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22
Michelin-starred Australian chef Shaun Hergatt tells us his favourite hangouts in Paris, London, LA, and Miami.
FLYING HIGH
A look at award-winning Private Jet Operators, GlobeAir, about the changing face of luxury charter flights.
Lifestyle Fine Dining
25 PAUL PAIRET Ultraviolet, Shanghai 66
RESTAURANT DIARY
78
ISLAND EXCELLENCE
FOUR looks at Ibiza Gran Hotel’s treasure trove of gastronomic gems.
83
CATERING FOR THE SENSES
Thirty-Nine Monte-Carlo explains more about their premium catering and events service.
80
MIXOLOGY
A visit to Barcelona to try award-winning cocktails from world’s best bar, Paradiso.
14 CONTENTS
Pavyllon,
30
AGNAR SVERRISSON Moss Restaurant, Iceland YANNICK ALLÉNO
London MICHA SCHÄFER Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Berlin
42 54
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Travel
90
SOUJOURNING THE SPORADES
FOUR takes a trip around the dreamy Greek island of Skiathos.
96
PARIS, JE T’AIME
A luxury layover in the French capital to indulge in delights old and new at Hôtel Pont Royal.
HOTEL HOT SEAT
Knut Wylde, General Manager of The Berkeley, talks to FOUR about London’s landmark luxury hotel.
92
RAISING THE STANDARDS
Seven really irresistible reasons to visit Cheval Blanc Randheli this season.
98
Property & Design
104
FIRST TRACKS
Flying the flag for exclusive-use rentals in the Italian Alps is Isolde Kostner and the luxurious Chalet Vilaiet.
110
EVERLASTING ELEGANCE
A look at luxury porcelain and antique reproductions from world-renowned ceramic manufacturer, Mottahedeh.
OCEANSIDE LIVING
Breathtaking views, stylish design and sophisticated amenities are making Arte Miami Surfside the hottest new kid on the block.
108
DESIGN TALKS
A moment with top architect and interior designer, Thomas Juul-Hansen.
113
CONTENTS
16
Welcome to the June/July edition of FOUR International –a joyful, life-affirming, feel-good celebration of lifestyle, gastronomy, travel and design.
In this edition, the FOUR editors have sought to capture the plethora of ways creativity comes to life and how people invent their own environments to support and nurture these talents.
Keeping this idea in mind, from page 30, we explore the lives of four gastronomic powerhouses playing a pivotal role in shaping and defining contemporary culinary arts. From legendary French chef Yannick Alléno’s new London restaurant Pavyllon to Paul Pairet of Ultraviolet in Shanghai, Agnar Sverisson of Moss Restaurant, Iceland, and Micha Schäfer of Nobelhart & Schmutzig in Berlin, each of these superb chefs are changing the way we think about food and how it connects to everything around us.
Likewise, our cocktail feature on Paradiso in Barcelona showcases the ingenious ways that people channel their thoughts, ideas and creativity. Inspired by the progress of humankind as a collective, you can read more about the cocktails from the award-winning bar from page 83.
We are also toasting travel for the season and all those who are passionate about creating a standout hospitality industry. We have joined forces with GlobeAir to bring you the latest in on-demand private aviation services from page 22, and journey around the globe in our travel section, beginning on page 89. From Paris to the Maldives and Skiathos to London, we have sought out premium destinations to visit this season. Whatever stretch of ocean or far-flung destination calling you, we hope the latest edition inspires you to stop dreaming and start forging unforgettable travel memories.
To finish things on a visual bang, our Property & Design section, beginning on page 103, takes you on a tour of a stunning private chalet in the Dolomites and exclusive oceanfront residences in Miami, while interior and architectural designer Thomas Juul-Hansen and ceramic connoisseurs, Mottahedeh, show us how they each create designs that stand the test of time.
Inspiring, informative and fun, we hope you enjoy this edition and join us as we salute the summer!
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Mark Sullivan
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COVER
The Syracuse Turquoise dinner plate by R. Haviland and C. Parlon, produced and distributed exclusively in the U.S by Mottahedeh. www.mottahedeh.com
18
Don’t forget to stay up-to-date with news, recipes, and features on our website at four-magazine.com or via Instagram at @four_magazine.
