Out There Monthly - September 2017

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SEPTEMBER 2017 // FREE

THE INLAND NW GUIDE TO OUTDOOR ADVENTURE, TRAVEL AND THE OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE

OUTTHEREMONTHLY.COM

MOSCOW Mountain

The making of a mountain bike mecca

Hiking:

Bead Lake + The Wallowas

FALL TRAIL Runs

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Westport roadtrip: Surfing // fatbiking // beach hiking

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COntents

Features

17 | One Wheel Wonder 26 | Moscow Mountain

26

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departments 18 | Buzz Bin

• We treat everything from arthritis and other degenerative conditions to sports injuries.

19 | Biking 25 | Urban Outdoors 28 | Nature

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columns 11 | River Rambles 13 | Run Wild

in every issue

14 | Out There Kids

7 | Intro

15 | Eatology

DON’T LET PAIN KEEP YOU FROM THE ACTIVITIES YOU LOVE.

8 | Out There News & Events 10 | Hike of the Month 29 | Outdoor Calendar

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Smell the pine cone, taste the wild huckleberry and clover flower nectar, listen to the birds, feel the bird feather on the ground. Let them play in a dirt pit, make mud pies, collect rocks, carry sticks, and, of course, build a fort.

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September 2017 www.outtheremonthly.com Publishers

Shallan & Derrick Knowles Editor-in-chief

Derrick Knowles Managing Editor

Summer Hess Associate editor

Jon Jonckers Special section editor

Amy Silbernagel McCaffree Digital Editor

Siobhan Ebel Copy Editor

Andrew Butler Intern

Alicia Leggett Contributing Writers:

S. Michal Bennett Bradley Bleck Paul Chisholm Dave Dutro Hank Greer Summer Hess Jon Jonckers Derrick Knowles Phil Linden Janelle McCabe Amy Silbernagel McCaffree Ammi Midstokke Nick Thomas Holly Weiler Jerry White, Jr. Contributing photographers:

Lara Beins Jon Jonckers Derrick Knowles Shallan Knowles Aaron Theisen Art + Production

Art Director - Shallan Knowles Associate Designer- Jon Jonckers to request copies caLl

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Mailing Address: PO Box #5 Spokane, WA 99210 www.outtheremonthly.com, 509 / 822 / 0123 FIND US ON FACEBOOK Out There Monthly is published once a month by Out There Monthly, LLC. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent of the publisher. ©Copyright 2017 Out There Monthly, LLC. The views expressed in this magazine reflect those of the writers and advertisers and not necessarily Out There Monthly, LLC. Disclaimer: Many of the activities depicted in this magazine carry a significant risk of personal injury or death.

Rock climbing, river rafting, snow sports, kayaking, cycling, canoeing and backcountry activities are inherently dangerous. The owners and contributors to Out There Monthly do not recommend that anyone participate in these activities unless they are experts or seek qualified professional instruction and/or guidance, and are knowledgeable about the risks, and are personally willing to assume all responsibility associated with those risks.

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On The Cover: Kimberley-area mountain biker Steve Blake negotiates a rock drop in the Cranbrook Community Forest in the east Kootenays with snow-clad Fisher Peak in the distance.

Photo: Aaron Theisen

Intro: Road Trip 2024 Unity, Oregon, was deserted, except for the lone old man on the porch of a ramshackle building who tipped his hat in my direction as I passed by with a terrible screeching under the hood. I turned my camping gearpacked rig around pronto, struggling with the sudden loss of power steering that accompanied the burning rubber smell and puff of smoke that signaled the demise of my serpentine belt.

I had driven down to the middle of nowhere Oregon several days ahead of our eclipse crew to score a prime path-of-totality camp spot, which, given the deteriorating state of my vehicle, was about to get more challenging. I beelined it to the dirt road turnoff just in time to watch a burst of warning lights flash across the dash. Before the Isuzu overheated, I needed to find a campsite with shade, good eclipse watching and tent pitching spots, and enough parking for half

a dozen vehicles. I blasted the heaters and coasted in neutral when I could, and eventually drifted into a prime canyon campsite with the temperature gauge threatening mutiny.

Before I knew an eclipse trip was on the top of my wife’s list of things to do for her 40th birthday, I had no interest in fighting the traffic and swarms of people expected to arrive in Oregon to watch the sun go dark for a couple of minutes. But that was before I knew what I was in for.

The days at our camp leading up to the August 21 eclipse were hot and dry but never lacking for adventure of one sort or another. We set up a sprawling camp and cooked meals in our open-air kitchen under a pair of gnarly juniper trees. We hiked through sage and rabbit brush, fat biked rutted desert roads, and drove to the mountains to

splash in cool streams to beat the heat. We slept under the stars with coyote and owl call serenades, and finally, the day arrived and it was time to gather up our chairs, eye protection, backpacks, and children to make the trek up the plateau to the prime eclipse-watching spot above our camp.

Maybe the intense multi-day lead-up, the preeclipse whiskey shots, or the adrenaline rush from the mad dash up the hillside to a last-minute better viewing spot had something to do with it, but the whole thing was one of the most amazing experiences of my life. Over a period of about an hour, the moon began to blot out the sun and eventually the August air grew chilly. More minutes passed and the morning light took on an out-of-place, late-in-the-day eeriness. A few stars appeared in the darkening sky, and that was just the beginning.

We were about to have our minds blown by staring at that nearly blotted-out ball of burning gas that makes each day on this amazing planet warm, welllit, and possible.

It was a good reminder to take advantage of new road trip experiences whenever you can, since you’ll never know what you’ve been missing until you give it a try. You may have missed the eclipse, but there’s still time for September adventures.

Head out on the International Selkirk Loop, take a small-town tour through central Idaho, bounce around the Cascades day-hiking chunks of the PCT, find the darkest places possible for star gazing, drive across Montana for the best mountain-top sunsets, and start planning now for the next nearby total eclipse in northern Mexico and Texas in 2024. // Derrick Knowles, Editor

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ing a regional bouldering competition in Spokane on September 30 at The Bloc Yard. This is a significant indoor climbing event and a huge boost for the local bouldering community.

Chelsea Murn works as a route setter at the bouldering gym, and says,“We expect to see kids traveling from Seattle and hopefully Western Montana as well as several local competitors. Anywhere

between 30 to 200 kids might be competing.”

Spectators are welcome to come and see the action for free at this one day-event. There will be individual scores for USAC Youth climbers, as well as anyone else that wants to compete in men’s and women’s categories. Preregister for $35 or pay $40 to register at the door. Visit blocyardgym.com for more info. (Jon Jonckers)

DustBuster Thru-hikes the AT

5 MILE FAMILY BIKE RIDE

FIVE E UNIQUO T S ROUTE OSE CH O M !

FRO

USA Climbing Competition Headed to Spokane

For the first time, USA Climbing will be hold-

“DustBuster” Nichols finished the Appalachian Trail on August 5, just four months and five days after she started. She hiked the Pacific Crest Trail last year with her husband, Travis, and the trip was so rewarding that she just needed to do another one. Hikers can’t choose their trail names, they have to be earned on the trail. In a short span of time, in very dry terrain in California, Lauren tripped and flopped onto the trail in a cloud of dust. More than once. And the hikers that witnessed it dubbed her “DustBuster.”

When asked about the differences between these two legendary trails, she says, “The two trails are vastly different. From the terrain and weather, to the people and culture, if there is a way to be different, then the trails usually are. There’s a handful of

similarities, but to distill it down, the Appalachian Trail was akin to a walk in the countryside whereas the Pacific Crest Trail was a hike in the wilderness.” Regarding the most common mistakes she witnessed on the trail, Lauren says, “There is a popular misconception that one cannot eat healthy and lightweight meals and still carry enough calories.

Sugary foods appear lightweight but end up being very inefficient fuel in the long run. Hikers need to be more worried about packing nutrient-dense food versus total calories especially when hiking 20-plus miles a day.”

Without a doubt, Lauren and Travis Nichols have more ambitious hikes in mind. Lauren expressed interest in the Continental Divide Trail, but it probably won’t happen in 2018. Maybe 2019.

(Jon Jonckers)

Hangman Creek Project Completes First Year

Walk along Hangman Creek and you can be

with ghosts of the Columbia Mammoth, giant salmon, red band trout, and the Native Americans, immigrants, and settlers who once called the valley home. Today the nine stream-mile stretch of the creek from its mouth at the Spokane River to Hatch Road at 195 is frequented by eagles, blue heron, deer and other wildlife and is bordered by park and agriculture land, neighborhoods and trails. It’s also the focus of multiple projects in a corridor that may include a nature path, restoring native vegetation, and interpretive sites to view unique geology. Hangman Creek is also a priority waterway to improve habitat for fish and wildlife.

The project has been made possible by a group of local residents who are working on the second year of a technical assistance grant from the National Parks Service. The ultimate goal is to preserve and improve the natural qualities of the creek corridor, allow for both people and wildlife to thrive, and provide better trail connections between seven neighborhoods (West Hills, West Central, Grandview Thorpe, Vinegar Flats/ Eagle Ridge, Peaceful Valley, Browne’s Addition, and Cliff Cannon). Ultimately the project may

allow for additional trail connections between the Hangman Creek corridor and the South Hill Bluff trails.

There are several opportunities to get involved with and support the project this fall. Help clean up the Spokane River and Hangman Creek shorelines at the Spokane River Clean Up September 16. Sign up to volunteer as an individual, group, or team leader at Spokanerivercleanup.org. People who recreate along or live near the Hangman Creek corridor are also being urged to take a public survey at Surveymonkey.com/r/HMDKZDC. And finally there is an open house scheduled for October 28 at St. John’s Lutheran Church (5810 S. Meadowlane Road in Spokane) to show off concept plans that were generated through a public workshop that is part of a collaborative effort with the NPS, the City of Spokane, and the Washington State Landscape Architects.Find more information about the open house at Outtheremonthly.com/category/trailconservation-news. Next steps for the Hangman Creek project include a habitat management plan, permits, property owner permissions, and finally path and trail building and sign creation. (OTM)

OUTDOOR Recreation Economy GROWS Last July, the Outdoor Industry Association

published a significant report that revealed that outdoor recreation in Washington State generates $26.2 billion in annual spending. “These numbers show that when we invest in public land, the payoff comes not only in the form of a better environment and quality of life, but in great jobs,” says Gov. Jay Inslee. “Love of the outdoors is something that unites the state of Washington.” In a nutshell,

72% of Washington residents participate in outdoor recreation each year. At 7.6 billion in wages and salaries, outdoor recreation easily surpasses computer technology and construction at 6.7 billion and 6.4 billion respectively. It’s now one of the most powerful economic sectors in the economy.

Download the full report at Outdoorindustry.org/ state/Washington. (Jon Jonckers)

Fleet Feet Adds Fit ID to Spokane Stores

Not only did Fleet Feet Spokane recently cel-

ebrate its fifth anniversary, but also just added Fit ID to their stores. It’s a 3D scanning experience that provides a full scan of your foot in five seconds, measuring everything that matters.

Data from the scan coupled with Fleet Feet staff ’s

shoe-fitting expertise provides a new level of customized solutions. The optimum fit in the most appropriate shoes reduces the chances of injury, and gives additional peace of mind that the shoes you buy will help you reach your goals. Find store info at Fleetfeetspokane.com. (Jon Jonckers)

Paddleboarders Travel the Full Length of the Spokane River 112 miles in four days on a stand up paddle

board is pretty badass. Allison Roskelley, Jed Conklin, and Grace Robinson paddled the length of the Spokane River in a four-day adventure that included seven portages, several blisters, and lots of poison ivy. “In some places it was clear as glass with absolutely no movement, while others encompassed roaring whitewater that you could hear from 100 yards away,” says Roskelley. “Then there was the water immediately below the dams that moved in a way that was almost creepy due to the hydraulics. It really showed me that water is just as

alive and unpredictable as any living being on Earth.”

The trio embarked on their adventure right at the height of the August forest-fire haze, and the conditions weren’t ideal. Nevertheless, they committed to roughly 28 miles per day, and they proved there’s still plenty of adventure right in our own backyard. Allison Roskelley’s father-in-law, John Roskelley, paddled the length of the Columbia River, and this definitely motivated her, she says.

“My paddling career is definitely just beginning.

