known for its stellar burger, Locanda Portofino and R+D Kitchen are tops for dining; dessert lovers might venture to Sweet Lady Jane for its famous cakes, adored by celebs. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street is a quieter destination that still retains Santa Monica’s beachyupscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, restaurants, British pubs and boutiques (mostly femme-friendly) such as Arm Candy, Goga and Hip’tique. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speak-easy, Basement Tavern.
THE ARTS
Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performing arts center that hosts pop and classical music concerts, film, dance and theater. As L.A. has emerged as a fine-arts capital, the campuslike Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave.) has become an important destination. It’s home to 30 galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art and a cafe.
MALIBU
Twenty miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Stars have made their homes here since the 1920s when May Rindge, the eccentric wife of an heir who once owned all of Malibu, began inviting celebs to live in Malibu Colony to pay the legal bills she racked up from fighting developers. Much of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, such as the many restaurants with ocean views, from the supercasual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Geoffrey’s).
Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard shopping centers, there are enough trendy shops and restaurants to while away an afternoon. Inland, nearing Calabasas, are many wineries such as Malibu Family Wines and Sip Malibu, which offer tastings. Malibu Discovery Tours hosts tours of the region.
TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES
In the counterculture 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessed by long, winding Topanga Canyon Boulevard from PCH. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty. Dining is best by the burbling creek at restaurants such as Abuelitas and Inn of the Seventh Ray. Pine Tree Circle has a lovely bistro and a few boutiques and galleries. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park. Cafes and upscale mom-and-pop shops such as Elyse Walker and the Prince’s Table can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. One relatively unknown gem is the SelfRealization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset, a breathtaking oasis on 10 acres with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The resplendent Getty Villa, often mistakenly identified as being in Malibu, is in Pacific Palisades. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities. Advance timed tickets are required.
VENICE
Abbot Kinney famously won the land that would become Venice in a coin toss. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, today lined with sleek modern homes and million-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina restaurant, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Alexis Bittar, Heist and Vamp are the main attractions. Looky-loos love to stroll Ocean Front Walk to ogle the street vendors and performers, or bodybuilders at Muscle Beach.
BRENTWOOD
Reese Witherspoon, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner are some of the celebrities who live in this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafes and restaurants between Bundy Drive and where San Vicente becomes Federal Avenue. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, maintains a retro farmhouse charm but keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.
MARINA DEL REY
Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest manmade small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants in the fisherman’s wharf are positioned to take advantage of the views. You can rent kayaks from UCLA Marina Aquatic Center (14001 Fiji Way), or shop and dine at Waterside at the Marina, located at Lincoln Boulevard and Fiji Way. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 116.
great find
FROM BEAN TO BAR When it comes to chocolate, we’ve been a bit promiscuous, indulging equally in M&Ms and hand-painted bittersweet truffles that, frankly, look better than they taste. But after one sampling at ChocoVivo on Abbott Kinney, we’re ready to commit to their minimally processed, single-sourced, 100% whole-bean dark chocolate, organically grown in Tabasco, Mexico and stone-ground nearby using a traditional method once performed by the Aztec and Maya. Get your fix via butter, nibs, powder or bars available in up to 100% cacao content and in blends such as Shangri-la, packed with black sesame and goji berry, and Mayan Tradition, which delivers a intoxicating cinnamon/chili one-two punch. 1504 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.463.7878, chocovivo.com
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