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WELCOME
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“What is luxury, if you don‘t have the time to enjoy it?“
Luxury means not having to be concerned with its practical matters, but to be able to enjoy the perfect moment in the company of family or friends. Totally free of worry, knowing that in the background there is a team who will fulfill all your wishes. This is why Maura Wasescha doesn’t just have exclusive properties for sale or rent. Maura Wasescha does more. She offers the perfect luxury service, so that the magic of the moment becomes timeless enjoyment.
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Lifestyle
CHEVAL BLANC RANDHELI, MALDIVES
DEFYING EXPECTATIONS
With over 15 years of industry experience and expertise, GlobeAir is changing the face of on-demand aviation charter services with the world’s largest fleet of Cessna Citation Mustang Jets.
Since 2008, GlobeAir has been a European leader in the entry-level private jet sector with its on-demand charter flights at competitive rates and top-quality in-flight amenities.
The Austria-based company offers fast and flexible travelling options that go above and beyond the usual premium services of private aviation.
As a result, GlobeAir boasts numerous awards, including the EBAA Silver Safety of Flight Award for achieving 60,000 hours of accident-free flying, and offers various lauded benefits such as allowing pets on board and offering personalised guest experienced.
Having started out as a faster and more flexible alternative to laborious car travel, company founder and CEO Bernhard Fragner has dedicated himself to ensuring that GlobeAir offers an unforgettable travel experience.
Since its inception, the company has not only seen impressive business growth but also boasts the world’s largest fleet of Cessna Citation Mustang jets. These slick and powerful light aircraft provide a swift and costeffective way of travelling around Europe privately and on short notice, with some flights happening 48 hours after booking.
One of GlobeAir’s draw cards that sets it apart from its contemporaries is undoubtedly the dedicated team onhand to create a tailor-made service for all your operation needs. With an all-in-one bespoke travel program, discerning clients can commute safely and privately
CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE GlobeAir’s impressive fleet of Cessna Citation Mustang Jets, the largest in the world; comfort, ease, and boarding in just 15mins; GlobeAir creates personalised journeys and experiences so you can sit back and relax; GlobeAir’s seamless transfer service; GlobeAir is a safe, luxurious, and cost- effective private aviation service for all your travel needs.
around the world while enjoying hassle-free transfers, superior hospitality facilities, and 24/7 assistance from a multilingual customer care team.
With all of European airports covered, even the smaller and more challenging airports like Samedan, Bolzano, and Sion are accessible with GlobeAir, making it the natural first choice when it comes to choosing seamless passage around the continent. Scheduling cost-effective, luxury travel with dedicated concierge services on your terms has never been easier, thanks to GlobeAir.
For bookings and inquiries, please call or WhatsApp +43 (7221) 727400 or email customercare@globeair.com
23 LIFESTYLE
IMAGES: GLOBEAIR AG
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CHEF SAFARI
Manhattan-based Michelin starred Australian chef Shaun Hergatt is praised for his geographically inspired dishes that draw upon childhood memories, nature, art and his daily life in New York. With an eye for classic, creative and delectable gastronomy the world over, Shaun takes us on a tour of his favourite hangouts in London, Paris, LA and Miami.
PARIS
Plénitude by Chef Arnaud Donckele at the Cheval Blanc Paris
“Firstly, I have to mention that the bread program is outstanding. Aside from this, the best plate I had was the Langoustine. I was amazed by the complexity of the sauce making and the impeccable quality of everything!”
Hôtel Plaza Athénée
“I find that the bar at Hôtel Plaza Athénée always a great ambiance and perfect for people watching. It has a great cocktail program and the Dom Perignon Champagne cabinet is impressive.” »
LONDON
Jamavar
“Javamar is a true high quality, fine dining experience in London. If you like Indian food, Jamavar is a must. Every dish is unique and tasty and leaves you craving for more.”
The Connaught Bar
“The Connaught Bar is a classic – the room is grand and tastefully decorated, and the cocktails are sensational. You feel like you are at a boutique hotel where servers pay attention to your every move and make you feel right at home.”
