Where Los Angeles, August 2012

Page 76

Dining Roasted spaghetti squash from Stella Rossa Pizza Bar in Santa Monica

3115 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey, 310.574.0666; 1101 Aviation Blvd., Hermosa Beach, 310.937.3800 $  Map Q19, K9, N9, L13 TANZORE  This sleek, modern restaurant takes Indian cuisine to a whole new level, with lighter technique, seasonal California ingredients and modern presentation in a dramatic dining room. The fare includes items such as seared tuna with toasted coriander atop avocado raita. Br (Su), L, D (daily).  50 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.3894 $$$  Map J12

Italian

delphine  Just off the soaring lobby of the chic W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, demure Delphine establishes a laid-back ambience with vintage photo murals and wood barreled ceilings. Chef Sascha Lyon’s entrees include braised short ribs with roasted root vegetables. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su).  W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1355 $$$  Map H13 Kendall’s Brasserie  Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here: fruits de mer, moules frites and braised lamb shank. B, L (daily), D (Tu–Su; M varies).  135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$  Map H16 The Little Door  For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace in one of four intimate, romantic dining areas. D (nightly).  8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$  Map I12 Mélisse  At Mélisse, consistently among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef-owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster bolognese with black truffles before superb game dishes and selections from a nonpareil cheese cart. D (Tu–Sa).  1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$  Map M8 PALIHOUSE COURTYARD BRASSERIE  Located in a charming boutique hotel, this is a relaxed brasserie, attractive for a morning café au lait or a full supper. Guests settle in at courtyard tables, enjoying fare such as moules frites and truffle chicken. Br (Su), B, L (daily), D (Tu–Su).  Palihouse Holloway, 8465 Holloway Drive, West Hollywood, 323.656.4020 $$$  Map H12 Patina  The Walt Disney Concert Hall is a winning composition of impressive classical music offerings and fine dining at its in-house restaurant, Patina. Chef Tony Esnault has injected new life into the restaurant, and has a way with rich game dishes. D (Tu–Su).  141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$  Map H17 Petrossian  Chef Giselle Wellman works with the brand’s signature caviar in creative ways. Highlights include caviar- and roe-topped blinis, vanilla panna cotta with espresso “caviar” (actually tapioca). B, L (daily), D (M–Sa).  321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.271.6300 $$$  Map J12

Angelini Osteria  Hardly elegant or romantic, this is nonetheless one of L.A.’s premier Italian restaurants. Chef-owner Gino Angelini demonstrates remarkable range and finesse, from sea-salt-crusted whole branzino to the heavenly lasagna in herb sauce he inherited from his grandmother. Reservation required for dinner, recommended for lunch. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su).  7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.297.0070 $$$  Map I13 bottega louie  This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in minimalist white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals and downtown hipsters convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas and share small plates of portobello fries and clams casino. There’s a wee gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su).  700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$  Map I16 buca di beppo  Heaping, family-style portions. Call for hours.  80 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.792.7272; 17500 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.995.3288; 1670 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.540.3246; 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.509.9463; bucadibeppo.com for more locations. $$  Map Q21, A1, M14, U20 cecconi’s  This London-based restaurant caters to a well-heeled clientele who come to schmooze over bellinis and ciccheti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful artichoke tortelli and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well executed. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su).  8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$  Map I12 Cicada  This art deco jewel is a perfect specialoccasion spot. Diners enter through magnificent Lalique doors into a room with gold-leaf ceilings and a grand staircase. The modern Italian cooking includes creations such as grilled lamb with apple tempura and horseradish sauce. D (varies).  617 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.488.9488 $$$  Map I16 culina  A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and an impressive 25-foot chandelier. B (daily), L (M–Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su).  Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$  Map J12 dominick’s  Retro Rat Pack vibe inside, airy brick patio with herb garden outside. Intriguing takes on the old favorites: linguine with lemon, wood-grilled burger with crispy speck and burrata. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly).  8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.2335 $$  Map I12

Indian

drago centro  Deftly executed Italian fare—garganelli with pork sausage and fennel seeds, trufflecrusted Jidori chicken—and extensive wine list in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M–F), D (nightly).  525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$  Map H16

akbar cuisine of india  Extensive menu of Northern Indian fare. Santa Monica location is most stylish. L (M–F), D (nightly). Pasadena: L, D (daily).  44 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.577.9916; 2627 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.586.7469;

Il Cielo  Frolicking cherubs, 50,000 twinkling lights, flowered courtyard with retractable glass roof. 1,400 couples have married here. Even the food is romantic. L (M–Sa), D (nightly).  9018 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.9990 $$$  Map I11

Il Fornaio  Trattoria-style favorites; adjoining bakeries offer pastries, sandwiches to take out. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Santa Monica: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Pasadena: Br (Su), L, D (daily).  301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800; 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$  Map J11, L13, L8, Q19 il grano  Elegant Il Grano has emerged as one of L.A.’s finest Italian restaurants. Its menu emphasizes superb seafood, from crudo—sashimi-grade raw dishes—to squid-ink pasta with sea urchin sauce. The wine program matches the high standards of the kitchen. L (M–F), D (M–Sa).  11359 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A., 310.477.7886 $$$  Map K9 IL SOLE  Intimate trattoria lures A-listers and neighborhood folks alike. A makeover courtesy of entrepreneur Brent Bolthouse lends a trendy, loungelike ambience. D (M–Sa).  8741 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.1182 $$$$  Map H12 louise’s trattoria  An L.A. favorite since 1978, Louise’s Trattoria delivers Italian cooking with a whimsical California flair. L, D (daily).  264 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.451.5001; 1008 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.394.8888; 232 N. Larchmont Blvd., L.A., 323.962.9510; 4500 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.667.0777; 10645 Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.6084; 2-8 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.568.3030 $  Map K8, L8, I14, G14, K10, Q19 MADDALENA  Dining among the casks at San Antonio Winery; fresh pastas, seafood, paninis and more served with European hospitality. B, L, D (daily).  737 Lamar St., L.A., 323.223.1401 $$  Map  G17 matteo’s  An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures. Burrata campana salad, mussels in white wine, ossobuco Milanese. D (Tu–Su).  2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$  Map K10 mr. c restaurant  From the Cipriani family, which founded Venice’s legendary Harry’s Bar, Mr. C Restaurant features a timeless, sophisticated setting with Venetian chandeliers, travertine floors and rich rosewood. The menu offers classic Cipriani dishes such as beef carpaccio and baked tagliolini, plus the bellini made famous at Harry’s. B, L, D (daily).  1224 S. Beverwil Drive, L.A., 310.226.6245 $$$$  Map K11 OSTERIA MOZZA  Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants. Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertoire of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly).  6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$  Map H13 paparazzi ristorante  Contemporary Italian, steaks and comforting sides. D (M–Sa).  Sheraton Gateway Hotel, 6101 Century Blvd., Westchester, 310.642.4820 $$  Map O11 Piccolo  Eatery a block from the beach. Ten-course “miniature” tasting menu, monthly “reversal dinners” with chosen wines paired to dishes. D (nightly).  5 Dudley Ave., Venice, 310.314.3222 $$$  Map M8 Pizzeria Mozza  The other half of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza is a more relaxed dining experience, and it’s far easier to get a table than at its sibling, Osteria Mozza, next door. It features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates, and rustic daily specials. L, D (daily).  641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101 $$  Map H13 scarpetta  Scott Conant’s much-lauded NYC-based concept is replicated at the Montage Beverly Hills hotel. Conant is deservedly famous for dishes such as

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