces that were really extreme. He experimented so much with fashion, and it’s that spirit of playfulness that we wanted to capture in the KENZO × H&M collection. HAVE YOU EVER MET KENZO TAKADA? Humberto Leon: We wrote a letter to him the moment we were hired, telling him we were so excited to work on his label. We wanted him to know how much we loved his work, and how honoured we were to be there. We hoped that he’d be happy with our work and excited by where we would take KENZO next. He wrote back to us after our first show, thanking us for the energy that we’d brought to the house, and since then he’s been to almost all of our shows. Carol Lim: We did an interview with him recently, and we had a ton of questions to ask him, but he also had a ton of questions to ask us. He wanted to know everything about how Humberto and I work together, as much as we wanted to know all of his stories. It was amazing to hear about the 70s and 80s, and how fashion was at that time. He’s such a lovely, kind and generous person, and we’re so happy to be able to carry on his legacy. ►
HOW DID YOU BRING TOGETHER YOUR WORLD AND THE ARCHIVES FOR KENZO × H&M? Humberto Leon: KENZO x H&M is even more playful and proud than anything we’ve done with KENZO before. We’ve approached it a little differently than the work we do at the brand, because it gave us the chance to dream and think about pure fashion. We wanted to take our prints, Kenzo Takada’s prints, our look, his look, and to say that anything goes, clash it all, have fun. The great thing is none of this existed in our line before. We truly designed this collection for H&M in its purest form. For us it’s exciting because maybe you’ve bought from our KENZO collections before, or you once bought from Kenzo Takada’s collections, but you definitely wouldn’t have any of this. Carol Lim: Every piece is a conversation between us and Kenzo Takada. Nothing is taken directly from the archives, whether we’ve used our prints for an iconic style, or refreshed the design to make it part of our world. I love that this conversation is taking place across four decades, and yet it feels so alive and relevant for today. The KENZO × H&M collection will be available in the H&M store at the Myslbek Shopping Gallery, as well as online, from November 3, 2016. ■
Glass! 27. – 31. 10. Designblok
Prague Design and Fashion Week www.designblok.cz Designblok is supported by following institutions: Ministry of Regional Development of the Czech Republic, Ministry of Culture of the Czech Republic, EUNIC Cluster CR – European Union National Institutes for Culture, Netherlands Embassy in Prague, Embassy of Sweden in Prague, Lithuanian Embassy in Prague, Embassy of Belgium – Delegation of Wallonia, Cervantes Institute in Prague, Polish Institute in Prague, Bulgarian Cultural Institute in Prague, Goethe Institute in Prague, Italian Cultural Institute in Prague, Hungarian Cultural Institute in Prague, Embassy of Israel, Czech Centres, Prague 1 and Prague 7 City Districts, National Museum Official Suppliers: Excelent, KOMA Modular, Parfumerie Douglas, SIPRAL, Sonberk, Spyron, TONI&GUY, Veuve Clicquot Diploma Selection / Czech Section support: T-Mobile Czech Republic Media Partners: Architect+, Art+Antiques, CZECHDESIGN, Design&Home, Dolce Vita, Dopravní podnik hl. m. Prahy, elle.cz, ERA21, ELLE Decoration, Flash Art, H.O.M.i.E., Marianne Bydlení, Moje Psychologie, PLAKATOV.CZ, Radio1, SOFFA Foreign media partners: H.O.M.E., H.O.M.i.E., Atrium, Designum Acknowledgement: Hotel Jewel Prague, Metropol Hotel Praha, Ambiance Hotel, Absolutum hotel, Acqua Panna, San Pellegrino Partners:
adidas Czech Republic – Land of Stories Deloitte Nespresso Výstaviště Praha Holešovice
Main Media Partners:
General Media Partner:
Exclusive Outdoor Partner:
n CITY CYCLE COLLECTION—DESIGNED FOR SOFFA The City Cycle Collection—designer apparel and accessories for city cyclists—will be on show at Designblok 2016. The collection was designed for SOFFA by Filip Hieke and other members of Mindtravellers.net (photo: illustration from the collection by Filip Hieke).
S O F FA AT D E S I G N B L O K 2016 text: Adéla Kudrnová | photo: SOFFA archive | illustration: Filip Hieke
NAUT BACKPACK FOR SOFFA Designblok 2016 will feature NAUT FOR SOFFA, an embroidered backpack in a limited edition.
MINDTRAVELLERS.NET Our creative platform Mindtravellers.net is growing. At Designblok we will show you stunning images from around the world! (photo: Mindtravellers by Paweł Błęcki)
THIS YEAR’S DESIGNBLOK WILL TAKE PLACE BETWEEN 27. – 31. 10. 2016 AND THE THEME IS SPORT. SOFFA WILL BE PRESENT, OF COURSE, AND WE HAVE PREPARED AN EXCITING PROGRAM. WANT TO KNOW MORE? THE FOLLOWING IMAGES WILL PROVIDE SOME CLUES.
SOFFA MAGAZINE Just like every year at Designblok, you will be able to rest your feet on a very comfortable sofa and peruse our magazines!
