The Press Democrat Cookbook: Feast Favorites

FEAST FAVORITES 2021 ■ THE PRESS DEMOCRAT

A COOKBOOK FROM THE PRESS DEMOCRAT

Feast FAVORITES 2021

$6.95

$6.95

ORGANIZING YOUR E V E R Y D AY L I F E S T Y L E

601 ELSA DRIVE, SUITE B | SANTA ROSA, C A 95407 707.843.7544 | HELLO@STUDIO-H-DESIGNS.COM OPEN BY APPOINTMENT

ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

Contents

INTRODUCTION ................................................................................ 4 APPETIZERS ...................................................................................... 5 SALADS ............................................................................................... 18 SOUPS ................................................................................................. 26 PASTA ................................................................................................. 38 MEAT ENTREES ................................................................................ 46 FISH & SEAFOOD .............................................................................. 64 VEGETARIAN ..................................................................................... 76 BREAKFAST & BRUNCH ................................................................... 82 DESSERTS ........................................................................................... 92 COCKTAILS & MOCKTAILS .............................................................. 104 PAIRING FOOD AND DRINKS .......................................................... 113 CHEFS WHO SHARED FAVORITES ................................................. 117 INDEX ................................................................................................. 119

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FEAST FAVORITES Contents

LAMPERTICONTRACTING CONTRACTING&& DESIGN LAMPERTI

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CHARLIE GESELL

Share in our favorites

Visitors from all over come to Sonoma County not just for the wine but for the food, for the fresh produce, seasonal cooking and simply delicious flavors of our region.

Each week in our Sonoma Feast section, The Press Democrat brings readers ways to take advantage of our culinary bounty, with recipes from local chefs, bakers, winemakers and restaurateurs. In this first Press Democrat cookbook, we’ve collected some of the best recipes from the past several years of Feast.

In these pages, you can sample spring veggies, grill your best burger, bake comforting desserts

and shake homegrown cocktails and mocktails for entertaining family and friends.

The recipes are accompanied by the food photography of our award-winning Press Democrat staff. Individual chapters are devoted to appetizers; salads; meat, seafood and vegetarian entrees; desserts; cocktails and more. Also, chef and cookbook author John Ash offers wine pairing suggestions in a special section following the recipes.

Enjoy these tasty dishes as you make a toast to spring and the top-notch food and wine that have flourished together to become synonymous with Sonoma County.

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© 2021 Sonoma Media Investments

pressdemocrat.com

Chief Executive Officer Steve Falk Editor Richard A. Green

427 Mendocino Avenue Santa Rosa, CA 95401

4

FEAST FAVORITES Introduction

Chief Financial Officer Stephen Daniels Chief Revenue Officer Troy Niday Chief Revenue Officer Karleen Arnink-Pate Advertising Director Joanne Herrfeldt Production Director Mark Flaviani Specialty Content Manager Ken Jaggie

Marketing Consultants Robert Lee, Julia Joslyn and Robert Manley Managing Editor Antonie Boessenkool Contributing Editor Diane Peterson Design Director Jonathan Byrd Director of Photography Chad Surmick

Staff photographers John Burgess, Christopher Chung, Kent Porter and Beth Schlanker Contributing photographers Erik Castro, Charlie Gessell, Alvin A.H. Jornada and Katie Rummel Designer Elissa Torres Copy Editor Gina Willis

APPETIZERS

Kimchi Bacon Deviled Eggs Gently remove the egg yolks from the whites and place into the bowl of a food processor. Arrange the whites on a plate and refrigerate.

Chop the bacon into small pieces and cook in a pan over medium heat until crispy. Drain, retaining the bacon fat. Cool the chopped bacon. Separate the kimchi from the liquid, retaining the juice for later, and chop.

Makes 24 servings

1

dozen hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved 4 slices bacon ½ cups cabbage kimchi with liquid (store-bought or homemade) ¾ cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons ice water — Salt and pepper

Add 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat, half the chopped kimchi, the kimchi juice, a quarter of the chopped bacon and the mayonnaise to the food processor. Pulse until mostly smooth. Add the water and pulse again four to five times, scraping down the sides as necessary, until silky and smooth. Check the texture of the yolks and add more mayonnaise if it seems too dry or more water if the mixture seems too thick or oily.

Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed. Do not add too much bacon fat or the mixture will become too firm.

Remove the egg whites from the fridge. Transfer the yolk mixture to a large Ziploc bag or a pastry bag with a round tip. Cut the bottom corner of the Ziploc and squeeze the mixture into each egg, filling just over the edge of the yolk hole. Top each egg with a pinch of the remaining kimchi and sprinkle the bacon over each egg. Eggs, without the toppings, will hold for up to two days in the fridge.

— Liza Hinman PAIRING SUGGESTION: Eggs are difficult to pair with wine, as egg yolks can give a metallic taste with certain wines. Avoid wines with high tannins and go for a crisp sparkling wine or brew instead.

FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

5

JOHN BURGESS

Beet and Butter Bean Hummus Boil the beet until tender, then cut into wedges. Heat the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and sugar over medium heat until it starts to bubble.

Makes about 1 pint

Stir in beet wedges and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated and the beets are coated with glaze, about 6 to 8 minutes.

— Pinch salt — Pinch sugar 1 14.5-ounce can butter

Add the beets and the rest of the ingredients to a food processor or a Vitamix and blend until smooth and creamy. Taste for seasoning.

2 11/2 1-2 1 1/2

1 large red beet — Olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Garnish with toasted pistachios, shredded mint and pickled carrot and serve with grilled focaccia or ciabatta.

— Barney McGrath PAIRING SUGGESTION: Try a medium-bodied dry rosé or a New World sauvignon blanc with its tropical fruit flavors.

6

FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

beans, rinsed and drained cloves garlic tablespoons tahini lemons, juiced teaspoon salt cup water

For garnish — Toasted pistachios — Shredded mint — Pickled carrot

JOHN BURGESS

Carrot Hummus with Cumin and Cilantro Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place carrots on a roasting pan and cover with olive oil, salt, maple syrup, cumin and turmeric. Cover and cook until soft, 20 to 30 minutes.

Chop the carrots and scrape the brown bits at the bottom of the roasting pan into a food processor or Vitamix.

Add the tahini, juices, salt, cilantro and water and process until smooth and creamy. Garnish with almonds, raita and pickled cauliflower and serve with flatbread or naan.

— Barney McGrath PAIRING SUGGESTION: An off-dry riesling or gewürztraminer or cider could match the sweetness of this dish.

Makes 1 pint

1 — — 2 1 1 11/2 1 1/2 1 1/2 1/2

pound carrots, peeled Sprinkle olive oil Pinch salt tablespoons maple syrup teaspoon cumin teaspoon turmeric tablespoons tahini orange, juiced lemon, juiced teaspoon salt cup cilantro, chopped cup water

For garnish — Slivered almonds — Cucumber raita — Pickled cauliflower

FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

7

Spring Pea Toast with Radishes Shell the peas. Thinly slice the white and tender green parts of the onions.

Heat the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and a pinch of salt and saute for 1 minute or until softened. Add peas and saute 5 to 7 minutes or until tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and stir in 2 tablespoons mint.

While peas are cooking, toast the bread. Cut one garlic clove in half and rub over one side of each toasted bread slice.

Combine the peas, olive oil, one grated garlic clove and juice of one lemon in a food processor or blender. Pulse until roughly pureed.

Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Spread bread evenly with pea mixture and top with radishes and feta. Sprinkle with remaining mint and flake sea salt.

— Lia Huber

Makes 4 servings

2

pounds fresh English peas (in the pod) 4 ounces spring onions (about 2 onions) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter — Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 3 tablespoons fresh mint 4 slices rustic, whole-grain bread 2 cloves garlic 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 lemon, juiced ½ cup thinly sliced radishes 1 ounce feta cheese, crumbled — Flake sea salt, such as Maldon

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Pair with a crisp, clean white, such as unoaked chardonnay, chablis or sauvignon blanc.

Creamy Dill Dipping Sauce for Veggie Sticks Place sour cream and yogurt in a medium-size bowl and whisk in remaining ingredients. Stir until well blended. Keeps in refrigerator for up to a week. Serve with vegetable sticks.

— Domenica Catelli PAIRING SUGGESTION: A slightly off-dry riesling or gewürztraminer could balance the acid of the yogurt and vinegar here.

Makes 1 cup

1/3 1/3 2 2 ½ ½ ¾ 1

8

FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

cup sour cream cup plain yogurt (nonfat or regular) or kefir teaspoons dried dill or 1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped teaspoons granulated garlic teaspoon honey tablespoon white wine vinegar teaspoon salt cup red bell pepper, celery, carrots or broccoli, cut for dipping

BETH SCHLANKER

ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

Potato Latkes

Combine the grated/pulsed onion and the egg in a mixing bowl.

Using the large side of a box grater, grate the potatoes in large strips into a strainer suspended over a bowl. Once the potatoes are grated, squeeze out as much excess potato liquid as you can into a separate bowl, then mix thoroughly with the onion and egg mixture.

Let the liquid from the potatoes settle for 5 minutes, then carefully pour off the water that has collected, being sure to save the potato starch that has settled on the bottom. Scrape the starch into the latke mix; add the matzo meal, chives and parsley along with some salt and pepper and mix thoroughly. Cover the mix with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator for 20 minutes to allow the matzoh meal to absorb some of the liquid.

Place a cast-iron skillet or saute pan over medium heat with enough canola oil to generously coat/float on the bottom of the pan. When the oil is hot but not smoking, stir the latke mix to make sure the liquids are evenly distributed and spoon a heaping tablespoon of the mix into the pan. Press down to flatten the mix and repeat until you have filled the pan with as many hors d’oeuvre-size latkes as will fit. Cook over medium heat until the bottoms are nicely golden brown. Flip latkes and cook the second side the same way (approximately 4 to 5 minutes per side).

Makes 40 hors d’oeuvre-size servings

1

When the latkes are done, remove to a paper towel to absorb any excess oil and sprinkle with a touch of salt. Place on a clean baking sheet to keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the rest of the latkes.

Serve with Citrus-Cured Salmon; sour cream or crème fraîche, chopped parsley, chopped chives, capers and lemon.

PAIRING SUGGESTION: For this rich recipe, especially if serving with Citrus-Cured Salmon, try a crisp sparkling wine or a lemony, light-bodied white such as sauvignon blanc or pinot gris. If serving with the salmon, you could pair with lesser-known whites in the same category as pinot gris, such as verdejo or vermentino.

10

FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

medium onion, peeled, grated and quickly pulsed in a food processor 1 large egg 2 pounds large russet potatoes, peeled and kept cold in the fridge ¼ cup matzoh meal 2 tablespoons chives, sliced thin 2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped — Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Citrus-Cured Salmon Mix all ingredients together except the salmon. Place a large piece of plastic wrap on the counter and put half the salt mixture in a layer about the same size as the salmon in the middle of the plastic wrap.

Place the salmon skin side down on the salt mix. Top the salmon with the rest of the mix. Wrap the plastic tightly around the salmon, leaving one side slightly open to allow liquid to escape. Place the salmon in a baking dish and top it with a heavy pan or other flat-bottomed object that weighs at least a pound or two.

1½ pounds wild salmon

fillet, skin off, pin bones removed, single piece ½ cup light brown sugar 3 ounces (in volume) kosher salt 2 tablespoons brandy — Zest of 1 lime, very fine — Zest of ½ orange, very fine — Zest of ½ lemon, very fine

Place in the refrigerator overnight. Turn over the plastic wrap with the fish the next morning and put the weight back on it. Do this again every 12 hours or so for a total of 24 to 48 hours, depending how thick the filet is.

Once the salmon is cured and relatively firm, remove it from the plastic wrap, rinse off the salt mix and pat dry. Re-wrap in clean plastic wrap and hold until you are ready to use.

— Bruce Riezenman FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

11

Chorizo Zucchini Tacos with Cheese Curds and Hot Sauce Remove the sausage casing and put the sausage into a heavy saute pan set over medium heat. Use a fork to break up the meat. Saute until it begins to loose its raw look; add the zucchini and continue cooking, turning now and then, for 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and remove from the heat.

While the filling cooks, warm the tortillas by your preferred method until they are very hot, soft and pliable. You could heat the tortillas in a heavy skillet or grill them on the stovetop, without oil.

Working very quickly, set the hot tortillas on individual plates and divide the filling among them. Top each taco with hot sauce, cilantro and cheese and serve immediately.

— Michele Anna Jordan

Makes 3 to 6 servings

1/2

pound chorizo, such as Franco Dunn’s One World Sausage 1 medium Romanesco zucchini, trimmed, cut in half lengthwise and sliced into thin half rounds 6 corn tortillas — Kosher salt — Hot sauce — Handful of cilantro leaves 3 ounces cheese curds, plain, broken into small pieces

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Mexican chorizo is a fresh, spicy sausage that must be cooked. In this straightforward recipe, a light-style Mexican lager would tame the spice.

Tomato Jam Combine all ingredients in a large pot except the tomatoes and rosemary. Bring to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. Carefully add tomatoes and reduce heat to a low simmer. Allow to cook for 15 minutes, gently stirring occasionally. Add rosemary and cook for an additional 10 minutes or until tomatoes start to pop and the sauce begins to thicken. Salt to taste. Store refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Serve with a rustic bread and your favorite cheese.

— Justin Wangler PAIRING SUGGESTION: Try an off-dry white like chenin blanc or riesling with its great acidity. To match the sweetness of this jam, pick a wine with similar sweetness.

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FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

Makes 2 cups

1 6 2 1 1 ¼ 1 2½

cup sugar ounces shallots, minced teaspoons ginger, minced teaspoon garlic, minced teaspoon red pepper flakes cup white wine vinegar lemon, juiced pounds red and yellow cherry tomatoes 3 sprigs rosemary — Kosher salt

BETH SCHLANKER

JOHN BURGESS

Oysters with Jalapeño Salsa Shuck the oysters, leaving meat on the half shell. Place on a bed of salt to prevent the oysters from tipping. Top oysters with a teaspoon or so of the salsa. Slurp!

Makes 12 servings, 4 as a starter

For Jalapeño Salsa: Whisk olive oil, lime juice and agave together. Stir in remaining ingredients, adjusting flavors to your taste. Allow to sit for an hour or so for flavors to develop. Can be made and stored refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Jalapeño Salsa

Jalapeños can vary in their heat. Put in half of what is called for in the recipe and taste after the salsa has rested for at least 1 hour. Add more to your taste.

— John Ash PAIRING SUGGESTION: Sparkling wine or sauvignon blanc are traditional with oysters.

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FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

12 very fresh half-shell oysters — Coarse salt — Jalapeño Salsa (below)

Makes about 1 cup

2

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 teaspoons agave syrup or honey 1 tablespoon stemmed and seeded jalapeño pepper, finely diced or sliced 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1/3 cup finely diced sweet red onion 1/2 cup diced fresh mango 2 teaspoons chopped cilantro leaves — Sea salt, to taste

Ceviche Clásico for Home Cooks Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Makes 4 servings

1

If using the sweet potato, cook it first. Spread a rectangle of cooking parchment on your work surface (if you do not have parchment, use aluminum foil, though it is no longer recommended for direct cooking because of health concerns).

Place the sliced sweet potato off center, season with salt and drizzle with a little olive oil. Fold the parchment over the sweet potato and close the packet by making 1- to 2-inch folds, starting at the top and continuing until the packet is tightly closed. Set on a baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven and cook for about 20 minutes. The sweet potato should be tender but have a bit of resistance; it should not be mushy. Remove from the oven, tear open the packet and set aside to cool.

Cut the fish into very thin slices and set in a wide, shallow bowl.

Season lightly with salt and add the lime juice, red onion and hot pepper. Toss very gently and set aside for 5 minutes.

small white sweet potato, peeled and thinly sliced, optional — Kosher salt or best-quality sea salt — Olive oil 8-10 ounces white fish fillet, such as halibut, rock cod or tilapia ½ cup lime juice, from 3 or 4 limes (see note below) — Pinch or two of ground cayenne, ground chipotle or other hot pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons minced red onion 1-2 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves, torn or chopped — Tortilla chips or plantain chips

Divide among individual plates or bowls, add slices of sweet potato, if using, and enjoy right away, with tortilla chips or plantain chips alongside.

— José Navarro PAIRING SUGGESTION: The bright acidity and bit of heat in this dish would match nicely with an aromatic off-dry riesling, a sparking wine or a crisp brew.

FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

15

ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

16

FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

3 Cheese Mini Macs with Tomato Jam and Crème Fraîche For Mini Macs: In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the macaroni until al dente (about 5 minutes). Remove from heat and drain well.

Brush three 12-cup nonstick mini-muffin tins with butter. Sprinkle with half the Parmesan cheese and tap out the excess. Set aside.

In a large saucepan, melt the 11/2 tablespoons butter. Whisk in the flour over moderate heat and cook for 2 minutes.

Whisk in the milk and continue to cook, whisking constantly, until boiling (about 5 minutes). Add the cheddar and American cheese and whisk until melted. Off the heat, whisk in the egg yolk and paprika.

Fold in the macaroni.

Spoon slightly rounded tablespoons of the macaroni into the prepared muffin cups, packing them gently. Sprinkle the tops with the remaining 1/4 cup of Parmesan cheese.

Bake in a 425-degree oven until golden and sizzling (about 10 minutes).

Let cool for 5 minutes. Using a small offset spatula or spoon, carefully loosen the macs and transfer them to a resting place. Top each with some tomato jam and a drizzle of crème fraîche.

