Where Los Angeles, December 2018

deceMber 2018 SoCalPulSe.Com

los angeles

Because you’ve arrived glam and gourmet gifts must-visit art galleries chic boutiques at palisades village

Festive Fantasy Make Merry with a host of holiday happenings across los angeles

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where

los angeles December 2018 the holiday gift issue

COntents

departments

the guide

6 Hot Dates

56 Dining Notable restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

L.A. may not see snowfall, but the county offers enough ice skating, festive light shows, holiday markets and live entertainment to keep your days merry and bright.

67 Entertainment Special events, performing arts and sports 70 Attractions Theme parks, activities, studio tours, museums and more

88 30 Things We Love Little luxuries and holiday happenings have our hearts full this December.

76 shopping The county’s major retail destinations

where now

78 SPAS Havens for pampering and beauty

80 NIGHTLIFE Hot bars and cool clubs

8 Shopping

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81 BEACHES Sandy stops along L.A.’s coastline

Simone’s sunflower panna cotta dessert

82 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around and getting to know Los Angeles

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Descanso Gardens’ Enchanted: Forest of Light

10 Arts + Culture Whether your taste in art is quirky or classic, check out these galleries’ must-see shows this month to score the perfect one-of-a-kind piece for your collection.

City Tours 24 Beverly Hills 28 Santa Monica 32 West Hollywood 36 Hollywood 40 Downtown 44 Pasadena 48 The Valley 50 South Bay

features

ON THE COVER A lantern display at the L.A. Arboretum’s new Moonlight Forest. See p. 6.

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12 Present Moment Holiday shopping, solved: We’ve hunted down haute home decor, beautiful baubles, foodie goodies and L.A.-centric books that will make perfect gifts for everyone on your list. By Marina Kay

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18 Delicious Interiors A new wave of Los Angeles restaurants boast eclectic design elements—from art deco accents to murals by renowned street artists— that perfectly complement their innovative cuisine. by roger grody

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Copyright © 2018

where Los Angeles

From top: rob stark; "Aqueous" by Jen Lewin on the Luminous Lawn © Cal Bingham

Designer Natalie Martin opens her first flagship, where you’ll find the dresses that have made her label a celebrity favorite.

In Pacific Palisades, Rick Caruso’s idyllic new Palisades Village boasts more than 40 retailers, including the first L.A. locations for a multitude of unique, female-founded brands.

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WESTFIELD CENTURY CIT Y LOS ANGELES 310.919.5557

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WHERE CALENDAR

HOT DATES December 2018

LET’S DO THIS

Because we just want to have fun IN DECEMBER Love Actually Live Dec. 4-31

For the Record brings the beloved British holiday rom-com to life at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts. p. 67

Echo Park Craft Fair Dec. 8-9

This biannual market at Mack Sennett Studios attracts savvy shoppers hunting for unique gifts made by talented local artisans. p. 67

Manhattan Beach Holiday Fireworks Dec. 9

At this South Bay celebration, kids can play in real snow before the sky lights up over the pier. p. 67

All month

Walking in a Winter Wonderland Get in the holiday spirit with these delightful light shows. Every year, L.A. Zoo Lights pays homage to the zoo’s animal residents through dazzling displays.

Meet real reindeer, then stroll through a disco-ball forest, a twinkling tunnel and more (p. 72). Descanso Gardens offers its own holiday-lights fun. Enchanted:

Forest of Light is an interactive nighttime experience that takes you on a 1-mile walk through the gardens’ most beloved areas (p. 70).

On-site restaurant Maple branches out from brunch for dinner during the event.

For the first time, the Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden is hosting Moonlight Forest (pictured

right). See the garden in a new light with over 60 displays of larger-than-life lantern art handcrafted by skilled artisans (p. 72).

And for a coastal excursion, head to Burton Chace Park to watch the Marina del Rey Holiday Boat Parade, where decorated boats set sail after a fireworks show on Dec. 8 (p. 67).

HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Check out our Weekend Roundup at socalpulse.com for the up-to-the-minute lowdown on the coolest concerts, plays, sporting events, festivals, art exhibitions and restaurants.

L.A. County Holiday Celebration Dec. 24

This free 59th-annual show returns to Dorothy Chandler Pavilion with bands and choirs who honor L.A.’s many cultures. p. 68

New Year’s Eve: Past & Present Dec. 31

The Queen Mary welcomes 2019 with live music, dancers, fireworks and a hidden speakeasy. p. 72

Prohibition NYE Dec. 31

Union Station travels back in time to the Roaring ’20s with this fabulous fete. prohibitionnye.com

Ice at Santa Monica All month

This huge outdoor skating rink lets you whirl and twirl on the ice, then head to the ocean just steps away. p. 67

FROM TOP: REED HUTCHINSON/LOS ANGELES BALLET; TIANYU ARTS & CULTURE

DEC. 1-24 VISIONS OF SUGAR PLUMS Ballet companies take on Tchaikovsky’s wonderfully wintry work The Nutcracker all across L.A. this month. Three of our faves: The Los Angeles Ballet performs a version with a SoCal spin—it’s set in 1912 L.A.—at four local venues (pictured above). The Music Center hosts George Balanchine’s The Nutcracker by Miami City Ballet at Dorothy Chandler Pavilion from Dec. 1-2. Set to Balanchine’s iconic choreography, the show features student dancers from two L.A. arts academies. And, lastly, American Contemporary Ballet offers an immersive Nutcracker Suite experience set high above the city in a downtown skyscraper. pp. 67-68

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LOS ANGELES

B E V E R L Y

C E N T E R Shop the best in luxury, contemporary and fast-fashion favorites and dine out at one of our chef-driven restaurants or fast-casual eateries.

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WHERE NOW The best in shopping and arts + culture

SHOPPING

Easy Does It Australia-born, L.A.-based designer Natalie Martin (below) launched her namesake clothing collection in 2011, drawing inspiration from Balinese textiles. Steadily and organically, her hand-batik-printed dresses and separates grew a devout fan base, and the brand opened its first flagship this fall (pictured left). “I really took my time,” Martin says. “It was important to create a space that reflected both my personal aesthetic and that of the brand as a whole”— meaning sun-drenched, bohoglam and, above all, easy. “The collection really is a reflection of my personal style, which is very relaxed. I like understated pieces that are multifunctional and can go from day to night,” says Martin, adding, “It’s also really important to me to have pieces that are size-inclusive and that all women can feel comfortable and attractive in.” Examples include the flowy, feminine, oft-sold-out Fiore maxi dress, spotted on Busy Philipps and Amy Adams, and the flattering Danika wrap, favored by Reese Witherspoon. The only challenge is picking a favorite. 804 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 424.335.0566, nataliemartincollection.com

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From left: Palisades Village; the Little Market

IT TAKES A VILLAGE

FROM LEFT: AVABLU.COM; COURTESY THE LITTLE MARKET. OPPOSITE: ASHLEY TURNER (2)

Palisades Village unites unique, women-led boutiques in one of the county’s prettiest coastal communities. by Suzanne Ennis Sandwiched between Santa Monica and Malibu, the Pacific Palisades has long been a choice neighborhood in which to live.

Now, thanks to the opening of Caruso’s Palisades Village this fall, it’s a shopping mecca, too.

Among the 125,000-square-foot mixed-use development’s offerings are more than 40 specialty and boutique retailers, including many “firsts” for coveted, female-founded and, in many cases, locally grown brands.

Stylist-turned-designer Andrea Lieberman, for example, chose Palisades Village for the first West Coast location of A.L.C. (424.644.6546), the contemporary ready-to-wear brand she launched in L.A. back in 2009. You’ll be wild about her animal-print separates and feminine yet modern dresses.

Another brand with its first West Coast store in the Village is Botanica Bazaar (424.268.7791), Bethany Mayer and Leilani Bishop’s Amagansett, N.Y.-based natural-beauty and wellness apothecary. Vintner’s Daughter and the Beauty Chef

are just two of the clean, cultfavorite product lines carried.

Shoppers can peruse more than 100 athleisure designers (e.g., Cushnie and Blanc Noir) and self-branded collections at the first permanent brick-andmortar location from Carbon38 (310.300.3806), an L.A.-based luxury activewear and lifestyle brand founded by two former ballerinas. The store also hosts weekly fitness classes where you can put those Carbon38 Takara leggings to the test.

The first-ever boutique from renowned L.A.-born-and-raised jewelry maker Jennifer Meyer (310.230.1271) is here, too. Diamond-dotted Good Luck charms, opal-inlay heart necklaces, modern tennis necklaces and more (including limited-edition store exclusives) sparkle against a blush backdrop.

Steps away, stop by the first brick-and-mortar shop from Rachel Zoe (424.225.2962).

The stylist, designer and television personality’s namesake clothing collection, vintage pieces and more await, as do

Zoe-trained stylists who will help you put it all together.

Killer shoes are essential to any outfit, and L.A.-based Tamara Mellon (424.210.7583) delivers at her first permanent physical store, opening Dec. 8.

According to the Jimmy Choo co-founder, her Italian-made footwear is designed for “leaning in, climbing ladders and shattering ceilings” (and looking fabulous, to boot).

Mommies have diamonds and designer duds; babies and kids have premium ethically made, supersoft and organic fashion basics from Mini Mioche (424.322.8093). The Palisades Village location is the first in the U.S. for the Canadian company, founded by Alyssa Kerbel a decade ago.

PALISADES VILLAGE Open daily 10 a.m.-9 p.m.

15225 Palisades Village Lane, Pacific Palisades, 310.525.1380, palisadesvillageca.com

Home gets love in the Village, too. St. Frank (424.268.7200), a buzzed-about luxury homedecor store from San Francisco, has its—you guessed it—first permanent L.A. outpost here.

Created by Christina Bryant, a 30-something Stanford MBA, St. Frank offers “sustainably sourced and produced home goods for the conscious millennial,” such as framed Senegalese textiles and handmade Juju hats.

Oprah and Nate Berkus aren’t millennials, but they’re reportedly fans.

Also mission-driven is The Little Market (424.266.4660), the first physical store from the nonprofit founded by philanthropist, author and fashion designer Lauren Conrad and social-justice activist Hannah Skvarla. The fair-trade shop empowers female artisans worldwide by bringing their handmade goods to socially conscious customers. Among its stylish finds are handmade tassel earrings from Cambodia and candles created by refugees resettled in Massachusetts.

You’ll also find Anine Bing, Cynthia Rowley, Paige, Towne

by ElyseWalker, Serena & Lily, Zimmermann and several other female-powered boutiques in tony Palisades Village, plus similarly compelling dining and entertainment options. Together, they make this compact community gathering place a worldclass destination.

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WHERE NOW / December

2018

GALLERY WALLS

Give yourself the gift of art this season at these five local galleries. by Teena Apeles

WITH GALLERIES CATERING TO EVERY type of art collector—from the budget shopper to the serious investor, including those with a penchant for the quirky and the provocative—Los Angeles is an art lover’s (and artist’s) dream destination.

And this season, there are a number of must-see shows where you’re bound to find that one-of-a-kind addition to your art collection.

FOR THE POST-IT LOVER Catch it while you can: Upward of 400 artists and 3,000 3-by-3-inch pieces of artwork comprise GR2 Gallery’s annual Post-it Show. From Dec. 1-9, GR2’s walls are covered in perhaps the most art you’ve ever seen packed in a gallery of its size, by some of the biggest names in the L.A. art scene. Do the names Matt Groening, Gary Baseman or Audrey Kawasaki ring a bell?

One fan calls the event “art for everyone.”

“People line up overnight, in some cases, four or five days, just to get to the front of the line,” says owner Eric Nakamura, who also operates the nearby Giant Robot Store, which is chock-full of wondrous gifts of all sizes. GR2 Gallery, 2062 Sawtelle Blvd., West L.A., 424.246.7626 and Giant Robot, 2015 Sawtelle Blvd., West L.A., 310.478.1819, giantrobot.com FOR THE COLLECTOR OF ALL MEDIA Welcome to America—the first U.S. solo show by art-world sensation Farshad Farzankia—is at the Richard Heller Gallery through Dec. 15. Based in Copenhagen, the artist works in various media, including installations and painted wood sculptures.

His large canvases and sculptures pop with color and are inspired by that which many of us hold so dear: memories of our youth and family. Richard Heller Gallery, 2525 Michigan Ave., B-5A, Santa Monica, 310.453.9191, richardhellergallery.com FOR MUSIC AFICIONADOS If photography is more your style, add the Mark Seliger: Photographs exhibit at

Fahey/Klein to your itinerary. Even if you don’t know his name, you’ve seen Seliger’s portraits of America’s most treasured icons: former President Barack Obama, Muhammad Ali and Johnny Cash, to name a few. Over the past 30-plus years, the photographer’s work has graced numerous magazine covers and advertisements. This month, pick up one of his limited-edition prints of music’s most enduring personalities: Cobain, LL Cool J, Bowie, Springsteen, Pavarotti and many more. Fahey/ Klein Gallery, 148 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.934.2250, faheykleingallery.com FOR THE BLUE-CHIP COLLECTOR If money is no object to you—we’re talking works in the tens of thousands to half a million dollars—the new Maddox Gallery Los Angeles knows just what you want. Banksy, Damien Hirst, Raphael Mazzucco, Mark Quinn, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Bradley Theodore are just some of the superstar artists whose work has been featured in the gallery’s massive 3,000-square-foot space. See Mazzucco’s work through Dec. 14, followed by the Winter Contemporary group show.

Don’t forget to pick up something for us!

Maddox Gallery Los Angeles, 8811 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.303.7664, maddoxgallery.com FOR THE WINDOW-SHOPPER If you’re “just looking,” then head to ICA LA. Since this is technically a museum, you can just look and dream—and what uplifting shows they have: California native B. Wurtz’s This Has No Name, a mixed-media exhibition that frames everyday materials in a remarkable and, at times, humorous way, and Nina Chanel Abney’s Royal Flush, featuring her vibrant and memorable figurative paintings. Don’t forget to stop at the gift shop, which carries various items as imaginative and varied as the art itself.

Institute of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles, 1717 E. 7th St., downtown, 213.928.0833, theicala.org

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2 (1) Inside Maddox Gallery (2) Post-its on display at GR2 Gallery (3) A photo of LL Cool J by Mark Seliger, on display at Fahey/Klein Gallery (4) Farshad Farzankia, Everything’s Everything, at Richard Heller Gallery (5) B. Wurtz’s This Has No Name exhibition at ICA LA in downtown Los Angeles

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1, WONHO FRANK LEE; 2, COURTESY ERIC NAK AMURA, GR2; 3, PHOTOGRAPH BY MARK SELIGER /COURTESY FAHEY/KLEIN GALLERY, LOS ANGELES; 4, COURTESY RICHARD HELLER GALLERY; 5, COURTESY ICA LA

ARTS + CULTURE

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1, WONHO FRANK LEE; 2, COURTESY ERIC NAK AMURA, GR2; 3, PHOTOGRAPH BY MARK SELIGER /COURTESY FAHEY/KLEIN GALLERY, LOS ANGELES; 4, COURTESY RICHARD HELLER GALLERY; 5, COURTESY ICA LA

UNDERWORLD Imagining the Afterlife

at the Getty Villa

October 31, 2018 – March 18, 2019

Get to know who’s who in the ancient Greek Underworld.

The Getty Villa. One mile north of Sunset on PCH. Reserve your free tickets today at getty.edu/villa.

Image: Funerary Vessel with an Underworld Scene (detail), South Italian, made in Apulia, 360–340 BC, attributed to the Circle of the Lycurgus Painter. Terracotta, 160 x 90 cm. National Archaeological Museum of Naples

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Los Angeles’ shopping scene is known for one-of-a-kind stores filled with goods that evoke the California lifestyle— that bohemian vibe, glitz, glamour and rock ’n’ roll—and offer something for everyone. With that in mind, we’ve rounded up can’tmiss gift ideas for everyone on your list.

Consider your holiday shopping sorted.

by Marina Kay

I

n a collaboration that stemmed from Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele’s love for his Yankees baseball hat, the high-end fashion brand has incorporated a mix of Major League Baseball teams into its fall/winter 2018 fashion-show collection. Sporting the L.A. Angels patch is a line of sporty apparel and accessories for men and women: sweatshirts, backpacks, original GG zip-around wallets, baseball hats, belt bags, messenger bags and jeans. Look for them in the brand’s store at the newly renovated Beverly Center. 8500 Beverly Blvd., Suite 743, L.A., 310.652.0375; additional locations at gucci.com Florist to the stars Eric Buterbaugh’s beautiful boutique

near the Grove is filled with flowers, fragrances and candles —a four-wick candle infused with soothing lavender offers 120 hours of “pure magical aura.” 8271 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.651.9844, ericbuterbaugh.com The newly made over Westfield Century City is a one-stop shop for luxe gifts. Tory Burch’s holiday collection includes some gorgeous options, including the Eleanor Shopper and Eleanor Clutch, which look like sophisticated silk bows folded into exquisite yet practical bags.

Other little luxuries will make for stylish stocking stuffers: bedazzled bear key fobs, a 2019 calendar with a brass holder and chic heart-and-bow earrings.

10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite

1505, L.A., 310.286.0310; additional locations at toryburch.com For the perfect personal gift, Monica Rich Kosann’s new boutique at Westfield Century City offers a wide variety of lovely 18-karat-gold and sterling-silver lockets. We love the petite bridle locket, infinity diamond locket and four “premier” diamond locket, which has space for four photos. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 1990, L.A., 310.919.5557, monicarichkosann.com The mall is also home to the newest location of Gorjana, whose jewelry reflects that effortless SoCal look of layered pendant necklaces, dainty bracelets and stackable delicate rings.

