9789198009118

ALSACE

The Guide to Alsace Wines will help you seek out hospitable and skilled wine producers, charming and breathtaking villages and the restaurants preferred by the wine producers themselves. It helps you understand the wines, the traditions and the history of Alsace.

GUIDE TO

In Alsace you will find unmatched serenity, beauty, hospitality and, not the least, some of the world’s best white wines.

GUIDE TO

ALSACE WINES

WINES PER WARFVINGE

9 789198 009118 >

PER WARFVINGE

Preface Guide to Alsace Wines is a travel guide written for those who are planning a trip to Alsace, for those who are there and for those who have just returned home.

The main theme is, of course, the wonderful wines of Alsace. But a wine is not just a beverage; it is also an effective way to approach a local culture, an unfamiliar landscape and different people.

Alsace has fascinated me for decades. The landscape is just so magnificent, the villages are so beautiful and the wines are so good.

If you know something well, it is easier to appreciate it. Therefore my Guide to Alsace Wines contains a lot of facts that I have collected and benefitted from, and that you can put into practice in the proper context.

In this book, I will introduce around sixty wine producers.

These form a selection of the ones that I have visited. I would have liked to write about many more, but at some point I had to put a draw a line. A couple of the great names in Alsace are thus missing, at least in the current edition.

The producers presented have common characteristics. They all put passion into their wines and wineries, they all find joy in their work and they are all proud of what they accomplish. They all have the amazing talent of making visitors feel

like they are a part of a community.

And for me, this is more important than anything else when I am visiting Alsace, or any other wine region.

This guide should be useful for those who visit Alsace for the first time, as well as for those who – like myself – come back year after year.

Shared joy is the only true joy, and through this book, I want to share the joy that a trip to Alsace could bring.

By means of this book I want to be your travelling companion.

Finally, I want to thank everyone who has contributed either significantly or in a small but important way.

And do not forget to say Bonjour!

Per Warfvinge

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Content Essentials Alsace Find your way around Visit a producer

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Alsace wines Types of wines Grapes of Alsace Designations of origin Grand Cru Grand Cru – List Sweet wines Viticulture Harvest Winemaking Organic wines CrÊmant Vintages

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Grapes Riesling

Pinot Blanc & Auxerrois Gewurztraminer

Pinot Gris

Pinot Noir

Sylvaner

Muscat

Klevener de Heiligenstein Chasselas & Chardonnay

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Terroir Geology Terroir wines

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History Up until 1697 Alsace becomes German World War II

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Tips for travellers Biking in Alsace Vignerons indÊpendants La Couronne d’Or Restaurants

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Northern Alsace Map Content Loew Mochel Heckmann Bechthold Pfister Melanie Pfister Schmitt Wolxheim Lissner Vogt Lindenlaub Stoeffler Bruno Schloegel Mittelbergheim Rieffel Rohrer Rietsch Andlau Wach Gresser Beck-Hartweg Florian Beck-Hartweg

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85 Westhoffen .......................................

86 Traenheim .......................................

87 Dahlenheim .......................................

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97 Dorlisheim .......................................

97 Barr .......................................

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102 Mittelbergheim .....................................

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106 Andlau .....................................

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108 Dambach-la-ville .....................................109

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The heart of Alsace Map Content Koeberlé-Kreyer Rolly-Gassmann Spielmann Kientzler Ribeauvillé Sipp, Louis Wymann Sipp, Jean Fuchs Hunawihr Mader Mittnacht Frères Cave Vinicole Eblin-Fuchs Riquewihr Hugel Engel, Frédéric Mittnacht-Klack Agapé Bott-Geyl Barth, Laurent Etienne Hugel

Rodern Rorschwihr Bergheim Ribeauvillé

Ribeauvillé Ribeauvillé Ribeauvillé Ribeauvillé

Hunawihr Hunawihr Hunawihr Zellenberg

Riquewihr Riquewihr Riquewihr Riquewihr Beblenheim Bennwihr

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Central Alsace Map Content Stirn Blanck, Paul Cave Vinicole Simonis Fabien Stirn Ammerschwihr Schaetzel Schoech, Maurice

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137 Sigolsheim .....................................

138 Kientzheim .....................................

139 Kaysersberg-Kientzheim .........................140 Ammerschwihr .....................................

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Binner Ammerschwihr .....................................

