HOW TO BUY A SKI LODGE IN JAPAN – we ask the experts
MIND YOUR MANNERS – dos and don’ts in Japan
TOKYO GROMS – got kids will travel, the best of Tokyo for families
NISEKO LUXE – the evolution from bogan to Boujee
JAPAN FOR FIRST TIMERS TO OLD TIMERS –the resorts that are right for you
STROKE ON THE SLOPES – one man’s story of survival
ONLY IN JAPAN – tips and tricks to make the most of your trip
COVER IMAGE:
Photographer: Matt Hull/The Matt Image Skier: Tom Langtry Place: Suginohara backcountry, Myoko
Welcome
Hola Snows Besties
There’s 500 to 700 ski resorts in Japan, depending on who you talk to. Some are just a single run with a chairlift originally designed to train village kids in the art of ski racing lest they strive for the Winter Olympics of 1972 (Sapporo) and 1998 (Nagano). Others stand tall with random skyscrapers thrusting skyward still housing tourists today and still others are abandoned ghost towns.
Japan has come a long way since 1911 when Austrian Major Theodor von Lerch gave the country’s first ski lessons on Mount Kanaya. Today the country welcomes hundreds of thousands of international skiers each winter month, powder lovers in search of the country’s famous Japow, snow so light and dry you can’t make a snowball. They may come for the truck loads of yuki that falls from the sky but they stay for the culture, the food, the people.
Our SnowsBest website is filled with Japan content to keep you researching for days and our Japan social media forum is filled with a brains trust of thousands of regular Japan skiers/boarders to answer all your travel questions.
This is our first Japan e-mag, yay! Australia’s best travel writers reveal how to invest in your own Japan lodge, discover the original home grown Japan snow brands, the best of Tokyo for families, which ski resort suits you and more.
Enjoy the read!
Rach aka Miss Snow It All
This e-mag was produced on the land of the Gadigal and Gundungurra people. We acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of country throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respects to their Elders past and present and extend that respect to all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islanders peoples today. rachael@snowsbest.com I IG @misssnowitall I FB @misssnowitall
Our Team
Glenn CULLEN
Glenn is a former editor of Australian and New Zealand Skiing and sports journalist with Australian Associated Press. He went to as many Winter Olympics as Lydia Lassila, though obviously wasn’t quite as successful.
IG @cullen.glenn
Kate ALLMAN
Kate is a multi-media sports and travel journalist based in Sydney. Many of her stories lean into her lifelong love for skiing and snow travel. This issue she reveals the people behind Japan’s home grown ski brands.
IG @kateallman
Jason KING
Jason, travel, food and real estate writer/photographer/, started his snow media journey at Snowboard.com. This issue he reveals his life-threatening tale of a ski holiday gone wrong.
IG @jason.kingphotography
Natalia HAWK
Natalia is a writer and content specialist who has skied all over Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Japan and Europe. Equally obsessed with the sea and the snow, you can usually find her dreaming - and writing - about one of the two.
IG @nataliahawk
Darren TEASDALE
Darren Teasdale is a long-time multi-award winning photographer and videographer based in Niseko, Japan. He’s shot for Oyuki, BMW, Rossignol, Burton, Toyota, Hanazono, Air BnB and more. He pens a “love” letter to Niseko in this issue.
IG @mediabydarren
PUBLISHER/EDITOR: Rachael Oakes-Ash
ART DIRECTOR: christineschiedel.com
PHOTOGRAPHER: JEREMY BISHOP/UNSPLASH
SKIER: MALOU PETERSON
LOCATION: IWANAI RESORT, HOKKAIDO
Snow
BY KATE ALLMAN
moguls
Two
ex-pats are making their mark with hand crafted skis and snowboards made in
Hokkaido. Because Japan powder hits different.
JAPAN HAS LONG BEEN AT THE FOREFRONT OF SKIING. The host nation of two Winter Olympics showcased its supreme affinity for perfect carving and S-turns to the world in Sapporo 1972 and Nagano 1998.
Over the decades, though, Japan’s association with disciplined ski racing has given way to a new obsession. That being the loose and chaotic, adrenalinefueled drive for deep powder exploration. With over 15 metres of Hokkaido snow a season, you can see why.
Gentemstick was one of the first Hokkaido-based brands to begin making revolutionary snowboards in Niseko in 1998. They were shaped like
surfboards with fish tails and directional shapes, encouraging powder slashes and a laidback, surfy ride.
OYUKI , which means “big snow” in Japanese and founded by Matt Hampton, came out in 2011 to clothe the Niseko skiers copping freezing face shots and soon went global. Australian Ross Findlay founded the former Roko skis in 2017, running a factory in downtown Kutchan like a surfboard shaper’s shop where you could choose dimensions for your personalised skis.
Two brands born in Japan continue to craft their wares on Hokkaido soil. This is their story.
Offshore snowboards
THE ENTREPRENEURS BIRTHING BRANDS FROM HOKKAIDO POWDER
Above: Tenko Kuko 100
Photo: Offshore Snow Shapes
Offshore Snow Shapes
WHEN AUSTRALIAN SNOWBOARDER AND GRAPHIC DESIGNER JOSH MONIN VISITED NISEKO FOR THE FIRST TIME IN THE LATE 1990S, HE THOUGHT HE HAD FOUND NIRVANA, the Japanese equivalent of Byron Bay in the 70s – laidback, alternative, quiet, slightly hippie. Working freelance as a graphic designer, he found ways to return every year, doubling up with back-to-back seasons in Australia and New Zealand.
Monin grew up in the Newcastle area and loved surfing as much as snowboarding. In Niseko, the designer part of him collided with a surfer’s
mentality wanting to shape and ride his own boards. So, that’s what he did.
“I wasn’t thinking about a business approach at first. It was purely just, let’s see how this goes. I was making them out of bits of wood and a hand planer at night in the shed,” he laughs.
Monin refined his craft to begin developing boards that didn’t skimp on any detail. Alongside his business partner Richie Willcocks, he imported fibreglass for topsheets from Australia, steel from Germany for the edges, other components from all over the world. His best Japanese friend Tomohito Yamazaki came on board to help, and later became the brand’s factory manager.
“
MONIN REFINED HIS CRAFT TO BEGIN DEVELOPING BOARDS THAT
didn’t skimp on any detail
To this day, every Offshore Snow Shapes board is shaped and made in a little workshop at the base of Moiwa resort near Niseko. Monin describes their design as a fusion between high-performance and powder riding. Their boutique nature means just 350 boards are made annually.
“The biggest difference to us versus other ‘powder’ companies is our boards are not only hand crafted but designed for all snow conditions. Our boards are beautiful to ride in powder but are great in variable conditions and handle freestyle terrain just as well,” Monin says.