Top sellers include the Super Star Necklace, Laguna Adjust-

able Bracelet and Zen-inspired Power Gemstone Howlite Bracelet for Calming. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 1885, L.A., 424.303.7112; additional L.A. location at gorjana.com You can pay it forward by shopping at downtown L.A.’s The Giving Keys, where every product purchased supports job creation for people transitioning out of homelessness. The socially minded brand, which recently opened its first standalone boutique, sells bracelets, necklaces and earrings fashioned from keys engraved with inspiring words (“believe,” “create,” “love,” “strength”) that in turn make perfect gifts to inspire their wearers. 836 Traction Ave., downtown, thegivingkeys.com

clockwise from left: Courtesy Tory Burch; courtesy Monica Rich Kosann Westfield Century City; courtesy gorjana. opposite: courtesy the giving keys

Present moment

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The Giving Keys.

Opposite, clockwise from left: a Tory Burch key fob; a locket at Monica Rich Kosann; a bracelet from Gorjana

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Perfect for both the L.A. novice and aficionado, This Is (Not) L.A. debunks the myths and cliches about the City of Angels. Written by 20-year resident Jen Bilik with L.A. native Kate Sullivan, the book offers “an insider’s take on the real Los Angeles” and features a foreword by the late, great Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold, who writes: “When you live in Los Angeles, you are used to having your city explained to you by others, often by people who parachute in from out of town … the Los Angeles that most of us live in is a different beast entirely, a city of almost unimaginable diversity.” Available at local book and gift stores including Burro, 1409 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.6288; thisisnotla.com Another great new option for the L.A.-loving bibliophile is Dear Seller: Real Estate Love Letters From Los Angeles, whose pages are printed with photos of SoCal homes and letters from potential buyers, providing a personal perspective on the L.A. real estate market. (Dear Seller was edited by Where contributing writer Teena Apeles). Available at select stores around the city including Fred Segal Sunset, 8500 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 310.432.0560; narratedobjects.com And Bestia fans, take note: The beloved Arts District restaurant has released a cookbook, Bestia: Italian Recipes Created in the Heart of L.A., so you can cook up its wildly popular dishes yourself.

You’ll find it on the shelves at Book Soup. 8818 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.3110; bestiala.com For the music and movie buff in your life, visit landmark record store Amoeba Music before it relocates to a nearby location. Its expansive selection of CDs, vinyls, Blu-rays, turntables and posters is unbeatable. 6400 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.245.6400, amoeba.com

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ll of the products at the hip culinary retail shop TripliKit, located within Playa Provisions, are curated by Top Chef season 14 winner Brooke Williamson and her husband and co-owner, Nick Roberts. Find top options for the chef in your life (think grilling essentials and seed starter kits, pictured right).

And for the master mixologist: Jack Rudy’s Classic Tonic Syrup, Teroforma Whiskey Stones and W+P Design Moscow Mule Syrup. 119 Culver Blvd., Playa del Rey, 310.683.5019, triplikit.com A vast selection of gift boxes is available to satisfy the culinary connoisseur at food emporium Eataly, located inside Westfield Century City. Pick from themes like the Ultimate Olive Oil, Truffle Revelation and La Dolceria,

which is packed with sweets like blueberry candies, Pan di Stelle cookies, Quadratini wafers and milk-chocolate bars. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 213.310.8000, eataly.com Also perfect for chocolate lovers: the gift sets at L.A.-based boutique “chocolaterie” Milla Chocolates, founded by awardwinning chocolatier Christine Sull Sarioz, whose artful creations are known for their high-quality ingredients. Pick up a holiday box at the newly opened brick-andmortar shop—and don’t forget a Hazelnut Praliné Bar for yourself!

9414 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.876.1021, millachocolates.com Netflix’s Nailed It! guest judge and nationally acclaimed confectioner Valerie Gordon of Valerie Confections has whipped up a new batch of holiday sweets including delectable Eggnog Petits Fours made with nutmeg butter cake and layers of bourbon ganache—each hand-dipped in white chocolate and finished with Valrhona Opalys pearls and edible 23-karat gold leaf (pictured above left). She’s also

collaborated with L.A.-based fashion designer Clare V. on candy bars including the Croquant, which features 61 percent bittersweet chocolate, toasted brown rice and fleur de sel zapped with cracked black pepper. Order ahead, then pick up your goodies at her Valerie Echo Park café. 1665 Echo Park Ave., L.A., 888.706.1408; additional locations at valerieconfections.com And, of course, the festive holiday season wouldn’t be complete without excellent wine. Cornell Winery & Tasting Room sources local bottles from cities between Monterey and L.A. The 2013 Hoyt Family Vineyards Chardonnay, 2010 Colcanyon Estate Wines Merlot and 2014 Malibu Vineyards Syrah make perfect hostess gifts.

29975 Mulholland Hwy., Cornell, 818.735.3542, cornellwinery.com

clockwise from top left: courtesy Knock Knock; courtesy eataly; courtesy modern sprout; courtesy Valerie Confections; nicole franzen

The Ultimate Olive Oil gift box at Eataly at Westfield Century City

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HH_Wh

SHOPPING SHOPPING DINING DINING NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY KNOCK KNOCK; COURTESY EATALY; COURTESY MODERN SPROUT; COURTESY VALERIE CONFECTIONS; NICOLE FRANZEN

Visit Visit some some of of the the most most famous famous landmarks landmarks of of the the entertainment entertainment industry industry as as you you stroll stroll along along the the Walk Walk of of Fame, Fame, view view the the Hollywood Hollywood Sign, Sign, or or get get aa behind behind the the scenes scenes tour tour of of the the Dolby Dolby Theatre Theatre –– home home of of the the Academy Academy Awards Awards®®.. Shop Shop at at more more than than 30 30 stores, stores, take take aa break break at at one one of of more more than than 20 20 great great places places to to eat eat like like Hard Hard Rock Rock Cafe, Cafe, California California Pizza Pizza Kitchen Kitchen or or the the new new JAPAN JAPAN HOUSE HOUSE Inn Inn Ann Ann Restaurant.

Restaurant. Then Then end end your your day day visit visit with with some some fun fun at at Dave Dave && Buster’s, Buster’s, Lucky Lucky Strike Strike Live Live or or TCL TCL Chinese Chinese Theatres.

Theatres.

FEEL FEEL LIKE LIKEAA CELEBRITY CELEBRITYAS ASYOU YOU SHOP, SHOP,DINE DINEAND AND HAVE HAVE FUN FUN WITH WITH EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS. DISCOUNTS.SHOW SHOWTHIS THISAD ADAND AND RECEIVE RECEIVE AA FREE FREEVIP VIPACCESS ACCESS CARD CARDAT ATTHE THE L.A. L.A.VISITOR’S VISITOR’S CENTER CENTER LOCATED LOCATED ON ON LEVEL LEVEL 22 NEXT NEXTTO TOTHE THE DOLBY DOLBYTHEATRE. THEATRE.

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nspired by Southern California’s weather and outdoor living, Bauer Pottery Company turns out vibrant home and garden wares—flowerpots, garden orbs, oil jars—from its Los Angeles showroom, where you’ll also find American Modern Russel Wright dinner and serving sets in trademark curvy silhouettes. Look out for pop-art-style mugs and tiles designed by the late artist Corita Kent, too. Open Fridays and select December weekends. 3051 Rosslyn St., L.A., 909.425.5700, bauerpottery.com Head over to Heath Ceramics for a display of California cool. The brand’s Clay Studio produces simple and beautiful bud vases, flatware and bowls, sold alongside winter seasonal products including cookbooks, cocktail sets, pitchers, totes

and tea towels. 7525 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.965.0800, heathceramics.com Lovers of simple and contemporary tableware will enjoy browsing Tortoise Hasami Porcelain Store for its sleek planters, bowls and coffee accessories.

The goods are designed on-site in Venice by owner Takuhiro Shinomoto and then made in Hasami, Nagasaki, one of Japan’s foremost pottery districts. 12705 Venice Blvd., L.A., 310.396.7335, tortoiselife.com After dining at chef Travis Lett’s Venice dining destinations Gjelina (p. 60), deli/bakery/ café Gjusta or MTN (p. 59), you might be inspired to curate your own restaurant-themed interior.

Luckily, Gjusta Goods carries the ceramic collections—bowls, mugs and plates handmade by three artists in Los Angeles and Japan—used in those spaces. You’ll also find locally

made pillows, duvets, napkins and place mats, plus gift sets that offer curated experiences like “morning” or “coffee.” 324 Sunset Ave., Venice, 310.314.0320, gjustagoods.com And for the perfect home accents, budding artists or art collectors will appreciate the Getty Center’s exquisite Murano glass birds, made using a historic lampworking technique by a master glass artisan on the Italian island. Also available from Murano are glass fruits brushed with an 18-karat-gold patina wash, and colorful wine glasses that make a perfect addition to the holiday table. Tree decorations adorned with van Gogh’s Irises and 100 percent silk scarves inspired by the museum’s art collections are good choices for culture vultures, too. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300, getty.edu Above left and below: Home accents from Heath Ceramics. Above right: Glassware at Gjusta Goods

At Detox Market, you’ll find a plethora of organic skin care, natural makeup and green household products. Ask about Osea Malibu, whose nontoxic, vegan skin care products are created from a potent base of sustainably sourced organic Patagonian seaweed. The locally based, family-owned brand produces a bunch of best-sellers—the Ocean Cleanser, Hyaluronic Sea Serum and age-defying Advanced Protection Cream, to name a few— and has its share of celeb fans.

1231 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.260.0017; additional locations at thedetoxmarket.com Over in DTLA’s Arts District, men’s store Wittmore stocks U.S.-made Ursa Major products.

The brand’s shave creams, devoid of unhealthy chemicals, are infused with natural ingredients like sunflower seed, willow-bark extract and sea fennel. The Yards at One Santa Fe, 300 S. Santa Fe Ave., Suite X, downtown, 213.626.0780; additional L.A. location at shopwittmore.com Nearby, Row DTLA is home to Scent Bar, where the shelves are lined with unique candles and niche perfumes. Sniff out your new favorite scents in a social, friendly atmosphere—buy a gift for a loved one, and perhaps a bottle of perfume for yourself.

777 S. Alameda St., downtown, 213.395.0023; additional L.A. location at luckyscent.com/scentbar

clockwise from top left: courtesy heath l.a.; Ashley Randall Photography; courtesy Scent Bar Los Angeles; courtesy osea; courtesy heath L.a.

From left: Osea Malibu’s Ocean Cleanser; a Diptyque Paris gift set, available at Scent Bar

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY HEATH L.A.; ASHLEY RANDALL PHOTOGRAPHY; COURTESY SCENT BAR LOS ANGELES; COURTESY OSEA; COURTESY HEATH L.A.

DELICIOUS INTERIORS FROM BOLD STREET ART TO ART DECO ELEMENTS, RESTAURANT DESIGN IN L.A. IS AS ECLECTIC AS THE CITY ITSELF. BY ROGER GRODY 18 SOCALPULSE.COM

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The Italianate mural at Rossoblu. Below: A dish at Viale dei Romani

NVIRONMENT CAN HAVE A profound effect on how a meal is perceived and remembered, which is why a stale croissant on Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris seems more delicious than a near-perfect croissant on Melrose Avenue. Restaurant design is important enough that the James Beard Foundation has an entire category of awards dedicated to it.

As one of the bona fide creative capitals of the world, it’s no surprise that L.A. has its share of imaginative restaurant designs—some romantic, some whimsical, others edgy. The prime examples demonstrate how the physical environment of where you eat can be as meaningful as the menu.

In recent years, graffiti artists have moved from the streets to prestigious art galleries, where their bold expressions are appreciated by a sophisticated audience. Some of their work has been incorporated into local restaurants as well. At Majordomo, the L.A. venture of New York phenom chef/restaurateur David Chang, street art is a major component of the design.

Only Chang’s signature peach logo and some Japanese characters (which spell “Momofuku,” the name of his restaurant group) identify the entrance to Majordomo in a long-neglected corner of Chinatown. The dining room has an industrial vibe—raw concrete walls, exposed ducts, metal sash windows and factory-style lamps—but is warmed by walnut tables paired with blackened wood-and-leather chairs. On the shelves, containing some of Chang’s exotic fermented products from his New York lab, is Korean-inspired earthenware from potter Adam Field. A private room features a fanciful mural by James Jean, known for his work with Prada, as well as comic book and album covers.

Behind the bar, there is a colorful painting by street artist David Choe, who also painted a large mural facing the patio. Separated from the dining room by a wall of glass, with lights strung overhead, this may be the most inviting place to appreciate Chang’s talents. Start with bing (a fluffy Chinese flatbread grilled to order) with frozen foie gras finely shaved over ricotta cheese and plum jam, followed by black cod marinated in Hozon (the chef’s proprietary fermented chickpea seasoning), sake and mirin, or opt for a massive short rib that can feed six.

At Otoño, a lively Highland Park Spanish restaurant, street art has also been incorporated into the design through a floor-to-ceiling mural complementing the establishment’s marble cocktail/tapas bar. The work is by a pair of prominent street artists based in Valencia, Spain, who go by the name PichiAvo—chef/owner Teresa Montaño

fell in love with the coastal city recognized as the birthplace of paella and wanted her restaurant’s design to reflect its ethos.

Otoño occupies a 1928 building that originally housed an S.H. Kress & Co. five-and-dime store, and designer Ana Henton carved out a sleek contemporary restaurant without sacrificing some of the landmark’s best qualities. She retained the century-old brick, added some saffron-colored paint and applied decorative tin-stamped tiles to the walls. It’s the perfect setting for enjoying Montaño’s Spanish-meets-Los Angeles cuisine. Tapas at Otoño include creamy mushroom-corn croquetas, hand-cut jamón ibérico and blue prawns griddled with green garlic and Andalusian brandy. Making for a dramatic presentation is paella negra—its squid-ink-stained rice punctuated by ham-topped sea scallops and dollops of lemon aioli.

The street artists who collectively go by the name Cyrcle leave a profound imprint on the dining experience at Rossoblu, the acclaimed Fashion District Italian restaurant. Their Italianate mural reflects a fountain, evocative of Rome’s Fontana di Trevi, bursting from the wall with such a sense of motion you half expect a marble horse to crush your table, along with your bowl of the chef’s signature tagliatelle alla Bolognese. Designed by the Arts District-based architecture/design firm of Marwan Al Sayed, Rossoblu conveys a warmth typically absent from these converted industrial structures.

Rossoblu is located at City Market South, a reimagination of downtown’s oldest wholesale produce market. While the mural is the restaurant’s most memorable design element, chic pendant lamps hang from exposed rafters, and black marble counters surround an open kitchen with a formidable hood over the wood-burning grill. Cocktails like a well-crafted Negroni or a Campari-Lambrusco spritz are dispensed from a bar topped in richly striated golden-hued marble. The restaurant also offers a nice veranda overlooking a plaza shared

by Dama, a newly arrived Latin American bar and restaurant.

Another downtown restaurant with a space defined by art is Manuela, whose location inside the Arts District’s Hauser & Wirth gallery makes it a natural for masterpieces on both the walls and plate. The restaurant is flooded with significant contemporary works from artists like Paul McCarthy and Raymond Pettibon. Perhaps the most striking piece is a massive canvas from Mark Bradford that is an abstract map of his sprawling native Los Angeles.

Fusing industrial grit and L.A. chic, Manuela is softened by exposed brick, reclaimed wood and vintage furniture. A brass-inlaid white marble WHERE LOS ANGELES 19

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bar extends outside onto a breezy covered terrace with two giant salvaged light fixtures.

The Southern-influenced menu from chef Kris Tominaga lets you begin with killer cornbread or biscuits, move on to grilled venison with bacon vinaigrette, or diver scallops with Carolina rice middlins (grits), and finish with beignets.

One of the most anxiously awaited openings in recent years was that of Simone from chef Jessica Largey, who previously cooked at the Bay Area’s Michelin three-star Manresa.

The restaurant occupies a turn-of-the-century Arts District building, and while the prevailing style is industrial-chic, designer Deirdre Doherty has created distinct spaces—including a separate bar dubbed Duello and dining rooms with plentiful art deco accents. A sixseat chef’s counter offers a direct view into the kitchen, where Largey and her staff turn out burrata plated over tangy plum confit, maitake mushrooms drizzled in shallot-miso sauce and hoja santa-scented black cod.

Given its affiliation with neighbor Fred Segal on Sunset Boulevard, it’s natural for Tesse Restaurant to be fashionable. And with chef Raphael Francois, who earned Michelin stars in Paris and New York, running the kitchen, the cuisine is equally compelling. Francois is a master charcutier, so guests frequently

vibe, nothing compares to Tao Los Angeles, a New York transplant at Hollywood’s Dream hotel, designed by the Rockwell Group. There, a stunning 20-foot statue of Quan Yin, the goddess of mercy, rises from a koi pond to dominate a soaring dining room. Adding to the exotic scene is a menu featuring lobster wontons, Peking duck and miso-glazed black cod, washed down with premium sakes or lychee martinis.

On the Waterfront Cafe was part of the Venice Beach scene for almost a quartercentury until it shuttered last year. Thankfully, it was quickly snapped up by a partnership headed by real estate developer Jake Mathews and wife Heather Tierney, who reinvented it as The Waterfront. Tierney, who is also the founder of Wanderlust Design, created a modern boho vibe that pays homage to the heyday of the Venice Boardwalk in the ’70s but also suits the cosmopolitan community into which Venice has evolved.

In addition to the much-stereotyped bodybuilding and skateboarding it’s known for, Venice has always been home to a vibrant art scene, and the new owners collaborated with artists like Maxwell McMaster and Sofia Enriquez to showcase their talents. One of the challenges facing the community is how to accommodate gentrification without destroying the neighborhood’s colorful heritage, and here Tierney succeeds in threading that needle.

