Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Ljubljana April - May 2014
Taste cuisine from Slovenia’s best restaurants every Friday in the old town at the Open Kitchen
Spring in Ljubljana inyourpocket.com N°35 - € 2.90
It’s the season for relaxing at sidewalk cafés, strolling in parks and riding bikes everywhere
Argentino / Ĺ martinska 152 (BTC) / 1000 Ljubljana / Slovenija
Typical style of an Argentinian hacienda. Always fresh meat, best quality beef from Argentina. Indulge yourself with our grilled specialities. Old Argentinian recipes, on typical grills imported from Argentina. Wine Cellar with over 130 Argentinian Wines
www.argentino.si / mobile: +386 31 600 900
Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S
Arrival & Transport 8 The Basics 9 Statistics, politics and where to find the loo
Culture & Events Music, festivals and exhibitions Cultural centres and venues
12 12 18
Where to eat 20 Everything from A to V(egetarian)
Cafés 40 Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes
Nightlife 46 Dance and drink the night away
What to see 46 Bridges, museums and the castle
Emona 51 Ljubljana turns 2000 (sort of)
With little pollution, virtually no crime, excellent schools, numerous cultural events and plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities, Ljubljana is an ideal place for families. See our Embassies & Expat feature on page 68 for more info about living in Slovenia, photo by Urša Culiberg
Shopping 56 Where to go and what to buy
Where to stay 18 Business suites to hostel bunks
Embassies & Expats 68 A special feature for foreign residents
Golf & Outdoor 71 Slovenia is a true outdoor paradise
Around Ljubljana - West 76 Visit the ‘Green Gateway to the Capital’
Postojna 76 Home of the world famous cave
Directory Dining outside becomes one of Ljubljana’s most popular pastimes during the spring - find the Vander Urbani restaurant (pictured here) down a small alleyway off of Mestni Trg in the old town, photo by Urša Culiberg
Maps & Index City map Country map
80 80 82 April - May 2014
In the News
There’s truly never a bad time to visit Ljubljana, as it’s indisputably one of the most beautiful, quaint and clean capitals in Europe (or the world for that matter). The peak summer months bring lots of sunshine, in autumn mother nature decorates the city in vibrant colours and the streets (quite literally) flow with wine, while in the winter there’s an unparalleled air of festivities and holiday cheer. However, when it comes to the seasons, the first among equals has to be spring. Flowers are in bloom, the days get longer, the weather gets warmer, outdoor cafés are buzzing and cool events of all types begin taking place on an almost daily basis. No matter which genre is your favourite, from classical to punk and everything in between, you’ll likely find a concert to suit your tastes if you’re visiting Ljubljana this April or May. Meanwhile, fans of art and culture will want to circle 18 May on their calendars once again, as International Museum Day means virtually all of the city’s cultural institutions offer free admission. And gourmands, or just those who appreciate a good burger, are obligated to spend their Fridays in Pogačarjev Trg at Odprta Kuhna (the ‘Open Kitchen’) to sample cuisine from around Slovenia and the world. This issue, we’ve also packed in several extra features, including Embassies & Expats, Golf & Outdoor and Around Ljubljana - the latter will become a regular addition to our guides and focus on a different area near the capital. And last but not least, in this issue we’ve also expanded our Where to Eat section, including the results of our Best Restaurants poll (20-21), which was decided entirely by the votes of our readers, and a diverse listing of 100 restaurants in the city that are all worth checking out (38-39). As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.
Bitstamp Bitcoin Exchange Publisher E S S E N TI A L Ljubljana In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 firstname.lastname@example.org, www.inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc., email@example.com ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o. Printed Evrografis d.o.o. Published Published six times per year Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writer Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, Craig Turp, Richard Schofield, James Cosier, John Bills Design Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photography Ljubljana Tourism, Branka Jovanović, Dunja Wedam, Tadej Mulej, Urša Culiberg Cover photo © Jaka Birsa, courtesy of Odprta Kuhna Sales & Circulation Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina, Leon Šlajpah, Mateja Draksler Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). Maps Monolit d.o.o.
NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND
BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM
GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA
SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO
FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE
6 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
THe new in your pocket About IYP
If you’ve paid any attention to the world of finance over the past year or two, you’ve surely heard about the so-called ‘cryptocurrency’ Bitcoin, which is mined by (super)computers and can be used to make purchases both online and offline the same as cash, ie anonymously and without a financial institution acting as a middleman. In February 2014, the world’s largest and most established Bitcoin exchange, the Tokyo-based Mt Gox, collapsed after an estimated $450 million worth of Bitcoins went missing. So what does a speculative digital currency and a virtual heist in Japan have to do with Ljubljana? After Mt Gox went bust, the world’s new leading Bitcoin exchange became the Slovenian company Bitstamp, which was founded by Damijan Merlak and Nejc Kodrič back in 2011 in Kranj, some 20km north of Ljubljana. The pair and their now UK-based company recently made headlines around the world in March after receiving a $10 million investment from a US hedge fund. If you’re one of the growing number of technophiles who have already hopped on the Bitcoin bandwagon, there is at least one venue in Ljubljana that currently accepts them for payment: the restaurant Allegria on Nazorjeva Ulica.
All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy
It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, wellwritten and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, we have taken on board hundreds of comments we have received over the past few years to come up with a new format for our guides to make them more dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while still ensuring that we point your way to all of those quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope that the changes are met with approval by all our readers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be they good or bad or indifferent. Only by listening to our readers can we make In Your Pocket even better. Send your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email address firstname.lastname@example.org, and follow us on both Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) to keep up with all the latest developments at In Your Pocket. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides slovenia.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014
Arriving & Getting Around Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier. With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.
Arriving & Getting Around A Word From Our Mayor
Arriving in Ljubljana Arriving by plane Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule. Arriving by train Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and made it to the main train station building, find everything you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located next door. Getting to town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the meter is running before you depart. Arriving by bus All national and international buses arrive at the central bus station which is located directly in front of the main train station. The ‘temporary’ prefabricated station building features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only other
Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive www.dars.si. Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yehtah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks. Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are €110/30/15 for cars, €220/80/40 for larger vehicles (ie with a height of over 1.3m above the front axis) and €55/30/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si. 8 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Public Transport Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. Schedules are displayed at all stops, and fares can only be paid using an Urbana Card or a Slovene mobile phone.
For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world – unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia. As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth.
LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet) Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station.QD-2, Slovenska 56, tel. +386 (0)14 30 51 74, email@example.com, www.lpp.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Welcome to Ljubljana!
Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admirable job of running an efficient network with clean modern trains that are usually on time. Their website (www.slozeleznice.si) contains a wealth of information in English, including live information on train delays as well as an online timetable. See the national and international train schedules in this guide for the main destinations.
Zoran Janković Mayor
useful facility being a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to town is the same as described above. Arriving by car Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone. GoOpti This new low cost airport shuttle service offers transfers to and from airports in neighbouring countries. Departures can be booked between Ljubljana to nearly 20 airports in the region, including Venice, Munich and Vienna, using GoOpti’s novel online booking system. Rates begin at as little as €9 per person.Qtel. +386 (0)1 320 45 30, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.goopti.com.
Train Station (Železniška Postaja) Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station is
Urbana Card The city bus operator, LPP, has finally introduced the long-awaited Urbana Card, a form of electronic ticketing that will eventually replace the previous hodge-podge system of payment that included tokens, coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart card is similar to those already used in other cities, such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many locations including various tobacconists and news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these same locations as well as some three dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around town. When getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card readers at the front entrance and €1.20 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
hertz car rental One of the most known and trusted names in car rentals has a total of eight locations across Slovenia, including an office in the centre of Ljubljana within easy walking distance of most hotels, as well as at the airports in Ljubljana and Portorož. They also conveniently offer free delivery and collection service within 20km of any office during working hours. Their large fleet of new cars has everything from the incredibly fuel-efficient Volkswagen Up! to larger vans and luxury models - there are even some with automatic transmissions for Americans.QD-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 434 01 47, email@example.com, www.hertz. si. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Save 10% on your next booking with the discount code HTZIYP
just north of the main action. See Arriving for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with signs and departure screens in English.QE-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. +386 (0)1291 33 32, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.slozeleznice.si. Open 05:00 - 22:00. Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) QKolodvorska 11, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 29 13 332, email@example.com, www.slo-zeleznice.si.
Buses Dozens of regular bus connections are available to efficiently whisk you to all corners of the country. See also the national and international bus schedules in this guide. Ljubljana Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always check in the bus station to make sure. The bus station operates many national routes as well as regular international services.QD/E1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 00, fax +386 (0)1 234 46 01, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.ap-ljubljana.si. Open 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.
Car Rental The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triApril - May 2014
Arriving & Getting Around angle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%, and EU residents should be aware that any fines and/or driving license points incurred whilst in Slovenia will theoretically follow you home. The traffic information centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.si. Budget Rental price higher without prior reservation online.QD-3, Miklošičeva 3 (Grand Hotel Union Executive), tel. +386 (0)14 21 73 40, email@example.com, www. budget.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00 Airport office tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00.
Airport Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:0012:00, Sun closed). Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.QZgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.lju-airport.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Taxis Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting usually costs €1520 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips. Laguna TaxiQJ-1, Celovška 228, tel. +386 (0)31 492 299/+386 (0)1 511 23 14, fax +386 (0)1 511 23 14, taxi. email@example.com, www.taxi-laguna.com.
SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted B Outside seating
H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant
J Old town location
C Swimming pool
10 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
City Basics Metro Taxi QM-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. +386 (0)80 11 90/+386 (0)4 124 02 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. metroprevozi.net/TaxiPrevozi.htm. Taxi Rondo With nearly two decades in the transportation business, the friendly folks at Rondo know what it takes to please demanding foreign clients. Their large fleet of mid-range and high-end vehicles (Audi, BMW, Mercedes) guarantees a quick response time, while the fixed tariff of €0.75/km is also one of the lowest in the city. Additional services include school transport, longer-term rentals, courier delivery and free return trips on longer journeys.Qtel. +386 (0)70 900 900/+386 (0)31 225 588, email@example.com, www.taxi-rondo.si.
Parking Garages PH Kapitelj Located along the Ljubljanica River beneath the modern Kapitelj and Urban Villa complex, which houses both shops, offices, residences and two embassies, the garage is only 100m or so from the famous Dragon Bridge and Tržnica market. While there are only 261 spaces, you can normally find a free one.QE-3, Poljanski nasip 4, tel. +386 (0)1 360 36 48/+386 (0)51 366 510, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.parkiraj. si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. PH Meksiko Only opened in 2010, the Mexico Parking Garage is a large modern facility situated adjacent to the Slovenia’s main medical facilities and just down the street from the central bus and railway stations. There are a total of 624 spaces, and the ground floor is home to a popular German supermarket.QF-2, Njegošova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 38/+386 (0)51 366 510, phmeksiko@kranjska-id. com, www.parkiraj.si.Open 00:00 - 24:00. PH Šentpeter Situated near the University of Ljubljana Medical Centre at the intersection of Zaloška and Njegoševa Streets, Šentpeter Parking House boasts some 500 parking spaces.QF-3, Zaloška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 430 59 02/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, phsentpeter@kranjska-id. com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. PH Trdinova Located in the very centre of the city, only a short walk from the Ljubljana Stock Exchange, main courthouse and various corporate head offices, the Trdinova Parking House has near 1200 spaces.QD2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 230 96 00/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, email@example.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150.
Much more transportation info online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Climate Temperature, °C
F M A M J
S O N D
Crime and safety Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which is unlikely to affect short term visitors. Nowhere in the city is unsafe to walk at at any hour, although if you’re by yourself it’s probably best to avoid certain parts of Tivoli Park in the middle of the night. The only real threat to safety in the city comes from out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers not paying attention to pedestrians. Perhaps a secondary menace are slow-to-react automatic doors that seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana - causing hurried consumers much grief and the rare minor injury.
Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.
Money Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros,
basic data Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m. Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.
Politics The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The president, Borut Pahor, was elected in Decmber 2012, after previously serving as prime minister until early elections were called in December 2011, which brought the rather divisive former prime minister Janez Janša and his conservative party back to power. However, the new old government lasted just over one year, as months of large street protests led to its collapse in March 2013, and the formation of a new coalition under Slovenia’s first female prime minister, Alenka Bratušek. Only time will tell how long this government lasts though, as these days optimism is in perhaps historically short supply.
Smoking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.
Toilets Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at Dragon Bridge (07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway west of Zvezda Park (07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at Triple Bridge (07:00 - 21:00).
Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 1.35 US$ = 0.84 UK£ = 1.22 CHF = 8.28 CNY = 132 ¥ = 115 дин = 50.5 руб (19 March 2014)
Market Values Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices: Product Price McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40 Slice of pizza € 1.80 Slice of burek € 2.00 Cup of coffee € 1.10 Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50 Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50 Bottle of local beer in a shop € 1.10 Pint of beer in a pub € 2.70 Pack of cigarettes € 3.20 Single bus ride € 1.20 Movie ticket € 4.90 Litre of petrol € 1.49 Taxi ride across town € 5.00 April - May 2014
Culture & Events
Culture & Events Photo by Luka Dekleva
events in April 1 - Blood Red Shoes @ Kino Šiška
4 - Amon Amarth (metal) @ Kino Šiška
1 - Justin Beiber & Friends @ Ljubljana Castle
6 - Bureau of Atomic Tourism (jazz) @ Cankarjev Dom
2-28 - Orto Fest (rock) @ Orto Bar 2 - Múm (electro pop) @ Kino Šiška
7-10 - Craft & Small Busines Fair @ Ljubljana Exhibition Centre
2 - Elvis Jackson @ Orto Bar
7 - Orquestra de Cadaqués @ Cankarjev Dom
3 - She Two Times (cabaret) @ Škuc Theatre
10 - Path of Remembrance Run Around Ljubljana
3 - Klash Bash (electro) @ Gala Hala
10 - Castle Dance @ Ljubljana Castle
4 - Chrysanthemum on the Piano @ Mladinsko Theatre
11 - Caetano Veloso (Brazil) @ Cankejev Dom
5 - Eightbomb (rockabilly) @ Orto Bar 8 - God is an Astronaut @ Kino Šiška 9-16 - Don Quixote (ballet) @ Ljubljana Opera 9 - Sell Out (ska) @ Orto Bar 10 - The Notwist (electro) @ Channel Zero 10 - Mia Žnidarič & Primož Grašič (jazz) @ Ljubljana Castle
Festivals 23.05 Friday - 30.03 Sunday Overflight: 8th Ljubljana Theatre Festival The first Overflight Festival was organised in 2007 by Mladinsko Theatre, and was conceived of as an overview of the performances of the theatre. In 2014, Glej Theatre is also part of Overflight Festival for the third time, representing the independent theatre scene in Slovenia. Glej and Mladinsko Theatre have always shared similar understand12 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
14 - Improvision 2014 @ Cankejev Dom 14 - Thierry Escaich @ Cankarjev Dom 15 - RTV Slovenia Orchestra @ Cankarjev Dom 15 - Nils Petter Malvaer @ Kino Šiška 16-17 - Salsa Flower Power @ Buba & Bolero Dance Schools 16 - Laibach @ Kino Šiška 17 - France Marolt Folklore Group @ Cankarjev Dom
11 - Jinx (pop) @ Cvetličarna
18-20 - Artistic Gymnastics World Cup @ Hala Tivoli
12 - Countryside in the City @ Tržnica Ljubljana
18 - Neofonia II @ Cankarjev Dom
ing of art and its role in the society, so it’s natural for the two institutions to show their productions side by side. The 8th edition of the festival has been organised in close collaboration with the Municipality of Ljubljana, and will present 15 different performances. Since the Overflight Festival is one of the few theatre festivals focusing on foreign audiences, all pieces will be translated or surtitled into English. Visitors will also enjoy in diverse accompanying programme.QGlej & Mladinsko Theatres, tel. +386 (0)1 3004 900, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.gle
12 - Pekarna Mišmaš @ Mladinsko Theatre
18 - International Museum Day @ Various venues
13 - Terrafolk (world) @ National Drama
20 - Belcea String Quartet @ Slovenian Philharmonic
13 - Heidi (Japan) @ Orto Bar
22-30 - Barber of Seville @ Ljubljana Opera
14-18 - Slovenian Book Days @ Kongresni Trg
23-30 - Overflight Theatre Festival @ Various Venues
15 - Bassekou Koutate (world) @ Cankarjev Dom
27 - Midsummer Night’s Dream (ballet) @ Cankarjev Dom
17 - Nightingale of Gorenjska @ Ljubljana Opera
08.05 Thursday - 10.05 Saturday Path of Remembrance Recreational Run Following the 35km route of a razor wire fence constructed around Ljubljana by occupying forces 1942, the annual recreational run commemorates those who died and suffered during this turbulent time in Slovene (and European) history. For those not up for running 35km at six in the morning on a Saturday, there is also a threesome run of 28km and 12km that begins from Mestni Trg between 9:00-9:30. The path itself, which serves a unique cultural monument, is always open to the public and worth exploring on your own.Qtel. +386 (0)1 234 80 00, info@ timingljubljana.si, www.pohod.si. Open 06:00. Free admission.
17 - Nu Rock Fest @ Gala Hala
Some of this spring’s musical highlights include (clockwise from top left): Ethiopian jazz legend Mulatu Astatke, Slovenian avant-garde rockers Laibach, the Gypsy punk band from NYC’s lower east side Gogol Bordello, and the electronic Icelandic band múm.
08.04 Tuesday God is an Astronaut This instrumental/post-rock band - hailing from the majestic green hills of County Wicklow, Ireland - has become increasingly popular in recent years, and is now frequently mentioned alongside Sigur Ros, Explosions in the Sky and other top acts of the genre. They are returning to Slovenia to perform for the third time in four years at Kino Šiška, where the state-of-the-art lighting and sound system makes the band’s carefully orchestrated audio visual performance an impressive spectacle to behold.QKino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 110, www.kinosiska.si. Tickets €16, €12.80 (discount), €18 (walk-up).
11 - Dawn of Midi (acoustic) @ Kino Šiška
11-13 - All That Swing Festival @ Various Venues
Photo by Carlos Delgado
events in may
15 - Vasko Atanasovski @ Ljubljana Castle 15 - Neofonia I @ Slovenian Philharmonic
30-31 - Druga Godba Festival @ Various Venues 30 - Mulatu Astatke @ Kino Šiška 30 - Bombino (world) @ Kino Šiška
19 - Bitch Boys (surf rock) @ Orto Bar
31 - Magnifico & The Serbian Army Orchestra @ Križanke
20 - Fair Art Fair @ Tržnica Ljubljana
3 June - Gogol Bordello @ Cvetličarna
23 - Ljubljana Music Academy Orchestra @ Cankarjev Dom
3 June - La Vie en Rose 2014 @ Cankarjev Dom
23-26 - Sleeping Beauty (ballet) @ Ljubljana Opera
4 June - Duo Claripiano @ Slovenian Philharmonic
24 - The Skatalites @ Gala Hala
5 June - Vladimir Fedoseyev (conductor) @ Slovenian Philharmonic
27 - Alp Devils v Zagreb (US football) @ Stanežiče
5 June - Znanstival Science Fair @ Ljubljana Old Town
27 - Slovenian Octet @ Slovenian Philharmonic
6 June - Franja Cycling Marathon @ BTC City
April - May 2014
Culture & Events easter in ljubljana
Try traditional Slovenian potica cake at Easter time, Slovenian Tourist Organisation
EXHIBITIONS IN APRIL/MAY until 16 Apr - Articulation Artistica International @ Alkatraz Gallery until 17 Apr - Micevski & Petrović: Dialogue with Photography @ Photon 2-18 Apr - Pablo Garcia: Adventures in Virtuality @ Aksioma Gallery until 20 Apr - The Wheel: 5200 Years @ City Museum of Ljubljana until 20 Apr - Contemporary Slovenian Painting @ Cankarjev Dom until 27 Apr - Tarkovsky’s Nostalgia @ Tivoli Park (open air) until 30 Apr - Overseas Combatants @ Contemporary History Museum until 4 May - Janez Janša: Life II @ Intl Centre of Graphic Arts until 4 May - Nancy Spero: The Body @ Intl Centre of Graphic Arts until 15 May - Gabrijel Stupica: A Retrospective @ Museum of Modern Art until 9 Jun - The Present & Presence @ Museum of Contemporary Art until 21 Jun - The Made in China Project @ Intl Centre of Graphic Arts 14 May - 25 Aug - Brain: The Inside Story @ Ljubljana Exhibition Centre 20 May - 3 Sept - Josef Koudelka: The Journey’s End @ Jakopič Gallery 21 May - 26 Oct - Aquae Iasae (archeology) @ Cankarjev Dom until 1 Nov - Doors: Spatial & Symbolic Passageways @ Slovene Ethnographic 14 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Although your average Slovene is not exactly a devout adherent to Catholicism, Easter (or Velika noč) in Slovene, is still a major holiday in the country, and Easter Monday (falling on 21 April this year) is a work-free day. So if you’re visiting Ljubljana at this time you can expect it to be noticeably quieter than usual - although depending on the weather you may still have to elbow your way into a seat at one of the countless cafés along the Ljubljanica river. If you have the honour of being invited to someone’s home during Easter weekend - which is not incredibly likely given that it’s traditionally a time for family gatherings - be prepared to eat more or less continually for three days straight, as the weekend is informally referred to by many as ‘the Slovene eating holiday’. One Easter delicacy you have to try is potica, a rolled cake that can come with any number of fillings, most commonly a walnut or poppy seed paste. If you can’t get it homemade, it’s best purchased from smaller bakeries or the central market. 18.05 Sunday International Museum Day Started in 1977 to raise awareness of the importance that museums have in the development of society, participation has now spread to some 100 countries and a staggering 30,000 institutions. This year’s 36th iteration will be based on the theme ‘Museums in a Changing World: New challenges, new inspirations’, which recognises that institutions are nowadays faced with interpreting and existing in a field that is becoming increasingly fluid. What this means for you is that on 18 May all of Ljubljana’s museums and galleries will offer free admission, and also feature a programme of various workshops, demonstrations, lectures and new exhibition openings.Qicom.museum. Odprta Kuhna Every Friday from March to October this year Pogačarjev Trg in Ljubljana’s old town will be transformed into one large ‘open kitchen’ featuring the mouthwatering culinary creations of many of Slovenia’s top restaurants, as well as a diverse selection of tourist farms, local food and beverage vendors and even individual chefs. The irresistible sights, smells and tastes will be accompanied by the festive sounds of various musical and other performances making for a lively atmosphere that’s not to be missed. The event is also a truly ‘open’ affair, so if you’ve always fancied yourself a master in the kitchen then this is the perfect opportunity to try to hand at cooking next to Slovenia’s best - contact the organisers to find out how you can participate. A full list of all current participants can be found on the official website, but be warned that after viewing the names and the photos it will be impossible to stay away from Pogačarjev Trg on Fridays this summer!QPogačarjev Trg, tel. +386 (0)41 968 491, email@example.com, odprtakuhna.si. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Free admission. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Hey good lookin’, what’s cookin’? Taste, smell and see what Slovenia has to offer, each Friday from 8:00 to 20:00 at Pogačarjev trg square at Open Kitchen food market. Set sail on a culinary adventure around the world, crisscrossing the Ljubljana central market, and indulge in everything from traditional Slovenian dishes to international culinary classics. And while you’re at it, why not making a toast to new-found “taste buds”?