Tenko Skis
IAN MACKENZIE’S FIRST TASTE OF JAPANESE POWDER WASN’T IN HOKKAIDO, IT WAS IN HIROSHIMA. The founder of Niseko-based brand Tenko Skis had moved to Japan from Scotland to work as a teacher in the Hiroshima prefecture on the large island of Honshu. There, he began skiing the southern mountains of the Chūgoku Range every night.
In 1999, MacKenzie took a school ski trip to Niseko and knew immediately he wanted to move there. The following year he did so, later founding an accommodation management and travel agency and these days running luxuryfocused Niseko Wow.
He also met the now-shaper of Tenko skis, Komori san. Komori was behind the most iconic brands in the heyday of Japanese ski manufacturing, and the creator of many race-winning skis. Komori shapes for Tenko Skis but also operates his own brand KeiSki, building a handful of unique pairs each year for Japanese racers.
Rather than create the modern, wide, surfy skis that have become synonymous with Japanese powder skiing, MacKenzie wanted the opposite.
“The ski that Mr Komori had when I first met him was called the Komori Dolphin. It was really stiff, only 85mm under foot, 170mm long,” MacKenzie says. “I wanted something that would keep me as deep as possible in the snow.”
“
I wanted something THAT WOULD KEEP ME AS DEEP AS POSSIBLE IN THE SNOW.”
MacKenzie makes the point that most of the powder skiing in Niseko – aside from hiking the Annupuri summit – can be short in vertical, through tight trees that you need to be nimble between. In which case, it can be useful to sink deeper and enable the snowpack to slow you down.
The brand manufactures just 100 pairs per year, handcrafted from Hokkaido cedar in just two styles. One is an 85mm underfoot ski based on the Dolphin, called the Myobu 85. The other is 100mm underfoot – the widest MacKenzie will go.
“With Tenko Skis, you still get the same sensation, with plenty of face shots but you will be slower and more in control,” he says. “But fair warning – if you’re a bad skier, these skis will find you out.” SB
Left: Tenko Kuko 85 Far left: Tenko skis workshop
THE JAPAN SKI LODGE TAKING SERVICE TO ANOTHER
The Brueys - it’s where the spicy margaritas flow, the vinyl spins nightly and farm-to-table fare is served up straight from the chef in the kitchen. All while fat snowflakes drift by the window outside, bringing promises of a powder day to come.
TUCKED INTO A SNOWY CUL-DE-SAC OUT THE BACK OF MADARAO AND TANGRAM SKI CIRCUS RESORTS IN NAGANO PREFECTURE , just a four-minute walk from the closest chairlift, you’ll find the newest ski lodge in town - run by Aussie owner Adam Darroch and his Californian co-owner and wife, Kate de Ayora.
After several years living and working in Tokyo, the couple fell in love with skiing and snowboarding in the Madarao area. They walked the streets to talk to lodge owners until they found one who was willing to sell, and the rest is history: they now live and breathe the mountain lifestyle, making the most of the powder days and the fun après nights.
And despite the chill vibes the lodge brings, the level of service here is second to none - from pre-arrival right through to post-departure.
Here’s everything there is to love and expect from your stay at the Brueys.
Convenience
Ski holidays bring lots of moving pieces. Once you’ve booked in with the Brueys,
Kate and Adam are happy to work with you to build your dream holiday - from organising your transfers from the nearby bullet train station, to helping sort your ski rentals, booking any childcare you need, and even recommending their favourite things to do from Tokyo and beyond.
Ease of access
There’s no need to head to the base of the ski resort to sort your lift passes. Kate and Adam offer discounted passes through the lodge, which you can tuck right into your pocket before wandering to the number six chairlift of Tangram Ski Circus. You can ride all the way from there to Madarao Mountain Resort, with the combined resorts offering 15 lifts between them, and plenty of terrain - from groomers to the famed tree runs, a natural half-pipe and a freeride park.
Thoughtfulness
Whether you’re vegan, gluten-free, pescatarian, a steak lover, or happy with anything as long as you have a wine in one hand… there’s a menu here to cater for you. The in-house Brueys chef has experience working in Michelin-starred restaurants and works with local purveyors to procure the freshest seasonal ingredients for the menu. It’s all best washed down with their spectacular wine list and cocktail menu.
Comfort
Recent renovations have made this lodge the perfect place to bed down for your Japanese ski holiday. Think: under-floor heating, plush carpets, powerpoints with built-in adaptors for different types of plugs, and the cosiest beds you can imagine for the perfect night’s sleep once off the mountain. Plus spots to chill and spots to be lively - two sitting areas and a bar.
The extra arrangements
Want to go on a snow monkey tour during your stay? Ski over at a neighbouring resort, like Myoko Kogen? Get a ski or snowboard lesson for the whole family? Visit an incredible onsen? Find the best ramen in the area? Or just need to figure out the best powder run at Madarao? The Brueys crew can arrange private shuttles, tours and bookings for all of the above, or put you in touch directly with the right local people to get it sorted for you.
Ready to enjoy an incredible time at The Brueys with friends and family? Go to thebrueys.com to find out more.
The ultimate snow haven for families, friends, and powder enthusiasts alike
Buying a
SKI LODGE IN JAPAN
With a sinking yen and a bevy of resort areas to choose from, there’s no better time to buy a ski pad in Japan.
BY RACHAEL OAKES-ASH
“H
ONSHU IS FULL OF BARGAINS AND IT IS STILL POSSIBLE TO BUY A GREAT PIECE OF LAND CLOSE TO NISEKO FOR 100K,” says Ruskin McLennan of Peak Property Niseko. “ The Japanese real estate market will continue to grow. The proximity to Asia, the improving infrastructure and great snow and culture will ensure strong demand in the foreseeable future.” It’s easy to be bedazzled by the low prices of property when on holiday in Japan, especially when compared to back
home. But it’s not always simple navigating cultural, economic and financial differences on your Japan property journey.
“Sales prices are not public knowledge in Japan so it is difficult for foreign buyers to understand the current state of the market and Japanese banks do not loan to foreigners,” says Ruskin who has been active in the Japan market since 2003.
“Many investors use their Australian property equity to finance their Japanese property investment. Talk to your accountant or financial adviser before you buy. Japanese property has great rewards but it can be risky for inexperienced investors.”
To help your property journey we’ve asked two Japan property owners how they did it. Glenn Cullen lives in Australia and recently bought an apartment in Japan, Dan and Andy Solo started with a ski lodge in Madarao and now own multiple business properties in Nagano.
FIRST TIMER
GLENN CULLEN RECENTLY BOUGHT AN APARTMENT NOT FAR FROM SHIGA KOGEN, AND HE DID IT WITH CHANGE FROM $25,000
Here are his tips for those wanting to do the same.
Hit the web, Google Translate and emails
If you’re thinking Niseko or Nozawa and bargains, you’re 15-25 years too late. For me, I found the town of Yudanaka (12km from Shiga Kogen and close enough to Nozawa and Madarao) to be the sweet spot for
convenience, optimal skiing and price. I used these real estate websites which can be converted to English: House Goo, HatoMark and AtHome. For subsequent inquiries, use Google Translate and email prospective agents about individual properties.