WWW.DESIGNBLOK.CZ AND WWW.SOFFAMAG.COM
Karlova 2, Praha 1, 110 00
CR EAT I V E PEO PL E Signatura & Fedrigoni
R E SCU ED F EDR I G O N I text: Patrik Florián | styling: SOFFA | photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková and Johana Kratochvílová’s archive
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN A CREATIVE SOUL MEETS A CONSCIENTIOUS PAPER MANUFACTURER? A UNIQUE PROJECT EMERGES—ONE DEDICATED TO RECOVERING EVERY LITTLE PIECE OF UNUSED MATERIAL, A PROJECT IN WHICH SCRAPS OF BEAUTIFUL PAPER CAN PROVIDE ARTISTIC INSPIRATION AND JOY FOR MUCH, MUCH LONGER. Johana Kratochvílová is a photographer, graphic designer, experimenter and last but not least, an admirer of beautiful paper. She runs the graphic design studio signatura.cz, where she focuses, among other things, on distinctive graphic design for book covers and collectibles. Johana created the look of the poetry book Černá vzducholoď [Black Airship] by Jiří Suchý, which contains his own lithographs, and Václav Havel’s iconic Antikódy [Anticodes], complemented with lithographs by Štefán Tóth. Published by Teapot, Antikódy has recently been selected for the second round of the Top Fedrigoni Award 2017. Every little detail of Johana’s publications is carefully considered, and materials used in their creation are often sourced from all around the world. Art paper from England or Italy, thread from Germany, blue Italian ribbon, and ink delivered from across the seas. Add to this unusual covers from plate metal, individually crafted stamps, or the novel idea to create a book cover that could also serve as a lithograph frame. ►
LEFT: The playful workshop and multifunctional space is full of sunlight, colour and natural materials. On the table is the book Antikódy and a greeting card from the Rescued Fedrigoni project.
Johana’s creative approach and her unceasing effort to develop herself and her skills have helped her fulfil a dream—to open her own space teritorium 7, where she can create with other like-minded souls. Located in Prague’s Holešovice neighbourhood and literally renovated by Johana herself, teritorium 7 is a place for people who like to work with their hands. It is at once a small printing studio, a workshop, a mini gallery and a place for meetings, workshops, talks, travelogues and authors’ readings. The saying ‘sky is no limit’ is doubly true about Johana’s imagination. LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT AND TOUCH Several years ago Johana was introduced to paper made by the Italian paper manufacturer Fedrigoni. As she herself admits, ‘it was love at first sight and touch’. A little while later she developed such strong attachment to the paper that she could not see even one little scrap go to waste. Johana approached Fedrigoni’s Dana Hermanová, and later several printing houses, and they agreed that she would utilise the paper that would otherwise be shredded. And so from scraps of Fedrigoni paper she created her first series of greetings and notebooks under the label Rescued Fedrigoni. Thanks to the project, paper that would otherwise have been destroyed continues to bring joy and inspire new ideas. And what comes next? It is hard to say, as work with a multifunctional material like paper is a never-ending process, and Johana can find inspiration literally in every single sheet. For more information go to: www.teritorium7.cz, www.signatura.cz, www.zachraneny.cz, www.fedrigoni.cz ■
RIGHT AND NEXT PAGE: Paper wherever you look—right, left, above, below... Johana’s studio is a veritable paradise for lovers of this eternal material. Fedrigoni paper off-cuts wait for their next incarnation. Other pieces have already found their new life in small notebooks.
DI Y PRO J EC T Original Light
L IGH T I N B LO O M partner for the article: Animadecor | text: Helena Novotná styling: Janka Murínová | photo: Adéla Havelková
THE ENTRY HALL MUST BE A PRACTICAL SPACE. ONCE YOU HAVE HOUSED YOUR COAT, SHOES, KEYS AND UMBRELLA, OFTEN THERE IS NO SPACE LEFT FOR DECOR. WHERE TO PUT A VASE OF FLOWERS SO IT DOESN’T GET TOPPLED IN A RUSHED EXIT? FOLLOW OUR LEAD AND PUT FLOWERS ABOVE YOUR HEAD! DIFFICULTY LEVEL: Intermediate TIME: 60 minutes WHAT YOU NEED: artificial flowers such as those found at Animadecor.cz light with a soft (paper) light shade ribbon ruler sharp (craft) knife scissors
STEPS: Prepare your artificial flowers. Unwrap the light shade cover with the face side up and arrange the flowers on the cover. Each flower must be attached with the ribbon in two places—under the flower and at the end of the stem. With the knife and ruler cut two slots under each flower on both sides of the stem. Do the same for the end of the stem. Thread the ribbon through the created holes and tie it on the back of the cover so the knot is not visible. Continue in this way until you have attached all the flowers, remembering that you don’t need to cover the entire surface. ■
LEFT: Chair Dona Taupe, honey-gold glass vases, sparkly black rug, artificial flowers (eucalyptus, hydrangea, dahlia, peony), all at www.animadecor.cz
I N T ER I O R S Tapestries, Animals and More
TRE ASU R E TROV E OF CU R IO SIT Y text: Helena Novotnรก photo: Tracy Lynch / Frank Features
DO YOU FIND YOURSELF WALKING THE STREETS AND WONDERING WHAT HIDES BEHIND VEILED WINDOWS? ARE THE HOMES DECORATED IN SIMPLE STYLE OR FULL OF CLUTTER, FURNISHED WITH MODERN FURNITURE OR BEAUTIFUL ANTIQUES? WHEN IT COMES TO THE HOME OF THE FRENCH ARTIST FRÉDÉRIQUE MORREL, THESE QUESTIONS BECOME TOO SIMPLE. Frédérique and her husband Aaron Levin live in Paris in a home that also serves as their studio and personal art gallery. At first glance their home resembles a so-called Schatzkammer—a treasure vault in which every inch of available space is filled with various curiosities created by human hands or nature. The centrepiece of Frédérique’s collection are her own creations—statues of animals in which she has skilfully combined two seemingly disconnected crafts: tapestry and taxidermy. Why these two crafts in particular? Over the years Frédérique has noticed an increasing number of discarded tapestries on her regular jaunts to garage sales. Although they were made from expensive materials and had taken a lot of time to create, these objects had lost their value, in part because their aesthetic was no longer captivating. Frédérique decided to breathe new ‘animal’ life into these forgotten treasures, and so her home now harbours deer, hares, foxes, wolves and wild boars. Her passion has restored the forgotten craft of tapestry to its rightful decorative role in the interior of a home, but in a slightly unexpected form. Today Frédérique also collects old tapestries from people who hope that their family heirlooms will find new life in the form of a work of art. When the tapestries arrive, Frédérique cleans them and sorts them by theme, material or type of stitch. After that she decides which tapestry to use for her latest creation. At first she was led by the animals depicted on the tapestries, but today she lets her fantasy loose. As these striking photos prove, her fantasy knows no bounds. ■
ON THE SOFA: What rests on your living room sofa? Let yourself be inspired by Frédérique who knows that even a lonesome doe or a pig’s head need a comfortable place to sit.