Culture & Events Cinemas Foreign films are screened in the original language with Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are usually dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films tend to open with significant lag with respect to larger markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising something released months earlier in you own country. Tickets cost approximately €5. KinodvorQD-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. +386 (0)1 239 22 17, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.kinodvor.org. Kino KomunaQCankarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 8400, www.kolosej.si. KolosejQM-3, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)15 20 55 00, www.kolosej.si. Slovenska KinotekaQD-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. +386 (0)1 43 42 524, www.kinoteka.si.
Concert Halls Centre StožiceQL-1, Vojkova Cesta. Hala Tivoli QA/B-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)1 430 67 50, email@example.com, www.zavod-tivoli.si. Opera & Ballet LjubljanaQB/C-3, Župančičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 11 766/+386 (0)31 696 600, blagajna@ opera.si, www.opera.si. Slovenian Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija)QC-4, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 241 08 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.filharmonija.si.
Conference Venues Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows. With 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accommodate thousands of visitors, and also has 1,500 parking spaces within short walking distance. For those arriving by public transport, it is located only 300 metres from the main train and bus stations.QD-1, Dunajska 18, tel. +386 (0)13 00 26 11, email@example.com, www.gr-sejem.si.
Cultural Centres Cankarjev Dom This complex from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance, film, exhibitions and congresses.QB-3/4, Prešernova 10, tel. +386 (0)12 41 71 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.cd-cc.si. Centre of Sonorous Arts Vodnik Manor House Despite being only a short bike/bus ride or walk from the city centre, a trip to the the birthplace of Slovenia’s first poet Valentin Vodnik feels like visiting a countryside village. Tucked away in a leafy residential area of Šiška, 18 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Culture & Events bUY Tickets Eventim Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.QB-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)14 30 24 05, email@example.com, www.eventim.si/portal/en. Tourist Information Centre The helpful staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist information centre can answer pretty much any question you have about the city, provide you with maps and countless other brochures, and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and various other events.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. visitljubljana.si. Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. since 2012 the beautifully restored 17th century manor house has been home to the Centre of Sonorous Arts, which organises a wide variety of cultural events and activities including exhibitions, installations, concerts, children’s workshops, research, lectures, music lessons, guided tours and of course sonorous theatre performances. Developed by a passionate team led by Hanna Preuss, the sonorous theatre comprises of a variety of art forms whose basic means of expression are sound, rhythm and atmosphere, and performances often intertwine with other art forms, such as film, music, theatre, poetry and dance. The centre is truly the first and only of its kind in the world and definitely a must-see attraction for those interested in contemporary arts. See the centre’s website for more info a complete schedule of upcoming events.QJ-3, Vodnikova 65, tel. +386 (0)59 03 75 10, email@example.com, www.vodnikova-domacija.si. Open Tues & Thur 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-18:00, Wed & Fri 10:00-13:00, and Sat-Sun by prior arrangement. Closed Mon. Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) Ljubljana’s famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you sip your drink. Well worth checkingout both for itself and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up.QF-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org.
Galleries These are some of the city’s more established smaller galleries - most of which have art available for purchase. For info on larger galleries and museums please refer to the Sightseeing section. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Aksioma Project Space QD/E-2, Komenskega 18, tel. +386 (0)590 54 360/+386 (0)590 17 010, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.aksioma.org. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Alkatraz Galerija QF-2, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 434 0345, fax +386 (0)1 432 3378, galerija.alkatraz@ gmail.com, www.galerijalkatraz.org. Open Mon-Tues 11:00-15:00 and 16:00-20:00, and Fri 15:00-23:00. BeArtAngel This little gallery on Gornji Trg in Ljubljana’s old town is the peaceful sanctuary of local Slovene artist Božidar A. Kolerič, who paints under the name BeArtAngel. Kolerič has spent his life exploring creativity and life energy, and BeArtAngel represents his latest artistic endeavour. The paintings, which are known around the world, are said to represent unseen energies and support people in achieving inner peace. If it sounds confusing don’t worry, Kolerič is on hand at the gallery and happy to explain the meaning behind BeArtAngel and each painting’s energies.QD-4, Gornji Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)41 764 352, email@example.com, www.beartangel. si. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Galerija EqurnaQC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1252 71 23, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.equrna.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. No admission. Galerija Kresija QD-3, Stritarjeva 6, tel. +386 (0)13 06 11 71. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Galerija TR3 QTrg Republike 3, tel. +386 (0)1 241 25 00, email@example.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Ganes Pratt Mala GalerijaQC-3, Slovenska 35, tel. +386 (0)1 241 68 50/+386 (0)51 242 811, galerija@ ganes-pratt.si, www.ganes-pratt.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Kino Šiška Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 932 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events.QK-3, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 100, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. kinosiska.si. PHLEB facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
Jakopič GalerijaQC-4, Slovenska 9, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, email@example.com, www.mestnimuzej.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Little Black Gallery (Mala črna galerija) QD-4, Mestni trg 9, tel. +(386) 51 370 769, incognito.n@ gmail.com, www.incognitodesign.si. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@ siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Škuc GalleryQD-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax +386 (0)1421 31 40, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tobačna 001 QA-4, Tobačna 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, email@example.com, www.mgml.si. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Vžigalica Galerija QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 7, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.mgml.si. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Theatres Most plays are in Slovenian, though every now and then there’s a company visiting from abroad. Times given are the box office opening hours. Gledališče GlejQC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 251 66 79, email@example.com, www.glej.si. Kavarna UnionQD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1308 17 63, www.gh-union.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mini TheatreQC-4, Križevniška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 60/+386 (0)41 314 414, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. mini-teater.si. National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče Drama)QC-4, Erjavčeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1252 15 11, email@example.com, www.drama.si. Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime, Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed. Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) QD/E-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1300 09 70, www.lgl. si. The box office is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each performance. Slovenian Youth Theatre (Slovensko Mladinsko Gledališče) QE-1, Vilharjeva 11, tel. +386 (0)1 425 33 12, firstname.lastname@example.org, en.mladinsko.com. Main box office at Trg Francoske Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30, Sat 10:0013:00. Stara ElektrarnaQE-2, Slomskova 18, tel. +386 (0)51 269 906, email@example.com, www.bunker.si. April - May 2014
Best Restaurants 2014 JB
Where to eat
Where to eat Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. Be sure to sample some local cuisine when in town, and do get yourself outside at least one legendary kremšnita cream cake, which can be found in abundance throughout the city (although Bled is considered to the spiritual home of this sticky, gooey delight). Those not in town for its culinary excellence and who plan to do plenty of walking will be pleased to discover that almost every street has at least one burek and pizza place on it. Eating on the hoof in Ljubljana is a treat not to be missed.
Slovenian In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian food - with sheep and cows on its mountain pastures giving meat and milk products, the Mediterranean providing fresh seafood, and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing that is unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade food that would make your granny grin. Aroma Located in the city’s oldest house, dating from 1528, this newly opened restaurant has already become a popular choice for visitors to Ljubljana. Aroma has a diverse menu offering traditional Slovene dishes as well as almost anything else you might fancy - from steaks and pizzas to salads and desserts - as well as a good selection of quality Slovene wines. Breakfast specials
look good too. Almost as hard as choosing what to order is deciding whether to sit inside under the beautiful vaulted ceilings or outside in prime position besides the Ljubljanica river. QD-3, Ribji Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)31 30 70 30, www.aromaljubljana.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PJABW Druga Violina Good locally grown produce, a simple short menu of Slovene classics, top location in the city’s old town, but there’s a twist in the tale with the ‘other violin’ (as the English translation of the name goes). It’s actually a project for people with special needs, who produce much of the food on farmland near Ljubljana and also work as waiting staff in the restaurant itself. Come and see what it’s all about, while enjoying one of the fresh local dishes either in the rustic dining room or on the delightful cobbled pavement outside.QD-4, Stari trg 21, tel. +386 (0)82 05 25 06, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJAUBW Gostilna Gorjanc With over two centuries of tradition (it was officially opened for business in 1813), Gorjanc is one of the longest running traditional Slovenian restaurants around Ljubljana, but at the same time it’s also one of the newest, as it underwent extensive restoration and modernisation at the same time the G Design Hotel was built next door. Along with the standard hearty Slovenian fare, such as blood sausages and sauerkraut with pork fat cracklings, the menu makes room for various refined fish, pastas, salads and other gourmet dishes. On weekdays there are
lunch specials on offer that can be seen in advance on their website.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 423 11 11, email@example.com, www.gdesignhotel.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PTALW Gostilna Na Gradu Decidedly upmarket in appearance and service, the prices are surprisingly modest - especially given the truly unique location and dining experience that goes along with it. Na Gradu’s award-winning chefs pride themselves on the expert preparation of Slovenia’s diverse range of traditional dishes, which have been developed over the centuries in the country’s 24 separate gastronomic regions, with nearly all of the ingredients being locally produced.QD-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)8 205 19 30, www.nagradu.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (€3.50-14). PTJA6ULBS Gostilna Pečarič This family-run establishment has gone through more than a few changes since it was originally opened back in 1969, along what was then one of the city’s most popular beaches - serving as a bar, bowling alley, pool hall and night club before finally settling as a restaurant in 1995. A popular spot for weddings, large celebrations and other events, it’s an equally pleasant place to enjoy a traditional Slovene meal in what feels like the countryside, but is still within the confines of Ljubljana’s ring road. Best reached by car or taxi, bus number 14 also terminates a few minutes’ walk away.QH-4, Pod Jezom 47, tel. +386 (0)1 256 31 03, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.pecaric-sp.si. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-03:00, Sun 10:00-17:00.
22 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Gostilna Pod Vrbo This traditional Slovenian gostilna is located in one of Ljubljana’s oldest neighbourhoods, just metres from the former home of famed architect Jože Plečnik. On sunny days the name Pod Vrbo (under the willows) takes on a literal meaning with tables out in the garden, while in winter you can cosy up beside the fire. The kitchen turns out excellent Slovenian and Mediterranean dishes some served in traditional copper pots and earthenware bowls - whilst the daily menus and seasonal specials, like homemade chestnut gnocchi with porcini mushrooms, are a great value.QZiherlova 36, tel. +386 (0)1 280 88 92/+386 (0)41 712 806, www.podvrbo.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun open by prior arrangement. Gostilnica Rimska XXI With its low arched ceilings, moody red walls and touch of rustic furnishings this homey low-key restaurant has already become one of our favourite places to come when we’re in the mood for traditional Slovene cuisine it a great setting. Fresh homemade dishes of all sorts are are the speciality here, including deer, fish and wood-baked meats, and the menu changes daily depending on the season and whims of the head chef. Even the beer, juice and brandy is homemade, and there’s also an excellent selection of Slovene wines.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 256 56 54, email@example.com, www.r-g.si/ xxi. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€6-20). PTJA6IB April - May 2014
Where to eat
Where to eat Hiša Slovenskih Domačih Jedi Pomf Just around the corner from Ljubljana’s famous Dragon Bridge, this place is refreshingly the opposite of a tourist trap: preparing high-quality authentic Slovene cuisine at reasonable prices. It also has a cosy unassuming cosy interior that is much larger than it looks from the street, and includes a separate dining area in the cellar with an exposed brick vaulted ceiling - a perfect retreat for couples. There’s even live music in the evenings. Of course it’s the food that brings people here, and the house specialities include game goulash (with deer and wild boar), bograč and jota (classic Slovene stews), various grilled dishes and something called Emperor’s fingers.QTrubarjeva 40, tel. +386 (0)40 727 919, Hisa.Okusov.Ljubljana@gmail. com. Open 12:00-24:00. €3.50-11.50. Jelen Located in Šiška some 5km from the city centre, this guest house and restaurant has been serving locals and tourists alike since 1878. There’s a full menu of traditional Slovene dishes as well as an assortment of tasty Balkan-style grilled meats and pizzas from a wood-fired oven. Upstairs there are five fully equipped modern rooms, which are convenient if you’ve got an early morning flight to catch or have just eaten (or drunk) too much to make it very far from the table.QCelovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 5161 545, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. pension-jelen.eu. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. €3.80-16. PTAUBSW Güjžina Voted by our readers as the best Slovenian restaurant in Ljubljana for 2013, Güjžina offers traditional cuisine from the region of Prekmurje, which is situated in the far northeastern corner of the country and heavily influenced by neighbouring Hungary, Austria and Croatia. One of the most typical dishes is the award-winning bograč, a thick meaty stew that comes served in a large copper kettle, while the multi-layered cake known as gibanica is easily the best in the city and an absolute must for dessert. Check the chalkboard or ask your waiter for the daily specials. QD-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)8 380 64 46, info@ prekmurska-gostilna.si, www.prekmurska-gostilna.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PJAB
Taste traditional Slovene dishes like homemade gnocchi, dumplings, baked bread, veal stew with buckwheat and goulash served in a copper pot at Gostilna Pod Vrbo
24 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Hiša Kulinarike Manna Set in a colourful little house on one of Ljubljana’s prettiest (and most overlooked) streets, Manna offers a divine selection of contemporary Slovene cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Meals are complimented with some tasty homemade desserts and large choice of both Slovene and foreign wines, as well as a sophisticated selection of spirits (aged rums, cognacs and whiskeys) and cigars for after dinner. A large garden and terrace in the back is open all year, and many people come here to enjoy a coffee, sweets or light snack.QC/D-5, Eipprova 1a, tel. +386 (0)5 992 23 08, email@example.com, www.kulinarikamanna.si. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00 Holidays 08:0022:00. (€5-20). PTJA6UGBS ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Kuhinja Krušič Aside from the Euro, nothing has stirred up more disagreement amongst Europeans in recent years than horse meat - Slovenia being one of the countries where people largely have no problem with horses finding there way onto kitchen tables. Like-minded visitors in Ljubljana will thus surely want to add the family-run Krušič to their itinerary. Operating a butchery for over a century, it’s one of the country’s top suppliers of horse meat, which also dominates the menu in various different forms at the restaurant on the same premises. Various appetisers, stews, cured meats and of course steaks from horse are on offer here, all of which can be enjoyed in the charming little dining room or taken away.QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 544 61 41, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.mesarstvokrusic.si. Open 08:00-16:00 Mon-Wed, 08:00-22:00 Thur-Fri. Closed Sat-Sun and holidays. LS Skriti Kot If you want to eat like a local, Skriti Kot (or the Hidden Corner) is a good place to start. Popular with suits and students alike, this family-owned subterranean restaurant serves up hearty lunches. On offer is a varied menu with pastas prominent as well as excellent Slovene dishes, whilst the daily menus are a great value, and for vegetarians there is a wide range of meatless dishes and perhaps the best salad bar in town. Located in the Ajdovščina underpass it may be a bit tricky to find, but is well worth seeking out.QC-3, Ajdovščina 4, tel. +386 (0)1 430 22 06, email@example.com, www.skritikot.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PTA6UGBXSW facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
Vander Restaurant More than a hotel restaurant, Vander Urbani is a top destination for exquisite dining in Ljubljana’s old town. Head chef Benjemin Launay adds a modern touch to traditional Slovenian favourites, with dishes such as štruklji, jota and žlikrofi undergoing 21st century transformations that result in some truly delectable (and beautifully presented) cuisine. The so-called ‘deep dish’ lunch menu changes weekly, while the à la carte dinner menu is seasonal with only the freshest ingredients sourced from local markets, farmers and forests. We also like to stop by for breakfast when we get the chance, as the international atmosphere gives us the feeling of being on holiday.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, firstname.lastname@example.org, vanderhotel.com. Open Mon-Sat 07:00-11:00 (breakfast), 12:00-15:00 (lunch), 19:00-23:00 (dinner). PJAEW Vodnikov Hram Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent square, it’s one of the better known places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana. Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the castle.QD/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)12 34 52 60, email@example.com, www.vodnikov-hram.si. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. (€4.50-24). PTAULGSW
Sample traditional Slovene cuisine in the heart of the old town at Vodnikov Hram
April - May 2014
Where to eat
Where to eat
Beli Labod Located a short walk east of the train station, don’t be put off by the fact that the sign outside advertisers both a Chinese restaurant and pizzeria, as the latter is an innocent remnant of the former occupant. Quite fittingly for a place called Beli Labod (Slovene for White Swan), the inner beauty here shines through, with excellent food and genuinely friendly service. There’s also a huge sunny terrace out front and free parking in the back. Among the many house specialties the so-called ‘hot plates’ stand out, since it’s a well-known fact that food just tastes better when it’s served on a sizzling iron dish. A second location is at Bizantova 22 in Medvode.QF-1, Masarykova 21, tel. +386 (0)30 318 377/+386 (0)64 198 748, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.beli-labod.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. PTJALB
Gostilna Čad When you ask locals to name there favourite Balkan restaurant in Ljubljana, Čad is one of the most frequently heard answers. Situated by Rožnik Hill around corner from Tivoli Park, it’s also the longest-running restaurant of its kind in town, and guests can dine in the shady garden surrounded by nature or in the rustic homey interior. Specialising in spit and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and raznjici skewers all come highly recommended.QJ-3, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel. +386 (0)1 251 34 46, email@example.com, www.gostilna-cad.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€5-15). PTJAUILEGBXSW
Cesarsko Mesto A big, brightly-coloured, and certainly kitschy beacon located some 3km east of the city centre, this Chinese restaurant keeps its parking lot full as their ever-smiling staff serves a steady stream of hungry locals. The menu focuses on Mongolian and Tibetan specialties and offers Slovenian beverages as well as Chinese and Tibetan drinks. Just down the street from BIT Hotel and easily reached from the ring road, the trip here is worth it if you’re craving authentic east Asian cuisine.QM-4, Litijska 76, tel. +386 (0)1 544 4500, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.cesarskomesto.si. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PAUGBS
There’s an excellent selection of wine to go with some of the city’s best Asian cuisine at Shambala in the old town
26 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
CHINESE RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA Masarykova 21, 1000 Ljubljana 00 386 (0) 30 318 377 Maru Tucked away in the northwest corner of the city amongst the green spaces and residential streets of the Šiška neighbourhood, this excellent Japanese restaurant makes the most of its surroundings with two spacious yet intimate terraces overlooking the park opposite, while the minimalist interior has an equally tranquil ambience. With a kitchen run under the watchful eye of Japanese chef Yoshihiko, in addition to a selection of expertly prepared classic sushi dishes, the menu features mouthwatering main courses such as baked Barbarie duck and grilled white fish - all of which goes great with the house wine from Ščurek, one of Slovenia’s top producers.QJ-2, Vodnikova 155, tel. +386 (0)30 200 222, email@example.com, www. maru.si. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PALB
Gostilnica Rio-Momo Situated between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine.QC-3, Slovenska 28, tel. +386 (0)31 751 751/+386 (0)14 25 32 26, portalm@ siol.net, www.riomomo.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PTJAUSW
Gostilna Vrbinc Part of the cosy Alohotel resort, the Vrbinc restaurant is renowned for its grilled meat dishes and excellent Balkan cuisine. Summer is the time for the best of Balkan, and Vrbinc has a purpose built area at the front of the building for roasting pork and lamb over an open fire, to be enjoyed in their laid back dining room or lively conservatory. Guests of the hotel receive their complimentary freshly cooked breakfast here in the mornings.QL-6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, info@ alo-hotel.si, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si.
Indian Maharaja A wide variety of excellent, authentic Indian cuisine, with some genuinely friendly service included at no extra charge. Choosing between the various dishes can be a challenge on your first visit, especially if you opt for starters and side dishes, but for those not familiar with Indian cuisine, the menu is full of extremely helpful (and realistic) photos of the individual dishes. Discounted lunch specials are available on weekdays, and include an all-you-eat buffet for €8.90 per person. Parking available for buses.QJ-2, Vodnikova 35, tel. +386 (0)30 605 560, info@maharaja. si, www.maharaja.si. Open 11:00-22:00, Thur-Fri 11:0023:00, Sat & holidays 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. Mains €6.90 - 16.90. PAVBS
Moysushi The prospect of a reasonably priced sushi bar in the heart of the old town had us well and truly excited when we first heard about it. Call us crazy, but there’s just something fun about snatching colour-coded plates of raw fish and other morsels from a conveyor belt in a futuristic faux-Japanese setting! It’s also nice to know that their head chef is actually from Japan. While we prefer to linger over several bottles of sake and perhaps order a main dish or two off the á la carte menu, the setup makes for a quick lunchtime option and prepared takeaway boxes are also available - chopsticks optional.QD-4, Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)59 93 55 40, www.moysushi.com. Open Mon-Wed 10:30-22:00, Thur-Sat 10:30-23:00, Sun 10:3017:00. (Plates €1.90-3.70, mains €5-10). PJABS Shambala Not only does Shambala’s kitchen turn out some of the best (and spiciest) Asian cuisine in Slovenia, but the tranquil, almost meditative, ambience of the place allows you to enjoy your meal in a state of perfect relaxation - with some of the best service in town thrown in as an added benefit. During the warmer months, diners can also take advantage of the pleasant little garden that is tucked away in one of the buildings inner courtyards. Situated down a narrow alleyway off Breg, this hidden gem is definitely worth finding.QC-4, Križevniška 12, tel. +386 (0)1 426 30 14/+386 (0)31 843 833, info@ shambala.si, www.shambala.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). PTJAGBK ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
One of a kind! 120 years of tradition 120 years or premium quality ........................................................... Opening time- Every day 11:00-23:00 phone +386 (0)1 251 34 46 www.gostilna-cad.si
April - May 2014
Where to eat
Krojaška 8, 1000 Ljubljana t : 00386 / 1 25 11 749 e: firstname.lastname@example.org www.staramacka.si
*** Odprto: pon-ned 09-03 ***
Where to eat Bistro Located in the heart of Ljubljana’s city centre on Kongresni Trg, and Zvezda Park (and conveniently above a shiny new subterranean parking garage), Bistro is fine place to both dine and people watch. While the restaurant is minimalist in décor, its menu of gourmet lunches and light snacks are nothing if not decadent, and its sophisticated wine list is complimented by an ample selection of cocktails for those wishing to drop by for an after work or late night tipple.QC-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 90 91, www.zvezdaljubljana.si. Open 11:00 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JAS Čupiterija Ljubljana funkiest bar (and we mean that in a good way) is also a great old town destination for lunch or dinner, especially if you appreciate a bit of personality with your meal. The menu is straight to the point, offering a small but varied choice of Slovene, Spanish, pasta and grilled meat dishes, with the latter being the most recommendable of the lot for our tastes - the young pork in cream sauce is simply delectable! If you’re feeling especially adventurous you can try the frog legs with polenta, an old Ljubljana specialty.QD-4, Mestni Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)59 712 369, email@example.com. Open 09:00 - 03:00.