148 Katzenthal

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149 Bernhard Katzenthal .....................................

150 Meyer-Fonné Katzenthal .....................................

150 Weinzorn Niedermorschwihr ...................................151 Boxler Niedermorschwihr ...................................153 Frédéric Bernhard .....................................

154 Herzog Turckheim .....................................

157 Zind-Humbrecht Turckheim .....................................

158 Schoenheitz Wihr-au-Val .....................................

160 Josmeyer Wintzenheim .....................................

162 Schoffit Colmar .....................................

163 Barmès Buecher Wettolsheim .....................................

163 Mann Wettolsheim .....................................

164 Dominique Schoenheitz .....................................

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Southern Alsace Map

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168 Content

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169 Eguisheim

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170 Sorg Eguisheim .....................................

171 Ginglinger, Paul Eguisheim .....................................

172 Beyer, Léon Eguisheim .....................................

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175 Beyer, Emile Eguisheim .....................................

176 Kuentz-Bas Husseren-les-Châteaux .........................177 Lipp Husseren-les-Châteaux .........................178 Ginglinger-Fix Voegtlinshoffen .....................................

179 Frick Pfaffenheim .....................................

179 Westhalten & Soulzmatt .....................................

181 Rominger Westhalten .....................................

182 Bursin Westhalten .....................................

183 Braun, Camille Orschwihr .....................................

184 Zusslin Orschwihr .....................................

185 Christophe Braun

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186 Dirler-Cadé Bergholtz .....................................

188 Bon voyage!

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ESSENTIALS ALSACE

Alsace

The basics in 2 minutes Types of wine Alsace offers white wines, sparkling wines and a smaller number of red wines.

The white wines are rich and range from completely dry to very sweet.

The reds are made from Pinot Noir grapes and are usually light and fresh.

White wines from the best vineyards are designated Grand Cru. The sparkling wines are made in the same way as in Champagne.

Alsace wines must be bottled in Alsace, and come in a long sleek bottle. Good dry wines cost between €5 and €25; sweet wines cost at least €15.

Grape varieties The label of white or red wine usually carries the name of the grape variety used to make that wine. The main varieties are Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sylvaner and Muscat.

The grapes give different aromas and flavour to the wines. Wines made from Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner and Muscat are normally dry, while Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris wines have some sweetness. All Alsace wines have enough body and acidity to make them perfect companions for food.

Wine producers and firms Alsace has 860 wine producers and over 4700 growers. Production is split

between family domaines, cooperatives – to whom members deliver grapes – and négociants who purchase wine and sell it under their own label.

Geography Alsace is located in the Rhine valley, between the Vosges mountains on the French side and the German Black Forest. Rainfall is moderate, and it is among the sunniest regions in France.

The wine-growing area is 200 kilometres long, a few kilometres wide and extends in a north-south direction.

Alsace is strikingly beautiful with its medieval villages in a sea of grapevines.

There are over a hundred viticultural villages. The most important villages host Grand Cru vineyards, of which the villagers are very proud.

To visit Alsace The producers have their premises in the villages. Almost all welcome visitors from 9 am to 12 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm. The family domaines are closed Sundays, but the cooperatives are open.

You don’t need to book a visit in advance, unless you come during the harvest in September and October.

In Alsace everyone speaks both French and German and the younger generation increasingly speaks English.

You are not obliged to buy bottles when you are visiting, but you should be very careful not to take advantage of the producers’ generosity.

There are hotels, bed and breakfasts and restaurants in abundance.

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ALSACE WINES WINEMAKING

Winemaking

Microorganisms in charge The rules stipulate that the making of Alsace wines should be “traditional”.

But what is that? Fortunately, not quite the same as 30 years ago!

The winemaking process begins the moment the picker reaches for the mature grape bunch. To protect the important acids and freshness, the grapes must be handled very carefully.

Think about what happens if an apple is dropped: after a minute, the flesh starts to oxidize, and the freshness disappears quickly.

The grapes are often picked in the morning to facilitate cooling of the juice. The bunches are placed in plastic containers that accommodate from 10 to 120 kg of grapes. The containers are transported promptly

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to the winery, where the contents are emptied – with stems and all – in a pneumatic press that can accommod ate at least 2000 kg.

In the old days, the stems were often removed from the grapes before pressing, sometimes causing uncon trolled oxidation before the grapes were even near the fermentation vat.