Get over there and get help
You’ll want to check out the places you have an interest in. Even if they are cheap (and there are places for as little as $5,000) there are too many pros and cons to leave it to a remote transaction. I narrowed down where I wanted, flagged half a dozen apartments for viewing and then confirmed with the agents once my flights were booked. Take a local translator with you to each appointment. They are easy enough found through Facebook groups and usually accept reasonable hourly payments.
Size Matters
The cost of management fees in Japanese apartment complexes usually bears a close relationship to the size of the individual property. That cheap 80sqm apartment that you’ve just seen may not seem like such a bargain if you’re paying $8,000 a
View from Glenn’s apartment.
Photo credit: Glenn Cullen
Photo: Glenn Cullen
Photo: Glenn Cullen
year in management fees. If you want costeffective in the long-term and can live with it, consider a studio (30sqm) size where management fees may be $2,500 or less. Check the reserve too - it’s a small monthly amount that is saved to cover building repairs. If there’s not a good reserve already held, and/or management is not asking you to pay one, that could spell trouble for getting anything fixed.
Read the fine print for usage
If you’re envisaging a leisurely few weeks’ personal usage for your property and then rivers of gold from Air BNB rentals for the rest of the time, you may want to think again. There’s something called minpaku which effectively licences you to run the property as an Air BNB. With it you’re limited to 180 days of rentals, you must have a local management company to run it if you’re not physically there and it can be expensive to set up. All that may be a moot point anyway if the owners’ corporation does not allow short-term rentals. Best to get that clarified early on.
Doing the deal
I found Japanese real estate agents good to deal with and generally far more transparent than their Paco Rabanne and Tarocash wearing Aussie equivalents. Price negotiation is possible but don’t expect huge discounts on an already cheap place.
I made an offer on the apartment I liked the most - and got it. From there I paid an intermediary for around 12 hours’ work, mainly around translations, dealing directly with the agent/local council notary and help setting up subsequent payments/ongoing billing.
I also worked with Nippon Tradings who are well versed in Japanese real estate contracts. I opted for a basic service but they also have a more complete one for those who want help throughout the entire process. Settlement after an offer is accepted is usually around 2-3 months.
BUILDING A LODGE EMPIRE
DAN AND ANDY SOLO FIRST VISITED JAPAN
IN 1997, NOW THEY OWN SNOWBALL CHALET
SKI LODGE IN MADARAO, developed and manage Shiki at Tangram and Madarao Snowman Apartments and renovated and launched, Snowball Studios and Yukimi at Sano. Here they share their intel.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
We didn't know buying an old building in a climate as extreme as the Japanese Alps means you will spend a lot more on a property that hasn't been renovated than you would think.
The headline cost of a property, especially one that hasn't had a recent refurbishment is only part of the picture. You have to budget for the renovation and a big chunk of change for contingency. The real cost of the property is all those things put together and once you add it all up it could be better just to buy a done property.
Of course, we had absolutely no idea how enormously rewarding it would all be and we have never been happier. If I could go back to talk to myself I would also be saying "Do it! But do it like this..."
Why Japan?
The powder and just huge amounts of snow, the incredibly rich culture, the food (oh the food is so good) and the people are just so lovely. Choosing Japan was easy. It is a fantastic place to live year round and the winters are superb. I can't count the powder days I have had even the ones that have
Photo: Dan Solo on site
been more than 80+ centimetres.
The AUD$ to ¥ is super favourable. No matter which side of property you are interested in, buying and running your own ski lodge, building something new or having a managed investment the returns can be amazing. Also working with Japanese tradespeople who do what they say they will do on budget and on time makes it easy to have much more confidence that you can make the projects work financially.
What are the challenges?
Japanese real estate doesn't really work the same way as other places. There is no auction system and with a few exceptions there are no real estate aggregators like domain.com.au or realestate.com.au and even when there are, only a small fraction of available properties are listed.
I think a big factor is also knowing you need help and that you should try and surround yourself with smarter people than you are. You also need to think strategically about what and where you buy because that one decision has a monumental impact on the rest of your business life in Japan.
We chose the places we have purchased in because they are right near the Bullet Train from Tokyo bringing all locations to within about 2 hours total travel and they are all within close proximity to excellent skiing, lots of snow or other fabulous destination products. Madarao, Tangram for skiing and Sano for the Snow Monkeys and skiing in Shiga Kogen.
When we bought Snowball Chalet I knocked on the door of the building and asked if they would like to sell the property. Suzuki san grabbed my hand and pulled me inside. We did the deal in the lounge in 5 minutes.
What about risk?
For us from a risk perspective it makes more sense to invest in Madarao and the
Snowman Apartments, Madarao.
Snowman Apartments, Madarao.
Site blessing during construction. Photo supplied.
For us from a risk
PERSPECTIVE IT MAKES MORE SENSE TO INVEST IN MADARAO AND THE AREA NOW THAN IT DID BEFORE
area now than it did before. Even though we can no longer buy a ski lodge for ¥20,000,000 or less in a prime position on the mountain, we no longer have the risk that the ski resort is going to go bankrupt.
The huge amount of work that all the owners in the area have put into renovating properties and marketing has had a really positive impact here. There is still lots of capacity, it is nowhere near saturated from both the guest accommodation perspective or from the infrastructure perspective with lift queues normally being a few seconds and the snow just keeps on falling.
We realised there were a lot of people who wanted to invest in Japan but didn't know how so we are making other opportunities available with fully managed investments ranging from ¥25,000,000 (roughly AUD$240k) to ¥150,000,000. Investments that you don't need to change your life to run but will give you a fantastic return and a future connection to the snow of Japan.
There are other areas that people could also explore in Japan that still have that really low buy in cost. In Northern Nagano/ Niigata region Kagura, Naeba, Kurohime, Ryuoo Snow Park and Togari Onsen and up in Yamagata prefecture, lovely Zao Onsen to name a few. Remember with these resorts the risks can be higher (particularly Kurohime and Ryuoo Snow Park) but the rewards can be high too.
The main thing if you are thinking about buying a ski lodge to run yourself is don't do it if you aren't going to be an owner operator, at least for the first 3 or 4 years. We haven't seen one example really work, or at least nowhere near as well as the ones that have the person with skin in the game on the ground. Trying to do it remotely is impossible, or at least impossible to ensure guests have amazing experiences and for you to absolutely love it. SB
Snowball Chalet, Madarao.
TOP destinations & DEALS FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO JAPAN
JAPAN IS THE LAND WHERE YOUR SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING dreams come true - and all at a really good price point. But when there are so many resorts to choose from, where do you go first?
The team at Travelplan Ski specialise in this ever-popular destination, and deliver the deals to match. Here are their top picks for the upcoming winter season, with savings of up to 20%*.