Namasté Set along the beautifully redeveloped Breg riverside walk in the old town, Namasté is the longest running Indian restaurant in all of Slovenia, and offers one of Ljubljana’s most romantic dining experiences of any flavour - with soft yellow hued lighting, hand-painted walls and a relaxed cosy atmosphere. The house specialties are dishes from the Rajastan and Punjab regions, which are prepared individually with spices directly imported from the subcontinent and can be ordered mild to extra hot.QC/D-4, Breg 8, tel. +386 (0)14 25 01 59, www. restavracija-namaste.si. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UGBXS
International Argentino The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced to be believed. Huge and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside, the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen, which turns out a dizzying array of mouth-watering Latin American dishes including some of the best steaks in Ljubljana. There’s also an excellent wine cellar with some 130 different Argentinean wines.QM-3, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. +386 (0)1 523 36 30, www.argentino.si. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri-Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun and holidays 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.20-45). PTAR6UILGBXSW 28 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Gostilna As One of Slovenia’s first truly world class restaurants when it opened its doors in the centre of Ljubljana more than a quarter century ago, in the years since it hasn’t missed a beat, still serving some of the very best Mediterraneaninspired cuisine in the city. For us the true standouts on the menu are the fantastic seafood specialties (both starters and main courses), but you also can’t go wrong with the steaks, grilled to order on an open-fire. When in doubt, you can rely on the friendly and professional staff for recommendations, as well as guidance with the equally superb wine list. A must for lovers of extravagant dining!QC-3, Čopova 5a (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.gostilnaas.si. Open 12:00 - 01:00. PJAGB
Catering Glažuta One of Slovenia’s top catering companies, Glažuta offers gourmet food and professional service for virtually any type of event imaginable: from small intimate dinners for less than a dozen people to major events with a thousand or more guests. Everything is aesthetically prepared using carefully selected ingredients, and the right combination of extravagance and practicality. Specialty menus (such as gluten-free or international cuisine) can be ordered, and services range from breakfasts and standing cocktail banquets to served lunch and dinner, as well as packaged meals for guests on the go. In addition to catering, Glažuta also operates a trendy self-service restaurant with good-value lunches and a lounge bar in the north of the city.QL-2, Dunajska 119, tel. +386 (0)1 565 43 26/+386 (0)31 357 751, email@example.com, www.glazuta.com. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
ribji trg 6 l 1000 ljubljana
+ 386 l 0 l 31 764 063
TaBar_124x41.indd 1 Harfa It may be a bit out of the way, but Harfa is one of Ljubljana’s finest restaurants and well worth seeking out. Trained by acclaimed Slovenian Chef Janez Bratovž, Chef Boštjan Pavli masterfully balances flavours using stunningly fresh produce to create delicious dishes, such as garlic soup with lobster and scallops and homemade chanterelle ravioli. On offer are two styles of dining, casual lunch menus as well as more refined four-course business lunches; menus change daily and feature fish, meat and vegetarian options. Complementing the food is a fantastic wine list, whilst the service is also excellent.QJ-5, Koprska 98, tel. +386 (0)1 423 24 11/+386 (0)41 858 033, info@ harfa-restavracija.si, www.harfa-restavracija.si. Open . Closed Sat, Sun Open 10:30-17:00 and in the evenings by prior arrangement. Closed Sat-Sun. PAL
Hotel Cubo Restaurant For fine modern dining right in the heart of the city centre, look no further than the ground floor of Hotel Cubo. Just steps away from some of Ljubljana’s top cultural venues (Cankarjev Dom, Drama Theatre and the Slovenian Philharmonic) Cubo is a popular choice for a pre- or postperformance dinner. The tranquil interior and professional service also makes it a common destination for important business lunches, while gourmet cuisine is creatively prepared with the freshest ingredients, and complimented by an exquisite wine list. Free kerbside valet service and shuttles for groups of four or more guests are added bonuses.QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 30, www.hotelcubo.com. Open only for lunch until April. PJALW JB Firmly entrenched as one of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining experience comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez Bratovž (hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more imposing secessionist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix of well-to-do locals and visiting businessmen - guaranteeing you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as bear meat appearing from time to time. The only downside is the price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal with wine.QDfacebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
tabar.si 23.01.14 20:46
1, Miklošičeva 17, tel. +386 (0)1 433 13 58/+386 (0)1 474 72 19, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.jb-slo.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJA Marley & Me Acres of stripped pine, friendly professional service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, this intimate bistro-type restaurant is comes highly recommended. Standouts from the small yet varied menu include the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas and some truly memorable meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table during the day is a common occurrence.QD-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)8 380 66 10/+386 (0)40 564 188, info@ marleyandme.si, www.marleyandme.si. Open 11:00 23:00. (€3-22). €€. PJA6UGBXSW Maxim In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)51 28 53 35, email@example.com, www.maxi.si. Open 12:00-23:00 Mon-Fri, and Sat by prior agreement. Closed Sun. (€19 and more). PJALGBS Meta in Bazilika Situated next to several faculty buildings in the city centre, Meta in Bazilika is exceedingly popular with the university crowd, and could perhaps best be described as upscale student dining at it’s finest. Large portions, low prices and a lively atmosphere keep the place buzzing throughout the day, especially at lunchtime and in the evenings, when pints of Hirter beer flow liberally and the large terrace is sure to be packed. In addition to all this, the food itself is also generally excellent, with a large selection of pizzas, pastas, salads and what may very well be the best panna cotta in the city.QB-4, Rimska 25a, tel. +386 (0)1 425 40 45/+386 (0)31 250 247, firstname.lastname@example.org, metainbazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJABW April - May 2014
Where to eat
Where to eat also roundly excellent, while the seafood is among the best in town. Dining outside by the river is a must during the warmer months, just make sure to save room for some Teran cake at dessert.QD-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 31, tel. +386 (0)1 425 40 90, email@example.com, www.riverhouse.si. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (€7-23). PTJA6UGBS
Origano Located in what was once upon a time the village of Vrhovci, Origano isn’t Ljubljana’s most conveniently located restaurant, but is nevertheless worth the effort it takes to find. Set in a century-old house, the interior has been extensively modernised in a spacious minimalist style, which is well-suited for the cooking workshops and culture/culinary evenings that frequently take place. In addition to a seasonally focussed à la carte menu, Origano has some of the best set lunches in town, usually consisting of a few lower priced options, a slightly more sophisticated business lunch and something for vegetarians.QI4, Cesta na Vrhovce 4, tel. +386 (0)51 400 500, info@ origano.si, www.origano.si. Open Mon-Thur 10:0022:00, Fri 10:00-24:00 and Sat 11:00-18:00. Closed Sun & Holidays. PALEBW Paradiž This friendly neighbourhood restaurant may have recently undergone some modern renovations, but still boasts old-fashioned charm and service. Located on the outskirts of town, it’s near a vibrant local market and the pleasant Koseze Pond. Paradiž is an unpretentious place where locals drop by for coffee or beer on the terrace as well as the tasty affordable lunches. Menus change daily and feature Slovenian favourites like schnitzel, golaž and various grilled meat dishes, as well as a vegetarian option.QJ-3, Podutiška 30, tel. +386 (0)1 518 13 88, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.paradiz-koseze.si. Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PTLVBS Plato Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, email@example.com, plato.si. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW 30 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Plaza Hotel Restaurant The hotel restaurant at the magnificent towering Plaza Hotel in BTC is an expectedly resplendent affair, befitting of its four-star home and largely business clientele. The menu is short and focussed, ensuring freshness while also offering enough variety to satisfy most tastes. Dishes include Slovene specialities (such as Idrija’s famed žlikrofi and various homemade cured meats), as well as international standards.QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.plazahotel.si. Open for dinner 19:00-22:00. PALW Pri Levu When the world-class Hotel Lev was constructed in 1964, it was built on the site of what had been a well-known local restaurant called Pri Levu. In 2009, the restaurant was finally reopened (or at least re-imagined) within the hotel itself, and has since become one of the city’s top spots to dine. The wine list is also one of the most impressive around, as are the beautifully presented desserts, while the ambience is decidedly elegant without being pretentious.QC-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 432 70 89, fax +386 (0)1 230 25 78, email@example.com, www.prilevu.si. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJA Promenada Just steps from Prešeren Square, Promenada restaurant (and the café of the same name next-door) occupies a prime riverside location with great drinking and eating options. The menu features a fine selection of Slovenian wines complemented by spiced Balkan grills, hearty Slovenian fare and delicate seafood dishes, while the restaurant’s wood-fired oven doesn’t just provide a cosy atmosphere, from it emerge some very tasty pizzas.QPetkovškovo Nabrežje 9, tel. +386 (0)8 383 10 82, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. restavracija-promenada.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Slon Officially one of the best restaurants in the city (they have an award to prove it), the eatery at the Best Western Slon is well worth your time. The central location, the delightfully simple - mainly Mediterranean - menu and the outstanding service all help to make it special. Try and bag one of the tables overlooking the lounge: among the most sought-after in the city.QC-3, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11 00, email@example.com, www. hotelslon.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. PTJHAULGKW Sputnik Cosmic Caffe Modern and trendy, yet welcoming and unpretentious, Sputnik may be more known as a nightlife venue for Ljubljana’s up and coming elite, but during the day it’s a popular breakfast and lunch time stop for out-of-town businessmen, white collar workers with offices nearby, and even the odd student who appreciates a subtle ambiance. The menu changes daily, but it tends to lean towards lighter Mediterranean fare with pastas, soups, salads and the like. One of the warm breakfasts accompanied by a strong espresso is a great way to start a day.QJ-5, Tržaška 128, tel. +386 (0)1 42 32 372, fax +386 (0)1 25 66 795, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.sputnik.si. Open MonThur 06:30-24:00, Fri 06:30-02:00, Sat 08:00-02:00 and Sun 09:00-22:00. PALEBW Stara Mačka Ljubljana’s original steakhouse has occupied some prime real estate along the Ljubljanica river just steps from Prešeren Square for longer than we can remember. The mouthwatering steaks come in various different sizes and cuts, and are complimented with equally well-prepared side dishes. They also offer lighter fare such as seafood dishes and some incredible salads, while the outside terrace is a popular spot to linger over cocktails during the warmer months of the year. In the autumn and winter the interior dining space offers a cosy retreat from the elements.QD-3/4, Kroja��ka 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 49, info@ staramacka.si, www.staramacka.si. Open 09:00 - 03:00. €€€. PJA6UEGBW
River House Situated along a quiet stretch of the Ljubljanica river in the heart of the old town, the aptly named River House is a friendly place to enjoy a fine dining experience. The menu offers a wide selection of dishes you won’t find anywhere else, including house specialities like pan-fried buffalo mozzarella wrapped in prosciutto, herb crusted lamb chops, and a mouthwatering vegetarian plate. The homemade pasta is ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
U YO L L
AUTHENTIC BRAZILIAN CHURRACARIA RESTAURANT
LJUBLJANA • TRG MDB 1 www.brasil.si 00386 31 250 247 served straight from skewers - unlimited. All you can eat self-service from salad,
Za Pumpo The creatively named Za Pumpo, which means ‘behind the gas station’, is located (surprisingly) behind a petrol station in the vicinity of several university faculties, and consistently tasty food, generous portions and low prices make it a popular choice with students and other locals alike. The huge menu has something for everyone including Balkan and Italian classics as well as hearty Slovene dishes, all complimented by a fine selection of quality Slovenia wines. There are also some good looking breakfast offerings.QJ-4, Tržaška 46, tel. +386 (0)41 777 772, email@example.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
Latin American Rodizio do Brasil Slovenia’s first Brazilian restaurant has quickly became one of Ljubljana’s top dining destinations since it opened in December. Modelled after Brazil’s traditional rodízio style steakhouse restaurants, patrons pay a fixed price for unlimited quantities of high quality grilled meat that is brought to the table on large skewers hot from the grill and accompanied by a huge selection of hot and cold dishes from the buffet (many of which are even vegetarian). For the full on Brazilian experience come on a night when there’s a dance performance and order a few extra rounds of Caipirinhas - just make sure to reserve a table in advance.QTrg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 1, tel. +386 (0)40 316 341/+386 (0)31 250 247, info@brasil. si, www.brasil.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. PJAEB April - May 2014
Where to eat
Where to eat Mediterranean Allegria Tucked away in a courtyard behind a large terrace, this longrunning Ljubljana eatery prepares exemplary Mediterranean cuisine, with an emphasis on dishes from Slovenia’s coastal regions. Seasonal specials are regularly offered, and the entire menu is naturally complimented by an excellent wine list. The steaks and homemade gnocchi are among our favourite dishes, but for something really unique try the Kraški risotto, which is made using Jamar sir (a cheese aged in a cave 70m underground).QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 74 02, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.allegria.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€7-19). PTJA6UEGBSW TaBar This ultra-modern new concept restaurant and bar combines Slovenian-style tapas with an excellent selection of wines from some of the country’s top producers. The menu has a strong Mediterranean influence, featuring everything from tender prosciutto and salami to roasted octopus and baked shrimp - all prepared with fresh local ingredients in an open kitchen, where you can watch the magic happen if you’re lucky enough to find an open seat. For those adverse to making decisions, there are threeand five-course tasting menus selected by the chef (our preferred option), while many patrons simply drop in to sample a few glasses of wine.QD-3, Ribji Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)31 764 063, email@example.com, www.tabar.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PTJA6UGBW Zajčja Dobrava Resembling some kind of alpine hacienda placed amongst meadows and forests a short drive east of the city centre, this Mediterranean restaurant has already developed a loyal following and seems destined to become a favourite of city folk who truly appreciate quality food, service and atmosphere, but don’t have the time to drive to the coast. It’s also the definition of ‘family-friendly’ with multiple children’s play areas. To get there turn left at the unmissable Virgin Mary Church in Polje and then right on Novo Polje Cesta after the train underpass.QO-2, Novo Polje III/27, tel. +386 (0)1 54 74 806, www.zajcja-dobrava. com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (€6-20). TA6ILB
Middle Eastern Laziz It was a long wait, but much to our delight Ljubljana has finally got a restaurant serving authentic Arabic cuisine, which in the case of Laziz is prepared by a chef from Alexandria, the culinary capital of Egypt. The intimate interior has an upscale feel to it, and most importantly the perfectly-spiced full-flavoured food is outstanding - with a short focussed menu that both reassures you of freshness and provides ample variety. Located in the neighbourhood of Moste, it’s not exactly well-situated for unplanned walk-ins, but is still a relatively short trip from the city centre and definitely worth finding.QL-4, Prvomajski 1, 32 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
tel. +386 (0)51 615 540, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. laziz.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Mains €7.20-23. PABW Yildiz Han Set on the ground floor a beautiful century-old villa just behind castle hill, the city’s only Turkish restaurant is just a few minutes’ walk from the old town, yet is still something of an undiscovered gem for most residents and tourists alike. Decorated in traditional Turkish style, with low tables and cushy seating, carpets on the walls and Ataturk above the door, as impressive as it all looks, the food still manages to exceed expectations. An already lengthy menu is supplemented with regional specialities on a regular basis, and complimented with a surprisingly good selection of Turkish wines. At the weekends diners are treated to bellydancing shows, and a resident fortune-teller is often on hand to read what your coffee grounds tell about your future. It’s always a good idea to book ahead.QE-5, Karlovška 19, tel. +386 (0)1 426 57 17, yildiz@ siol.net, www.yildiz-han.com. Open 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€6-12). PJAUGBS
Pizza Foculus Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers.QC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 92 95, foculus@siol. net, www.picerija.net/foculus.htm. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS Parma A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.QB/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. +386 (0)1 426 82 22, email@example.com, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-6.20). TJA6ULGBXSW Pizzeria Osmica Located on the pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. The menu boasts over two dozen pizzas, and several choice of salad, lasagna and tortillas are also on offer in the comfortable rustic setting - think lots of wood and exposed stone with an open kitchen. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
April - May 2014
Where to eat
Where to eat We stop by for lunch or grab a pizza to go on the way home quite often, but if we were forced to choose a favourite it’d have to be the Tartufo, which comes heaped with prosciutto, salami, parmesan and of course truffle oil.QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 58 72, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.osmica. si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.50-8.30). PTJA6UBSW Trnovski Zvon An interesting option if you’re in the area, this localgeared pizza place has a nice intimate room at the front and a larger space out the back. Décor comes courtesy of a few stuffed animals and some interesting bits of art on the walls, whilst the people who come here run the gamut from youngsters out for a bit of a treat to husbands whose wives have run away without leaving anything in the oven. As well as a large list of pizzas in two sizes, the (sadly Slovenian-only) menu also has a few other dishes including fish, pasta and a couple of vegetarian options.QC-5, Eipprova 17, tel. +386 (0)1 283 94 64, email@example.com, www.pizzerijatrnovskizvon. com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 22:00 In the summer time open till 24:00. (€5.20-8.80). PTJAULBXS Trta Trta is the most frequently heard answer to the question: Who makes the best pizza in Ljubljana? - and not without good reason. Its wood-fired oven churns out some truly delectable pies, which tend to be a bit more substantial than most of the thin-crusted competition. Our personal favourite is probably the Toskanska, with rocket and pancetta among other toppings, but with over 40 different pizzas crowding onto the menu you won’t be left wanting for choices. Located in a yellow house along the right bank a short walk south of the city centre, Trta comes highly recommended.QD-5, Grudnovo Nabrežje 21, tel. +386 (0)1 426 50 66, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.trta.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PAGBS
Quick Eats Burger King After being more or less raised on fast food in the US, we consider ourselves something of an expert on the subject, and as such we can say unequivocally that Burger King easily comes out ahead when compared to any other internationally known burger joint (not naming any names of course). If you don’t believe us, head to the food court on the first floor of CityPark and try a Whopper for yourself.QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (Citypark), tel. +386 (0)1 520 01 47. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€2.80-5.80). PTAULGS Burrito Loco The concept of this newly opened Mexican takeaway in the centre of town will be immediately familiar to anyone who has eaten at one of the widely popular Chipotle Mexican Grills whilst in the United States, namely, huge 34 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
mission-style burritos prepared to order with your choice of fresh ingredients. The menu also includes quesadillas, soft tacos and salads, but for us the real standout here is the pulled pork burrito with guacamole. If you like what you taste, ask for a stamp card - collect ten stamps and the eleventh burrito is free.QC-4, Slovenska 6, tel. +386 (0)31 897 694, www.facebook.com/burritolocoLJ. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €. JNS NEW Chuty’s This small Thai takeaway located on a small side street in the city centre may very well cook up some of the best Asian food in the Ljubljana. They have all the Thai staples covered from starters like chicken satay and spring rolls to our favourite noodle dishes Pad Thai and Pad see ew. If you’re looking for something with a bit of a kick, the spicy green or red curry will do the job. While you wait you can watch the chef at work through a large picture window looking into the kitchen, and there’s also plenty of barstyle seating if you’d prefer to eat in.QGregorčičeva 10, tel. +386 (0)83 899 772, email@example.com, chutys.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €. Falafel A tiny little place churning out delicious falafel-based delicacies plus the usual array of pizzas and burgers. An excellent choice for vegetarians on the move, expect long queues during the busy lunchtime period.QE-3, Trubarjeva 40/+386 (0)41 64 01 66, www.alja-shaar. com/falafel.htm. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€1-7). JA6UVGS NEW Hitra Žlica If you’re in hurry at lunchtime, but would still like to sample some traditional Slovene fare, make your way to Hitra Žlica (the Fast Spoon) in the city centre just off Slovenska Cesta. As the name implies, they specialise is Slovene dishes that eaten with a spoon, such bograč (goulash), ričet (rice stew), pasulj (bean stew) and our personal favourite jota (sour cabbage and sausage stew). The menu also includes other light meals, some tasty seasonal soups, fresh mixed salads and traditional Slovene pastries - all of which can be eaten in the modern red and white dining area or taken away.QC/D-2, Dalmatinova 2, www.hitrazlica.com. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. Hood Burger Hood Burger was a revelation for Ljubljana’s fast food aficionados when it first began operating out of a simple food truck in the parking lot of the Interspar shopping centre in Vič back in 2012, quickly earning a reputation as one of the best burger joints in town and shortly thereafter moving into new premises nearby. The key to the American-style burgers’ popularity begins with the homemade potato buns and ends with a mandatory side-order of real French fries, while the mouthwatering images frequently posted to their Facebook page don’t hurt either.QJ-5, Jamova 105, tel. +386 (0)40 540 411. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €. LBS facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
Y E ONL ND TH R IRST A URGE B E S THE F R AL HO LD. R ORIGIN O W E IN TH
Give it a try, while you are in Ljubljana! Hot-Horse, BTC shopping centre Šmartinska 152,Ljubljana Open 09 am – 06 am (Mon-Sun)
Hot-Horse, park Tivoli Celovška 25, Ljubljana Open 09 am – 06 am (Mon-Sun)
Hot Horse A true Ljubljana institution, a stop at Hot Horse is a must for all first-time and returning visitors. The legendary horseburger is not only an original Slovenian creation, but is also healthy, low in fat and rich in protein and iron, and the menu now boasts a wider variety than ever before, including wraps, steaks and hot dogs, all of which come with your choice of toppings and condiments. Hot Horse was also twice selected by our readers as the Best Fast Food restaurant in Ljubjana. Visit their large modern kiosk near the arena in Tivoli Park, or their other outlets in BTC and Rudnik near Rutar.QB-2, Tivoli Park, tel. +386 (0)1 521 14 27, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.hot-horse.si. Open 09:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS Klobasarna It’s not often you find a restaurant where the menu consists largely of one item, but when the famed Kranjska Klobasa is the dish in question then that’s really all you need. Taking its name from the city of Kranj, this hearty sausage was at the centre of so-called ‘klobasa wars’ between Slovenia and Austria (and later Croatia) over the rights to the EU-protected name. History and politics aside, this trendy takeaway opposite the Cathedral is the best place to taste what all the ado is about. They also serve the traditional Slovene dishes jota and ričet, hearty stews that go great with the famed sausage.QCiril-Metodov 15, tel. +386 (0)51 605 017, email@example.com, www.klobasarna. si. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JS
Many more Restaurants online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
typical slovenian sausage www.klobasarna.si
April - May 2014
Where to eat Surf’n’Fries We recently began noticing people carrying around boxes of fries (or chips as we would say) in the city centre, and it turns out that this place is the culprit. We’re still not sure where the ‘surf’ part of the name comes in (as seafood is not on the menu), but they do offer heaping portions of fries prepare in a variety of ways and accompanied by a selection of sauces, as well as some deep fried chicken dishes to satisfy the non-vegetarians. Open late, because everything fried tastes better after a night of drinking.QC3, Plečnikov Trg. Open 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €2.10-4.50. Tandoori Such is the lack of good, reasonably-priced ethnic food in Ljubljana that rumours of this place’s imminent opening were swirling excitedly around the city’s expat community for months before the smells of curry finally began filling the air near the eastern end of Trubarjeva Ulica. Thus it was with high expectations that we shortly thereafter joined the line of eager patrons outside Ljubljana’s first Indian takeaway, and emerged happy to report that all is as it should be: fresh, spicy, fragrant cuisine from the subcontinent for under €5. If we had to choose one standout it would likely be the chicken curry naan wraps, but we have yet to be disappointed by anything on the menu.QE-3, Trubarjeva 60, tel. +386 (0)40 549 472/+386 (0)40 549 161, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JS Žak Located under the hulking Ajdovščina building just off a busy crossroads, this French-style bakery whips up tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, tempt a fair number of workers from the surrounding offices to extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared viennoiseries, gourmet bread, sandwiches and salads cost slightly more than the pre-packaged brands found in all the supermarkets, but are well-worth the premium. There’s also a second location at Njegoševa 6 near the hospital.QC-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 74, email@example.com, www.pekarna-zak.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 13:00. Closed Sun. €0.50 - 3.00. JS
Vegetarian Bazilika Bistro A Mecca for lovers of fresh, healthy, organic foods, Bazilika is located in a beautiful high-ceilinged space in the city centre opposite the Presidential Palace and just around the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts. While countless proprietors claim to use only fresh locally-sourced ingredients, Bazilika actually posts photos of daily visits to local farmers, markets and gardens to their social media pages, assuring patrons that the various sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, salads, soups, smoothies and other vegetarian and vegan-friendly treats that they turn out are as authentic as they are delectable. Daily 3-course lunch specials are written on the roll of brown recycled paper 36 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Where to eat behind the counter.QB-4, Prešernova 15, tel. +386 (0)1 244 62 75, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JABSW Govinda’s Tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood just north of the city centre, this oasis comes complete with a peaceful garden and is steeped in good karma. As well as being family friendly, students are looked after with generous portions, pregnant women get a 25% discount and its animal friendly aka vegetarian. The daily buffet features a range of cuisines including excellent Indian, and even meat-lovers will enjoy the wholesome and delectable vegetarian (vegan & gluten free) delights.QŽibertova 23, tel. +386 (0)59 058 381, email@example.com, www.govindas.si. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €2-9. PT NEW Loving Hut The world’s fastest growing (and perhaps only) international vegan fast food chain, Loving Hut has finally opened an outlet in the city centre two years after setting up a takeaway stand in Mestni Log. Located opposite the main bus and train station, stepping inside this oasis of peacefulness and serenity makes us feel healthier and more relaxed before we even order. Offering an assortment of vegan dishes, including a surprisingly delicious kebaps, burgers and Wiener schnitzel, Loving Hut is an attractive alternative to the usual fast food options found in these parts - even for non-vegans like us.QD-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel. +386 (0)68 126 970, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.lovinghut.si. Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €.