The indoor-outdoor restaurant features exposed ceiling trusses supporting colorful surfboards, while cushy lounge furniture and wicker lanterns introduce a fashionable brand of beachiness. The grittiness of the old Boardwalk establishment is largely gone, but the Waterfront retains the soul of the old place, with an updated menu that includes crudo, charcuterie, steaks, and fish and chips—and, of course, the Baja-style fish tacos the locals still crave.

SCENES TO BE SEEN Majordōmo 1725 Naud St., downtown, 323.545.4880, majordomo.la

Otoño 5715 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.474.6624, otonorestaurant.com

Manuela Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles, 907 E. 3rd St., downtown, 323.849.0480, manuela-la.com

Rossoblu p. 58 Simone (pictured right) 449 S. Hewitt St., downtown, 424.433.3000, simoneartsdistrict.com

Tao Los Angeles Dream Hollywood, 6421 Selma Ave., Hollywood, 323.593.7888, taolosangeles.com

Viale dei Romani La Peer Hotel, 627 N. La Peer Drive, West Hollywood, 310.691.1600, vialedeiromani.com

Tesse Restaurant/ Boutellier p. 58

The Waterfront 205 Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 424.309.5331, thewaterfrontvenice.com

FROM TOP: COURTESY OTOÑO; ROB STARK. OPENING SPREAD, FROM LEFT: ED ANDERSON; LONGRADA LOR

Otoño

begin with beautifully crafted terrines, pâtés and foie gras. Traditional dishes updated for a contemporary L.A. crowd include duck confit and steak frites, and among other choices are lobster sausage and blue crab “simplissime,” a dish he made famous at Le Cirque.

At Tesse, Alexis Readinger from the hospitality design firm Preen, Inc. paired sleek lines with polished wood and leather, evoking a hip ’70s California modern vibe. The bar is comprised of teak, copper and rainbow limestone, and a wide-open kitchen creates an emotional connection to the cooking process. The moderate SoCal climate also plays a role, as a glass garage door opens up to blur borders between inside and out. Sharing a retro concrete block wall with Tesse is Boutellier, a wine store and private dining room where bottles are stocked on cantilevered wood shelves and an 8-foot oculus sensually illuminates the proceedings.

Tucked into West Hollywood’s La Peer Hotel is Viale dei Romani, where prominent chef Casey Lane (the Tasting Kitchen, Breva) turns his attention to coastal Italian cuisine.

New York-based Parts and Labor Design, whose restaurant designs have been honored

by Architectural Digest and the James Beard Foundation, has created a chic blend of Hollywood and the Mediterranean.

The setting at Viale dei Romani is laid-back but features opulent elements; cushy gold banquettes line white-linen-clad tables illuminated by modern brass lighting fixtures suspended from a gilded coffered ceiling.

High-end finishes like marble, etched glass and velvet, along with both Hollywoodregency and midcentury-modern furnishings, give this restaurant a sumptuous feel. By sending out dishes like bigeye snapper crudo, tagliatelle with rabbit and sweetbreads, or branzino in three-lemon sauce, Lane enhances the experience.

For a dramatic, over-the-top Pacific Rim

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Celebrate the Holidays in Beverly Hills Join us this holiday season for spectacular lighting displays along the streets of Beverly Hills.

BOLD Holidays features evening shopping on Fridays and Saturdays, live entertainment, an immersive pop-up experience by Alexa Meade and more.

PLAN YOUR HOLIDAYS AT: LOVEBEVERLYHILLS.COM/BOLDBH #BOLDBH

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WHERE ABOUTS

MARVIN BRAUDE BIKE TRAIL, PHOTO BY BROWN CANNON III/INTERSECTION PHOTOS

Los Angeles is the most populous county in the nation and among the most culturally diverse. Its 4,000 square miles encompass dozens of cities and more than 200 neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. The pages that follow will guide you through the most visited among them, pointing out starring attractions and uncovering hidden gems along the way.

CIT Y TOURS 24 28 32 36 40 44 48 50

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

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THE MANSIONS

/ RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE / THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS / CENTURY CITY

BEVERLY HILLS It’s only 5 square miles, but Beverly Hills looms large in pop culture as a posh locale that’s home to some of the priciest mansions in L.A. County, not to mention the country’s most recognizable ZIP code. Rodeo Drive, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping street, offers virtually every luxury fashion brand.

THE MANSIONS The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the opening of the Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more socioeconomically diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest.

Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts famous and fabulously wealthy residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book with Starline Tours or Star Track Tours to see notable homes in the area, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Mansion, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Alexander McQueen and Stuart Weitzman recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding shoppers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the

Italian-esque side street to fineart destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive.

Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, which boasts dining concepts by chef Jean-Georges

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment businesses based here. Rub shoulders with the powerlunchers at E. Baldi, La Scala or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Cañon Drive. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Even more cultural programming can be found at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

CENTURY CITY Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.7-square-mile modern acropolis of Century

great find

OH, BABY Aldea Home & Baby wants to feather your nest with its stylish, sustainable and international wares for kids, home and garden.

The San Francisco emporium’s new location boasts over 475 brands, including Monte, Oeuf and French outdoor-furniture line Fermob, and assembles custom gift baskets that the whole family will love. 3825 Main St., Culver City, 310.202.1200, aldeahome.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY BEVERLY HILLS CONFERENCE AND VISITORS BUREAU; KIMBER BROWN. OPPOSITE: MATT HARTMAN

Vongerichten, and beside it, the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

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NEW IN TOWN Anthropologie & Co.

The classy chain opens its first L.A. outsize location at Westfield Century City, boasting an expanded selection and BHLDN and Terrain shops. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 323.421.7698

Ms Chi Café

Top Chef runner-up Shirley Chung’s first stand-alone restaurant serves all-day ChineseAmerican fare. 3829 Main St., Culver City, 424.361.5225

Pomellato

The Italian fine jeweler returns to Beverly Hills with a new flagship at Two Rodeo. 214 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.5639

Storefronts along North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.

Opposite, from left: Two Rodeo; a signpost at the intersection of luxury and commerce WHERE LOS ANGELES 25

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/ WESTWOOD VILLAGE / CULVER CITY

Platform in Culver City

City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are a Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which recently unveiled dozens of new boutiques and eateries after a dramatic redevelopment. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, the latter of which is in the residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country.

Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D.

Murphy Sculpture Garden on the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens. The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings, as well as cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE Just south of the campus, the pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with bars and restaurants including Italian spot AR Cucina and seasonal California restaurant the Wallace. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. As you travel east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms.

Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. Near the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is the ultra-hip Platform lifestyle complex, plus a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent expansion, connects downtown L.A. and Santa Monica.

Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose city seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios opened on Washington; in 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including Singin’ in the Rain and The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, and the site is home to Sony Pictures Studios, where such hits as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! are taped.

Experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.

WF O R BOLD I T E M S , S E E T H E W H E R E G U ID E . F O R A N E I G H B O R H O O D M A P, S E E PA G E 8 4 .

COS

insider tips

DAPPER DUDES Sartorially savvy men can shop sophisticated or sporty styles at these Beverly Hills stores.

Alexander McQueen 457 N. Rodeo Drive, 323.782.4983 AllSaints 328-330 N. Beverly Drive, 310.499.0970 COS 357 N. Beverly Drive, 310.734.3472 Dior Homme 315 N. Rodeo Drive, 310.247.8003 Dsquared2 461 N. Rodeo Drive, 310.888.0117 Hugo Boss 9600 Wilshire Blvd., 310.887.5555 Indochino 9407 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.550.4535 Timberland 316 N. Beverly Drive, 310.428.0092

FROM LEFT: BENNY CHAN; COURTESY COS

UCLA

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SPREAD THE JOY, FROM HEAD TO TOE

ANTHROPOLOGIE | BREITLING | COS NORDSTROM | THE CRACK SHACK | TORY BURCH PLUS OVER 180 STORES @WestfieldCenturyCity

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westfield.com/centurycity

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THIRD STREET + THE PIER

/ MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE / THE ARTS / MALIBU

SANTA MONICA THE ARTS Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s firstrate, 499-seat performing-arts, film, dance and theater venue.

On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center— now a stop on the Expo Line— has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to about 30 galleries and a café.

THIRD STREET + THE PIER Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, perpetually teems with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at two cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists.

If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to the Independence or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at The Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats.

Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the toplevel Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles.

Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V. and Malin+Goetz.

Father’s Office is known for its burgers, and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes.

Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe.

The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the aptly named Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

MALIBU A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrityhome central continues today.

great find

TIME TO SHINE Cosmetics-industry vet Kat James offers the best in skin care and makeup at Shine Beauty Collective, her new shop at Trancas Country Market. Dr. Barbara Sturm and SoHo House staple CowShed are among the selection of luxe and botanical-based brands, and services include makeup application and eyelash extensions. 30745-10B Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 424.644.0667, shinebeautycollective.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY SANTA MONICA PLACE; DALE BERMAN; COURTESY SHINE BEAUTY COLLECTIVE. OPPOSITE: BROWN CANNON III/INTERSECTION PHOTOS

In the 1800s, orator Tom Fitch called Santa Monica “the Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of Santa Monica fulfills its early promise, with a bustling downtown and beach that attract millions of visitors per year. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with draws such as Malibu and Marina del Rey.

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NEW IN TOWN Amazon Books

The online juggernaut’s brick-and-mortar at Palisades Village brings the online bookbrowsing experience to life. 1000 N. Swarthmore Ave., Pacific Palisades, 424.610.5464

The Gables

This sunny, stylish spot serves chic Westsiders all-day California cuisine steps from Third Street Promenade. 331 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 424.280.4470

The Waterfront

The revived On the Waterfront Cafe offers a patio, beer garden, lounge, taqueria and all-day dining on the Venice Boardwalk.

205 Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 424.309.5331

Santa Monica State Beach. Opposite, from left: Santa Monica Place’s Dining Deck; Abbot Kinney Boulevard WHERE LOS ANGELES 29

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/ VENICE / BRENTWOOD / MARINA DEL REY

The Getty Villa

Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square.

Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon.

Inland, nearing Calabasas, is wine country, where you can sample the local vino at tasting rooms such as Malibu Wines.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking

trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining.

There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park, and cafés and upscale mom-and-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

VENICE Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still

there, lined with multimilliondollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Bazar, Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose CaféRestaurant and Café Gratitude, plus a smattering of hip shops including Parachute and Monrow. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, what with performers, vendors and Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

BRENTWOOD Marilyn Monroe once called this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite celebrity stomping ground. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a charming open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings upscale.

The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that boasts J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection and a beautiful Central Garden.

MARINA DEL REY Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors assorted ways to get out on the water.

WF O R BOLD I T E M S , S E E T H E W H E R E G U I D E . F O R N E I G H B O R H O O D M A P S , S E E PA G E 8 4 .

Beaming

insider tips

GOOD FOR YOU Find delicious, nutritious health food at these Santa Monica spots.

Backyard Bowls 1317 7th St., 310.260.9935 Beaming 1426 Montana Ave., 310.299.7622 Bondi Harvest 1814 Berkeley St., 310.586.7419 EarthBar 1447 Ocean Ave., 310.260.0088 Everytable 1315 3rd St., 424.296.1619 Flower Child 1332 2nd St., 310.382.2901 The Hive 606 Broadway, 310.899.6298 SuperFood Cafe 530 Wilshire Blvd., 310.319.9100 Sweetgreen 1343 4th St., 424.744.8321 True Food Kitchen 395 Santa Monica Place, 310.593.8300

FROM LEFT: COURTESY GETTY VILLA; COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES

“

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SUNSET STRIP

/ SUNSET PLAZA / MELROSE AVENUE / WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT

WEST HOLLYWOOD

SUNSET STRIP After dark, this iconic strip of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Boulevard becomes one of the hottest stretches of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Newer nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase leading names and emerging stars in stand-up, and restaurants such as Estrella and Boa Steakhouse offer upscale fare. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic.

Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted

into the Tower Bar. And across the street, the property once known as “Riot Hyatt,” thanks to overzealous guests like Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones and Guns N’ Roses, is now the chic Andaz West Hollywood.

SUNSET PLAZA Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian

than Valley girl. For up-tothe-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/ Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington.

Then, refuel at Obicà Mozzarella Bar or Le Petit Four.

MELROSE AVENUE Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has mul-

tiple personalities. One part of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-block stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up at chic Nine Zero One salon and cutting-edge boutiques such as Irene Neuwirth, Mansur Gavriel and the Apartment by the Line.

WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its offerings are a new Acne Studios flagship and RH: The Gallery on Melrose Avenue. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex— monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—which

great find

DESIGNER TOUCH Visitors to the Kimpton La Peer Hotel can now bring the La Peer look home, thanks to a new on-site gallery curated by the hotel’s principal designer. Gulla Jónsdóttir Atelier showcases the designer’s furniture and exhibits works by a different Jónsdóttir-selected artist each month (Kahori Maki’s show is pictured here). 633 N. La Peer Drive, West Hollywood, 213.296.3038, gullajonsdottir.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; COURTESY OLE HENRIKSEN; COURTESY GULLA JÓNSDÓTTIR ATELIER. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

For a municipality measuring less than 2 square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a number of world-class art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike.

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NEW IN TOWN 40 Love

The H.Wood Group’s new tennis-themed oasis is more countryclub chic than typical neighborhood sports bar. 829 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.855.7221

Chateau Hanare

This intimate Japanese restaurant in a bungalow at the legendary Chateau Marmont offers a kaiseki-style menu. 8097 Selma Ave., L.A., 323.963.5269

Easy’s

Restaurateur Jeremy Fall is behind this modern diner counter serving elevated comfort food and cocktails on the sixth floor of the renovated Beverly Center. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 424.313.3458

The Grove.

Opposite, from left: Robertson Boulevard; Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa WHERE LOS ANGELES 33

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/ ROBERTSON BOULEVARD / FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE

The Petersen Automotive Museum

houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners and contains a satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing and accessories designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which just underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation.

Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci and Jimmy Choo boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments.

On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as OK for design-oriented gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary

menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and modern Israeli restaurant Jaffa. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD Robertson Boulevard is no longer a paparazzi magnet, but it’s still home to shops that appeal to the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts, Peri.A for trend-driven looks and Kitson and Kitson Kids for L.A.-inspired gifts. A Chanel concept store and edgy multibrand boutique Curve illustrate the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. Between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail at Bibo Ergo Sum or crab cakes on the picket-fenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele.

The District by Hannah An and Cecconi’s, popular for power lunches, are just off Robertson.

FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring Mid-Wilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/ West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive. Additional venues on this Museum Row include the renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and the Craft & Folk Art Museum.

South of the museums is a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where traditional restaurants are located. To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with dining spots like Odys + Penelope and La Brea Bakery and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, pizzerias and a stand with authentic Louisiana gumbo. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrianonly shopping center. The Grove has the character of an oldfashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple and Elizabeth and James are joined by myriad restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel (inventor of the Cronut).

WFOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGES 84-85.

Converso

insider tips

FAB FURNISHINGS Bring haute home decor and furniture back with you from these local shops and showrooms.

The Apartment by the Line 8463 Melrose Place, Second Floor, L.A., 323.746.5056 Cisco Home 8025 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.932.1155 Converso 7257 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 312.493.5366 Design Within Reach 8612 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.659.9018 Kelly Wearstler 8440 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.895.7880 Leclaireur 450 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.0262 Modernica 7366 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.0383 RH Modern Los Angeles 8772 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.281.1326

FROM LEFT: MATT HARTMAN; SAM FROST

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD

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Time-tested for 84 years and counting.

Since 1934, The Original Farmers Market has been L . A .’s favorite gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. This living time capsule of Los Angeles history and culture is home to over 100 artisan grocers, eclectic shops and world-class eateries. No wonder it endures as one of L.A.’s favorite places to grab a bite, find the perfect souvenir and make a memory. Open daily.

6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES 323.933.9211 • FARMERSMARKETLA.COM #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta

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HOLLYWOOD & HIGHLAND

/ SHOWTIME / WALK OF FAME / MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE / AROUND VINE

HOLLYWOOD “Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this legendary area of Los Angeles experienced a decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination, where throngs of international visitors mingle with colorful locals.

HOLLYWOOD & HIGHLAND Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the annual Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Lucky Strike Live, dining spots and unique shops and boutiques. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity hand- and footprints embedded in the concrete out front.

SHOWTIME Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the

studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre— built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre regularly stages megahit musicals (such as The Book of Mormon and Hamilton), and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

WALK OF FAME The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks— Pee-wee Herman has a star, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t.

Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of

MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift and Jason Derulo. You can ponder zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Record Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.

AROUND VINE The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large

great find

READS AND REDS Sommelier Coly Den Haan’s Vinovore, a fun, female-driven Silver Lake wine shop, already champions women winemakers, and now it’s going a step further. New to the store is Ms. Readmore, a dedicated section featuring novels by female authors, from Margaret Atwood to Zadie Smith, so you can pair your favorite wine with a feminist read. 616 N. Hoover St., L.A., 323.522.6713, vino-vore.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; MATT HARTMAN; COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

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NEW IN TOWN Ample Hills Creamery

This Brooklyn scoop shop—which Food Network has named “Best Ice Cream in America”—just opened its first West Coast outpost in a Los Feliz Craftsman. 1824 Hillhurst Ave., L.A., 323.426.9009

Screenbid

Shop authentic costumes, props and memorabilia from your favorite movies and TV shows at the Walk of Fame’s newest attraction. 6675 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 310.287.0100

Wildfang

The Portland, Oregonbased feminist label brings its tomboy style—think blazers and coveralls—to Silver Lake. 3430 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.522.3067

Hollywood Pantages Theatre. Opposite, from left: Hollywood & Highland; an exhibit at the Hollywood Museum

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/ LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE / GRIFFITH PARK

The Autry Museum of the American West in Griffith Park

concentration of entertainmentindustry companies in the 1920s.