NISEKO
If you want to go big, you want Niseko. There are four ski resorts all accessible via one pass, along with the deepest, driest powder, and a vibrant après scene packed with shops, bars and restaurants.
The deal: stay seven nights at Pension Berg in Hirafu, a mere 10-minute walk from the ski school, and boasting mountain views with breakfast included. From $1655* per person including a six day lift pass.
HAKUBA
Hakuba is the perfect destination for exploring more of Japan. With access to 10 ski resorts, you can ski a new one every day - plus experience traditional Japanese culture with local restaurants, temples, natural onsens and even snow monkeys in the area.
The deal: stay seven nights at the luxury
ski-in ski-out Mountain Side accommodation from $3235* per person including six day lift pass. Earlybird deal also includes 10% OFF when booking by 31st August.
FURANO
If you want to get away from the Westerns and towards a more authentic Japanese vibe, Furano is the resort for you. Packed with light-dry powder, there’s terrain here to suit all abilities and a town full of dining and accommodation options to suit all budgets.
The deal: stay seven nights at North Country Inn from $1290* per person including six day lift pass and free breakfast.
Ready to book your next Japan trip? Check out travelplan.com.au for more deals to Hokkaido and Honshu. SB
SKI JAPAN
Travelplan are the Japan specialists
Japan is a destination that is becoming increasingly popular. O ering accommodation at a range of resorts including Niseko, Japan’s #1 ski resort, Hakuba, Furano, Kiroro, Rusutsu, Shiga Kogan, Tomamu and more with Earlybird savings still available. Enquire now on these budget friendly deals.
NISEKO
Pension Berg
7 nights from $1,665pp* inc. 6 day lift pass
Includes free breakfast daily
FURANO
North Country Inn
7 nights from $1,290pp* inc. 6 day lift pass
Earlybird deal 20% OFF 5+ nights & free breakfast daily
RUSUTSU
Rusutsu Resort
7 nights from $3,165pp* inc. 6 day lift pass
Earlybird deal includes 10% OFF
HAKUBA
Mountain Side
7 nights from $3,235pp* inc. 6 days lift pass
Earlybird deal includes 10% OFF book by 31st Aug
Lost
A local ex-pat’s guide to what’s ok and not ok when travelling in Japan
TRANSLATION IN
SO MUCH IS LOST IN TRANSLATION IN JAPAN. FROM TIPPING TO EATING, DRINKING AND SKIING , we went straight to two of our favourite ex-pats who have spent combined decades calling the mountain regions of Hokkaido and Honshu home.
Cameron Black is the name behind the cult classic B3 coffee den in Otaru, Hokkaido. His under the radar coffee service is coveted by international ski and snowboard pros, locals and Aussie snow lovers who know the good stuff.
Fellow Aussie, Mark Baumann, has been skiing in Nozawa Onsen on the main island of Honshu for 33 years; first as a ski patroller before founding Nozawa Holidays accommodation service in 2005.
“Remain polite and humble,” advises Mark to visiting skiers. “We can learn a lot from the Japanese way of conducting themselves. Rarely loud in public spaces, often think of others, leave a low social impact.”
Shirakawa, Gifu.
Photo credit: Shirley/Unsplash
Kyoto, Japan.
Photo: Dale Scogings/Unsplash
DO
Pay the money and get a good guide from a reputable local guide operator based here in Japan that have ticked all the regulatory boxes. Do your research because there some excellent companies and equally dodgy ones out there. Get the good stuff and make it back safely. CB
Be aware, Japan doesn’t do pain relief (not even Panadol) and ambulances are shockingly slow so if you do get hurt, be aware of the consequences, ride to your ability and have some good insurance. CB
Learn some of the language. Makes a huge difference to your experience in Japan. MB
Be careful of overdoing the mythical cans of strong. You’ve paid too much money to be over here to then find yourself nursing a dumb hangover and making shitty turns on a POW day. CB
Carry cash, Japanese businesses don’t really do card transactions. CB
Bring your international drivers license in hard copy, not just digital, because a rental car can make a huge difference. CB
Always show gratitude. Arigatou Gozaimasu is a great phrase to learn and use as much as can. MB
Zero alcohol and driving- the long arm of the law here in Japan doesn’t care what your laws say at home. Plus you’ll always have to tick that box on your entry card that asks about criminal convictions….. CB
Be friendly - Japanese can often be shy but if you start up a conversation even say Konnichiwa most will love it. It only takes a little effort and the rewards will be many. MB
Know your onsen etiquette – There is an art to ‘onsenning’ in a country where culture and respect are imperative. So brush up on onsen etiquette before you dip your toe in. MB
Sapporo, Hokkaido.
Photo: Alex Mesmer/ Unsplash
DON’T
Walkie-talkies. If it’s not a Japanese licensed one they’re considered illegal and you can find yourself in some bother if you’re caught with one from home. CB
Avi barriers - A big no no to ski/ride if you’re caught. It’s illegal and the police might just create havoc on your holiday. Many are actually attached to the mountainside via a steel cable that can cause horrific injuries. CB
Passing food from one to another with chopsticks is considered really bad form. CB
Ski or snowboard in shrines or graveyards at your own peril, no matter how pretty it will look on the gram, you’re messing with the universe. CB
Toilet slippers are not for outside of the toilet. CB
Tipping will only cause confusion, give the money to charity boxes (usually in convenience stores) from the various natural disasters we have. CB SB
Photo: Douglas Lopez/Unsplash
Tokyo. Photo: Liam Burnett-Blue/Unsplash
Photo: Ivana Cajina/Unsplash
YOUR GEAR VS YOUR OWN Bring Rent
Photo: Hakuba 47 for Nagano Tourism
If you’ve ever lugged an entire ski bag across the world and back again, you know the internal battle that comes with every snow trip: is it worth taking all my gear with me? Or should I just get rentals at the other end? There’s a case for both, so we spoke to Lachlan Bowes from Central Snowsports in Hakuba. With three stores offering snow rentals and retail across Hakuba Valley, he talks us through the pros, the cons, and the considerations along every step of the way.
THE CONVENIENCE FACTOR
When you opt for rentals, there’s no need to navigate a bullet train or local railway line in Japan with a huge bag in tow (or try to squeeze it into a tiny Tokyo hotel room).
You can just arrive at your destination and - if you’re hiring with Central Snowsports - get taken directly to their closest rental shop to get fitted out.
“If you’re a customer who has booked online with us, we pick you up directly from the train or bus station once you’ve arrived in Hakuba, and bring you instore,” Lachlan explains. “All you need to do is jump on Whatsapp and let us know what time you’re arriving.”
Once you’ve picked out your boots and equipment, you’ll be taken directly back to your hotel, along with all your luggage and gear.
At the end of your stay, you can even leave all your rental gear behind in your accommodation and it’ll be collected. How’s that for door-to-door service?