For Tomato Jam: Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

Add the onion and garlic and saute until the onions are translucent (about 5 minutes). Remove and discard the garlic. Add the tomato paste and fry, stirring until the tomato paste just begins to caramelize (about 2 minutes).

Makes 36 servings

For Mini Macs 1/2 pound elbow macaroni 11/2 tablespoons unsalted but1/2 2 3/4 4 4 1 1/4 1/4

ter, softened, plus more for brushing cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided in half tablespoons all-purpose flour cups whole milk ounces cheddar cheese, shredded (1 packed cup) ounces deli-sliced American cheese, chopped large egg yolk teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika cup crème fraîche, for garnish

For Tomato Jam 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 medium onion (cut into 1 1 2 1 1 1/2 1/4

1/4-inch dice) garlic clove (peeled and crushed) tablespoon tomato paste large tomatoes, preferably heirlooms (cored and chopped fairly fine) tablespoon balsamic vinegar small sprig fresh rosemary teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Add the tomatoes, vinegar and rosemary and simmer uncovered for about 20 minutes, stirring frequently to keep the tomatoes from sticking to the bottom of the pan.

The tomatoes should be virtually dry and have a jamlike consistency.

Remove the rosemary sprig and season with salt and pepper.

— Julie Steinfeld PAIRING SUGGESTION: If you’ve used a good cheddar, a fruity red wine such as pinot noir or grenache will pair well, and the tomato jam makes the match even better.

FEAST FAVORITES Appetizers

17

ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

SALADS

Beluga Lentil Salad with Tomatoes, Parsley and Shallots In a medium saucepan, combine the lentils with the stock and salt.

Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover and cook until the lentils are just tender, about 20 minutes. Drain, then transfer to a large bowl.

Makes 4 servings

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegars and Dijon mustard. Gradually whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil until emulsified. Add salt and pepper. Toss the lentils, shallots, tomatoes and parsley with the dressing. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

— Chris Hanna

1

1 2 1 2

1 1/3 ½ ¼ 2 1 ¼

cup black beluga lentils cups chicken stock teaspoon salt tablespoons red wine vinegar tablespoon balsamic vinegar tablespoon Dijon mustard cup extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground pepper small shallots, finely chopped pint Sungold tomatoes, halved cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

FEAST FAVORITES Salads

19

JOHN BURGESS

20

FEAST FAVORITES Salads

Watermelon, Fig and Feta Salad Adjust the four basic flavors in this salad — sweet, salty, sour and pepper — to your taste. Rinse and drain onion, pat dry, separate into individual rings and pour vinaigrette over. Marinate onion for at least 30 minutes, refrigerated.

On chilled plates, arrange a bed of watercress and top with cubed watermelon. Arrange onion and figs around attractively and drizzle vinaigrette over. Place feta on top and garnish with mint sprigs. Serve immediately.

— John Ash

Makes 6 servings

1

small sweet red or white onion, peeled and cut in 1/8-inch thick rounds — Raspberry Vinaigrette (recipe below) 1 bunch young watercress or other peppery greens such as arugula, stems discarded 8 cups chilled seeded watermelon, cut into 2-inch cubes 6 ripe fresh figs, cut into fans 3 ounces or so drained firm feta, cut attractively

Raspberry Vinaigrette In a blender, puree the shallots, vinegar, raspberry puree, orange juice and honey until smooth. Gradually add the oil with the motor running to thicken and emulsify the mixture. Season with salt and pepper and adjust sweet/sour levels, to your taste.

Makes 1 cup

1

tablespoon finely minced shallots or white part of green onions 1/4 cup rice or cider vinegar 1/3 cup raspberry puree, made from either fresh or IQF (Individual Quick Freezing) frozen berries 1/4 cup fresh orange juice 2 teaspoons honey, or to taste 3 tablespoons olive oil — Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

FEAST FAVORITES Salads

21

Toasted Orzo Salad with Corn and Tomatoes Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and fire up your grill. On two baking sheets, cook the orzo and pine nuts in the oven until browned, about 10 minutes.

Set a pot of boiling, salted water on the stove. Pour the toasted orzo into the boiling water and cook until just done, about 8 minutes. Strain and place on baking sheet, sprinkle with extra-virgin olive oil and sherry vinegar and refrigerate.

Grill the corn for a few minutes, rolling to cook on all sides. Cut the kernels from the cob.

In a mixing bowl, combine orzo, pine nuts, corn, parsley, green onion, cherry tomatoes, lemon juice and herbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

— Duskie Estes

Makes 10 servings

1 1 3/4 1/4 4 1

cup pine nuts pound orzo cup extra-virgin olive oil cup sherry vinegar ears corn, husks removed cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, chiffonade 1 cup green onions, sliced thin 2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/4 cup chopped marjoram, basil or oregano — Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tomato & Nectarine Salad In a large bowl, gently toss first five ingredients. Season with Tajin to taste. Transport in glass jars.

— Tracey Shepos Cenami

22

FEAST FAVORITES Salads

Makes 4 servings

2

pounds heirloom tomatoes, large dice 1/2 pound nectarines (about 2), large dice 1/2 pound lemon cucumbers, medium dice 8 mint leaves, torn 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil — Tajin Clásico seasoning

JOHN BURGESS

Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Maple Roasted Bacon Separate bacon and blot dry with paper towels. Coat both sides of bacon liberally with maple syrup. Lay bacon in a single layer on parchment or a silicone baking mat on a sheet pan.

Cook bacon in a preheated 400-degree oven, turning once, until browned and lacquered, about 12 minutes. Cut slices into thirds and set aside.

Prepare eggs for poaching: Bring a 4-quart skillet of water to a boil, add vinegar and reduce heat to medium-low. Crack each egg into its own ramekin and set aside. (Don’t cook the eggs yet.)

In a medium bowl, whisk together shallot, lemon juice, mustard, sugar and olive oil to make vinaigrette. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, toss frisée and cress with vinaigrette, to your taste. Divide greens and bacon between four plates.

Slide the eggs into the water and cook until just firm, about 3 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon to drain the eggs, top the salads with an egg and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Note: Eggs can be poached ahead of time and stored refrigerated in ice water. To serve, place the eggs in barely simmering water for 30 seconds before topping the salad.

— John Ash PAIRING SUGGESTION FOR SALADS: The conventional wisdom is that wine isn’t served with salad. Vinegary, acidic dressings and raw greens don’t usually flatter wine, so why bother?

However, today’s salads have far more variety than those of the past; they include fuller-flavor greens from arugula to radicchio, grilled vegetables, fruits, nuts, meat, fish and cheese. They’re often the main event and they can be perfect partners to a full range of wines, from a crisp sauvignon blanc to earthy reds.

For good salad-wine matches, use these two guidelines. First, make sure there isn’t too much acid or vinegar in the dressing, which can kill the fruit in wine.

For an acid component that’s more complementary to wine, use citrus juice, a mellow vinegar such as balsamic or even wine itself. You also can balance acidity in the dressing by adding a little honey or agave. Second, connect the salad and wine by including ingredients in the salad with flavors that are natural complements to the wine. An aged Parmesan cheese is a nice bridge to a buttery, oaky chardonnay, for example.

24

FEAST FAVORITES Salads

Makes 4 servings

8 ½ 2

strips thick-sliced bacon cup maple syrup tablespoons white wine vinegar 4 large eggs 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste 2 teaspoons grainy Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil — Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 6 gently packed cups of frisée greens, torn into medium-size pieces 1 small bunch upland cress, roots discarded

JOHN BURGESS

CHRISTOPHER CHUNG

SOUPS

Watermelon and Cucumber Gazpacho In a blender, puree 4 cups watermelon, reserving the rest, until smooth. Transfer puree to a large bowl. Add the rest of the watermelon and all remaining ingredients except crème fraîche.

Cover and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours. Divide among serving bowls and top with a dollop of the crème fraîche.

— Claudia Sutton PAIRING SUGGESTION: The bright but not-too-sweet fruit flavors here suggest a beverage with similar qualities, such as an off-dry white or, to be adventurous, a fruity sangria.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 1 1 1 1 3 ½ ¼ 3 2 ¼ ½

seedless watermelon, about 3 pounds, pink flesh diced medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced, about 1 cup red pepper, seeded and diced yellow pepper, seeded and diced jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced (wear gloves) pale green inner celery stalks, diced small red onion, diced cup mint, finely chopped tablespoons fresh lime juice tablespoons red wine vinegar teaspoon salt cup crème fraîche

FEAST FAVORITES Soups

27

Chilled Asparagus Soup with Tarragon Crème Fraîche For soup: Cook the asparagus butts in 1¼ quarts water for 20 to 30 minutes. Allow to cool.

Blanch the three bunches of asparagus (not the tips) in salted water until very tender, then shock in salted ice bath.

Blanch spinach in salted water, then shock in a salted ice bath.

In a blender, add blanched asparagus, 1 cup of cold stock and a pinch of spinach. Blend and continue until all asparagus, spinach and stock are used.

Pass asparagus mixture through a chinois. Stir in the cream and season with salt and pepper. Place in refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

For garnish: Blanch asparagus tips in salted water, then shock in a salted ice bath.

Clean and quarter morels and discard ends. In a medium-size saute pan, cook morels in a little olive oil. Add the shallots, garlic, salt and pepper. Cook for about 2 minutes over medium heat.

Whip crème fraîche until soft peaks form, then mix in the tarragon.

Garnish with fresh herbs such as chives and parsley.

Divide soup into bowls and top with morel mushrooms, asparagus tips and tarragon crème fraîche. Garnish with fresh herbs of your choosing.

Drizzle a little extra-virgin olive oil over the top.

— Perry Hoffman PAIRING SUGGESTION: Asparagus is problematic with wine because it contains mercaptan, which can produce a skunky-smelling compound that is considered a fault in wine. You could choose a crisp, non-oaked white wine or a dry hard cider here.

28

FEAST FAVORITES Soups

Makes 6 to 8 servings

For soup 3 bunches asparagus (reserve butts for stock and tips for garnish) ½ cup spinach 1¼ quarts asparagus stock ½ cup heavy cream — Kosher salt, to taste — White pepper, to taste

For garnish 1 bunch asparagus tips 1 cup morels or other

mushrooms tablespoon garlic, minced tablespoon shallots, minced Kosher salt, to taste White pepper, to taste cup crème fraîche tablespoon fresh tarragon Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste — Fresh garden herbs, as needed for garnish

1 1 — — 1 1 —

CHRISTOPHER CHUNG

Beef Barley Mushroom Soup In a heavy-bottom pan, warm ¼ cup olive oil over medium-high heat.

Season beef with a generous amount of salt and pepper and when the pan is very hot, sear well on all sides until brown and crispy. Set aside.

In the same pan, add ¼ cup olive oil and the mushrooms and saute until golden brown.

Add the other diced vegetables and garlic and let everything cook together until soft and fragrant. Add the chopped rosemary. Add the red wine, making sure to scrape the dark bits from the bottom of the pan.

Once the mixture is reduced by half, add the beef back in, cover with the bone broth and bring to a simmer. Turn heat to low.

Once the beef is tender (about 2 hours later), add the barley and cook for about 45 minutes or until the grains are tender. Adjust seasoning, to taste.

About bone broth: Bone broth can be made in a large batch and frozen for later. Use it to cook with or to drink for replenishment.

You can make the broth in a large stockpot or, better yet, a slow cooker on low. Total cooking time is 9 to 24 hours.

The bones should be a mix of marrow bones and bones with a little meat on them, such as oxtail, short ribs or knuckle bones (cut in half by a butcher).

— Johnny and Julia Gnall PAIRING SUGGESTION: A tip-off for a pairing is that red wine is part of the recipe, so head in that direction. A brown ale or porter would satisfy beer drinkers.

30

FEAST FAVORITES Soups

Makes 5 servings

½ 2

cup olive oil pounds English-cut beef short ribs 4 cups cremini mushrooms, sliced 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 carrots, peeled and diced 3 celery stalks, diced 1 leek, small, diced 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 sprigs fresh rosemary and/ or thyme ½ cup good red wine 2 quarts beef bone broth (see recipe adjacent for homemade) 1 cup barley — Salt and pepper, to taste

CHRISTOPHER CHUNG

Beef Bone Broth Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place beef bones, carrots, leek, onion and garlic on a roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes or until deep brown.

Makes about 2 quarts

4 2 1

Fill a large (at least 6-quart) stockpot with 12 cups of water. Add celery, bay leaves, peppercorns and vinegar. Scrape the roasted bones and vegetables into the pot along with any juices. Add more water if necessary to cover bones and vegetables.

Cover the pot and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce heat to a very low simmer and cook with lid slightly ajar, skimming foam and excess fat occasionally, for at least 8 but up to 24 hours on the stovetop. The longer you simmer it, the better your stock will be.

1 1 2 2 2 1

pounds beef bones unpeeled carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces whole leek, cut into 2-inch pieces medium onion, quartered garlic head, halved crosswise celery stalks, cut into 2-inch pieces bay leaves tablespoons black peppercorns tablespoon cider vinegar

Add more water if necessary to ensure bone and vegetables are fully submerged. (Alternately, you can cook the broth in a slow cooker on low for the same amount of time.)

Remove the pot from the heat and let cool slightly. Strain broth using a fine-mesh sieve and discard bones and vegetables. Allow to cool further until barely warm, then refrigerate in smaller containers overnight. Remove solidified fat from the top of the chilled broth before using.

FEAST FAVORITES Soups

31

Chili Colorado Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Sprinkle short ribs with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper.

In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring the California, guajillo and chipotle chiles and 1½ cups of water to a simmer. Cover and reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the chiles are just tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a blender and process until smooth.

Heat a large, heavy-bottom pot over medium-high heat, add ¼ cup olive oil, then sear the short ribs on all sides and remove from pot.

Add the garlic, onion and bell peppers to the drippings in the pot and saute until onions are translucent. Deglaze pot with California red wine, letting the wine evaporate as you scrape up the brown bits at the bottom. Mix in the cumin and oregano. Add the chile puree from the blender and the broth. Stir to blend, return the short ribs to the pot and pour in any juice from the bowl as well. Stir to coat, bring to a simmer, then cover and place the pot in the oven and braise until ribs are tender, about 2½ to 3 hours.

Spoon off any fat that rises to the surface. Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and cut the meat into small cubes. Add meat to the chili.

Bring to a simmer and add salt and pepper to taste and cayenne for spice.

— Chad Holmes PAIRING SUGGESTION: Chile spice, like in this recipe, has capsaicin, which can make wines high in alcohol unpleasantly hot. Choose a light-bodied red like gamay or rosé, or a rich porter.

32

FEAST FAVORITES Soups

Makes 5 servings

3

pounds boneless beef short ribs 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 2-ounce package dried California chiles, stemmed, seeded and cut or torn into pieces 1 2-ounce package dried guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and cut into pieces — Two dried chipotle peppers, stemmed and seeded ¼ cup olive oil 6 large cloves garlic, chopped 1 large yellow onion, chopped 1 green bell pepper, chopped 1 red bell pepper, chopped 1 cup California red wine 1 tablespoon freshly ground cumin 1 tablespoon dried Mexican oregano 1 cup beef broth (make with femur bones for a rich, deep flavor) — Salt and pepper, to taste — Cayenne, to taste

JOHN BURGESS

Shrimp and Noodle Soup with Laksa For Laksa Paste: Add all ingredients except coconut milk to a blender and process for a minute or 2 or until very smooth. Add mixture to a small saucepan and cook over moderate heat for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring constantly. It should be very fragrant. Stir in coconut milk and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Store covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months.

For soup: Heat the stock to boiling, add the reserved shrimp shells and simmer for 5 minutes, covered. Strain, discard shells and set stock aside. Halve the shrimp lengthwise. Stir soy sauce and rice wine together and toss with shrimp to lightly coat. Set aside to marinate for a few minutes.

Heat the stock and coconut milk in a deep saucepan and whisk in the Laksa Paste. Add oil to a wok or large skillet and heat over high heat.

Add shrimp and stir-fry, in batches if necessary, until barely cooked through, about 2 minutes. Remove and set aside.

Add zucchini and noodles to warm bowls. Top with shrimp. Taste stock mixture and adjust with lime juice, salt and pepper, to taste.

Ladle hot stock over noodles and serve immediately, garnished with cilantro leaves and green onions.

Note: Chile garlic sauce is available in Asian markets and the Asian food section of some grocery stores.

— John Ash PAIRING SUGGESTION: This richly flavored dish could pair well with a rich, full-bodied white wine or a fragrant beer. Light-color beers such as IPAs and hefeweizens work well with coconut, especially when complemented with citrus or melon flavors.

Makes about 1 cup or more

For Laksa Paste 2 tablespoons chile garlic

sauce, or to taste (see Note) cup onion, chopped cup macadamia nuts, chopped and toasted, or blanched almonds ¼ cup ginger, peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons coriander seeds, crushed 1 teaspoon shrimp paste or 2 tablespoons fish sauce, or to taste — Juice and zest from 2 limes 2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil ½ cup or so coconut milk

1/3 1/3

Makes 4 to 6 servings

For soup 3 cups low-salt, defatted

chicken stock pound large (16-20 size) shrimp, peeled and deveined, shells reserved 1 tablespoon soy sauce 3 tablespoons rice wine or sake 3½ cups coconut milk, stirred well 1 cup Laksa Paste, or to taste 2 tablespoons peanut or other vegetable oil 1 small zucchini, cut into long julienne 4 ounces thin rice vermicelli noodles, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes — Fresh lime juice, to taste — Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1

For garnish — —

34

FEAST FAVORITES Soups

Cilantro leaves Green onions sliced on the bias

JOHN BURGESS

Sopa de Lima (Mexican Chicken Soup with Lime) Line a plate with paper towel. Add an inch of oil to a deep saucepan and over moderately high heat, fry the tortilla strips until crisp and golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using a spider or slotted spoon, transfer the tortilla strips to the towel-lined plate and let them cool.