Pressing – Le pressurage The most modern and widely used press is a cylindrical, pneumatic membrane press. The whole clusters are pressed by an elongated rubber bladder that inflates and presses the grapes against the walls. The juice is discharged through a perforated

ALSACE WINES WINEMAKING

screen along the walls. The press is programmed to follow a sequence of pressure increases and turns.

The juice may be divided into several fractions. The first “free-run” juice leaving the press is discarded by some. It is quite dilute and contains suspended solids that may not be desirable in the fermentation process. Others find them important as carriers of natural yeasts.

The second, and largest, fraction is used for wines of high quality. During this cycle, pressure is increased in stages over two to ten hours. A final increase in pressure provides the last, most simple juice typically used for Edelzwicker.

Maceration means that the grapes are gently crushed, allowing the juice and skins to be in contact, prior to the pressing. This procedure is quite unusual in Alsace. But with Muscat, the winemaker may reinforce its pure grape aromas through maceration that can last up to twelve hours before the actual pressing. However, maceration requires that grey rot is absent.

Clarification – Le bourbage After pressing, the must is cooled down to 4 °C to prevent fermentation from starting. The juice is then allowed to clarify for up to two days. The slower and more gentle the pressing as been, the faster and better the clarification. Next, the juice is pumped to the fermentation vessel.

The different grapes now behave differently. For example, Gewurztraminer juice clarifies poorly and has a high pH which can lead to intense fermentation. By the way, chaptalization – addition of sugar – is not practiced for quality wines in Alsace.

Fermentation – La fermentation The fermentation is carried out in vessels made by stainless steel – inox – or in cylindrical wooden barrels – foudres – which house thousands litres of wine. It proceeds at 12 to 18 °C for at least a month, but may last up to a year. Some control the temperature in detail, some do not. Most producers claim to use only natural yeast, a truth with modifications.

Fermentation at very low temperatures can lead to formation of amylic molecules. These carry flavours such as bubblegum, pear and banana, which are often found in New World Chardonnay wine. If dominant, this type of aroma palette is atypical of good Alsace wines.

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ALSACE WINES WINEMAKING

During fermentation the winemaker makes sure that neither too much nor too little oxygen is available. The ability to impose the right balance between reductive and oxidative conditions separates the talented winemakers from the mediocre ones.

Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles ferment very slowly, as botrytis inhibits the alcoholic fermentation carried out by the yeast cells.

At 14% alcohol, fermentation slows down due to product inhibition.

The fermentation is terminated as the newborn wine is cooled to a few degrees. As the yeast cells’ metabolism stops, they also cease forming the tiny bubbles of carbon dioxide that keep the yeast in suspension. The yeast then settles and the wine clears, after which it is pumped to a clean wooden or stainless steel storage vessel.

Malolactic conversion At malolactic conversion – malo – malic acid is metabolized to lactic acid. Wines that go through malo become softer and more complex, but also lose some freshness. At worst they pick up aromas of butter and yogurt.

In weak years, Rieslings from cold soils may need malo to soften.

Bottling – mis en bouteille For logistic reasons, bottling takes place before the next harvest. But first, the last remnants of yeast are removed and excess dissolved carbon dioxide is reduced. This is done efficiently by filtration through silica gel.

In conjuction with bottling some sulphur is added to stabilize the wine.

Many producers strive to minimize sulphur addition, others make completely sulfur -free wines – sans soufre – with mixed results.

Red wines

At this point some producers add sulphur to inhibit further fermentation.

The wines gain extra complexity if stored in foudres, where the wine stays in contact with a fine-grained deposit of dead yeast cells. This is referred to as élevage sur lies fines.

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Vinification of red is a sequence with subsequent maceration and fermentation, then pressing and finally aging – élevage. During the maceration, the alcoholic produced by the fermentation extracts tannins and coloured anthocyanines from the skins.

After the wine is pressed it is racked and placed in steel tanks or in small, used oak barrels. Alsace red wines are generally too light to match and benefit from new oak barrels.

THE HEART OF ALSACE RIQUEWIHR

Riquewihr

The tourist magnet Riquewihr is one of the most attractive villages in Alsace. The town is surrounded by ramparts from 1291.

Within, you will find adorable, colourful and half-timbered buildings and the narrow alleys, so loved by the visitors, date back to Middle Ages.