It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences and its Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit.

Across Hollywood Boulevard is dance club Avalon Hollywood; across Vine Street is chic Japanese restaurant Katsuya.

Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia.

A couple of blocks west is Space 15 Twenty, an Urban Outfitters retail concept/minicomplex that caters to shoppers with an outsize UO store and space for art, events, performances and pop-up shops.

NIGHT CRAWLING The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife, and a lively bar-and-club scene permeates the district. On and around Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at the librarythemed Study Hollywood, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to clubs and eateries, including Tao Group’s Beauty & Essex at the new Dream hotel.

Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county (and perhaps the country). Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los

Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Soap Plant/Wacko and Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House.

At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake.

Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

GRIFFITH PARK Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more.

The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue.

Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

WFOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGES 85-86.

=

The Musso & Frank Grill

insider tips

STAR SEARCH Walk in the footsteps of old-Hollywood stars and luminaries at these Tinseltown destinations.

Egyptian Theatre 6712 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.461.2020 El Capitan Theatre 6838 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 818.845.3110 Frolic Room 6245 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.462.5890 The Hollywood Roosevelt 7000 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.856.1970 Miceli’s 1646 N. Las Palmas Ave., L.A., 323.466.3438 The Musso & Frank Grill 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 Pig ‘N Whistle 6714 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.463.0000 TCL Chinese Theatre 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.3331

FROM LEFT: COURTESY THE AUTRY; TINA WHATCOTT

NIGHT CRAWLING

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Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s18) ©2018 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 18-ADV-25795

*Does not apply to food and retail locations. HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are © & ™ Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s18) ©2018 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 18-ADV-25795

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UNION STATION

/ GRAND AVENUE / BUNKER HILL / OLVERA STREET / HISTORIC DISTRICTS

DOWNTOWN With new restaurants and shops opening daily, downtown Los Angeles could not be hotter. Historic art deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and even movie stars are snapping up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts scene roars to life here, where the laid-back image of L.A. hardly applies.

UNION STATION Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 79-yearold station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or the Expo Line to Santa Monica. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys.

GRAND AVENUE The heart of L.A.’s performingarts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a

formidable collection of stages at the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming.

After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park,

between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.

BUNKER HILL Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo.

A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Both sites house premier collections of contemporary art.

The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent to MOCA.

OLVERA STREET The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.

HISTORIC DISTRICTS Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel),

great find

SLEEK AND CHIC Contemporary fashion favorite Theory just opened its fourth location in L.A.: an expansive, concrete “concept environment” on downtown’s hip Broadway corridor. Find the brand’s urban and eminently wearable clothing and accessories, including the debut collection by new womenswear creative director Francesco Fucci (formerly of the Row). 845 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.270.0034, theory.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: IWAN BAAN; DALE BERMAN; COURTESY THEORY. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (seen in La La Land) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, reopened recently after repairs. Farther down Grand, at 5th Street, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, site of the OUE Skyspace LA attraction. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

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NEW IN TOWN Baby Blues BBQ

The Southern-inspired barbecue restaurant opens its first Eastside location in Echo Park—with a Dodgersthemed mural. 1901 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.529.4062

Openaire

Two-star Michelin chef Josiah Citrin (Mélisse) is revamping the culinary concepts at Koreatown’s Line Hotel, including this restaurant—a poolside, glasswalled oasis. 3515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.368.3065

West Elm

The popular homefurnishings store takes over the ground floor of Broadway Palace. Find wares from 22 California-based artists and makers. 928 S. Broadway, Suite A, downtown, 213.683.4885

Grand Park.

Opposite, from left: The Broad museum; Mark Taper Forum at the Music Center

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/ CHINATOWN / LITTLE TOKYO / L.A. LIVE / EXPOSITION PARK American National Museum.

The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door.

At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s east is the Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; galleries including Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as The Factory Kitchen, Officine Brera and Bestia.

Row DTLA lifestyle complex, near the Arts District

have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, constructed in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.”

Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center is still evident in its historic shopping districts.

The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors

and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the Figat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.

CHINATOWN Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at foodie-favorite spots like Howlin’ Ray’s and Baohaus or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple. Pedestrian-friendly Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to hip galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

LITTLE TOKYO Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to seasonal small plates at Baldoria. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese

L.A. LIVE The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-ofthe-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues— WP24, Katsuya and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

EXPOSITION PARK Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, temporary home of the L.A. Rams. The California African American Museum delves into black history, and the beauxarts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

WF O R B O L D I T E M S , S E E W H E R E G U I D E . F O R A N E I G H B O R H O O D M A P, S E E P A G E 8 5 .

Los Angeles Theatre

insider tips

ON BROADWAY The downtown L.A. thoroughfare is lined by historic theaters with eye-catching marquees.

Globe Theatre 740 S. Broadway, 213.489.1667 Los Angeles Theatre 615 S. Broadway, 213.629.2939 Million Dollar Theatre 307 S. Broadway, 213.617.3600 Orpheum Theatre 842 S. Broadway, 877.677.4386 Palace Theatre 630 S. Broadway, 213.629.2939 State Theatre 703 S. Broadway, 213.629.2939 The Theatre at Ace Hotel 929 S. Broadway, 213.235.9614 Tower Theatre 802 S. Broadway, 213.629.2939

FROM LEFT: KATIE GIBBS; DOUGLAS HILL

SHOPPING DISTRICTS

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OLD PASADENA

/ PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE / SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

PASADENA Minutes from downtown L.A. via the Arroyo Seco Parkway (Pasadena Freeway) or the Metro Gold Line commuter train is Pasadena. Its architectural pedigree is world-class, and renowned institutions including the Tournament of Roses and Caltech lend it cachet. The city’s diverse neighbors are also worth discovering.

OLD PASADENA A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded

by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to H&M, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Vince and Gold Bug draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-the-art technology, plush seats and a bar/café.

Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the

West. The galleries are filled with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters (e.g., Monet, Cézanne, Van Gogh) is formidable.

A sculpture garden features a major tribute to Degas.

East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art house cinema, antique shops and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House Comedy Club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld.

Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum.

East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment.

Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at

SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California.

Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art. A library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen and Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,200 rose varieties.

great find

PINBALL WIZARD A recent incarnation of the “barcade” is Walt’s Bar, a folksy corner bar in Eagle Rock that advertises fine wine and hot dogs on handpainted signs. The long wooden bar is a great place to knock back a beer from local brewers like Mumford Brewing and Highland Park Brewery—that is, if you can pull yourself away from the pinball machines. 4680 Eagle Rock Blvd., L.A., 323.739.6767

TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN; BOTTOM: STEVE ACEVEDO. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

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NEW IN TOWN Entre Nous

This new restaurant in Old Town boasts authentic French fare like duck confit and bouillabaisse (the owners hail from the French Riviera) and a global wine list. 119 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.844.4500

Mr. Furley’s Bar

The popular Valley sports bar opens a huge new outpost with 13 championship-style pool tables, darts and shuffleboard. 224 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 747.240.6500

Superba Snacks + Coffee

Enjoy coffee, pastries and chef-driven breakfast, lunch and brunch at this new café. Don’t miss the made-toorder madeleines. 712 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.522.7008

Pasadena’s Colorado Bridge.

Opposite, from left: Pasadena City Hall; Huntington Gardens WHERE LOS ANGELES 45

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/ EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

The Gamble House

Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia, home to Santa Anita Park, a storied thoroughbred-horse-racing venue. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants. This means the opportunity for enjoying Asian cuisine is virtually unrivaled in Southern California.

Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith can explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the rugged San Gabriel Mountains present hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

SOUTH PASADENA The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House), which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915.

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College— where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate.

On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County. There, office workers pour out of highrises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Stylesavvy shoppers can browse in boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak.

Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Blocks from the Alex is the Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft.

North of Glendale is Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.

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Voorhees Craftsman

insider tips

GOLDEN OLDIES Find vintage treasures at these antique shops.

Pasadena Antique Center & Annex 480 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.449.7706 Pasadena Antiques & Design 330 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.389.3938 Pasadena Antique Mall 309 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.304.9886 Pasadena Antique Warehouse 1609 E. Washington Blvd., Pasadena, 626.404.2422 Revival Antiques 1 W. California Blvd., Suite 611, Pasadena, 626.405.0024 T.L. Gurley Antiques 512 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.432.4811 Uncharted Antiques 27 N. Altadena Drive, Pasadena, 626.405.9000 Voorhees Craftsman 1415 N. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.298.0142

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY VOORHEES CRAFTSMAN

SOUTH PASADENA

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UNIVERSAL CITY

/ BURBANK / NORTH HOLLYWOOD / VENTURA BOULEVARD / DEEP IN THE VALLEY

THE VALLEY

UNIVERSAL CITY A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfield-themed “world.”

Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park.

Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and the latest films at the state-of-the-art Universal Cinema. Restaurants include

Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen, chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut.

BURBANK Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. The city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio.

Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of

your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday.

Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw. More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the country’s largest Ikea,

but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with shops and trendy bistros such as Granville. Another mustvisit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Slone Vintage are favorites).

Always-packed Porto’s Bakery offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba.

Do you like the outdoors?

Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses.

And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series.

If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for uncongested Hollywood Burbank Airport.

It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and

great find

SWEET SUCCESS After over a decade of handcrafting gourmet marshmallows and selling them at local food fairs, former USC health educator and caterer Ann Hickey-Williams has opened Plush Puffs Toasting Bar. Stop by to design your own s’more, order a hot cocoa or take home the inventively flavored confections by the pound. 3811 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank, 818.784.2931, plushpuffs.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN (2); SYDNEY WILLIAMS. OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; KATIE GIBBS

The Valley is a sprawling collection of communities, each with its own attractions and charms.

Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge.

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Hogwarts Castle at Universal Studios Hollywood.

Opposite, from left: Downtown Burbank; Idle Hour in North Hollywood

is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

NORTH HOLLYWOOD North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub, and Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village.

From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Holly-

wood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

VENTURA BOULEVARD This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene.

In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, newer favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions.

Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and featuring upscale boutiques. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its family-oriented lifestyle.

DEEP IN THE VALLEY Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton and David Yurman. The Village outdoor lifestyle destination expands the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room.

Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant open-air destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons.

Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster lovers gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

DSTLD at Valley Country Mart

insider tips

MALL MADNESS Make like a Valley girl and shop till you drop at these centers and malls.

Burbank Town Center 201 E. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank, 818.566.8556 The Commons at Calabasas 4799 Commons Way, Calabasas, 818.637.8922 Northridge Fashion Center 9301 Tampa Ave., Northridge, 818.701.7051 Panorama Mall 8401 Van Nuys Blvd., Panorama City, 818.891.6518 Sherman Oaks Galleria 15301 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.382.4100 Valley Country Mart 20929 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.483.2458 Westfield Fashion Square 14006 Riverside Drive, Sherman Oaks, 818.783.0550 Westfield Topanga & The Village 6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.594.8732

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MANHATTAN BEACH

/ HERMOSA BEACH / REDONDO BEACH

SOUTH BAY the Comedy & Magic Club Sunday nights. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and the Hook & Plow are standouts among the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue.

Farther east, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear.

MANHATTAN BEACH Less than 5 miles south of LAX, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers exported it to Waikiki Beach in the 1920s.

Laid-back Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You might spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. The city’s picturesque pier, with its newly modernized Roundhouse Aquarium, features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is diehard beach-volleyball country.

It’s also a playground for watersports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as Fishing With Dynamite, Love & Salt,

Little Sister and The Strand House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering place, with shops like the Beehive and hot spots including Zinc at Shade hotel.

Between Manhattan Beach and LAX to the north is El Segundo, an industrial city with a quaint downtown and upscale shopping and dining centers including The Point.

HERMOSA BEACH Head south on Manhattan Avenue to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa

shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including its own scenic stretch of beach punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at the foot of the pier becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s Tavern and Tower 12. Close to Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to

REDONDO BEACH The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor.

Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offer fishing excursions and whalewatching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier attracts locals and visitors with quick-and-casual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the

great find

GREIGH AREA For unique, made-in-L.A. looks that are feminine and timeless, check out boutique/atelier Greigh Goods from UCLA and FIDM alum Sisongfa Noukhay. The designer creates the chic styles in the shop using pure silk, linen and organic cotton, and every piece can be customized and altered for the perfect fit. 1300 Highland Ave., Suite 108, Manhattan Beach, 424.262.2881, greighgoods.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY L.A. COUNTY DEPT. OF BEACHES & HARBORS; COURTESY AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC; CHARLES ALEXANDER. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch known for surfing and volleyball. To the north is El Segundo; to the south are the beautiful bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula and the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach.

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NEW IN TOWN Face Haus

The skin-care concept opens its fifth location, offering high-quality yet affordable “facials for the people” at the Point shopping center. 820 S. Sepulveda Blvd., Suite 108, El Segundo, 855.550.HAUS

Sosta

Luca Manderino’s new project boasts an Italian wine list, a Venetian menu and wooden tables handmade by the chef himself. 439 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 424.391.5959

Yellow Vase

This cute, sunshinehued café—with a growing number of South Bay locations— combines breakfast, lunch and pastries with a gift shop and full-service florist. 900 Pacific Coast Hwy., Hermosa Beach, 310.541.0013

The Redondo Beach Pier. Opposite, from left: The Manhattan Beach Pier; an exhibit at the Aquarium of the Pacific WHERE LOS ANGELES 51

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/ SAN PEDRO / LONG BEACH miles south is the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex, which includes a marina, the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach— one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

Santa Catalina Island

gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a year-round attraction featuring 200,000 plants. Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular graywhale-watching site. Just past the adjacent Point Vicente Light-

house is the Mediterranean-style Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-squarefoot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

SAN PEDRO The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and brewery. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors.

More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annually; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turned-museum Battleship USS Iowa. A few

LONG BEACH In the county’s southwestern corner, Long Beach is home to a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor.

The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, the Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kitesurfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples.

Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage-furniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art.

WF O R BOLD I T E M S, S E E T HE W HE R E G UIDE . F O R A NE I GHB O R H O O D M A P, S E E PA GE 8 5.

ESMoA

insider tips

COASTAL CULTURE L.A. County’s southern reaches are rich in visual and performing arts.

Beverly O’Neill Theater at the Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center 300 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach, 562.436.3636 Carpenter Performing Arts Center 6200 Atherton St., Long Beach, 562.985.7000 ESMoA 208 Main St., El Segundo, 424.277.1020 Long Beach Museum of Art 2300 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach, 562.439.2119 Museum of Latin American Art 628 Alamitos Ave., Long Beach, 562.437.1689 Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center 1935 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.937.6607 Torrance Art Museum 3320 Civic Center Drive, Torrance, 310.618.6388

FROM LEFT: NIAZ UDDIN; BENNY CHAN

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA

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THE GUIDE THE BLUE BOY (CA. 1770), THOMAS GAINSBOROUGH (1727-1788), OIL ON CANVAS, 70 5/8 X 48 3/4. THE HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS

WHERE

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ATTRACTIONS

True Blue Rarely is one work of art as inextricably tied to an institution as Thomas Gainsborough’s The Blue Boy (circa 1770) is to The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens. But over the years, the iconic work has started to show some signs of wear (brittle edges, flaking paint) ... that’s where conservator Christina O’Connell stepped in. During Project Blue Boy, taking place through Sept.

30, 2019, she’ll be working on the painting—performing paint stabilization, surface cleaning, varnish renewal and inpainting. Through January, the boy in blue will be on view in the Thornton Portrait Gallery, where visitors can see the conservation in action. Afterward, it’ll go off view for structural work, but the gallery will still house a display with details on the project and the painting’s history. Check huntington.org/projectblueboy for schedule updates. See museum listings for address details.

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/ DINING AMERICAN 71ABOVE In addition to skyline views, expect elevated modern American dishes (e.g., farm egg with crispy potato, chorizo, raclette, lime and cilantro) at this restaurant on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus are offered in the main dining room and several private dining spaces. L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st Floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 $$$$ Map H16 ANIMAL This bare-bones eatery, from the guys known to Food Network fans as the “Two Dudes,” is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig ear). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 BARTON G. THE RESTAURANT The Los Angeles location of Barton G. Weiss’ Miami Beach restaurant offers fun, showstopping food presentations in a fine-dining setting, making each meal an experience. Favorites include the Laughing Bird Popcorn Shrimp and cotton-candy dessert Marie Antoinette’s Head. D (nightly). 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.388.1888 $$$ Map I12

Market Meals There’s an impressive dining scene sprouting up in downtown’s up-and-coming Fashion District. City Market South— a destination once home to the oldest produce market in L.A.—now bustles with creative offices and dining tenants including Steve Samson’s acclaimed Italian restaurant Rossoblu (p. 58). Around the corner, Samson just opened Superfine, offering thin-crust New York-meets-Neapolitan pizzas made with local produce that are available by the pie or slice (1101 S. San Pedro St., Unit F, 323.698.5677). Also onsite is Dama (pictured above), a restaurant from the team behind Scopa Italian Roots (p. 58) located in the site’s former banana-processing warehouse.

Come for the gorgeous design, stay for the Latin-inspired food and tropical cocktails. (612 E. 11th St., 213.741.0612).