Around Ljubljana If you’re looking to get out of town and enjoy a traditional homecooked meal in the countryside - and we highly suggest that you do - the restaurants listed below are a great place to start! Gostilna Boter Situated in an beautifully restored old family home in the centre of Vrhnika - a quaint town some 20km down the A1 motorway on the way to the coast - Gostilna Boter offers all the charm and tradition of your typical Slovenian countryside restaurant, but is easier to find than most. Specialising in seafood and Mediterranean cuisine, the menu also contains several hearty central European dishes, as well as some exquisite pizzas fresh from a wood-fired oven. Call ahead to find out when the next live music evening will be taking place.QTržaška 6, Vrhnika, tel. +386 (0)1 750 41 00, email@example.com, www. boter-sp.si. Open Tues-Thur 12:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 12:0022:00, Sun & Holidays 12:00-20:00. Closed Mondays. PAILEB Gostilna Krištof One of the dozen or so Slovene restaurants that are perennially in the running for the title of the finest dining in the country, ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Bazilika Bistro proves that healthy organic food can be quite tasty
Krištof can be found in the village of Predoslje just next to Brdo Castle north of Kranj. True to it’s small town roots, the restaurant combines the best of rural ambience and charm with modern Slovenian cuisine, and the family that runs the place is said to have been the catering business for more than 700 years, so you can rest assured that you’re in good hands. The fresh seasonal menu is certified organic, and there are also many vegetarian and vegan dishes to choose from, all of which can be found in English (and with prices) on their website.QPredoslje 22, tel. +386 (0)4 234 10 30/+386 (0)41 358 786, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.gostilnakristof.si. Open 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Burek Nobel Burek A small kiosk close to the train and bus stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the street. Excellent value, excellent burek.QD-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. +386 (0)12 32 33 92. Open 24hrs. (€2). J6UXS Olimpija Not one of our personal favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about outside around the clock we’re in the minority. It was also the runaway winner of our online poll. The servings are huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to choose from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter being the overwhelming favourite among customers. Just around the corner from Bavarski Dvor.QD-2, Slovenska 58. Open 00:00 - 24:00. €2. JNXS facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
Gostilna Skaručna Opened in the village of the same name just north of Ljubljana by Slavko Žagar Sr back in 1975, to this day Skaručna has the reputation of satisfying each and every guest, which goes far beyond what is on the plates and in the glasses. The owner, Slavko Žagar Jr, is a jolly fellow and exceptional host, but also takes his cuisine very seriously. Fresh ingredients come directly from the nearby fields and forests, and even the wood that fires the open-air barbecue is carefully selected. In short, every meal at Skaručna is a unique, and often unforgettable, experience.QSkaručna 20, Vodice, tel. +386 (0)1 832 3080/+386 (0)40 799 810, email@example.com, www.skarucna.si. Open 13:0022:00. Closed Sun-Mon and holidays. Groups of 12 or more can make reservations for Sun with prior arrangement. A6ILB Gostišče Pri Poku Dating back to the late 18th century, Pri Poku is officially one of the oldest restaurants in Ljubljana, and perfectly combines its over 200 years of tradition with all the modern comforts and service that one would expect from a top-end restaurant in the 21st century. Guests are pampered with a varied seasonal cuisine, which - like Pri Poku itself - combine age-old family recipes with modern tastes, and an emphasis on fresh, home-grown organic ingredients. To get there you can either take a brief trip on the motorway to the Brezovica exit, or simply follow Tržaška Cesta a few kilometres southwest of the city. QPodpeška 1-3, Brezovica pri Ljubljani, tel. +386 (0)1 365 74 10, fax +386 (0)1 365 74 15, www.pripoku.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00, Sat-Sun by prior arrangement. PTAIL April - May 2014
Pod Vrbo Ziherlova 36 +386 (0)1 280 88 92 www.podvrbo.si
Atrium Pot Za Brdom 4 +386 (0)1 470 27 00 www.hotel.mons.si
Pr’ Noni Cesta v Gorice 1 +386 (0)1 24 25 820 www.prnoni.si
Pomf Trubarjeva 40 +386 (0)40 727 919 FB: HisaDobrotPomf
Bistro Zvezda Kongresni Trg 3 +386 (0)1 421 90 91 www.zvezdaljubljana.si diVino
River House Gallusovo Nabrežje 31 +386 (0)1 425 40 90 www.riverhouse.si
Rimska XXI Rimska 21 +386 (0)1 256 56 54 FB: gostilnicaXXI Pri Škofu Rečna 8 +386 (0)1 426 45 08 Skriti Kot Ajdovščina 4 +386 (0)1 430 22 06 www.skritikot.com
Ameriška 8 +386 (0)1 585 22 02 www.divino.si
Separé Cafe Koprska 92 +386 (0)1 244 16 34 www.separe.si
Harfa Koprska 98 +386 (0)1 423 24 11 www.harfa-restavracija.si
Sputnik Tržaška 128 +386 (0)1 42 32 372 www.sputnik.si
Hotel Cubo Slovenska 15 +386 (0)1 425 60 30 www.hotelcubo.com
Zajčja Dobrava Novo Polje III/27 +386 (0)1 54 74 806 www.zajcja-dobrava.com
Sokol Ciril-Metodov Trg 18 Origano +386 (0)14 39 68 55 Cesta na Vrhovce 4 www.gostilna-sokol.com +386 (0)51 400 500 www.origano.si Šestica Slovenska 40 Paradiž +386 (0)12 42 08 55 Podutiška 30 www.sestica.si +386 (0)1 518 13 88 www.paradiz-koseze.si Vodnikov Hram Vodnikov Trg 2 Plato +386 (0)12 34 52 60 Ajdovščina 1 www.vodnikov-hram.si +386 (0)1 230 84 80 www.plato.si
Allegria Nazorjeva 8 +386 (0)1 426 74 02 www.allegria.si
Plaza Bratislava 8 +386 (0)1 243 00 00 www.plazahotel.si
Argentino Šmartinska 152 +386 (0)1 523 36 30 www.argentino.si
10 v Pol Litijska 47 +386 (0)1 542 12 99 FB: SarajevskaCevabdzinica10VPol Čad Cesta na Rožnik 18 +386 (0)1 251 34 46 www.gostilna-cad.si Das Ist Valter Njegoševa 10 +386 (0)1 430 5195 www.dasistvalter.si Gostilna Vrbinc Peruzzijeva 105 +386 (0)8 205 82 50 www.alo-accommodationljubljana.si
Špajza Gornji Trg 28 Cubo +386 (0)1 425 30 94 Šmartinska 55 www.spajza-restaurant.si +386 (0)1 521 15 15 www.cubo-ljubljana.com Valvas’or Stari Trg 7 Gostilna As +386 (0)1 425 04 55 Čopova 5a, Knafljev www.valvasor.net Prehod +386 (0)1 425 88 22 Vander Urbani www.gostilnaas.si Krojaška 6-8 +386 (0)1 200 9000 JB www.vanderhotel.com Miklošičeva 17 +386 (0)1 433 13 58 SLOVENIAN www.jb-slo.com Druga Violina Stari Trg 21 Manna +386 (0)82 05 25 06 Eipprova 1a FB: drugaviolina.gostilna +386 (0)5 992 23 08 www.kulinarika-manna.si Gostilna Gorjanc Tržaška 330 Maxim +386 (0)1 423 11 11 Trg Republike 1 www.gdesignhotel.si +386 (0)51 28 53 35 www.maxi.si Gostilna na Gradu Grajska Planota 1 Pen Klub +386 (0)8 205 19 30 Tomšičeva 12 www.nagradu.si +386 (0)1 251 41 60 www.restavracija-penklub.si Gostilna Pečarič Pod Jezom 7 Pri Levu +386 (0)1 256 31 03 Vošnjakova 1 www.pecaric-sp.si +386 (0)1 432 70 89 www.prilevu.si Güjžina Mestni Trg 19 Pri Vitezu +386 (0)8 380 64 46 Breg 20 www.prekmurska-gostilna.si +386 (0)1 426 60 58 www.privitezu.si Jelen Celovška 462 Slon +386 (0)1 5161 545 Slovenska 34 www.pension-jelen.eu +386 (0)1 470 11 00 www.hotelslon.com Kuhinja Krušič Bezenškova 11 Strelec +386 (0)1 544 61 41 Grajska Planota 1 www.mesarstvo-krusic.si +386 (0)31 687 648 www.kaval-group.si
Photos courtesy of Bled Tourism
100 of Ljubljana’s Top Restaurants
Burger King Šmartinska 152 +386 (0)1 520 01 47 FB: BurgerKingSlovenija
Gurman Cesta na Loko 28 +386 (0)1 283 88 33 www.gurmanmomo.si Harambaša Vrtna 8 +386 (0)41 84 31 06 www.harambasa.si
FISH WORLD CUISINE
Keršič Frankopanska 1 +386 (0)1 2310 153
Cantina Mexicana Wolfova 4, Knafljev Prehod +386 (0)1 426 93 25 www.cantina.si
Rio-Momo Slovenska 28 +386 (0)31 751 751 www.riomomo.si
Cesarsko Mesto Litijska 76 +386 (0)1 544 45 00 www.cesarsko-mesto.si
Sarajevo ‘84 Nazorjeva 12 +386 (0)1 425 71 06 www.sarajevo84.si
Da Bu Da Šubičeva 1a +386 (0)1 425 30 60 www.dabuda.si
Sofra Dunajska 145 +386 (0)1 565 68 00 www.restavracijasofra.si
Laziz Prvomajski 1 +386 (0)51 615 540 www.laziz.si
Maharaja Vodnikova 35 +386 (0)30 605 560 www.maharaja.si
Aroma Ribji Trg 2 +386 (0)31 30 70 30 www.aroma-ljubljana.si
Shambala Križevniška 12 +386 (0)1 426 30 14 www.shambala.si Sushimama Wolfova 12 +386 (0)40 70 20 70 www.sushimama.si Yildiz Han Karlovška 19 +386 (0)1 426 57 17 www.yildiz-han.com
Azur Cesta na Brdo 33 +386 (0)1 423 24 23 www.azur-tratorija.si Foculus Gregorčičeva 3 +386 (0)1 421 92 95 www.foculus.si Jurman Zaloška 151 +386 (0)51 358 358 www.jurman-sp.si
Čupiterija Mestni Trg 4 +386 (0)59 712 369
Maru Vodnikova 155 +386 (0)30 200 222 www.maru.si
Marley & Me Stari Trg 9 +386 (0)8 380 66 10 www.marleyandme.si
Moysushi Mestni Trg 17 +386 (0)59 93 55 40 www.moysushi.com
Promenada Petkovškovo Nabrežje 9 +386 (0)8 383 10 82 www.restavracijapromenada.si
Namasté Breg 8 Parma +386 (0)1 425 01 59 www.restavracijanamaste.si Trg Republike 2 +386 (0)1 426 82 22 Rodizio do Brasil Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Trta Grudnovo Nabrežje 21 Brigad 1 +386 (0)1 426 50 66 +386 (0)40 316 341 www.trta.si www.brasil.si
Tabar Ribji Trg 6 +386 (0)31 764 063 www.tabar.si
Ljubljanski Dvor Dvorni Trg 1 +386 (0)1 251 65 55 FB: LjubljanskiDvor Osmica Nazorjeva 8 +386 (0)1 426 58 72 www.osmica.si
Krpan Ob Ljubljanici 24 +386 (0)1 521 12 20 www.gostilna-krpan.si Operna Klet Zupančičeva 2 +386 (0)1 252 70 03 www.operna-klet.si Ribca Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1 +386 (0)1 425 15 44 www.ribca.si Taverna Tatjana Gornji Trg 38 +386 (0)1 421 00 87 www.taverna-tatjana.si Valentin Vodnikov Trg 5 +386 (0)1 434 94 45
VEGETARIAN Ajdovo Zrno Trubarjeva 7 +386 (0)40 832 446 www.satwa.si
Bazilika Bistro Prešernova 15 +386 (0)1 244 62 75 www.bazilika.si Govinda’s Žibertova 23 +386 (0)59 058 381 www.govindas.si
Burrito Loco Slovenska 6 +386 (0)31 897 694 FB: burritolocoLJ CHuTy’S Gregorčičeva 10 +386 (0)83 899 772 chutys.com Falafel Trubarjeva 40 +386 (0)41 64 01 66 FB: Falafel.Ljubljana Frks Kongresni Trg 6 FB: frks.si Hitra Žlica Dalmatinova 2 www.hitrazlica.com Hood Burger Jamova 105 +386 (0)40 540 411 FB: hoodburger.ljubljana Hot Horse Celovška 25 (Tivoli Park) +386 (0)1 521 14 27 www.hot-horse.si Klobasarna Ciril-Metodov 15 +386 (0)51 605 017 www.klobasarna.si McDonald’s Čopova 14 +386 (0)1 251 12 60 www.mcdonalds.si
Loving Hut Nobel Burek Trg OF 14 Miklošičeva 30 +386 (0)68 126 970 FB: lovinghutljubljanacenter +386 (0)1 232 33 92 Piknik Trubarjeva 17 +386 (0)1 432 12 83 FB: PiknikTrubarjeva
Tandoori Trubarjeva 60 +386 (0)40 549 472 FB: TandooriLjubljana
Cafés Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés that line nearly every street. During the colder months things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on coffee’s significant other. The most popular places can be found along the Ljubljanica river on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, but with so many options to choose from just wandering around until you find a place you fancy is never a bad option. And since the line between cafés, bars and pubs can sometime be less than obvious, we’ve included the latter on the pages below (and vice versa) if they’re somewhere you can comfortable get a coffee or tea during the day. Bazilika Shop & Cafe Right next to the courthouse and in one the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is one of the closest things you’ll find to an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter, you feel how you leave the bustle, noise and grey of the city behind and are welcomed by very soothing music and décor. A great place to come and study, use your laptop or just surf the net. Try the excellent coffee and sandwiches. Great service too.QD-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. +386 (0)41 530 539, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJSW
The best coffee in Ljubljana :) fresh sendwiches, croissants, fresh cakes, selected wines
Coffeeshop Kapuciner Kongresni trg 15, Ljubljana www.kapuciner.si E-mail: email@example.com www.facebook.com/kapuciner.kavarna
Open: mon. - sat. 7.00-24.00, sun. 8.00-22.00 40 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
has a new “home”
If you like ice-cream, and who doesn’t, then this is your place. Along with the usual coffee, tea, wine and beer, Cacao serves up scoops of ice-cream which you can enjoy indoors or out on the terrace overlooking the river. Fruit and ice-cream is around €5 a serving and if you want a bit of a kick with your cream, go for one of the alcohol-spiked varieties. There are also plenty of child-friendly shakes and servings available, as well as a mouthwatering selection of cakes and other desserts.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 430 17 71, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.cacao. si. Open 08:00 - 22:00 Summertime 08:00 - 00:00. PTJA6UGBSW Café Plato A stylish café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, email@example.com, plato.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3). PTJA6GBKSW Caffe Promenada Having a drink along the banks of the Ljubljanica is a quintessential Ljubljana experience, and one of the best spots for it is at Café Promenada just across the river from the central market. Sitting at Promenada represents the city’s laid back lifestyle at its best - relax over a morning coffee or enjoy a glass of wine in the evening while watching the river and pedestrians flow by.QPetkovškovo Nabrežje 9, tel. +386 (0)8 383 10 82. Kapuciner Sitting alone on the south side of Kongresni Trg, Kapuciner is a relaxing spot to grab a drink especially when the sun is shining down on the large promenade. This sleek all day café and bar satisfies caffeine cravings all day long, whilst they also have a selection of tasty sweet treats. Kapuciner’s drinks list is better than most around town with some fine local wines and a few good beers to choose from.QC-4, Kongresni Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)83 815 604, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.kapuciner.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Kavarna in Slaščičarna Maxi The café and pastry shop on the ground floor of the Maxi Market shopping centre is one of the more regal places ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
You can taste it from the end of September in Ljubljana market, under beautiful Plečnik Arcades. Daily fresh and with contemporary recipe, the cake is made from traditional Slovenian ingredients. facebook.com\TortaLjubljana email@example.com +386 (0)41 272 433 / + 386 (0)30 300 618 Cake Ljubljana, Adamič Lundrovo nabrežje 1, Ljubljana
in town enjoyCake some coffeeoglas.indd and cake. 1It’s central locaNEWto HOME Ljubljana tion makes it a popular spot for meetings, and the proximity to the National Assembly, the headquarters of the country’s largest bank and various embassies guarantees that you’ll be rubbing elbows with some of Slovenia’s real power brokers.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)5 128 53 42, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.maxi. si. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PAUBSW Kavarna Tromostovje Here near Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), alongside the river, you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This open-air café is blessed with perhaps the best location in the city and as such it seems to always be full with locals and tourists sitting with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream, soaking up local color, and sometimes even watching a daytime concert on the square. QD-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)1430 12 18, seam@ damajanty.com, www.damajanty.si. Open 08:00 01:00. TJ6UENBXSW Le Petit Café On a leafy yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals and clued-up visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian without even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to
Torta Ljubljana This takeaway cake shop in the Plečnik Arcade has much more to it than meets the eye. To begin with its eponymous Ljubljana Cake is the only sweet we know of in town that comes with its own creation myth, which involves a fickle lord living in Ljubljana Castle, a beautiful daughter waiting to be wed, and a plucky local chef who concocts the perfect recipe. The retrostyle cake has been recreated using only typical Slovenian ingredients (including gluten free 100% buckwheat flour) and can be purchased in several sizes, all of which come in custom designed reusable packaging. The cakes can now also be found at Kavarna SEM, Nebotičnik and Platana.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)30 300 618/+386 (0)41 272 433, email@example.com. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
be this place, and it is easy to see why. Also9/12/13 one of 3:52 the only PM places in town to get a proper breakfast, while other light snacks (toasted sandwiches, etc) are served throughout the day.QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. +386 (0)1 251 25 75/+386 (0)51 605 400, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.lepetit. si. Open 07:30 - 01:00. PTJA6UGBSW Nebotičnik Café After being shuttered for nearly a decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the public. Occupying the top floor of Ljubljana’s famed Nebotičnik (or Skyscraper) building - which was the highest residential structure in Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s 360 degree views from the Alps to the castle to the hills in the south are truly breathtaking, and the coffee, cocktails and homemade cakes are worth trying as well. This is a must see stop for all visitors.QC-3, Štefanova 1, tel. +386 (0)40 60 17 87, email@example.com, www.neboticnik. si. Open Sun-Wed 09:00-01:00, Thur-Sat 09:00-03:00. PA6USW Plaza Café More than just a space for guests to wait for morning taxis to enjoy a morning coffee on the terrace, the ground floor café at the Plaza Hotel is popular meeting place for local businessmen, as well as shoppers looking for a more sophisticated atmosphere than afforded elsewhere in Ljubljana’s massive BTC retail district. In addition to coffee, drinks, cocktails and snacks, daily lunches are also offered.QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, info@ plazahotel.si, www.plazahotel.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PALW STA Travel Café Connected to the Ljubljana branch of STA travel via a doorway at the back, this centrally-located café is a popular destination in its own right - and it’s not hard to see why. A huge first floor terrace is loaded with comfy wooden furniture including wicker couches and even a couple of sun beds, and despite the proximity to Ljubljana’s main road you can still enjoy quiet drink in the sun. Inside is just as comfortable, and they’ve recently added hot sandwiches, pizzas and other light snacks to the menu. It also wouldn’t be a travel café without the bi-monthly presentations of exotic locales around the globe - check the chalk board for April - May 2014
Nightlife Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby. Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking home on your own late at night.
