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From Farm to Table Building local infrastructure to support local food R owa n J ac o b s e n
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stepped into a dusty barn in rural Vermont and shook hands with Peter Roscini Colman, who pulled up a trapdoor and led me down to the barn’s dark basement. I could just make out, hanging in a mesh cage attached to the wall, a handful of lumpy polygons covered in white (and not-so-white) molds. The air was thick with floral, funky, animal scents. Pete opened the cage and removed the hunks of raw meat that had been slowly desiccating in the fly-proof cage for months. We went back upstairs to a little apartment he had renovated in one corner of the barn, where he sliced paper-thin shavings o= the blocks. There was prosciutto, coppa, guanciale, lonza, all exuding a vibe of porky seduction. Pete, whose father is Italian, had lived in Italy for his first three years. In his teens, he began spending summers with his grandparents in a small town in Perugia. “I used to like to eat prosciutto a lot before lunch,” he told me. “You know, the pasta’s almost done,
right:
The Mad River Food Hub lies nestled in the Mad River
Valley, in Waitsfield, Vermont.
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