VARIETY OF CHOICE
How many pairs of skis do you own? And for what snow conditions? Powder? Groomers? Something in between? With rentals, it doesn’t matter about your answer to any of those questionsthe technicians can guide you to the best option for the week of your stay.
The Central Snowsports team stock the largest and widest range of skis and boards in Hakuba Village, covering everything from powder to park, allmountain and backcountry. They’ve even introduced new Burton Step-On snowboard binding rentals, which Lachlan says is a game-changer for the snowboarders “sick of sitting down to put their bindings on”.
If you’re a beginner on the slopes, you can swap your skis for a snowboard - or vice versa - during the course of your rental, should you find your initial choice doesn’t quite suit.
THE GEAR LOVERS
Finding it hard to leave your gear behind? Lachlan suggests packing your boots, helmet and outerwear, then just hiring the best skis or board to suit the conditions once you’ve arrived.
“Rentals haven’t gone up too much in price over the last twenty years,” Lachlan says.
“So you can still pick up a premium piece of equipment for the time you’re on the slopes, then enjoy the rest of your holiday around Japan without having to take it with you.”
Heading to Hakuba next season and looking for ski and snowboard rentals? You can pre-book rentals online to enjoy the benefits of the Central Snowsports guest shuttle and more. SB
TOKYO TRAVEL 10 tips for with your grommets
BY NATALIA HAWK
From apps to hotels and everything in between, we’ve got 10 must-knows to make sure your next Tokyo stopover adventure with your little snow explorers runs smoothly.
1
Get a hotel with room to roam
Space is at a premium in the city, and some rooms are so tight, you’ll struggle to even open a suitcase. If the little legs in your family are used to bigger spaces, search carefully for apartment-style hotels across the city with family-friendly amenities - Mimaru Ueno East, for example, has a rooftop terrace perfect for kids to get their wiggles out in a safe space.
2
Pack nappies and wipes
See above point about space being at a premium: because of this, you likely won’t find nappies or wipes in convenience stores. If you have a preferred brand, be sure to pack enough to see you through your trip; otherwise, save yourself the time searching and go straight to a Babies R Us or AkachanHonpo (family store) once you arrive.
3
… But also pack light (and then even lighter)
It’s easy to overpack, especially when travelling in the colder months, but Tokyo streets are busy and not all train stations or multi-level department stores have lifts. Be ruthless with your culling (except for the nappies of course) so you can avoid being the family holding everyone up. If you have ski gear, utilise the Yamato Transport (aka Black Cat) service at the airport to whisk your bags straight to the slopesfor about $20-30AUD per bag, your skis/ jackets/helmets will be there and waiting.
4
Opt for carriers over prams
Unless you’ve got the zippiest of little travel prams, there’s not much space for them in restaurants or anywhere else, especially destinations like the Tsukiji Outer Market for fresh seafood. Pack your carrier if your kids are young enough to use one - they will save you!
5
Discover all the cool kid-oriented destinations
Tokyo has Disneyland but also the world’s only DisneySea, which is well worth a visit, especially if your kids are closer to pre-teen age. There’s also Kidzania, which is a mini world run entirely by kids; Sanrio Puroland for Hello Kitty lovers; Sumo Stables for sumo-wrestler watching; and unforgettable ninja kids experiences.
6
Actually - everything is cool
It’s not all about the kids. Places like Tokyo Skytree, the new teamLab Borderless and even Shibuya Crossing are so fun, everyone in the family will be talking about them for days. Cultural
Photo: Rachael Oake-Ash
Photo: teamLab Borderless
experiences such as Meiji Shrine and Senso-Ji temple are also well worth it for all ages. For paid attractions, pre-buy your tickets on Klook for easy access and the best prices.
7
… And unique
If you have an interest in the family, just google it, because Tokyo is wild and wacky enough that they’ll probably have something that matches it; like the unbelievably popular Pokemon Cafe (book in advance, trust us), or even the Tokyo Poop (Unko) Museum
8
Download apps to help
While the rail system may seem overwhelming at first, getting a Suica Card on your Apple Wallet is an easy tap-and-go solution through the gates, and Google Maps has impeccable instructions for getting everywhere you need to go, down to the platform you need to stand on. Google Translate also helps (especially the camera feature, which translates labels - very handy at
“
There’s also Kidzania, WHICH IS A MINI WORLD RUN ENTIRELY BY KIDS
the convenience store). And finally, an eSim will ensure you never get too stuck, no matter where you are.
9
Budget wisely
The yen is great right now and will take you far, but transport - especially bullet trains and taxis - can quickly drain the wallet. Be prepared by budgeting for your transfers, and keep some cash on you in case somewhere doesn’t accept card. We liked the Wise app for quickly converting money on the go and keeping an eye on the exchange rate.
10
Enjoy the wild ride
Whether you’ve completely thrown out the nap schedule or the kids refuse to eat anything except the 7/11 rice balls (they are delicious, to be fair) try to embrace the chaos; the memories are so worth it! SB
Photo: Rachael Oakes-Ash
Photo: Daily Chiko
FR o M B o GAN
Photo credit: Darren Teasdale
TO BOUJEE
The evolution of Niseko, the Hokkaido resort that started it all
BY RACHAEL OAKES-ASH
NISEKO, THREE SYLLABLES THAT HAVE DIVIDED OLD SCHOOL VERSUS NEW SCHOOL SKIERS AND BOARDERS FOR DECADES. With Hokusai style postcard views to the iconic Mt Yotei, 15 metres of dry-Siberianinfluenced snow a season and just two hours from Chitose airport in Sapporo, it was only a matter of time before it was “discovered” on a world stage.
Photo
Photo credit: Darren Teasdale
Photo credit: Darren Teasdale
Those foreigners who originally ventured to this farming village with a ski resort in the post Sapporo Winter Olympics fever in the 70s and the Japan boom of the 80s came for the metres and metres of super dry snow that Hokkaido was (and is) known for. They discovered an authentic Japanese agricultural region with a handful of local owned bars, no crowds and untracked snow for days.
By the time Japan’s economy crashed in the 90s four separate resorts existed on the one mountain, Grand Hirafu (originally Niseko Kogen Kanko 1961), Annapuri (1972), Higashiyama (1982 later renamed Niseko Village) and Hanazono (1992). Collectively known today as Niseko United.
While some wanted to keep the now struggling powder mecca of Niseko for themselves, others saw opportunity.
Australian entrepreneurs Peter Murphy (SkiJapan) and Dale and Glenn Goulding (Deep Powder Tours) started bringing Aussie snow tourists in the nineties in search of cheap lift passes, mega snowfalls and Japanese culture.
They got all three, but at a price.
THE AUSSIE INVASION
As word got out, real estate got snapped up, and the Australian invasion settled into the early 2000s, the reputation of badly behaved Aussie skiers on budget holidays made headlines and the town of Niseko became known as “Bali on snow.” Much to the chagrin of both the reserved Japanese locals and the quieter powder achievers drawn to the serenity of Japan snow life.