Bars Čupiterija Hijo De Puta This place may be located on Mestni Trg in the heart of Old Ljubljana, but don’t let that fool you: it’s the epitome of funky - in a good a way. First of all it also goes by the name Hijo de Puta, a mildly vulgar Spanish phrase (if you’re not sure what it means we don’t want to ruin the surprise). Then there’s the interior, a dizzying hodge podge of Gaudi-inspired colours and textures spreading through several rooms and multiple levels. It’s also one of the only places in town where we feel obligated to forego our usual beer and whiskey and order cocktails to go along with the nightly tapas.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)59 712 369, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBS upcoming events.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 439 16 90, fax +386 (0)1 439 16 95, email@example.com, www.staljubljana.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PTJ6GBXW Twenty Caffe If you value a good view as much as we do, there’s no better café in Ljubljana Twenty in BTC City. Holding the distinction of being the highest café in the city, a title it will likely have for some time given that it’s on the top floor of the tallest building in Slovenia (the so-called Crystal Palace), it offers views that would otherwise only be possible from a plane. Not content to rely solely on its location, it’s also well-known to have some of the best gourmet desserts in town, which can appropriately be described as heavenly. Smoothies, panini and the usual assortment of drinks are also available.QAmeriška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 585 22 80/+386 (0)31 768 062, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. twentycaffe.si. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Zvezda A bustling café frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with
a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town. They also have a second location on the ground floor of Hotel Slon, and another in Hala 12 in BTC.QC-3, Wolfova 14, tel. +386 (0)1 421 90 90, email@example.com, www.zvezdaljubljana. si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 BTC Hala 12 open 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. (€2.80-4.50). PTJAUGBSW
Coffee & Ice Cream Sladka Jama A contender for the best ice cream in town, Sladka Jama is a hidden gem located a 10-minute walk north of the train station. Their quality ice creams feature unique flavours, like pine nut ‘pinjolata’, and they also have a great selection of cakes and biscuits, as well as takeaway coffee. While it doesn’t have seating, the large park and kids’ play area nearby make it the perfect place to grab an ice cream on a sunny day.QŠtihova 25, tel. +386 (0)1 232 25 66/+3866 (0)31 374 094, sladkajama.si. Open 09:00-19:00 (21:00 during in summer). Closed Sun.
Kavarna Maček Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular with families toting young children during the weekends.QD-4, Krojaška 5, tel. +386 (0)14 25 37 91, www.sobe-macek.si. Open 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. TJA6UGBSW Klub Daktari Sharing its name with the Swahili word for doctor, we’re not sure if there’s a connection, but the place always cures us of any bad mood we’re in. Located next to several other bars near the entrance to the funicular railway, Daktari re-
opened in 2012 after more than a year of renovations - a labour of love from the sociable owners, who are usually on hand chatting with customers. The bar exudes an old-time ambience and charm that is a rarity these days: restored antique furniture, shelves full of books, a player piano in the corner and a stage that is occasionally used for live music sets, jam sessions, theatre, cabaret and an eclectic mix of other cultural events.QD-3, Krekov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)64 166 212, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.daktari.si. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJAEBX Octopus Caffe & Club They’ve been known to find some strange things in the Ljubljana river, but as far as we know an octopus has not been one of them. However, this newly opened café and bar of same name is just about as close as you can get to the water without getting wet. Located within Plečnik’s famous colonnaded arcade, there’s plenty of outside seating right on the corner of the central market and Mesarski Most (Butcher’s Bridge), and a second large terrace hidden in the shade below the bridge itself. Fresh fruit smoothies are the house specialty during the day, while colourful cocktails are the most common sight in the evenings.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 5, tel. +386 (0)70 824 728, email@example.com. Open 07:00 - 03:00. Prulček Bar Surrounded by apartment blocks in the residential neighbourhood of Prule, this spunky outfit is yet more evidence of why you should never judge a book by its cover (or in this case a bar by its uninspiring social-era façade). Since it opened in 2012, Prulček has quietly become one of the city’s foremost venues for live music, with its Wednesday night jazz sessions routinely packing the house and carrying on well past the time when responsible working people have gone to bed. And to top things off, their beer selection is on par with any other bar in town. Check their frequently updated Facebook page for more info about upcoming events.QD-5, Prijateljeva 2, bar@prulcek. si, www.prulcek.si. Open 06:30 - 23:30. Rollbar-Karting BTC Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart
Many more cafés online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 42 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
April - May 2014
racing circuit. There are no drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120km/h, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65km/h.QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18), tel. +386 (0)1 585 25 70/+386 (0)51 603 333, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.indoor-karting.com. Open 07:30 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AUEGBXW Sputnik Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro furniture with lots of beautiful-looking people sitting on it, ice-cold beer and cocktails, a long, long bar and waitresses with even longer legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik transforms itself during the evenings into a much buzzier place with occasional special events.QI-4, Tržaška 128, tel. +386 (0)51 627 000, fax +386 (0)12 56 67 95, email@example.com, www.sputnik. si. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Fri 06:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PA6ULEGBXW Žmauc Ask any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 251 03 24, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6GB
If you’d like to party well into the morning, En Pub in Šiška is one of your top choices
44 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
En Pub If you’d like to experience the best of Belgrade’s legendary party scene without the hassle of a ten-hour train ride south, then En Pub in Šiška is one of the best options for an all-night Balkan-style party in the Slovene capital. Friday nights feature live bands and DJs playing a mix of fun Balkan music and international hits, while Saturdays see Serbian bands and DJs come to town. Both nights just about guarantee a packed house dancing away until the place finally closes at six in the morning. For a totally different take on Ljubljana, En Pub simply has to be experienced to be believed.QH-1, Celovška 150, tel. +386 (0)1 514 11 27, email@example.com, www.enpub.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 06:00, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. PTA6UGBXW Gala Hala As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and audiences, and from May till October a summer stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Check their website for a complete list of upcoming shows.QF-1, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 43 17 063, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.galahala.com. Klub K4 Twice voted the best club in Ljubljana by In Your Pocket readers, if you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Klub K4. A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4 also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. Check out their Facebook page or website for detailed programme info.QB-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 212 292, info@ klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. Open , Wed 23:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PJAG Mr Stefan Braun First opened in Belgrade in 2003, this now legendary nightspot has somehow managed to remain one of the hottest clubs in Europe’s top party city ever since - and is guaranteed to be found on the itineraries of serious Slovene clubbers during their trips to the Serbian capital. To the delight of this same crowd, Mr Stefan Braun recently celebrated its 10th anniversary by opening a new club in Ljubljana, which can be found in BTC next the Kolosej cineplex. Check out their official Facebook page for the most current info.QŠmartinska 152, BTC City. Nebotičnik There’s no better place in the city to enjoy a cocktail (or a beer or a cigar for that matter) than the bar and lounge ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
at the top of the Nebotičnik building. The 11th floor has been renovated in line with the original design from back in 1933, meaning dark and atmospheric with lots of wood, stone and ample couches. While the 12th floor has a more modern feel to it, with white leather chairs and an open terrace offering unparalleled views of the city and beyond.QC-3, Štefanova 1, tel. +386 (0)5 907 03 95, email@example.com, www.neboticnik.si. Open Sun-Wed 09:00-01:00, Thur-Sat 09:00-03:00. PJA Orto Bar A combined bar and live music venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious world of rock music, filled nightly with a well-behaved crowd in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking advantage of one of the few regular live music venues in the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long and thin, there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel.QE-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 232 16 74, www.orto-bar.com. Open Tue-Wed 21:00-04:00, Thur-Sat 21:00-05:00. PALEGBX Top Six Klub Located six floors above Ljubljana’s main thoroughfare (hence the name), outside it offers some of the best views in the city, while on the inside the contemporary interior design provides an exclusive ambience that can’t be found elsewhere. There is a full slate of parties throughout the week, and some of the most sought after VIP sections in the city.QA-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)40 66 77 22, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.topsixclub.si. Club open WedSat 23:00-05:00 and by prior arrangement. Lounge open Mon-Fri 08:00-19:00. Closed Sun. Admission: Free before 24:00 and €6 after. PJAEGBKW
Pubs Holidays’ Pub Kilkenny and Guinness on tap inside a mildly Irish-themed bar complete with booth seating for intimate drinking sessions and a predominantly younger crowd. If you’re just in on an EasyJet flight from England and are looking for something in the city centre that resembles where you drink at home, this one should provide everything you need.QB-2, Slovenska 36, tel. +386 (0)7 082 47 28. Open 07:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PALEGCW
Have a coffee, watch the match or join the party at Parlament Pub
Parlament Pub Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and (you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg.QC-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 32 43. Open 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW Patrick’s Irish Pub Ljubljana’s quintessential Irish pub is popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, and over the years we’ve personally spent many a night entertaining visitors, watching sports on the big screen and generally drinking too much here. They’ve got (arguably) the largest selection of beer in town, with some 90 varieties to choose from, and often host events such as live Irish music concerts, pub quizzes and beer tastings. Find it down a small cobbled alleyway just off Trubarjeva Ulica.QD-3, Prečna 6, tel. +386 (0)1 230 17 68/+386(0) 41 581 333, info@ irishpub-ljubljana.si, www.irishpub-ljubljana.si. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PTJA6EGSW
Wine Bars Dvorni Bar This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more geared towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00.QB-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)12 51 12 57, email@example.com, www.dvornibar. net. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15). PTJHA6UEGBKXSW April - May 2014
What to see
What to see top 10 sights Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) One of the most photographed sights in Ljubljana, Zmajski Most, or Dragon Bridge, is also one of our personal favourites, topped with four ferocious dragons.QE-3, Resljeva Cesta. Kongresni Trg Completely renovated in 2011, Kongresni Trg is home to some impressive buildings, and also frequently hosts events. The name is often used by locals to refer to both the square and the adjacent Zvezda Park.
The springtime is perfect for taking a river boat cruise, enjoying the scenery or just relaxing at one of many cafés along the banks of the Ljubljanica river in the centre of the old town, Anastasios71/Shutterstock
Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retroYugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.
Bridges Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) Perhaps Ljubljana’s most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.QD-3. Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) Since it opened in 1901, Zmajski Most has been locked in a fierce competition with the castle and the conspicuously pink Franciscan Church for the title of Most Photographed Sight in Ljubljana. At any given moment during daylight hours (and only slightly less frequently at night) there is sure to be at least a person or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding either side of the bridge 46 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
or the smaller griffins that adorn the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it does amuse us whenever we walk past.QE-3, Resljeva Cesta.
Buildings Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) The 15th century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages, and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the original medieval coat of arms on the building. Inside, you can view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 11 71, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) Believe it or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933. The rooftop café and lounge has also finally reopened after being shuttered for nearly a decade - providing some of the best views in the city.QC-3, Štefanova 1. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Križanke Consisting of several venues located inside a former monastery complex, the summer theatre is another Plečnik creation and one of the most atmospheric concert venues in the city. Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad) Definitely the most dominant sight in the city, in addition to its extremely photogenic appearance Ljubljana’s famed castle is home to a couple of excellent restaurants, exhibitions spaces and other venues. QD-4, Grajska Planota 1. Metelkova Mesto F-1/2, Masarykova 24. Since squatters moved into these former army barracks in 1993, Metelkova has slowly grown into an established nightlife centre with various bars, clubs and arts spaces. QF-1/2 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
Prešernov Trg It’s no exaggeration to say that Prešeren Sqaure is not only the centre of Ljubljana, but truly the spiritual centre of the Slovene nation - and more practically the de facto meeting point in the city. QD-3, Prešeren Square. River Boat Cruises Slowly meandering through the old town, the Ljubljanica river offers an interesting angle from which to take in the many sights, with a number of tourist boats obligingly plying its waters. Tivoli Park Ljubljana’s central park, Tivoli offers countless paths, fields and play areas, as well as forest trails on Rožnik hill. Facilities includes sports centres and a couple museums. QA/B-2. Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) Arguably Plečnik’s most famous work (though we would argue otherwise), the famed Triple Bridge connects Prešeren Square with the old town on the other side of the river.QD-3. Tržnica Ljubljana’s large open-air central market is at its liveliest on Saturday mornings, when seemingly half of the city comes here to buy a week’s supply of fruit and vegetables directly from local farmers. April - May 2014
What to see Ljubljana castle
Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska Planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions. The main points of interest for the visitor are the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the government in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Castle screens a 12-minute film showing the interesting and informative history of the castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city. Underneath the tower, tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard, is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija), which is one of the oldest parts of the castle. It was renovated in Baroque style and in 1747 decorated with the coats-of-arms of over sixty rulers, including Herman and Ulrich of Celje, Henrik of Gorizia County, and Krištof Rauber, a bishop of Ljubljana. A new and beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene History is now also open for visitors - see more info under Museums & Galleries. The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, restaurant and souvenir shop. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre and open market.QD-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 93, info-center@ ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. OctoberMarch 10:00-21:00, April-September 09:00-23:00.. Full combined ticket €5-8, half combined ticket €36, Guided tour €6-10. Special discounts for families. 48 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
What to see Cemeteries
Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city.QL/M-2, Med Hmeljniki 2, tel. +386 (0)1420 17 00, email@example.com, www.zale.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00 AprilSeptember 07:00-21:00.
Old Ljubljana is the city’s historical part of town and practically a monument in itself. Fountains, the town hall, some restaurants and local designer shops are located in old buildings that are very well preserved. The Triple Bridge “Tromostovje” is one of Ljubljana’s trademarks designed by Joze Plecnik. “Zmajski most “ or the Dragon Bridge is another main bridge in Ljubljana, guarded by four detailed dragon statues, which became the symbol of the city. But the most prominent of all, the medieval Ljubljana Castle was built on a prehistoric site on top of a hill, which dominates the cityscape. You can go up by a funicular railway for €2-3.
Churches As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a number of famous churches dating far back to the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian architecture. Aside from during mass, most of the main churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00. Cathedral (Stolnica Sv. Nikolaja) With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weatherworn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. QD-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1234 26 70, firstname.lastname@example.org, lj-stolnica.rkc.si. Franciscan Church (Frančiškanski Samostan) Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fashion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church dominates Prešernov Trg like a big pink birthday cake. Part of a larger complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few treats inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day. QD-3, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)1242 93 00. Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) Built alongside the southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth visiting during services, daily at 10:00. QB-2, Prešernova, tel. +386 (0)1252 40 02. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
France Prešeren Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts from his writing around the base.QD-3, Pršernov trg.
Museums & Galleries While Ljubljana’s museums and galleries are likely not the top reason for most visitors coming to the city, the breadth and scope of what’s on offer is more than enough to keep you busy for days on end. City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history. Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history. Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and much more besides. Check out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions.QC-4, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1241 25 00, email@example.com, www.mestnimuzej.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. English-language guided tours last Sun at 11:00. Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej Sodobne Umetnosti Metelkova) Along with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a branch of the National Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art rounds out Ljubljana’s newly christened Museum Quarter located between Metelkova and Tabor in the centre of the city. Nearly two years of renovations has transformed the former administrative building into the city’s most dynamic arts space, with rooms of all shapes and sizes situated around a vaulting central atrium. The museum is focussed on works from the 1960s to the present day, and boasts a permanent collection devoted to Eastern Europe’s postwar avant garde facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
Urbana Ljubljana Tourist Card Rated as one of Europe’s best city cards, Tourism Ljubljana’s Urbana offers free admission to all of the city’s main sights as well as free unlimited transport LPP’s extensive urban bus network. The card can be purchased at most hotels and all three of Ljubljana’s Tourist Information Centres (on Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje, at the main train station and on Krekov Trg). Prices are €23/30/35 for 24/48/72 hours, and the card - which contains RFID chip - is activated upon its first use. Order online and save 10% of the regular price!Qwww. visitljubljana.si. 24-hour card €23, 48-hour card €30, 72-hour card €35. movement, as well as a selection of works from its sister institution, the Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must-see for art fans.QF-2, Maistrova 3, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.mg-lj. si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 adults, €2.50 students/pensioners, €3.50 groups. National Gallery (Narodna Galerija) Inside Czech architect František Edmund Škabrout’s fabulous late 19th-century neo-Renaissance masterpiece with an additional modern wing thrown on for good measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition in the building focuses on European painting, and includes some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has several good books and postcards.QB/C2, Prešernova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 241 54 18, info@ng-slo. si, www.ng-slo.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.5-7. National Museum of Contemporary History (Muzej Novejše Zgodovine Slovenije) If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it’s here. This fascinating museum inside a wonderful 18th-century mansion presents the history of Slovenia from the period April - May 2014
What to see around the start of WWI until the Slovenian Presidency of the EU in 2008. Using a combination of well-presented exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation through and between the two world wars and the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years. The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991.QB-1, Celovška 23, tel. +386 (0)1 300 96 10, email@example.com, www.muzej-nz.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon Open Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.50 for adults, €2.50 for children, €8 family.
Walking along the Path of Remembrance (see page 12) that winds its way for some 35km around Ljubljana is a popular activity and great way to see neighbourhoods outside the centre, photo courtesy of Tourism Ljubljana
Tourist information Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (TIC) A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, fax +386 (0)13 06 12 04, tic@visitljubljana. si, www.visitljubljana.com. Open daily Oct-May 08:00-19:00, June-Sept 08:00-21:00. Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC) Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit larger and usually less crowded than the main branch located a few hundred metres away opposite Prešeren Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, brochures and general information for the entire country. Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased, and the staff will gladly give you a run down of the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also available for only €8 per day, and are a great way to see more of the city.QC-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 306 45 75, fax +386 (0)1 306 45 80, stic@ visitljubljana.com, www.visitljubljana.com. Open Oct-May 08:00-19:00, Sat, Sun & holidays 09:0017:00, Jun-Sept 08:00-21:00 daily. 50 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
National Museum of Slovenia (Narodni Muzej) Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1821. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions.QB-3, Prešernova 20, tel. +386 (0)12 41 44 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.nms.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4-8.5. Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej) The Slovene Ethnographic Museum (SEM) - a museum “about people, for people”, prides itself as being the link between the past and the present, between our own and other cultures, between nature and civilisation. A central museum of ethnology, a museum of dialogue, open, active and hospitable with dedicated public services. The museum is located in a new urban cultural centre of Ljubljana known as part of former military barracks of the Metelkova area, which have undergone complete restoration, and in the future will form the centre of Ljubljana’s arts scene. Through two permanent exhibitions, diverse annual temporary exhibitions and other events - Slovene, European and non-European - SEM presents and reports on the traditional culture of Slovenia and other cultures of the world in creative and imaginative ways. Find the entrance in the large square at the back of the building.QF-2, Metelkova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 300 87 00, etnomuz@etno-muzej. si, www.etno-muzej.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50/2.50 (adults/students). Free admission the last Sunday of the month.
Parks & Gardens Botanical Gardens (Botanični Vrt) Nearly 200 years old, this garden is part of the biology department of Ljubljana University and has 2 hectares of protected landscape, with over 4500 species of native and foreign plants. Guided tours of groups over 15 people are possible for a small fee and when booked 10 days in advance.QL-4, Ižanska 15, ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Ljubljana celebrates 2000 years of Emona Exactly 2000 years ago, in what is now the city centre of modern Ljubljana, the Roman colony of Emona was constructed. As first urban settlement in the Ljubljana area, the outpost played an important role in the defence systems of the Roman Empire, and flourished until the 5th century. This year Ljubljana celebrates its 2000th anniversary with a special cultural programme. Visitors can discover and experience Emona on special guided tours, which even include tastings of ancient Roman cuisine. In museums, galleries and open-air sites there will be various interesting exhibitions, including costumed performances that will carry spectators back to the 1st century, workshops for children and adults, as well as lots of other events, more info about which can be found at www.visitljubljana.com.
21 May - 26 Oct 2014, Cankarjev Gallery Aquae Iasae This exhibition will present the latest archeological discoveries from the Varaždin spas in Croatia. 28 May - 14 Sept & 11 June - 31 Aug, Ljubljana Castle Ljubljana Urban Development Mutlimedia exhibition presenting the diverse history of urban development in the Ljubljana area.
22-24 Aug 2014, Kongresni Trg & Zvezda Park For three days in August Emona will come to life in Kongresni trg and Zvezda park, with Roman citizens, legionnaires and indigenous people settling there. Costumed societies from Slovenia and abroad will recreate events from the time of Emona. You will witness life in a Roman camp, displays of arts and crafts, dances and culinary skills as well as roman military skills and gladiator fights. You will also be able to buy artisan products from the roman market and sample Roman refreshments in an ancient tavern.
Getting a taste of Roman Emona
Learn about the archeological heritage of Emona on a guided tour through the streets of the city centre and the City Museum of Ljubljana. Schedule: 1 Mar - 30 Apr, Thurs at 16:00 (except in the case of rain) Price: €14, children (4-12) €7
Experiencing the Roman city of Emona
Experience the remnants of Roman Emona accompanied by Roman legionnaires and a Roman guide. Visit archeological parks, take a look in the City Museum of Ljubljana, and try old Roman specialities. Schedule: 1 May - 30 Sept, Wed and Fri at 16:00 (except in the case of rain) Price: €15, children (4-12) €7.50
Experiencing the Roman city of Emona by torchlight
Go 2000 years in the past and discover life Roman Emona at night by torchlight. Visitors are accompanied by a Roman legionnaire and led by a Roman guide, who will unveil the rich heritage of Roman Ljubljana at archeological sites and hidden corners of the city, where you can also try old Roman specialities. Schedule: 1 May - 30 Sept, Thur and Sat at 20:00 (except in the case of rain) Price: €16, children (4-12) €8 All tours are in both Slovene and English, and start at TIC on Stritarjeva Ulica, lasting 2hrs. Group tours in Slovene, English, German and Spanish can also be arranged on request starting at €10 per person. For more information and tickets contact TIC at tel. 01 306 1215, email email@example.com, or see www.visitljubljana. com.
What to see tel. +386 (0)14 27 12 80, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. botanicni-vrt.si. Open 07:00-19:00, Jul-Aug 07:00-20:00, November-March 07:00-17:00. Admission free for individuals, €1-2,5 guided views (€35-50/group). Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) Much like Ljubljana itself, and even Slovenia as a whole, the Ljubljana Zoo succeeds in fitting a lot of interesting, entertaining and educational sights all in one small easily manageable package. While it can’t compete with some of the much larger and better known zoos in Europe in terms of scale, there’s an equally diverse range of animals, and perhaps an even more innovative programme of activities, including at least a few things that we guarantee you won’t find anywhere else. Some of the most popular animals are conveniently housed near the main entrance, including the Californian sea lions, who playfully demonstrate their aquatic skills (and love of fish) twice a day for amazed spectators. One of our personal favourites are the clan of meerkats that always seem to be up to something and are super cute whilst doing it. You’ll notice one of them at all times standing on the highest rock on the lookout for birds of prey and other dangers. Other crowd pleasers nearby are the giraffes, red pandas, leopards and tigers, the latter being new arrivals at the very end of August 2013.QI-3, Večna Pot 70, tel. +386 (0)1 244 21 88, email@example.com, www.zoo.si. Open daily 09:00-16:00 in JanFeb, 09:00-17:00 in Mar & Oct, 09:00-18:00 in Apr & Sept, and 09:00-19:00 May-Aug. Admission €7 for adults, €6 student/seniors, €4-5 children, €2 persons with disabilities, €1.5 dogs. Free for children under 2.