Flowers are everywhere.

During harvest, almost 50 000 people come to Riquewihr. They see grapes being carried down into the cellars, which were built in the 1600s after the devastating 30-year war.

Aside from this war, Riquewihr has always been a prosperous city. A group of nobles controlled the city until 1793 when the French Revolution put an end to the feudal system.

At one point it even had its own currency!

Riquewihr builds its fame on Grand Cru Schoenenbourg, which gives the most amazing Riesling one could wish for. Even Voltaire owned vines on the south wall which has Alsace’s most complex geology.

Schoenenbourg has indeed a unique geology with clay, marl, limestone and gypsum beneath a thin gravelly top layer. The soil itself is heavy and cold but the dark gravel absorbs heat and contributes to the perfect ripening conditions. Schoenenbourg has an absolute top position in Alsace, but most producers with land here also own a piece of Grand Cru Sporen.

RIQUEWIHR FROM GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG

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THE HEART OF ALSACE RIQUEWIHR

Sporen is rightly famous for the fabulous smoky and characteristic Gewurztraminer and massive Pinot Gris. The terroir is so special that Riesling from Sporen is more Sporen than Riesling. Most growers also own fine but lesser known land in neighbouring villages such as Mittelwihr.

Riquewihr has a bustling main street, rue Général de Gaulle that draws large crowds of tourists, ready to enjoy the atmosphere. Despite this mass invasion, the atmosphere is relaxed. Riquewihr’s cultural environment deserves its place on UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

In and around the city walls, there are about 30 wine producers. Some are large and export-oriented, others are tiny. The quality is unusually diverse, so be selective when in Riquewihr!

In addition to the producers described below, Dopff au Moulin, Daniel Jung, Dopff & Irion and Trapet all have excellent wines on their lists.

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Hugel

3 Rue de la première armée Riquewihr Hugel is one of the World’s most important wine houses; it defines Alsace in the same way as Mouton Rothschild defines Bordeaux, Torres defines Pénedes and Antinori defines Chianti. In addition they have an open and warm attitude towards both their wines and their customers.

Hugel is a very large winery (by Alsace standards) with a relatively small range of wines sorted into three quality levels: Classic, Estate, Grossi Laüe.

The Classic range is made from grapes procured from long-term contract growers, while the Estate range is made from Hugel’s own vineyards around Riquewihr.

THE HEART OF ALSACE RIQUEWIHR

The wines from purchased grapes, the Classic wines, have gained in quality and character in the recent years, maybe because of increased proportions of grapes from the hillsides.

The jewel of the crown is the Grossi Laüe range, with Gewurztraminer from Grand Cru Sporen, and Riesling from Grand Cru Schoenenbourg. Grossi Laüe means Grand Cru in Alsatian, and maybe Hugel will use the Grand Cru designation in the future.

In April 2015, Hugel launched its first Riesling Schoelhammer, made from a small section of Grand Cru Schoenenbourg. The vintage put on the market was the 2007, and it is yet to be seen if Hugel will produce more wines with vineyard designation in the future. Do not be surprised if Hugel soon launches organic wines.

Hugel owns 25 hectares, and the work is scrupulous. By conscious and long-term work with pruning and compost fertilizer, the vines have become well balanced with naturally limited yields. Marc Hugel oversees the entire production chain, from the grape growing to the finished wine.

The entire region is in debt to the great Jean Hugel who was fully active until his death in 2009. Jean was committed to quality and worked hard to raise the standard in region for the benefit of all of Alsace. His role as an ambassador is now filled by his inexhaustible son, Etienne.

Finally, the official name is now Famille Hugel. A great sign!

Recommendations: Gentil Hugel, Pinot Gris Classic, Riesling Grossi Laüe and Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles.

Etienne, Marc and JeanPhilippe Hugel +33 389 47 92 15 Riesling Classic €12 Riesling Grossi Laüe €48 Grands Crus: Schoenenbourg, Sporen French, German, English www.hugel.com

Engel

36 Rue des remparts Riquewihr The firm Frédéric Engel is a traditional and discrete producer, tucked away in a back alley in Riquewihr, located in modest premises, and highly appreciated by loyal customers.

Approximately 80% of its production is sold to loyal customers, who get very good wines at low prices year after year. Their most luxurious wine, if one can speak of luxury for €11, is obviously Grand Cru Schoenenbourg.