More savvy Aussies dollars riding the wave of change invested in Niseko, drawn to what could be. Rhythm Japan, set up in 2005 by Cooma locals Mick Klima and Matt Hampton, cemented themselves as the premier retail outlet for skiers and snowboarders in Niseko, opening seven
Photo credit: MUWA Niseko
Photo credit: Niseko Tourism
Photo credit: Darren Teasdale
Dear Niseko
It’s not you, it’s me.
Well actually, it is you, but I’m still so deeply in love with everything you are that I would prefer to take the blame. Over 15 years ago I came to you as a wide eyed young man who had chased snow all around the world. Always searching for the next powder turn and pillow to jump off. You took me in, you seduced me with your super deep powder that resets almost daily, your amazing tree runs, virtually no lift lines and ticket prices that were less than a tank of fuel back home in Australia.
I have the fondest memories of visiting every little restaurant that dotted your streets and dancing the night away in small Japanese bars before bed and then getting up early for an onsen in the lower village.
But Niseko, my love, you are changing.
I love your new chairlift with heated seats for one. Do I need a heated seat, probably not, but it does feel nice and makes for a good conversation starter when you’re trapped under a hooded bubble with strangers.
Do I need a Louis Vuitton yurt? No, don’t need that either, but I know your eyes have wandered far from mine and are now chasing the dollars that don’t come with an Aussie slang.
So I can turn a blind eye to a yurt or two.
With change comes evolution and I love the food truck village that has popped up in the middle of your village. I don’t liken that this has happened through necessity, as so many original restaurants have been swallowed by the ever hungry development machine.
When I long for our honeymoon days so many years ago, I head to the Green Farm cafe for a burger and coffee or Bar Gyu for a cocktail in the evening, where I can still always get in. Jam Bar and Ebisutei have hardly changed since my first visit all those years ago and as a last resort, Lawson and Seicomart convenience stores, although often crowded, still have fresh snacks at the ready.
But your lack of parking and huge traffic jams to get into or out of the village at peak times just keep growing every season. Come summer, your village resembles an abandoned city in a sci-fi movie with a majority of the hotels and businesses closed and curtains drawn.
And contrary to some people’s beliefs, I expect ticket prices to rise. I accept these costs because, even with the current increases, your prices are still cheaper than most resorts in Australia, Europe, Canada and the States.
I am also aware that you need to attract business and be busy to maintain being open.
So even though your lift lines are longer than before, I still don’t think I have waited more than five minutes to get on a chair.
All of these I can live with and understand are a product of development and growth. But the thing that made me look at you differently was when you shut down half of the night skiing area. Why? I have so many good memories of snowboarding through the trees at night and ripping super deep, nighttime powder turns with friends after a big day of work. The closure of such a large area was heartbreaking.
I do love you, with all of my slightly broken heart. I moved here for you, I run a business here, bought a house, started my own family of snowboard mad rugrats and introduced you to my parents.
I just think we need some time apart.
You know I will be back, I always am, every December when you are all dressed up in your white powder snow, your lifts start turning and the heaters go on across your village I come running back into your arms, excited as ever to see you and show you my new snowboard and outerwear. And no, they won’t be Louis Vuitton.
Dear Niseko, I know, deep down, you’re still there.
DARREN TEASDALE
Photo credit: Darren Teasdale
stores across Hokkaido and Honshu from rentals to high-end retail over a seven year period. The American outdoor retail brand evo would eventually acquire Rhythm Japan 17 years later.
With direct Qantas flights from Cairns in Australia to Sapporo in 2004, two Australian developers also saw opportunity and the option to make some serious money. Hotham’s former Managing Director Colin Hackworth and Minter Ellison lawyer Roger Donazzan, husband of Qantas chairpersonat-the-time Margaret Jackson, partnered together to purchase Niseko’s Hanazono lift company and land. They exchanged keys with a ten year $300m investment plan for an upscale property development boasting 8000 beds and a new name, Hanazono Niseko
Three years later the duo sold to Hong Kong billionaire Richard Li’s Pacific Century Premium Developments company and Qantas soon stopped flying from Cairns. Hackworth stayed on as a director of Nihon Harmony Resorts and with Li’s name at the helm the option to attract both cashed up ex-pats and locals from Hong Kong and Shanghai also brought a demand for more monied attractions.
Enter the Niseko era of serious financial investment.
RICH ASIA TAKES NOTICE
Aman Resorts render of Niseko development
Photo credit: Darren Teasdale
Higashiyama Niseko Village, Ritz Carlton Reserve
Higashiyama Niseko Village, Ritz Carlton Reserve
Higashiyama Niseko Village, Ritz Carlton Reserve
Li wasn’t the only billionaire to invest, on the other side of the mountain Niseko Village ski resort was bought by Malaysian billionaire Yeoh ti Lang’s YTL Hotels and Properties in 2010. The deal included the Hilton, Green Leaf Hotel, golf courses and lift infrastructure.
By 2014 YTL had refurbed the 200 room Green Leaf with New-York based firm Champalimaud Design. Then, in 2017, the company launched the Kasara luxury townhouses followed by the all-suite Hinode Hills in 2019. At the height of the pandemic the ultra-exclusive Higashiyama Niseko Village by Ritz Carlton Reserve (the first and only Reserve label in Japan) opened in late 2020.
Meanwhile Richard Li’s ultra exclusive Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono, complete with Pierre Hermis Paris high teas, also opened during the pandemic and more recently hosted the famed Louis Vuitton Yurt (and gondola wrap).
It’s no wonder Niseko was now being referred to as the Aspen of the East.
When Singapore top 50 rich lister Simon Cheong’s SC Global decided to branch into hotel development, guess where he chose? Niseko. Setsu Niseko opened in late 2022 and has already secured a Michelin Key, one of seven awarded to hotels in the ski resort this year with the first Michelin Key guide in Japan. All this luxuy hotel development isn’t stopping any time soon, either. Hong Kong based Rosewood Hotel Group will open a New World La Plume Resort this coming season and Japan’s Hoshino Resorts will open the doors on HOSHINOYA Hütte on the top of Hirafu with a roof top onsen overlooking Mt Yotei by 2028.
Add IHG’s Six Senses, Nikko Style and Marriott’s millennial Moxy brand plus the crème de la crème, the highly coveted Aman Resorts all scheduled for openings over the next three years.
And that doesn’t even include the villa scene where residences can go for up to $30,000 a night. What cost-of-living-crisis?
Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono
Aman Resort residences render of Niseko development.
Setsu Niseko
Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono
Higashiyama Niseko Village, Ritz Carlton Reserve
Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono
DO YOU EVEN LIFT?
The “new” Niseko skier and boarder may come for the hotel names and Michelin dining scene making its mark since the 2013 Hokkaido guide was launched but the core skier and boarder, that hasn’t already fled to other parts of the island, still heads here for the mega snow offerings both within the 2191 acres of resort terrain and the plethora of backcountry past the gates.