25 RESTAURANT DIARY
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Chef Shaun Hergatt; ultra-stylish decor and chic innovative cocktails at London’s award-winning The Connaught Bar; Intimate and immaculate dining at Plénitude by Chef Arnaud Donckele at the Cheval Blanc Paris.
LOS ANGELES
Gigi’s
“An elegant modern French Bistro. Even though they are ‘California inspired’, they manage to have plenty of essential classics and a great dessert program.”
Chateau Marmont Bar
“A true iconic Los Angeles hotel that somehow manages to stay relevant and cool. The bar at Chateau Marmont is beautiful with grand interiors and a gorgeous patio. Always great for people watching.”
MIAMI
The Surf Club
“Chef Thomas Keller knows what he is doing. Perfect location; Simple and elegant menu; Beautiful Room. The steak and seafood offerings are unbeatable.”
The Champagne Bar at Four Seasons Surfside or Mila
“I love staying at the Surf Side and find the bar elegant and soulful with its palm-fringed decor and superb beverage program. However, if I venture out, Mila always has a great bar scene.”
26 RESTAURANT DIARY
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Four Seasons Surfside Miami; The Champagne Bar at Four Seasons Surfside; Thomas Keller at The Surf Club Restaurant, serving contemprary continental and American classics.
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AGNAR SVERRISSON
Moss Restaurant, Iceland
2 FOUR CHEFS
YANNICK ALLÉNO
Pavyllon, London
MICHA SCHÄFER
Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Berlin
1 3 4
PAUL PAIRET
Ultraviolet, Shanghai
LESS IS MORE
With a passion for both his native lands and Asian flavours, Agnar Sverrisson of Moss Restaurant is creating a fresh culinary offering inspired by Iceland’s volcanic landscape. By highlighting simple, seasonal flavours and premium produce, his dishes are a window into the finest reimagined Icelandic cuisine.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CINDY RÚN XIAO LI FOR BLUE LAGOON ICELAND
Icelandic-born Agnar Sverrisson, aka Aggi, has been making waves in the culinary circuit ever since he started his career under the wing of legendary chef Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. His cooking prowess soon saw him promoted to head chef before taking the leap to start his own venture, Texture, which received and maintained a Michelin star for over 10 years. Although he hadn’t always seen cooking as his future career, Aggi remembers the exact moment when becoming a restauranteur would become his goal.
“In 1992, I read ‘White Teeth ’ by Marco Pierre White, and it was a complete game changer for me. I thought, right, well I am going to open a restaurant in London. From that point on, I set my mind to that, and eventually, I opened Texture.
“The two key things that have shaped my cooking style or philosophy over the years is the produce - you need top, top quality produce - and that less is more. As a young, under-confident chef, you think you have to have thirty items on a plate, which is just a mess, and all you actually need is just a few outstanding items to create a very special dish.
“Experience also naturally changes your cooking approach: I don’t try to overcomplicate things these days. I like a dish with nowhere to hide, letting the ingredients speak for themselves.
“I don’t use cream and butter in my cooking, only in the desserts, which keeps the flavours clean and fresh. I use a lot of good vinegar, oils, and dressings, so the food has character, but they are light because the heavy fats have been taken out.
“People don’t want a fine dining experience that leaves them stuffed. This may have been fashionable once upon a time, but now we find that people prefer to feel full but not uncomfortable. They can enjoy the food and feel nourished from it too.”
With Blue Lagoon Iceland having opened the Retreat Hotel and Moss Restaurant in 2018, Aggi was originally a visiting consultant for the flagship restaurant. It was in 2020 that he decided to make the move to man the helm on a full-time basis, and he hasn’t looked back. Over these last 5 years, the concept has been pared back to the simpler, slicker version that it is now, with one of the main driving »
32 AGNAR SVERRISSON
LEFT The dining room at Moss Restaurant.
« forces being the other-worldly surroundings. Occupying the highest point at Blue Lagoon, Moss offers stunning views of the volcanic horizon, so it was vital for the chefs to see how this unparalleled vista could be incorporated into the gastronomic experience.