Slocally.com In much the same way that the Slow Food movement revolutionised the way people view the experience of enjoying a good meal, the cleverly named Slocally.com aims to promote a wider movement of Slow Tourism in Slovenia, and offers dozens of unique activities for visitors to participate in - from tasting locally produced foods and wines on family-run farms to experiencing traditional local events and fairs to taking part in a diverse variety of hands-on workshops. We’re not exaggerating when we say that there’s likely no better or more convenient way to get to know Slovenia. Detailed descriptions and clearly indicated prices can be found on the very informative website, and the passionate creator of the project, Vesna Velišček, is always happy to answer any questions you may have.QFrankopanska 29, tel. +386 (0)41 432 488, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.slocally.com. 52 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
What to see Tivoli Park Tivoli is where the people of Ljubljana who don’t leave the city spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place for the general health and recreation of the city’s population, at some five square kilometres, Ljubljana’s gargantuan bucolic lung - literally two streets west of the city centre - is so packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available for rent from various points throughout the park during the summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will bring the bike back. As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area, Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights including the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene national identity.QA/B-2.
River Cruises Barka Ljubljanica No trip to Ljubljana is complete without taking a waterbased tour, and the handmade wooden boat operated by the young team at Laker Craft is easily the most attractive of all the crafts plying the waters of the Ljubljanica. Even for those who live here, it’s like viewing the city for the first time, drawing ones attention to details that are invisible from solid ground. A standard ride lasts just under an hour, and offers views of most of the old town’s major sights from a unique vantage point, and private trips can also be arranged, offering a unique way to impress business clients or have an unforgettable romantic evening. The 10m flat-bottomed vessel is constructed of solid larch and oak wood, and can host up to 50 people at a time, while catering can also be arranged through a number of local restaurants. Moored just next to Novi Trg along the redeveloped Breg waterfront, it’s just a few minutes’ walk from parking garage at Kongresni Trg. QBreg 2, tel. +386 (0)41 386 945, info@barka-ljubljanica. si, www.barka-ljubljanica.si. Operates 10:00-21:00 from May-Oct and 11:00-21:00 from Nov-Jan. Rides €8 per person, children under 12 free. Private hire from €120.
Lipica Stud Farm Lipica Stud Farm has flourished tremendously since its conception over 400 years ago. Set amongst beautiful natural surroundings,it is not only home to more than 350 Lipizzaner horses, but also very rich in history. Since its foundation by the Habsburg Archduke Charles II in 1580, Lipica has become one of the most prominent attractions Slovenia has to offer. One of the many reasons this stud farm stands so proudly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable and distinguished horses have taken a major part in the development of this amazing establishment since the very beginning, and are reputed for having an eagerness to learn. Best of all they have been particularly well-trained in the art of riding, which has enabled a large assortment of activities and events to occur frequently, making now more than a fine time to pay a visit. To put it simply, Lipikum museum excels in portraying the amazing Lipizzaner through modern presentations, with both interactive displays and classical exhibits. It will leave you knowing more than you could hope to, and all through a pleasant and amusing experience for both adults and children. The Stud Farm also offers a nice and informative tour (available in English, Italian, German, Croatian, French and Slovene), where friendly guides will see that you are well informed about Lipica’s most beloved beast, and extensive history how of how it came to be. For centuries Lipizzaners have incorporated carriage drawing into their area of expertise. Now, you can take a carriage ride through Lipica’s colourful and peaceful atmosphere of groomed grounds, with your own friendly carriage driver.
Ladjica Ljubljana One of the most interesting and popular way to tourists (or locals for that matter) to see Ljubljana is from the surface of the Ljubljanica river, which winds its way through the heart of the city, passing most of the major sites along the way. One of the the longest running river boat tour operators is Ladjica Ljubljana. With two boats they offer up to nine scheduled trips per day, leaving from the pier at Ribji Trg (just steps from Tromostovje Bridge along Cankarjevo ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
To get a little more active, Lipica Stud Farm hosts a variety of invigorating horse riding programmes, as well as lessons for more advanced riders. If you ever imagined yourself as a brave knight of old then you just might want to seize the days and give it a try! On a side-note, they also offer pony riding lessons for kids between three and seven years old, where, for a very reasonable price, the little one will learn the basics of riding horses, and more importantly, how to treat them. At the end of a tiring and eventful day, retreat to the comfort of your accommodation, where you can enjoy various delicacies of the Karst, and relay in the peace of the secluded location, resting up for the next day’s learning, riding, show or indeed onward journey. By virtue of the ample facilities in the main centre, Lipica in as excellent destination either for all manner of conferences, or to get married. And last but not least, it would be folly not to mention the classical riding school! The pride of the Lipica Stud Farm the cream of the crop stallions training their elegant trots, turns and other skills. The training sessions are open to spectators and of course there is a busy programme of equestrian events and shows to be considered when planning your visit, including the following: Day of the Lipizzaner (18 May), FEI International Dressage Competition (23-25 May), FEI International Driving Competition (27-29 June) and Days of the Lipica Stud Farm (12-14 September). Event or not, anyone with even a passing interest in the long faced beauties should not leave Slovenia without paying Lipica a visit!QLipica 5, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 739 1580, fax +386 (0)5 739 1730, email@example.com, www.lipica.org. April - May 2014
What to see
Treasure trove of impressive history
Welcome to Croatia! A land whose rich cultural heritage is not only discovered from within the walls of numerous museums, galleries and churches (many of which are UNESCO World Heritage List sites), but also in magical places on the Mediterranean, where even the shortest stroll becomes a journey down a staircase thousands of years old. Take a journey through a history that is at the same time turbulent, exciting and glorious. Whether walking along an intricate grid of narrow white stone streets and alleys, or revelling in the teeming life of the port towns of Istria, Kvarner or Dalmatia, or climbing the green hills of central Croatia to the fairy-like fortresses and castles, each step is an ever fresh experience, made special by the fact that on her territory as many as four cultural circles meet, intertwine and complement one anNabrežje) and heading south all the way to Špica, before making the return trip to Dragon Bridge on the other side of the city centre. Guided tours are at 12:00 and 16:00 every day, and a special ‘romantic ride’ leaves at 21:00. Tickets can be purchased in advance at the Tourist Information Centre, of at the departure point, and groups can also arrange private tours outside of the regular schedule.QD-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje, www.ladjica.si. Departures every day of the year at 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00, 19:00, 20:00 and 21:00. Tickets with/without guide €10/8 for adults, €5/4 children. Romantic ride €15.
Squares Mestni Trg (Town Square) The centre of medieval Ljubljana, the town’s main square was damaged in the 1511 earthquake and subsequently rebuilt in Baroque style. The square houses the Town Hall, City Art Museum, the decorated 16th century Lichtenberg house and the Souvan house with its Empire façade.QD-3/4. Prešernov Trg (Prešeren Square) Formally a meeting place for several roads in front of one 54 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
If you are interested in the days of antiquity, you should start from the Roman amphitheatre in Pula, through Zadar and its forum - the largest excavated forum on the eastern shores of the Adriatic - and then to the magnificent palace of Emperor Diocletian in Split. Walk through time, from the pre-Romanesque Church of St. Domnius in Zadar dating from the 9th century, to the world of the Romanesque that is the magical monument city of Trogir, or the islands of Krk and Rab. Follow the Gothic period in Zagreb, Pazin or the town of Ston on the Pelješac peninsula. Discover the Renaissance in Osor on the island of Cres, Šibenik cathedral, the islands of Hvar and Korčula, and finally, the one and only Dubrovnik. The towns of Varaždin, Bjelovar and Vukovar glow with the splendour of the Baroque, while the heritage of the 19th century is at its best in Rijeka, Osijek and, of course, in Zagreb.
other - west, east, central European and the southern spirit of the Mediterranean. Croatia is a land of urban culture, which has more cities than any other part of the Mediterranean.
of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most important landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 18001849), it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a site for concerts and events during the summer. The charming little public space is ringed by a number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the soon to be reopened Centromerkur department store.QD-3. Trg Republike (Republic Square) The political centre of modern Slovenia, this square houses the brutalist 1960 parliament building, two equally delicate office towers and the Cankarjev Dom Cultural Centre. The western tower is home to some half-dozen embassies, while the east tower is the headquarters of Slovenia’s largest bank, NLB. A small park to the west of the car park contains some large sculptures celebrating heroes of Slovenia’s past and are worth taking a peak at.QB/C-3. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr
Shopping D&G and Hugo Boss.QC-2/3, Ajdovščina 3, tel. +386 (0)1 300 46 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.midas.si. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Nama Set in the heart of the city centre, just opposite the central post office, this modern department store offers several floors of clothing for men and women, with brands ranging from sporty to trendy to sophisticated. A large selection of household items can be found on the fourth floor and a supermarket stocked with an appetizing variety of ready meals, salads, produce and other quick eats is in the basement, while the ground floor is where you will find cosmetics and accessories.QC-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 83 00, email@example.com, www.nama.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Barlič on Mestni Trg
One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river, making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shopping cities in Europe. The main shopping streets in the city centre are Mestni and Stari Trg at the base of Castle Hill, Trubarjeva, Wolfova Ulica and Miklošičeva on the opposite bank. There are also plenty of stores in the grid of streets between Slovenska Cesta and the river. If you would like a mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor. Besides an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a water park and entertainment city.
Books & Magazines Mladinska Knjiga The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest book retailer, it has by far the largest selection of English language books in the country including a fairly impressive travel section. There’s usually at least one table of heavily discounted tomes if you’d like to pick up something cheap to read and aren’t too picky. They also operate smaller shops on seemingly every other street in Ljubljana, which mostly stock stationery supplies.QC-3, Slovenska 29, tel. +386 56 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
(0)1 241 46 84, fax +386 (0)1 252 40 57, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.mladinska.com. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Department Stores Maxi Slovenia’s most storied department store recently received an extensive interior makeover, bringing the modern shopping experience to the heart of the city centre while still maintaining the building’s landmark façade. Cosmetics, accessories, men’s and women’s fashion – including collections from several noted Slovene designers - are spread across the top three floors, whereas the basement level is home to arguably the country’s best supermarket. Several other shops, boutiques and restaurants are located in the brightly lit underground arcade on the same premises.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)1 476 68 00, email@example.com, www.maxi.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Midas A trade house on four floors of Midas offers global brands in the world of fashion such as: Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Dior, Jimmy Choo, Moncler, Paul Smith, Giorgio Armani, Diesel, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Bluamrine and Givechy. Clothing, footwear, bags and other fashion accessories to impress most fashion enthusiasts. There’s also a selection of children’s fashion including items from Gucci, Prada, ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Forma F+ One of Ljubljana’s largest fashion and sporting good megastores, in addition to the individual approach and personal advice from resident professional athletes - Jure Košir, Drago Grubelnik, Rene Mlekuz - Forma F+ also offers an exclusive range of top brands, including Quiksilver, Roxy, Rossignol, SuperDry, Columbia and Nike. It’s located on three floors of the Crystal Palace building in BTC City, and there’s also a Forma F+ Outlet in Hala 11, where items from last season can be bought with a significant discount.QM-2, Ameriška 8, BTC City, tel. +386 (0)5 994 61 80/+386 (0)1 300 08 26, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.fplus.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Marina Yachting Everything, from sou’westers to sweaters, a yachtsman could need, and a few things he might not. Marina is a shop for sailors who actually go sailing; this is Slovenia after all, and the whole country appears to own a boat.QC4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 425 1107, marina.yachting@ amis.net, www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Max&Co MAX&Co. is all about style and glamour: a perfectly calibrated blend of typically Italian quality and creativity. Sartorial tradition and state-of-the-art technology is applied to fashion design, and MAX&Co.’s collections are the fruit of a constantly evolving attitude and the desire to experiment and innovate, which constitutes the pioneering ethos of the brand. MAX&Co. are distinguished by a fresh, contemporary international flair and purposefully designed to be reinterpreted according to one’s moods and whims.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 47 45, email@example.com, www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Petit Bateau Petit Bateau is a century-old tradition based on the things that should be a part of everyday life: Youthful playfulness, facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
sincere happiness and endless comfort. Since 1893 the brand has been an indispensable companion for children and adults for whom quality and comfort are important. QD-4, Stari Trg 30, tel. +386 (0)5 993 49 89, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Quiksilver The Ljubljana branch of the well-known international sporting apparel shop, stocks a variety of fashionable casual and sportswear for both men and women, whether your destination is the beach, the ski slopes or the mountains.QD-4, Mestni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 251 10 73/+386 (0)51 222 069, email@example.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Viktor Barlič This family-run enterprise has been producing high-quality handmade leather goods since first opening its doors on Mestni Trg back in 1954. Nowadays the third generation of the Barlič family specialises in the design and creation of original handbags and other leather accessories, combining traditional handmade methods with modern fashion trends. No two bags are exactly alike and the selection changes weekly, making this is the perfect shop for those who take pride in being unique. A carefully chosen range of imported women’s footwear is also available. The shop is a winner of the prestigious Ljubljana Quality Selection, so you can rest assured that you’ll be in good hands.QD4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 2908, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.barlic.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, 16:00-20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Second Hand/Vintage Vintage Galerija Perhaps the city’s only true vintage clothing retailer, the shop actually grew out of necessity as a result of the owner’s passion for scouring various markets across Italy for textile treasures from bygone eras. Running the gamut from elegance to kitsch and everything in between, most items here can be traced to their exact year of production (or close), and many seem to come with a story or two that serve to enrich their vintage credentials. Sadly, the clothing is currently women’s only, but there is small selection antiques for impatient boyfriends and/or husbands to browse, which included a 17th century map of Italy among other items last time we visited.QD-3, Obrežna Steza 2, tel. +386 (0)41 728 285, email@example.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Food & Drink Mesarstvo Krušič For those looking try a distinctly Slovene culinary staple, the family-run Krušič Butchery is the country’s top provider of horse meat and assorted products. While the thought of eating horse will strike visitors from certain countries as an odd practice, from a nutritional point of April - May 2014
Shopping equal parts gallery and shop. Perusing the collection with the help of a knowledgeable staff member feels a bit like taking a guided tour through all of the many diverse regions and cultures found within Slovenia’s borders. Highlights include traditional beehive panels produced by an award-winning local artisan, world famous Idrijan lace, and various different seasonal specialties. In addition to their beautiful premises just inside the gates of Ljubljana Castle, there’s a second location near Tromostovje Bridge.QD-4, Ljubljanski Grad, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 383 247, www.galerijarustika.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Galerija Rustika QD-3, Stritarjeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 459 509, www.galerijarustika.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Old Town Souvenirs Situated directly between Prešeren Square and Dragon Bridge, you’re guaranteed to pass by this well-stocked souvenir shop on any walking tour of Ljubljana. In addition to the usual assortment of souvenirs, from magnets and shot glasses to chocolate and schnapps (and of course all manner of dragons), they also offer uniquely designed high-quality t-shirts, which conveniently come in their own gift bag. If the weather is nice, you can even grab a beer or soda to drink along the riverside promenade while writing the obligatory postcards.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
view the high protein and low fat meat is much healthier than the more widely consumed alternatives. Using old family recipes, Krušič produces everything from pâtés to dry salami, and of course has a wide selection of fresh raw cuts, all of which come exclusively from Slovenia and have received various quality awards. A second location can be found in the Plečnik Arcade at the central market, and their products can also be purchased at Domača Vas in Kranj. QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 586 24 37, www. mesarstvo-krusic.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts & Souvenirs Čokoladnica Cukrček A charming, family-run business with four shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. In addition to the main location on Mestni Trg, you can find Cukrček in the Nebotičnik passageway, opposite Hotel Union and in Mercator Centre Šiška.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel. +386 (0)1 421 04 53, email@example.com, www. cukrcek.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Galerija Rustika Featuring the largest selection of high-quality Slovenian handicraft products in the entire country, Rustika is indeed 58 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Piranske Soline Times have changed since Roman soldiers were paid in salt but this mineral still ranks as one of life’s essentials. Here at Piranske Soline the canvas bags that fill the windows and the shelves are full of the stuff. There is salt for cooking, including the famous Piran salt, hand-scraped from coastal deposits, along with salted chocolates and a wide range of salt-related accessories such as salt mills and containers. And if all the walking you’ve done has made you a little weary, you can pick up some pick-me-ups in the form of bath salts and scrubs.QD-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)1 425 01 90, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.soline.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Jewellery & Watches Rebecca The first private label from Italian designer Alessandro Testi, since its introduction some ten years ago the Rebecca brand has become an internationally renowned trend setter for high-end fashion jewellery, and is largely credited with creating the phenomenon of fashion jewellery in Italy. Innovative designs fuse traditional and contemporary styles, giving each piece a unique character. The use of unconventional materials, rather than relying solely on precious metals and gems, means that there is something for most (if not all) wallets.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, Grand Hotel Union, tel. +386 (0)1 422 22 22. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Shopping Centres Ljubljana may boast more shopping centres per capita than any other city in Europe, with even more scheduled to open over the next several years. Most are located on the city’s outskirts near the ring road, including the largest, BTC and City Park, in the northeast, Rudnik in the south and Mercator Centre in the northwest. BTC City The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively enormous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities and its very own business district housing some of the best known local and international companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor.QM-3, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)1 585 22 22, email@example.com, en.btc-city.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Citypark Boasting over 120 stores of all shapes and sizes, Citypark is Slovenia’s largest shopping centre, and the best place to find pretty much whatever you need while in Ljubljana. Besides the massive variety of stores - such as XYZ, K&O, Big Bang, Desigual, Hervis, H&M and an Interspar hypermarket - there is a terrific choice of places to eat, from Burger King to Thai food to traditional Slovenian. Unlike the city centre parking is never a problem, and there’s even a large children’s play area to keep the kids occupied. Find the Citypark page on Facebook to stay up to date with new openings and events.QM-3, Šmartinska 152g, tel. +386 (0)1 587 30 50, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. citypark.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
Wine, Spirits & Beer Pivoteka Za Popen’t Za Popen’t may be hidden away in a small courtyard off of Stari Trg, but it’s selection of specialty beers is the largest in the country. At last count some 250 different beers from around the world were weighing down the shelves here, nearly all of which can be explained in detail by the friendly and knowledgeable owner or her staff. For those who don’t know much about beers (like us), don’t worry - simply tell them what kind of flavours you like and they will be able to find a beer for you to try!QD-4, Stari Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 256 59 16, email@example.com, www. zapopent.si. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Many more shops online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
April - May 2014
NEWEST, HIGHEST AND MOST MODERN HOTEL IN LJUBLJANA
Where to stay Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in comparison with western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room you want in the location you want and for the price you want during the summer is highly recommended.