Nestle the chicken in a large stock pot and pour enough water into the pot to cover the chicken by 2 inches. Bring the water to a gentle boil over medium-high heat, then immediately reduce the heat to mediumlow, partially cover and very gently simmer until the chicken is cooked through and the meat shreds easily with a fork, about 1½ hours.

Remove the chicken from the pot and place on a plate to rest until it’s cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skin. Pull the meat from the bone, shred it with a fork and set aside.

Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids, and set aside. Wipe out the pot and add 2 tablespoons of oil.

Over moderate heat, saute the onions, garlic, poblano, cumin, oregano, fennel seed and chile until vegetables are softened, about 6 minutes.

Add 6 cups or so of the stock, tomatillos and reserved chicken and simmer for 10 minutes more. Taste for seasoning and add salt, pepper, more chile powder and lime juice (at least 3 tablespoons), as needed.

Add a scoop of rice, if using, to warm bowls and ladle soup over. Pass garnishes, including fried tortilla strips, separately and allow each guest to add to their bowl as desired.

— John Ash PAIRING SUGGESTION: The bright lime of this dish calls for a similar flavor profile in wine — which screams sauvignon blanc. A Mexican beer with a lime wedge is also a natural fit.

36

FEAST FAVORITES Soups

Makes 8 servings

— Coconut or other vegetable

oil, for frying 6-inch yellow or white corn tortillas, cut into thin strips 1 whole chicken (about 3 pounds) 2 medium white onions, peeled, halved and sliced lengthwise 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 large poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded and diced 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons oregano, preferably Mexican 1 teaspoon fennel seed 2 teaspoons pure chile powder, such as ancho, or ½ teaspoon chile flakes 3 cups or so quartered tomatillos 2 cups cooked long-grain white rice, optional — Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 5 large limes, 4 juiced and 1 cut into wedges, for garnish — Additional garnishes: sliced jalapeños, cilantro sprigs, avocado slices, crumbled cotija cheese, reserved tortilla strips

3

JOHN BURGESS

Winter Kabocha Squash Soup This recipe calls for kabocha squash, but you can use any sweet variety in the market, such as butternut, sugar pie or Hubbard.

In a deep saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. Add the onions and garlic and saute until soft but not brown. Add the curry and saute for a minute or 2 or until fragrant. Add the stock and squash and transfer to a blender. Puree, in batches if necessary. Strain through a medium mesh strainer, if desired.

Return mixture to the saucepan and add the nutmeg, honey and coconut milk. Whisk to combine and bring to a simmer. Stir in sherry and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper.

To serve, ladle soup into warm soup bowls and top with chives and fragrant oil.

Note: To roast the squash, cut a 2-pound squash in half, scoop out seeds, season with salt and pepper and roast cut side up in a preheated 375-degree oven for 30 minutes or until flesh is soft.

Scoop flesh out of shell and discard shell.

— John Ash

Makes 8 servings

3

tablespoons unsalted butter 3 cups yellow onion, chopped 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped 2 tablespoons high-quality curry powder, such as Madras 5 cups rich chicken or vegetable stock 3 cups roasted kabocha squash (see Note) ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 tablespoon honey, or to taste 2 cups well-stirred coconut milk 2 tablespoons dry sherry, optional — Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste — Chopped chives and a fruity olive or toasted nut oil, for garnish

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Squash gives this rich soup some sweetness. Choose a wine with just a touch of sweetness and good acidity, such as a riesling.

FEAST FAVORITES Soups

37

JOHN BURGESS

PASTA

Pasta with White Clam Sauce Bring a large pot of water to boil for pasta. Cook according to directions.

In a large, straight-sided skillet, heat 4 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add sliced garlic and cook until sizzling, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add anchovies and stir until the anchovies break up and dissolve into the oil, about 2 minutes.

Add the clams to the skillet, along with chile flakes and oregano. Ladle in about 2 cups of water. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook until clams open, about 5 to 7 minutes. As the clams open, remove to a bowl.

When all the clams are out, increase heat to high and add ½ cup of the parsley. Cook until liquid is reduced by half. Meanwhile, shuck the clams. Leave a few unshucked for garnish, as you like.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1

pound long spaghetti, such as linguine 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4-6 anchovies 36 littleneck clams, scrubbed ¼ teaspoon red chile flakes, or to your taste ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¾ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

Add the pasta directly to the sauce. Cook and toss until the pasta is coated with the sauce. Add shucked clams and remaining ¼ cup chopped parsley, cook a minute more to blend the flavors and serve.

— John Ash

FEAST FAVORITES Pasta

39

Pasta with Pea Shoot Pesto, Prosciutto and Mushrooms Get a large pot of water boiling; salt the water to just less than sea water saltiness.

Meanwhile, in a large saute pan, add the olive oil, shallots and mushrooms and saute over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add white wine before shallots begin to brown. After the white wine has reduced down to almost dry, add the 1 cup of water and the prosciutto and reduce again to almost dry. Then add peas and set pan aside, off the heat.

Boil the pasta according to the package directions. About 1 to 2 minutes before the pasta is ready, place the pan back on the stove, add a few tablespoons of the pasta water and bring to a boil. Turn off flame and add the Pea Shoot Pesto. Mix vigorously with a wooden spoon to incorporate the pesto with the water and veggies.

Drain the cooked pasta. Add the pasta into the pan with the pesto, toss with sauce and half the Parmesan. Place in a large bowl and garnish with the remainder of the Parmesan and top with pea sprouts. Serve immediately.

— Ari Rosen

40

FEAST FAVORITES Pasta

Makes 4 servings

1

pound tagliolini or linguine 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons shallots, diced 1 cup morel mushrooms (or mushrooms of your choice) 1/4 cup white wine 1 cup water 4 slices prosciutto, finely diced 1/2 cup English peas, shucked and blanched (if they are small and tender, put in raw) 1/2 cup Pea Shoot Pesto (recipe adjacent) 1/2-3/4cup Parmesan cheese 1 cup pea sprouts, for garnish

BETH SCHLANKER

Pea Shoot Pesto Put pea shoots, garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan and a small amount of the olive oil into a food processor or Vitamix. Pulse until coarsely ground, then add remaining olive oil and lemon juice while running, then salt, to taste. You want a coarsely ground product, so do not puree for too long.

Makes 11/2 cups

3 2 3/4

cups pea shoots cloves peeled garlic cup lightly toasted pine nuts 1/4 cup grated Parmesan 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice — Pinch of salt, to taste

FEAST FAVORITES Pasta

41

JOHN BURGESS

Ricotta Gnudi For gnudi: Put a large pot of water over high heat. Season it with salt until it tastes like the sea. In a medium mixing bowl, place ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, one whole egg, one egg yolk, zest of one lemon chopped fine, pinch of nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt and the chives. Mix well. Add the flour, little by little. You might not need the entire ½ cup.

Do not overmix once the flour is in. Place about a cup of semolina in a second mixing bowl. Using a cookie scooper, scoop the gnudi dough into the semolina. Roll each scoop with your hands to form balls. Once all the gnudi is formed, drop them into the boiling water. They should take about 4 minutes to cook.

For sauce: In a large saute pan, place 2 ounces butter, squash and sage over medium-high heat. Cook until butter turns a brownish color and smells nutty. Remove sage from pan.

To finish: When the pasta is cooked, add it to the pan with ¼ cup of the pasta water. Season with salt (if needed) and juice of one lemon.

Toss the arugula through at the very end. Plate it and garnish with Parmigiano-Reggiano and fresh crushed pepper.

— Shane McAnelly

Makes 2 to 4 servings

For gnudi 1 16-ounce container of ½ 2 1 1 1 1 ½

1

ricotta cup Parmigiano-Reggiano plus a little more for garnish eggs (1 whole and 1 separated) lemon, zested and juiced pinch nutmeg (freshly grated if you have whole) teaspoon salt bunch chives, chopped fine cup flour (may take a little more depending on the moisture level of the ricotta) cup semolina flour, for dusting

For sauce 2 ounces butter ½ cup butternut squash,

diced and roasted sprig sage lemon, juiced — Kosher salt, to taste 1 cup arugula — Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

1 1

FEAST FAVORITES Pasta

43

BLT Pasta

Cook the pasta according to the directions on the package, and save a small amount of pasta water.

Start the olive oil and garlic in a cold pan, then cook just until the garlic blooms and you can smell it, barely a minute.

Add tomatoes and pancetta and cook for 1 minute. Add the hot pasta into the pan and mix. Add 2 tablespoons of the pasta water (or water or wine) and a pinch of salt. Throw in the spinach and cook for 30 seconds, until wilted. Add in half the cheese and stir. Serve into bowls, top with the rest of the cheese and finish with olive oil.

— Josh Silvers

CHRISTOPHER CHUNG

44

FEAST FAVORITES Pasta

Makes 2 servings

6 ½ 1 2/3

ounces dried bow-tie pasta tablespoon olive oil clove garlic, minced cup cherry tomatoes, sliced in half 3 ounces pancetta, cut into lardons, cooked and drained — Pinch of salt 2 cups baby spinach 1 ounce Parmesan, grated — Extra-virgin olive oil, to finish

BETH SCHLANKER

Spaghetti Marco Polo Mix the first eight ingredients together with a little olive oil in a bowl, and set aside. Season well with salt and pepper. Spoon walnut mixture over cooked spaghetti, and toss. Top with cheese, and serve.

— John Ash PAIRING SUGGESTION FOR PASTAS: Italian pastas, which include all those in this chapter, often are linked to red wines. These dishes use tomatoes, mushrooms and cured meats like pancetta, and red wines offer enough acidity to balance with those rich flavors. Chianti (mostly sangiovese), with its floral scent and deep savory flavor, is a great match to all these ingredients. The Gnudi and White Clam Sauce recipes are an exception. For these, choose one of the little-known but delicious Italian white grape varieties like Fiano, pecorino, verdicchio or Garganega. This is a chance to expand your Italian wine horizons. Pinot grigio (pinot gris) also would be a good choice and is deliciously produced in California and Oregon.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1¼ cups chopped walnuts 2/3 cup chopped, black olives

such as Cerignola cup chopped, roasted and peeled red pepper 1/3 cup chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped chives ¼ cup golden raisins 2 tablespoons capers 2/3 cup small cherry tomatoes, whole or cut as you please — Olive oil — Salt and pepper, to taste 1 pound of spaghetti, cooked 1 cup freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese

2/3

FEAST FAVORITES Pasta

45

MEAT ENTREES

Roasted Pork Tenderloin Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a roasting pan, place onion and garlic in bottom and set aside. In a large dish, beat egg and set aside.

Mix bread crumbs with dried herbs, parsley, Parmigiano-Reggiano, black pepper and salt in a small bowl. Pour onto a dinner-size plate and shake to make an even layer. Dip tenderloins, one at a time, into egg and then roll in bread crumbs so they are evenly coated. Place tenderloins on top of onions and pour olive oil over all.

Place in 425-degree oven. After 15 minutes, baste the tenderloins with olive oil from bottom of pan. Lower oven heat to 375 degrees.

Roast for another 10 minutes and remove from oven. Tent aluminum foil over pan, and let sit for 5 minutes. Slice into rounds and serve with rice pilaf, a crisp salad or roasted potatoes and sweet potatoes.

— Phyllis Pedroncelli PAIRING SUGGESTION: Serve this recipe from a famous and long-admired winery with a balanced merlot or red blend.

46

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1

large onion, sliced into rings 4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 1 large egg 1 cup bread crumbs or panko 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 2 tablespoons fresh grated Parmigiano-Reggiano — Fresh ground pepper and kosher salt, to taste 11/2 pounds pork tenderloins, cleaned of silver skin 1/4 cup olive oil

JOHN BURGESS

CHRISTOPHER CHUNG

Schweinshaxe (Pork Shank) Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Makes 4 servings

Wash the pork shank and pat dry. Sprinkle the shank with a good amount of salt and pepper, and let sit for half an hour.

In a large saute pan, sear the pork shank until it becomes caramelized on all sides, then remove it from the pan. After discarding most of the fat, add the onion and garlic to the same pan and saute until they turn translucent. Transfer the shank, onion and garlic to a roasting pan and add the wine and beef stock to cover half of the shank. Cover the roasting pan with wax paper, then aluminum foil. Place in the oven and cook the shanks at 300 degrees for about 4 hours. The internal temperature should be 160 to 170 degrees.

4 — — 1 6 1 1

pork hind shanks Kosher salt, to taste Pepper, to taste large onion, chopped cloves of garlic, sliced into large pieces cup white wine quart organic, low-sodium beef stock

Remove the shanks from the pan, strain the stock, remove the excess fat and cook on the stove until the stock is reduced by half. Place the shanks in a roasting pan standing up, pour the reduced stock over and cook for 30 to 45 minutes at 300 degrees, until the skin gets crispy. Add more salt when eating the pork.

Serve with roasted potatoes and sauerkraut.

— Shari Sarabi

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Because white wine is used in this recipe, a rich full-bodied white like chardonnay or pinot blanc should work well.

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

49

Peppercorn-Crusted Steak with Wild Mushroom Fondue Prepping the steak: Start with the highest-quality steak you can find, such as 21-day dry-aged wagyu beef, or ask your butcher for the best.

Season the steak with kosher salt and crushed black pepper; allow to rest at room temperature.

For mushroom fondue: Clean all the mushrooms using a brush and remove any form of dirt. Finish by lightly rinsing in warm water. Cut the mushrooms into medium-size chunks, discarding the gills. In a large pan, sear the mushrooms until golden brown, add 2 ounces butter and the red wine and cook until they become creamy. Adjust the seasoning and reserve hot.

For potatoes, bone marrow and mini bell peppers: Cut the potatoes in half, toss the mini bell peppers with olive oil and sea salt. Roast together in a 400-degree oven until the potatoes are half cooked, about 6 minutes. Add the seasoned bone marrow to the oven and finish roasting the potatoes and veggies, about 4 to 6 minutes more.

The bone marrow is finished when it’s golden brown and the marrow is hot throughout.

For cooking the steak: Crust the steaks with peppercorns and in a large cast-iron or thick-bottom pan, sear the steak over high heat.

Leave in the pan long enough for the steak to take on a dark color and thick crust, add 3 ounces of butter and cook to the desired temperature. Remove and allow to rest for 5 minutes.

For plating: Place the wild mushroom fondue near the center of the plate and the potato and pepper hash to the side. Put the steak on the fondue and then the bone marrow on the side, with the arugula underneath. Finish with fleur de sel or sea salt.

— Dustin Valette PAIRING SUGGESTION: One reliable trick to match food and wine is to drink whatever you are cooking with. A cabernet with balanced tannins looks like a winner here.

50

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

Makes 4 servings

4 — — 2 2 6 1/2 1/2 — — 4 1 —

12-ounce Prime New York steaks (dry-aged wagyu is the best) Kosher salt Fresh black peppercorns, crushed pounds wild or king trumpet mushrooms ounces butter ounces cabernet sauvignon pound baby or marble potatoes (preferably dry farmed) pound mini bell peppers Olive oil Sea salt 8-inch long marrow bones (ask butcher to cut lengthwise) cup baby wild arugula Unsalted butter

CHRISTOPHER CHUNG

Master Burger Recipe Gently break the meat into large pieces; add seasonings and toss to incorporate salt, pepper and Worcestershire. Being careful not to overhandle and using wet hands, divide the meat into four equal portions and form patties about 1 inch thick at the edges and a little less in the center. Chill for at least 20 minutes before grilling. Grill over a hot fire, turning once. For rare, cook approximately 2 minutes per side, 3 minutes for medium rare and 4 minutes for medium.

Hopefully, no one will ever want a good burger cooked well done!

Makes 4 servings

1½ pounds freshly ground 1 ½ 2

sirloin or chuck with 15-20% fat teaspoon kosher or sea salt teaspoon freshly ground pepper teaspoons Worcestershire

Serve on a bun with the traditional garnishes. If you don’t want to put the burger on a bun and would rather serve it alone, topping it with the red wine pan sauce below is a delicious alternative.

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Red meat with a red wine sauce — no mystery here. Pull out any red wine you like. Try a smooth zinfandel.

Red Wine Pan Sauce for Burgers Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a saute pan over moderate heat and saute the shallots until softened but not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the broth, wine, vinegar and mustard and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring regularly. Continue to cook until reduced by 60% or so and lightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, whisk in remaining butter and season to your taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

— John Ash

52

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

Makes about ½ cup or 4 servings

4 ¼

tablespoons butter cup finely chopped shallots or green onions 1 cup beef broth or chicken stock ¾ cup red wine 1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, preferably grainy type — Salt and freshly ground pepper

JOHN BURGESS

JOHN BURGESS

Moroccan-Style Lamb Chops, Mint Chutney & Lemon Couscous For marinating the meat: Place all mint chutney ingredients in a blender with the olive oil and puree until smooth. Toss the lamb chops with just enough chutney to coat and marinate for 4 hours or overnight. Save the remainder of the mint chutney to use later.

For Moroccan BBQ sauce: Place all ingredients in a sauce pot and simmer on medium heat until the sauce is reduced to the consistency of a light glaze. Strain and cool.

For couscous salad: Place dry couscous in a bowl and add the olive oil.

Mix the couscous until it is coated with the oil.