CASTAWAY Burbank’s fine-dining restaurant boasts expansive views of the Valley, plus a new design and steak-forward menu from Cutthroat Kitchen winner Perry Pollaci. D (nightly), Br (Sa–Su). 1250 E. Harvard Road, Burbank, 818.848.6691 $$$ Map north of W21 CATTLE & CLAW Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ pop-up restaurant is a casual-cool spot where diners can enjoy two of the world’s favorite foods: lobsters and burgers (made with locally sourced, farm-fresh beef).

Pair with cocktails like the lobster bloody mary, served in Mason jars. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.770.1654 $$ Map I12 CRAFT New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers a contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 GWEN Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s restaurant—named after their maternal grandmother— features meat-centric tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front that offers sandwiches. L (M-F), D (nightly). 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 $$$ Map H14 JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN This rustic-yet-sophisticated restaurant offers creative takes on American regional classics. Try the Jimmy burger with jalapeño jam, pimento cheese and bacon. Santa Monica: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Woodland Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 424.292.5222; The Village at Westfield Topanga, 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.369.0005 $$ Map M8, northwest of A1 JOAN’S ON THIRD Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street and a newer location in the Valley offer omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $ Map I12, T18 M.B. POST Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, delectable vegetables, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 ODYS + PENELOPE Churrasco and grill from Karen and Quinn Hatfield features a live-fire grill and wood-

GUIDELINES

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue.

Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

INDEX American........................56 Mediterranean...............60 British/Irish....................56 Mexican/Latin................60 California Cuisine..........56 Pan-Asian.......................60 Chinese...........................57 Seafood...........................60 Eclectic/Fusion..............58 Spanish...........................60 French............................58 Steak...............................60 Italian..............................58 Thai............................................61 Japanese........................59

fired smoker. Eclectic, flavorful cuisine is accompanied by a menu of craft beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails.

D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 $$$ Map B2 REDBIRD Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Rack of red wattle pork and chicken potpie are part of an intriguing menu. An updated Spanish Baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 $$$ Map H17

BRITISH/IRISH YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, like the acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

CALIFORNIA CUISINE 1 PICO This upscale oceanfront dining venue recently relaunched with a new chef and menu focusing on California coastal cuisine. Pair with a handcrafted cocktail or selection from the extensive wine list. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.1717 $$$ Map M8 DIALOGUE James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran, formerly of Chicago’s celebrated Alinea, is behind this 18-seat restaurant (eight seats at a kitchen counter, plus three tables). One market-driven 15- to 21-course tasting menu is offered; tickets must be prepurchased online. D (Tu-Su). Gallery Food Hall, 1315 3rd Street Promenade, Second Floor, Santa Monica, dialoguerestaurant.com $$$$ Map L8 GRATITUDE This upscale, plant-based restaurant from the team behind Café Gratitude and Gracias Madre offers a seasonally rotating menu and a curated cocktail program that both use 100 percent organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. Everything’s served in a lovely, lightfilled space that spills onto an inviting, shaded patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 419 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 424.389.1850 $$ Map I11 JEAN-GEORGES BEVERLY HILLS Michelin-rated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant at the new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is an opulent indoor/outdoor fine-dining destination, perfect for enjoying fresh, local cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6566 $$$ Map J11 LOVE & SALT Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (e.g., duck-egg pizza and whole roasted pig head) in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef

W Last year, Food Network’s Alton Brown declared L.A. the “top food town in America.” He’s a big fan of Night + Market Song (p. 61) and Salazar (p. 60).

WONHO FRANK LEE

THE GUIDE

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DINING

Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery

Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 $$$ Map L13 MICHAEL’S Michael McCarty’s influential farm-totable restaurant, opened in 1979, is refreshed and back in the spotlight. D (M-Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 $$$ Map L8 MILO & OLIVE The team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery. Expect to make friends with your neighbors; seating is at communal tables and bar only. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$ Map K9 PALEY This glamorous restaurant (named after former CBS CEO William S. Paley) pays homage to the Golden Age of Hollywood. Inside a midcentury-modern dining room, dine on classic dishes with a modern twist. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 6115 Sunset Blvd., Suite 100, L.A., 323.544.9430 $$$ Map H14

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips.

Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer

M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule

116 Santa Monica Blvd.

Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

PLANT FOOD + WINE Restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 $$$ Map N9 RUSTIC CANYON Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterraneaninspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners.

Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 $$$ Map L8 SPAGO An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. L (TuSa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$$ Map I11 THE STRAND HOUSE This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a breezy, stylish bar. Executive chef Austin Cobb’s menu highlights award-winning coastal California cuisine. The street-level bar is a great spot for a sunset cocktail. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13 TAVERN James Beard Award-winning chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9

CHINESE BAO DIM SUM Enjoy delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 $$ Map I12 DIN TAI FUNG Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.277.3898; The Americana at Brand, 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; Westfield Santa Anita, 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588; 1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.574.7068; Del Amo Fashion Center, 21540 Hawthorne Blvd., Suite 519, Torrance, 310.214.1175 $$ Map J10, U23, R23 (2), D2 MR CHOW The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M-F), D (nightly). Malibu: D (nightly).

344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911;

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DINING THE LITTLE DOOR For a candlelit dinner, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12

DRAGO CENTRO Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16

MÉLISSE At Mélisse, among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef/owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated, modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster Bolognese with truffles before superb game dishes. D (Tu-Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8

THE FACTORY KITCHEN Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrial-chic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, complemented by an inventive cocktail program, contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$ Map J17

PATINA The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classicalmusic offerings with fine dining, thanks to its fine inhouse restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Sa). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H16

Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$ Map I11, K7 YANG CHOW Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere have made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811; 6443 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.347.2610; 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 $$ Map G17, west of A1, Q22

ECLECTIC/FUSION CASSIA This bustling Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie, set inside a 1930s art deco building, finds chef Bryant Ng (the Spice Table) serving dishes like Vietnamese pot au feu, black cod with anchovy broth, and grilled pork-belly vermicelli. Sister concept Esters Wine Shop & Bar is adjacent. D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 $$$ Map L8 ORSA & WINSTON Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at this acclaimed restaurant. Select a vegetable, fish or meat grain bowl for lunch; for dinner, enjoy a daily changing six-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 $$$$ Map I16 VESPERTINE Chef Jordan Kahn’s mysterious, pricey “gastronomical experiment” topped late L.A. Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold’s 2017 list of the city’s 101 best restaurants. Expect a space-age meal of 18-plus courses. Reservations must be made in advance online. D (Tu-Sa). 3599 Hayden Ave., Culver City, 323.320.4023, vespertine.la $$$$ Map L12

FRENCH CAFÉ PINOT This glass box of a restaurant adjacent to Central Library offers romantic outdoor dining, sky­line views—from the bottom up—and contemporary Cal-French cuisine from the Patina Group. D (M-Sa). 700 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.239.6500 $$$ Map H16 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE AND BAR Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (e.g., moules frites). L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16 LE PETIT PARIS The L.A. iteration of David and Fanny Rolland’s original Le Petit Paris in Cannes is housed in the historic El Dorado building. By day, the brasserie is bright and tranquil, and at night, it transforms into an upscale lounge. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445 $$$ Map I17

PETIT TROIS Trois Mec’s neighboring, French-barstyle spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. L.A.: L, D (daily).

Sherman Oaks: B, L, D (daily). 718 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.468.8916; 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600 $$$ Map H13, G10 RÉPUBLIQUE In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio, fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (e.g., escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables. Café: B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro: D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$ Map I13 TESSE RESTAURANT Raphael Francois is in the kitchen at Bill Chait’s new restaurant, serving classic French delights—handcrafted charcuterie and foie gras, steak frites—updated for 21st-century L.A. Pioneering mixologists Julian Cox and Nick Meyer are behind the cocktail menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.3866 $$$ Map H12 TROIS MEC Ludo Lefebvre, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook are behind this hot restaurant in a 26-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, five-course meal. D (Tu-Sa). 716 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.484.8588, troismec.com $$$$ Map H13

ITALIAN ALIMENTO Zach Pollack, who recently opened Cosa Buona in Echo Park, is behind this tiny, hip space, where a clever menu includes tortellini in brodo, featuring dumplings filled with a hot broth. D (Tu-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A., 323.928.2888 $$$ Map east of W23 BESTIA Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic. D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$ Map east of J17 BOTTEGA LOUIE This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too.

B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 CULINA The Four Seasons’ acclaimed Italian restaurant boasts coastal influences and a sleek crudo bar. Adjacent is Vinoteca, an Italian-inspired wine- and espresso-bar concept. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 DAN TANA’S New York-style restaurant, an L.A. classic for nearly 50 years. Red-sauced pastas, huge steaks.

Reservations required. D (nightly). 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9444 $$$ Map I11

FELIX TRATTORIA Chef Evan Funke’s trattoria boasts an open kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven, a Tuscan grill and a glass-enclosed pasta laboratorio where Funke’s masterpieces—pappardelle, tonnarelli, strascinati—take shape before diners’ eyes. D (nightly). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.387.8622 $$$ Map M9 JON & VINNY’S Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 $$ Map B2 LA VECCHIA CUCINA Rustic Northern Italian cuisine is served in a laid-back bistro. Find more than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, osso buco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8 LOCANDA DEL LAGO Northern Italian restaurant features organic produce from Santa Monica farmers markets. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.3525 $$ Map L8 OFFICINE BRERA From the team behind the Factory Kitchen around the corner, this stylish trattoria serves a daily changing, Northern Italy-inspired menu in a rusticmeets-contemporary space. The rice dishes, spit-roasted meats and handmade pastas are superb. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006 $$$ Map J17 OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton is a partner in Mozza’s group of contemporary Italian restaurants, which includes this sophisticated dining room. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO The more relaxed sibling of Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials. Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 $$ Map H13 ROSSOBLU Chef Steve Samson (Sotto) and wife Dina recently opened this gorgeous Italian restaurant in City Market South, a new complex in the up-and-coming Fashion District, where he serves Bolognese family favorites. Pastas and salumi are made in workshops visible from the cellar wine room, which is available for private dining. D (nightly). 1124 San Julian St., downtown, 213.749.10990 $$$ Map J16 SCOPA ITALIAN ROOTS Chef Antonia Lofaso’s popular Italian-American restaurant serves up oldschool dishes like rice balls, crispy squash blossoms and squid-ink calamari, plus traditional desserts (think cannoli, spumoni and Italian cookies). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 2905 Washington Blvd., Venice, 310.821.1100 $$$ Map N10 SOTTO Steve Samson and chef de cuisine Craig Towe serve dishes like Neapolitan pizzas, squid-ink campanelle and paccheri with spicy pork ragu, Tuscan kale, pecorino and fennel pollen at their acclaimed regionally inspired Italian restaurant. D (nightly). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11

WONHO FRANK LEE

Bucatini with bone marrow at Tesse Restaurant

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DINING TERRONI Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza, from a Toronto-based chain.

Great happy-hour specials. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. Downtown: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). L.A.: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234; 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 $$ Map I16, J13

JAPANESE ASANEBO Hidden in a strip mall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1 ISE-SHIMA Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers. B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 $$ Map M14 KATANA Sunset Strip restaurant with a sushi bar and robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood. Stylish rooms, patio. Upscale-casual dress code. L (M-F), D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12 KATSUYA Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck.

L (varies by location), D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; The Americana at Brand, 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 323.525.2400 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 MATSUHISA Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s relatively modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12 MTN Chef Travis Lett (Gjelina, Gjusta) is behind this new California izakaya, pronounced “mountain,” where foodies perch on bar stools to dine on fare like charred Japanese sweet potato and slurp up bowls of housemade ramen. D (nightly). 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.465.3313 $$ Map N9 NOBU The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents.

West Hollywood: D (nightly). Malibu: B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1

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ROBATA BAR Japanese grilling from the Sushi Roku, Katana and Boa team. Striking design by Dodd Mitchell. D (nightly). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 $$$ Map L8 ROKU Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 $$$ Map H12 SUSHI ROKU Nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map L8, Q19

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TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA RESTAURANT Twentyone floors above downtown L.A.’s Financial District, you’ll find this restaurant serving elevated sushi, robata and Japanese-influenced entrées. L (M-F), D (nightly). 811 Wilshire Blvd., 21st Floor, downtown, 213.236.9600 $$$ Map H16

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DINING de papas please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 $$ Map I12 ROSALINÉ Acclaimed chef Ricardo Zarate’s sunny restaurant—named after his mother—introduces the “next phase of Peruvian dining” (e.g., lima-bean salad, kampachi ceviche, chicharrón de paiche). The cuisine is complemented by Peruvian cocktails from Jeremy Lake.

D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.297.9500 $$$ Map I12 SALAZAR This trendy taco destination—a colorful desert oasis set in a reworked Frogtown auto-body shop—specializes in outdoor dining, grilled meats and fun drinks. Pair tasty tacos with aguas frescas and cocktails. L, D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 2490 Fletcher Drive, L.A., salazarla.com $$ Map southeast of W23

PAN-ASIAN MEDITERRANEAN A.O.C. Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends—the small-plates format and the wine bar—from James Beard Award-winning Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne.

Try the addictive bacon-wrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 $$ Map I12 THE BELVEDERE The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ elegant restaurant has a lovely terrace and a Mediterranean menu from executive chef David Codney. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 $$$$ Map J11 CLEO At this restaurant, executive chef Danny Elmaleh’s Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of pork belly and lamb, and wood-burned flatbreads. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). The Orlando Hotel, 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.658.6600 $$$ Map I12 CROSSROADS KITCHEN Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort-food classics. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 $$$ Map H12 FIG & OLIVE Inspired by Provence, France, and Mediterranean culinary heritage, this restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil. Don’t miss the Moroccan free-range chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8490 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett (also behind Gjusta and MTN), Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s liveliest patio. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9 LUCQUES Chef/owner Suzanne Goin (A.O.C.) delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes dishes such as grilled salmon wrapped in grape leaves and served with green rice, feta, labneh and caper salsa.

L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13

MEXICAN/LATIN BROKEN SPANISH The upscale sister of B.S. Taqueria, this “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., Suite 102, downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I15 GRACIAS MADRE Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Café Gratitude.

Inventive dishes like coconut-ceviche tostadas and flautas

THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Beverly Hills’ Crustacean—offers cuisine that reflects her Vietnamese heritage while incorporating California sensibilities. Dishes such as Wok Lobster with handmade noodles are enjoyed with Southeast Asiainspired cocktails. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 $$$ Map I12 LITTLE SISTER Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s panAsian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and saltand-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). Downtown: B, L, D (daily). R.B.: L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146; 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237 $$ Map L13, I16, M13 LUKSHON Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery. The crispy whole fish is not to be missed. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 WP24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. Restaurant/lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room: D (Tu-Sa). Nest: D (nightly). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

SEAFOOD BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this restaurant near the Santa Monica Pier specializes in dishes such as oysters on the half shell, New England clam chowder and lobster rolls. L, D (daily). 355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$$ Map L8 CAFE DEL REY Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. Stop in for its great nightly happy hour, too. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9

over a mesquite charcoal grill. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 $$$ Map M9 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE Chef David LeFevre (the Arthur J, M.B. Post) loads his menu with East Coast inspirations. Among the old-school small plates in this charming restaurant are Maryland blue-crab cakes. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 $$$ Map L13 PROVIDENCE Michael Cimarusti (who’s also behind West Hollywood’s Connie and Ted’s and fish shop Cape Seafood and Provisions) transforms sustainable seafood into oft-changing dishes at this refined restaurant.

Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14 ROY’S James Beard Award-winning chef Roy Yamaguchi, who pioneered innovative Pacific Rim cuisine in L.A. more than 30 years ago, is behind this chain of contemporary Hawaiian-inspired restaurants. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.888.4801; 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.356.4066 $$$ Map west of A1, Q21 SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

SPANISH THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical Spanish-style dining experience to the SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic to cutting-edge. New concept Somni is billed as a “multisensory culinary experience” with a 20-plus-course tasting menu. Purchase tickets at exploretock.com. The Bazaar: D (nightly). Somni: D (Tu-Sa). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16

STEAK ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 $$$ Map Q20 APL RESTAURANT At classically trained chef and barbecue expert ­Adam Perry Lang’s new steakhouse, starters include versions of old-school favorites (e.g., iceberg wedge, shrimp cocktail). The rib-eye, T-bone and porterhouse are all dry-aged on-site. D (nightly). 1680 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.416.1280 $$$$ Map H14 BALTAIRE Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated Brentwood restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sun-orstars dining on its 2,500-square-foot terrace. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 $$$$ Map J12

CAL MARE This sophisticated Cal-Italian seafood restaurant from chef Adam Sobel in collaboration with superchef/restaurateur Michael Mina is on the ground floor of the Beverly Center. D (nightly). 131 La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 424.332.4595 $$$ Map I12

BOA STEAKHOUSE Way hip, way fine steakhouse.

Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. Santa Monica: D (nightly). West Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H12

DUKE’S MALIBU Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this oceanfront restaurant captures the spirit of aloha. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 $$ Map west of K7

CUT A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the place to savor genuine wagyu beef steaks or dry-aged Nebraska beef. D (M-Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$ Map J11

ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood.

Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other old-school fare. Beverly

MARIE BUCK

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PRIME AGED

Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly). Westlake Village: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, west of A1 L.A. PRIME Enjoy city views and wet-aged steaks at the Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites’ 35th-floor restaurant. An award-winning wine list complements a surf-and-turf menu. D (nightly). The Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.612.4743 $$$$ Map I16

TO PERFECTION

MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB At this on-the-waterfront eatery, starters like ahi tartare and caviar are followed by whole Maine lobster and expertly prepared steaks.