IN A FAIRY TALE: One glimpse at this interior and you canâ€™t restrain your desire to discover the treasures hiding within. But just as in a fairy tale, you may feel a little scared of what you might find.
VERY UNUSUAL WAREHOUSE: Animals created from old tapestries radiate with colour but remain motionless. They evoke a nostalgia for the olden days, when tapestries were greatly valued and admired as objects of art.
PARADISE FOR THE ECLECTIC SOUL: An unusual, eclectic atmosphere rules in Frédérique and Aaron’s home. Vintage pieces, new works of art, modern technology and design commingle in a dynamic dialogue.
Satellite Pendant, Gubi, www.scandinavia-design.fr, € 868 | Kubix Table Lamp, House Doctor, www.royaldesign.com, $ 206 | Mio Bowl, House Doctor, en.smallable.com, € 9 | Marble Pattern Post-It, www.merci-merci.com, € 7 | Botanica Paper Diffuser Onion, www.toastliving.com, € 19.95 | Cabernet Candle, eshop.animadecor.cz, CZK 944 | Happy Socks - Don’t Panic, design Pasta Oner, www.urbanlux.cz, CZK 279 | Levo Urban Backpack, www.braasi.com, € 125 | All Seasons S 33 N Chair, www.thonet.de, Price upon request
NATURE IS THE COLOUR STYLIST FOR AUTUMN. FOLLOW NATURE’S LEAD AND PUT A SPLASH OF AUTUMNAL RED IN YOUR HOME OR YOUR WARDROBE. YOU’LL FIND THAT CHILLY WEATHER AND EARLY NIGHTFALL WILL BE MUCH EASIER TO BEAR!
styling: Adéla Kudrnová | photo: company archives
CO LO U RS OF AU TU MN
FA S H I O N Light / Drama
E L E M EN T S O F H ER concept and text: Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk styling: Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk and Patrik Florián | make up: Aleksandra Sidorina hair: Tomáš Koblása | photo and lighting: Ladislav Babuščák model: Vanda Knápková / Czechoslovak Models
FOR THIS FASHION STORY WE SINK DEEP INTO FEMININE SILHOUETTES AND ALLURING LINGERIE, AND BLUR THE LINES BETWEEN THE SUBVERSIVE AND THE SENSUAL. She is still, her long gaze pulling you closer What lies beneath a woman’s skin? The elements that sum up her deepest thoughts flicker and flash before us A nostalgia that beckons to go deeper into the night This is modern seduction, modesty dusted with femininity Her play is gold, a winner’s accolade, the embrace of Cleopatra It sets off, she brings light into the dark Drama that entices intrigue while silken waves fall from her skin Thoughtful intentions caressing her fragile shell Discover her strength, yearn for more These are elements of her A mystery to galvanise, a secret to set her free ■
RIGHT: swimwear, Tereza Vu top, Jakub Polanka pants, Dior
LEFT: underwear, Tereza Vu jumper, Dolce&Gabbana earrings, Louis Vuitton
BELOW: dress, ROSEanna, Space sweatshirt, Jakub Polanka necklace, Dior
LEFT AND RIGHT: underwear, For Love & Lemons, Space dress, Jakub Polanka belts, HUMANOID, Space necklace, Kateลina Sochorovรก - Kat.jewelry rings, mr. blackbird, La Gallery Novesta
LEFT: dress, Dior
BELOW: shirt, Jakub Polanka pants, COS bracelet, Zuzana Babkovรก, La Gallery Novesta ring, Dior
LEFT AND BELOW: underwear, Tereza Vu shirt, Dolce&Gabbana pants, Kateลina Geislerovรก bracelet, Louis Vuitton handbag, Louis Vuitton
ABOVE: underwear, Tereza Vu jacket, MASSOB La Coruña, Space boots, Dior earrings, Kateřina Sochorová - Kat.jewelry
RIGHT: top, Dior headpiece, Čarbičková design
W I N S CE N T E D CA N D L E S BY M E A D OW S ! Win a gift set of three MEADOWS scented candles valued at CZK 1,490. Write to us at email@example.com (subject: Meadows) to tell us what the ideal scent for your home is and why. The most interesting response wins! More at www.meadows.cz For complete contest rules go to www.soffamag.com
MO O O I CA R PE T S Moooi Carpets offers a rich and refined collection of carpets with unusual and iconic designs. The stunning carpets unlock a new world of possibilities for your home, office, hotel or restaurant. Visit the Bulb showroom and please your senses! www.bulb.cz
A CO C K TA I Lâ€™ S TA L E Introducing Paul Tvaroh
THE VO LC A N O concept: Paul Tvaroh | text: Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk | styling: SOFFA photo: Adéla Havelková
WHERE DOES ONE BEGIN WHEN TELLING A STORY? THE PROCESS OF PUTTING THOUGHTS INTO WORDS TO TELL AN INTIMATE MEMORY OR AN IMAGINED TALE IS VARIED. FOR SOME A STORY HAS A CLEAR BEGINNING, FOR OTHERS THE ENDING IS A MYSTERY THAT MUST BE EXPLORED. NO MATTER HOW YOU TELL A STORY, IF IT CAN GRAB YOUR ATTENTION AND TAKE A MOMENT’S BREATH AWAY, THEN IT HAS BEEN TOLD WELL. ACCORDING TO PAUL TVAROH FROM LOUNGE BOHEMIA, THE SAME CAN BE SAID OF A COCKTAIL, AND IN THE CASE OF HIS COCKTAILS THE PROOF IS NOT JUST IN THE TELLING, BUT IN THE TASTING TOO. We at SOFFA have been in awe of Paul Tvaroh’s creations, which have earned him the reputation of one of the best bartenders in the world. His inspirations translate magically into cocktails that are made with passion, dedication and most importantly good stories. Paul’s famous cocktails are nothing short of alchemy, combining his appreciation of a visual