Bring the orange juice and the water to a boil. Season the liquid with salt and pepper. Pour the hot liquid over the couscous, add the raisins and preserved lemon, then stir once. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit until couscous has absorbed all the liquid.

Remove plastic and fluff the couscous. Check seasoning and adjust if necessary.

To finish the dish: Season lamb chops with salt and pepper. Grill to desired doneness over medium-hot grill or sear in a hot cast-iron pan on both sides and finish in a 350-degree oven.

While chops are cooking, toss toasted almonds and sliced green onions into the couscous. Add a little fresh orange juice and more extra-virgin olive oil if salad seems dry. Place couscous salad in the center of a serving platter.

Arrange the chops around couscous and drizzle with Moroccan BBQ sauce and remaining mint chutney. Any leftover BBQ sauce will keep in the refrigerator for 1 month.

— Mark Stark PAIRING SUGGESTION: With the abundant flavor interaction in this recipe, a soft, fruit-forward red wine would be the ticket, such as grenache or any dry rosé.

Makes 8 servings (with extra BBQ sauce)

8

double-cut lamb chops

For mint chutney 1 cup mint leaves 6 green onions, chopped 3 tablespoons parsley leaves, 1 ¼ ½ 1 1 ½

chopped teaspoon salt teaspoon cayenne pepper teaspoon curry powder tablespoon lemon juice garlic clove, chopped cup olive oil

For Moroccan BBQ sauce 1¼ cups honey ½ cup rice wine vinegar ½ cup ketchup ½ cup soy sauce 3/4 cup lemon juice 1 cinnamon stick, broken up 2 star anise 2 garlic cloves, smashed 1½ teaspoons cardamom seeds 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes 1½ teaspoons black peppercorns

1½ teaspoons dried lavender ½ teaspoon fresh ginger, ½ ½ ½

chopped teaspoon whole cloves bunch cilantro teaspoon salt

For couscous salad 2 cups couscous 2 tablespoons extra-virgin 1 1 ½ ½ ¼ 1

olive oil cup orange juice cup water cup golden raisins preserved lemon, cleaned and minced cup toasted slivered almonds bunch green onions, sliced

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

55

Dry-Rubbed Turkey Breast In a small bowl, combine the kosher salt with the sage, black pepper and sugar. Set the turkey in a large roasting pan and rub it with the spice mixture inside and out; refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours. Return the turkey to room temperature before roasting.

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Brush the turkey all over with the melted butter and roast for about 30 minutes, or until the skin is golden brown.

Makes 6 servings

¼ 6 2

cup kosher salt leaves fresh sage, chopped tablespoons coarsely cracked black pepper 1 tablespoon sugar 1 3-pound turkey breast 1-2 tablespoons butter, melted

Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees and roast the turkey for about 1 hour, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast registers 160 degrees. Turkey will rest out to 165 degrees. Transfer the turkey to a carving board, cover loosely with foil and let rest for at least 30 minutes. Reserve all drippings for the gravy.

Turkey Gravy For roux: Melt butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Whisk in flour. Reduce heat to low; whisk until roux is golden brown, about 2 minutes.

Makes 6 cups

For drippings and assembly: Bring 6 cups of good turkey stock to a boil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add turkey drippings.

If you’re short on drippings, skim fat from pan and add 1 to 2 cups chicken stock. Scrape up browned bits with a wooden spoon; strain liquid into stock. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk in roux.

Reduce heat to low; simmer gently for 5 minutes to thicken gravy.

Season, if desired.

— Perry Hoffman

For gravy 6 cups turkey stock — Turkey drippings 1-2 cups chicken stock — Salt and pepper

PAIRING SUGGESTION: The challenge at Thanksgiving, when many of us attempt this classic roast turkey, is the wide range of accompanying foods, from salty to savory to sweet. So serve two wines: a fruity light-bodied red like grenache or gamay and an aromatic white like riesling or Viognier. That should take care of everybody!

56

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

For roux 1/3 cup unsalted butter 1/3 cup all-purpose flour

BETH SCHLANKER

Beef Kebabs with Marinade To prepare the beef, trim the fat and cut into 2-inch pieces. Follow these steps in order and allow 5 to 7 minutes between each step. First, salt and pepper the beef. Next, add the onion, liquid saffron and sumac and mix well. Finally, add the olive oil and cover.

Marinate for at least a few hours or up to overnight.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

2

½ ¼ ½ ¼ 1 ½

pounds of beef tenderloin tablespoon kosher or sea salt tablespoon pepper onion, pureed cup liquid saffron (see adjacent recipe) tablespoon sumac cup extra-virgin olive oil

Lamb Kebabs with Marinade Cut the loin into 2-inch pieces and place in a large bowl. Follow these steps in order and allow about 5 to 7 minutes between each step.

First, salt and pepper the lamb. Next, add the onion, lime juice, parsley and crushed garlic and mix well. Lastly, add the olive oil and cover.

Marinate for at least a few hours or up to overnight.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

2 ½ ¼ ½ 2 ½ 4 ½

pounds boneless lamb loin tablespoon kosher or sea salt tablespoon freshly ground pepper onion, pureed limes, juiced cup Italian parsley, chopped cloves garlic, crushed cup extra-virgin olive oil

Chicken Kebabs with Marinade Cut the breasts and thighs into 2-inch pieces and place in a large bowl.

Follow these steps in order and allow each layer of the marinade to sit for a few minutes before moving to the next step. First, salt and pepper the chicken. Next, add the lemon juice, followed by the liquid saffron.

Add the onion. Finally, add the olive oil. Marinate for a few hours or up to overnight.

— Shari Sarabi

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Generally, grilled foods pair well with wines that have some oak aging. But you also could choose, and might prefer, a fruity hard cider or beer, especially a pale ale.

58

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

Makes 4 to 6 servings

2 ½ ¼ 1 ¼ ½ ½

pounds boneless chicken thighs and breasts tablespoon kosher salt tablespoon pepper lemon, juiced cup liquid saffron (see adjacent recipe) onion, pureed cup extra-virgin olive oil

JOHN BURGESS

Liquid Saffron Put the saffron in a mortar and pestle with the sugar, and grind to a very fine powder. Put the mixture in a squeeze bottle, and add the hot water. Mix well for a few minutes until very aromatic, then add the cold water. Add a small amount of the liquid saffron to your favorite dishes, which will add to the aroma of the food. Store in the refrigerator for future use.

Makes 11/2 cups

2 ½ 2 1

grams good-quality Spanish saffron teaspoon granulated sugar tablespoons hot water cup cold water

Grilling the meats Use the same technique for each type of marinated meat. First, divide up the meat pieces and skewer them evenly onto heavyduty, stainless steel kebab rods.

aluminum foil. Turn the kebabs every couple of minutes during cooking. Approximate cooking times are 10 to 12 minutes for the chicken and 8 to 10 minutes for the beef and the lamb.

Grill the kebabs on a barbecue, but don’t place the skewers directly on the grate.

Instead, suspend them so the meat is 2 inches above the grate to allow even cooking without burning or charring. To do this, rest the skewers on angle irons or bricks covered in

However, the time will depend on the heat of the grill and your preferred temperature for the meat. It’s recommended to serve the beef and lamb between rare and mediumrare. Allow the kebabs to rest for 10 minutes before serving

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

59

ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

Kofta with Yogurt Tahini Sauce & Chermoula For kofta: Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl and shape kofta into logs, 4 inches long and 2 inches in diameter.

Grill over medium-high heat on a gas grill until medium-rare, about 5 minutes each side.

For yogurt tahini sauce: Whisk the tahini, garlic, salt and lemon until smooth. Add the yogurt and mint and whisk. Serve on the side.

For chermoula: Whisk all ingredients together. Moisten with more olive oil and lemon juice if needed, and adjust salt. Serve on top of kofta.

— Chris Hanna PAIRING SUGGESTION: The two sauces in this classic Middle Eastern dish feature tart, herbal flavors. Sauvignon blancs from California or New Zealand have similar flavors and would bridge nicely.

For the kofta Makes 4 servings

1 1/3 2

pound ground lamb cup chopped parsley large cloves garlic, peeled and minced 3 shallots, peeled and minced 1 tablespoon ground allspice 1 tablespoon ground coriander 2 tablespoons ground cumin 1 tablespoon kosher salt — Freshly ground pepper Makes 4 to 6 servings

For yogurt tahini sauce ¼ cup tahini 1 large clove garlic, peeled ½ — 1 1

and minced teaspoon salt Juice of half a lemon cup plain yogurt tablespoon chopped fresh mint

Makes 4 to 6 servings

For chermoula 2 cups chopped cilantro 1½ cups chopped parsley 3-4 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon cayenne ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, ¼

plus more to taste cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

61

Chicken Piccata Butterfly the chicken breasts and cut them in half horizontally.

Working with one breast half at a time, place the chicken between two pieces of plastic wrap and, using a meat pounder or another heavy and flat object like a skillet, gently pound to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch.

Season the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow bowl and dredge the chicken in it. Shake off the excess.

In the nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Place two pieces of chicken in the pan and cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Transfer to a platter or individual plates. Warm the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the pan and repeat with the remaining chicken.

Reduce the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon butter in the pan.

Add the shallot and cook until softened and lightly brown, about 1 minute. Add the wine, lemon juice and broth; increase the heat to medium-high and cook until the liquid is slightly reduced, about 5 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, the capers and parsley. Season to your taste with salt and pepper and additional drops of lemon juice, if desired. Splash the sauce over the chicken and serve immediately, topped with a sprinkling of chives.

— John Ash PAIRING SUGGESTION: The Italian term piccata is related to the word piquant, but here it takes on a meaning closer to “zesty,” referring to the lemon juice that’s a key part of this dish. Try a wine with similar crisp flavors like sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio or an unoaked chardonnay.

62

FEAST FAVORITES Meat Entrees

Makes 4 servings

2

boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, 10-12 ounces each — Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot 1/4 cup dry white wine 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste 1/3 cup chicken broth 2 tablespoons drained capers 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

JOHN BURGESS

JOHN BURGESS

FISH & SEAFOOD

Cioppino Heat the olive oil in a deep soup pot over moderate heat and add onions, garlic, carrots and celery. Saute until vegetables are lightly browned.

Add the tomatoes, wine, stock, bay leaves, basil, oregano, fennel seed and chile flakes. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook, partially covered, for 25 minutes. Strain if desired, discarding solids, and return broth to pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add crab and mussels to the broth and cook over moderate heat until mussels open. Add fish and shrimp and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes or until fish is just cooked through.

Place a piece of toasted sourdough in the bottom of warm bowls and ladle soup on top. Sprinkle chopped parsley over everything and serve immediately.

— John Ash

PAIRING SUGGESTION: This version of Cioppino, a rich flavorful fish stew with Italian roots, uses red wine so that would make a good pairing. Choose a smooth, medium-bodied wine like sangiovese or syrah.

Makes 8 servings

1/4 3 3 1 2/3

cup olive oil cups onion, chopped tablespoons garlic, chopped cup carrot, chopped cup celery or fennel, chopped 1 28-ounce can whole peeled or diced tomatoes (preferably San Marzano) 21/2 cups red wine 5 cups fish or chicken stock 3 large bay leaves 1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped, or 2 teaspoons dried 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried 2 teaspoons fennel seed 1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes, or to taste — Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 whole Dungeness crab (2-3 pounds), cleaned and chopped into sections 11/2 pounds fresh mussels (18-24) 1 pound rockfish or Pacific cod, filets cut into 2-inch cubes 16 medium deveined shrimp 8 thick slices of sourdough brushed with garlic olive oil and toasted 1/4 cup parsley, chopped

FEAST FAVORITES Fish & Seafood

65

Seafood Cau-Cau Saute the onion in a pan with vegetable oil until tender. Add garlic and aji amarillo paste and cook for 1 minute. Add cumin and turmeric and mix all together.

Add 1 cup of stock and the cubed potatoes. Let cook until potatoes are almost done. Add the octopus, shrimp, calamari and scallops along with remaining stock. Cook for 1 minute over low heat and taste.

Incorporate the minced mint leaves and mix all together. Turn off the stove and add the lime juice. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Serve with Peruvian White Rice (recipe below).

Note: You can buy premade paste or make it yourself. To make your own, blend six aji amarillo peppers with two cloves garlic, 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 cup corn oil. Put in a jar, and refrigerate.

Makes 4 servings

4 1 4

tablespoons vegetable oil red onion, small dice cloves garlic, finely chopped 5 tablespoons yellow aji amarillo paste (see note at left) ½ teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon turmeric 2 cups fish stock 4 white or red potatoes, cut into ½-inch cubes ¼ cup cooked octopus, chopped 16 shrimp (prawns), peeled and cleaned ½ cup calamari, cleaned and chopped 15 small scallops, cleaned 6 sprigs mint, finely minced 2 teaspoons key lime juice — Salt and pepper

Peruvian White Rice In a large saucepan, heat oil and add rice and salt. Stir the rice until you start seeing the color change (to deep white); add the garlic and saute for about 1 minute.

Add the water and stir. As soon as it starts boiling, cover with the lid and cook on minimum temperature for 20 minutes. Do not open lid.

After 20 minutes (don’t open the lid yet!), turn off the stove and let rest for about 10 to 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork and enjoy.

— Olenka Orjeda PAIRING SUGGESTION: This Peruvian dish can be spicy, so choose an off-dry white wine with some residual sugar, which tones down the heat. Riesling, the most versatile of wine varieties, would be great here as would drier-style muscat.

66

FEAST FAVORITES Fish & Seafood

Makes 4 servings

¼ 2

cup corn oil cups long-grain basmati rice — Salt 3 tablespoons garlic paste 1½ cups water

ERIK CASTRO

JOHN BURGESS

Salmon Burger In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients for the salmon mixture. It should just hold together and not be too dense and heavy.

Add more breadcrumbs or mayonnaise, if needed. Divide the mixture and form into four cakes no thicker than 1 inch. (The salmon cakes may be prepared in advance to this point. Store uncovered in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours.)

Dredge the salmon cakes in remaining panko breadcrumbs that you’ve seasoned with salt and pepper. In a large saute pan over moderate heat, add oil to just cover the bottom. Saute the cakes until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Serve immediately, with a dollop of the Green Goddess Dressing.

Makes 4 servings

8 8 4 2 ¼ 2 1½ 1 1 — ½ — —

ounces fresh salmon, cut into ¼-inch dice ounces fresh salmon, very finely chopped ounces fresh uncooked shrimp, cut into ¼-inch dice egg whites, beaten cup red bell pepper, finely diced, blanched quickly and drained tablespoons green onions, finely chopped tablespoons lemon zest, finely grated with a microplane teaspoon jalapeño chile, seeded and minced, or to taste tablespoon or so mayonnaise Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup or so panko or other coarse dry breadcrumbs, plus more for dredging Olive oil for sauteing Green Goddess Dressing (see recipe below)

Green Goddess Dressing Combine all ingredients except salt, pepper and lemon juice in a food processor and pulse a few times to combine. Season to your taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Store covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

— John Ash PAIRING SUGGESTION: The creamy dressing suggests a creamy white wine like chardonnay with restrained oak or pinot blanc.

Makes 1 generous cup

¾ ¼

cup mayonnaise cup sour cream or crème fraîche 4 (or more) anchovy fillets packed in oil, drained and chopped 3 tablespoons chives, chopped 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon capers, drained and chopped 2 teaspoons lemon zest, finely grated — Sea salt and freshly ground pepper — Drops of fresh lemon juice

FEAST FAVORITES Fish & Seafood

69

Interactive Sushi Party Prepare all ingredients and rice ahead of guests' arrival. Set table with rolling mats, ingredients, rice, seaweed and water bowls.

When rolling the sushi, keep the mat tight while shaping the sushi inside the nori seaweed. Cut the sushi roll into thick slices to serve.

For shrimp: Skewer shell-on shrimp with 4-inch bamboo skewers and drop into boiling water until the shrimp rise to the top. Immediately transfer cooked shrimp to ice water bath to cool. Remove skewers and shells. Add shrimp to reserved sushi rice vinegar seasoning (see recipe below), and let marinate for 20 minutes.

Makes 8 to 10 servings

1

English cucumber, seeds removed, cut into 6-inch pieces and sliced thin 3 avocados, sliced 1 pound baby spinach, sauteed, cooled and pressed dry 2 organic carrots, preferably heirloom varietal, peeled and sliced thin 1 piece daikon radish, peeled and sliced thin 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced thin and sauteed 1 enoki mushroom, stem removed and pulled apart 1 pound smoked salmon 1 pound white shrimp, shell on, deveined — Toasted white or black sesame seeds 1 bag nori seaweed (for rolls) 1 bamboo rolling mat per person — Small bowls of water for each person to keep hands damp

Sushi Rice Rinse rice in medium bowl until water becomes clear, about five times.

Transfer rice to strainer and let dry for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine all remaining ingredients in pot and bring to a low simmer, allowing sugar and salt to dissolve. Strain and reserve.

Add rice and 41/2 cups filtered water to heavy-bottom pan and bring to a boil. Cover and turn heat to low, cooking for 20 minutes. Transfer rice to large mixing bowl and slowly add 3/4 cup vinegar seasoning, mixing with a wooden spatula. Spread rice out onto a baking sheet to allow it to cool quickly and evenly. Serve at room temperature with sushi roll ingredients. Reserve remaining rice vinegar seasoning for shrimp in recipe above.