I’d love to follow in my father-in-law’s footsteps and hit sections of the Columbia.” (Jon Jonckers)

Fall Mountain Biking Classes Offered Evergreen East Mountain Bike Alliance is

putting on a number of mountain biking skills classes that will offer something for all levels and ages of riders. New riders can build skills and gain confidence, and experienced riders will be surprised at how much they will gain by adding a full range of motion and balance to their already solid skill set. Evergreen’s classes offer a low student-to-instructor ratio for personalized feedback and instruction. Each skill is carefully demonstrated and broken down before progressing onto practice and drills. Instructors incorporate trail riding throughout each class so that

participants can try out new skills. Evergreen’s team of certified mountain bike instructors brings years of training and experience to each class.

The class schedule includes Mountain Biking for Kids September 9, and several Foundations of Mountain Biking classes, including level 1 for women (September 9), level 1 coed (September 16), level 2 coed (September 23), and level 2 for women (September 23). Evergreen is now also offering private coaching for individuals and small groups as well. Find all the class details and pricing information and register at Evergreeneast. org/skillsclasses. (OTM)

Washington State Climbing Gets a Makeover The

Washington

Climbers

Coalition

(WCC) and Access Fund recently launched a multi-year Washington Climbing Conservation Initiative to improve sustainability for popular climbing areas like the Gold Bar Boulders, Index, Tieton, and Exit 38’s Far Side. The Access Fund website reports that Gold Bar will get improved trail alignments after a recent clear cut, as well as a more sustainable landing zone for the Equinox boulder. Far Side at Exit 38 will see formalization of appropriate trails and closing of redundant social trails. The Jeep-Conservation Team will continue stabilization of the cliff-side trail and

staging areas at Index Lower Town Wall, a project they began in 2012. Finally, Tieton will see stabilization of staging areas and erosion control at the Royal Columns, a popular area for larger groups.

The Washington Climbing Conservation Initiative is receiving ongoing support from Northwest climbing-oriented businesses and organizations and is primed to make a big difference in the sustainability of central Washington’s climbing resources. For more information, visit Washingtonclimbers.org/index.php/stewardshipevents. (Jon Jonckers)

Paddle for a Free-flowing Snake River (Sept. 8-9) Hundreds of river advocates, recreational

boaters, tribal members, anglers, and conservationists will launch from Chief Timothy Park near Clarkston, Wash., on Saturday, September 9, for a six-mile roundtrip paddle and rally on the Snake River in support of removing the four lower Snake River dams. This peaceful, familyfriendly annual event has expanded to two days with camping, speakers, tribal drummers, and live music by Folkinception planned for Friday night at the park.

Boats will gather at 9 a.m. Saturday morning at the Chief Timothy boat launch for a 10 a.m. launch.

Canoes, kayaks, motor boats, drift boats and other river-worthy watercraft are welcome to join. Safe costumes and boat decorations celebrating salmon, orcas and free-flowing rivers are encouraged. The paddle will head 3 miles downriver for a rally on the river before returning to Chief Timothy. After the Flotilla there will be a celebration in the park with Spokane bands Atlas Hugged and Smackout Pack. Chief Timothy State Park is reserved for the event with some RV sites and plenty of room for tent-camping. Jose’s Taco Truck will be there Friday and Saturday evenings, and Nez Perce tribal members will be serving up grilled salmon for purchase on Saturday.

While the Flotilla is a celebration for the Snake River and its wild salmon and steelhead, organizers emphasize that the purpose of the event is to

send a serious message to Northwest governors and members of Congress that the construction of four high-cost, low-value dams have decimated the once abundant wild salmon and steelhead runs in the Snake River basin. Event organizers point to this year’s tragic collapse of wild Snake River steelhead runs that have led to harvest of the fish being shut down in the Snake River basin. With the low runs, Treaties with tribes are not being met and fishingdependent businesses and towns are expected to suffer this year, they say.

Advocates for a free-flowing river point out that the Snake River dams were built between 19601970 primarily for barge transportation, yet barging on the river has declined by 70 percent over the past 20 years as shippers have moved to other options. The power produced by the dams, they also note, could be easily replaced by renewables and more efficient energy use. Many scientists also say the single best thing to save crashing wild salmon and steelhead of the Columbia River Basin is the removal of the four lower Snake River dams, which would return the 140-mile lower Snake River corridor to a free-flowing state, restore more than 14,000 acres of land currently under water, and honor historic treaty rights of area tribes.

It would also be the greatest river restoration in history. For more information or to register, visit FreeTheSnake.com or contact Sam Mace at 509863-5696 or sam@wildsalmon.org. // (OTM) september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

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HikeOfTheMonth Bead Lake, Colville National forest

// By Holly Weiler

Bead Lake views // Photo: Holly Weiler

It’s wonderful to save Bead Lake for the shoulder season, when the majority of the boaters have

placed their pleasure crafts into winter storage and the mosquitoes have quieted down. There are usually a few warm days in September when it’s still nice to jump in the lake at the end of a hike. Even if the temperatures have cooled too much to make that enjoyable, the fall colors will be getting started and there will be plenty of animal activity to enjoy near the water. Be sure to bring binoculars for bird watching, and keep an eye out for any lingering huckleberries along the trail.

While the west side of Bead Lake is private and developed, the east side is bordered by the Colville National Forest, and the lake-hugging trail is long enough to provide a day hike for almost anyone’s taste.

Prefer to keep it short and play in the water? There’s a spot with good water access within the first mile from the trailhead, and it doubles as a pack-it-in, pack-it-out campsite for anyone seeking an easy overnight excursion. There are several similar spots along the trail, and for those who venture to the far northern end of the lake, the resulting out-and-back is approximately nine miles in total length. Since the trail follows the shoreline for the majority of the distance, the total elevation gain is only about 1,300 feet.

The trail includes enough up and downs to make it interesting, and the surrounding forest includes a wide variety of trees. There are large ponderosa pines with their vanilla-scented bark in the early miles, several large white pine trees (look for their long cones on the ground, then look up to spot their delicate needles), and a nice cedar grove at the farthest end of the lake. The short climbs into the treed sections keep the hike shady, but the trail always returns to lake level and offers a few options for hikers who want to take a break that includes a dip.

A rugged spur trail at the northern end of Bead can add a little extra to bring the distance up to 10; watch for the “more hiking” sign at the end of the lake. This last portion along the lakeshore is rarely maintained and can be narrow and rough. Another trail leads north and away from the lake, connecting to a Forest Service road in about another mile of hiking. To avoid repeating any of the hike, use this second access point to run a shuttle. Otherwise, turn around and enjoy seeing the shoreline from the opposite direction as you retrace your way back to the start. This is a multi-use trail popular with hikers, runners, backpackers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders, and sometimes hunters might use the trail in the fall. Brush up on trail etiquette and hunting seasons, and consider adding some orange to your fall wardrobe before you go. // Distance

Up to 10 miles round-trip.

Getting There: Travel Highway 2 north to Newport. Cross the bridge toward Oldtown and enter Idaho, then turn left immediately after the bridge and travel northwest on LeClerc Creek Road.

Watch for the marked intersection with Bead Lake Road on the right at 2.7 miles. Continue to Bead Lake. The best (free) access for hikers is via the dirt access road to a trailhead and parking lot above the lake, with a short and steep hike to the boat launch area. Hiker access from the boat launch itself requires a day use fee.

Give Back to Our Trails

National Public Lands Day Trail Work Party, Fishtrap Lake, September 30. Sign up at wta.org/volunteer. // 10

OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

River Rambles

Signs of river health to watch for from your tube, Sup, or kayak // By Jerry White Jr.

Found: debris. Where: Bottom of the Spokane River. // Photo: Jerry White Jr.

Our river is as beautiful as it is alive—espe-

cially when an osprey catches a fish in front of you or you spot otters eating crayfish. Then there’s the river floating camaraderie and sharing the day’s adventures over a cold beverage. Or, maybe you prefer just taking in the slow, sweet song of the waves along the willows. Whatever your reason for loving the river, I challenge all of us to also become aware of the other signs along the river that are a cry for help. Here is a quick rundown of the sights and smells that indicate the impacts of every-day pollution and also give us opportunities to leave the river a better place than we found it.

Earlier this season as I rounded the bend of the river in my drift boat and dropped through the rapid at the mouth of Hangman Creek, I noticed that a large shoal of sand had built up just off of the mouth of the creek. As we worked down river, the bottom of the river was covered in sand! It covered the boulders and filled in around them. Unfortunately, this sand is pollution and is a profound assault on the redband trout population. It suffocates insect habitat, covers trout nesting areas, and buries trout refuges—all because of terrible land-use practices in the upper Hangman Creek basin.

During certain years, these poor, and, in some cases, illegal practices, have filled the river during the flood events of February and March with sand. So the next time you are floating that stretch of river, look down at the sand. If you are hiking or biking the Centennial Trail, look for the light green shaded areas in the river below.

This is a sure sign that our tributaries are degrading river health. Shoreline protection is needed to begin reducing this sediment that runs from the land and into our river.

The second big sign you can notice is the smell of the Cochran basin outfall pipe below TJ Meenach Bridge on river right. This drains all of the storm water from the streets of the north side of Spokane. We recently got the call to inspect this outfall when a kayaker reported bad-smelling fluid

was running out of it. We tested the water, and the results showed that fecal coliform counts were actually very low. In spite of the signs of pollution, the good news is that the river was not receiving dry weather sewage or storm water. The fluid, it turns out, was return water from sprinklers hitting the streets. But this aware kayaker may catch a problem next time!

The last sign involves all of the senses: litter.

It dangles from the willows and blows along the beaches. Please encourage river users to pack out what they float in with. The Riverkeeper, with

2017 Newport Autumn Bloom 5K & 10K Fun Run

Newport Hospital & Health Plastics and micro plastics are Services Foundation becoming a huge issue in our environment, and recently a local student scientist found September 16th that whitefish in the river were 10 K is a Second T.J. Kelly Park 9AM indeed eating plastic. Seed Qualifier for (Corner of 1st St. and Washington Ave.) Bloomsday 2018! l

the help of volunteers, has picked up over 4,000 pounds of litter from the banks of the river this year. Plastics and micro plastics are becoming a huge issue in our environment, and recently a local student scientist found that whitefish in the river were indeed eating plastic. The impacts of plastic are becoming more real with each passing year.

So look, listen, and smell the beauty of nature.

Use your senses to understand the signs of pollution, then report it when you see it. After all, we all want to leave the river a better place than we found it. // Jerry White, Jr. is the Spokane Riverkeeper. He contributed a River Rambles column in July.

Newport, WA

Tourism support for 2017 Autumn Bloom is provided by City of Newport Hotel/Motel Tax Funds.

Register online at RaceRoster.com or download registration form at NewportHospitalAndHealth.org

Pre-registration Deadline: 9/12/2017

On-site Registration: 7:30AM - 8:30AM

Contact: Jenny Smith, Foundation Director OR Lori Stratton, Foundation Assistant (509) 447-7928 , ext. 4373 NHHSFoundation@nhhsqualitycare.org september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

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OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

RunWild fall trail favorites // By Dave Dutro

Warm weather and longer days make sum-

mer a favorite time to run for most people, but I love fall running. Fall colors bring out the best of Mother Nature in my opinion. I love fall because the days still heat up, but the cool, crisp mornings and changing colors are beautiful. Running on trails in the fall does bring additional considerations, though, because in most areas fall is hunting season. If you are out running on trails, please wear bright colored clothing and be careful. Here are some trails that I enjoy the most during this season.

Ragged Mountain at Mount Spokane: This trail is approximately 15 miles round trip and can be a little overgrown with very few visitors. The trail has rock outcroppings, open meadows and spectacular views. It’s a perfect run if you want to enjoy the golds and reds of fall. This would be considered a difficult route. Checkout Washington Trail Association for more information at Wta.org.

A Discover Pass is required.

Empire Trails, Spirit Lake, Idaho: These handbuilt trails overlooking Spirit Lake were originally designed for mountain bike use but also

Spokane Area Fall Trail Races make great running trails.

These trails are tight, winding singletrack with handmade bridges and excellent views for appreciating beautiful fall colors. For a short drive you get multiple choices for distance from 1 to 5 miles, with easy to moderate trails. For more information check out Spiritlakechamber. com/empire-trails. These trails are on Inland Paper property and you do need a permit that costs $2.50 daily and is available at the trailhead.

Painted Rocks: This trail has a bit of everything, fall colors, beautiful views, rock outcroppings, and Ragged Ridge a great location close to run. // photo: Dave Dutro Spokane. Painted Rocks is an approximate 6-mile loop and is rated as moderate. For more information go to: Trailrunproject.com/trail/7011234.

Discover Pass is required.