“We are in the middle of nowhere and just have this beautiful nature all around us, so really, it makes sense that this would be the thing that ties the whole Moss experience together.
“Elements such as moss-covered stones and lava rocks are implemented into the cooking so that we can bring the outside in plus add a little theatre to the whole thing. The harmony between the food and the landscape is amazing. As soon as you experience this coordination of elements, you will see and understand everything in a whole new way.”
The menu at Moss reflects the seasons, which is undoubtedly a challenge in a country as extreme as Iceland. However, the kitchen uses creative techniques and premium accompaniments to enhance, preserve, and accompany their select products. During the more
fruitful seasons, the menu transforms into something truly magical.
“As soon as Iceland comes to life after winter, we are like children in the playground with all the delicious ingredients we have access to. That said, the main ingredients usually stay the same such as langoustine, crab, lamb, etc., and it’s just the garnishes that change accordingly. This is where I tend to introduce fresher Asian flavours like ginger, lemongrass, and lime leaves.
“The ingredients lead the dishes here because not everything is guaranteed. Growing conditions can vary from year to year, so we plan the upcoming menus as and when we know what we will have access to. We don’t rush to do this either, as we like maintaining and upholding quality above all.”
As a hotel restaurant, Moss isn’t necessarily somewhere with regular clients per se, so another reason why Aggi feels that changing the menu weekly or monthly is somewhat unnecessary. In fact, Aggi believes that by changing the menu less, the kitchen is given more time to focus on consistency and creating a seamless service. »
36 AGNAR SVERRISSON
PREVIOUS SPREAD Pertuis Green Asparagus, Cashews, Miso, 60-month Parmesan. RIGHT Sustainable Icelandic Lamb, Spiced Celeriac, Wild Garlic, Lamb Jus.
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« “I always say, don’t change the menu just for the sake of it. If you have something better or as good, then yes, of course, but otherwise, if it works, just leave it as it is. My chefs know what they are doing because they have time to get to know each dish on the menu.”
With the menus echoing the fruits of the land, guests are invited to travel around Iceland via haute cuisine. From the mountains and fjords to the farmlands and seas, Iceland’s diverse and bountiful pastures inspire the restaurant’s contemporary take on traditional flavours.
“We are working with a fantastic cooperative of local farmers called Icelandic Lamb. They rear the delicious sheep and lamb we use and safeguard and protect the
quality and provenance of all Icelandic Lamb. They also have specific slaughtering rules where they generally only slaughter once a year during the lambing season, and it’s then frozen, and you can only buy it frozen. However, we have organised a partnership where we get fresh lamb every month, and the quality is just incredible.
“The flavour of Icelandic lamb is quite distinctive; it is mild, tender, and delicate, thanks to free roaming and grazing in pristine grasslands. It really is world-class for a reason.
“We also get great beef and there is a growing trend of new producers and cultivators, but another highlight would be the seafood. I love fish, so I will try to include cod, »
LEFT Fine dining with a view of the volcanic landscape surrounding The Retreat at Blue Lagoon.
38 AGNAR SVERRISSON
RIGHT Norwegian Langoustine, Cauliflower Textures, Sesame Dressing, Coriander.
“The flavour of Icelandic lamb is quite distinctive; it is mild, tender and has a delicate taste thanks to free roaming and feeding in pristine grasslands. It really is world-class for a reason.”
« halibut, langoustines, etc., basically, anything we can source from the sea around the island. We have a delicious Icelandic sea urchin that we serve almost as it is, just ice cold and with a little bit of acidity, and the clean, pure flavours are such a reflection of the country as a whole.”
By the same token, the restaurant itself is very low-key, focusing on quality furniture, chic Scandi design, and a soft ambience that feels clean and pure. Although a high-end restaurant, the vibe leans toward relaxed, casual luxury.
“We want the priority to be on service, produce, and the view. This means we avoid stiff, sterile, formal dining procedures and offer a more comfortable and relaxed experience. Moss is about feeling good, feeling moved by your food, and connecting with Iceland.”