— Jake Rand

70

FEAST FAVORITES Fish & Seafood

Makes 8 to 10 servings

4

cups short-grain sushi rice

For rice vinegar seasoning 1 cup rice vinegar 6 tablespoons natural sugar 1 mirin (0.45 ounce) 1/2 inch piece kombu 2 tablespoons salt (1.12 ounces)

PAIRING SUGGESTION: The natural drinking accompaniment would be sake, making this your chance to delve into this fascinating flavor world if you haven’t already.

JOHN BURGESS

Seafood Paella For sofrito: In a stainless steel pot over medium heat, add olive oil and sweat the garlic and onion with bay and rosemary until translucent.

Add the Piment d’Ville and cook for 1 minute. Add white wine and reduce by 75%. Add tomatoes and salt, and cook over low heat until reduced by 50%. Set aside or place in the refrigerator if you’ve made it ahead.

For shellfish stock: In a small stock pot, add olive oil, sweet onions, leeks, carrots, garlic and bay leaves and cook until translucent. Add shrimp shells and saute. Add water and wine, and simmer for at least 2 hours. Add saffron water and strain. Stock can be prepared in advance.

For saffron aioli: In a mortar and pestle, crush the garlic with the salt.

Add all the other ingredients except oil. Drizzle in the oil very slowly while emulsifying. (This also can be made in a blender or food processor.)

For sofrito Makes 6 servings

3 5 1 2 2 1 2 2 3

tablespoons olive oil large garlic cloves, minced cup yellow onion, diced fresh bay leaves sprigs rosemary teaspoon Piment d’Ville cups white wine tablespoons salt cups good canned whole tomatoes, grated with juices

For shellfish stock 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large yellow onion 1 leek 1 carrot 2 cloves garlic 2 bay leaves — Shells from shrimp (see below) cups water cup white wine gram saffron (bloomed in 200-degree water for 15 minutes)

For paella: In a 16-inch paella pan over medium heat, add in the oil.

Add the chorizo and shallots. Cook for 3 minutes, until shallots are opaque.

9 1 ½

Add in rice and stir for 1 minute. Add in sofrito and stir for 1 minute.

For saffron aioli 4 garlic cloves — Salt, to taste 2 egg yolks 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon Dijon 1 tablespoon saffron water

Add in stock and stir for 30 seconds. Let cook for 15 to 18 minutes.

Add clams while there is still a little liquid that hasn’t been absorbed yet. Place shrimp on top to steam. Cook for another 10 to 13 minutes.

Add beans into the rice, drizzle in a little olive oil and sprinkle Piment d’Ville and salt into pan.

To top, add basil and cilantro leaves and serve with the lemon wedges and saffron aioli.

— Perry Hoffman PAIRING SUGGESTION: This is a rich, complex dish so pick a rich, full-bodied white like pinot blanc or a sensibly oaked chardonnay.

2

(see above) cups good extra-virgin olive oil

For paella 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 ounces Spanish-style

chorizo, diced large shallots, minced cups Spanish Bomba or Calasparra rice 1½ pounds Manila clams 1 pound shrimp of choice, peeled and shells reserved for stock — Large handful summer pole beans, trimmed and used raw if they are sweet — Olive oil, sea salt and Piment d’Ville, on hand

4 3

For toppers — Handful of basil and cilantro leaves

1 lemon, sliced into wedges — Saffron aioli (see above)

72

FEAST FAVORITES Fish & Seafood

FIRST NAME LAST NAME

JOHN BURGESS

WINE COUNTRY COOKS Fish and Seafood

73

Grilled Oysters and Tips Choosing oysters: Be sure the shells are tightly closed, indicating the oysters are alive. Discard oysters with open shells. When you shake the bag, it should sound like a bag of rocks. If there is a hollow rattling sound, there’s at least one dead one in there. For oysters that will be eaten raw, buy the extra smalls. For oysters that will hit the heat of the grill, purchase smalls or mediums.

Shucking oysters: Rinse any residual mud from oysters with cold, running water.

Place an oyster on a double-folded kitchen towel with the cupped side of the oyster facing down on the towel. The “hinge” of the oyster should be facing you.

Fold the top of the towel up over the front of the oyster and stabilize it with your hand. This puts your hand above the oyster and not in the direct path of the oyster knife. Place the tip of your oyster knife into the hinge at about a 45-degree angle and, with light pressure and a slight wiggling motion, pierce the hinge muscle. You’ll feel the knife slide into the muscle when pierced. It may take a little practice to find the proper angle, but after your first dozen, you’ll be a pro.

Once you’ve pierced the hinge, twist the knife to separate the hinge muscle and access the underside of the top shell. Keep the tip of the knife in the hinge and rotate your knife around to the right side of the oyster, angle the front edge slightly up against the top shell and push the knife forward, scraping along the top shell to sever the top adductor muscle, located about two-thirds of the way lengthwise from the hinge on the right side. This will allow you to remove the top shell.

If serving the oyster raw, you can slide your knife under the oyster meat at the front of the oyster (opposite the hinge) and sever the lower adductor muscle located in the same place as the top muscle, but underneath.

Now, the oyster can be slurped right out of the shell. When the oyster is grilled, this muscle softens and this step can be skipped.

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Classic beverages to serve with oysters are sparkling wines (Champagne, prosecco or cava) or lemony sauvignon blanc.

74

FEAST FAVORITES Fish & Seafood

Grilling oysters 101 Light the charcoal or preheat a gas grill. Warm your sauces and gather some tablespoons or small ladles.

1 2

Shuck the oysters, discarding the top shell and leaving the oyster in the bottom shell. Arrange onto a sheet pan or plate.

Tip: Place a layer of rock salt on the plate to help stabilize the oysters.

3

Place oysters on the grill over medium heat, avoiding the hottest sections of the grill so water pockets in the shells don’t rupture and “pop.” It’s a good idea to wear glasses or protective eyewear when grilling oysters.

The oyster is cooked through once the liquid in it begins to boil. Return it to your plate or sheet pan and apply sauces.

4

Don’t apply the sauces when oysters are on the grill. Spilled butter will cause flare-ups and make the oyster shells pop like it’s the 4th of July, sending flying oyster shrapnel in all directions.

JOHN BURGESS

Garlic Butter Combine all ingredients in a small pot on low heat. Allow to simmer for 15 minutes and remove from heat. Allow to cool for 15 minutes.

Place garlic butter in blender and puree.

Makes about 1/2 cup

1/4 1 1/2 1

pound (1 stick) unsalted butter tablespoon garlic, minced teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon salt

Louisiana Hot Sauce Sweat onion and garlic in a saucepan with a small piece of the butter until translucent.

Add hot sauce, Worcestershire, garlic powder and onion powder to pot and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 15 minutes. Place sauce in blender with cold butter and salt, and puree.

— Brandon Guenther

Makes about 2 cups

1/4 1 1/2 1 1 1 1 1/2

cup yellow onion, minced teaspoon garlic, minced pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and refrigerated cup Louisiana-style hot sauce tablespoon Worcestershire sauce teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon onion powder teaspoon salt

FEAST FAVORITES Fish & Seafood

75

JOHN BURGESS

VEGETARIAN

Spanish Eggplant Omelet (Tortilla de Berenjenas) Heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in a wide skillet and saute the onion slowly for 10 minutes. Add eggplant and cook over medium-high heat until very tender, stirring often with a spatula, about 15 to 20 minutes. In a bowl, beat the eggs with the salt and pepper and stir in the eggplant.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in an 8- or 10-inch nonstick skillet.

When quite hot, pour in the eggplant mixture, reduce heat to low and cook, shaking the skillet occasionally, until set on the bottom and halfway through the omelet, 15 to 20 minutes. On top of the skillet, place an inverted plate slightly larger than the skillet and turn out the omelet on it; slide the omelet back into the skillet. Cook until firm and set all the way through, about 5 minutes. Slide omelet onto a serving platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.

— Marimar Torres

Makes 16 to 18 as tapas, 4 to 6 as main course

6 1 2 6 1 ½

tablespoons olive oil large onion, chopped pounds eggplant, preferably the long Japanese variety, small dice eggs teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Eggplant has been characterized as a tannin fighter for its inherent bitterness. Cabernet and merlot have lots of puckery tannins. This recipe should soften them and make the wine more accessible. Eggplant also would tame bitterness in beers.

FEAST FAVORITES Vegetarian

77

Maccabi Bowl For farro tabouleh: Add 4 cups cold water and the farro to a pot on the stovetop. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer. Once water is soaked up, taste the farro; it may need a bit more time and water. Once it’s tender, strain excess water, spread farro out on a sheet pan and let cool.

Place cooled farro, cucumber, tomato and onion in a bowl. Mix with the oil and vinegar and chopped herbs, to taste.

For baba ganoush: A charcoal grill works best for eggplant, but a gas grill or grill pan will do as well. You also can use your oven.

If using charcoal or gas grill, place whole eggplant away from direct heat and put lid on grill. Rotate eggplant periodically. The skin should not get too charred. Once flesh of eggplant is soft on the inside, about 15 minutes, remove from heat and cover. When eggplant is cool enough to handle, cut in half and scrape the flesh out into your food processor, being careful not to get too much skin.

Pour remaining ingredients in the processor with eggplant except for olive oil. Puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle in olive oil, to taste. Chill, and reserve.

For beet dip: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place beets in roasting pan. Fill bottom of pan with water, and cover tightly with foil. Roast for about an hour. When the skin peels back with a push of your thumb, the beets are done. Let cool and peel. Chop roughly, and sprinkle with red wine vinegar.

Place beets and remaining ingredients except the honey in a food processor. Pulse until consistency of pesto. Season with salt and pepper. Add honey, if desired, to taste. Chill, and reserve.

To serve: Put the greens in a salad bowl and top with the tabouleh, baba ganoush, beet dip, hummus, pita chips and falafel.

— Matt Spector PAIRING SUGGESTION: This recipe has lots of delicious flavors happening. To not complicate the enjoyment of it, go for a clean, simple sparkling wine like Italian prosecco or Spanish cava.

78

FEAST FAVORITES Vegetarian

Makes 4 to 6 servings

For farro tabouleh 1 cup farro 1 small cucumber, skinned, seeded and diced small heirloom tomato, diced small 1 stalk green onion, sliced thin — Extra-virgin olive oil — Red wine vinegar — Mint and Italian parsley, roughly chopped

1

For baba ganoush 1 large eggplant 11/2 tablespoons Greek yogurt 1 tablespoon tahini 1 garlic clove 1 tablespoon lemon juice — Salt and pepper — Extra-virgin olive oil For beet dip 3 large beets 1 tablespoon red wine

vinegar clove garlic cup toasted walnuts cup Greek yogurt tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil — Salt and pepper — Honey

1 1/4 1/2 11/2

For salad — Mixed greens and arugula — Hummus — Pita chips — Falafel

JOHN BURGESS

JOHN BURGESS

California Winter Bowls In a medium pot, place 1 cup farro and cover with about 2 cups water, generously salted. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer and cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and cool, then toss with a bit of olive oil to coat and gloss up the grains.

For the squash, preheat oven to 450 degrees and get a baking sheet ready. Wash the squash, slice it lengthwise and scrape out seeds. Once clean, turn it flesh side down, slice ½-inch half moons and place in a bowl. Drizzle in olive oil, season with salt and pepper, coat well and line up each half moon on the sheet pan. Roast for about 15 minutes or until soft and a bit caramelized. Cool.

Remove the peel of the orange with your knife and cut the orange in half. Slice ½-inch pieces and make sure to discard any seeds. On a mandoline or the large size on a box grater, shave the Brussels sprouts into paper-thin slices. Do the same for the red onion.

For the vinaigrette: Mix the first four ingredients together and slowly drizzle olive oil to emulsify. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

To assemble: Mix all ingredients together (make sure to save a few pieces of squash, oranges and feta for garnish) in large bowl and toss with the dressing. Using your clean hands, toss very well and taste for seasoning. Place on platter and garnish the salad, using your reserved pieces of squash, orange, mint and feta.

— Johnny and Julia Gnall

80

FEAST FAVORITES Vegetarian

Makes 4 servings

For bowl 1 cup cooked farro 2 cups roasted delicata squash

— Olive oil, salt and pepper 1 Cara Cara orange 2 cups shaved Brussels

sprouts small red onion, sliced very thin ½ cup feta cheese, crumbled — Mint (optional, for garnish)

½

For Meyer lemon vinaigrette ¼ cup Meyer lemon juice — Zest of one lemon 1 clove of garlic, grated on microplane

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard ½ cup good olive oil — Salt and pepper, to taste

PAIRING SUGGESTION: If you are a red wine drinker, go for a young Beaujolais (gamay) or a New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Beer drinkers could choose a lager, wheat beer or dry brown ale.

JOHN BURGESS

Grilled Fava Beans In a large bowl, toss the bean pods with olive oil, salt and any of the seasonings you like.

Arrange bean pods in a single layer on a grill over medium-high heat.

If you are using a grill pan, you may need to cook them in batches.

Grill for 3 to 4 minutes until blistered on one side, then flip and grill for a couple of minutes more on the other side.

If you aren’t sure when to pull them off, take a pod off the grill, open and taste one of the beans. You want the fava beans to be smooth and creamy when you pop them out of their skins, not undercooked. Keep in mind that they’ll keep steaming in their pods for a few minutes after they come off the grill. Eat them as soon as you can handle the pods without singeing your fingers.

— John Ash

Makes 2 servings

1

pound or more fresh young fava beans, in their pods — Couple splashes good olive oil — Generous sprinkling good sea salt

Optional seasonings — Red pepper flakes — Lemon zest — Chopped fresh herbs Other accompaniments — Grilled lemon slices — Breakfast radishes — Young Pecorino cheese

PAIRING SUGGESTION: A crisp white Italian wine like vermentino would work here, or prosecco with its bright acidity and bubbles.

FEAST FAVORITES Vegetarian

81

BREAKFAST & BRUNCH

French Toast Whisk eggs in a large bowl and mix in milk, 1/4 vanilla bean (or 1/4 teaspoon extract) and cinnamon.

Dredge slices of brioche in the egg mixture (two to three slices per person). While they soak, using an electric mixer or by hand, whip cream with 1/4 vanilla bean (or 1/4 teaspoon extract) and a tablespoon of maple syrup until peaks stand on their own. Transfer to container and refrigerate.

On a large skillet on medium to high heat, add clarified butter or oil of your choice and pan fry the soaked bread until lightly browned and egg is cooked throughout, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Serve hot, topped with a teaspoon of fresh room-temperature butter, the whipped cream, berries and maple syrup.

— Ryan Ramey PAIRING SUGGESTION: Given the challenge of pairing wine, sweetness and eggs, how about a well-made latte instead?

82

FEAST FAVORITES Breakfast & Brunch

Makes 2 servings

2 2/3 1/4 1/4 — 1/2 1/4 1 — — — —

eggs cup whole milk vanilla bean, scraped, or 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract teaspoon cinnamon Sliced brioche bread pint heavy whipping cream vanilla bean, scraped, or 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract tablespoon maple syrup Clarified butter or oil for cooking Butter, to serve Organic berries, to serve Maple syrup, to serve

ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

Breakfast Salad Makes 2 servings

For the dressing: Make salad dressing in food processor or in bowl with a whisk. Finely chop shallot, garlic and thyme. Mix in Dijon and honey and add the vinegar. While mixing, slowly pour in olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. Put in a dispenser and set aside. Makes 8 ounces, but salad only requires 4 tablespoons.

For the salad: Chop potato, and fry in hot oil or saute in a pan. Slice mushrooms and onion. Crisp the sliced bacon in a pan or on a baking sheet in the oven. Saute onion and mushrooms with a drop of oil.

Simmer a small pot of water with a splash of apple cider vinegar in it for poaching eggs.

Toss greens and spinach in a bowl with dressing. With your hands or tongs, plate dressed greens on a large dinner plate.

Carefully slice and scoop out avocado. Serve each salad with half an avocado. Scoop and serve three quarter-size balls of chevre on each salad. Top with sliced onions.

Carefully crack two eggs into simmering pot of water. (You can crack the eggs in a bowl and carefully slide them into the low-simmering water; be careful not to crack the yolk.) Simmer for 7 minutes until whites are cooked but yolks are still runny, or longer if desired.

With a spoon, transfer hot mushrooms and crispy potatoes to salad and sprinkle around. Place two strips of bacon on top of each salad.

Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove poached egg and place in between bacon strips on the top of the salads. Garnish egg with cracked pepper. Drizzle dressing on top.

— Ryan Ramey PAIRING SUGGESTION: As a general rule for salads, lean toward medium-bodied whites, lighter-style reds like gamay or lager-type beer.

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FEAST FAVORITES Breakfast & Brunch

For the dressing 1 small or 1/2 large shallot 1-2 cloves garlic (depending on size) bunch thyme teaspoon Dijon mustard tablespoons honey cup apple cider vinegar cup organic extra-virgin olive oil — Salt and pepper, a pinch of each

1 1 2 1/2 1

For the salad 1 medium Yukon gold potato, parboiled

3-4 King Trumpet mushrooms — Red onion, a few thinly 4 3 1/2 1 1 2

sliced rings for each salad strips bacon ounces baby mixed green lettuces ounce baby spinach avocado, sliced (half of one for each salad) container chevre eggs

JOHN BURGESS

Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce (Shakshuka) Heat oil in a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic and jalapeños and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and just beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Add garbanzos, cumin and paprika and cook for another minute or 2.

Add tomatoes and 1 cup stock. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. With a wooden spoon, crush some of the beans to help thicken. Add more stock, if desired. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle feta over sauce.

Crack the eggs into sauce so eggs are evenly spaced. Cover skillet, reduce heat if sauce is bubbling too frantically and cook until whites are set but yolks are runny, 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle shakshuka with parsley and mint and serve with pita, for dipping.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1/4 1 6 1 1 11/2 1 1 1 —

Alternatively, eggs can be poached separately and added just before serving to heat through.