This wine is reliable and exhibits all the qualities one should expect. Engel’s second Grand Cru, Sporen, is very special and has a smoky note that is perfect for big Gewurztra-

Alain and Yvan Engel +33 389 47 83 88 Riesling €6 Riesling Grand Cru €11 Grands Crus: Schoenenbourg, Sporen French, German, English alainengel68@orange.fr

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THE HEART OF ALSACE RIQUEWIHR

miner and Pinot Gris and adds a very special character to Riesling wines.

Engel makes forthright wines that are dry, yet being rich and ripe, with an accurate grape varietal character.

Malolactic conversion is avoided, and the wines have a freshness that works well on the table. Here, you will never be disappointed.

Recommendations: Muscat, Pinot Gris Réserve Personnelle, Riesling Grands Crus Sporen and Schoenenbourg and Pinot Noir.

Mittnacht-Klack 8 Rue des Tuileries Riquewihr

One could only wish that all wine producers had such a set of vineyards as Mittnacht-Klack. Their plots sit high on the foothills, extending throughout five municipalities, from Kientzheim to Ribeauvillé. Clos Saint Ulrich is an extremely steep vineyard

GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG

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in the valley inside Ribeauvillé. This bedrock gives the wines a pronounced saltiness. The characterful Muscat comes from lieu-dit Kronenburg, which is a continuation of Schoenenbourg, eastward into Zellenberg.

Mittnacht-Klack makes frank, somewhat bushy wines with a generous fruit. Reception is friendly, and there are several vintages for sale.

Recommendations: Muscat Cuvée Emma, Pinot Gris Clos St Ulrich and Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker.

Franck Mittnacht +33 389 47 92 54 Riesling Tradition €6.70 Riesling Grand Cru €13.90 Grands Crus: Rosacker, Schoenenbourg, Sporen Lieux-dits: Kronenburg, Muhlforst, Oberberg, Rosenbourg, Clos Saint Ulrich French, German, English www.mittnacht.fr Offers lodging

THE HEART OF ALSACE RIQUEWIHR BEBLENHEIM

Agapé

10 Rue des Tuileries Riquewihr The firm Agapé is located in the southern outskirts of Riqueiwhr.

Here, Vincent Sipp makes excellent wines, receives visitors with great kindness and care and sells his technically perfect wines at very realistic price. What more could you ask for?

Agapé was established in 2007, when Vincent Sipp left a previous, long-standing and successful partnership in Hunawihr.

The product line consists of five ranges. The entry range is Expression, which includes seven varietal wines: Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, etcetera. All wines are dry. For example, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer always have less than 10 grams of sugar, which is very moderate.

The most prestigious wines are, of course, the firm’s different Grands Crus: Osterberg in Ribeauvillé, Rosacker in Hunawihr and Schoenenbourg in Riquewihr.

Geologically, these brilliant vineyards are very different and in the case of Riesling wines, Vincent Sipp expresses the terroir character perfectly. But perhaps the more exciting thing about Vincent Sipp is that he makes Pinot Gris from Grand Cru Osterberg and – even rarer – Gewurztraminer from Grand Cru Schoenenbourg. Exciting!

Recommendations: Expression Sylvaner, Pinot Gris and Riesling, Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg, and Pinot Gris Grand Cru Osterberg.

Vincent Sipp +33 389 47 94 23 Riesling Expression €9.80 Riesling Grand Cru €18.40-21.20 Grands Crus: Osterberg, Rosacker, Schoenenbourg French, German, English www.alsace-agape.fr Offers lodging

Bott-Geyl 1 Rue du petit château Beblenheim Beblenheim is a remote village, and although it is less than a kilometre away from the D1, which constitutes the Route des Vins, it is a bit overlooked. During World War II, the neighbouring Mittelwihr was completely destroyed and in Beblenheim, 90% of the houses were damaged.

The village has narrow, charming streets and typical half-timbered houses from the Renaissance, and just eleven producers. But the bright, shining star is Bott-Geyl, and what a star!

Bott-Geyl was founded in 1953 and has been led by Jean-Christophe Bott since 1993. He was only 25 years old when he took over, after having worked in the New World and in Bourgogne. Under the influence of his mentor, Leonard Humbrecht, he was certified for organic and biodynamic production in the early 2000s.