Hotels Over €170 Cubo This relatively new boutique hotel has a great location right in the heart of the city opposite beautiful Kongresni Trg and Zvezda Park. In its couple short years Cubo has already won a host of awards for excellence, including our own IYP Best Business Hotel competition. Its 26 rooms are modern, elegant islands of tranquility, with gorgeous views of the castle and old town, and a friendly professional staff that is always eager to make your stay as comfortable and memorable as possible. The street-level restaurant serves equally praiseworthy cuisine, and is a popular spot for business lunches.QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 60 20, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. hotelcubo.com. 26 rooms (singles €140, doubles €180, suites €350). PJALKW hhhh Grand Hotel Union Business Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information.QD-3, Miklošičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1308 11 70, fax +386 (0)1308 19 14, hotel. email@example.com, www.gh-union.si. 133 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446). PTJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh Grand Hotel Union Executive In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1308 12 70, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.gh-union.si. 194 rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546). PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh 60 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room. Lev Opened in 1964, Lev boasts a pedigree that has managed to entice notable celebrities, such as Agatha Christie, Kirk Douglas, Luciano Pavarotti, Bob Dylan and countless others. A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine overture to 173 high quality, air-conditioned rooms, ranging from singles through to some exceedingly posh suites. All come complete with amenities every guest looks for, including complementary wireless internet access. Hotel Lev offers also conference services and high-end Mediterranean cuisine, served in the award-winning á la carte Restaurant Pri Levu.QC-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 433 21 55, email@example.com, www.hotel-lev. si. 173 rooms (singles €200-286, doubles €240-312). PJHAR6UFGKXW hhhh
Hotels €100-170 Antiq A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist furniture.QD-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 35 60, fax +386 (0)1 421 35 65, info@antiqhotel. eu, www.antiqhotel.eu. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 16 rooms (singles €85-110, doubles €156-206, extra bed €50). PJAR6IGW hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Slon On the site of the oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton. The breakfast is a buffet affair of the highest quality; you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wi-Fi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package. QC-3, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11 00, fax +386 (0)1 251 71 64, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.hotelslon. com. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 168 rooms (singles €75 - 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335). PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
HIGHLIGHTS OF PLAZA HOTEL LJUBLJANA 236 modern, comfortable and spacious rooms Free Wi-Fi and tness Superb cuisine and a large selection of wines Free admitance into Atlantis Water Park (swimming pools) Great location and accessibility Parking space on the hotel parking site and in garage for only 8 EUR per day Special prices for transfer to the City Centre (5 EUR per car) and to the airport (25 EUR per car) Immediate proximity to shopping centres and entertainment areas
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Where to stay
Where to stay
200 91 30, email@example.com, www.gdesignhotel. si. 22 rooms (singles €85-115, doubles €120-150, suites €220-250). HAULKW hhhh Mons A stylish hotel located in natural surroundings next to the Ljubljana Brdo exit of the A2 motorway, Mons was designed by the famous architect Boris Podrecca. It offers elegant, modern rooms with air-conditioning and views of the pine forest, as well as free Wi-Fi and a shuttle service to the city centre. The hotel features a self-service restaurant offering various soups, grilled food, wok dishes and all sorts of salads and fruits, and a second à la carte restaurant serving gourmet dishes and Slovenian wines. Breakfast consists of a wide selection of cereals and hot dishes.QI-4, Pot Za Brdom 4, tel. +386 (0)1 470 27 00, fax +386 (0)1 470 27 08, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.hotel.mons.si. 114 rooms (singles €95-210), doubles €125-150, suites €160-330). PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh
Central The classic three-star hotel experience, the Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city, but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is crammed with the latest useful information about the city and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either, and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value accommodation indeed.QD-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)13 08 43 00, fax +386 (0)1230 11 81, central. email@example.com, www.centralhotel.si. 74 rooms (singles €90-167, doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PJHAR6UFGKDXCW hhh G Design The exceedingly modern G Design may be one of Ljubljana’s newest hotels, but it also boasts over two hundred years of tradition, as the still functioning (and beautifully restored) Gostilna Gorjanc restaurant has been serving travellers at the same location since the end of the 18th century. The large well-furnished rooms feature soft lighting and super comfortable beds, with panoramic views of Ljubljana castle in the distance. Well-equipped conference facilities and meeting rooms are available, and for a real treat you can dine ‘in bed’ at the unique G Super Club. The hotel is conveniently situated just off the Brezovica exit on the motorway, at the edge of the forest just a short drive south of the city centre. QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 200 91 00, fax +386 (0)1 62 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Plaza Hotel Ljubljana Reaching nearly 60m into the sky, the Plaza Hotel is one of the tallest - and dare we say most elegant - buildings in Slovenia. It boasts a total of 236 spacious luxuriouslyappointed rooms, a first-rate restaurant and café, a 400m2 conference room on the 15th floor, and a rooftop lounge bar with cocktails that are almost as good as the view. Even if you live in Ljubljana you may want to consider booking a room for the night just to experience it all for yourself - we already have!QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.plazahotel.si. 236 rooms. PALKW hhhh
This small welcoming hotel takes a personal approach to guests’ needs and accommodating their desires. Ideally situated near both the city centre and the motorway, it is also within walking distance of the city’s largest green space, Tivoli Park. Rooms are individually decorated, and come with all the modern amenities standard in larger hotels. They also offer family rooms with extra space for little ones and small kitchens, and an on-site shop sells regional gourmet products. Perhaps best of all the rooms are located next to a great restaurant of the same name.QJ-4, Sattnerjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)59 333 600/+386 (0)40 636 205, fax +386 (0)59 333 608, email@example.com, www.garnihotelazur.si. 7 rooms. PTAR6LW hhh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Vander Urbani Resort Down a narrow cobbled alleyway connecting Mestni Trg with the riverside, an urban oasis has been constructed inside of four centuries-old town houses. Extensively renovated by Sadar Vuga architects in the most contemporary of styles and a member of Design Hotels, the resort (which is not an inaccurate term) is comprised of a restaurant and lounge bar on the ground floor, with exquisite and uniquely-designed guest rooms located on the floors above. However, perhaps the most impressive single feature is the rooftop terrace, which boasts an infinity pool, yoga studio and glorious views of Ljubljana’s medieval old town.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, fax +386 (0)1 200 9001, info@vanderhotel. com, vanderhotel.com. Singles from €120, doubles from €165. PJHAKCW hhhh
Hotels €70-100 Alo Rooms Vrbinc B&B A modern bed and breakfast with that extra touch of comfort, the Vrbinc is more personal than any chain hotel, while retaining a sense of privacy. The corridors are beautifully decorated with murals of Slovenia, while the bright fresh C rooms sleep up to five, and include a welcome pack with wine and other treats. Breakfast is especially impressive, M made to order and served at your table in the restaurant. Located just off the motorway near the Rudnik shopping Y centre, Vrbinc is good for those with their own transport, CM and cars, bikes and scooters can also be rented onsite.Q L6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 MY 62 18 62, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.alo-accommodationljubljana.si. Singles €49-69, doubles €59-79, triples CY €79-99, 4-person €99-129, 5-person €125-149. CMY
Aparthotel Vila Minka K Several modern rooms and apartments, Vila Minka’s family-run accommodation has been thoughtfully designed with lots of wooden floors, big comfortable beds, plenty of interesting art on the walls and free wireless and cable internet access. With the apartments ranging in size from 30 to 55 square metres, they are a great options for visitors interested in having some extra space to make themselves really feel at home. Located some 3km west of the city centre near the highway exit, it can also be reached on buses Nº5 and 22.QJ-2, Kogovškova 10, tel. +386 (0)31 66 54 31, email@example.com, www.vilaminka.si. 11 rooms (singles €65, doubles €80, 1-5 person apartments €70-170). PTAR6LGXW hhh M Hotel Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this fine, modern business class hotel comes with over 150 well appointed rooms, all with cable television, en suite bathrooms, free wireless internet access and 40 extra-length beds for those who need it. Excellent value for what you get, extras include restaurant, summer terrace, car rental and a hairdresser.QK-3, Derčeva 4, tel. +386 (0)1513 70 00, fax +386 (0)1513 70 90, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.mhotel.si. 154 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €77-168). PTHAR6ULGKXW hhh facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
April - May 2014
Where to stay
Where to stay Tržaška 24, 1000 Ljubljana
Phone/Fax: +386 (0)5 9020 452 +386 (0)41 874 400 fax:+386 (0)5 9060 012 email@example.com
Hotels Under €70 Pension Jelen Located on the old road leading to Medvode and onwards to Austria (Celovška Cesta is Slovene for Villach Road), Jelen has been hosting travellers since the late-19th century, and is also a popular restaurant and pizzeria. Rooms are modernly equipped and the location offers easy access to Ljubljana’s sights as well as airport, and for those without their own transport, Jelen can be conveniently reached by three different bus lines from the city centre (1, 8 and 25). QCelovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 516 15 45, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.pension-jelen.eu. 16 rooms from €38. Medno Located just a few minutes drive northwest of Ljubljana, Medno offers both convenient access to the city centre and a peaceful setting surrounded by nature, with the Sava River meandering by across the road, numerous cycling and walking trails in the area, and Katarina hill (one of Ljubljana’s most popular weekend hiking spots) just behind the property. The hotel itself has a wide range of good value rooms, as well as seminar facilities, a relaxing wellness centre and a fine restaurant. For those without their own transport, city bus #25 also stops just down the street. QMedno 54, tel. +386 (0)1 362 61 00, fax +386 (0)1 362 61 16, email@example.com, www.epiceco-hotels. com. 97 beds (singles €57-64, doubles €74-84, suites €75-104). PTHAR6LGKXW hhh
64 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Pri Mraku With more than 150 years of a tradition as a guesthouse, this family-run hotel gets top marks for its central location, friendly service and excellent traditional Slovene restaurant - the latter boasting hidden inner courtyard where you can dine under the shade of two-century-old grape vines. The three dozen rooms are simple but comfortable and well-kept, while a generous breakfast and helpful staff are the most often cited reasons for repeat visitors and word of mouth recommendations. Located down a small side street at the edge of the old town’s pedestrian zone, the adjacent parking lot is an added convenience. QC-4, Rimska 4, tel. +386 (0)1 421 96 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.daj-dam.si. 35 rooms (singles €62-82, doubles €94-123). PTJARLGKXW hhh Stari Tišler With over a century and a half of tradition, Stari Tišler offers friendly service and eight cosy rooms just a few blocks from the main train station. Recently renovated, it combines the charm and atmosphere of a small village guesthouse with the convenience of a central location and modern amenities. The rooms are individually designed based on motifs of different regions in Slovenia and all come with en suite bathrooms. The a restaurant downstairs serves up tasty authentic Slovene cuisine, and the premises also include a multipurpose room for group dining, events and meets for up to 30 people.QD-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. +386 (0)1 430 33 70, fax +386 (0)1 430 33 75, email@example.com, www.stari-tisler.com. 8 rooms (singles €50-75, doubles €60-80, triples €90-120). Breakfast €5/person. PJAKW ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Apartments Alo Apartments Vila Klara Renting an apartment can be an appealing option for groups of two or more travellers, and the self contained apartments at Vila Klara are a worthy choice. Located in a peaceful neighbourhood near the centre of Ljubljana, they have their own large balconies, twin/double bed, sofa-bed and kitchen with fridge. Not missing a thing on the ‘home comforts’ list, guests can even use the washing machine in the garage for free. Overseen by the friendly staff at the Alohotel Rooms Vrbinc, the service is warm and hospitable, making it an especially good option for families, and parking is included free.QK-5, Staretova 25, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, info@ alo-hotel.si, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si. 4 apartments (€69-109). Kollmann Apartments These beautifully renovated luxury apartments and rooms right in the centre of the old town are truly a sight to behold. The highlight of the smaller unit is the king-sized waterbed located in a loft bedroom separated from the living room below, while the larger apartment is absolutely huge, with two bedrooms, a full bathtub and a washing machine. Both apartments and one of the rooms have fully-equipped kitchenettes, while the larger of the apartments and both rooms also have great views of the Ljubljanica and old town below. All units feature brand new LCD TVs and free internet,QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, firstname.lastname@example.org, facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
www.ljubljana-apartments.eu. Apartment 1 (2-3 people) €93, Apartment 2 (6-8) €176, ensuite rooms (2-4) €78-85. PTJA6GXW MartaStudio These three self-contained studios and one large 106m² apartment are reasonably priced alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities, including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation is just a short 10-minute walk from the city centre, or an even shorter bus ride from the stop just a few metres away (lines 1 and 6). A supermarket, restaurants and banks are all nearby, and airport pick-up can be arranged for little more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is in the same building as the shop Mavrica, look for the house in the courtyard with the red façade.QJ-4, Tržaška 24, tel. +386 (0)5 9020 452/+386 (0)41 874 400, fax +386 (0)5 9060 012, info@ martastudio.eu, www.martastudio.eu. (3 studios €60, 1 apartment €137). TA6L Old Town Rooms and Apartments These newly opened rooms and apartments in a renovated house along the Ljubljanica allow guests to both enjoy an authentic old town experience, while also having the comfort of modern accommodation - all just steps from Prešeren Square, Dragon Bridge and all the other sights in Ljubljana’s medieval centre. All units are bright and airy with wooden furnishings, heated ceramic tile floors, and modern necessities such as large flat screen TVs and April - May 2014
Where to stay
Where to stay options in the city. It’s hard not to be impressed with the huge well-furnished rooms, ample bathroom facilities, two large common rooms, and a perfect location right in the city centre. It’s also already earned top marks from guests on the most popular hostel booking sites, as well as an award for cleanliness. All this starting at €14 per night with breakfast, linens and towels included.QC-3, Čopova 38, tel. +386 (0)1 200 90 60, email@example.com, www. hostel-tresor.si. PJW Vila Veselova Located in a lovely 19th-century mansion in the western part of the city centre, while Vila Veselova is aimed at the young travelling crowd who like to relax, it’s also offers one of the more atmospheric stays in town. Simply furnished with a range of rooms and dormitories, some with and some without en suite facilities and all named after a different colour, extras include nice big balconies and free internet.QB-3, Veselova 14, tel. +386 (0)59 92 67 21, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.v-v.si. 8 rooms (single €45, double €56, 4-bed dorms €20, 6-bed dorms €16, 8-bed dorms €16). JARLGW hh
Camping Old Town Rooms and Apartments location along the banks of the Ljubljanica is hard to beat!
wireless internet. The upstairs apartment offers a fullyequipped kitchen, cosy living room and dining area and a separate bedroom. Discounts are offered for longer stays. QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, email@example.com, www.old-town.si. Rooms from €50, apartments from €80. PJAW
Hostels AdHoc Hostel Despite the name, budget conscious travellers can rest assured that every aspect of this newly opened hostel has been thoroughly planned and executed - including all the small touches that backpackers are sure to appreciate, such as ample common space, plenty of showers and shelves for the top bunks. However, it’s the unbeatable location in the heart of the old town just below the castle and only steps from all the major sites (and popular nightlife venues) that makes AdHoc a winner. A total of 72-beds are spread across several floors and a combination of dorms and private rooms.QCankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. adhoc-hostel.com. 8-bed dorm €16-20, private quadruple €17-23/person, private double €19-27/person. PJGW Celica Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the bus and train stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms have preserved their original character, providing a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. 66 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire. The hostel’s café serves excellent value set lunches every day.QF-1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. +386 (0)12 30 97 00, email@example.com, www.hostelcelica. com. 29 rooms (rooms €19-32 per bed, dorms €1925per bed). PJHAR6ULGKW h
Alo Camp With 12 pitches, the camping place at Alohotel offers high quality facilities to campers and caravanners right near the centre of the Slovene capital. The site includes electricity connections, a very attractive and modern shower block designed with personal touches, and use of the facilities at the adjacent Alohotel, while the popular Gostilna Vrbinc restaurant serves up tasty Balkan cuisine. The location offers easy access to both the centre and the motorway being just off junction 33 (one junction west of Ljubljana jug). QL-6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si.
Hostel Print In terms of accommodation, Print is actually more of a budget hotel as all accommodation is in single, double and triple rooms, which are fully furnished and even include fridges. Tasty home-made breakfasts are also included in the price and easily exceed what you get at most other budget options. However, the place still manages to maintain a laid back hostel vibe with several common areas and a huge terrace off the kitchen. Located in the student neighbourhood of Rožna Dolina, it’s a short walk to the centre or a quick ride on bus 14 (hop off opposite Mercator).QJ-4, Rožna Dolina IV/34, tel. +386 (0)51 387 111, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.hostelprint.com. 23 rooms (singles €41, doubles €19.99, triples €16.99, four bed €15.99, five bed €14.99, twelfe bed €10.99). Prices don’t include turistic tax €1.01. PTAR6LGXW Tresor Just opened in spring 2013, the Tresor is not only Ljubljana’s largest hostel with 132 beds in 28 rooms, but also one of the best equipped and attractive budget accommodation ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Around Ljubljana Pri Cesarju This charming little guesthouse offers cosy accommodation in the heart of medieval Kamnik, making it a great base for hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter, or those who’d like to enjoy a relaxing stay outside of the capital in any season. The large rooms come in several different sizes, all of which boast modern furnishings, refrigerators, LCD televisions and lots of wood from floor to ceiling. Two of the rooms also have balconies with views towards the majestic Kamnik-Savinja Alps.QTunjiška 1, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)41 629 846, info@cesarski-dvor. si, www.pricesarju.si. 11 rooms (singles €36, doubles €48-58, family rooms €74-92). Breakfast €4 per person. PTJLW
If you’re headed to Kamnik, the centrally located Pri Cesarju makes a great base for exploring the medieval town and surrounding mountains
Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors for free to fellow travellers. The site, which combines social networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone interested in hanging out with locals and saving some cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective hosts. Info www.couchsurfing.org April - May 2014
Embassies & Expats With a population of approximately 280,000 inhabitants, Ljubljana is somewhat smaller than Coventry, England or Białystok, Poland and just larger than Brașov, Romania or Münster, Germany - closer in size to a village than a metropolis. However, with all due respect to these other undoubtedly fine cities, Ljubljana boasts a cosmopolitan feel well beyond what the simple numbers would imply, thanks to factors including its status as an EU capital, its position at one of the continent’s main geographical and historical crossroads, strong connections with the former Yugoslav states, a long tradition of culture and the arts, its quick establishment of a (more or less) market-oriented economy after independence, its popularity as a destination for foreign students, and its relatively high quality of life, especially for families and nature-lovers. All of this adds up to a thriving expat community, which we’ve tried to feature just a bit of on the following pages.
Expat Organisations International Club of Slovenia A fun club for (mostly professional) expats living in Slovenia. The organisation is open to anyone who wants to meet new people and all their events are advertised on their website, and most are free to attend, including the popular Friday Night Drinks.QICS@sloveniawelcomes.com, www. sloveniawelcomes.com/expats. InterNations InterNations is the world’s number one online expat community, which offers a platform to easily meet other expats in Ljubljana. In addition to a lively online community, members regularly get together at events or take part in planning trips together.Qwww. internations.org.
Expat Chat - Sankalp J Dhavale Nationality: India Age: 36 How long have you lived in Ljubljana? 9 months What do you do? I’m currently planning and working to open a restaurant in Ljubljana
STOJA TRADE d.o.o.,
How’s your Slovene? Basic reading and speaking
Dolenjska cesta 242C, SI-1000 Ljubljana T: +386 1 2800 860, F: +386 1 2800 861 E: email@example.com
What do you like most about Ljubljana? Safety and cleanliness What do you like least about Ljubljana? Not enough exciting options for food and drink Favourite restaurant? Da Bu Da Favourite café? Zvezda Favourite bar/club/pub? Sputnik Favourite Slovenian gifts to take to friends/ family back home? Pretty much everything that is made on a farm Favourite day trip from Ljubljana? The Volčji Potok Arboretum in Radomlje Slovenian International Ladies Association The Slovenian International Ladies Association, or SILA, is a dynamic organisation of women from nearly 40 countries currently or permanently living in Slovenia. Founded in 1993 as a non-profit, SILA dedicated to social, cultural and educational exchange among its members. Its main event of the year, is the annual charity bazaar held each winter.Qwww.sila.si.
APARTMENTS I HOUSES I BUSINESS PREMISES I LAND
FOR RENT I FOR SALE I WE RENT I WE BUY Stoja Real Estate Agency is the most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people. Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. We have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises. Our agents will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.
International Schools Stoja Real Estate Agency The most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people, Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. They have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises, and will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.QDolenjska 242c, tel. +386 (0)1 28 00 860/+386 (0)41 652 141, fax +386 (0) 1 28 00 861, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.rent-a-realestate. com. www.rent-a-realestate.com, www.dcs.si. 68 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
British International School of Ljubljana The British International School of Ljubljana opened its doors in September 2008. Based in the Bežigrad area, to the north of the city centre, the school has a current enrolment of around 170 children aged 3 to 18. The Pre-School and Primary Section use the International Primary Curriculum (IPC) and the Secondary Section prepares both Slovenian and foreign students for University of Cambridge ESOL and IGCSE exams, with A-Level following later.QK-2, Podmilščakova 24, tel. +386 (0)40 486 548, enquiries@ britishschool.si, www.britishschool.si. QSI International School of Ljubljana QI-4/5, Dolgi Most 6a, tel. +386 (0)1 244 17 50, ljubljana@ qsi.org, www.qsi.org. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
www.stoja-trade.si I www.rent-a-realestate.com I www.dcs.si
Embassies & Expats Embassies & Consulates All embassies and consulates in Ljubljana. The opening times and the second listed telephone number is of the consular departments. Austria QB-3, Prešernova 23, tel. +386 (0)1479 07 00, fax +386 (0)1252 17 17, email@example.com, www. bmaa.gv.at./laibach. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 8:00 12:00, Fri 8:00 - 10:00. Closed Sat, Sun. China QL-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1420 28 55, fax +386 (0)1282 21 99, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. France QC-5, Barjanska 1, tel. +386 (0)1479 04 00, fax +386 (0)1425 04 10, email@example.com, www. ambafrance-si.org. Open 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. GermanyQB-3, Prešernova 27, tel. +386 (0)1 479 03 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 08 99, germanembassy-slovenia@ siol.net, www.laibach.diplo.de. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, Fri 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy QB-4, Snežniška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 21 94, fax +386 (0)1 425 33 02, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russia QA-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1425 68 75, fax +386 (0)1425 68 78, email@example.com, www. veleposlanistvorusije.mid.ru/. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UK QB-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. +386 (0)1 200 39 10, fax +386 (0)1 425 01 74, firstname.lastname@example.org, ukinslovenia.fco.gov.uk. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. USA QB-3, Prešernova 31, tel. +386 (0)1200 55 00, fax +386 (0)1200 55 55, email@example.com, slovenia.usembassy.gov. There is no opening hours, but you have to announce.
Useful Websites The following are a list of useful Slovene websites that we personally use on a regular basis. Not all of them are in English, but that’s not something Google Translate can’t help with. Real Estate www.nepremicnine.net Online Marketplace www.bolha.com Electronics www.mimovrste.com Ride Sharing www.prevoz.org Live Bus Schedule bus.talktrack.com English Language News www.sloveniatimes.com Local Foodie Hub www.ljubljananjam.si Events Calendar www.napovednik.com Cultural Info Centre www.kic-ljubljana.si GLBT Sports & Recreation www.outinslovenija.com Event Tickets www.eventim.si 70 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Diplomatic Corporate Services D iplomatic C o r po r ate Services Slovenia Operated by Stoja Real Estate, as the name suggests Diplomatic Corporate Services is a web portal and associated service agency that aims to provide foreigners (primarily from the diplomatic and business community) living and travelling in Ljubljana and elsewhere in Slovenia with all the relevant information they could possibly need - from hotel and restaurant recommendations to real estate services and medical care. Their dedicated multi-lingual team is only a phone call or email away, while their website also provides a wealth of information.QDolenjska 244c, tel. +386 (0)1 2800 860, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.dcs.si. www.dcs.si.
Language courses Cene Štupar This long-running public institution operates under the municipality of Ljubljana, and is one of the leading providers of Slovene language courses in the country. New classes begin regularly, and include an accompanying programme of workshops, excursions and other cultural activities, all of which are led by young enthusiastic instructors and come at very reasonable prices.QL-3, Linhartova 13, tel. +386 (0)1 234 44 00/+386 (0)1 234 44 21, fax +386 (0)1 234 44 28, email@example.com, www.cene-stupar.si. Centre for Slovene as a Foreign Language Courses in the Slovene language are available throughout the year, including free 180-hour courses for foreign nationals holding valid residency permits (depending on availability).QC/D-4, 12 Kongresni Trg, tel. +386 (0)1 241 86 77/+386 (0)1 241 86 48, center-slo@ ff.uni-lj.si, www.centerslo.net. Veris Veris is both one of Ljubljana’s top translation and interpretation companies, and most professionally-run language schools. In addition to offering Slovene language courses for foreigners of all levels, they also teach English, Arabic, Chinese, Spanish, Russian and some half dozen other languages. Their modern facilities are located in the Stegne business park in the northwest of city.QJ-1, Stegne 7, tel. +386 (0)1 5000 579, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.veris.si.
Photo: Paragliding in the Slovenian Alps, Alexandra Lande / Shutterstock
Golf & Outdoor One of the greenest countries in Europe, Slovenia is a true year-round sport and outdoor paradise
Golf & Outdoor
Golf & Outdoor on weekdays and €52/35 on weekends and holidays. Guests of Mokrice Castle or any of the hotels at Terme Čatež receive a 30% discount. Bovec QPodklopca 15, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)40 466 900/+386 (0)40 382 229, fax +386 (0)5 3896 102, info@golfbovec. si, www.golfbovec.si. Diners Ljubljana QSmlednik 200, tel. +386 (0)51 623 883/+386 (0)59 211 720, email@example.com, golf-ljubljana.si. Green fee is €55/35 for 18/9 holes on weekdays and €60/40 on weekends. There is a 20% discount for those paying with a Diners Golf Club credit card. Lipica QLipica 5, tel. +386 (0)5 734 63 73, fax +386 (0)5 739 17 25, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.lipica.org. Green fee is €31/26 for 18/9 holes on weekdays and €42/33 on weekends and holidays. Olimje QOlimje 24, Podčetrtek, tel. +386 (0)3 818 24 80, fax +386 (0)3 582 90 67, email@example.com, www.amon.si.