With all these new beds, the famed single pizza chairs of Japan are no longer going to cut it. Fast lift systems are crucial in a fast growing resort originally known for no lift lines and untracked powder.
Niseko has had more lift upgrades than many in Japan. In the last fifteen years alone chairs have been upgraded to gondolas or installed with cushions and hoods for wild weather, two seaters have become four seaters and four seaters have become 10 seaters. This coming season the much anticipated
10 person gondola replacing the 38 year old Center Four at Grand Hirafu will open with the capacity to carry 1000 more people per hour than before and the King Quad Lift #3 will be replaced with a new 6 seater high speed come 2025 (able to carry 600 more per hour).
There’s much needed terrain expansion on the horizon too, Hanazono has big plans to develop the neighbouring Weiss mountain, currently used for cat skiing, with three lifts and a connecting gondola to Niseko.
If you got in on the ground property floor of Niseko then you’ll already be laughing. Though your bank manager will be laughing more as there’s even more growth on the market thanks to the shinkansen bullet train set to launch in 2030 that will cut Sapporo to Kutchan (Niseko) travel time from 2 hours to 25 minutes. Skiers will even be able to take a 4.5 hour bullet train from Tokyo to Kutchan, no need for connecting flights and buses. Nis Vegas has now come of age. SB
ONE STEP OUT OF THE RESORT BOUNDARY AND YOU’RE IN
powder pitch paradise “
Photo: Shiga Kogen for Nagano Tourism
JAPAN Everyone’s
BY NATALIA HAWK
THE BEST THING ABOUT JAPAN IS THAT THERE’S A SKI DESTINATION OR EXPERIENCE TO SUIT EVERYONE - and often at a fraction of the cost of other places. Choose your style from our list below, then pick the spot to match your vibe and boom, your next ski or snowboard trip is sorted.
For the fam
TOMAMU SKI RESORT, HOKKAIDO
Imagine Disneyland on snow, and you have Tomamu. With an 80-metre long heated indoor wave pool, an Ice Village with ice slide, ice skating rink and whiskey served in carved ice glasses plus nightly fireworks, a ski-in ski-out retail street, tubing, dog-sledding and even a Club Med. Plus super light dry powder and access to some backcountry for the advanced to expert skiers and boarders in the family.
RUSUTSU RESORT, HOKKAIDO
Rusutsu Resort, forty five minutes from Niseko in Hokkaido, is a theme park, literally. You’ll ski underneath and around
rollercoasters and ferris wheels, which close for the winter but form part of the unique landscape at this resort. Ski and snowboard the wide powder runs and famed steeper tree runs here and slip into the resort base hotel for some arcade entertainment including a singing tree (no word of a lie).
MYOKO KOGEN, HONSHU
Picture-perfect Myoko is laidback and mega family-friendly, with the Akakura Onsen side of the ski area particularly mellow while still offering a variety of fun runs to experience with skiers and boarders of all abilities. With lots of lodges and chalets to choose from in town, this is the top pick for a cosy and authentic Japanese experience. Bonus: There’s an excellent English-speaking day care at the base run by the delightful team at Myoko Snowsports. Did we mention proximity to 10 resorts within 45 minutes .
KIRORO RESORT, HOKKAIDO
Bought in 2021 by the team at Club Med, Kiroro Resort now serves up its famous mega metre by metre of powder snowfall with some all-inclusive fun on the side. Club Med Kiroro Peak welcomes children 12 years and older, while Club Med Kiroro Grand offers the Petit Club, Mini Club and Junior Club for all the kids. All-inclusive means entertainment, meals, lift passes and lessons are included. There’s also Yu Kiroro for self-contained condo accommodation.
Photo: Tomamu Ice Village, Tomamu
The advanced
ASAHIDAKE, DAISETSUZAN RANGE HOKKAIDO
Mount Asahi is the tallest mountain in Hokkaido and part of the Daisetsuzan Volcanic Group. Skiing and snowboarding on the volcano here in the Ishikari Mountains kind of feels like you’re on another planet: you get a lone cable car to the top, where geysers gush with steam and make for the most incredible photo opportunities. Beyond the pics, though, the skiing here is incredible; backcountry-style, some tree skiing, cat tracks and the like and best for advanced to expert skiers. Be warned, weather is variable.
TANIGAWADAKE TENJINDAIRA, GUNMA HONSHU
If you’re here for the steeps, then bring a guide. Tenjin, as it’s known, translates to “sky god” and the terrain is some of the steepest in the country. Think of it as lift accessed backcountry and all the hazards that come with that. If you know what you’re doing, how to read terrain, have avalanche gear and that guide we mentioned then this is a skiing and boarding paradise. A ropeway will take you to the top, further hiking will get you into chutes and cliffs and super steep tree runs.
BACKCOUNTRY HAKUBA, NAGANO HONSHU
Head to the top of Happo One in Hakuba and be blown away by the 3000m + mountain peaks of the famed Japan Alps. One step out of the resort boundary and you’re in powder pitch paradise, but only if you know what you’re doing. Dave Enright from Evergreen Backcountry Guides in Hakuba was initially a ski patroller who campaigned for people to be able to ride off-piste areas within resort boundaries. He now spends the season guiding people through the 3000m-high Hakuba mountain peaks and all the top-notch powder skiing they have to offer. Take him, enjoy a full day amongst the elements and thank us later.
HAKKODA, AOMORI PREFECTURE NORTHERN HONSHU
The snow monsters of Hakkoda are famous. Snow laden trees that take the form of giant white ghosts and provide a myriad of skiing and snowboarding playgrounds. With over 15 metres of fresh snowfall every year, Hakkoda is considered a mecca for powder lovers. A ropeway takes you to the very top of the 1324m-high peak of Mt Tamoyachidake, again we advise taking a local guide to explore the terrain. You can ski up to 7km on a single run, with 650m of vertical, but it’s the untracked terrain that lures advanced skiers and boarders.
Skier Dave Enright / Evergreen Backcountry
Tenjindaira. Photo: Gunma Tourism
Guided life
BACKCOUNTRY NOZAWA WITH CANYON TOURS
Those heading to Nozawa Onsen, save yourself a day or two for a tour with Canyon Tours. They’re the only official Englishspeaking backcountry guides in Nozawa, and keep group sizes small to maximise the good times (and fresh lines). Led by experienced, seasoned guides to find you the untouched powder spots, the terrain will be catered for your level and interests.
AKI’S NORTH NAGANO BACKCOUNTRY TOURS IN MADARAO
Madarao is one of Nagano’s best winter wonderlands, but you need a local to show you through the best spots safely. See the backcountry powder fields and glades firsthand with tours run by Aki and his team of local guides that assess the daily snow conditions to choose the best option. Bonus 1 - There’s not too much hiking, generally just 20 to 30 mins to reach the top of Madarao Mountain. Bonus 2 - You can get the best pizza or burger in town afterwards, because Aki’s North Nagano operation also runs a cafe serving them up.