The firm owns 14 hectares divided into 75 plots in 7 municipalities. BottGeyl makes wines with clean, fruity and open aromas and well over

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THE HEART OF ALSACE BEBLENHEIM BENNWIHR

Jean-Cristophe Bott and Valerie Bott-Cartier +33 389 47 90 04 Riesling Les Élements €12 Riesling Grand Cru €23-27 Grands Crus: Furstentum, Mandelberg, Schlossberg, Schoenenbourg, Sonnenglanz, Sporen Lieux-dits: Burgreben, Grafenreben, Kronenbourg, Schloesselreben French, German, English www.bott-geyl.com Biodynamic, AB medium-bodied taste. Previously the wines were more obviously fruit-driven, but today they are second to none in terms of precision and focus.

Two wines you cannot overlook is Bott-Geyl’s legendary Gewurztraminer from Beblenheim’s Grand Cru Sonnenglanz, and the lively Pinot Gris Grand Cru Furstentum. Among Rieslings, Grand Cru Schoenenbourg is of superior quality, and the recent acquisition Grand Cru Schlossberg, first produced in 2008, is excellent.

Bott-Geyl has grouped their wines into four levels; the Jules Geyl range is partly from purchased grapes, the “fruity” range is called Les Éléments, then we have the lieux-dits, while the Grands Crus make up the top segment. It is worth noticing that the differences between the latter levels are quite small, because all the wines are so extremely well made.

Bott-Geyl also has two very affordable wines from blends of grapes: the crispy Gentil d’Alsace Métiss and the

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more full-bodied Pinot d’Alsace Métiss, made with all the admissible grapes from the Pinot family. Métiss means that the wine is a blend, or – in a figurative sense – of mixed breed.

Bott-Geyl is a striking example of how the tradition and progressive ideas can be united in today’s Alsace.

Recommendations: Pinot d’Alsace Métiss,Gewurztraminer Les Élements, Riesling Grands Crus Schlossberg and Schoenenbourg, Pinot Noir Galets Oligocènes.

Barth, Laurent

3 Rue de maréchal de Lattre Bennwihr In 1999, Laurent Barth began to build his minute, biodynamic and highly respected domaine. Back then, the young Laurent had already been working for twelve years in France, South Africa, USA, Australia and – surprisingly – India. Take a close look at the label and you will get the clue!

When he returned, it was time to take over the cultivation of the barely 4 hectares of vineyards that the family owned. Until 2003, he sold the whole production via the large cooperative across the street. As the delivery requirements decreased, Laurent could develop his own production, and he is now highly recognized by the press and by consumers.

Despite the positive publicity and the minimal productions, the prices are modest in relation to the quality and the high demand.

THE HEART OF ALSACE BENNWIHR

His vineyard area has increased slowly. He has now purchased a small plot of Grand Cru Schlossberg, now re-planted with Riesling with very high density, 11 000 vines per hectare.

The core of the vineyard, though, is Grand Cru Marckrain, an Oligocene terroir with cool clay that gives very lively wines. It has recently had a renaissance thanks to a handful of young growers such as Barth.

Laurent Barth has impressively managed to create an excellent collection of sound and dry wines with true terroir character and personality. The quality is remarkably even, and there is a thought, a creative idea, behind

Laurent Barth +33 389 49 01 29 Riesling €9 Grand Cru €20 Grands Crus: Marckrain, Schlossberg French, German, English laurent.barth@wanadoo.fr Organic, AB each wine that make them go straight into your heart!

Recommendations: Muscat, Riesling Granit, Gewurztraminer Clos des 3 Chemins and Grand Cru Marckrain, and the different Pinot Noir.

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SOUTHERN ALSACE EGUISHEIM

Eguisheim

Quality and diversity Eguisheim is one of the most beautiful villages in Alsace. Despite the proximity to Colmar, it is like coming to the forecourt of Paradise when you enter the town on your bike a summer day. Eguisheim is lively, genuine and there are flowers everywhere.

In France, a ministry (France has many) assesses towns and villages according on how flower-decked they are. A community that wins an award – one to four flowers – can call itself Ville Fleurie. Eguisheim is rewarded year after year with four flowers and it really is a well-deserved prize, since everyone in the villages contributes.

Some 20 000 years ago, CroMagnon men lived in this fertile cor-

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ner of the world, and remains have recently been found in Eguisheim.