Having become a destination in its own right, Moss exquisitely reinvents Icelandic cuisine with flair and panache. As a result, in a few short years, the restaurant has garnered approval from guests and critics alike, including a Michelin Guide Recommendation.
“People enjoy the unexpected theatre in what seems like an unassuming restaurant. They are wowed by
the details, and we are proud of what we are creating for people.
“If I have learnt anything, it’s that you cook for your guests, not for yourself. Years ago, I would cook for myself, and I was trying to be too clever and showy; it was all about me. Now I listen to my guests and cook for them - this is how, I think, you create a successful restaurant.”
With a firm belief that you must put the guest first and make their choices the prime concern, alongside a positive workplace, Aggi sees no other future for fine dining.
“We really try to encourage a healthy working environment for our staff. We have generous hours and pay in Iceland, so the industry has a high retention rate. At the end of the day, this translates into happier staff and, therefore, a happier interaction with guests.”
Every element of The Retreat at Blue Lagoon — from design, architecture, and lighting to hospitality, wellness, and, of course, cuisine invites you to explore the length and breadth of this magical landscape. Both exacting and entertaining, Moss is the perfect addition to what is already a dreamy retreat hotel.
40 AGNAR SVERRISSON
RIGHT Coconut, White Chocolate, Kaffir Lime, Mango, Passion Fruit.
DANCING IN THE RAIN
Commonly regarded as one of the world’s finest chefs, Chef Yannick Alléno holds 15 Michelin stars across his 14 global restaurants in iconic destinations such as Paris, Dubai, Monaco, Seoul and Courchevel. With his long-awaited venture now open in London, FOUR speaks to the culinary king about his latest reign supreme.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SYLVAIN BRIS, RICHARD WAITE, PETER VITALE & FOUR SEASONS
YANNICK ALLÉNO
Since the beginning of his career, Yannick Alléno has been known for his reinvention of modern French cuisine with dishes rooted in French gastronomy but inspired by modern techniques and seasonal ingredients. His culinary empire has been a force to be reckoned with, proving time and time again that his produce-led cuisine based on classic French techniques is a recipe for success the world over.
FOUR spoke to Yannick back in 2020 after he had just received a three-star rating from the Michelin Guide for his restaurant Pavyllon, in Pavillon Ledoyen. Having opened the restaurant the year before, Pavyllon joined a sister restaurant, L’Abysse, to make Pavillon Ledoyen the first independent fine-dining destination globally to have three star-rated restaurants in the 2020 Michelin Guide. As always, the chef remained humble and gracious even though this accomplishment is something that will go down in gastronomic history.
“A lot has happened since 2020! I opened my very first chocolate shop with my former pastry chef, Aurélien Rivoire, which is called Alléno & Rivoire, in Paris. It is a modern work of chocolate linked to cooking and sauce. And it is, above all, a gastronomic chocolate without sugar.
Over the last three years, Yannick has also made the monumental decision to finally bring his award-winning cuisine to London - a city he has yet to conquer. Yannick’s 2023 debut at the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane brings his elegant yet approachable dining experience to the British capital with Pavyllon London.
Commenting on the significant new opening, Chef Yannick says, “It has always been a dream for me to open in London. The location of one’s restaurant is not a decision to be taken lightly; there are a lot of factors to consider, and I chose London for many reasons, but I think had the opportunity arisen earlier on in my career, I wouldn’t have been ready. London has immense competition; it holds »
44
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“Although offering Pavyllon signature dishes, the menu is deeply rooted in the local soil and culture. For example, there will be a tea-time proposal and, at the bar, cocktails based on extracts. Everything has been carefully thought out to create a place that speaks to Londoners and offers them a real place to live.”
PREVIOUS PAGE Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane - one of London’s most iconic streets. LEFT Raviolis. RIGHT Yannick with his skilled kitchen team.
YANNICK ALLÉNO
« the gold standard for quality and professionalism within the food industry.
“I am also so excited that this initial partnership with the iconic Four Seasons brand will be conceived in London, where I have long wanted to open. Together, we’ve created a concept that will reflect the contemporary and vibrant nature of the city while appealing to locals, visitors, and all who enter its doors.”