D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 $$$$ Map west of K7 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11 MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE Clubby ambiance, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. Beverly Hills, Woodland Hills: D (nightly). Downtown, Burbank: L (M-F), D (nightly). 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.1501; 6250 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.703.7272; 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; The Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I11, west of A1, I16, T20 THE MUSSO & FRANK GRILL Hollywood’s oldest restaurant (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes and lobster Thermidor with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L (Tu-Sa); D (Tu-Su). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$ Map H13 THE STINKING ROSE True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options and premium steaks. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 STK The One Group’s renowned steakhouse has checked into the W hotel in Westwood. Expect starters like tuna tartare with Hass avocado, soy-honey emulsion and taro chips, followed by signature savory steaks and seafood platters for the table. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 $$$ Map J10

Los Angeles 735 South Figueroa St. 213-553-4566

SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills 435 S. La Cienega Blvd.

310-246-1501

Woodland Hills 6250 Canoga Ave. 818-703-7272

Burbank 3400 West Olive Ave. 818-238-0424

South Coast Plaza Village 1641 W. Sunflower Ave. 714-444-4834

Anaheim 1895 South Harbor Blvd.

714-621-0101

Mortons.com

NATALE E T H A I

C U I S I N E

“The Best of Culver City” 8 Years in a Row ~Culver City News

“Readers’ Choice Award” ~LA Times “Best of The West Side” ~The Argonaut

Venice (310) 202-7003 10101 Venice Blvd.

Full Bar | Sushi Bar Beverly Hills (310) 855-9380 998 S. Robertson Blvd.

Full Bar | Valet Parking

THAI NATALEE THAI Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken and a sole filet in red curry sauce.

Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry.

L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, J12 NIGHT + MARKET For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or new Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong.

WeHo: L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). Silver Lake: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). Venice: D (W-M). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899; 2533 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310.301.0333 $$ Map I12, south of W23, M9

Dine In | Delivery Take Out | Order Online

nataleethai.com

where?

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Artichoke Flatbread Clams Casino New Zealand Snapper Crudo Farmers Market-Driven Plates Sweet 100 Tomatoes Roasted Carrot Salad Burrata

1 PICO In the 25 years since it first opened, 1 Pico has garnered a reputation as one of Southern California’s premier oceanfront dining venues. Located inside luxurious hotel Shutters on the Beach, the upscale restaurant recently relaunched with a new chef and menu focusing on California coastal cuisine. Chef de cuisine David Almany (formerly of Osteria Mozza and Singapore’s Angeleno) utilizes seasonal, market-fresh ingredients in dishes influenced by his global perspective. Copa d’Oro’s Vincenzo Marianella has put a fresh spin on 1 Pico’s bar program, whose highlights include handcrafted cocktails and one of Santa Monica’s most reputable wine lists. In addition to inventive food and drinks, the restaurant boasts majestic views of the beach and Pacific Ocean, framed by large, floorto-ceiling windows. The space was designed by famed interior designer Michael S. Smith, with whitewashed, shiplap walls that contribute to its refined, coastal feel. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

Pastas and Entrées Mafaldine Lunghe New Zealand Grouper Bone-In Heritage Farms Pork Chop

Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica

310.587.1717 shuttersonthebeach.com/dining/1-pico

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Cattle 10-ounce burger Short ribs pappardelle Grilled bone-in cowboy

CATTLE & CLAW Cattle & Claw, the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ sizzling-hot popup restaurant, has extended its residency at the hotel. Cattle & Claw has a single purpose: to give in-the-know omnivores a place to enjoy two of the world’s favorite foods—lobsters and burgers—and now the SoCal eatery has added even more comfort food to its menu of renowned 5- and 10-ounce burgers, truffle and sweet-potato fries, and spiced lobster rolls and lobster salads. The new menu includes decadent lobster mac ’n’ cheese, a delicate lobster bisque, savory short ribs pappardelle and the ultimate epicurean delight, surf ’n’ turf with a whole lobster and a bone-in cowboy steak. Drop by Cattle & Claw’s Boozy Brunch every weekend from noon to 5 p.m. to enjoy special brunch menu items like a lobster frittata, lobster Benedict, lobster waffles, burgers and more, and wash it all down with two hours of bottomless mimosas or lobster bloody marys while grooving to a live DJ set. Reservations recommended. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

Claw Lobster roll Lobster mac ’n’ cheese Lobster pizza Combos Two lobster rolls, two 10-ounce burgers, whole lobster, fries, salad Drinks Mason-jar cocktails Lobster bloody mary Margarita

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.770.1654 cattleandclaw.com

3:57 PM

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Pan-roasted bone marrow Baked Blue Point oysters Rockefeller Blue fin tuna tartare Side Dishes Crispy Brussels sprout Heirloom fingerling gratin Vermont white mac and cheese

L.A. PRIME Located on the 35th floor of the Westin Bonaventure Hotel and Suites, the award-winning L.A. Prime invites diners to experience a culinary adventure in a relaxed atmosphere with refined service. Known for its innovative and edgy cuisine, L.A. Prime offers Chicago stockyards wetaged prime beef steaks, as well as beautiful fresh seasonal fish and shellfish. Dishes are enhanced with local produce and paired with wines from an award-winning list recognized by Wine Spectator. Our awardwinning culinary team of chefs have created a masterful menu of artfully presented dishes made with fresh ingredients to please the palate. Stars wink through floor-to-ceiling windows as diners sit back, relax and enjoy all that downtown has to offer. D (nightly).

Steaks Bone-in Delmonico rib-eye 22 oz Primal-cut New York strip 14 oz Bone-in filet mignon 14 oz Composed Entrees 3-pound Maine lobster Double-thick-cut Niman Ranch pork chop Grilled free-range Colorado lamb chops Seared Mano de Leon jumbo scallop Pan-roasted wild king salmon Chilean sea bass SautĂŠed shrimp scampi King oyster mushroom

404 S. Figueroa St., downtown

213.624.1000

FRESH SEAFOOD AND PRIME STEAKS

thebonaventure.com

FRESH SEAFOOD AND PRIME STEAKS

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LADINING THE STINKING ROSE— A GARLIC RESTAURANT The Stinking Rose has been a mainstay on the dining scene since 1996. The restaurant’s latest addition is a supplemental Garlic Stake menu, which includes such premium beef specialties as the Little Devil petite filet mignon, Dracula’s Porterhouse (a carnivore’s dream of the perfectly prepared cut, with New York and filet mignon cooked separately), a bone-in filet mignon and the newest addition, a ribeye steak.

The Gar Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy an evening of standards and pop songs performed by piano man Gary Sherer, who tickles the ivories Thursday through Saturday nights.

Settle into a cozy booth or find a seat at the bar and enjoy an evening of fine food and pure entertainment. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 • thestinkingrose.com

STK Combining a modern steakhouse with a chic lounge at the W Los Angeles - West Beverly Hills hotel, STK makes steak a stylish affair. Each table is illuminated by theatrical lights, and smoky mirrors let diners take in their surroundings while a DJ sets the mood with an energetic live set. Of course, steak is the main attraction here: Choose from high-quality small, medium and large cuts of USDA beef. Other menu highlights include market-fresh fish entrées, tuna tartare, Lil’ BRGs and sides like Parmesan truffle fries and sweet corn pudding. D (nightly).

930 Hilgard Ave., L.A. 310.659.3535 • stkla.com

GRATITUDE KITCHEN AND BAR Love Serve Remember—parent company of Café Gratitude (which has locations in Larchmont Village, downtown L.A.’s Arts District and Venice) and Gracias Madre in West Hollywood— brings an upscale iteration of its plant-based concepts to Beverly Hills with Gratitude. Just like its flagship location in Newport Beach, Gratitude Kitchen and Bar offers a seasonally rotating menu crafted by executive chef Seizan Dreux Ellis that’s designed to support health and sustainability for the community and the planet. And just like the cuisine, the curated cocktail program uses organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. It’s all served in a light-filled, 3675-square-foot space that spills onto an inviting, shaded patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

419 Canon Drive, Beverly Hills 424.389.1850 • gratitudekitchenandbar.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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RESTAURANTS CITY INDEX OUR SUPERGUIDE BY AREA, WITH CROSS REFERENCE TO LISTINGS BY CUISINE

BEVERLY HILLS

NATALEE THAI (Thai)........................................ 61

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

ROBATA BAR (Japanese).................................. 59

THE BELVEDERE (Mediterranean).............. 60

VESPERTINE (Eclectic/Fusion)........................58

RESTAURANT ROW

RUSTIC CANYON (California)........................ 57

CULINA (Italian).....................................................58

DOWNTOWN

BARTON G.

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 59

71ABOVE (American)..............................................56

THE RESTAURANT (American).................... 56

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British/Irish)... 56

BESTIA (Italian).......................................................... 58

THE BAZAAR

SOUTH BAY/LONG BEACH

BOTTEGA LOUIE (Italian).............................. 58

BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS (Spanish)........................ 60

DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese)................................... 57

CAL MARE (Seafood).......................................... 60

FISHING WITH DYNAMITE (Seafood)... 60

CATTLE & CLAW (American)......................... 56

ISE-SHIMA (Japanese)......................................... 59

FIG & OLIVE (Mediterranean).......................... 60

LITTLE SISTER (Pan-Asian)............................ 60

MATSUHISA (Japanese)..................................... 59

LOVE & SALT (California).................................. 56

MORTON’S

M.B. POST (American)......................................... 56

CUT (Steak)............................................................... 60 GRATITUDE (California).....................................56 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak)...... 60 JEAN-GEORGES BEVERLY HILLS (California)...........................56

BROKEN SPANISH (Mexican/Latin)............ 60 CAFÉ PINOT (French)........................................... 58 DRAGO CENTRO (Italian)................................. 58

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)........... 61 THE FACTORY KITCHEN (Italian).............. 58 MR CHOW (Chinese)............................................ 57 KATSUYA (Japanese).............................................. 59 NATALEE THAI (Thai)........................................ 61 SPAGO (California)................................................. 57

BEVERLY BOULEVARD 3RD STREET MELROSE AVENUE A.O.C. (Mediterranean)......................................... 60 BAO DIM SUM (Chinese)................................... 57

KENDALL’S BRASSERIE (French).............. 58 L.A. PRIME (Steak)............................................... 61 LE PETIT PARIS (French)................................... 58 LITTLE SISTER (Pan-Asian)............................ 60 MORTON’S

THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak)............................ 61 NOBU (Japanese)..................................................... 59 THE STINKING ROSE (Steak)....................... 61

MALIBU DUKE’S MALIBU (Seafood)............................ 60

THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak).............................. 61 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB (Steak)............ 61 OFFICINE BRERA (Italian)............................ 58 MR CHOW (Chinese)............................................ 57

CLEO (Mediterranean)........................................... 60

ORSA & WINSTON (Eclectic/Fusion).......... 58 NOBU MALIBU (Japanese)............................... 59

CROSSROADS

PATINA (French)........................................................ 58

KITCHEN (Mediterranean)....................................... 60

REDBIRD (American)..............................................56

MARINA DEL REY

THE STRAND HOUSE (California).............. 57

VALLEY ASANEBO (Japanese).......................................... 59 CASTAWAY (American)...................................... 56 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak)...... 60 JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN (American)................ 56 JOAN’S ON THIRD (American).................... 56 MORTON’S

CAFE DEL REY (Seafood)............................... 60 THE DISTRICT BY

ROSSOBLU (Italian)............................................... 58

HANNAH AN (Pan-Asian)................................. 60

TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA

GRACIAS MADRE (Mexican/Latin)............. 60 JOAN’S ON THIRD (American)....................56 THE LITTLE DOOR (French)..........................58 LUCQUES (Mediterranean)................................ 60 OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian)..............................58 PIZZERIA MOZZA (Italian)............................58

RESTAURANT (Japanese)................................... 59 TERRONI (Italian)..................................................59 WP24 (Pan-Asian)..................................................... 60 YANG CHOW (Chinese)........................................ 58

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE ALIMENTO (Italian)................................................. 58 APL RESTAURANT (Steak).......................... 60

PROVIDENCE (Seafood)................................... 60 GWEN (American)......................................................56 ROSALINÉ (Mexican/Latin).............................. 60 KATSUYA (Japanese).............................................. 59 SON OF A GUN (Seafood).............................. 60

PASADENA/GLENDALE

THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak)............................ 61 PETIT TROIS (French)........................................ 58

ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak).. 60 ROY’S (Seafood)..................................................... 60 DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese)................................... 57 YANG CHOW (Chinese)........................................ 58 KATSUYA (Japanese)........................................... 59 ROY’S (Seafood)..................................................... 60 SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 59 YANG CHOW (Chinese)........................................ 58

SANTA MONICA 1 PICO (California)................................................... 56 BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE (Seafood). 60

VENICE FELIX TRATTORIA (Italian).......................... 58 GJELINA (Mediterranean).................................. 60 MTN (Japanese)......................................................... 59 NIGHT + MARKET SAHM (Thai)................ 61 PLANT FOOD + WINE (California)............ 57 SCOPA ITALIAN ROOTS (Italian)............. 58

THE MUSSO & FRANK GRILL (Steak)... 61

BOA STEAKHOUSE (Steak)......................... 60

NIGHT + MARKET SONG (Thai).................. 61

CASSIA (Eclectic/Fusion)..................................... 58

PALEY (California)..................................................... 57

DIALOGUE (California)....................................... 56

PETIT TROIS (French)........................................ 58

ENTERPRISE FISH CO. (Seafood)............ 60

SALAZAR (Mexican/Latin)................................... 60

JIMMY’S FAMOUS

TROIS MEC (French)............................................... 58

AMERICAN TAVERN (American)................ 56

NIGHT + MARKET (Thai)................................. 61

LA BREA/MID-CITY

LA VECCHIA CUCINA (Italian)................... 58

ROKU (Japanese)..................................................... 59

ANIMAL (American).............................................. 56

LOCANDA DEL LAGO (Italian).................... 58

TESSE RESTAURANT (French)................... 58

DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese)................................... 57

JON & VINNY’S (Italian).................................. 58

MÉLISSE (French).................................................. 58

WESTSIDE

CULVER CITY

ODYS + PENELOPE (American)................... 56

MICHAEL’S (California)....................................... 57

SOTTO (Italian)....................................................... 58

LUKSHON (Pan-Asian)........................................ 60

RÉPUBLIQUE (French)....................................... 58

MILO & OLIVE (California)............................... 57

STK (Steak).......................................................................... 61

TERRONI (Italian)..................................................59

BRENTWOOD BALTAIRE (Steak)................................................ 60 KATSUYA (Japanese)............................................59 TAVERN (California).............................................. 57

CENTURY CITY CRAFT (American)..................................................56

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WEST HOLLYWOOD BOA STEAKHOUSE (Steak)......................... 60 DAN TANA’S (Italian)......................................... 58 KATANA (Japanese).............................................. 59

11/6/18 2:15 PM

ENTERTAINMENT SPECIAL EVENTS DOWNTOWN L.A. HOLIDAY MARKET Dec. 1-2 At Unique Markets’ pop-up, shop the wares of 300 independent designers, makers and brands, who’ll be selling home goods, clothing, bath products, gourmet edibles and more. Free drinks, DIY projects, photo-booth portraits and gift wrapping. 10 am-5 pm. Daily admission $15, VIP $35. California Market Center, 110 E. 9th St., downtown, uniquemarkets.com/losangeles Map I16 THE NUTCRACKER Dec. 1-2, 8-9, 15-16, 22-24 The Los Angeles Ballet performs the beloved holiday tale about Clara and her Nutcracker—set in 1912 Los Angeles—at the Alex Theatre, Dolby Theatre, Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and Royce Hall at UCLA. The Dolby Theatre shows feature performances by the Los Angeles Ballet Orchestra. See website for schedule and ticket information. Alex Theatre, 216 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.243.2539; Dolby Theatre, Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300; Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center, 1935 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.937.6607; Royce Hall at UCLA, 10745 Dickson Court, L.A., 310.825.4401, losangelesballet.org/ the-nutcracker Map T23, H13, L13, I10 CICLAVIA—HEART OF L.A. Dec. 2 Six miles of L.A.’s normally congested streets turn into a car-free park for a walk and bike tour through Chinatown, DTLA and Boyle Heights during this beloved open-streets event. See website for route details. 9 am-3 pm.

Free. 213.355.8500, ciclavia.org MARINA DEL REY HOLIDAY BOAT PARADE Dec. 8 Annual parade of decorated boats and fireworks show.

This year’s theme is “Holiday Water Wonderland.”

Fireworks, 5:55 pm; parade, 6-8 pm. Beforehand, enjoy real snow, sledding, arts and crafts, face painting, a DJ and food trucks in the park from noon-6 pm. Free. Burton Chace Park, 13650 Mindanao Way, Marina del Rey, 310.670.7130, mdrboatparade.org Map 09 ECHO PARK CRAFT FAIR Dec. 8-9 This popular homegrown arts and design event showcases the wares of over 120 talented local artisans. Shop for jewelry, clothes, ceramics, perfume and more. 10 am-6 pm. One day $12; weekend pass $20. Mack Sennett Studios, 1215 Bates Ave., L.A., echoparkcraftfair.com Map W23 RENEGADE CRAFT FAIR Dec. 8-9 This celebration of the DIY spirit features both emerging and established makers selling their wares, plus food and drink, workshops, music and more. 11 am-5 pm. Free. Los Angeles State Historic Park, 1245 N. Spring St., downtown, renegadecraft.com Map G17

COURTESY PASADENA TOURNAMENT OF ROSES

LOS ANGELES AUTO SHOW Through Dec. 9 Testdrive nearly 100 of the auto industry’s latest models and explore 1,000 vehicles at this annual car show— one of the world’s largest. Kids can enjoy video games, virtual-reality demos and play zones. Check website for hours. $5-$35, under 6 free. Los Angeles Convention Center, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 310.444.1850, laautoshow.com Map I15 MANHATTAN BEACH HOLIDAY FIREWORKS Dec. 9 The picturesque beachside city’s annual holiday celebration features a Skechers-sponsored snow park, a Santa float and live music, capped off by a fireworks show over the pier. Snow park, float, 4 pm; fireworks, 7 pm. Free (new, unwrapped toy or cash donation to benefit the YMCA Adventure Guides Toy Drive requested for snow-park admission). 2 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, mbfireworks.com Map L13 DISNEY ON ICE PRESENTS DARE TO DREAM Dec. 13-16 Bring the kids to see their favorite Disney movies come alive on ice. The show features characters

/ THE GUIDE

GUIDELINES Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue.

Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

INDEX Special Events............67 Museums....................74 Theater........................67 Shopping....................... 76 Music + Dance............68 Spas............................78 Sports..........................70 Nightlife............................80 Attractions..................70 Beaches........................ 81 Studio Tours................74 Tours + Transport.......82 Studio Tapings............74

from Moana, Beauty and the Beast, Frozen, Tangled and Cinderella. See website for showtimes. Tickets start at $25; opening-night tickets $16, under 2 free. Staples Center, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 888.929.7849, disneyonice.com Map I15 TOURNAMENT OF ROSES Dec. 28-Jan. 2 Float decorating, Bandfest, Equestfest, 130th Rose Parade (Jan. 1, 8 am), 105th Rose Bowl Game (Jan. 1, 1 pm). Free curbside viewing of parade on first-come, first-served basis; grandstand seats for $55-$100 on sharpseating. com. Rose Bowl tickets start at $385. Check website for detailed schedule, locations and fees for other events. 626.449.4100, tournamentofroses.com THE BAI HOLIDAY ICE RINK PERSHING SQUARE All month Skate among the skyscrapers at this ice-skating rink, which materializes every holiday season at Pershing Square. See website for hours, skate-session schedule and prices. 532 S. Olive St., downtown, holidayicerinkdowntownla.com Map I16 ICE PRESENTED BY THE PLAZA AT SANTA MONICA All month This 8,000-square-foot outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica brings holiday spirit to the beach. M-Th 2-10 pm; F 2 pm-midnight; Sa 10 am-midnight; Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission, including skate rental, $15. 1324 Fifth St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1199, downtownsm.com Map L8

THEATER LOVE ACTUALLY LIVE Dec. 4-31 For the Record’s multimedia theatrical celebration of Love Actually brings the beloved Christmas film to life with carols and pop hits performed by a cast including Rumer Willis and Steve Kazee. Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, 9390 N. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.746.4000 Map I11 CHARLES DICKENS’ A CHRISTMAS CAROL Through Dec. 9 In this world-premiere adaptation, Tony Award winner Jefferson Mays breathes new life into the classic Christmas tale, turning it into a one-man show in which he plays Scrooge, Bob Cratchit, Tiny Tim et al. Gil Cates Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10 VALLEY OF THE HEART Through Dec. 9 Legendary playwright Luis Valdez (Zoot Suit) is behind this sweeping new epic—set amid the Great Depression and attack on Pearl Harbor—that explores America’s ideals and actions. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 HUGHIE & KRAPP’S LAST TAPE Through Dec. 16 Twotime Tony winner Brian Dennehy stars in both Eugene O’Neill’s Hughie and Samuel Beckett’s Krapp’s Last Tape.

Audrey Skirball Kenis Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10

Coming Up Roses Head to Pasadena to welcome the new year with rose-colored glasses at the Tournament of Roses’ 130th Rose Parade and 105th Rose Bowl Game. From Dec. 28-31, drop by designated “decorating places” to get a behind-the-scenes look at the parade and help put finishing touches on the flower-covered floats (pictured above). To see the floats, equestrian units and marching bands in person the morning of the parade, secure a spot on the sidelines by purchasing a grandstand ticket from Sharp Seating Co. Free curbside viewing is possible, but spots are first-come, firstserved and can be staked out as early as noon on Dec. 31.

After the parade, head to the football game or check out the floats’ incredible handiwork—the showcase continues through the afternoon of Jan. 2. See listing at left.

W When the steel walls of the Walt Disney Concert Hall were first installed, the reflected light heated a nearby sidewalk to 140 degrees. p. 68 WHERE LOS ANGELES 67

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ENTERTAINMENT

“AN EXUBERANT ANTIDOTE FOR WHATAILSTHE AMERICAN SOUL.”

DIXIE’S TUPPERWARE PARTY Through Dec. 30 This off-Broadway one-woman comedy starring fast-talking Alabama gal Dixie Longate returns to L.A. for a limited engagement. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 COME FROM AWAY All month This moving musical is set in the week following the Sept. 11 attacks and tells the true story of what transpired when 38 planes carrying 7,000 passengers were ordered to land unexpectedly in a small, welcoming town in Newfoundland. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 WICKED All month The Broadway sensation is back by popular demand. Learn the untold story of the witches of Oz, the “wicked” Elphaba and good witch Glinda, in this smash-hit prequel to The Wizard of Oz. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13

—The Washington Post

THE REMARKABLE TRUE STORY

MUSIC + DANCE AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY BALLET Dec. 1-2, 7-9, 14-16, 20-24 The Nutcracker Suite. 700 S. Flower St., Suite 3200, downtown, 213.304.3408 Map I16 CENTER FOR THE ART OF PERFORMANCE AT UCLA AT ROYCE HALL Dec. 1 Luciana Souza: The Book of Longing Featuring Chico Pinheiro and Scott Colley. Dec. 2 Elizabeth Gilbert & Cheryl Strayed in Conversation.

Dec. 6 Béla Fleck & Abigail Washburn. Dec. 14-15 Taylor Mac’s Holiday Sauce. 340 Royce Drive, L.A., 310.825.2101 Map J10 DOROTHY CHANDLER PAVILION Dec. 1-2 George Balanchine’s The Nutcracker. Dec. 6, 9, 12, 15 Hansel and Gretel, L.A. Opera, conductor James Conlon, starring Susan Graham. Dec. 24 L.A. County Holiday Celebration. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16

REDCAT Through Dec. 2 Ellen Reid: p r i s m. Dec. 7-8 CalArts Winter Dance. Dec. 10 Jumana Manna: Wild Relatives. Dec. 13-16 My Barbarian: Non-Western.

631 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.237.2800 Map H16

COME FROM AWAY Book, Music, and Lyrics by Irene Sankoff and David Hein Musical Staging by Kelly Devine Directed by Christopher Ashley

WINNER!

THE THEATRE AT ACE HOTEL Dec. 1 Rob Bell. Dec. 2 FilmWeek Screenings: The Artist. Dec. 3 Bob Lazar: Area 51 & Flying Saucers. Dec. 5 NPR’s How I Built This With Guy Raz: Live From L.A. With Michael Dubin. Dec. 7 CAP UCLA presents: A Thousand Thoughts: A Live Documentary With the Kronos Quartet. Dec. 9 2018 Teen Top Night in USA. Dec. 14 John Butler Trio+.

929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16

BEST MUSICAL ALL ACROSS NORTH AMERICA

NYC I TORONTO I D.C. I SEATTLE I SAN DIEGO

AHMANSONTHEATRE.ORG 28 06

NOV

WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Dec. 1 Toyota Symphonies for Youth: Brahms and His First Symphony, featuring Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Elena Schwarz. Dec. 1-2 MTT and Tchaikovsky 6, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Michael Tilson Thomas, mezzo-soprano Measha Brueggergosman. Dec. 2 English Cathedral Christmas, featuring Los Angeles Master Chorale, associate conductor Jenny Wong, artistic director Grant Gershon. Dec. 4 Gautier Capuçon; Jean-Yves Thibaudet. Dec. 7 Trey Anastasio. Dec. 7-9 Tchaikovsky & Ives With MTT, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Michael Tilson Thomas, cellist Gautier Capuçon, Los Angeles Master Chorale, artistic director Grant Gershon.

Dec. 8, 15 Festival of Carols, featuring L.A. Master Chorale, composer Christopher Willis, composer/arranger Shawn Kirchner, artistic director Grant Gershon.

Dec. 9 Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center. Dec. 13-14 Mehta’s Brahms: Symphony No. 1, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Zubin Mehta, pianist Yefim Bronfman. Dec. 15-16 Mehta’s Brahms: Symphony No. 2, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Zubin Mehta,

JAN

THE FORUM Dec. 2 Marc Anthony: Legacy Tour. Dec. 11, 13, 15 An Evening With Fleetwood Mac. Dec. 16-17 Childish Gambino. Dec. 19-20 Travis Scott: Astroworld: Wish You Were Here Tour. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12

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ATTRACTIONS pianist Yefim Bronfman. Dec. 16 Handel’s Messiah, featuring L.A. Master Chorale, soprano Alannah Garnier, mezzo-soprano Jessie Shulman, tenor Robert Norman, baritone Steve Pence, artistic director Grant Gershon.

Dec. 17 38th Annual Messiah Sing-Along, featuring L.A. Master Chorale, soprano April Amante, mezzo-soprano Nike St. Clair, tenor Jimmy Traum, baritone Derrell Acon, artistic director Grant Gershon. Dec. 19 A Chanticleer Christmas. Dec. 20 Herb Alpert and Lani Hall; The Manhattan Transfer. Dec. 21 Swinging Christmas With the Arturo Sandoval Big Band, featuring Notre Dame Children’s Choir. Dec. 22 Holiday Sing-Along, featuring host Melissa Peterman, conductor John Sutton, Angeles Chorale. Dec. 23 White Christmas Sing-Along. Dec. 31 New Year’s Eve With Pink Martini. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

SPORTS LOS ANGELES MEMORIAL COLISEUM Dec. 16 Los Angeles Rams vs. Philadelphia Eagles. Dec. 30 Rams vs.

San Francisco 49ers. 3911 S. Figueroa St., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.747.7111 Map K15 STAPLES CENTER Dec. 1 Wilder vs. Fury. Dec. 2 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Phoenix Suns; Los Angeles Kings vs.

Carolina Hurricanes. Dec. 4 Kings vs. Arizona Coyotes.

Dec. 5 Lakers vs. San Antonio Spurs. Dec. 6 Kings vs.

New Jersey Devils. Dec. 7 Air Force Reserve Hall of Fame Classic Presented by Citi. Dec. 8 Kings vs. Vegas Golden Knights; Los Angeles Clippers vs. Miami Heat.

Dec. 10 Lakers vs. Miami Heat. Dec. 11 Clippers vs.

Toronto Raptors. Dec. 17 Clippers vs. Portland Trail Blazers. Dec. 18 Kings vs. Winnipeg Jets. Dec. 20 Clippers vs. Dallas Mavericks. Dec. 21 Lakers vs. New Orleans Pelicans. Dec. 22 Clippers vs. Denver Nuggets. Dec. 23 Lakers vs. Memphis Grizzlies. Dec. 26 Clippers vs. Sacramento Kings. Dec. 27 Kings vs. Arizona Coyotes. Dec. 28 Lakers vs. Clippers. Dec. 29 Kings vs. Vegas Golden Knights; Clippers vs. San Antonio Spurs. Dec. 30 Lakers vs. Sacramento Kings. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15 STUBHUB CENTER Dec. 9 Los Angeles Chargers vs. Cincinnati Bengals. 18400 Avalon Blvd., Carson, 310.630.2000 Map M15

ATTRACTIONS AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea otters and 11,000 other animals.

Daily 9 am-6 pm. $17.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16

The untold true story of the Witches of Oz

BARNSDALL ART PARK Features Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House, the L.A. Municipal Art Gallery, Barnsdall Art Center, Junior Art Center and Barnsdall Gallery Theatre. Park: daily 6 am-10 pm; Municipal Art Gallery: Th-Su noon-5 pm; Hollyhock House tours: ThSu 11 am-4 pm. Hollyhock House tours $3-$7. 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.913.4031 Map W22 BATTLESHIP USS IOWA Former battleship is permanently docked as a floating museum. Explore the missile decks, bridge, mess areas and captain’s cabin. Daily 10 am-5 pm; last ticket sold at 4 pm. $11.95-$19.95, under 5 free. Pacific Battleship Center, USS Iowa BB-61, 250 S. Harbor Blvd., San Pedro, 877.446.9261 Map O15 DESCANSO GARDENS Collections include coast live oaks, roses, the Oak Woodland, the Ancient Forest, the Japanese Garden and an award-winning camellia garden. M, F-Su 9 am-5 pm; Tu-Th 9 am-8 pm. $4$9, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19

November 28 – January 27 HollywoodPantages.com 800-982-2787 Groups 15+ 323-463-4367

DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Pirates of the Caribbean, Space Mountain and updated Star Tours. Disney California Adventure is adjacent. Call for hours. $97-$135, under 3 free. 1313 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6 70 SOCALPULSE.COM

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Holiday Event & Tree Lighting Saturday, December 1, 5pm-9pm Street-wide holiday parties into the night.

Santa Pub Crawl

G

Saturday, December 8, 2018

2019 CALENDAR

MAINopoly - Taste of Main

Memorial Day Weekend, 1pm-6pm

Experience Main Street's best restaurants, coffee shops, juiceries and more.

Summer SOULstice

Basement Tavern

2640 Main Street 310 396 2469 basementtavern.com

Enterprise Fish Co. 174 Kinney Street 310 392 8366 enterprisefishco.com

Sunday, June 23 Open Street Block Party

Multiple Live Bands, Events and Sales Fun activities for kids and adults!

Howl-O-Ween

Sunday October 27th

Popular costume contest for furry friends at Pacific Street Dog Park!

Farmers Market

Every Sunday! 8:30am-1:30pm Main Street Santa Monica is a unique collection of over 250 shops including restaurants, bars, boutiques, cafes, and services stretching from Pico to the Santa Monica City limit and boasting the Happiest Hours up and down the street!

@MainTweetSM

@MainStreetSM

#MainStreetSM

La Vecchia Cucina

2654 Main Street 310.399.7979 lavecchiacucina.com

mainstreetsm.com

“Shopping Cart Christmas Tree” on display at 2437 Main Street.

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ATTRACTIONS This dramatic re-telling weaves together firsthand accounts by 30 World War I soldiers with music including patriotic tunes, trench songs and Christmas carols.

DOLBY THEATRE Tour the home of the Academy Awards, formerly named the Kodak Theatre. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 10 am-4 pm. $18-$23, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13 EL PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES Birthplace of Los Angeles; the site of this historical monument dates to 1781.

Historic buildings, 11 of which are open to the public, include 1818 Avila Adobe, L.A.’s oldest. 125 Paseo de la Plaza, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17 GRAND PARK Urban park positioned between the Music Center and City Hall offers draws such as a farmers market and community entertainment. Daily 5:30 am-10 pm. Free. Entrances at 200 N. Grand Ave., 221 N. Hill St., 221 N. Broadway and 227 N. Spring St., downtown, 213.972.8080 Map H17 GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction with spectacular views of L.A. and the Hollywood sign. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 JAPAN HOUSE LOS ANGELES This project from the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs features an exhibition gallery and a Monozukuri Shop with a curated selection of Japanese products, plus a café, a fine-dining restaurant, a library, an event venue and views of L.A. Su 10 am-7 pm; M-Sa 10 am-8 pm. Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Levels 2 and 5, L.A., 800.516.0565, japanhouse.jp/losangeles Map H13

D

BY PETER ROTHSTEIN WITH MUSICAL ARRANGEMENTS BY ERICK LICHTE & TIMOTHY C. TAKACH

SAT / DEC 22, 2018 4:00PM & 7:30PM

L.A. LIVE Entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Microsoft Theater and the Novo by Microsoft (formerly Club Nokia), restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 LOS ANGELES COUNTY ARBORETUM & BOTANIC GARDEN Peafowl roam the grounds and roost overhead at this 127-acre garden. Daily 9 am-5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm). $4-$9, under 5 free. Free third Tuesday of the month. 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222 Map Q22 LOS ANGELES ZOO & BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them endangered, living among immersive habitats and lush gardens. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $16-$21, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD Get closer to the stars at this world-famous, interactive attraction.

Find over 125 figures including celebrities, pop icons, actors and actresses, 4-D and VR adventures and more. Daily 10 am-10 pm. $16.99–$30.95, under 3 free.

6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13

Theatre at The Broad Stage made possible in part by generous gifts from Bill & Laurie Benenson and Susan Stockel.

All Is Calm: The Christmas Truce of 1914 at The Broad Stage made possible in part by a generous gift from Linda & Michael Keston.

#thebroadstage

thebroadstage.org 310.434.3200 SANTA MONICA COLLEGE PERFORMING ARTS CENTER TAIX_1-6h.pdf TAIX_1-6h.pdf TAIX_1-6h.pdf

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Celebrating 90 Years 1927-2017

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OUE SKYSPACE LA California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16

7/22/11

PORSCHE EXPERIENCE CENTER At the luxury vehicle brand’s 53-acre experience center, drivers 21 and over can pilot Porsche’s latest models for 90 minutes on a 4-mile driver-development track. 19800 S. Main St., Carson, 888.204.7474 Map M15 QUEEN MARY Historic ocean liner permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Tours, shops, hotel, art deco lounge, a 4-D theater and restaurants. Check queenmary.com for hours and prices. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16

11:50 AM

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D O D G ER STADI UM TO U RS

E XC LUSI V E BEH IN D THE SCEN E S ACCESS

Trophy Gallery

Dodger Dugout

Vin Scully Press Box

Don’t miss the Dodgers Pop-Up Museum this offseason BOO K O N LI N E AT DO D G E R S .C OM/ TO U R S O R C A LL 8 6 6 - DO D G E R S

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ATTRACTIONS RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the Oval Office. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $15-$25, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $89.99, under 3 free. Parking $17-$30. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 619.222.4732 TCL CHINESE THEATRE Historic, meticulously restored Hollywood movie palace (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre) with Imax screen and walkway of stars’ handprints and footprints in the forecourt. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.3331 Map H13 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes eateries such as Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen and Voodoo Doughnut; clothing boutiques and novelty stores; a state-of-the-art Universal Cinema and Imax theater; and simulated skydiving wind tunnel iFly Hollywood.

Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. Attractions include the brand-new multisensory attraction DreamWorks Theatre Featuring Kung Fu Panda; The Wizarding World of Harry Potter; and Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem and adjacent Super Silly Fun Land. Studio Tour includes Peter Jackson’s King Kong 360 3-D, film and TV sets. Call or check universalstudioshollywood.com for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

STUDIO TOURS PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Group tours of Hollywood’s longest-operating and only remaining major studio. Reservations recommended.

See paramountstudiotour.com for schedules. Studio Tour $58, under 10 not admitted; VIP Tour $178, under 10 not admitted; After Dark Tour $78, under 16 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14 SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion-picture studio includes stages where TV shows and movies including The Wizard of Oz and Spider-Man were filmed. Reservations, photo ID required. M-W, F 9:30 am-2:30 pm; Th 9:30 am-6 pm. $45, under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, an expert tour guide, a gourmet lunch, visits to the Will & Grace set and other perks. For hours and prices, call or check universalstudioshollywood.com. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR HOLLYWOOD Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, prop warehouse, the real Friends Central Perk set, original Batmobiles and observation of filming (when possible). Deluxe tour available. Reservations recommended; photo ID required. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. $55-$68, under 8 not admitted. Parking $12. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 877.492.8687 Map U20

STUDIO TAPINGS 1IOTA Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including Jimmy Kimmel Live! and The Voice. Minimum age 16-18, varies by show. 323.417.6550, 1iota.com AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC, Netflix and the CW that are produced in the L.A. area, such as The Big Bang

Theory and Man With a Plan. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com THE ELLEN DEGENERES SHOW Free tickets to taping of the comedian’s daytime talk show. Minimum age 14; minors must show photo ID and be accompanied by a parent. Day-of tickets, call before noon; advance tickets, go to ellen.warnerbros.com/tickets. Warner Bros. Studios, 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.954.5929 Map U20 ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including America’s Got Talent, Dancing With the Stars and The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12-18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, mytvtickets.com

MUSEUMS THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Cultural venue dedicated to digital and print photography. W, F-Su 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa-Su. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000 Map J11 AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native American materials. Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $6-$14, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains more than 2,000 works of contemporary art. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free.

Online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16 CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Exhibits showcasing the history, culture and art of African-Americans, with an emphasis on California and the western United States. Tu-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $12, $15 after 5 pm. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 213.744.7432 Map M8 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Permanent gallery, free; admission for King Tut: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh and Imax varies. Parking $12. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 GETTY CENTER Travertine-clad hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9 GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities.

W-M 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm.

Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Awards history. Su-M, W-Th 10:30 am-6:30 pm; F-Sa 10 am-8 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HAMMER MUSEUM UCLA-affiliated museum presents influential traveling shows and installations alongside its permanent collection. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.443.7000 Map J10 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13

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SHOPPING HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens; several dining concepts; a beautiful gallery; and an education and visitor center. W-M 10 am-5 pm. $13-$29, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART The largest art museum in the western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus.

M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $16-$25, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST The West Coast’s largest collection of Holocaust-era artifacts housed in an award-winning architectural building. Interactive exhibits, public tours and Holocaust survivor talks. Sa-Th 10 am-5 pm; F 10 am-2 pm.

Free. Pan Pacific Park, 100 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.651.3704 Map I13 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Premier contemporary-art museum housed in three facilities.

GA, GC: M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. PDC: Tu-F 11 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-6 pm. GA and GC: $8-$15, under 12 free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, human-rights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-F 10 am-5 pm. $11.50-$15.50. Anne: $12.50-$15.50. Under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. The 3.5-acre Nature Gardens and Tyrannosaurus rex growth series exhibit are highlights. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Museum displays about 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles in permanent and rotating exhibits. Daily 10 am-6 pm. $8-$16, under 3 free. Tours of newly expanded and renovated vault $20-$30, under 10 not admitted.

6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13 SKIRBALL CULTURAL CENTER Cultural venue highlights the American Jewish experience through engaging exhibitions and programs. The award-winning Noah’s Ark attraction is great for tots. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Thursdays. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

SHOPPING THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with 90 stores; a Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere; and a trolley. Kate Spade, & Other Stories and Toms are among the 90 or so stores. Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23 BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall just completed a multimillion-dollar renovation. It has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana) and is anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. New dining options include Cal Mare, Farmhouse, Yardbird Southern

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Restrictions apply. © 2018 SeaWorld Parks & Entertainment, Inc. All rights reserved.

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SPAS Table & Bar, Pitchoun!, Eggslut and Easy’s diner. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CITADEL OUTLETS Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Coach, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 THE GROVE Outdoor center is home to 40 shops including Apple, Nordstrom and Elizabeth and James and restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel (creator of the Cronut), all in a setting inspired by a grand old downtown. Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws. Adjacent to Original Farmers Market.

189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13

See Los Angeles.

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Get in the holiday swing with a festive lunch, brunch or dinner cruise. Whichever your pleasure, you’ll enjoy our celebrated cuisine, outstanding service, and the most remarkable views in town.

MALIBU COUNTRY MART Outdoor center with upscale boutiques including Paige and Victoire, plus Cie Sparks salon and restaurants. Malibu Lumber Yard and Malibu Village are adjacent. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7 PLATFORM Collection of cult-favorite retailers (Magasin, The Edit by Freda Salvador + Janessa Leoné, Velvet, Aesop, Tenoverten, Bird) in Culver City’s up-and-coming Hayden Tract neighborhood. Dining options include Hayden and Loqui Taco. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City, platformla.com Map M11 THE POINT Small, upscale outdoor shopping center features trendy retailers including Planet Blue, Lucky Brand and Madewell; top eateries (True Food Kitchen, Umi by Hamasaku, Superba Food + Bread); and fitness destination SoulCycle. 1850 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.414.5280, thepointsb.com Map L13

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SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, including Chan Luu and Barneys New York, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Bottega Veneta, Céline, Chanel, Chloé, Gucci, plus new Alexander McQueen and Givenchy) and 40 restaurants, including Water Grill. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6 THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes shops (Anthropologie, Converse, Cotton On, Zara), kiosks and an array of entertaining street performers. 1351 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8 TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features luxury boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus fine-art gallery Galerie Michael and restaurant 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 WESTFIELD AT LAX Travelers flying out of LAX can enjoy some of L.A.’s top retail and dining options curated by Westfield (Fred Segal, MAC Cosmetics, Petrossian, Porsche Design, SeaLegs Wine Bar, Spanx) in LAX’s Tom Bradley International Terminal, as well as terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldairports.com/lax Map O10 WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY Open-air shopping center fresh from a $1 billion revitalization has more than 175 stores; a luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen; a food-court atrium and terrace; and the West Coast’s first Eataly. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.277.3898 Map J11

SPAS CHUAN SPA Elegant spa at the Langham Huntington, Pasadena offers treatments inspired by traditional Chinese medicine; high-tech facials; an herbal steam room, sauna and whirlpool; a fitness center; and a 78 SOCALPULSE.COM

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NIGHTLIFE full-service salon. 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6414 Map R20

Been confused about life?

CIEL SPA Philippe Starck-designed modern retreat by Pearl Recovery Retreat and Wellness at the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills offers luxurious services and product lines such as Biologique Recherche, plus a full-service salon.

Access to fitness center and Altitude pool deck. Herbal steam room, showers. 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5560 Map I12

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HOTEL BEL-AIR SPA Valmont’s signature high-performance anti-aging products are spotlighted at the Hotel Bel-Air’s spa. Nestled in the hotel’s tropical gardens, the spa features a couple’s enclave, steam rooms, marble showers and a relaxation room. 701 Stone Canyon Road, L.A., 310.909.1681 Map I10

DIANETICS

LA PRAIRIE SPA The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills’ opulent, 5,000-square-foot spa offers luxurious facial, nail and body treatments using products from the renowned La Prairie skin care line. 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6740 Map J11 OLE HENRIKSEN FACE/BODY SPA Full-service spa to the stars specializes in face and body care and also offers nail services. Coed steam room. In the Sunset Plaza shopping center; mobile spa services available. 8622 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 310.854.7700 Map H12 THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA, LOS ANGELES The Hollywood-inspired spa at the Ritz-Carlton at L.A. Live offers a glamorous coed lounge, separate lounges with eucalyptus steam rooms and cold-plunge showers, a couple’s suite, a hair salon and a boutique. 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.4400 Map I15 SPA AT BEVERLY WILSHIRE The spa features a delightful aromatherapy crystal steam room; Natura Bissé, Évolué and Elemis products and services. The Nail Bar offers shellac manicures and pedicures while Pretty Woman plays on a loop. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.385.7023 Map J11

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THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS Petite luxury spa with Easternand Western-style body treatments, an adjacent Nail Suite and facials. 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.273.4444 Map J11 SPA MONTAGE The last word in luxury spas, with deluxe services including L.Raphael facials and facilities including dry redwood saunas, steam rooms, whirlpools, showers and a coed mineral pool. Also on-site are Kim Vo Salon and Gornik & Drucker barbershop. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7840 Map J11 THE SPA AT TERRANEA Terranea resort’s 50,000-square-foot indoor-outdoor spa, set on a bluff overlooking the ocean, offers 25 treatment rooms; a fitness and wellness center; an outdoor spa pool; a café; a full-service salon; and separate indoor and outdoor spa lounges with saunas, steam rooms, whirlpools, cold plunges and fire pits. 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2740 Map O13

NIGHTLIFE 1 OAK Strikingly seductive, art-filled club from New York. 9039 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.2326 Map H12 THE ABBEY David Cooley’s world-famous gay bar and nightclub. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 ARTS DISTRICT BREWING CO. 213 Hospitality brewery and tasting room with classic bar games.

828 Traction Ave., downtown, 213.519.5887 Map I17 BASEMENT TAVERN Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.2469 Map M8

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BEACHES BIGFOOT LODGE Kitschy log-cabin-themed watering hole. 3172 Los Feliz Blvd., L.A., 323.662.9227; Bigfoot West, 10939 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.287.2200 Map northeast of V23, M11 BREAK ROOM 86 1980s-style bar inside the Line Hotel with karaoke suites and live entertainment. 630 S. Ardmore Ave., L.A., 213.368.3056 Map west of H15 THE BUNGALOW Seaside cottage-style nightspot with gourmet bites by Fig Restaurant. The Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530 Map L8 DOHENY ROOM Stylish art deco-style bar and lounge from the SBE Group. 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.777.0266 Map H12 HARLOWE Spacious, vintage-glam restaurant and bar from the 1933 Group. 721 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.876.5839 Map H13 LA DESCARGA Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Upscale dress code. 1159 N. Western Ave., L.A., 323.466.1324 Map east of H14 MELROSE UMBRELLA CO. Rustic-chic space with creative cocktails and inventive fare. 7465 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.951.0709 Map I12

Travel Back in Time to 79 A.D. • Experience life in the bustling, ancient Roman city of Pompeii • Marvel at nearly 200 precious artifacts, lost for nearly 2,000 years • Relive the massive power of Mt. Vesuvius in 4D Eruption Theatre

40 Presidential Drive • Simi Valley, CA 93065 • ReaganLibrary.com

THE NICE GUY H.Wood Group’s reservations-only, Italian-inspired restaurant and mixology lounge. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.360.9500 Map I12 NO VACANCY Gin cocktails and live entertainment in a Victorian boutique hotel. 1727 N. Hudson Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.1902 Map H14 PERCH Open-air roost in a historic building; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is underneath. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 POUR VOUS Parisian-inspired Champagne and cocktail salon. Upscale dress code. 5574 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8699 Map I14 SEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-in-cheek hunt-club decor. Intimate Bar Jackalope is hidden in the back and features premium whiskeys. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16 THE SPARE ROOM Gaming parlor and cocktail lounge with bowling lanes and fancy drinks. The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.7296 Map H13

BEACHES DOCKWEILER STATE BEACH 3.7 miles of ocean frontage and 255 acres of beach near LAX. Bonfires permitted. 12501 Vista del Mar, Playa del Rey Map C1 EL MATADOR STATE BEACH One of the prettiest beaches in L.A. County. Steep stairs lead to 18 acres of narrow beach with scenic rock formations. 32350 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 MALIBU LAGOON STATE BEACH 167-acre beach includes Malibu Pier, Malibu Lagoon, Surfrider Beach, the Adamson House and a museum. 23050 and 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506

MANHATTAN BEACH Beach is dotted with beachvolleyball nets and bisected by a 900-foot pier featuring a small aquarium and a café. 400-4500 The Strand, Manhattan Beach Map L13 POINT DUME BEACH Cliffs border the beach, one of the most beautiful along the L.A. coastline. 7103 Westward Beach Road, Malibu Map northwest of K9 SANTA MONICA STATE BEACH Wide, sandy expanses divided by Santa Monica Pier. 100-2900 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica Map M8 WHERE LOS ANGELES 81

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TOURS + TRANSPORT VENICE BEACH Famous boardwalk with street performers and shops is one of SoCal’s biggest attractions.

The north end is home to “Muscle Beach.” 2700-3100 Ocean Front Walk, Venice Map N9 ZUMA BEACH The ultimate SoCal beach. Food stands at each end of its 4-mile expanse along PCH. Beach wheelchairs available. 30000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K7

TOURS + TRANSPORT AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservations recommended. Call or check website for hours and prices. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium, which recently hosted the World Series, allows guests to visit the field, dugout and more. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 866.363.4377 Map G17 HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from dinner and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 888.467.6256, hornblower.com Map O9 METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Santa Monica, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net METROLINK Regional train system connects L.A. County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties.

Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown L.A. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com STARLINE TOURS Celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tours throughout the day, as well as tours to beaches, theme parks and more.

The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour makes more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13 TMZ CELEBRITY TOUR, HOLLYWOOD Two-hour bus tour highlights celebrity hot spots in Hollywood, Beverly Hills and on the Sunset Strip, brought to life with videos from TMZ’s on-air stories and the occasional star sighting. See website for pickup locations, hours and prices. 844.TMZ.TOUR (869.8687), tmztour.com

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WHERE 30 THINGS WE LOVE

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Coffee by the coast at The Waterfront on the Venice Boardwalk. p. 20

Panoramic skyline views at sunset from OUE Skyspace LA in the U.S. Bank Tower. p. 72

Holiday spirit and skating by the ocean at Ice at Santa Monica’s outdoor rink. p. 67

The industrial-cool dining room at chef David Chang’s Majordomo. p. 19

Upscale shopping and dining at new lifestyle center Palisades Village. p. 9

Delicate necklaces—perfect for layering—at Gorjana’s new Westfield Century City boutique. p. 12

The touching letters and gorgeous homes in Dear Seller: Real Estate Love Letters From Los Angeles. p. 14

Milla Chocolates’ popular Hazelnut Praliné Bar. p. 14

Uni cacio e pepe at restaurateur Beau Laughlin’s new Atrium in Los Feliz. 323.607.6944

Brunch at Pasadena’s new Superba Snacks + Coffee. p. 45

Crispy tofu balls and Ms. Pac-Man at Echo Park’s Button Mash. 213.250.9903

Dinner at Maple, followed by the dazzling Enchanted: Forest of Light at Descanso Gardens. p. 6

Josiah Citrin’s new restaurant, Openaire, at Koreatown’s Line Hotel. p. 41

Hard-to-find vinos at wine store Boutellier, adjacent to Tesse Restaurant. p. 20

Authentic New York pizza at Roberta’s newly opened permanent spot at Platform. p. 78

Stylish Apotheke, in Chinatown. 323.844.0717

California-cool home wares at Heath Ceramics. p. 16

Sipping rare whiskey at Gabi James’ Pappy Van Winkle dinner on Dec. 3. 310.540.4884

Valerie Confections’ Croquant bar—a collaboration with local designer Clare V. p. 14

Gooey Snap, Mallow, Pop! ice cream at Brooklyn import Ample Hills Creamery. p. 37

where in the world

Girl power at femaleowned bars, like Little Tokyo’s The Mermaid. 213.947.3347

WHERE is an inter­national network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

A holiday feast at the

Waldorf Astoria’s Jean-Georges Beverly Hills. p. 56 Super-thin slices of New York-meets-Neapolitan pizza at Steve Samson’s Superfine. p. 56 American Contemporary

Ballet’s immersive take on The Nutcracker Suite in a DTLA skyscraper. p. 6 Lavender- and rose-infused cocktails at stunning new bar The Wolves, downtown.

213.265.7952

Refueling after holiday shopping with Bellacures and the I.V. Doc’s “Dr. Detox” Pedicure. 310.550.5822 Locally designed dresses at Manhattan Beach’s Greigh Goods. p. 50 Refinery29’s Insta-friendly art experience 29Rooms, Dec. 5-9 at the Reef. 29rooms.com Project Blue Boy, the Huntington’s exhibition about conserving Thomas Gainsborough’s famous work. p. 55 Christmas in the Wizarding World of Harry Potter—complete with snowfall and a lights show—at Universal Studios Hollywood. p. 74

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1, MATT WAUGH AND CANNON SCHMIDT OF THE SALTY SHUTTERS; 10, COURTESY GORJANA; 15, COURTESY VALERIE CONFECTIONS; 18, COURTESY NARRATED OBJECTS; 20, COURTESY WALDORF ASTORIA BEVERLY HILLS; 27, CHARLES ALEXANDER

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