— John Ash

1/2 4-6 2

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Eggs can be a little problematic with wine, and this recipe has a lot going on. Choose a crisp sparkling wine or rosé.

—

1

cup extra-virgin olive oil medium onion, peeled and chopped cloves garlic, coarsely chopped small jalapeño chile, stemmed and chopped, or to taste 15-ounce can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed teaspoons ground cumin teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, preferably fire-roasted cup or more chicken stock or water Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup crumbled feta cheese eggs tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped teaspoon dry mint, crumbled Warm pita, for serving

FEAST FAVORITES Breakfast & Brunch

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JOHN BURGESS

Duck Egg Tortilla Española In a small pot, add sliced potatoes, 1 teaspoon salt and enough water to go 1 inch above the potatoes. Place over medium heat on the stove.

Bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat. Let the potatoes sit in the water for 5 minutes, then drain and cool.

Cook the onions in a small saute pan with 1 tablespoon oil and 1 teaspoon salt, until tender, about 5 minutes.

In a mixing bowl, whisk the duck eggs, crème fraîche and onions.

Then mix in the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and potatoes, gently. Place 2 tablespoons oil in a 6-inch pan and place on the stove over medium heat. When it is hot, just before the oil wants to smoke, pour the egg mixture into the pan. Make sure the egg coats all of the potatoes and onions. Place in a 350-degree oven for about 15 minutes. You will know it is done when you move the pan and the egg mixture no longer jiggles.

Makes 4 servings

2

large Russet potatoes, cut into quarters, then cut into ½-inch pieces 3 teaspoons kosher salt 1 large red onion, sliced thin 3 tablespoons rice bran oil (preferably non-GMO) 6 duck eggs 1 tablespoon crème fraîche — Salsa verde (optional, for garnish) — Duck Egg Aioli (see recipe below)

Flip it out onto a serving plate. Cut into four slices and top with salsa verde, if using. Serve with the aioli and a green salad on the side.

Duck Egg Aioli Put the garlic cloves and oil in a small pot. Bring to a gentle simmer, then turn the heat to low, letting the garlic and oil steep for 15 minutes.

Be careful not to brown the garlic, as this will make it bitter. Strain, and cool the oil into a bowl.

Using a mixer, blender or whisk, combine the three duck egg yolks, mustard powder and salt. Begin mixing for 1 minute, then slowly drizzle in the oil. Once all the oil is incorporated, add the lemon juice and taste.

— Daniel Kedan

Makes 2 cups

6 2 3 1 1 1

whole garlic cloves, peeled cups rice bran oil (preferably non-GMO) duck egg yolks teaspoon mustard powder teaspoon salt lemon, juiced

PAIRING SUGGESTION: Some options for this classic Spanish dish: sparkling wines, dry rosé from France or almost any California dry rosé. The acidity of these fresh, crisp wines can cut through the fatty components.

FEAST FAVORITES Breakfast & Brunch

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JOHN BURGESS

Buttermilk Cinnamon Coffee Cake Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, mix the flour, salt, cinnamon, ginger, both sugars and oil. Remove 3/4 cup of this mixture to a separate bowl, stir in the nuts and set aside to use as a topping.

Makes 12 servings

21/4 1/2 2 1/4 1 3/4

To the remaining batter, add the baking soda, baking powder, egg and buttermilk. Mix to combine all ingredients. Small lumps in the batter are OK.

3/4 1

Pour the batter into a well-greased, 8-inch square by 2-inch deep baking pan or dish. Sprinkle the topping mixture evenly over the surface.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Remove and let cool.

1 1 1 1

cups all-purpose flour teaspoon salt teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon ginger cup brown sugar cup white sugar, preferably organic cup vegetable oil cup walnuts or pecans, chopped teaspoon baking soda teaspoon baking powder egg, beaten cup buttermilk

PAIRING SUGGESTION: For this medium-sweet cake, choose a wine with similar sweetness. You also could explore the world of sherry, with a medium-sweet palo cortado or oloroso sherry.

Champagne Sabayon Beat the yolks, sugar and salt until light. Place mixture in a heatproof bowl over, but not touching, simmering water and whisk in the sparkling wine and kirsch. Continue whisking and turning the bowl until the mixture mounds and quadruples in volume. There should be no liquid visible and the mixture should be thick with the consistency of whipped cream. This will take 3 minutes or so. Spoon on top of fresh berries and serve immediately.

— John Ash

Makes 4 servings

7 1/2 — 3/4 2

2

large egg yolks cup sugar Pinch of salt cup sparkling wine or Champagne tablespoons kirsch or orange-flavored liqueur, such as Grand Marnier (optional) cups or so fresh berries of your choice

FEAST FAVORITES Breakfast & Brunch

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Asparagus and Goat Cheese Frittata Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Whisk together the first three ingredients in a medium-size bowl.

Place a medium-size nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Add butter and swirl to coat pan evenly. Add egg mixture.

Gently stir over medium-high heat with a rubber spatula until the eggs are half cooked and have a very glossy, scrambled-egg look.

Mix in asparagus, spring onion and green garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with crumbled goat cheese.

Immediately place in oven and bake for about 10 minutes or until the top springs back when touched. Remove from oven, let cool for a minute and carefully slide frittata out onto a cutting board.

Cut into pie wedges and serve with breakfast potatoes, bacon and toast, if desired.

— David Frakes PAIRING SUGGESTION: Eggs and asparagus each can make a wine pairing problematic. Go for a crisp, clean white — the crisper, the better. A Bloody Mary would make a good match, too.

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FEAST FAVORITES Breakfast & Brunch

Makes 4 servings

12 ¼ 2 1 1

large eggs cup milk tablespoons water tablespoon butter pound asparagus, cut into 2-inch pieces and blanched for 30 seconds in boiling, salted water 1 spring onion, sliced thin and blanched in boiling water for 1 minute (optional) 1 green garlic, sliced thin and blanched in boiling water for 1 minute (optional) — Salt and pepper, to taste 4 ounces goat cheese

JOHN BURGESS

CHRISTPHER CHUNG

DESSERTS

Fresh Peach Tart For dough: In a food processor, blend sugar and butter on low speed until combined. Add vanilla. Mix well, then add the flour slowly until dough forms. Do not overmix. Place dough onto plastic wrap and let chill for 4 hours. Roll out and form into tart pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 10 minutes.

Makes 4 small tarts

For pastry cream: Bring hot milk, 2 ounces of the sugar and the vanilla to a boil. In a second pan, blend together the cornstarch and second 2 ounces of sugar, then blend in egg and yolks. Pour hot milk over the mixture and stir constantly over low heat until thick. Place butter in small pieces on top of cream. When cream is cool, stir in butter.

For pastry cream 16 ounces whole milk, hot 2 ounces sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 ounce cornstarch 2 ounces sugar 1 whole egg 2 egg yolks 2 ounces butter

To assemble: Place pastry cream inside each tart shell. Top with the fresh peach slices.

— Summer Sebastiani

For dough 4 ounces powdered sugar 8 ounces unsalted butter 1 teaspoon vanilla 12 ounces all-purpose flour

For topping 4 fresh peaches, pitted and sliced

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Apple-Almond Tart In a food processor, pulse the flour, sugar and salt for a few seconds until combined. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture becomes crumbly and resembles coarse meal, about 10 pulses. Beat the egg yolk with vanilla extract and water. Add to dry ingredients and keep pulsing until the dough is no longer dry and starts to clump together, about 10 to 15 seconds. Do not process to the point that a large ball of dough is formed; the dough should be quite crumbly with large clumps.

You also can check if the dough is done by pressing a piece between your thumbs; the dough should stick without feeling dry or crumbly.

Gather the dough into ball; flatten into disc. Wrap in plastic and chill until firm, at least 1 hour.

Remove dough from the fridge and let it sit on the counter for a few minutes to soften slightly for easy rolling. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out into an 11-inch circle, then place gently into a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and place in the freezer until firm, about 30 minutes.

Makes 1 9-inch tart

To bake the crust: Preheat oven to 375 degrees and place a rack in the center. Press parchment paper or aluminum foil tightly against the crust, covering the edges to prevent them from burning. Fill with pie weights, dried beans or uncooked rice, making sure the weights are fully distributed over the entire surface of the crust. Bake the crust for 20 minutes at 375 degrees. To cool, transfer the crust to a wire rack and remove the weights and foil.

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FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

203 60 1/4 128 1 1 1

grams all-purpose flour grams powdered sugar teaspoon kosher salt grams cold unsalted butter, cubed egg yolk teaspoon vanilla extract teaspoon ice-cold water

KATIE RUMMEL

Almond filling and apple slices In a food processor, pulse the almond meal and sugar until blended, then add the butter and process again until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, followed by the lemon zest and almond extract. Process once more until filling is thoroughly mixed. Just before assembling the tart, peel, core and thinly slice the apples.

Assembling and baking the tart: When the tart crust is cooled, whisk an egg and use a pastry brush to coat a thin layer of whisked egg all over the crust. Spread the prepared almond filling into the crust and arrange the apple slices and sliced almonds on top. With a small bunch of apple slices in your hand, you can fan them out and place them gently on the tart, covering about half the top of the tart.

Makes 2 cups of filling

4 ounces almond meal 3½ ounces sugar 4 ounces unsalted butter, 2 1 1/2 3 1/2 1

room temperature eggs teaspoon lemon zest teaspoon almond extract medium-size Golden Delicious apples ounce sliced almonds egg, whisked

Bake at 350 degrees for approximately 30 to 45 minutes or until the crust and filling have bronzed. Allow to cool slightly before dusting with powdered sugar, if desired.

— Mimo Ahmed FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

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ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

Warm Fig and Thyme Crisp For pastry: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a food processor, grind the walnuts until medium-fine with 6 tablespoons of sugar and set aside. In an electric mixer, mix 3/4 cup sugar, brown sugar, salt, baking powder and flour until well combined. Add the butter and mix until clumps form. Add the vanilla and egg yolks to the mixture and mix for 40 seconds. Pack two-thirds of the dough into the bottom of an ungreased pan and bake until dough is light brown, about 25 to 30 minutes.

For jam: In a heavy-bottom pot, combine the figs, sugar, lemon zest, thyme and lemon juice and pour in enough water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat and simmer until the figs are tender, about 30 minutes. Remove the thyme. Puree the mixture in a food processor until smooth.

To assemble the crisp, spread the jam evenly over the baked dough. In a bowl, crumble together the remaining third of dough and the walnut and sugar mixture. Sprinkle the mixture over the fig jam and bake for 50 minutes.

Garnish with ice cream, roasted figs and caramel sauce.

96

FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

— John Toulze

Makes 9-by-12-inch crisp

For pastry 2 cups walnut halves 6 tablespoons plus 3/4 cup

granulated sugar cup light brown sugar, packed 11/2 teaspoons salt 11/2 teaspoons baking powder 41/2 cups flour 3/4 pound (3 sticks) butter, sliced thin 3 teaspoons vanilla extract 3 egg yolks

3/4

For jam 21/2 pounds dried figs 3/4 cup granulated sugar — Zest of 3 lemons, grated 1 bunch thyme, tied with 3

twine tablespoons lemon juice

For garnishes — Vanilla ice cream — Roasted figs — Caramel sauce

Apple Cranberry Crostata with Cinnamon Topping For crust: Mix flour, sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Add butter. Cut in with back of fork until butter is reduced to oatmeal-size flakes. Add ice water.

Toss until moist clumps form, adding more ice water by teaspoonfuls if dough is dry. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap and chill at least 1 hour or up to 1 day.

For topping: Mix flour, brown sugar, cornmeal, cinnamon and salt in bowl. Add butter. Blend with back of fork until moist clumps form. Mix in almonds.

For filling: Set rack at lowest position in oven and preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place 6 tablespoons sugar in large bowl. Scrape in seeds from vanilla bean; stir to blend well. Mix in apples and cranberries.

Add 3 tablespoons melted butter and toss to coat.

Roll out dough on floured sheet of parchment paper to a 131/2-inch round. Arrange apple filling in center, mounding slightly and leaving 2-inch dough border. Gently fold dough border over edge of filling, pleating loosely and pinching any cracks to seal.

Brush dough border with remaining 1 tablespoon melted butter and sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Sprinkle topping over exposed apple filling.

Slide rimless baking sheet under parchment and crostata and place in oven.

Makes 8 servings

For crust 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1/8 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons chilled 3

unsalted butter, diced tablespoons ice water

For crumb topping 2/3 cup all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons (packed)

golden brown sugar tablespoons yellow cornmeal 11/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, diced 2/3 cup blanched slivered almonds

2

For filling 7 tablespoons sugar, divided 1 vanilla bean, split 4

3/4 4

lengthwise large pippin or Sierra Beauty apples, peeled, halved and sliced 1/4 inch thick cup dried sweetened cranberries tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and divided

Bake until crust is crisp and apples are tender, about 40 minutes, rotating baking sheet after 20 minutes.

Run knife under crostata to loosen from paper. Cool completely on paper on baking sheet.

— Lisa Lavagetto

FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

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Grilled Fruits with Mint Custard Sauce For the grill sauce: In a small saucepan, combine the ingredients and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk to combine into a smooth sauce.

Makes 8 servings

For the fruit: Brush or dip fruits in sauce and then quickly grill over medium-hot coals until nicely marked, about 2 minutes total. Remove and slice fruit boldly. Arrange the grilled fruit attractively in shallow soup plates. Spoon custard sauce around and scatter berries over top.

3 ¼

For grill sauce ¼ cup dry white wine 4 tablespoons unsalted

¼

butter tablespoons honey teaspoon ground white pepper teaspoon ground allspice

Fruit for grilling 2 large, firm, ripe nectarines or peaches, halved and pitted 4 ripe plums, halved and pitted 8 figs, halved 1 small fresh pineapple, peeled, cored and cut in thick slices — Mint Custard Sauce (recipe below) 3 cups mixed fresh berries of your choice

Mint Custard Sauce In a bowl, whisk the sugar and egg yolks together until light and sugar is dissolved. In a small saucepan, scald cream with mint leaves.

Off heat, slowly beat cream mixture into egg mixture. Add vanilla.

Return mixture to saucepan and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until sauce just begins to thicken, about 3 minutes. Be careful not to cook too long or egg will scramble. Immediately strain, discarding leaves and refrigerate with a sheet of plastic wrap pressed onto the custard to keep a skin from forming. Can be made 3 days ahead.

— John Ash

98

FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

Makes about 3 cups

½ 5 2 ½ ½

cup sugar egg yolks cups light cream (half and half) cup fresh mint leaves, lightly packed teaspoon vanilla extract

JOHN BURGESS

FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

99

Bûche de Noël For cake: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a 9-by-13-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Grease paper.

In a bowl, beat yolks with half the sugar on high for 5 minutes. Beat in vanilla and cocoa powder. Pour mixture into another bowl and wash bowl and whisk attachment. In the clean bowl, beat whites with cream of tartar and salt until soft peaks form. Slowly add the rest of the sugar and continue whisking until stiff peaks form. Fold a third of egg whites into yolk mixture until mostly mixed in. Gently fold in the rest of the whites.

Pour cake batter into prepared pan and bake until cake springs back, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool for 3 minutes. Flip cake onto a clean kitchen towel that has been dusted with cocoa powder. Gently roll the cake while it is still hot. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until cold.

For mousse: Over a double boiler or a metal bowl set over a pan of boiling water (but not touching the water), melt chocolate and butter until completely melted. Turn off heat and leave top of double boiler or bowl in place to keep chocolate warm while you prepare the egg whites.

In a separate bowl, beat whites until stiff but not dry. Add yolks to the warm chocolate mixture. Fold whipped whites into chocolate. Fold in softly whipped cream. Remove cake from refrigerator and unwrap and unroll cake. Spread all of chocolate mousse mixture evenly on top of cake. Roll up cake and filling slowly. Wrap finished cake and place in

100

FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

Makes 8 to 10 servings

For cake 6 egg yolks ¾ cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup cocoa powder, sifted 5 egg whites — Pinch of cream of tartar — Pinch of salt For mousse 5½ ounces semisweet 1½ 2 2 ½

chocolate, chopped ounces unsalted butter egg whites egg yolks cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

For ganache 8 ounces of semisweet ¾ 1

chocolate, chopped cup heavy cream ounce (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter

JOHN BURGESS

freezer until mousse is set.

For ganache: When mousse is firm, prepare ganache. Place chopped chocolate in a small bowl. Bring cream and butter to a rolling boil in a small saucepan. Immediately pour hot cream over chocolate and let sit for 1 minute. Gently whisk chocolate until smooth.

Remove cake from freezer and unwrap. Carefully spread warm ganache onto cake. Allow the ganache to set for 2 to 3 minutes. While it’s still soft to the touch, use an offset spatula or fork to create “bark” on the “log” by making long strokes on the ganache.

Refrigerate cake until ganache is hardened and set. Keep in fridge and serve cold, within an hour of taking out of the fridge.

— Casey Stone

FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

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Flourless Chocolate Cake with Red Wine Cherry Compote Butter an 8-inch cake pan and line it with parchment. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift the sugar and cocoa powder together into a small bowl, and set aside.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Set a pot on the stove with 2 inches of water for a water bath, and bring to a simmer. In a bowl that will sit in the top of the pot, add the chopped chocolate and butter. Place the bowl over the heat and gently stir with a heat-proof spatula until just melted (do not allow to get too warm). Whisk in the sugar and cocoa powder mixture until fully incorporated. Whisk in each egg individually, just incorporating each before adding the next. Whisk in vanilla and salt.