Of course, there are other great trails in the area, but many of them will take you close to active hunting areas. I would consider the above trails to be a bit safer than others since they are away from hunting traffic. What are you waiting for? #Werunthesetrails. // Dave Dutro is an American Trail Running Association Trail Ambassador and local Trail Maniac.

Trail Maniacs State Park Series #4 (September 9)

The Trail Maniacs’ fourth State Park Series race, which includes 10k, 25k, and 50k distances, takes place on the vast singletrack trail network that winds through Riverside State Park. Great prizes, exceptionally beautiful trails, camping at the Bowl & Pitcher campground (with showers), and the opportunity to share the joys of trail running with other friendly runners are some of the highlights.

More info at Trailmaniacs.com.

Sekani Trail Run (October 1)

The 9th annual trail run is a 5k/10k event (plus a free kids’ 1k) that takes place at Spokane’s Camp Sekani Park. Run, walk, or seriously race on beautiful, all-dirt trails above the Spokane River with a challenging course with 700 feet of elevation gain for the 10k run and great views of the city. Proceeds from the event benefit Franklin Elementary school’s APPLE program. More info at Sekanitrailrun.com.

Wild Moose Chase (October 7)

Eastern Washington University’s class of 2019 Doctor of Physical Therapy students are putting on the 7th Wild Moose Chase trail run as a fundraiser during one of the best times of the year up on Mt. Spokane. The three courses start from Selkirk lodge and include 5k and 10k courses that follow the Nordic trails and a 25k course that uses a mixture of double and singletrack trails. Don’t miss this chance to escape into the fresh, fall mountain air.

More info at facebook.com/wildmoosechasetrailrun.

september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

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Kids++++++

++++++ Explore locally // amy s. mccaffree

can you help children feel more connected to flora and fauna rather than Facebook? What nature have you neglected to introduce them to?

Here are some simple ways to be more intentional about learning from the nature where you live.

1. Begin with your own front yard or neighborhood. Consider the natural habitat

Touching the skin of a frog is a sensory experience evey kid should enjoy. // photo: Amy S. Mccaffree

When competing with iPhones and apps, nature

may seem “boring”—but it doesn’t have to be that way. “If we want children to flourish, to become truly empowered, then let us allow them to love the earth before we ask them to save it,” states David Sobel in his 1996 book “Beyond Ecophobia: Reclaiming the Heart in Nature Education.”

Other experts agree. In her 2016 TED Talk, environmental science writer Emma Marris says, “We are stealing nature from our children...we’ve started to define nature in a way that’s so purist and so strict that, under the definition we’re cre-

ating for ourselves, there won’t be any nature left for our children when they’re adults.” She explains that we should define nature to include anything with plants and animals, like empty urban lots and street trees. She goes on to say that “…the only way we’re going to raise up a generation of people who care about nature is by letting them touch nature... because that which is untouched is unloved…If we have a generation that doesn’t know how to build a fort, we’ll have a generation that doesn’t know how to care about nature.”

These experts raise important questions: How

you live. What trees and flowers do you see? What wild birds and insects are around? Overturn large rocks, logs, or garden-landscaping stones to explore what insects and crawling creatures are hiding underneath. Play a nature-only version of the “I Spy” game. Go outside after dark and listen carefully—are there any crickets or frogs? Look and listen for bats, magpie, quail, owl, woodpecker, chickadee, and robin; observe a flock of sparrows and their synchronized flying. If you’re not on a time schedule, stop and observe that group of wild turkeys crossing the road, the robin pulling a worm out of the grass, or the hawk soaring in the wind drift above you.

2. Let your kids interact with nature by using all of their senses—smell the pine

cone, taste the wild huckleberry and clover flower nectar, listen to the birds, feel the bird feather on the ground. Let them play in a dirt pit, make mud pies, collect rocks, carry sticks, and, of course, build a fort.

3. Teach your children how to recognize specific plants and wildlife and know species names. You don’t have to become an

expert, but try to learn the names of the most

common wildflowers and animal species in the Inland Northwest: osprey, bald eagle, muskrat, beaver, rainbow trout, white-tailed deer, swallowtail butterflies, arrowleaf balsam root leaf flowers, bracken fern, stinging nettles, skunk cabbage, Ponderosa pines and Western hemlocks, and the list goes on. When we know something by name, we care more about it. Libraries have books published by National Geographic, Mountaineers Books, Falcon, Timber Press, and others. One helpful resource is the “National Audubon Society Field Guide to the Pacific Northwest,” which is published by Knopf. Well-illustrated books combined with hands-on experiences create memorable learning.

4. Get dirty with your kids. Sit down, observe, and touch nature together. Relax, have fun, and know that every interaction with nature matters.

5. Explore the near and far wild places around you. Look closely at the diver-

sity of overgrown weeds and grasses in the empty lot. Check out the uncontained borders of the Spokane River and along the Centennial Trail.

Be daring: consider not mowing your lawn for a year and see what kind of wild meadow landscape grows, attracting bees and butterflies—a simple, no-fuss xeriscape. When you venture further from home, such as to a state park or national forest, take along a field guide to help identify trees and wildflowers. // Amy S. McCaffree is the Special Section Editor for OTM. You can follow her on Facebook @ AmyOutdoorsSpokane.

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OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

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Eatology

the beverage market as a gateway drug // By Ammi Midstokke

Every Saturday and Wednesday

Through October

coffee, a natural energizer.

Photo: Shallan Knowles

Both times I’ve consumed energy drinks rank highly in my poor judgment hall-of-fame, right up there with the time in college I dated a guy who thought I was his brother from a past life.

Surprisingly, that was not our last conversation.

The first time I had Red Bull was with Jaegermeister, and I would like to defend the Germans for their part in all this. Jaeger is a ‘digestif ’ to be consumed in sips after a hearty meal with the intent of aiding in digestion—presumably after eating a ridiculously huge meal of wild boar sausage and sauerkraut on grey bread. They never intended for it to be chugged by sunburned British tourists in Ibiza to a techno soundtrack.

The next time I consciously chose this liquid form of methamphetamine-esque syrup was a post-mountaineering adventure. I needed to get home on limited sleep, so I grabbed a sugar-free can of fizz at a gas station. I figured risking cancer and neurological atrophy would be better than a blood-sugar crash.

For the next six hours, I partied in the front of my truck like it was Ibiza all over again. I was alive and I had been mountaineering and I could live forever! I was invincible. Unstoppable. Until the juice ran dry.

I pulled into my mother’s driveway, strung out and smelling of detox and stale climber’s sweat, singing Neil Young. “I love you baby/Can I have some more…?”

There is a market that is ripe for these kinds of energy drinks, motivated by an entire society that burns the candle at both ends. Everywhere we look, we see beverages that promise to enhance mental clarity, elevate energy, avoid afternoon crashes, and increased sex drive. As outdoors people, athletes, mothers, and weekend warriors, we are often looking for a way to have all of the above. It is hard to ignore the siren song of caffeine and guarana (a more exotic form of caffeine) when trimmed with nutritional hype like “B vitamin rich!”

But here’s the reality: You cannot rob Peter to pay Paul. Telling your body it has energy it doesn’t really have is a lie that will, like all lies, catch up to you. It comes in the form of adrenal fatigue, blood sugar dysregulation, diabetes, heart palpitations, and, you guessed it, a decrease in sex hormone production (see: plummeting libido).

The National Institute of Health (NIH) is issuing warning after warning about energy drinks, like the dangers of unmeasurable caffeine as some beverages have up to 500 mg. If you don’t know what that feels like, I’m guessing it’s comparable to coming off dirty crack and homemade lemonade. The NIH

∙veggies ∙eggs ∙meats ∙breads ∙honey ∙bedding plants also warns against combining caffeine with alcohol.

Teenagers are especially at risk because, instead of passing out after two Zimas and a shake spliff like we did in my day, they are able to consume more and for far longer.

So what should we be drinking? Let’s be honest—even the hoity-toity nutritionist would need rehab to get off her morning coffee. Here are some better choices that actually provide nourishment: 1. Water. Duh. Studies show that even mild dehydration can lead to fatigue, decreased blood pressure, headaches, depression, and reduced cognitive ability. Also, water is free. Feeling low? Chug a glass and wait 10 minutes.

2. A nap. Okay, so you can’t really drink a nap. But if you’re feeling too exhausted to bike after work with the boys and have to pound that rock concert in a can in order to rally, chances are you would be better off getting some sleep. For real. If your body doesn’t have energy, it’s because you are out of it.

Taking a stimulant requires several systems of your body to spring into action, both to regulate your blood sugars, have a stress response (there are those adrenals again), pump out some cortisol, and make you push yourself harder than you would or should.

3. Coconut water. Want some calories and electrolytes? A little coconut water will go a long way without the sensation that you’re indebted to a Colombian drug lord. This is a great pre-workout/ adventure beverage.

4. Coffee. I don’t recommend drinking caffeine after noon because, as your cortisol (stress response hormones) levels drop during the day, your melatonin (sleepy time hormones) begin to increase.

Caffeine can disrupt this natural circadian cycle.

Yet studies also show it can improve athletic performance and fat burning when consumed before exercise. In small amounts, not emergency-roompanic-attack visit amounts. Turn your cup of joe into a nutritional delight by adding some good fats.

You can even find collagen infused coffee now, or coffee with cordyceps, which are fancy mushrooms with anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects (both available from locally produced Defiant Coffee). They are all the rage right now, for good reason.

Perhaps most importantly, listen to your body. If it is telling you that it needs energy, it’s not suggesting you get it from a can. // When Ammi is not chasing her first love (trails), she is preaching her second (food) as a Nutritional Therapist. To find out more about saving the world with kale or the misadventures of a single mom, visit her website at www.twobirdsnutrition.com.

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september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

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OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

One Wheel Wonder

Local Unicycle Rider Represents at National Events

by Janelle McCabe

On the centennial trail. Photo: Jon Jonckers. // right: riding the arches at Gas Works Park in Seattle.

Photo courtesy of phil Sanders. // Bottom: Fixing a Wheel at Spain World Champs. Photo: Lara Beins

“I’d been riding my unicycle for miles in the

middle of the desert. My legs were on fire. I had no water. I couldn’t see anyone ahead of or behind me. And I was like, ‘this is the greatest moment of my life’.” Phil Sanders, a competitive unicyclist who lives in Spokane, is a glutton for physical punishment. That’s what I concluded after he told this story and several others about his adventures in unicycling. The 30-year-old has ridden unicycles for more than half of his lifetime, and he’s racked up several medals at every competitive level.

When we spoke, Sanders had just returned from the North American Unicycling Convention and Championships (NAUCC), an annual, weeklong event, where he served as director of the trials events. He also competed, winning a gold medal in the flatland trick competition.

NAUCC is a place for unicycle enthusiasts and athletes to get together and hang out, but it’s also a place for them to compete. “It’s pretty much the Olympics of unicycling,” Sanders says. “Every event in the unicycling world is represented there.”

He’s not exaggerating. Unicyclists compete in track and field events including sprints, relays, one-footed races (where riders use only one pedal), backward races, long jump, and high jump.

Freestyle events are similar to figure skating: costumed riders compete as singles, doubles, and teams and perform choreographed routines for nine-judge panels. Trials events require riders to clear several obstacles, or lines, within a specific time block, all while being judged. Trials riders have a scorecard and get one point for every line they clear. Cyclocross athletes ride as many laps around an obstacle-ridden course as they can in a given amount of time, dismounting and carrying their unicycles over unrideable obstacles. Flatland unicyclists ride in an urban setting, executing tricks and competing in battle format: two riders take turns doing tricks, one-upping each other as they go.

Unicycling even embraces team sports: hockey, basketball, and an unofficial game of “flaming hockey,” where athletes wait until the sun goes down before they set a puck on fire and proceed with their game.

Before his trials events began at this year’s championships, Sanders and his team spent two days building obstacles and marking courses. Around 400 riders participated in the event this year, which was in Seattle, but other years have attracted more than 700 riders. “Big events like this are by and for unicyclists— they take a lot of grassroots effort and passion,” Sanders says.

Sanders, however, was not born with this passion.

Seventeen years ago, he was a distractible seventh-grader when his gym class teacher at Glover Middle School taught a two-week unit on unicycling.

“I was right in the middle of that childhood phase where I’d pick something up, try it once, and never try it again. I had a guitar, a keyboard, a pogo stick, and juggling stuff, so when I asked for a unicycle for Christmas, my parents were like, ‘uh, what else do you want?’ I said, ‘Nothing.