aesthetic with his knowledge of how to make an amazing drink to take you on a great journey. With every sip there is a mystery to unravel, and the best way to unravel it is to sit back, relax and chat with the master creator himself. For this issue of SOFFA dedicated to the Elements, we wanted to introduce you to one of Paul’s newest creations: The Volcano. Inspired by Mount Fuji, the cocktail is presented in a beautiful multi-faceted black vessel resembling something from the moon and dusted with a mysterious white powder around its rim. Encouraged by the discovery of a unique method to recreate mini volcanic eruptions, and impressed by the vessel designed by Max Lam, Paul embarked on a three-year journey to perfect what is now The Volcano. ►
Considering the process that goes into assembling The Volcano, it would be an injustice to refer to it simply as a drink. Firstly, Paul carefully inserts foam into the vessel to begin the impressive smoke effect. Next, guests are invited to slowly add liquid to create the eruptive bubbles that dramatically overflow the rim of the vessel. These mini eruptions are spellbinding and the cocktail is ready only when all the liquid has been added. And how does it taste? With the first sip comes a welcome surprise that transports you to the top of the majestic Mount Fuji. Legend has it that Mount Fuji’s fires were ignited by an Emperor who was lovesick over a princess from the moon. Found on earth as a little child and raised by a poor bamboo cutter, the princess grew into a beautiful woman desired by all the princes of the land and the Emperor himself. The princess rejected the Emperor as she wished to return to the moon to be with her people, and gave the Emperor the elixir of immortality as a parting gift. The Emperor was so devastated by the loss of his love that he sent his army to burn the elixir on Japan’s highest peak, so the blaze could reach the moon. The elixir of immortality has never stopped burning atop Mount Fuji, giving the majestic peak its name. There are four elements that embody the cocktail: sweet, sour, bitter and spice. The alcohol portion is Shōchū, a Japanese distilled beverage. Yuzu (Japanese citrus) is added to balance the flavour and add another Asian element, followed by jasmine tea syrup and a drop of liquid smoke. As with any good story there is also an element of surprise, a little something extra that Paul insists will remain a secret. Finally, the rim of the vessel is dusted with wasabi powder, a Japanese spice that adds heat and creates a stunning visual effect. The Volcano is pleasant, with subtle spicy tones. It is a perfect marriage of all five senses, with an added element of intrigue. Just like a good story! ■
WE HAVE CREATED
A WORKSTATION FOR YOUR CREATIVITY WITH THE FUNDS WE EARNED FROM OUR FIRST EXHIBITION OF IMAGES FROM THE MINDTRAVELLERS PROJECT WE HAVE CREATED A WORKSTATION FOR CREATIVES FROM ALL AROUND THE WORLD WHO WISH TO VISIT PRAGUE AND BE CREATIVE FOR SOME TIME IN OUR NEW SOFFA STUDIO. IF YOU ARE INTERESTED, WRITE TO US AT MINDTRAVELLERS@SOFFAMAG.COM AND LET’S COWORK! POWERED BY SOFFA AND NYDRLE
Let’s travel from neverwhere to everywhere photo: Adéla Havelková
S O F FA & ZO RYA Elemental Jewellery
G LOW text: Zdeněk Vacek | concept and art direction: Daniel Pošta, Zdeněk Vacek model: Miroko Maroko | hair: Tomáš Koblása | photo: Adéla Havelková
THE THEME OF ELEMENTS IN THIS SOFFA ISSUE HAS ALLOWED US TO PRESENT ZORYA IN ITS PUREST FORM. THE JEWELLERY BRAND, OR BETTER YET THE AVANT-GARDE JEWELLER, WAS ESTABLISHED A FEW YEARS AGO BY DESIGNERS DANIEL POŠTA AND ZDENĚK VACEK. ZORYA’S KEY MOTIVATORS ARE DEEP ADMIRATION OF ALL THAT IS FEMININE AND HOMAGE TO THE PASSAGE OF TIME, UNDERSTOOD IN THE MOST POSITIVE LIGHT AS NATURAL TRANSFORMATION AND CONTINUAL REBIRTH. The idea of transformation and rebirth is embodied in the triune figure of Zorya, the guardian of the heavens in Slavic mythology and the namesake of the jewellery brand. Zorya is the evening, midnight and morning star all in one, represented by a woman who changes each evening from a girl to a mother and each night from the mother to an old woman. With each evening Zorya is reborn and with each morning she departs. Just as Daniel and Zdeněk believe in uninhibited femininity, the passage of time and synergy, they also believe in the power of thought and in nature’s unrestrained energy. That is why the jewellers have chosen to not feature gold jewels, designer collections or engagement rings in this article. Instead they let natural phenomena and time do their magic. When asked about their approach to the photo shoot, the talented jewellers mused: “We play with alum crystals, which in the shimmer of moonlight can overshadow even the largest of diamonds. We visit the beginning of time, when magnetic forces became the cradle of life. We decorate with fire. We observe water as it disappears on a woman’s chest.” ■ We thank Odivi for lending us the clothes worn by the model.