1/2

11/4 cups sugar 1/4 cup cocoa powder 10 ounces roughly chopped

4 1 1/2

bittersweet chocolate cup unsalted butter, cut into chunks large eggs teaspoon vanilla extract teaspoon kosher salt

For whipped crème fraîche 11/2 tablespoons sugar 1/4 cup crème fraîche 1/2 cup heavy cream

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, and place on a rack in the center of the oven. Bake for 30 minutes, until just set. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature before turning out.

For the whipped crème fraîche: In a bowl, whisk together the sugar and crème fraîche until smooth. In a separate bowl, whip the heavy cream until medium stiff peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the crème fraîche mixture. Makes 2 to 3 cups.

To serve, slice into even slices and place on plates. Spoon 2 tablespoons dried cherries and syrup (see recipe below) next to the cake slice and top with the whipped crème fraîche.

Cherry Red Wine Compote Bring the wine, cinnamon stick and sugar to a simmer and add the cherries. Return to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, until the cherries plump. Remove from the heat and allow to cool fully.

Remove the cinnamon stick. Serve at room temperature. Will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week.

— Liza Hinman

102

FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

Makes about 2 cups

1 1/2 1/2 1

cup dry red wine cinnamon stick cup sugar cup dried sour cherries

BETH SCHLANKER

PAIRING SUGGESTION: For all these dessert recipes, the overriding consideration is to balance the sweetness of the wine or other beverage with the sweetness of the recipe. If a lot of sweet is not your preference, go with good coffee with acidity to cut through the sweetness of the recipe. Good dessert wines such as late-harvest wines, ice wine, Sauternes or sweet sherries are rich, complex desserts by themselves.

FEAST FAVORITES Desserts

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COCKTAILS & MOCKTAILS

Mandarin Greyhound Build cocktail in a shaker filled with ice and shake. Serve over ice in a rocks glass. Garnish with a twist of organic grapefruit.

— The Hanson Family

104

FEAST FAVORITES Cocktails & Mocktails

Makes 1 serving

1½ ounces Hanson Organic

Mandarin Vodka ounces fresh-squeezed organic grapefruit juice ½ ounce fresh-squeezed organic lemon juice ½ ounce organic agave nectar — Fresh organic grapefruit twist, for garnish

2

ERIK CASTRO

CHRISTOPHER CHUNG

Basil, Cucumber and Mint Spritzer In a shaker, add simple syrup, lemon juice, mint, basil and lemon zest.

Shake for 15 seconds; strain over ice. Add sparkling water and garnish with a slice of lemon and the basil-cucumber skewer.

To turn this mocktail into a cocktail or a popsicle, add 2 to 4 ounces of bourbon.

— Sheana Davis

106

FEAST FAVORITES Cocktails & Mocktails

Makes 1 spritzer or 2 popsicles

1 1 2

teaspoon simple syrup teaspoon fresh lemon juice fresh mint leaves, washed and torn in pieces 4 fresh basil leaves, washed and torn in pieces 4 strips fresh lemon zest 4 ounces sparkling water — Slice of lemon — Slice of cucumber, wrapped in basil leaves and skewered — Ice

CHRISTOPHER CHUNG

Smoking Rosemary Watermelon Cooler Place ice in a highball glass and add watermelon juice, cranberry juice, simple syrup and lime juice. Stir together. Garnish with a rosemary sprig, set on fire with a crème brûlée torch, and watermelon chunks on skewers.

To turn this mocktail into a cocktail or popsicle, add 2 to 4 ounces of bourbon.

— Sheana Davis

Makes 1 cooler or 2 popsicles

— 4 2 1 1 —

Ice ounces watermelon juice ounces cranberry juice tablespoon simple syrup teaspoon lime juice Flaming Rosemary Sprig and watermelon chunks

FEAST FAVORITES Cocktails & Mocktails

107

Strawberry Balsamic Smash Cocktail For simple syrup: Combine 1/2 cup granulated sugar and 1/2 cup cold water in a jar with a lid. Shake the jar vigorously until the sugar is dissolved, about 1 minute.

Makes 2 servings

For the cocktail: In a 16-ounce cocktail shaker, mash together all cocktail ingredients except the alcohol using a muddler or the back of a wooden spoon. Shake four to five times to release the oils and juices.

Add 1/2 cup of gin. With a fine-mesh sieve, strain the gin mixture into a large measuring cup.

For cocktail 4 1/2-inch lime wedges, from

Fill cocktail glasses three-quarters full with crushed ice and pour gin mixture over top. Garnish edge of glass with a cucumber wheel.

— Julie Steinfeld 108

FEAST FAVORITES Cocktails & Mocktails

For simple syrup 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup cold water

4 2 2 1 1/2

1 lime 1/2-inch cucumber rounds, plus more for garnish, from 1 English cucumber fresh hulled strawberries tablespoons simple syrup teaspoon balsamic vinegar cup gin (or vodka)

ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

Spicy Margarita Punch In a large punch bowl or glass bowl, muddle the cucumber, jalapeño, cilantro and mint using a muddler or the back of a wooden spoon.

Add the remaining ingredients except for the salt and stir well.

Refrigerate until well chilled, about 1 hour.

Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the solids from the punch. Fill the cocktail glasses (rimmed with salt, if desired) three-quarters full with crushed ice, and pour over punch.

— Julie Steinfeld

Makes 10 servings

1

English cucumber, sliced thin 1 small jalapeño, sliced thin 1/4 cup cilantro, lightly packed 1/4 cup mint, lightly packed 1 750-ml bottle silver tequila 2 cups fresh lime juice 1/2 cup fresh orange juice 1 cup light agave nectar — Kosher salt for rimming the edge of glass, optional

FEAST FAVORITES Cocktails & Mocktails

109

ALVIN A.H. JORNADA

Diavola Spritz Squeeze the Meyer lemon wedge into a tulip glass and drop it in.

Add the Cappeletti, grapefruit bitters and ice, then prosecco and soda water. Garnish with blood orange slice.

— Dino Bugica and Kasey Drady

110

FEAST FAVORITES Cocktails & Mocktails

Makes 1 serving

1 3 2 2 1 1

wedge Meyer lemon ounces Cappeletti Vino Aperitivo (or Aperol) dashes grapefruit bitters ounces prosecco ounce soda water slice blood orange, for garnish

JOHN BURGESS

Harvest Moon Cocktail Combine all cocktail ingredients in a Collins glass, and add ice threequarters of the way to the top. Finish with 3 ounces of Fever Tree Tonic and you have a playful twist on a gin and tonic.

Makes 1 serving

Garnish with pomegranate seeds, a lemon wheel and some rosemary or pineapple sage.

1 1 3

— Sam Levy and Matt Kazin

1½ ounces Spirit Works Gin 1½ ounces pomegranate juice 1 ounce Nigori Sake, unfiltered ounce simple syrup ounce lemon juice ounces Fever Tree Tonic

For garnish — Pomegranate seeds — Lemon wheel — Rosemary or pineapple sage

FEAST FAVORITES Cocktails & Mocktails

111

ERIK CASTRO

Hanson Dirty Martini Chill martini glass. Add ingredients in a mixing glass over ice. Stir and strain. Garnish with two organic Castelvetrano olives and a lemon peel.

— The Hanson Family

Makes 1 serving

2½ ounces Hanson Organic ½ ½ 2 1

112

FEAST FAVORITES Cocktails & Mocktails

Original Vodka ounce Trincheri Dry Vermouth ounce organic olive juice organic Castelvetrano olives, for garnish lemon peel

Pairing food and drinks with Wine Country chef John Ash “Wine is food” may be a cliché, but it’s true.

Wine is another flavor to enjoy with whatever you’re eating. But it’s also true that the wine you like is probably the one you’ll serve with whatever food you’re making. A pairing suggestion for a big, tannic red does you no good if you don’t like them. The same can be said of sweet wines. You might not like them, but experimenting with them could change your mind. Here I make some suggestions to nudge you outside your comfort zone to discover new options, if you are ready for that.

You should be, but that’s just my opinion!

Too often wineries — and wine professionals — have rhapsodized about wine and used jargon that is both unfamiliar and intimidating. As a result, many of us have been unwilling to try wine for fear of making a “mistake” or being embarrassed by our lack of knowledge.

At the same time, we are in the midst of unprecedented exploration of flavors and techniques from many different cuisines, including Asian, Latin, Middle Eastern and Indian. We poor consumers are further confused about matching food and wine, so we often just opt for a simple beverage that doesn’t require any thought, like a house wine. Here’s a secret: many restaurateurs are similarly confused and so create wine and beverage lists that don’t harmonize with their food or, worse yet, are full of ego.

In Sonoma County, famous for its wine, we have cider makers, spirit distillers and popular breweries, too. You’ll find suggestions at the end of this section for pairing with some of these beverages as well. Beer, for example, can be a perfect match for Asian dishes with spice and can cool the chiles in these dishes while a big, oaky white or tannic red would make the chiles even hotter.

FLAVOR GUIDELINES Let’s begin with two crucial understandings.

First, matching food and wine (or any other beverage) is very subjective. Each of us has different likes and dislikes in what we eat and drink.

FEAST FAVORITES Pairing food and drinks

113

Second, there are no absolute rules in matching food and wine. Even the traditional “rule” of pairing red wine with red meat and white wine with fish, poultry or white meat isn’t fixed. Chicken can go well with a clean, crisp, delicate white wine or a rich, earthy red wine depending on how you season, flavor, sauce and cook it. Joshua Wesson and David Rosengarten wrote a pivotal book, “Red Wine with Fish,” which expanded our understanding about pairing food and wine.

It’s worth a read.

Here are a few helpful flavor guidelines you can play with as you explore wine pairing:

Acidity

Foods high in acid such as citrus or tomatoes usually are best matched with wines that have good acidity, such as sauvignon blanc, riesling and sparkling wine.

Foods with some sweetness or residual sugar are best paired with wines that have a similar level of sweetness. If the food is sweeter than the wine, the wine will taste dry and astringent, with the fruit stripped away.

Sugar is an important ingredient in Asian savory dishes, for example, so bone-dry wines usually don’t pair as well with those dishes as wines with a bit of sweetness do.

Again, in many Asian cuisines, salt plays an important role (think soy sauce). Wines with good acidity and/or a bit of residual sugar, such as chenin blanc, rieslings and Champagne, can balance salt. Salt makes wine taste sweeter. It also helps tone down the bitter and sour flavors tannins give to young red wines.

Bitter flavors haven’t been commonplace in cuisine in the United States until recently. In Italy, for example, bitterness is a desirable flavor in food, with ingredients such as radicchio and arugula. Young red wines, especially cabernets, often have a bitter note that comes from the tannins that are present.

If you like bitter notes, nothing needs to be done. But if there is too much bitterness, you can add fat to the pairing to soften the bitterness and bring out the “fruit” in either

Sweetness

Salt

Bitterness

114

FEAST FAVORITES Pairing food and drinks

the wine or the food. Also, using bitter foods such as eggplant or walnuts can balance bitterness in a wine.

Foods with a high level of chile or pepper heat benefit by pairing with a wine that has a bit of residual sugar or sweetness (and so has a lower alcohol content), is very young and is fresh and fruity, with little or no oak aging. Wines of this type have a cooling effect after the onslaught of heat from chiles.

Rich, mouth-filling foods with lots of body are best matched with wines that also have good body or texture. Light, delicate foods would be obliterated by big, oaky, thick wines like barrel-aged and fermented chardonnays and cabernets. Umami is a concept first described by the Japanese and often characterized as savory or “meaty.”

Here’s one last thought: it’s not enough to recommend a specific wine varietal for a pairing. The grape variety is not the final determiner of flavor in a wine. Winemakers are like cooks. They can take a grape and do lots of things to change its flavor profile. That’s why it’s important to taste foods and wines together to find the best pairings.

Pepper

Umami

WINE FAMILIES Too often, we get hung up with trying to understand wine in terms of grape variety, origin or winemaker. These factors do influence a wine’s flavor, but they don’t say anything about how the wine actually tastes!

Here I’ve defined wines according to flavor and appearance. Wouldn’t it be helpful if wineries would use a similar system for their wines? It would make shopping a lot easier among the thousands of offerings available today.

Below each wine family, you’ll find suggestions for pairing with the included recipes; turn to the recipe page for more detail and specific varietal suggestions.

White wines

At the most basic, white wines can be divided into four flavor profiles, or styles: Crisp, clean and light-bodied: Other

descriptors for these wines are refreshing, brisk, racy, zesty and acidic. They are typically pale in color, somewhat lower in alcohol content and have little or no oak aging. Typical aromas/flavors are green apple, pear, lemon, grapefruit, melon, pineapple, citrus blossoms, herbs and minerals. Popular varieties made in this style include sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot blanc, pinot gris (pinot grigio), semillon and semillon blends (in Bordeaux and California with sauvignon blanc, in Australia with chardonnay).

Sparkling wines such as Champagne and prosecco also fall in this category.

Kimchi Bacon Deviled Eggs, page 5 Beet and Butter Bean Hummus, page 6 Spring Pea Toast with Radishes, page 8 Potato Latkes, with or without Citrus-Cured Salmon, page 10 Oysters with Jalapeño Salsa, page 14 Sopa de Lima (Mexican Chicken Soup with Lime), page 36 Kofta with Yogurt Tahini Sauce and Chermoula, page 61 Chicken Piccata, page 62 Grilled Oysters, page 74 Maccabi Bowl, page 78 Grilled Fava Beans, page 81 Asparagus and Goat Cheese Frittata, page 90 Smooth, round and medium-bodied: Other terms used to describe these are silky, fruity, creamy, elegant, ripe and easydrinking. They typically have a more golden color and more alcohol (12% content and higher). They usually have some oak aging.

Typical aromas/flavors are apple (green and sweet), citrus, banana and, with the bit of oak, some toasty, spicy, vanilla, nutty and clove aromas/flavors. Popular varieties made in this style are chardonnay, sauvignon/fume blanc, pinot blanc, pinot gris and, increasingly in California, proprietary blends which can include two or more grapes.

Spring Pea Toast with Radishes, page 8 Salmon Burgers with Green Goddess

Dressing, page 69 Breakfast Salad, page 84 Rich and full-bodied: Terms like creamy, buttery, mouth-filling, ripe, full-fruit, toasty and smoky also are used with these wines.

These are usually deeper in color, from straw to deep gold, and a bit higher still in alcohol content (13 to 14.5%). These almost always see oak both in fermentation and aging, which contributes the toasty/vanilla flavors.

Malolactic fermentation and aging on the lees produce great texture and soften acidity.

Popular varieties made in this style include chardonnay, pinot blanc, some sauvignon blancs, marsanne and roussane. Additionally, many winemakers are creating proprietary blends of grapes which fall in this category.

Shrimp and Noodle Soup with Laksa, page 34 Schweinshaxe (Pork Shank), page 49 Salmon Burger with Green Goddess Dressing, page 69 Seafood Paella, page 72 Aromatic dry/off-dry to sweet: These can be made in either a dry, off-dry (slightly sweet) or very sweet style. Their common, distinguishing characteristic is their pronounced floral and fruit aromas. Their flavors/aromas are likened to apricot, peach, ripe melon, all tropical fruits (mango, passion fruit, litchi), flowers like honeysuckle and gardenia and sweet spices like cinnamon and clove. They vary in color from almost clear to straw and light golden. Generally, the sweeter the wine, the more golden it is. Alcohol levels can be as low as 8% in the sweeter, off-dry whites up to 13% for bone-dry whites. All typically have good acid balances to go along with their rich flavors. Varieties made in this style include rieslings, gewürztraminers, muscats, viognier, chenin blanc, pinot gris and Malvasia Bianca. Sherries, which range from bone-dry to sweet, also fall into this category.

Carrot Hummus with Cumin and Cilantro, page 7 FEAST FAVORITES Pairing food and drinks

115

Creamy Dill Dipping Sauce for Veggie Sticks, page 8 Tomato Jam, page 12 Ceviche Clásico for Home Cooks, page 15 Watermelon and Cucumber Gazpacho, page 27 Winter Kabocha Squash Soup, page 37 Dry-Rubbed Turkey Breast, page 56 Seafood Cau-Cau, page 66 Buttermilk Cinnamon Coffee Cake, page 89

Red Wines

Red wines also can be divided into four styles: Fruity and light-bodied: These also are described as fresh, lively, juicy, clean, straightforward, soft wines. They are usually light, vibrant and translucent red in color, lower in alcohol than other reds and have little or no oak or tannins. Typical aromas/ flavors include cherry, strawberry, raspberry, rose and “soda pop.” Popular varieties made in this style include gamay, pinot noir, grenache, merlot, zinfandel and the whole world of rosé.

Three Cheese Mini Macs with Tomato Jam and Crème Fraîche, page 17 Chili Colorado, page 32 Moroccan-Style Lamb Chops with Mint Chutney and Lemon Couscous, page 55 Dry-Rubbed Turkey Breast, page 56 California Winter Bowls, page 80 Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce (Shakshuka), page 85 Duck Egg Tortilla Espanola, page 87 Smooth and medium-bodied: Other terms used to describe these are round, juicy, balanced and silky. Tannins are moderate here. These wines are usually darker red in color, tending toward ruby and garnet, and a bit higher in alcohol than light-bodied reds (12.5 to 13.5%). Flavors/aromas can be described as blackberry, raspberry, cherry, plum, mint, eucalyptus, coffee, bittersweet chocolate, mushrooms and, because of moderate oak aging, toasty, vanilla and sweet 116

FEAST FAVORITES Pairing food and drinks

spice. Popular varieties in this style include some cabernet, merlot, pinot noir, sangiovese, zinfandel and syrah/shiraz.