“I love London - it is lively, vibrant and home to some great Chefs, whom I’m fortunate to be friends with. There is a great amount of mutual respect between professionals on the London chef scene - when I announced I was opening in London, a number of my chef friends who have restaurants here got in touch to offer advice. London has amazing energy - I love the admiration of eating and drinking together and how much Londoners love good food.”
“The concept behind Pavyllon was to create an allpurpose restaurant with a luxurious yet humble feel to it.
Pavyllon will embody the spirit of gastronomy, but it won’t be uncomfortable or over the top. It will cater to Friday dinners with friends, Sunday lunches with family or solo weekday lunches between meetings. Upstairs will be a private dining area - very much its own identity but with equally impressive design, drinks and food to deliver the ultimate hospitality experience.
“We have used internal mobility within the group to distinguish. Members of the Pavillon Ledoyen team, who have had time to grow and develop their skills, have joined the Pavyllon London teams. We have also recruited external people who are really talented. These are the men and women who will bring the place to life and who will guarantee this precious moment that we want to share with our guests.
“Pavyllon London is, therefore, a continuation of a concept: the place is built around a gastronomic counter designed by Chahan Minassian, and the menu features »
48
LEFT ‘Aiguillettes’ of fish with truffle, celery and butter sauce.
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« Pavyllon’s signature dishes. Chahan Missinan and I worked very closely on the design of both the restaurant and the private dining area. He will bring fantastic theatre to the room - the decor is such an important aspect to consider when creating a broader atmosphere, and Pavyllon London will be a sincerely welcoming yet chic venue at the same time.
“Although offering Pavyllon signature dishes, the menu is deeply rooted in the local soil and culture. For example, there will be a tea-time proposal and, at the bar, cocktails based on extracts. Everything has been carefully thought out to create a place that speaks to Londoners and offers them a real space to live.
“The challenge of Pavyllon London is to adapt a culinary proposal and a restaurant concept to the expectations of local customers. This is why this type of project requires listening and questioning. It is necessary to succeed in being part of a neighbourhood by creating meaning »
50 YANNICK ALLÉNO
LEFT The outdoor terrace of Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane. RIGHT Surf & Turf.
“The concept of Pavyllon as I conceive it is a warm and relaxed gastronomic counter, with a culinary proposal that is sharp and has an identity, giving pride of place to local products and the art of the sauce.”
YANNICK ALLÉNO
« while bringing added value. The concept of Pavyllon, as I conceive it, is a warm and relaxed gastronomic counter with a culinary proposal that is sharp and has an identity, giving pride of place to local products and the art of the sauce.
“I was lucky enough to get contacts to work with 100% local producers: Neal’s Yard for cheese, Aubrey Allen for meat, Flying Fish for fish, Keltic for lobster and scallops, and Ampersand Dairy for table butter, all of which have helped me compose a menu with the most beautiful products of the region.
“Naturally, there is the other element that will shape the menu - the sauces. I define myself first and foremost as a Chef Saucier, so sauces are an integral part of my cooking. I work on my sauces using extraction, fermentation and cryoconcentration methods to extract the quintessence of each product. The sauce can then take different forms: the nori seaweed broth that accompanies the King Crab; the Béarnaise sauce with sesame oil that sublimates the Surf &
Turf of wagyu beef and lobster; the juice with yellow wine and walnut oil of the Cordon Bleu of veal with béchamel sauce; or the vegetable extractions of the Vegetable Ravioli.
Overall, guests can expect a kitchen which offers an intimate cooking experience - all built around an immersive counter. I grew up in bistros, cooking or being cooked for behind countertops. I want to deliver this same experience for my guests, so I am incredibly excited to bring this to Pavyllon in London.
“In fact, my hope for the future, and something I would feel most proud of, would be if Londoners take ownership of this place that we have designed for them. A dynamic restaurant, open daily for lunch and dinner, conveying the philosophy of “dancing in the rain”.
Located within Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane in a freshly designed space, Pavyllon London will be a community hub for discerning local patrons and international travellers alike.
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LEFT Warm potatoes.
THE ART OF FUSION
BIG BANG UNICO GOURMET
Damascus steel case. In-house UNICO chronograph movement. Limited to 200 pieces.