Quietly. In darkness. Shielded from the light of the moon. She protects and warms life born of dust.
Trembling. Glistening. She creates energy, tears, sweat. Pure and fleeting. Beautiful.
Serene. Gleaming. She is born and disappears in the ancient ocean of Tethys.
Her face glowing with intensity. Elegant and gentle, she guides you through the night.
SOFFA & FRIENDS EVENTS
n JOIN OUR AUTUMN DIY, INTERIOR DESIGN AND CRAFT WORKSHOPS: • IN TRUE SOFFA STYLE • DELIVERED BY EXPERTS • SMALL GROUPS WITH A MAXIMUM OF 10 PARTICIPANTS • PREMIUM EXPERIENCE • DELICIOUS FOOD AND DRINKS INCLUDED
TOGETHER WITH VARIOUS PARTNERS SOFFA HOSTS REGULAR EVENTS TO BRING LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE TOGETHER TO LEARN NEW SKILLS AND SHARE OUR PASSIONS IN A RELAXED, CREATIVE ENVIRONMENT.
More at: www.soffamag.com photo: SOFFA archive
H ER I TAG E Traditional Handicraft Techniques
R E D ISCOV ER ED T R EA S U R ES text: Alice Klouzková, Martin Sova | styling: SOFFA photo: Alice Klouzková archive, Adéla Havelková
ALTHOUGH THE IDENTITY OF A PLACE IS USUALLY DEFINED BY LANGUAGE AND CUSTOMS, TRADITIONAL HANDICRAFT TECHNIQUES ALSO PLAY AN IMPORTANT YET OFTEN FORGOTTEN ROLE. ALICE KLOUZKOVÁ FROM PRAGUE’S ACADEMY OF ARTS, ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN (UMPRUM) DECIDED TO UNCOVER SOME OF THE FORGOTTEN TECHNIQUES OF OUR ANCESTORS AND IMPRINT THEM WITH A CONTEMPORARY LOOK. Cultural legacy can take many different forms. In her project Heritage, the doctoral student Alice Klouzková decided to resurrect specific techniques used in the past to make clothes and decorative items according to the custom of the day, whether for everyday wear or for special occasions. Today you are unlikely to find Strážnice blue print, Vamberk lace, pearl bead embroidery and traditional cloth weaving anywhere but in regional ethnographic museums across Czechia and Moravia. Alice wanted to liberate these techniques from their plexiglass displays and so decided to research them carefully and revive them in a modern form. Her work can be seen in the exhibition called Heritage showing at the UM Gallery (at UMPRUM) from November 9 to December 10, 2016. The pieces to be exhibited have retained the historical core of the chosen techniques, but they offer new interpretations as well as uses that are more relevant to current times. ►
If you are as fascinated by traditional handicraft techniques as Alice and we are, then we have good news for you. Starting this autumn you can join SOFFA & FRIENDS workshops where you will learn techniques like Strážnice blue print, Vamberk lace, pearl bead embroidery and cloth weaving in various workrooms across the country. ■
Blue print is a form of woodblock printing. Its roots are found in China, where natural indigo was first used to colour fabrics blue. In Czechia blue print material was first considered a luxury fabric for the upper classes, gained mass appeal during the 19th century, and was soon adopted in traditional folk costumes. Today there are only two active blue print workshops in Czechia and both are found in the east of Moravia. / Apron and pants, design Alice Klouzkovรก 132
Small glass pearl beads were and continue to be made mostly in Czechiaâ€™s JizerskĂŠ hory [Jizera Mountains]. In small glass factories thin rods are pulled from molten glass and cut, ground and formed into small glass pearl beads. These are then used in a very precise and challenging crochet technique in which the little glass pearls are fastened on clutches, jewellery or brooches as embellishments. / Necklace and bracelet, design Alice KlouzkovĂĄ
The Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague cordially invites you to the exhibition:
Heritage. Tradition, innovation, fashion n by Alice Klouzková Gallery UM 9. 11. – 10. 12. 2016 The opening: 8th November 2016 at 6 pm Gallery UM, nám. Jana Palacha 80, Prague 1 Open: Mon – Sat 10 am – 6 pm, entry free umprum.cz
CR EAT I V E PEO PL E Craft Brewery Clock
THE TAST E O F C ZEC H G O L D text: Patrik Florián | styling: SOFFA | photo: Adéla Havelková