Pastas, pages 40, 44-45 Peppercorn-Crusted Steak with Wild Mushroom Fondue, page 50 Master Burger Recipe, page 52 Cioppino, page 65 Rich, hearty and full-bodied: These also are described as big, hearty, meaty, chewy, having intense fruit, complex, tannic and powerful. Typically, they are very deep red in color, often almost black. They have high alcohol content (13.5-15%). Varieties made in this style include cabernet, merlot, syrah/ shiraz, Nebbiolo, zinfandel, petit sirah and hearty proprietary blends.

Beef Barley Mushroom Soup, page 30 Roasted Pork Tenderloin, page 46 Spanish Eggplant Omelet (Tortilla de Berenjenas), page 77 Sweet: This includes ports and Madeiras, which are a blend of varieties and fortified with neutral spirits. The sugar and the added alcohol both give these wines long aging potential.

Beer

Chorizo Zucchini Tacos with Cheese Curds and Hot Sauce, page 12 Beef Barley Mushroom Soup, page 30 Shrimp and Noodle Soup with Laksa, page 34 California Winter Bowls, page 80 Breakfast Salad, page 84

Sake

Interactive Sushi Party, page 70

Cider

Chilled Asparagus Soup with Tarragon Crème Fraîche, page 28 Beef, Chicken or Lamb Kebabs with Marinade, pages 58-59

Chefs who shared favorites Mimo Ahmed is the pastry chef at chef and owner Ari Weiswasser’s Glen Ellen Star in Glen Ellen.

On the side, she shares her passion for baking on her website, The Empty Plate.

John Ash is a culinary instructor and cookbook author who writes regularly for The Press Democrat and hosts “The Good Food Hour” on KSRO radio. He has won two James Beard Foundation Awards and a Julia Child Cookbook of the Year award. He is the creator of John Ash & Co. restaurant.

Chris Ball is chef and owner of Down to Earth Café and Deli in Cotati and Seafood and Eat in Windsor.

Dino Bugica is the chef and owner of Diavola restaurant & pizzeria and the Geyserville Gun Club, Bar & Lounge, both located in Geyserville. Kasey Drady is manager of the Geyserville Gun Club, Bar & Lounge.

Domenica Catelli is a chef and restaurateur of Catelli’s in Geyserville, a third-generation restaurant that she opened with her brother Nicholas in its original location in 2010. She is also a cookbook author and recurring champion of several competitions on Food Network.

Sheana Davis is a cheesemaker, chef and owner of The Epicurean Connection in Sonoma, which provides classes, catering and prepared food in the Sonoma Valley.

Duskie Estes is executive director of Farm to Pantry, a gleaning organization that feeds the hungry. She and her husband, John Stewart, own Black Pig Meat Co. and the Black Piglet food truck.

David Frakes is the estate chef at Lynmar Estate Winery in Sebastopol.

Chefs Johnny and Julia Gnall are co-owners of J Squared Catering in Windsor. Johnny also serves as winery chef at F. Korbel & Bros.

Brandon Guenther is the chef and co-owner, with his wife, Shona Campbell, of Rocker Oysterfellers Kitchen & Saloon in Valley Ford.

Chris Hanna is the president of Hanna Winery, based in Healdsburg and Santa Rosa. Hanna is the author of “The Winemaker Cooks: Menus, Parties and Pairings,” published by Chronicle Books in 2010.

The Hanson family — siblings Chris, Brandon, Alanna and Darren and their parents Judy and Scott — are owners of Hanson of Sonoma Distillery. Their tasting room opened in Sonoma in July 2019.

Liza Hinman is the chef and co-owner of The Spinster Sisters restaurant in Santa Rosa, which opened in 2012.

Perry Hoffman is the executive chef of the Boonville Hotel in Boonville.

Before that, he served as the culinary director at the Healdsburg SHED.

Chad Holmes is the chef and owner of Chad’s Soup Shack and sells his soup, chili and chowder at local farmers markets in Santa Rosa and Petaluma.

Lia Huber of Santa Rosa is the author of “Nourished: A Memoir of Food, Faith and Enduring Love” and the founder of NOURISH Evolution, an online guide that inspires and empowers people to live richer lives through real food.

Michele Anna Jordan is a food columnist for The Press Democrat and the author of 24 cookbooks to date.

Daniel Kedan and his wife, Marianna Gardenhire, are the chefs and owners of Backyard Forestville in Forestville.

Lisa Lavagetto, one of the Food Gurus of Sonoma, teaches culinary classes at the Sonoma Community Center and provides in-home catering and cooking classes. For 23 years, Lavagetto ran the cooking school at Ramekins in Sonoma.

Sam Levy is co-owner of Fern Bar, which opened at The Barlow in Sebastopol in 2018. Matt Katzin is the bar manager at Fern Bar in Sebastopol.

FEAST FAVORITES Chefs

117

Shane McAnelly is the executive chef and director of culinary operations at Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor, which opened in May 2020.

Chef Ryan Ramey and his wife, Samantha, own Estero Café in Valley Ford and Americana restaurant in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square.

Jake Rand is the chef and owner of Sushi Kosho at The Barlow in Sebastopol.

Tracey Shepos Cenami is a cheese expert and chef for La Crema Winery. Before joining the La Crema team, she worked as a chef for Stark Reality Restaurants for eight years.

Casey Stone serves as the pastry chef for Vintners Resort and John Ash & Co. restaurant in Santa Rosa.

118

Barney McGrath is the British-born chef at Muir’s Tea Room & Cafe, a plant-based tea room in Sebastopol.

FEAST FAVORITES Chefs

Bruce Riezenman is the founder and partner of Park Avenue Catering in Cotati.

Josh Silvers and his wife, Regina, opened Jackson’s Bar and Oven in Santa Rosa’s historic Railroad Square in 2009. Before that, the couple owned Syrah Bistro in Santa Rosa for 14 years.

Claudia Sutton of Healdsburg is the author of a cookbook for Airstream and RV owners, “A Moveable Feast: Recipes for Rolling Kitchens.”

Jose Navarro is the owner and executive chef of Sazon Peruvian Restaurant in Santa Rosa.

Ari Rosen is the chef and owner of Campo Fina in Healdsburg.

He and his wife, Dawnelise, opened Scopa restaurant in Healdsburg in 2008.

Chef Matt Spector and his wife, Sonjia, opened Zoftig Eatery in Santa Rosa in 2018. Prior to Zoftig, the Spectors owned JoLe, a fine-dining restaurant in Calistoga.

Marimar Torres, founder and owner of Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery in Sebastopol, has been involved in the wine business all her life.

The Barcelona native has written two cookbooks: “The Spanish Table: The Cuisines and Wines of Spain,” published in 1986; and “The Catalan Country Kitchen,” published in 1992.

Olenka Orjeda promotes the authentic cuisine of her native Peru through Olenka Cooks!, a series of dinners and cooking classes that showcase Peruvian food.

Shari Sarabi is the chef and co-owner with his wife, Lisbeth Holmefjord, of Baci Café & Wine Bar in Healdsburg.

Mark Stark is executive chef and co-owner with his wife, Terri, of seven restaurants in Sonoma County that are part of his Stark Reality Restaurants business.

John Toulze is president and an equity owner of Sondra Bernstein’s the girl & the fig in Sonoma, the fig café & winebar in Glen Ellen and the girl & the fig caters! in Sonoma. He helped develop recipes for “the girl & the fig Cookbook” published in 2004.

Phyllis Pedroncelli, who is married to Jim, president of Pedroncelli Winery, worked at promoting the family business and is now retired. She currently enjoys her role as mother, grandmother and greatgrandmother.

Summer Sebastiani is the owner and chef of Summer’s Market and Deli in Healdsburg. Prior to opening the café in 2014, she worked at various Calistoga restaurants.

Julie Steinfeld, one of the Food Gurus of Sonoma, teaches culinary classes at the Sonoma Community Center and provides in-home catering and cooking classes.

Dustin Valette is the chef and co-owner, with his wife, Johanna, and brother, Aaron, of Valette Healdsburg.

The Sonoma County native is opening The Matheson in Healdsburg in summer 2021.

Justin Wangler is the culinary director at the Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Garden in Santa Rosa.

Index A

Beets

Almonds

Beet and Butter Bean Hummus, 6

Apple-Almond Tart, 94

Apples Apple-Almond Tart, 94 Apple Cranberry Crostata with Cinnamon Topping, 97

Beverages

Bacon Kimchi Bacon Deviled Eggs, 5

Beans Beet and Butter Bean Hummus, 6 Beluga Lentil Salad with Tomatoes, Parsley and Shallots, 19 Grilled Fava Beans, 81

Beef Beef Barley Mushroom Soup, 30 Beef Bone Broth, 31 Chili Colorado, 32 Peppercorn-Crusted Steak with Wild Mushroom Fondue, 50 Master Burger Recipe, 52 Beef Kebabs with Marinade, 58

Pasta with White Clam Sauce, 39

Cocktails See Mocktails Mandarin Greyhound, 104

Buttermilk Cinnamon Coffee Cake, 89

B

Grilled Fruits with Mint Custard Sauce, 98

Clams

Duck Egg Tortilla Española, 87

Asparagus and Goat Cheese Frittata, 90

BLT Pasta, 44

Chorizo Zucchini Tacos with Cheese Curds and Hot Sauce, 12

Breakfast Salad, 84 Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce (Shakshuka), 85

Apple Cranberry Crostata with Cinnamon Topping, 97

Chorizo

Breakfast

Chilled Asparagus Soup with Tarragon Crème Fraîche, 28

Warm Fig and Thyme Crisp, 96

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Red Wine Cherry Compote, 102

See cocktails or mocktails

French Toast, 82

Apple-Almond Tart, 94

Bûche de Noël, 100

Beet dip, Maccabi Bowl, 78

Asparagus

Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Maple Roasted Bacon, 24

Chocolate

Champagne Sabayon, 89

Spicy Margarita Punch, 109

Asparagus and Goat Cheese Frittata, 90

Diavola Spritz, 110

C Carrots Carrot Hummus with Cumin and Cilantro, 7

Kimchi Bacon Deviled Eggs, 5

Chorizo Zucchini Tacos with Cheese Curds and Hot Sauce, 12 3 Cheese Mini Macs with Tomato Jam and Crème Fraîche, 17 Watermelon, Fig and Feta Salad, 21

Chicken Sopa de Lima (Mexican Chicken Soup with Lime), 36 Chicken Kebabs with Marinade 58 Chicken Piccata, 62

Chili Chili Colorado, 32

Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Maple Roasted Bacon, 24 Spanish Eggplant Omelet (Tortilla de Berenjenas), 77

Toasted Orzo Salad with Corn and Tomatoes, 22

Cheese

Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce (Shakshuka), 85

Couscous Moroccan-Style Lamb Chops, Mint Chutney & Lemon Couscous, 55

Duck Egg Tortilla Española, 87 Duck Egg Aioli, 87

Crab

Champagne Sabayon, 89

Cioppino, 65

Cucumber Watermelon and Cucumber Gazpacho, 27

D Desserts Buttermilk Cinnamon Coffee Cake, 89 Fresh Peach Tart, 93

H Hummus

Carrot Hummus with Cumin and Cilantro, 7

Eggs

Corn

Cioppino, 65

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Red Wine Cherry Compote, 102

Baba Ganoush, Maccabi Bowl, 78

Hanson Dirty Martini, 112

Ceviche Clásico for Home Cooks, 15

Beet and Butter Bean Hummus, 6

Spanish Eggplant Omelet (Tortilla de Berenjenas), 77

Harvest Moon Cocktail, 111

Fish

Bûche de Noël, 100

E Eggplant

Strawberry Balsamic Smash Cocktail, 108

Warm Fig and Thyme Crisp, 96

Asparagus and Goat Cheese Frittata, 90

F Farro Farro Tabouleh, Maccabi Bowl, 78

Figs Watermelon, Fig and Feta Salad, 21

K Kimchi Kimchi Bacon Deviled Eggs, 5

L Lamb Moroccan-Style Lamb Chops, Mint Chutney & Lemon Couscous, 55 Lamb Kebabs with Marinade, 58 Kofta with Yogurt Tahini Sauce & Chermoula, 61

Lemons Moroccan-Style Lamb Chops, Mint Chutney & Lemon Couscous, 55

Lentils Beluga Lentil Salad with Tomatoes, Parsley and Shallots, 19

Limes Sopa de Lima (Mexican Chicken Soup with Lime), 36

M Mint Moroccan-Style Lamb Chops, Mint Chutney & Lemon Couscous, 55 FEAST FAVORITES Index

119

Mocktails

Peas

See Cocktails Basil, Cucumber and Mint Spritzer, 106

Spring Pea Toast with Radishes, 8

Pork Roasted Pork Tenderloin, 46

Smoking Rosemary Watermelon Cooler, 107

Schweinshaxe (Pork Shank), 49

Mushrooms Beef Barley Mushroom Soup, 30 Pasta with Pea Shoot Pesto, Prosciutto and Mushrooms, 40 Peppercorn-Crusted Steak with Wild Mushroom Fondue, 50

N Nectarines Tomato & Nectarine Salad, 22

Potato Latkes, 10

Prosciutto Pasta with Pea Shoot Pesto, Prosciutto and Mushrooms, 40

R Radishes Spring Pea Toast with Radishes, 8

Rice

O

Peruvian White Rice, 66

Octopus

Sushi Rice, 70

Seafood Cau-Cau, 66

Orzo Toasted Orzo Salad with Corn and Tomatoes, 22

Oysters Oysters with Jalapeño Salsa, 14 Grilled Oysters, 74

P Paella Seafood Paella, 72

Pasta Pasta with White Clam Sauce, 39 Pasta with Pea Shoot Pesto, Prosciutto and Mushrooms, 40 Ricotta Gnudi, 43 BLT Pasta, 44 Spaghetti Marco Polo, 45

Peaches Fresh Peach Tart, 93 120

Potatoes

FEAST FAVORITES Index

Seafood Paella, 72

S Salad Beluga Lentil Salad with Tomatoes, Parsley and Shallots, 19 Watermelon, Fig and Feta Salad, 21 Toasted Orzo Salad with Corn and Tomatoes, 22 Tomato & Nectarine Salad, 22 Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Maple Roasted Bacon, 24

Salmon Citrus-Cured Salmon, 11 Salmon Burger, 69

Sauces Creamy Dill Dipping Sauce for Veggie Sticks, 8 Pea Shoot Pesto, 41

Red Wine Pan Sauce for Burgers, 52

Beef Barley Mushroom Soup, 30

Tomato & Nectarine Salad, 22

Liquid Saffron, 59

Beef Bone Broth, 31

BLT Pasta, 44

Kofta with Yogurt Tahini Sauce & Chermoula, 61

Shrimp and Noodle Soup with Laksa, 34

Winter Kabocha Squash Soup, 37

Garlic Butter, 75

Mint Custard Sauce, 98

Winter Kabocha Squash Soup, 37 California Winter Bowls, 80

See clams, crab, fish, octopus, oysters, scallops, shellfish, shrimp Cioppino, 65

Watermelon, Fig and Feta Salad, 21

Carrot Hummus with Cumin and Cilantro, 7

Ricotta Gnudi, 43

Potato Latkes, 10

Scallops Shellfish

Oysters with Jalapeño Salsa, 14

Oysters with Jalapeño Salsa, 14

Ceviche Clásico for Home Cooks, 15

Cioppino, 65 Seafood Cau-Cau, 66

Grilled Oysters, 74

Watermelon and Cucumber Gazpacho, 27 Chilled Asparagus Soup with Tarragon Crème Fraîche, 28

Maccabi Bowl, 78 California Winter Bowls, 80 Grilled Fava Beans, 81

W Watermelon Watermelon, Fig and Feta Salad, 21

3 Cheese Mini Macs with Tomato Jam and Crème Fraîche, 17

Seafood Paella, 72

Soup

Spanish Eggplant Omelet (Tortilla de Berenjenas), 77

Chorizo Zucchini Tacos with Cheese Curds and Hot Sauce, 12

Seafood Cau-Cau, 66

Seafood Paella, 72

Vegetarian

Beet and Butter Bean Hummus, 6

Seafood Paella, 72

Interactive Sushi Party, 70

V

Kimchi Bacon Deviled Eggs, 5

Spring Pea Toast with Radishes, 8

Cioppino, 65

Turkey Gravy, 56

Beluga Lentil Salad with Tomatoes, Parsley and Shallots, 19

Seafood Cau-Cau, 66

Shrimp and Noodle Soup with Laksa, 34

Dry-Rubbed Turkey Breast, 56

Starters

Seafood

Shrimp

Turkey

Squash

Meyer lemon vinaigrette, California Winter Bowls, 80 Duck Egg Aioli, 87

Chorizo Zucchini Tacos with Cheese Curds and Hot Sauce, 12

Sopa de Lima (Mexican Chicken Soup with Lime), 36

Green Goddess Dressing, 69

Louisiana Hot Sauce, 75

Tortillas

Watermelon and Cucumber Gazpacho, 27

T

Y

Tomato

Yogurt Kofta with Yogurt Tahini Sauce & Chermoula, 61

Tomato Jam, 12 3 Cheese Mini Macs with Tomato Jam and Crème Fraîche, 17 Beluga Lentil Salad with Tomatoes, Parsley and Shallots, 19 Toasted Orzo Salad with Corn and Tomatoes, 22

Z Zucchini Chorizo Zucchini Tacos with Cheese Curds and Hot Sauce, 12

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