REESTABLISHING CONNECTIONS
An unassuming restaurant with a bold message, Noblehart & Schmutzig is transforming the meaning of place-based cuisine in the Berlin region and beyond. FOUR speaks to Micha Schäfer, chef and co-founder of the award-winning restaurant, about the importance of producer-defined cuisine and our role in protecting the future of food.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNE SCHÖNHARTING, MARKO SEIFERT & MEIKE PETERS
I come from a part of Germany with no food culture, so I didn’t really know what it meant to be a cook or a chef. I was just looking for a paid job, so sort of blindly fell into the kitchen. What got me hooked was that it’s a very structured place - if it’s a good kitchen, that is.
“It’s not like other jobs where there might be a lot of opinions or interpreting information; in a kitchen it’s very ordered and clear, which appealed to me a lot back then. I liked knowing what I was supposed to do, how I was supposed to do it, how fast I had to get it done, and when to do it. It came very naturally to me, and I kept going. You could say it was a personality trait that really got me into it.
After exploring formal training options and testing out other kitchens, Micha soon felt that he would have to venture out independently in order to cook in a place that aligned with his beliefs. This led him to open the awardwinning restaurant, Nobelhart & Schmutzig with partner Billy Wagner just two years after his journey into the world of culinary arts began, a pretty impressive feat for any chef, formally trained or not.
By re-writing some of the dogma associated with a fine dining kitchen, Micha has created an alternative version of what a gourmet restaurant can be and how, even in a city like Berlin, it can approach food in a much more place- and people-conscious manner.
“When I hire people, I don’t look at where they have trained or their qualifications. What matters so much more is your experience, the chefs you have worked with, and
how you continue to teach yourself new things and learn about the place you are in.
“At Nobelhart & Schmutzig, we call our concept ‘vocally local’. This means we are very strict about only using produce from Berlin-Brandenburg. With these restrictions, we create flavours and tastes that are automatically ‘homely’ – Berlin.
“Within a month of starting my training, I began to understand and shape my cooking style and philosophy. It was also around that time that Rene Redzepi’s first book came out. After reading it, I realised that cooking can be a journey of understanding your surroundings, yourself as a human, understanding craftsmanship, and making something entirely, crazily different through that.
“Over the years, I have also realised that to be creative you have to take time to understand who you are, how you are influenced, how you treat yourself, who you surround yourself with, and how you spend your energy every day. Without this, it’s hard to put out something new. Of course, this is a long journey and something that starts ‘at home’. How this philosophy translates at the restaurant is via the provenance of our ingredients.
“You could measure in km the proximity of where we source the food, but we prefer to concentrate on humans. When they are within a certain distance, we can see them, visit their sites, see their produce, and hear their stories, which naturally limits the parameters to a 2-2.5hr drive; otherwise, it’s just ridiculous.
“For me, there is no other way to approach a dining concept. I finished my training, and I was cooking for two years before I decided that I’m either going to fully »
56 MICHA SCHÄFER
LEFT ‘Vocally Local’ and promoting produceled cuisine.
« commit to focusing on promoting and working with regional produce or I am going to stop cooking altogether.
“My partner Billy came along and he was looking for a chef and I was looking for a place, and we opened the restaurant. For both of us, it was very clear from the outset that this was the direction we wanted to follow.
“From my perspective as a creative outlet, I wanted to learn the craft behind cooking and handling produce properly: to have the whole animal and learn how to take it apart, how to preserve it, how to cook it. I want to understand how it was raised, all the details.
“For Billy, it was important for him to tell a story rather than be just another restaurant that doesn’t know why they are doing what they’re doing. He wanted to have clear direction and communication to the outside world.”
With this distinct objective in mind, it was during 2015 that the pair set the foundations for what would soon become one of Germany’s most ‘political’ restaurants due to its polarising attitude towards gastronomy, farming, and the region’s entire food chain. At Nobelhart & Schmutzig the focus is on the people behind the food: the farmers, producers, and the service staff because these are the people who matter, and what they are doing matters for the entire future of our food culture.