THE FIRST BREWING HOUSE IN CZECHIA OPENED ITS DOORS MORE THAN A THOUSAND YEARS AGO. SURPRISINGLY, NOT MUCH HAS CHANGED IN THE BREWING PROCESS SINCE THOSE DAYS: WATER, MALT, HOPS AND YEAST ARE ALL A GOOD BEER NEEDS. YET, EVERY BEER TASTES SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT. WHAT IS THAT SPECIAL INGREDIENT THAT MAKES THE UNIQUE FLAVOUR OF EACH BEER? THE BREWER! To learn more about ‘Czech gold’ we headed for the village of Potštejn in the Karlovy Vary [Carlsbad] region, home to the craft brewery CLOCK. Founded by Jiří Andrš and his brewer friend Jakub Sychra, the brewery has fulfilled a lifelong dream for the two friends. Instead of cooking up the home brew in a big pot, as they used to do, the two friends now create new flavours of lager, top fermented British style pale ales, and other types of beer twice or even three times per month. Thanks to a combination of latest technologies, carefully selected ingredients and the brewers’ love for their craft, the beer from Potštejn has become a favourite not only in Czechia and Central Europe, but also overseas. The proof is bottled in their prized beer trophies. HOW DO YOU BREW SUCH PRIZED BEER? The key ingredient is sprouted cereal grain, most often barley, which is dried under specific temperatures to create malt. Grains like barley ►
Each beer from the CLOCK craft brewery has its own story and label. Whether created to welcome a new member of the family, or as a special blend with cocoa beans or fresh raspberries, each new beer gets its original illustration, and with each bottle expands the brewery’s original collection.
contain starch, a source of sugars, which transform into alcohol and carbon dioxide through the brewing process. In the brewing vat water is mixed with malt and later with hops. The beer then travels from the vat into stainless steel tanks for primary fermentation. The last step of the beer making process is resting, or maturation, which can take from a few weeks to whole years. It is similar to the maturation of wine - real magic! The final key ingredient in the brewing process is the brewer - the master magician who endows the beer with its distinctive colour, strength, bitterness and taste. You can prove for yourself that the CLOCK brewery is run by true brewing masters, and how else but by savouring a pint of their fresh cold beer. You can sample from their tried and tested Czech classic – the unfiltered 10° named Hektor. During the summer you should try the wheat beer Goldie, which is very soft on the palate and carries the scent of cloves and bananas. And you should definitely not miss the CLOCK American Pale Ale 12°, named after the prize-winning brewery, as well as other seasonal specialties! For more information and a truly refreshing taste visit: Pivovar CLOCK, Školní 2, Potštejn, 51743 www.pivovarclock.cz ■
PREVIOUS PAGES: Next to the modern interior you will find a lovely patio, where you can enjoy a cool bitter pint after your wanderings around Potštejn – home to orchards, meadows, forests and even a castle. The CLOCK brewery works with young creatives who design a unique robotic image for each new beer variety. The robotic images complement perfectly the metal vats, which you can see for yourself during your visit to the brewery.
THE COLOUR OF BEER BEER COMES IN A WIDE RANGE OF COLOURS, FROM A RICH GOLDEN YELLOW, TO A DEEP AMBER, TO AN OPAQUE BLACK REMINISCENT OF A DARK ABYSS. THE SOFFA TEAM GOT SO EXCITED BY THE CLOCK CRAFT BREWERY ARTICLE THAT WE DECIDED TO SHOW YOU THE SRM COLOURS OF NINE STANDARD BEERS. SRM – OR THE STANDARD REFERENCE METHOD – IS A SCALE USED BY MODERN BREWERS TO SPECIFY BEER COLOUR. THE FULL SRM SCALE GOES FROM 1 TO 40 AND IS A GOOD INDICATOR OF HOW LIGHT OR DARK A BEER IS.
PALE ALE G2.40.83
WHEAT BEER E4.54.65
GOLDEN ALE C7.49.50
DARK ALE C7.68.38
IMPERIAL STOUT E8.12.31
To help you identify the colour of your favourite beer we used the Dulux colour palette. You can find the colours based on their numbers at: www.dulux.com
S O F FA & VO LVO Pavel ÄŒernoch
WITH O PER AT I C G R AC E partner for the article: Volvo Car Czech Republic | text: Tereza Škoulová styling: SOFFA | photo: Adéla Havelková
THE CHARISMATIC TENOR PAVEL ČERNOCH DIVIDES HIS TIME BETWEEN THE WORLD OF OPERA AND THE WORLD OF BUSINESS. AS AN ARTIST AND AN ENTREPRENEUR HE IS ACCUSTOMED TO ALWAYS BEING ON THE MOVE, A NEW PLACE HERE, A NEW ROLE THERE.