A unicycle is all I want.’ So they got me one and to their surprise, I just never stopped. I don’t know what it was—but I just got addicted to it.”

A few years later, a friend gave Sanders a VHS of the movie “Universe I,” a movie about extreme unicycling tricks in urban and off-road environments.

“I lost my mind,” he recounts. “The first year after I watched that move, I ruined 10 unicycles trying to take them off drops, going down stairs, everything.

But I haven’t broken a single bone yet!”

Sanders went to his first unicycling event, the Moab Mountain Unicycle Festival, in 2006. There, he met dozens of unicyclists, including Kris Holm, a rock star in the unicycling community. “One day, on the Porcupine Rim Trail, I ran into Kris Holm, who’d just stumbled on an obstacle in the trail. I rode past him and hit it just right, and I couldn’t believe it. Two seconds later I crashed. He picked my unicycle up, sat down next to me, and we had a nice little chat. When I got home from that trip,

At the 2012 world championships in Italy, Sanders won a bronze medal in his age group for the high jump, which involved jumping his unicycle over a bar 90 centimeters high

everything took a back seat to unicycling.”

Finally, Sanders decided to compete. In 2008, he went to the national championships for the first time and promptly won a medal: third place in his age group in the trials events. Since then, he’s won several bronze, silver, and gold medals at state, national, and world championships. At the 2012 world championships in Italy, Sanders won a bronze medal in his age group for the high jump, which involved jumping his unicycle over a bar 90 centimeters high—a half-inch shy of a yard.

“I like the pressure of competition, but I don’t really like the competitiveness,” Sanders reflects. “When I’m out trying to do tricks and obstacles, I’m really just competing with myself and my own abilities.”

Sanders doesn’t sugar-coat it: unicycling is hard.

It’s not the initial learning that’s hard, he says, but everything beyond that. “If you’re not looking for an activity that’s pretty much hard all the time, unicycling might not be for you. I’ve been doing this for 17 years, and I’m still learning new skills and tricks, but that’s what I love about it—I like that it’s always hard, always challenging, and I never feel like I’ve maxed out my skills.” Unicycling works your legs and core, and that’s exactly why many regular cyclists and other athletes use a unicycle to cross-train.

Age is not a limiting factor. “I’ve met kids as young as three who could ride unicycles,” Sanders says, “and several riders in their 70s. I’ve met families where every member could ride. I have also met men and women who started riding in their 50s and 60s, and now I see them at every event I go to. You really can’t be too young or too old to start.”

Entry-level unicycles are available for $70-100, and Sanders says they’re sufficient for learning basic

skills. He recommends Spoke ‘N Sport in downtown Spokane. “At their shop, Justin does all the work on my wheels, and he does an amazing job. He even got a specialized unicycle truing stand adapter to work on my wheels so he can make them perfect every time.” For unicyclists looking for a more specialized ride, Sanders recommends unicycle.com.

Equally as important as the unicycle is the protective gear, and Sanders’ voice grows emphatic when he describes the importance of shin pads and plastic pedals. “When you’re learning to ride,” he says, “your shoe often slips off the pedal, and you hit either the front of your shin or the back of your calf on the pedal. If you aren’t wearing shin pads, you’ll have as many scars and bruises as I do.”

And of course, gloves and a helmet are a no-brainer.

Sanders also wears ankle braces and elbow pads.

The Unicycling Society of America has established 10 skill levels that progress from mounting and dismounting to riding backward and onefooted to completing a 180-degree spin. Sanders agrees that beginning unicyclists should first learn to mount without assistance, and then add skills like turning in both directions, hopping in place, and idling (rocking back and forth in place).

“Everything clicks eventually,” Sanders insists.

“If you’re struggling, keep practicing. It’s going to click. Every unicyclist has had that struggle where you try and try and try a new skill, and then one day, you get it. And then you move on to the next challenge.” // Janelle McCabe is the former managing editor for OTM. She wrote about the Leavenworth Half Marathon and the Spokane Marathon Relay in August.

september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

17

fall = cycling

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Step into the season with new wheels...

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OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

Missoula’s Black Coffee Roasting Company

In a town where local is the new black, Missoula’s Black Coffee Roasting Company has been the place to get locally-roasted coffee since 2010. From the start, owners Jim Chapman and Matt McQuilkin committed to serving only 100% organic coffees, “because it is important for the people producing the coffee, the landscape the coffee is grown in, and the people drinking it.” Their AM (espresso blend) and PM (decaf) are at the core of their lineup, but it is their single origin beans and seasonal blends (BLOOM, TOPO, and DRIFT) that truly communicate Black Coffee’s self-imposed obligation to build farmer-to-roaster relationships and “support those growing great coffee.”

Located close to downtown Missoula, Black Coffee roasts and serves in a semicircular, 5,000-square-foot Quonset hut. The café not only pulls espresso, but they also pour “Slow Coffee”— pour over and Chemex—and cold brew. Their Mint Infused Cold Brew, first released in 2016, is a must taste, especially during the sweltering summer months. You can also help yourself to self-serve drip coffee with its $2 suggested donation jar. Their menu rounds out with teas, shrubs—a tonic made with fruit, sugar, and vinegar added to soda water— and a scrumptious list of toasts.

Chapman and McQuilkin undeniably pay forward the love Montanans have for their home state and the awe-inspiring landscapes that surround them. Black Coffee’s Instagram feed (@blackcoffee.mt) posts more images of Montana sunrises, sunsets, and mountainscapes than coffee. Their hats, shirts, mugs, bandanas, travel coffee kits, coffee bags, and other merchandise embrace the outdoors with local art and graphics. Their motto is #wander…always with coffee. So, next time you take a trek to explore the Bitterroot Mountains, take Black Coffee with you and enjoy a steaming #montanamoment. (S. Michal Bennett)

pull up a chair and enjoy a mug. // Photo: S. Michal Bennett

Hard Frescos Brewing Co.

Walk into many Mexican restaurants, and you will find a variety of aguas frescas on the menu to accompany your tacos. These sweet, traditional beverages are made from fruits like tamarind or guava, grains and nuts like rice or almonds, or from flowers like hibiscus. Inspired by these drinks, San Francisco’s Hard Frescos Brewing Co. launched a line of frescos in 2013 that are brewed with natural ingredients and fermented with a blend of fruits, extracts, and yeast, introducing a new libation to the craft beverage market.

These alcoholic frescos come in three truly refreshing flavors: Juicy Jamaica (Hibiscus), Guava Citrico, and Tangy Tamarindo. The jamaica is definitely juicy, and the hibiscus gives it a deep pink color. Although it’s sweet, it’s still light on the palate.

The guava pours with a heavenly aroma of navel oranges, and drinks clean, with a touch of tropical flavor on the end. The tamarindo is the driest of the bunch but still carries a punch of flavor. Mix it 1:1 with Mexican beer and serve with a lime to create a lively Mexican shandy.

In addition to being easy-to-drink, Hard Frescos come in at only 5.7% alcohol. They are also considered gluten-free, even though a small amount of malt is added to the recipes to categorize them as “malt beverages.” Brand new to the Inland Northwest, and only available on the Idaho side, you can grab some cans for the trail, lake, or road at Pilgrim’s Market in Coeur d’Alene, Enoteca in Post Falls, and The Beverage Stop in Rathdrum. You can also enjoy a sparkling glass of fresco with your meal at Nadine’s Mexican Kitchen in Rathdrum, The Hound in Sandpoint, and Panhandle Pizza in Priest River. Salud! // (S. Michal Bennett) S. Michal Bennett is a regular Buzz Bin contributor.

She also wrote about state flowers and birds in July.

Biking

cyclocross

Family, Spectator, and Rider Friendly Fun! // By Bradley Bleck

Young racers taking on the Rolling Thunder course in Missoula // photo: Bradley Bleck

If there is a story that captures the essence of

cyclocross, it’s the story of Ciara MacDonald’s first race at 8 years old. Her father, Bryan MacDonald, and two brothers were racing cyclocross at the time. Ciara would bring her bike and ride around the course. At the final race of the season, she insisted on racing despite wet and frigid conditions. Her father tried to talk her out of it, but she persisted. She raced through the mud and crashed in an ice puddle, but she finished cold, muddy, and wet. During the awards ceremony, she was called up to the podium and given a standing ovation for her efforts. Her father says that’s what hooked her, all the way to several appearances at CX Junior Nationals.

For the uninitiated, cyclocross is a hybrid of road and mountain biking. The races are held on relatively short courses and last 45 minutes (or less for juniors), which makes the sport challenging, fun, and family and spectator friendly. Riders go up and down ramps and stairs, through standing and running water, through mud and sand, and over barriers. They haul their bikes up steep hills that may or may not have spectators handing out liquid refreshments or heckling competitors (albeit in a supportive way).

All of this makes cyclocross the perfect entry into bicycle racing. CX develops the endurance needed for road racing and the technical skills needed for mountain bike racing. CX requires technical skills for maneuvering around tight, slippery corners on off-camber grass slopes, and the mountain biker’s ability to ride out technical descents into a mud bog. Additionally, having the “right” equipment is less important. Many racers start on mountain bikes before buying a cross bike. Some racers stick with the mountain bike.

While many CX riders are out for blood (mostly their own), everyone is out for the fun. Michael

Emde of Emde Sports says one of the reasons CX is popular is the party atmosphere, where “everyone is having fun and no one is looking at your place.

Getting dropped is not so demoralizing as it is in road racing.” Thanks to the shorter laps, spectators get to see racers multiple times—a plus for parents watching their kids and kids watching and razzing their parents. “The spectators are yelling and screaming. People are having fun [while] getting a workout,” Emde explains.

At a recent School of Cross Junior CX team meeting, parents and riders agreed that cyclocross is fun. Coach Tom Ryse gives the same reasons as Emde when explaining why riders and spectators enjoy the sport. He adds that the kids and adults race the same course. When they participate as a family, the parents and kids can talk about the race and the course. More important, perhaps, are the friendships that develop among the riders on the team. “I guess that’s what makes it fun,” says Ryse.

“It’s fun!” is the reason each of the SoC riders gave when asked about why they race cyclocross.

Liza Mattana says her daughter Maddie finds riding and racing fun because the smaller group of kids who make up the team is a good fit. “It’s a good community,” Mattana says. “They keep coming back because they like riding with each other.”

Some of the parents even end up following their children into the races. They come out to support their kids, see them having fun, and decide to give it a try themselves. If this sounds like fun to you, even if you don’t have children, come out and give it a whirl. You’ll be glad you did. // Bradley Bleck teaches English courses at Spokane Falls Community College and loves to bike no matter the weather. He wrote about tips for booking vacation rentals in June.

Inland Northwest Fall Cyclocross Races Wildwest CX Series See Wildwestcxseries.com for current information.

• September 16 & 17: Helena, Mont.

• September 30 & October 1: Sandpoint, Idaho • October 14 & 15: Bozeman, Mont.

• October 28: Missoula, Mont. (Finals) Inland NW CX See Inlandnwcyclocross.com for current information.

• October 7: Cougar Cross WSU Campus • October 8: Palouse CX at Sky Ranch, Moscow, Idaho • October 15: Riverstone, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho • October 22: Riverside State Park, Spokane • November 5: Walla Walla, Wash.

• November 12: Walter’s Fruit Ranch, (Greenbluff) Mead, Wash. FINALS

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september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

19

PNW

COAST

Find Authentic Adventure on the PNW Coast in Westport, Washington

By Derrick Knowles & Phil Linden

There are plenty of places along the Pacific Northwest coast to experience run-of-the-mill tourist

beach town amenities for people who are only looking to drive the local sites, poke around polished tourist traps, and maybe do a little beachcombing. Visiting a real-deal ocean town to explore, taste, and throw your adventurous soul into is a much more rare and rewarding find. And that is the magic of a trip to the authentic Pacific Coast town of Westport, Washington.

Westport sits around two hours west of Seattle (seven hours from Spokane) on the end of a peninsula that borders the Pacific to the west and juts out into the south side of the mouth of Grays Harbor. The small fishing town, which attracts a growing number of surfers and tourists, is home to the largest marina on the outer coast of the Pacific Northwest and hosts a colorful fleet of commercial and recreational fishing vessels that are worth checking out from the publicly accessible piers.

10 Things to Do in Westport If you Don’t Surf, Fish, or Fat Bike

There are plenty of cool things to do and see around Westport that anyone with a sturdy pair of legs, sense of adventure, and interest in nature and history can experience. After nearly two decades-worth of trips to the area, I’ve found these to be reliable favorites: 1. Park at Westhaven State Park and go beachcombing south from the jetty as far as you care to walk.