Experience the royal treatment at Mokrice Castle either before or after your round at the magnificent course that lies on the surrounding hills
Golf Courses In the past decade or so golf in Slovenia has grown from a minor curiosity into a full-fledged recreational sport enjoyed by thousands of locals and visitors alike. While slovenia may be a small country in terms of square kilometres, its geographical diversity makes it an especially interesting destination for golfers. There are now a dozen courses in the country, nearly all of which are within a one-hour drive of Ljubljana - including the nine-hole Trnovo course located just south of the city centre. Trnovo is also conveniently the only course in the country at which non-licensed golfers can officially play, although in practice many courses will waive this requirement for foreigners who can persuasively attest to their skills (and pay the green fee). Arboretum Arboretum ranks among our favourite courses in Slovenia to skip work and play a round during the week, thanks largely to the breathtaking views of the nearby KamnikSavinja Alps offered on nearly every hole. Its proximity to Ljubljana (roughly 30 minutes depending on traffic) and moderate weekday prices also don’t hurt, and the clubhouse restaurant is a recommendable option for a postround lunch or drink.QRudnik pri Radomljah 1a, tel. +386 (0)1 831 80 80, fax +386 (0)1 831 80 91, uprava@ golfarboretum.si, www.golfarboretum.si. Green fee is €33/28 for 18/9 holes on weekdays and €45/40 on weekends and holidays. 72 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Golf Igrišče Bled Bled Golf Course first opened in 1937 and was redesigned by famous golf architect Donald Harradine in 1972. It’s the oldest golf course in Slovenia and is said to be one of the most beautiful golf courses in central Europe. The facility comprises the 18-hole King’s Course and the 9-hole Lake Course, and is the only Slovenian golf course on the Golf World Magazine list of Top 100 Golf Courses in Continental Europe - coming in at number 51.QVrba 37a, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)1 200 99 01, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.golfbled.si. Mokrice On the hills surrounding the spectacular Mokrice Castle is a 70 hectare, 18-hole golf course of the same name. Designed by world famous golf architect Donald Harradine, the course is built around the natural configuration of the landscape and has been described as a masterpiece of both imagination and design by professional golfers around the world. The course runs through a medieval forest, and exquisitely kept English park and many natural obstacles (including a lake), making it one of the more challenging courses in Slovenia. In the event that the weather conspires against you, you can still take advantage of the state-of-theart indoor golf simulator located in the sport centre at Terme Čatež, which allows you to play dozens of well-known courses using real clubs and balls.QRajec 4, tel. +386 (0)7 457 42 46, fax +386 (0)7 495 70 07, email@example.com, www.terme-catez.si. Green fee is €42/32 for 18/9 holes ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Trnovo QC/D-3, tel. +386 (0)41 76 64 40, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.golftrnovo.com. Green fee is €32/20 for 18/9 holes on weekdays and €35/23 on weekends and holidays. Zlati Grič QŠkalce 91, Slovenske Konjice, tel. +386 (0)3 758 03 62, fax +386 (0)3 758 03 82, email@example.com, www.zlati-gric.si.
Outdoor Activities GEOSS Adventure Park GEOSS is the acronym for the geometric centre of Slovenia (located about 40km NE of Ljubljana) in the vicinity of which you’ll find the large outdoor GEOSS adventure park. Colloquially this part of the country is known as ‘Srce Slovenije’ (Slovenia’s heart) and the park’s 915 metre zip line and high-wire courses 11 metres up in the canopy are guaranteed to get hearts racing. Even more challenging are the five different obstacle courses with a total of 72 elements, the most difficult of which require both skill and courage to overcome. The park itself is in a beautiful forested landscape, making it a great setting for families to spend time in nature together and fuelled on adrenaline the kids will actually enjoy it.QSlivna 15, Vače, tel. +386 (0)30 332 332, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. pustolovski-park-geoss.si. Feel Green Located in Jezersko, just a stone’s throw from the Austrian border but still only a short drive from Ljubljana, Feel Green is one of the leading Slovene companies specialising in sports tourism as well as educational and team-building facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
activities. Their facilities include an adrenaline park, alpine hotel and paintball site located on former Yugoslav Army training grounds. They also arrange various hiking, biking and climbing trips in and around the Alps. See their site (Slovene-only) for more info.QZg. Jezersko 28a, tel. +386 (0)31 203 930, fax +386 (0)4 25 59 540, info@feelgreen. si, www.feelgreen.si.
Paintball Kraljev Hrib Located near the cable car at the foot of the Alps in Velika Planina, the ‘King of the Hill’ sports and recreation centre is best known as the foremost promoter of one of Slovenia’s newest pastimes: paintball. Since they opened the country’s first paintball club in 1992, the sport has gone on to build quite a following among Slovenes, who turn out year-round to shoot their friends, family members and coworkers with balls of paint.QKamniška Bistrica 2, 1242 Stahovica, tel. +386 (0)18 32 72 50/+386 (0)41 816 477, email@example.com, www.kraljevhrib-sp.si.
Sporting goods Intersport Everything you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too.QC-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1242 77 57, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.intersport.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Golf Clarus QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 9), tel. +386 (0)1 200 09 18, email@example.com, www.clarus.si/golf. Open 08:00 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Madness QE-3, Trubarjeva 16, tel. +386 (0)1 231 48 64, madness. firstname.lastname@example.org, www.madness-shop.com. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Žolna Šport QJ-5, Koprska 72b, tel. +386 (0)1 423 20 53/+386 (0)41 602 011, email@example.com, www.zolnasport.si.
Watch the Alp Devils American football team play on 27 April and 14 June at Oval Field in Stanežiče just outside Ljubljana. For more info see alpdevils.com
April - May 2014
Around Ljubljana - West
Around Ljubljana - West Where to eat Evergreen Located at the prestigious Diners Golf & Country Club in Smlednik just northwest of Ljubljana, Evergreen is the flagship restaurant of the Kaval Group, which operates over a dozen restaurants in and around the capital. Even for those not with no interest in golf, Evergreen’s idyllic setting makes an attractive destination for lunch or dinner, especially when the weather permits dining outside. The gourmet menu is a feast for the eyes (and wallet), while the daily lunch specials during the week are a great value starting at only €10.QSmlednik 200, Smlednik, tel. +386 (0)5 921 17 43/+386 41 366 249, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.evergreen-restavracija.si. Open 08:00 - 22:00. PTALB Gostilna Ledinek Since 1974, the restaurant on top of Šmarna Gora has been serving happy hikers who have reached the summit. The most famous dish here is the rice-based Ričet, which is not unlike risotto. Otherwise, all of the best homemade Slovenian classics can also be had: jota, kranjska klobasa, beef soup, mushroom soup and roast pork with potatoes (some only available at the weekends). Our personal favourite in the summer, though, is the sour milk with buckwheat and bread to dip - you can’t get more rustic Slovenian than that. Of course, even just a beer while reclining on sun lounger overlooking Ljubljana might well suffice. QŠmarna Gora, www.smarnagora.com.
The view towards Ljubljana at dusk from the top of Šmarna Gora moutain, Xseon/Shutterstock
For those looking for a bit of rural adventure or peaceful exploration in nature, the area to the immediate west and northwest of Ljubljana offers a host of opportunities with easy access on public transport, by bike or even on foot. Highlights include the twin hills of Šmarna Gora, the castle of Polhov Gradec and the town of Medvode, which is know as the Green Gateway to the Capital.
What to see Medvode Located on the main road between Ljubljana and the Gorenjska region, the sleepy town of Medvode is known as the ‘Green Gateway to the Capital’. Actually lying on the confluence of two rivers, the Sava and Sora, its name means ‘between the waters’. With just over 14,000 inhabitants, Medvode has all the amenities of a town (including some fine restaurants), and enough sights to keep visitors busy for at least a day. Highlights include Goričane Manor and the beautiful church of St Andrew in Gosteče, while to the west of town there’s a wonderful lake, Zbiljsko Jezero. Polhov Gradec Nestled amongst low hills stretching to the middle heights of the Polhograjske hribovje, this picturesque village has been settled since the Iron Age. The castle from which it gets its name was first mentioned in the 14th century, and is nowadays a cultural monument, housing the Lo74 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
cal Museum of Polhov Gradec and the Technical Museum of Slovenia’s Museum of Post and Telecommunications. The village church, dedicated to Mary’s birth, is from the 1700’s and houses a Baroque altar, along with Baroque paintings. Šmarna Gora Along with its little sister near the centre, Rožnik, the hill of Šmarna Gora is a favourite local hiking hotspot for Ljubljančani (Ljubljana folk). Dominating the capital’s sk line to the north, its two stout peaks rise 676m and 669m to form a bosom shaped mound that’s just begging to be rambled. To the left, the peak of Grmada (traditionally where witches were burned at the stake) is the quieter option, with commanding views to the west and also across Ljubljana. The right peak is home to a restaurant and café, with panoramic views on all sides: of Ljubljana, east towards the hill of Rašica and north towards the Alps. On sunny days the various tables, benches and sun loungers are sure to be completely packed, and the visit is not co plete without ordering a serving of small suger-covered donuts known as miške (mice) to enjoy along with the view. Although there are numerous paths to the top, by far the most popular is from the village of Tacen, which can easily be reached by public transport (bus line 8). The walk to the top takes 30-45 minutes depending on how leisurely the pace. And don’t forget to ring the bell and make a wish on the way down!Qwww.smarnagora.com. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Gostilna na Virhi There are more than a few traditional Slovene restaurants in and around Ljubljana, but Gostilna na Virhi is the only one we know of that offers visitors the chance to experience an authentic all-inclusive Slovene weekend, with their day trip to the countryside package. Available on Saturdays and Sundays (with registration by Friday), in addition to a filling lunch of traditional cuisine, it also includes a homemade brandy tasting, Slovenian folk music and a short walk to the nearby village church, all of which is accompanied by breathtaking scenery of the Slovenian Alps! For those without their own transport they even offer pick-up and drop-off service from the end of Ljubljana’s #5 bus line.QTopol Pri Medvodah 10, Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 361 3658/+386 (0)41 561 059, navihri@gmail. com, www.gostilnanavihri.com.
GOSTILNA NA VIHRI
TOPOL PRI MEDVODAH 10 TEL.: +386 (0)1 3613658 GSM: +386 (0)41 561 059 EMAIL: email@example.com
On your way to or from Ljubljana, stop by Penzion Na Klancu for atraditional Slovene meal, Viktor1 / Shutterstock
Gostilna Mihovec Only a short drive from Ljubljana, this family-run restaurant with more than a century and a half of tradition offers an unbeatable combination of excellent modern Slovene cuisine and genuine rural hospitality. Most of the ingredients are not only organic and locally-sourced, but come from the family’s own farm or from their neighbours, a fact which led to Mihovec being one of the original members recognised under the Gostilna Slovenia brand. There is often live traditional music in the evenings, while we usually stop by for a long lunch at the weekends whenever we have the time.QZgornje Pirniče 54, Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 362 30 60/+386 (0)31 684 434, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.mihovec.com. Open , Wed, Thu 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. TLEB
Where to STAY Penzion na Klancu For those who’d like to avoid the bustle of the city centre, but still have easy access to sights and activities in Ljubljana, this 100 year-old but newly renovated guest house is perfectly situated in the town of Medvode some 11km from the capital. The spacious, smartly decorated rooms are complimented by an excellent restaurant, and the staff can recommend numerous activities and off the beaten path excursions in the surrounding countryside.QGorenjska 13, Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 361 82 55/+386 (0)31 673 068, fax +386 (0)1 361 82 56, info@ naklancu.com, www.naklancu.com. Open 07:00:22:00. 13 rooms starting from €38. PALKW
Much more to see and do around Ljubljana at slovenia.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014
Postojna Sport Located just 200m from the centre of Postojna, and just a 10-minute walk from the region’s main attraction, the magnificent Postojna Cave, Hotel Sport is a good accommodation option with clean comfortable rooms and a very decent buffet breakfast thrown in. The hotel also lives up to its name by offering bicycle storage and rental, whilst the friendly staff are happy to arrange guided cycling or hiking tours in the beautiful countryside surrounding Postojna.QKolodvorska 1, tel. +386 (0)5 720 22 44, email@example.com, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 38 rooms (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triples €103118, apartments €65-75).
Around Postojna Hotel Casino Safir Located in the town of Sežana, a stone’s throw from the Slovene-Italian border, as the name suggests the modern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers. Rooms offer all the modern comforts, whilst if you’re lucky in the casino we suggest upgrading to a superior suit with Jacuzzi. Even if you’re not looking to win money, the hotel is actually a very good base for exploring some of the beautiful villages and natural sights nearby, while Trieste is less than 10km away.QPartizanska 149, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 731 44 44, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. safir.si. 51 rooms (singles €69-75, doubles €97-109, suites €121-141). Postojna is one of the few towns that still boasts a Tito Square - photo courtesy RDO Postojnska Jama - Zeleni Kras
With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are more well-known throughout that world (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement in the southwest of the country that wasn’t even officially recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries, with one of its first being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis I the year before it opened. If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with another popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnificent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only a fine castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cave and is also associated with several fascinating legends.While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and many other guesthouses and private accommodation options located in and around the town, it makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst region that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively). 76 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Where to stay Epicentre Despite the name, Epicentre isn’t quite in the centre of town, although as Postojna isn’t a metropolis the location is still walking distance to everything, and what’s more with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley right next door it could be considered the epicentre of entertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides comfortable and affordable accommodation.QKazarje 10, tel. +386 (0)5 700 22 00, booking@epicenter-on. net, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apartments (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triple €103-118, apartments €65-75). PTJLKW Kras This modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just a few minutes on foot to the city’s famous cave, and near several good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also popular with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and drinks at night. Kras offers everything you would expect from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortable rooms with modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast and very friendly staff.QTržaška 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23 00, email@example.com, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 24 rooms, 3 suites (singles €71-87, doubles €89-109, suites €121-141). ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Mirjam Penzion & Wellness Set just underneath one of Slovenia’s most unique natural sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern edge of the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget accommodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plenty of space for pitching a tent. QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@siol. net, www.mirjam.si. Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper). T6FLEKDCW
Where to eat Avio Pub Found just off the runway at Postojna’s small recreational airport, there’s a large garden out back where diners can watch the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors on panoramic flights. Despite the name, this place is a fullfledged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled to perfection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar. From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered interior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:0023:00. Closed Mon. TLBS facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
April - May 2014
Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of galleries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties. Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself. Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10°C, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, email@example.com, www.postojnska-jama. eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at 10:00, 12:00 and 15:00, in April and Oct at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00. 78 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Predjama Castle (Predjamski Grad) Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respectively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable. This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather proficient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt several times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged to this day. Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a museum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climbing and a minimal level of fitness is strongly encouraged if not required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from 10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00, during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00.
Restaurant Proteus Postojna
Proteus Restaurant After a day spent exploring Postojna’s famous cave and other sights, treat yourself to a first-class meal at the newly renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is typical for the region, the restaurant combines the traditional and modern with homemade local cuisine served in an elegant interior. Tables are separated by curtains of fine white string, which are meant to resemble the geological formations found inside the cave, and the walls are decorated with works of acclaimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, info@ postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu. Restaurant & Pizzeria Čuk This humble restaurant and pizzeria keeps things simple with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge of town, Čuk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On offer are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excellent woodfired pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is great for families with a selection of kid’s meals and a playground to occupy the little ones before or after eating. If you are staying in town and don’t feel like heading out, Čuk also delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, pizzeria. email@example.com, www.pizza-cuk.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTLV
Around Postojna Dolenčevi Tourist Farm Slovenes are a rustic down to earth bunch with many families still growing their own veggies and producing homemade delicacies from salami to plum brandy. The Dolenčevi tourist farm, an ecological family-run estate 10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to experience this strong connection to the land and taste the fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food at Dolenčevi is excellent, with the house-cured prosciutto ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike rental available), and the must-see Postojna and Škocjan caves are just a short drive away.QSajevče 8, Hruševje, tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, firstname.lastname@example.org, www. dolencevi.si. From €20/person, €24 with breakfast, €34 with half-board. Morski Konjiček Found near the town of Pivka just off the main PostojnaPivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the A1 motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the coast. Given that its name translates ‘seahorse’ in English, it’s not surprising that fish and other seafood specialities are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who have already had their fill of such fare, there are plenty of other dishes and some fine pizzas. For families there’s a children’s playground for a before or after dinner romp, and for those who’d like to stay for a drink or five the place is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pristava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386 (0)41 523 325, email@example.com. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed Mon except for holidays.
Read more about Postojna online at postojna.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014
Directory Express Mail DHLQŠpruha 19, Trzin, tel. +386 (0)1588 78 00, si.info@dhl. com, www.dhl.si. Open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KurirčekQtel. +386 (0)80 1881/+386 (0)51 44 45 55, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.kurircek.si. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Fitness 4P Fitness Living or visiting Slovenia can be hard on the body knocking back local schnapps and tasty ‘kremsnita’ cream cakes certainly takes its toll on us. Whilst Martin Strel might be able to swim a marathon (seemingly) without working out, we need to hit the gym for our health and vanity. One of Ljubljana’s best gyms is 4P fitness club, offering excellent modern facilities, expert advice and a range of group or personal training options. You don’t need to be a member to visit with everything from single to yearly passes available - student and pensioner discounts also available. QVerovškova 55a, tel. +386 (0)1 513 64 48/+386 (0)40 332 203, email@example.com, www.4p-fitness.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00.
Hair Salons RokSalonQStari Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)59 921 826, info@ roksalon.si, www.roksalon.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Stevo QC-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. +386 (0)1 431 51 38, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.stevo.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Hospitals & Clinics Barsos-MC QB/C-4, Gregorčičeva 11, tel. +386 (0)12 42 07 00, fax +386 (0)1 242 07 44, www.barsos.net. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Health Centre Metelkova QF-2, Metelkova 9, tel. +386 (0)1472 37 00, fax +386 (0)1472 38 90, center@ zd-lj.si, www.zd-lj.si. Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna Dolina QJ-4, Rožna Dolina IV/45, tel. +386 (0)1477 94 00, info@ Monolit2GO.pdf 1 22.10.2012 14:57:04 kirurski-sanatorij.si, www.kirurski-sanatorij.si. C
80 Ljubljana In Your Pocket
Address: Verovškova 55a Phone: 01 513 64 48 040 332 203 web: www.4p-fitness.com e-mail: email@example.com
University Medical Centre Ljubljana QF/G-2, Zaloška 2, tel. +386 (0)1522 50 50, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.kclj.si.
Laundry & Dry Cleaning Femiks QE-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. +386 (0)1230 18 20, email@example.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Operi in Posuši Ljubljana’s first self-service laundry facilities are located in the Mercator centre shopping complex opposite the main northern entrance to BTC City. Washing cost €3, and drying is €1 for 20 minutes, and there’s even free WiFi. QM-2, Beblerjev Trg 2 (TC Mercator), tel. +386 (0)64 116 341, firstname.lastname@example.org, operiinposusi.si. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-17:00 and Sun 08:00-12:00.
Libraries City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) The regional library for central Slovenia is the most popular library in the country, and has a wide range of English literature.QC-2, Kersnikova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 600 13 00, www.mklj.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National & University Library) Home of Slovenia’s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library is every researcher’s dream.QB-3, Turjaška 1, tel. +386 (0)1200 11 88, email@example.com, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Massage Ban Thai Whether you’re jet-lagged, sore from skiing or stressed out from work, nothing is more relaxing than a good massage, and from what we hear Ban Thai have some of the best masseurs in Ljubljana. Ban Thai as the name alludes specialise in the ancient art of Thai massage which like a good Thai curry strikes the perfect balance between pain and pleasure, deeper and more rigorous than other massages it’s the perfect remedy for stress and an aching body.QK-5, Barjanska 56, tel. +386 (0)64 142 142/+386 (0)59 045 870, salon@banthai. si, www.banthai.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Debitel QŽelezna cesta 18, tel. +386 (0)1306 01 00, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.debitel.si. Hotpoint chargerQtel. +386 (0)70 797 700, info@ hotpoint.si, www.hotpoint.si. Mobitel QD-1, Vilharjeva 25, tel. +386 (0)1472 23 20, email@example.com, www.mobitel.si. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Tušmobil QJ-2, Brnčičeva 49, tel. +386 (0)80 700 700, www.tusmobil.si. Vodafone SimobilQB-3, Prešernov Trg, tel. +386 (0)1426 71 02, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.simobil.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Pharmacies Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) QD-3, Prešernov Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. email@example.com, www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 07:30 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun 1.5.-15.9. open Mon. Fri 07:30-20:00. Lekarna Ljubljana (Lekarna pri polikliniki) QF-2, Prisojna 7, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. firstname.lastname@example.org, www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 24hrs. Lekarna Miklošič QD-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. +386 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
(0)1230 61 00, email@example.com, www.lekarnalj.si. Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Shoe repair Aleš Cevljar We can’t honestly say we know much about the art of mending shoes, but we’ve been going to this guy for years now and he’s never let us down. He also charges so little that we almost feel guilty. Definitely recommended!QE-2, Barvarska Steza 5, tel. +386 (0)40 241 282, firstname.lastname@example.org. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Spas & Wellness Hiša Ayurveda QZabretova 9a, tel. +386 (0)31 639 408/+386 (0)51 649 711, email@example.com, www.ayurveda.si.
Translators Alkemist QJ-2, Obirska 4, tel. +386 (0)1 514 16 78, firstname.lastname@example.org, www.alkemist.si. KibordQStranska Vas 17b, Dobrova pri Ljubljani, tel. +386 (0)40 747 447, email@example.com, www.kibord.si.
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014
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Ayurveda removes the root causes of diseases in a holistic way -
allergies arthritis obesity deppression eczema haemorrhoids chronâ€™s disease high blood pressure rheumatism
insomnia gastritis liver disorders ishias menstrual problems migraines digestive problems vertigo skin diseases
Experts from India perform - ayurvedic consultation - herbal oil massages - ayurvedic detox therapies Ayurveda has remarkable revitalization and prevention skills and is a strong cornerstone in the construction of our immune system. It is also very effective in solving all kinds of chronic problems and in facilitating specific situations in different stages of life. In ayurveda, diet, herbs and treatments are personalized and this allows us to face the different life conditions in a way that is most favorable to us. â€“ Ayurveda is a healing system and a way of life, which dates more than 5000 years back and which is still successfully used today. Science of life and longevity
m: +386 (0)31 639 408 www.ayurveda.si Zabretova 9a, Ljubljana firstname.lastname@example.org