IN ALL ASPECTS OF HIS PROFESSIONAL LIFE HE MUST KNOW HOW TO PERFECTLY MANAGE HIS EMOTIONS DOWN TO THEIR ELEMENTAL FORM. IN HIS PERSONAL LIFE HE SEEKS TRANQUILITY, BEAUTY, LUXURY AND ALL THINGS THAT MAKE HIS LIFE A LITTLE EASIER. THAT IS WHY HE VALUES GREAT COMPANY, BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS, EXCELLENT FOOD —AND A COMFORTABLE AUTOMOBILE. When speaking about opera, Pavel Černoch mentions mostly practical matters: in two months he begins work on a new production with Dmitri Tcherniakov, one of the world’s most famous theatre directors, and he has not yet seen the music. In recent seasons he has had successful debuts at leading opera houses around the world—Berlin, Paris, Milan, Moscow, St. Petersburg. Opera is a profession of no restraints, and to convey raw emotion on stage, an opera singer must be something of an exhibitionist. He must be able to handle a wide rage of situations, like hysterical directors, difficulties with a scene or competing demands from the conductor and producer. He must be dominant to shine during a performance yet submissive to take the director’s lead during rehearsals. Pavel Černoch knows what it is like when the set collapses, the opera singer catches on fire, or when breaks don’t work in a scene and the star ends up in the orchestra pit. Pavel’s lifestyle doesn’t allow him to slow down, even for a moment. Constantly on the road, he needs a very comfortable set of wheels so he can easily drive hundreds of kilometres and not compromise his stage performance. For similar reasons he enjoys total silence. When he daydreams, he imagines a future where he will be driven by a selfdriving automobile and rather than watching the traffic he will be able to study or read. ►
Pavel Černoch’s life is guided by emotions; they connect his two worlds of music and business. While in his professional life it is essential that he control his emotions and be able to play them and use them rationally, in his private life the artist savours emotions. Beauty, luxury and comfort are not simply superficial ideals—they give our life a wholly satisfying dimension. Pavel Černoch knows how to appreciate these qualities and is not ashamed for knowing how to enjoy them. For more information about Pavel Černoch and his performances go to www.pavelcernoch.cz ■
We thank Barrandov Studio for the photo shoot location.
PHOTO DESCRIPTIONS: The luxury limousine Volvo S90 is designed with the discerning driver in mind. The roomy interior is light and airy and features beautifully crafted materials—leather, wood and chrome. The impressive drive system ensures a very comfortable ride, and on the highway you have the impression that you are not driving on the road but levitating above it. The S90 handles corners like it’s on rails and even the basic model comes with advanced semi-automatic driving technology. When overtaking, the S90 monitors its blind spot, breaks automatically to avoid collision, and keeps itself firmly on the road. Just as music is important to an opera singer, sound too is important in the Volvo. When riding in the S90 one experiences unusual quiet, accompanied only by the gentle swish of air. Those who like to listen to music in their car can enjoy the Bowers & Wilkins audio-system, able to produce the sound experience of a concert hall. Equally important is the aspect of beauty. As Volvo’s chief designer Thomas Ingenlath likes to say, Swedish luxury is rooted in beauty and simplicity! For more information go to www.volvocars.cz
T RUF F L E H UN T SOFFA & La Collezione
BU R IE D T R EA S U R ES partner for the article: La Collezione | text: Helena Stiessová photo: Ondřej Tůma / La Collezione archives
THEIR AROMA IS UNPARALLELED. TRUFFLES, THE INCONSPICUOUS, ODDLY SHAPED FUNGI THAT GROW UNDERGROUND AND FASCINATE FOOD AFICIONADOS THE WORLD OVER. WE WENT IN SEARCH OF TRUFFLES WITH THE CHEF AND OWNER OF THE RESTAURANT AROMI, LOCATED IN PRAGUE’S VINOHRADY NEIGHBOURHOOD. Riccardo Lucque moved to Prague in 2002 and brought with him a piece of his native Italy. His restaurant Aromi invites guests to a table resplendent with the flavours and scents of the world-renowned Italian cuisine. An inseparable part of Ricardo’s kitchen are truffles, tartufo in Italian, the whimsically shaped fungi that mysteriously grow deep underground. Riccardo explains that truffles are grouped into four main types and can be found throughout most of the year. The Summer White Truffle can be collected from early spring to the end of summer. Autumn sees the arrival of the Black Burgundy Truffle, the Périgord Truffle, and the start of the season for the Winter White Truffle, the rarest and most expensive truffle. Riccardo has fond childhood memories of his father bringing tartufo bianco [white truffles] home every October and their intense aroma filling the entire home. For an Italian chef there is no greater culinary treasure. ► LEFT: Molly and Bruno head out for the hunt. When Molly or another trained hound finds the hidden delicacy, they get a special reward. The truffle travels to a factory where it is cleansed, sorted and partially processed.
Originating in southern Europe, truffles have been known to people for thousands of years. But while the common French farmer included the truffle in the domestic diet hundreds of years ago, it began to appear on the aristocratic table only during the Renaissance period. Over time the aromatic fungi became a sensation and in the 19th century it was declared the ‘diamond of the kitchen’ by the French gourmet Brillat-Savarin. At Aromi we tried an Italian delicacy known as scorzone [tree bark], a summer truffle with a wrinkly texture resembling the bark of a tree. The truffle comes from Umbria, the home of Riccardo’s supplier Carlo Caporicci. And that’s where Ricardo’s Prague team headed at the beginning of September to experience a hunt for the most exquisite of fungi. Perhaps not surprisingly, the most important role in the hunt did not fall to the very experienced ‘hunter’ Bruno, but to his white labrador Molly, who has a refined and highly trained nose to lead her master to the buried treasures. Once uprooted, most truffles travel to all corners of the globe, where throngs of expectant gourmets eagerly await. The latest trend is to use the peel that surrounds the fruit body, which used to be removed in the past, and this prevents waste of the precious truffle. If this story about truffles has got your taste buds excited, try Ricardo’s recipe found in this issue of SOFFA, or for a truly divine truffle experience, head directly over to Aromi! ■
RIGHT: Wild truffles need specific soil chemistry and particular types of deciduous trees. The 19th and 20th centuries saw successful attempts to grow truffles commercially, but production was halted by the two world wars. Today the tradition of growing black truffles is coming back, but production numbers are not yet as they were.