2. Take a walking tour of town and out to the end of Neddie Rose Drive to the boardwalk. Watch the surf, birds, and boats coming and going in the harbor.

3. Visit the little aquarium right in town or go out on the water with a whale-watching charter if viewing animals behind glass isn’t your thing.

4. Take a historic trip back in time on a tour through the Maritime Museum.

5. Walk the 2-mile roundtrip Westport Light Trail, a paved path along the beach, to see dunes, grasslands, and coastal conifers and birds.

6. Check out the unique shops and buy a good book, a bag of saltwater taffy, a bottle of wine, and a kite and hit the beach for endless hours of fun.

7. Wander out as far as you dare on the south jetty from Westhaven State Park.

8. Pay a visit to Washaway Beach south of Westport, where dozens of homes and part of a highway, which can sometimes be seen poking out of the sand, have eroded into the ocean over the past 100 plus years.

9. Build an epic sand castle and take a nap in it.

10. Visit the 107-foot-tall Grays Harbor light house.

Beach Fat Biking

A few years back, I joined my buddy and co-author of this article and another friend for a nearly 30-mile out-and back, post-surfing ride on fat bikes on the wet sand south from Westhaven State Park to Washaway Beach. We rode mostly along the retreating waterline of an outgoing tide on the firm, shelllittered sand. We saw a handful of beach walkers, plenty of gulls and other birds, and smelled long before we rode up on it the putrid and fascinating carcass of a dead whale.

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OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

Washaway Beach, a spot that has been slowly eroding for the last hundred years, taking houses, trees, and highway with it, was a dreary, endlessly interesting post-apocalyptic site. As we pedaled through the ruins, we passed the concrete walls of a long-lost septic tank laying isolated and half buried in the sand at the tideline. Riding fat bikes on the tacky, wet sand with the crashing surf at your side and the sea breeze blowing through your hair is about as fun as riding a bike gets, and Westport is the perfect place to give it a try. If you don’t have your own bike, bring a rental with you from wherever home is or pick one up at a shop in Tacoma or Olympia along the way.

Out & About in Westport

You may come for the wave riding, the sprawling sandy beaches, or the mesmerizing sound of the surf, but don’t miss the chance to engage with Westport’s marine life more directly. Sign up for a fishing or whale-watching charter; rent and throw out your own crab pots; or walk the marina docks and listen to the squawking sound of gulls and haunting barks of sea lions.

Then there’s tasting and savoring the local saltwater flavors. Enjoy a seafood meal at one of several downtown restaurants or shop for fresh, local crab, clams, shrimp, oysters, and fish from one of the seafood markets to cook back at your hotel room or condo. Taking the time for at least one slow meal derived largely from locally harvested ingredients is the best and quickest way to start to wrap your mind (and stomach) around Westport and the vast, blue ocean that nearly surrounds it. For eating out, try Bennett’s Fish Shack, Blackbeard’s Brewing Co., or the Aloha Alabama BBQ & Bakery.

Where to Stay

Over the years, I’ve spent the night in a wide variety of Westport accommodations, ranging from Spartan dirtbag camp spots and budget motels, to more comfortable and modern digs. There are several great campgrounds around Westport, but if you plan to be in the water or out in the elements a lot, especially during the often colder and wetter fall and winter season, consider renting a room where hot showers and a kitchen will make your trip that much more pleasant.

On my last trip to Westport this past March with the family, we rented a two-bedroom, full kitchen condo from Vacations by the Sea right on the beach near the lighthouse. This was by far the nicest, most modern place I’ve stayed on the Pacific Northwest coast. Our unit was incredibly clean and comfortable, with a fully-outfitted kitchen that made cooking up our own seafood feasts fun and easy. The place started to feel like home after a long weekend.

The balcony was literally within seashell chucking distance from the high tide line, which meant we enjoyed the rhythmic rumble of pounding surf from the living room. Vacations by the Sea has several dozen rental units (including pet-friendly ones), a year-round hot tub, seasonal heated swimming pool, and fitness center, and it is right across the street from the paved path that goes all the way to Westhaven State Park. Find room availability and make reservations at Vacationbythesea.com. (DK) Learning to Surf at Westport

Becoming a surfer while living in the Inland Northwest is not only attainable, it’s as unique a journey as any surfer’s origin story. Embrace the beaches that are few on crowds and rarely make the magazines or the forecast sites. Surfing in

Westport beachfront. photo: Phil Linden.

This row: phil linden // Derrick knowles // Shallan Knowles

the Northwest gives you a unique opportunity to enjoy the ride and make your own way through the waves. Here are a few basics to get you headed to Westport, a great surf spot for everyone from beginner to expert depending on the season, swell, and conditions.

Achieving success with surfing is multi-factorial—conditions, conditioning, instruction, and desire will determine much of your progression.

Surfing is complex, but taking advantage of available resources and training will be the basis of going from foam-baller to gnar shredder. Wind is what makes waves, and it’s also what destroys them; in short, you want waves created thousands of miles away to travel to you untouched by cross winds or chop. Fortunately, there are surf forecast sites like magic seaweed with fairly accurate reports for the Westport area.

When surfing Westport, I like waves less than five feet (close to double overhead when standing at the bottom of it), and winds preferably less than 15 mph (ideally out of the east and offshore).

Winds tend to be calmer, and waves tend to be more organized early in the morning. Initially you will start out riding smaller whitewater waves (aka foam balls), so ideal conditions are somewhat subjective.

Where to Go: Westport’s West Haven State Park has a large jetty that deposits sand and provides ideal conditions for learning. Free of urchins, stingrays, and sharp corals, Westport’s waves break in shallow water and roll in along a sandy, uniform bottom creating a perfect set up for a new surfer to catch waves. Everyone starts out on whitewater waves. Essentially just wait for the wave to break, in about chest-deep water. The rush of whitewater will push you toward the beach and as soon as

you feel stable, ‘pop-up’ to your feet and ride your first wave. Stay low and experiment with turning the board and adjust your position to trim the board out. As your ride comes to an end and you are jumping/ falling off the board, be smart and never enter the water head-first; always fall flat to prevent head and neck injuries.

Perfect Practice Makes Perfect: Surfing has never been easier to learn with the availability of

in-person lessons and how-to-videos on YouTube. You can have a firm grasp on the basics of wave catching, paddling, and ‘pop-ups’ long before you make your first safari. Be sure to enter the water with the right attitude: “Practice does not make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect,” said Vince Lombarti Jr. Remember that you are there to learn: self-examine what you are doing right and wrong and make improvements with each subsequent wave. The stoke in surfing is getting the best ride of your life, which is all relative to your learning and progression.

The first time you paddle a board should not be the day you arrive in Westport. Conditioning and working on some basic moves beforehand will go a long way. With the availability of SUPs, you can always be refining aspects of your surfing, no matter how far you are from the beach. River surfing is the best complement to ocean surfing, and the Inland Northwest has some of the best river waves. Paddling, wave catching, popping-up, turns, trim, and board walking are all completely transferable between ocean and river surfing. Conditioning can take the form of SUP prone paddle workouts, thus making you a wavecatching beast. Surfing does not stop when you leave the sand; it’s your unique interaction with the sport, the lifestyle, and the natural environment that will define your experience.

In the spirit of travel and companionship, start your adventure with a cup of Chronic coffee. Illustrated by our friend, artist Josh Quick.

Available at select retailers, in the DOMA coffee lab and online.

Gearing Up: Having the right gear is so important, and the right wetsuit is key. Personally I like to surf with boots, gloves and hood in addition to my wetsuit in the cool water of the Pacific Northwest coast. I don’t want my session limited by getting cold. Westport has a few different surf shops where you can rent boards, wetsuits, and other gear and inquire about lessons. During the summer the shops are open seven days a week. Off-season conditions and shop hours make contacting the shop before you make the trip a necessity. Come winter, large Pacific storms can make conditions deadly, complete with large waves, drift logs, and dangerous riptides, so always be aware of what you’re getting into. // (PL) Upcoming Westport Events • September 2: 71st Annual Seafood Festival • September 9: Brady’s World Famous Oyster Feed • September 16-18: 20th Annual 30 Miles of Junque massive yard sale • September 22-23: Westport Maritime Festival (music and salmon!)

• September 22-24: 16th Annual Cleanwater Classic Surf Contest • September 30: 1st Annual Reach the Beach Race • October 14-15: Cranberry Harvest Festival

domacoffee.com september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

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OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

Creek

Tucked away in the woods just two miles from where Gold Creek splashes into Lake Pend Oreille sits an exceptional retreat: the Gold Creek Lodge. The almost ghost town of Lakeview is close by, a reminder of the gold rush of the 1850s. This newly renovated lodge was originally a brothel servicing disappointed miners, Lakeview residents, and other lonely folk. It then operated as a resort, after which it garnered a storied reputation as the Happy Hermit.

Dave McCahill discovered the place on the real estate market about three years ago and after a brief look-see, decided to buy it. Although it was timeworn and in much need of repair, he envisioned its potential. Now in its second operational year, Gold Creek Lodge is beginning to transform into a place that once existed only in McCahill’s brain.

I decided that the best way to discover Gold Creek Lodge was to immerse myself in its seclusion.

Although the Lodge is car-accessible, my husband Young and I opted for the more scenic and faster route on the Bayview Boat Shuttle. The lake greeted us with clear skies and calm waters as Captain Wes Jones ferried us to the Lakeview dock in his 22-foot Duckworth.

After disembarking, Jones drove us the short distance through Lakeview and then the forest before delivering us to the Lodge’s broad graveled driveway. The full-service hotel, restaurant, and bar were bustling with overnight guests, weekend campers, diners, and daytrippers. McCahill and his girlfriend, Kelli, met us on the restaurant porch and invited us in for a drink and a bite to eat. Halfway through our meal, Young looked at me and said, “I think that is one of the best burgers I’ve ever had in the Inland Northwest.”

The next day we ordered the Bunco Burger again with sweet potato fries, a small pizza, and the Golden Grilled Cheese. We told ourselves it was because we forgot to take pictures the first time, but it was truly delicious food, plain and simple.

The breakfast menu, served from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m., was just as straightforward, with four menu items including an impeccable egg, bacon, and cheese biscuit; pancakes; and Dave’s Usual—two eggs, two slices of bacon, and toast. Lodge manager Bascom Palmer also informed us that Wednesday nights

they served all-you-can-eat spaghetti, and the chef weekly crafted dinner specials.

I could talk about food for pages, but Gold Creek isn’t just a restaurant. Its fundamental aspiration is to be North Idaho’s premier outdoor adventure lodge. So, let’s talk adventure.

Gold Creek Lodge is surrounded on all sides

by National Forest. McCahill reminded us that Bernard Peak and Packsaddle Mountain are “in our backyard.” With such easy accessibility, McCahill is creating the perfect basecamp for hikers, kayakers, wake surfers, foragers, mountain bikers, and dirt bikers during the summer, as well as tele skiers, snowshoers, backcountry skiers, snowmobilers, and snow bikers during the winter. The adventure options are endless and for all ages, pursuits, and skills.

During our stay, we paddleboarded with Kelli along the lakeshore on the lodge’s inflatable rental boards and explored the trails that ran the circumference of the property. After all the sun, activity, and food, the soft beds and clean rooms ushered us quickly into sleep. We stayed in one of the nine revitalized hotel rooms, each with two queen beds, a large screen TV, cozy bathroom, and fluffy white towels. A nearby campground offered newly groomed trailer and RV spaces, accompanied by a chic outhouse. A partially-constructed yurt sat on the other side of the pond near the road that, next summer, will lead to a secluded tent campground on the back of the property.

Although McCahill has a house in Coeur d’Alene, he spends most of his time during the summer, and some during the winter, in his apartment above the Lodge’s massive garage. KTM dirt bike rentals, guests’ bikes and McCahill’s motorbikes, mountain bikes, and other outdoor gear occupied the garage during our tour of the buildings.

His mannerisms, conversations, and collection of motorized and non-motorized vehicles made it obvious that he is passionate—not just about getting out and enjoying the wonders of North Idaho, but also about this place and culture he is building around him. In Palmer’s words, “Whether we make money with this place or not, for us, it’s all about the ride and the adventure.”//

NE

OREGON

peak bagging in the wallowas By paul chisholm

matterhorn // photos: paul chisholm

The scene that greeted us in Joseph, Oregon, wasn’t the one we expected. Sure, the snowcapped peaks loomed over the quaint, old-timey storefront—vestiges of the town’s history as a timber and agriculture hub. But there were also cars— old, impossibly shiny cars—and lots of them.