The village itself is very old, as it is mentioned around 720 A.D as Agaisheim. A nobleman from the village, Bruno, served as Pope Leo IX from 1049 to 1054. The village has a medieval structure with narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses, forming concentric circles around the square.

The orientation board in Eguisheim advertises Berceau du vin d’Al sace – the cradle of Alsace wines – which is a very appropriate epithet.

The village hosts more than thirty winegrowers and conceals many skilled producers behind the façades.

SOUTHERN ALSACE EGUISHEIM

The average quality of the wines is unusually high in Eguisheim. Perhaps it is because Eguisheim has a very high proportion of Grand Cru, of which Eichberg covers 58 hectares and Pfersigberg 75 hectares. With a total of 354 hectares of vineyards in the village, the Grands Crus cover over 35% of the area, despite the fact that they are partly shared with Husseren-les-Châteaux, a village located 100 metres above Eguisheim.

Besides the producers below, I recommend Charles Baur, Paul Gaschy, Pierre-Henri Ginglinger, Odile Weber and Hebinger.

Sorg

9 Rue monseigneur Stumpf Eguisheim After at least fifteen visits to Bruno Sorg, I have become more and more impressed by the wines that François Sorg creates in the spirit of his late father Bruno.

The philosophy behind Sorg’s wines is simple: the grapes are harvested at 100% of the wine’s maximum potential quality. Thereafter, the winemaker may only lose qualities, not add new ones.

Therefore, the aim should be to cultivate perfect grapes and then avoid messing things up in the cellar.

Sorg’s wines are made with rigour and definition. The grapes are harvested ripe, with

François and Régine Sorg +33 389 41 80 85 Riesling €7.50 Riesling Grand Cru €12.50–14.50 Grands Crus: Eichberg, Florimont, Pfersigberg French, German www.domaine-bruno-sorg.com Erbjuder boende minimal amounts of malic acid but with lots of lovely tartaric acid.

Bruno Sorg grows Riesling on two Grands Crus, Pfersigberg and Florimont. Both terroirs are very calcareous but they have different kinds of bedrock and microclimates. Riesling from Florimont is strikingly elegant and austere with obvious citrus aromas. Pfersigberg is warmer and located on hard Muschelkalk. The latter wines are fuller and richer, and develop an amazing minerality after five to seven years.

Sorg’s legendary Grand Cru Pfersigberg Muscat d’Alsace is made from

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20% Muscat à Petits Grains and 80% Muscat Ottonel. It is powerful but light as a feather, complex but well defined. Wine writer Tom Stevenson believes it is the best Muscat made in Alsace. Who can argue against that?

Sorg also makes an excellent Crémant, made of 50% Chardonnay and increasing amounts of Pinot Noir.

Three years of aging sur lattes give body, complexity and a delicate mousse. Try also the Pinot Gris Grand Cru Pfersigberg, a full-bodied wine that François has started to make in a quite dry style.

The prices are very attractive, considering the quality.

Recommendations: Crémant, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes and Grand Cru Pfersigberg, Riesling Grand Cru Florimont and Pfersigberg, and Muscat Grand Cru Pfersigberg.

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Ginglinger, Paul 8 Place Charles de Gaulle Eguisheim

Paul Ginglinger, which dates back to 1610, is a typical and classical Alsace domaine. The firm has a long history from the days when the entire region was poor and the French king financed armies of mercenaries who were allowed to freely pillage the area.

This is a family business that has been led by Michel Ginglinger since 2000.

Michel belongs to a well-educated generation of winemakers and has gained experience on three continents.

He took his degree in Reims, in the heart of Champagne.

Ginglinger has a relatively short list of wines, barely twenty. The proportion of entry-level wines is small, simply because Eguisheim has its vineyards on the foothills that provide nothing but high-quality wines. The superb entry-level Riesling Drei Exa is proof of that!

Ginglinger makes both Riesling and Gewurztraminer from the two excellent Grands Crus Eichberg and Pfersigberg, and a Pinot Gris Grand Cru Eichberg.

Eichberg consists of two parts.

The historic and best is Eich, where oak used to grow. The other is Bodenacker. Eichberg is mostly associated with Gewurztraminer, but is also the origin of Ginglingers massive Pinot Noir Les Rocailles. On Bodenacker, Ginglinger grows

HJÄRTAT AV ALSACE RIBEAUVILLÈ

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