TAGL IATE L L E W I T H TA R F UF O N ERO recipe: Riccardo Lucque, restaurant Aromi / La Collezione text: Helena Stiessová | styling: SOFFA | photo: Adéla Havelková
IF THE ARTICLE ABOUT HUNTING FOR TRUFFLES HAS LEFT YOU FEELING HUNGRY FOR THIS DELICACY, YOU HAVE BUT TWO CHOICES: VISIT THE RESTAURANT AROMI, WHERE YOU WILL BE SERVED DELECTABLE FOOD WITH TRUFFLES, OR TRY THIS DELICIOUS RECIPE FROM AROMI’S HEAD CHEF IN THE COMFORT OF YOUR OWN KITCHEN! TIME: 30 min DIFFICULTY: medium INGREDIENTS: 10g butter 1 black summer truffle, tartufo nero stock concentrate Pistacchio di Bronte [Sicilian variety of pistachios] FOR THE TAGLIATELLE: 250g finely ground wheat flour 150g semolina 2 eggs
METHOD: Put a generous dollop of butter into a pot and shave the black truffle on top. Let the butter warm gently until it is lightly brown in colour and gives off a nutty smell. Add a tablespoon of concentrated stock to create an emulsion. In a separate pot cook the tagliatelle in salted water. Toss the cooked tagliatelle with the truffle mixture. Serve in a deep dish sprinkled with shavings of a fresh black truffle and toasted chopped pistachios. For more information go to www.lacollezione.cz ■
Š KO DA KO D IAQ AT DES I G N B LO K 1 6 photo: Škoda archive
AT THIS YEAR’S DESIGNBLOK, WHICH TAKES PLACE FROM 27. – 31. 10. 2016, DON’T MISS THE OPPORTUNITY TO WITNESS THE CZECH LAUNCH OF THE NEW ŠKODA KODIAQ. The new KODIAQ SUV is the giant bear of the ŠKODA carmaker’s workshop. Sporting a wide grille, athletically formed doors, and crystalline rear lights and contoured headlights inspired by traditional Czech crystal, the KODIAQ brings dynamic design into the SUV line-up.
With the KODIAQ, ŠKODA’s chief designer Jozef Kabaň continues his mission to bring traditional symbols of Czech craftsmanship to the popular carmaker’s range. In designing the KODIAQ Kabaň was inspired not only by the artistry of Czech glassblowers, but also by Czech Cubism. The result is evident in the perfect interplay of light and shade on the strongly contoured lines of the SUV. The KODIAQ will win you over with more than just its clean design. The car impresses with its roomy interior that can carry up to seven passengers in comfort, unrivalled 2,065 litre boot space, and the most modern of assistance driving systems. With its infotainment solution and internet connectivity, the KODIAQ shows what it means to be always online. ■
SOFFA & NIKE CHALLENGE text: Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk | photo: Julie Orlow, Majda Šmídová, Ondřej Lipár
n With every new issue of SOFFA we like to reflect on what we have been doing while producing our original and exciting content. This time, inspired by the Sport issue SOFFA 16, we have been physically active in between shoots and productions, spending time outdoors or in our new SOFFA space to practice what we have learnt from four very knowledgeable Nike trainers. Our Nike workshops may have come to an end but our enthusiasm for sport and all things fitness is still fully charged. It has been fantastic for the whole team to keep moving while learning from Nike, and the challenge has helped us to get to know each other better while having great fun. We want to thank the NIKE + RUN CLUB and NIKE + TRAINING CLUB for this super energising challenge! If you missed reading about it, you can find all the information on our blog or in mini issue 16: www.soffamag.com.
Adéla Kudrnová I editor in chief firstname.lastname@example.org Lenka Hlaváčová I art director & designer email@example.com Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk I creative editor firstname.lastname@example.org Lina Németh I photographer email@example.com Adéla Havelková I photographer & graphic designer firstname.lastname@example.org Helena Novotná I editor & distribution manager email@example.com Patrik Florián I editor & fashion stylist firstname.lastname@example.org Aleksandra Sidorina I production manager & make-up artist email@example.com Max Smrčka I production manager firstname.lastname@example.org Terézia Bělčáková I marketing & PR email@example.com Naďa Fidrmucová I marketing & PR firstname.lastname@example.org Miro Čenger I marketing & PR email@example.com
Martin Sova | editor Helena Stiessová | editor Tereza Škoulová | editor Lukáš Paderta | editor & stylist Zdeněk Vacek | designer Daniel Pošta | designer Alžběta Jungrová | photographer Michaela Karásek Čejková | photographer Ladislav Babuščák | photographer Tereza Menclová | photographer Matěj Šmucr | photographer Nina Schulze | illustrator Janka Murínová | stylist Tomáš Koblása | hair
Ingrid Martonova I English translation Peter Stannard I English revision & proofreading
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PUBLISHER SOFFA, s.r.o. Drtinova 557/10 150 00 Praha 5 www.soffamag.com IČ: 03055671 / DIČ: CZ03055671 registration: MK ČR E 21947, ISSN 2336-5943 Volume 17 published on 10 October 2016
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