It was the annual Oregon Mountain Cruise, and vintage cars were parked up and down the main drag. A quick, 5-minute gas fill-up quickly turned into a leisurely tour of the show. Owners stood proudly by their vehicles, ready to chat with me about carburetors, exhaust fans, and other mechanical details that I pretended to know about.

Although I’m not exactly a classic car aficionado, I was drawn in by the story behind each vehicle: Who originally bought it? What did they use it for?

And what did it take to restore it?

The cars were compelling, but the mountains with craggy faces looked close enough to touch. We drove to the trailhead at Wallowa Lake and began the approach to our destination: the Matterhorn, a knobby lump of granite soaring 9,826 feet into the blue Oregon sky.

The trail took us to our campsite beside Ice Lake, whose waters (true to its name) were still covered in a patchy sheet of white halfway into June. Awaking early the next morning we set out, following a network of snowfields and rocky outcroppings to the saddle between the Matterhorn and its slightly taller neighbor, Sacajawea Peak. The route is steep, but it never gets technical, requiring the same skills you’d use chasing your 4-year-old through a jungle gym.

From the saddle, my companions and I turned south to head up the ridge to the summit. Tiny alpine wildflowers—blues, purples, and yellows— peaked their heads from cracks in the granite. As we climbed, we noticed wavy patterns chiseled into the rock by centuries of wind-driven sand. The formations looked more like something you’d find in a riverbed than at the top of mountain.

After three hours of scrambling, we made the summit. The view was breathtaking, stretching west across the snow-covered Wallowas and east to the sharp-toothed peaks of Idaho’s Seven Devils.

To the north we could see the town of Enterprise, Oregon—home to Terminal Gravity Brewery. I gave the wind a couple attentive sniffs, and I swear

I could smell the hops already.

The return hike down the West Fork of the Wallowa River went quickly, and before long we were seated at a table in the picnic-like atmosphere of the lawn at Terminal Gravity. The weather was perfectly mild, and children played in the small creek that ran through the property. Out came a round of Eagle Cap IPAs, and I was in heaven.

Granted, I only ordered it because I had just been hiking in its namesake wilderness (I’m a sucker for that sort of thing), but the light, citrusy flavor and sharp hoppy finish really hit the spot after a long day in the hills.

Shortly thereafter, I lost myself in a delicious oozing mass of juicy meat, fresh tomatoes, and bleu cheese—otherwise known as a buffalo burger. Globs of ketchup and cheese dribbled from the ciabatta bun onto my fingers, mixing with the pine pitch and earthy Wallowa grit coating my hands.

Call it disgusting, if you’d like. I prefer to think of it as a bit of terroir or a unique, local flavor. //

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Where to Stay in Wallowa County

There are free dispersed camping sites along Hurricane Creek and a developed campground with showers at Wallowa Lake State Park (from $20/night), both 10 minutes from Joseph. For those who prefer a more comfortable berth, the Bronze Antler Bed and Breakfast in Joseph (from $96/night) provides mountain views, evening desserts, and a library full of informational books on the area. For other lodging options, check out Wallowacountychamber.com.

Year-Round Oregon

Adventure

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Apply to Windsong Today! www.SpokaneWindsongSchool.org/admissions

Northeast

Summer in northeast Oregon is busiest, but come fall most of the trails clear out. Visitors are drawn to the 535 miles of trail in the Wallowas, as well as Chief Joseph Days Rodeo in late July. Joseph Canyon, approximately one hour north of Joseph and accessible from Highway 3, offers a good hiking alternative in the spring and fall when the mountain trails are choked with snow. In January, you can see mushers and dogs from all over the country test their mettle in the Eagle Cap Extreme Sled Dog Race, the only Iditarod qualifier in the western U.S. //

4225 W Fremont Rd, Spokane WA (509) 326-6638 admin@SpokaneWindSongSchool.org september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

23

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Binge driving from Spokane to Seattle and back in a weekend can desensitize us to the beauty of central Washington and the I-90 corridor. But once a year it’s worth tapping the brakes on the east-west blitz. Adding a day or two to accommodate a more leisurely pace means more chances to explore scenic landscapes with unbeatably easy freeway access. The following adventure detours can be a remedy for the hurried traveler and a reminder of how lucky we are to have spectacular landscapes so close to home.

Hike to Snow Lake

Crag at Leavenworth

Ancient Lakes

It’s always a good idea to get an early start in the summer, but Good Mood Food’s affordable breakfast burrito with side salad distracts many a dedicated climber from the alpine start. The classic joint is the best place to observe Leavenworth’s cast of characters: river rats, cyclists, runners, climbers, and town-loving tourists. It’s a two-minute drive from the café to the well-loved February Buttress, a three pitch classic climb on the west end of town.

The route is cruisy and gear abounds. The rappel is easiest with a 70m rope, but a variety of slings and trees facilitate the 60m rope descent. Then it’s back to the car to scope out a calm section of Icicle Creek that escapes the guard of private property signs.

Snow Lake Trail 1013 offers some of the most accessible alpine scenery from I-90, making it the perfect hike for I-90 travelers with a few hours to spare. The 6.5 mile out and back is often busy on the weekends, but come fall the crowds thin. Some eager souls pack in inflatable paddleboards and kayaks, and their watercrafts gliding on windless waters seem dream-like under the craggy face of Roosevelt Peak. A dip in the frigid lake rewards the sweaty hiker with shocking relief.

Twelve miles off I-90 between George and Quincy, this hike is 12 miles round-trip and is a great spot for viewing the effects of the Missoula floods.

Ginkgo Petrified Forest

Three miles off I-90 near Vantage, this interpretive trail loop is only a quarter mile long, but the Washington Trails Association suggests a 3-mile gravel loop that takes you to the edge of the state park.

Wild Horses Monument

A few hundred yards off I-90 as you descend towards the Columbia River west of Gorge, make the quick jaunt up the well-worn hill at the far end of the parking lot that leads to a up-close interaction with the horses and an inspiring view of the Columbia River. //

Top: Frenchman coulee hiking views. photo: Shallan Knowles. // Jumping into icicle creek. photo: Summer Hess

24

OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

UrbanOutdoors Harold Balazs & the art of nature // By Nick Thomas  Harold Balazs has worked in Spokane

for 70 years, creating whimsical, intriguing, rhododendrons, and daisies, and the other one and often confounding works of art. They explodes with birds—soaring swallows, owls, range from large-scale public displays to priand goldfinches caught in vibrant colors as pure vate commissions in the form of giant doors, as the day they were created back in 1981. In tiny address numbers, enamel murals, scores fact, there’s so much going on visually in all his of liturgical art for area churches, plus the work, and the pieces are scattered around town more traditional jewelry, watercolors, and in so many unexpected places, that it’s best to enamels. It’s safe to say he’s worked with every simply experience his art instead of analyzing conceivable medium. He even hand-built two it—much as one would a national park. wood sailboats, which allowed him to master “Nature is seen in most of his work,” says woodworking.

Blair Williams, owner of Art Spirit Gallery With the assistance of his wife Rosemary in Coeur d’Alene where Balazs has shown his since they met at Comstock Pool in 1947, work since 1997. “His public sculptures are and the help of his grandkids in recent literally in nature, like the one floating in the years, Balazs has graced our homes, colleges, [Spokane] River. In that way, they all tie togethoffices, churches, and parks, leaving a trail er.” His work fits the city well, since Spokane is of beauty as surprising as it is strange. His infused with so much nature and art— riparian work runs through cities and towns across greenbelts running throughout, public art on a Balazs the Northwest, and reaches further afield in many a corner, and murals beautifying many find Alaska, Pennsylvania, and his native Ohio. tucked an overpass. away It includes temporary sculptures, too, like a One of my favorite pieces is the Rotary down- Fountain, built in 2005, which is arguably 40-foot driftwood tower assembled by stutown dents on Desolation Sound, soon destroyed the most interactive of his public pieces. (The spokane. by the tsunami from the 1964 Alaska earth// Photo: fountain is currently undergoing $1 million Derrick repair.) Spokanites love running under that quake. And there’s the impromptu driftwood Knowles halo of cascading water or watching much totem erected on the shore of Priest Lake with fellow artists, an undertaking fueled by home braver folks play while basking in the sunlight brew and christened The “Great God Damn.” slicing through the mist. It’s crowned by a garHis style resists classification, but it certainly land of Balazsian squiggles that frame jets of water His relationship with the outdoors started in his has elements of abstract art. One of the common converging in the torrential middle. The stainless Depression-era Midwest childhood, where he themes is a kind of made-up iconography, a take on steel basalt columns are almost indistinguishable worked the strawberry harvest, earning 12 cents a quart; at the seven-acre homestead in Mead; or on the ancient cuneiform language, where one letter from the real thing, echoing the bedrock beneath trips to Alaska, where he installed over two dozen our feet. or symbol signifies one idea. Yet Harold’s twisty At the heart of his style glows a fearless fascinasymbol-letters cannot be decoded. They are prodpublic artworks over a 10-year period as part of tion with our world and all the wonder and mysucts of his imagination, fused together into fantasAlaska’s Percent for Art, making time for side forays tical monuments bursting with energy like unruly, tery we constantly stumble upon. “I’m interested in to hunt caribou with artist friends Ken Spiering and tangled vines. Look at his famous concrete lantern, everything,” Balazs still proclaims, as he ardently Mel McCuddin.

Opera Tower, behind the INB Performing Arts has for all the past 89 years. And that’s because “Except for brief periods, such as college,” Balazs Center: four sides of cast concrete “Haroldology” everything is interesting, to him, and ought to be explains, “I’ve always lived on a farm.” This close to more of us, perhaps. rise up 32-feet, the corners expertly notched proximity with nature informs Balazs’s distinct together like a log house.

The materials we all tread upon are hallowed: style and flows out of it, mostly in a subconscious That was the sculpture that nearly crushed him. dirt and water are molded into clay, pigments from way. In his aptly-titled enamels, “Birds of the During installation in 1974 he tried to stop a secNorthwest” and “Northwest Wildflowers,” which minerals we mine are ground and mixed with tion from blowing over in a wind gust—he saved it, are located on the Lincoln Building at 818 West oils to render images and feelings. The key is to but crushed three vertebrae in the process. During Riverside, one pastoral scene explodes with irises, never stop making things and, Balazs insists, not the many weeks of convato think too much. He says most days he’s still out toollescence he took to waterOther Places to Find His Work color and painted squashes ing around his workshop, in their garden. With his assembling small sculptures Finding every sculpture in and around Spokane will take you on a whirlwind but worthwhile artist friends and their from the odds and ends he’s outing. You’ll encounter friezes hidden in plain sight—the cast concrete facade of Hennessey easels, they sketched and gathered in a lifetime dediFuneral Home on Division, a giant Tree of Life unfurling curlicue leaves arching across the painted the verdant chaos cated to the arts. // entry; or carved into the brick walls of Century Link’s downtown office and the Wheatland of vegetation in solidarity.

Bank on Wall Street’s pedestrian mall. A mural at 4th and Sunset depicts Balazs’s legacy, capThroughout his life Nick Thomas wrote about turing his vivid style and emphasis on wonder.

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Location Varies To Showcase Local Businesses september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

25

Moscow Mountain The Making of a Mountain Bike Mecca

By Paul Chisholm

26

OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

If you’ve ever been to Moscow, Idaho, you’ve seen it. And if you’ve lived there, you’ve probably been on it.

Moscow Mountain—a long, 5,000-foot-high ridge rising from a sea of rolling hills—dominates the Palouse skyline. During the summer, mountain bikers, hikers, and equestrians enjoy over 70 miles of trail on the mountain’s flanks. In the winter, backcountry skiers and snowshoers take their turn enjoying the mountain’s charms.

You might be tempted to thank the people who set the area aside, those forward-thinking individuals who oh-so-long-ago preserved the mountain for the public to enjoy in perpetuity. You might be tempted to hold up the mountain as an example of public land done right, a place where the will of the people won out against corporate interests. You might be tempted—and you’d be wrong.

In fact, very little of Moscow Mountain is public.

With a few small exceptions, the mountain lies in private hands. The story of Moscow Mountain isn’t one of government regulation or environmental activism. It’s better than that. It’s a story of cooperation, of mutual trust and respect. Ultimately, it’s a story about an Idaho logger who wanted to protect his family’s livelihood—and the local mountain biker who could make it happen.