HOKKAIDO MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCE IN NISEKO
Hokkaido is known for its light, dry, amazing powder snow, thanks to those weather patterns which sweep in from Siberia and pick up the moisture from the sea along the way. All that dumps on the mountains here, and you can find the best tours to discover the powder with Hokkaido Mountain Experience. Get
off the beaten track to find the very best in this snow-covered paradise in Moiwa and Niseko, whether you want resort-based guiding with lift-accessed backcountry or deep touring adventures on Mount Yotei.
ALPINE BACKCOUNTRY GUIDES, TOMAMU
Uncover the expert side of Furano and surrounds with the team from Alpine Backcountry Guides. Founded by Australian John Morrell, who ran his first guided tour in central Hokkaido all the way back in 1984, the team here have been running since 2012 and is now looked after by his son, Sam. The two of them know just about every nook and cranny of the local area and resorts, and offer a range of tours including the Hokkaido Powder Belt and Asahidake and the Tokachi Mountains. SB
Skier Dave Enright / Evergreen Backcountry
WHEN TRAVEL GOES
Wrong
APhotographer Jason King was 48 and skiing in Tohoku Japan when he had a life-threatening medical episode. This is his story.
FEW YEARS BACK I WAS INVITED ON AN INDUSTRY SNOW TRIP TO NORTH TOHOKU. We had a good fun group, half of whom either knew Miss Snow It All or wrote for her.
Most of the tour was exploring the deep powder of Japan in less-discovered resorts. I thought myself a decent skier, but I hadn’t been in this kind of powder and it wasn’t as easy as I imagined so I generally stayed to the side of the pool-fills of fluff and had a good time on the mountain.
On this day we were heading to the last resort of the tour, Tazawako Ski Resort. We spent the transfer time on the coach watching Richard Gere’s Hachi: A Dog’s Tale. I was tired after “singing” with the group for a few hours the night before at karaoke (my first time) in Appi Kogen. We may have downed a few too many “courage-fuel” alcoholic soft drinks.
My first run at Tazawako was magical, lightly powder dusted hero snow. Two of the girls in the group, Jas and Jen, met me at the
bottom and as we chatted about where-to next I dropped my glove.
I bent down to pick it up but for some reason I couldn’t. I kept trying for what felt like five minutes and when I stood up and tried to say “that’s taking a bloody long time,” looks of concern clouded the girls faces. When Jen asked me to say my name all I remember was shaking my head before slumping to the ground.
I did see Jas snowboard off and thought “thanks a lot.” What I didn’t realise was that she went for ski patrol, while Jen made me comfortable.
I passed out again after a few minutes, waking up for about ten seconds in the “blood bucket” being taken down to the main resort station. I woke again in an ambulance for a few seconds and then again at a hospital, but I strangely felt calm the whole time.
I had lost my speech, was paralysed down my right side and the only upside was that my “care centre” was impacted. It was like I was epically stoned the whole time, totally chill about everything. I had had a stroke.
The ambulance had to find a hospital with a stroke specialist. This took a while, but once admitted the hospital service was amazing. Besides the fact no-one spoke English and I didn’t speak Japanese nor could actually talk anyway.
The famed Japanese efficiency and cleanliness blooms in a hospital environment. There’s a correct amount of staff employed, when you press a buzzer someone arrives promptly and the food is as good as restaurant fare. Though I had to work my way up from bread and jam to whole fish on the bone.
No-one knew how long it would take for me to recover my speech or if I would be paralysed permanently. I was able to slur again within 48 hours but it would be another three months before I had strong speech again. Thankfully it took the first week of recovery to regain my ability to walk. But my short-term memory is now permanently shot.
THE MEDICAL TEAM
GAVE ME A 36 PIECE
JIGSAW PUZZLE I HAD TO DO DAILY TO
retrain my brain “
The medical team gave me a 36 piece jigsaw puzzle I had to do daily to retrain my brain. The first time took me 90 minutes, now it takes 30 seconds, but it still gives me nightmares.
Travel insurance thankfully covered all the medical expenses (don’t travel without it) and a good friend and my mother both flew to Japan to be with me and talk with the medical team via Google translate. I was in hospital for a week then had to stay in the area for another week before I was allowed to fly. Covid then shut down Australia’s borders two weeks after I left Japan to return home to a month in a stroke-recovery unit.
I was unluckily lucky. My friends recognized what was happening immediately and I got help quickly, I was in Japan where hospital care is top notch, the Nihon Travel Agency team immediately got hold of my family and I had travel insurance to cover my expenses. I can’t thank all of them enough.
Weirdly though, I have one remaining side effect. A hyper focused obsession with the Akita Inu dog from the Hachi film and now own so many items with Japanese Akita dogs on them.
The medical team tell me my brain hit reboot from the last thing I remember.
Extras Tokyo
Photo: Yoav Aziz/Unsplash
Put these on your list and discover the best of Tokyo for urban lovers
COFFEE LOVERS IN TOKYO head to Kiyosumi Shirakawa, an historic old-town suburb in east Tokyo that’s become the coffee capital with caffeine dens, holein-the-walls and roasteries. Try Koffee Mameya Kakeru for tasting degustation style menus and servers in lab coats; Arise coffee roasters for laid back pour-over in a dishevelled corner store; Rikashitsu Distillery for a scientific approach; AllPress for a taste of Kiwi home and Blue Bottle for Americana. Drop into Tokyo’s Musuem of Contemporary Art while you’re in the district.
RAMEN IS LIFE – make sure you download Ramen Beast app before touching down in Japan. This handy app will show you the best Ramen within minutes of wherever you are standing (no chains, no tourist traps).
WELCOME SUICA – grab yourself a 28 day Welcome Suica card when you arrive
at Haneda or Narita airport. You can use it on JR East trains, subways and buses and use it to for e-money for vending machines and food on the train.
TOKYO IS A HAVEN FOR VINTAGE DESIGNER RAGS AND BAGS – try any of the Ragtag, Kindal and 2nd Street locations for clothing or head to Bookoff Super Bazaarin Kawasaki and get lost for hours in racks of vintage glam. Chicago in Shiomokitazawa vintage thrift district will serve you up more leather jackets and Americana jeans than you can carry home. Try Amore Vintage in Harajuku for Chanel bags, Casanova Vintage in Shibuyu for Birkins, LV monograms, Dior saddles and retro Chanel and Vintage Qoo also in Shibuya for Bottega Veneta and friends.
JORUDAN WILL GET YOU AROUND JAPAN. This route planner app and website shows you all train options, timetables, platforms and station details.
Photos: Rachael Oakes-Ash
Land of Japow
his ʻn hers tees & hoodies for Japan skiers/boarders