Like many good stories, this one begins in the 90s. The scene on Moscow Mountain was a lot different back then. For decades, local residents had been using the area as a trash dump.

Garbage—from beer cans and candy wrappers to washing machines and rusted cars—littered the slopes. Partiers from the University of Idaho and Washington State frequented the area on the weekends, leaving broken glass and smoldering fire rings in their wake. Illegal firewood collecting was taking its toll on the mountain’s trees. Worst of all, overuse by motorcycles and four wheelers on the mountain’s network of old logging roads resulted in massive problems with erosion.

“Four wheelers and mud boggers were tearing the shit out of the mountain,” remembers Brett Bennett of Bennett Lumber, the mountain’s largest landowner. “They’d turn a puddle into a giant hole.”

Erosion was a particular problem due to a courtissued mandate to clean up Paradise Creek, which drains the western portion of Moscow Mountain.

Poorly constructed roads and trails were being beat to death by unsanctioned motorized use, causing extreme amounts of sediment to get washed into the creek. During heavy rain, the creek looked more like chocolate milkshake than a pristine mountain stream. As a consequence, much of it had become ecologically sterile.

Something had to be done, but Bennett’s resources were limited. “We’re just small potatoes, a small family timber operation. Not like a huge corporation who could probably hire their own cop to watch over things,” Bennett remarks.

Bennett’s solution came to him in a chance encounter with Jim LaFortune, a science teacher at Moscow’s junior high school and an enthusiastic mountain biker. LaFortune was the president of the Moscow Area Mountain Bike Association (MAMBA) and had been riding old skid roads on the mountain for years. He even authored a local guidebook, “Mountain Bike Guide to Hog Heaven,” in 1995.

The two individuals came from different worlds, but they saw an opportunity for a mutually beneficial relationship. If LaFortune and his mountain bikers could police the mountain, Bennett reasoned, then vandalism and property damage might be avoided. If Bennett gave official recognition to the mountain bikers, LaFortune surmised, there could be opportunities for more and better trails.

It all came to a head at a March 2002 meeting in the 1912 Center near Moscow’s downtown. A diverse assortment of user groups—mountain bikers, four-wheel drive enthusiasts, skiers, hikers, snowmobilers, and horsemen—attended the meeting, in addition to several landowners, includ-

ing Bennett.

The user groups discussed how and where they recreated. The landowners described their problems with vandalism and misuse. In the end, everyone seemed to agree on a basic point: Moscow Mountain was too important to the community to be cut off entirely, but there had to be rules which protected landowner rights.

After the meeting, an informal management plan for the mountain began to congeal. While most large-scale land management plans start at the top, this one was conceived at the grassroots.

It was a plan crafted not by lawyers and government bureaucrats but by local citizens. Although the plan banned motorized use, biking and other non-motorized use was allowed to persist, provided that visitors cooperate with local landowners.

“The mountain bikers weren’t really hurting anything,” Bennett reasoned. Keeping people off the mountain altogether was a losing proposition, he figured, given the longstanding precedent of allow-

“They had a few trails that no one knew about ‘til the meeting,” Bennett remembers. “They GPS’d them and gave us the information.” Once Bennett knew the locations of the trails, he could communicate with MAMBA to alert them whenever one of their trails fell within a timber harvest so they would know to steer clear.

Not only did MAMBA work with Bennett’s foresters to map and build new trails, but they also invested significant time and effort in returning the mountain to a better state. Garbage was removed in droves. Motorcyclists who violated the motorized ban were educated. Trails were rerouted and reconstructed to prevent erosion.

Scott Metlen, a business professor at the University of Idaho and current president of MAMBA, recalls the shift in the mountain’s atmosphere. “When I got here in ’01, there were garbage piles everywhere. We have slowly cleaned up the mountain, and people don’t drop their garbage there anymore. We’ve taken some of their logging

Top left: The small town of moscow tucked BENEATH rolling wheat fieds and moscow mountain. // bottom left: views from the top. // This page: winding through the cedars. Photos: Paul Chisholm

ing public access on the mountain. And if people were going to be there, he might as well pick who they were.

LaFortune and his crew of bikers got to work immediately, providing Bennett’s foresters with information on trail conditions and locations.

roads and made it so there’s no run-off. Every year we re-route a section of trail so there’s no runoff.

We build them so they don’t wash.”

Monthly newsletters sent to MAMBA’s membership stressed the importance of mountain stewardship and reflected LaFortune’s own humorous,

charismatic personality. One such bulletin reads: “If you see ATVs or motorcyclists off the main roads, feel free to remind them (assuming they’re sober and gun-free) that the mountain is essentially all private land and that they are only allowed on the main roads.”

Another continues: “In a few weeks, I’ll be sending an email to you containing the names and street addresses of a few of our key landowners. It would be terrific if a few thankful community members who use the trails (i.e.; YOU), would write a short personal note expressing appreciation for the privilege of using these private lands for our re-creation.”

This was typically followed by one of LaFortune’s trademark closing phrases: “Put the power to the pedal,” “Rubber side down,” or “Don’t happy, be worried,” before he signed off.

Although MAMBA enjoyed its newfound legitimacy, emerging from the shadows came with its share of growing pains. Bennett Lumber is the largest landlord on the mountain, and every trail either crosses or is accessed from Bennett property.

Still, it’s not the only game in town. And although MAMBA has cooperative agreements with nearly 30 individual landowners, some did not share Bennett’s obliging attitude after being informed of trails on their property. Metlen recalls several instances of having to remove existing trails and structures due to landowner opposition.

“Some of the landowners have gotten pretty pissed,” notes Bennett, adding that the relationship with recreationalists hasn’t always been rosy.

“Some people have taken equipment for a joy ride and thrown it over a ravine. We’ve had some frustrations. We’ve come close a few times to just nuking the whole idea. But it’s been mostly positive.”

For Bennett, the benefits provided by the trail users outweigh the costs. On several occasions, bikers have helped prevent a potentially catastrophic disaster. “Mountain bikers will contact us and say ‘Hey, we found a campfire and put it out,’ or ‘We called the fire department,’” Bennett explains. For a man that depends on intact timberland for his livelihood, the detection of unwanted fires is a priceless service.

“We’ve put out several different fires as a group.

They like us being up there because we inform people of their rules and we follow their rules. It has turned out to be a pretty good symbiotic relationship,” Metlen claims, before ending with a caveat.

“But as with any relationship, it could go south pretty easily.”

In 2009, Moscow’s mountain biking community was called upon to attend to a different sort of fire. In September of that year, Jim LaFortune had a tumor removed from his brain. Two months later, the community came together to host a benefit dance and auction to help cover his medical expenses. As revelers danced the night away, donations and bids poured in. By the time the evening ended, over $36,000 had been raised.

LaFortune passed away nearly a year later, at the age of 51. A few weeks before he died, as the disease slowly ate away at his memory and stamina, LaFortune mustered himself for one last ride with the people he loved on a new trail with a very special name. It is, fittingly, LaFortune’s Flight.

That’s the beauty of the trails on Moscow Mountain: they remind you where they came from. One trail is called Private Lands, in tribute to landowners like Brett Bennett who were gracious enough to offer up their property for all to enjoy.

A second trail honors the man whose sweat and tenacity brought the whole thing into being. Next time you’re in the Moscow area, be sure to stop by and enjoy it. Whether you’re on two wheels or two feet, I guarantee you’ll appreciate its swooping turns, plunging dips, and smooth dirt tread. As you weave your way beneath the evergreen boughs of grand fir and white pine, stop and take a moment.

Breathe a breath. Eat a huckleberry. Listen to the trickle of a mountain stream. Then, when you’ve had your fill, offer up a quick thank-you to the people who made it all possible. // Paul Chisholm wrote about Hell’s Canyon in March.

You can find more of his work in “Backpacker.” september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

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Nature biomimicry: Learning From Nature for a Better Future // By Summer Hess

workshop participants inspect an insect on the leader’s thumb. // photo: Summer Hess.

Janine Benyus wanted to capture how pro-

cesses in the natural world had inspired sustainable solutions to complicated design challenges, so she authored the book “Biomimicry: Innovation Inspired by Nature” in 1997. Twenty years later, biomimicry is a key strategy in disrupting the status quo and inspiring innovation across disciplines.

Benyus’ website Ask Nature documents hundreds of technologies that emulate the genius of the natural world. One example of biomimicry comes from the outdoor industry by way of Nikwax Waterproofing. This company studied how the fur of seals and other mammals found in cold, wet climates repels water while pushing water vapor away from the body. Product engineers mimicked the way fur manages moisture and designed the Analogy® fabric, which deflects wind and rain while

actively directing sweat away from the body. The UK-based clothing company Páramo uses this fabric in its durable, reparable performance clothing.

In addition to consulting nature for this technological innovation, Nikwax’s fabric fulfills the criteria of biomimicry on another level. The company practices environmentally responsible manufacturing, which means it applies a sustainability lens on a systems level. Unlike other waterproofing materials, Analogy® is nontoxic, which is better for people and the planet. Their clothing is also produced in a socially responsible setting, meaning factory workers have a much higher quality of life than most workers in the textile industry.

Biomimicy is also being used to inspire innovation in human systems. Leaders in the field of organizational development are applying nature’s genius

in their businesses and enterprises. For example, the Harvard Business Review cites how Southwest Airlines studied the behavior of social insects to see what they could learn about efficiency. More specifically, they examined the foraging habits of ants and how they managed to consistently find efficient routes to food sources. When the company applied swarm intelligence to their cargo operations, they reduced the number of times goods were transferred between planes. This simple change decreased human workload, opened up more planes for new cargo, and boosted the company with more than $10 million of annual gain.

On a local level, Gonzaga University students from the environmental studies program followed biomimetic principles when they installed floating wetlands in Lake Arthur earlier this year. According to an article put out by the Biology department, their goal was to improve the lake’s ecosystem by creating a “concentrated wetland effect” through two floating “Biohavens.” The hope is that, through imitating the flora of a healthy ecosystem, they can recreate the same benefits provided by natural wetlands and

remove excess carbon, nutrients, and dissolved solids.

While these innovations are inspiring, biomimicry at its heart is more than a design principle. It calls for a fundamental shift in the way humans relate to their environment. “Unlike the Industrial Revolution,” writes Benyus, “the Biomimicry Revolution introduces an era based not on what we

Product engineers mimicked the way fur manages moisture and designed the Analogy® fabric, which deflects wind and rain while actively directing sweat away from the body. can extract from nature, but on what we can learn from her.” The commitment to look to nature as a mentor suggests that biomimicry is also an ethic, a corpus of values that guides actions and behavior.

It pays a deep respect to the 3.8 billion years of prehuman life on Earth, which seems like a critical step in ensuring continued life on this planet. //

BRRC SUNDAE SUNDAY– SEPT. 10 BRRC CROSS COUNTRY SERIES – SEPT. 17 221 N. Wall St. 509.624.7654 10208 N. Division 509-468-1786

2017 Trail Runs Idaho / E. Washington 9/9/17 SPS #4 Riverside

10/28/17 SPS #5 Halloween at Hell's Gate

2018 Trail Runs Coming Soon! www.trailmaniacs.com 28

OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

FEBRUARY 24-25 SPOKANE

CONVENTION

CENTER AARON THEISEN

BIKING (September 11) WACANID Ride.

Where: Start in Sandpoint, Idaho. Fully supported 6-day ride through Washington, Idaho and Canada. Info: wacanid.org

(September 16) Global Kidical Massive. Where: Kendall Yards, Spokane. Just like the regular Kidical Mass, this event is a fun, safe bike ride especially for kids on anything that rolls. But on this special day Spokane joins thousands of kids all over the planet for a worldwide “Kidical Mass” bike ride. This fun family-friendly afternoon bike ride of about 3 miles heads out through Kendall Yards and back on the Centennial Trail. Info: Summerparkways.com

(September 16) 15th Annual Kootenai River Ride. Where: Bonners Ferry, Idaho. Enjoy the fall scenery as you pedal along the Kootenai River and through the Kootenai National Wildlife Refuge and Ball Creek Nature Preserve on a paved route full of spectacular scenery. Distances include 100k, 60k, and 16k, all starting at Boundary County Fairgrounds.

Info: Kootenairiverride.com

(September 16) RIM Ride 5-Mile Family Bike Ride. Where: Liberty Lake, Wash. This familyfriendly ride bike ride takes you on the trails in the beautiful City of Liberty Lake. Safe ride for families and kids. Info: Rotaryinmotion.com

(September 17) RIM Ride. Where: Liberty Lake, Wash. A community cycling event for all ages and abilities, with 15, 25, 50 and 100 mile routes on scenic backroads that explores the beautiful areas of Liberty Lake, Post Falls, Green Bluff and Spokane Valley.

Info: Rotaryinmotion.com

(September 22-24) Silveroxx Mountain Bike Festival. Where: Silver Mountain Resort. Silveroxx Mountain Bike Festival is a three-day celebration of two wheel off road fun. With events for every rider type including a night ride, ladies day, kids races, downhill race, super-d (top to bottom) race, best trick, minibike dh, minibike keg slalom, bunny hop

contest, and outdoor movies. Or just ride on your own. Info: Silvermt.com

(September 24) Valleyfest Duathlon.

Where: Plantes Ferry Sports Complex, Spokane Valley. Take the challenge of a 5k run, 11 mile bike, and another 5k run. Info: Valleyfest.org/duathlon

(September 24) Valleyfest Family Bike Ride.

Where: Centennial Trail, Spokane Valley. This family-friendly bike ride along the beautiful Centennial Trail includes four leader-guided routes to choose from: 6.8 miles, 8.8 miles, 13.5 miles and 15.6 miles.

Info: Valleyfest.org

RUNNING (September 9) Trail Maniacs State Park Series #4. Where: Riverside State Park. SPS is a trail run series, including 5 mile and half marathon distances that take place at six state parks in Idaho and Washington. Info: Trailmaniacs.com/sps

(September 16) Palouse River 5k & 10k Run/ Walk & 1,5k Kids’ Race. Where: Main Street, Palouse, Wash. When: 8 a.m. A walk or run through the beautiful Palouse region that is part of Palouse Day events and supports GarPal Young Life. Info: Visitpalouse.com/events

(September 17) Scenic Half Marathon. Where: Sandpoint. With a route across Sandpoint’s iconic Long Bridge offering panoramic views of Lake Pend Oreille and the surrounding mountains, the Scenic Half Marathon attracts hundreds of runners from all across the country. Info: Scenichalf.com (September 19) Two Bear Marathon.

Where: Whitefish, Montana. Run the scenic backroads around this beautiful mountain town on an all-new, all-road course with full and half marathon distances.

The race starts and ends at Depot Park in downtown Whitefish, where a free barbeque awaits finishers as part of the post-race party. Info: Twobearmarathon.org.

SEPTEMBER (September 23) Spokane Happy Girls Run. Where: Spokane. Women’s half marathon, 10k and 5k runs with great post-race festivities and fabulous goody bags. Info: Happygirlsrun.com

OTHER (September 5) Packing it Out Tour. Where: REI Spokane. When: 6 – 9 p.m. Gear Junkie Magazine.

Registration to talk requested. Info: REI.com Pre-event clean-up at the Fisk property, located approximately 22 miles from Spokane on Long Lake Reservoir. Info: SpokaneRiverRun.com (September 8-9) 3rd Annual Free the Snake Flotilla. Where: Chief Timothy State Park, Clarkston, Wash. Bring your kayak, canoe, jetboat, dory, raft, pontoon, motor boat, drift boat or other vessel and join an easy paddle on the lower Snake River in support of removing four dams to restore a free-flowing river and wild salmon and steelhead. The float happens on Saturday, with camping, speakers, and live music by Folkinception getting started Friday. This is a family-friendly gathering. Info: Freethesnake.com.

(September 8-10) Tinnabulation Music Festival. Where: Riverfront Park, Spokane. This first-year Spokane music festival includes 59 acts performing on four different stages, including headliners John Butler Trio, OK Go, American Authors, Frenship, Barns Courtney, Coleman Hell, MISSIO, Coast Modern, and LOLO. Top regional and local acts include Hollow Wood, Kuinka, Iska Dhaaf, The Dip, Dude York, Naked Giants, Grizzled Mighty, Lemolo, The Sweeplings, Marshal McLean, Lavoy, Jango, Folkinception, and Mama Doll. Tinnfest will also have interactive and live performing art setup throughout the festival grounds. Info: Tinnabulation.com

(September 8) Bringing in the Harvest. Where: Philanthropy Center, Spokane. Spokane Edible Tree Project’s 4th Annual FriendRaiser will feature local food and beverages, a silent auction, and live music to benefit Spokane Edible Tree Project’s food recovery and hunger relief programs.

Spokaneedibletreeproject.org

S I X M O N T H E V E N T C A LE N D A R RUNNING (October 1) Sekani Trail Run.

Where: Camp Sekani, Spokane. The 9th annual trail run is a 5k/10k event (plus a free Kids’ 1k) with 100% dirt trails and fabulous course challenges with 700 feet of elevation gain for the 10k run! Info: Sekanitrailrun.com

(October 7) Wild Moose Chase. Where: Mount Spokane State Park. The 7th annual Wild Moose Chase trail includes two courses that follow the Nordic trails, the 5k and 10k, and a 25k length that uses a mixture of double and singletrack trails. All distances start at the Selkirk Lodge. Info: Facebook. com/wildmoosechasetrailrun

(October 7) Centennial Beer Chase. Where: From Spokane to Coeur d’Alene. Run in a group of six people, exchanging at breweries along the way.

Info: CentennialBeerChase.com

(October 14) Hayden Lake Marathon.

The full, half, and quarter marathon distance options and the incredibly scenic course make this the perfect fall event for all runners. Enjoy breathtaking views while running past golf courses, lakes, horse pastures, farms, and North Idaho forests. Info: Haydenlakemarathon.org

BIKING (October 7) Inland NW Cyclocross Series.

Where: Cougar Cross, WSU Campus, Pullman, Wash. Info: Inlandnwcyclocross.com

(October 8) Inland NW Cyclocross Series.

Where: Palouse CX at Sky Ranch, Moscow, Idaho.

Info: Inlandnwcyclocross.com

(October 15) Inland NW Cyclocross Series.

Where: Riverstone, Coeur d’Alene, Idaho. Info: Inlandnwcyclocross.com

BOOK ONLINE VELOFIX.COM

(February 24-25) Spokane Great Outdoors & Bike Expo. Where: Spokane Convention Center.

Shop for bikes and other outdoor gear, learn from speakers and clinics, demo bikes and try outdoor sports like rock climbing and slacklining, explore travel destinations and adventure outfitters from all over the Northwest, and win awesome outdoor prizes. Info: Spokaneoutdoorexpo.com

OTHER (November 3-4) Farm & Food Expo.

Where: Spokane Community College. Learn how to make apple cider vinegar, soap and other home products, and take home strategies for using permaculture principles, protecting your backyard chickens from predators, brewing beer with heri-

THE BIKE SHOP THAT COMES TO YOU

OutdoorCalendar

tage grains and more. Info: Sccd.org/departments/ small-acreage/farm-food-expo

september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com

29

Last Page Oregon Outback // By Hank Greer

John and Geoff Greer navigate tall vegetation in the wetlands// photo: Hank Greer

I really enjoy the quiet and isolation of bike

packing through the countryside. The Oregon Outback Route offers a lot of that. Connecting Klamath Falls with the confluence of the Deschutes and Columbia rivers, the Outback route follows rail trail, gravel roads, Forest Service roads, and some pavement through very lightly populated terrain. The sparse countryside is just as beautiful as it is tough. A handful of small towns serve as very welcome oases.

My brother, John, and my son, Geoff, joined me

in Klamath Falls on July 4. The next morning, the hot sun blazed as we set out on the OC&E Woods Line State Trail, a rail trail, heading east and then north. In less than an hour we left the paved trail and civilization behind. We rambled through ranch land with countless cattle, pastures with horses, wetlands with head-high vegetation, and thickets of scrub brush. After 60 miles, we camped near a creek on the outskirts of the Fremont National Forest.

The next day, we finished the rail trail and switched to gravel and Forest Service roads.

Through forests and grazing land, we pedaled 72 miles to Fort Rock where we enjoyed draft beer served in frosted mugs at The Watering Hole Tavern. Searching for a place to camp, we spotted a lawn at the community church. Unable to contact anyone from the church we asked a neighbor if she’d think they’d mind if we pitched our tents there. “Of course not,” she said. “They’re church people.”

Day three was another sweltering day, and there was less water available along this part of the route.

We suffered through the loose red dust of National Forest Road 22. The deep parts would bog us down like quicksand. Grinding away in the heat, we consumed most of our water. Arriving at Sands Springs, we found a fenced off puddle of murky, stagnant water with a cow pie at the water’s edge. We filtered some of it, but the resulting green liquid was too unappealing for us city boys. We decided to skip it.

Instead we took a 14-mile round-trip detour on Highway 20 to Brothers, Ore., where we ate, rested, and replenished our water. Thirty-two miles later we arrived at a campground by the Prineville Reservoir. We slept the sleep of the dead after an 84-mile day.

The next morning we rode 40 miles of paved road to the Ochoco National Forest. The route changed to a rocky road, and it was 25 miles of downhill across creeks and through trees to Ashwood. In Ashwood we found a small field with picnic tables and shade trees next to a grange building. A resident told us we were welcome to camp there. There’s a water spigot and pit toilets behind the grange building.

Day five was supposed to be an easy 30 miles, but we ended up climbing more than on any other

DO WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY!

day. Trees gave way to scrubland and the sun was brutal. We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon in Shaniko that included cold beer and ice cream.

From Shaniko the final leg of the route called for 70 miles with no water and no shade. Fortunately, the temperature dropped to 80 degrees that day.

At midday, we diverted to Moro on Highway 97 for lunch and water. We paid dearly for it. Leaving Moro, we fought a 20-30 mph headwind while climbing for several miles. Then we battled headwinds in wide-open farmland all the way to the Columbia River. We were relieved to arrive at the Deschutes River State Recreation Area.

One of the first considerations for doing this ride is the travel logistics—how to get to the starting point and how to get home after you’ve finished.

John lives in Tacoma and Geoff in Oakland. Getting to Klamath Falls was easy. I drove to Tacoma where John and I caught the Amtrak. Geoff also took the train from Oakland. When we finished the ride, John’s wife, Susan, was kind enough to drive three hours to pick us up. We dropped Geoff off in Portland where he caught the train back to Oakland. And I drove home after spending the night in Tacoma. We were very thankful for Susan’s help.

Much of our ride went through what could easily be called the middle of nowhere. We admired heron, hawks, an owl, a bobcat, and other wildlife.

The Oregon Outback Route offers plenty of nature with a touch of civilization in just the right places. // Hank Greer is an avid bike commuter and runner.

He wrote the Everyday Cyclist column in August.

REGISTER AT WWW.HAPPYGIRLSRUN.COM

SPOKANE

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 23RD • 5 K R u n , 1 0 K R u n & H a l f M a r a t h o n G rea t po st-race festivities & fabulous go ody bag s

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OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017

Topo Men’s & Women’s Terraventure Trail Running Shoes $110.00

Full-service shop, rentals, demos, classes and an experienced staff!

New Balance SideSwipe Sunglasses Reg $110.00 SALE $39.98

For a complete list of class descriptions, events and information, contact us: 2002 N Division, Spokane • 509.325.9000 • mountaingear.com/retail Hours: Mon-Fri 10 am-8 pm, Sat 10 am-6 pm, Sun 11 am-5 pm

Frictionlabs Gorilla Grip Chunky Chalk 5oz: $15.00 10oz: $25.00

UPCOMING EVENTS WE’RE SPONSORING:

Sunday Sept 10, Kendall Yards, 8:00 am Event Packet pickup at Mountain Gear Friday Sept 8 from 4-8 pm spokefest.org

Black Diamond Orbit Lantern Reg $29.95 SALE $19.98

Nov 17 - 19, Bing Crosby Theater mountaingear.com (search Banff)

Hydro Flask 21oz Standard Mouth Flex Cap Bottle $32.95

Rab Men’s & Women’s Alpha Flux Jacket $179.95

Totem USA Totem Cam $82.95

Helinox Chair One Camp Chair $99.95 Edelrid Megajul Sport $29.95

MSR Trailshot Microfilter $49.95 Marmot Men’s & Women’s Scree Pant $109.95 Smartwool PhD Run Light Elite Low Cut Socks $17.95

Kelty Trail Ridge 6 Reg $399.95 SALE $259.98

31 september 2017 / OutThereMonthly.com Chimney Rock; in the Selkirk Mountains of N Idaho Photo: Jim Rueckel

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OutThereMonthly.com / september 2017