This strictly ‘local’ policy also means that while you may not get premium seafood from the Mediterranean or delicacies from afar, you will be able to see the name of each producer against each menu item and understand precisely where your food came from and who worked hard to get it your plate.
“The whole menu is very simplistic, meaning that what we are trying to do is focus on the quality of the product and that you can really taste this. An example of a dish that displays this idea, and, actually, our whole food philosophy, is the chicken with coriander seed. These are the only two things on the plate, and both of these ingredients are so tasty by themselves that we don’t use any extra kitchen theatrics to distract from these elements.
“We work together with a farmer who breeds incredible chickens. His entire breeding process is very open to me and I know what’s happening and that it’s good. As a guest, you’re not just getting a dish - you’re getting a beautiful reflection of the hard work this farmer puts into raising these chickens and most people love this idea.
“Brandenburg is special. It has a lot of history with the separation of Berlin from the surrounding country for nearly 30 years. Because of this, many farmers can now start their own little businesses, and, as a result, we have a lot of new farms here, which is excellent from an economic and agricultural perspective. It’s different from Provence or the North of Spain, but it has a lot of personality and produces premium ingredients.
“Obviously, some of the dishes can be pretty polarising for guests. For some reason, the simplicity is uncomfortable, like they need more in order to feel it’s a complete dish. But this is ok, too - we have a lot of learning and unlearning regarding our current attitude or expectations towards food.
“There are two things for me that are essential as a chef. You need to learn how things grow or how animals are raised; otherwise, you don’t know what makes something »
LEFT Kale and parsley. RIGHT Guests can watch as the kitchen creates simple dishes using the region’s tastiest seasonal ingredients.
MICHA SCHÄFER 59
« good or not good quality food. To learn these things you need to talk to the people who actually grow it. To get an understanding of how it all works, you need to be a part of it and communicate with the producers.
“The learning is one perspective, and the other, the future perspective, is that as a business, you’re going to have to reinvent yourself many times, and to do that, you need a big network of people that are connected to both gastronomy and agriculture. We create simple products with the producers we work with and sell these to public. Things like yogurt, feta cheese, or fresh vegetables, these are things that come from a natural evolution of working together, but are also a safety net.”
It’s clear that at Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Micha and Billy are serving much more than just a tasty treat that uses culinary buzzwords: they are serving an entire philosophy in the hope of promoting environmental and economic sustainability for the local people and landscape. It offers an opportunity for people to proudly embrace their locality and use this to create a more positive identity moving forward.
Likewise, whether people accept it or not, food is inherently political, and our communities both shape it and are shaped by it. It is something that affects everyone, and making improvements to our eating culture is a necessary component of social change.
“Food is political in many senses, the most obvious being where and how you spend your money. For example, suppose you spend your money in a chain supermarket. In that case, that’s who will have the money and who, in turn, has the power over aspects of production, control,
regulation, inspection, distribution etc., of the food we buy. Essentially you lose control and are powerless over the quality or the trustworthiness of the produce.
“Other areas in which food is political is how food has become a luxury. The action of going to a restaurant, sitting down, and doing nothing but eat and drink is something that has experienced ‘value change’, i.e. the modification of people’s values within this context.
“As such, people don’t really understand the true costs of this experience. If you really want to pay your chefs, your service staff etc., well and fairly and have their work hours reflect this, people generally wouldn’t be able to afford to go out to eat. This is something that really needs to change, but I don’t see this happening at the moment.”
Feeling passionately about this element of the restaurant industry, Nobelhart & Schmutzig are attempting to be the change they want to see happening by implementing small but significant changes to how they operate.
“At the beginning of 2022, we swapped to a 4-day week to get working hours down, and we are much stricter over the general protocol of clocking in and out. Before we didn’t pay much attention, but now it has to be written down so there is total transparency of when people are due time off to balance everything out.
“We have also raised the prices and added a service charge to guarantee a tip every time, plus ensuring that more money goes to better staff pay.
“Another aspect we are working on is to change the whole hierarchy of the restaurant. We want to move away from the classic kitchen model where I am head chef and »
60 MICHA SCHÄFER
LEFT Leek and egg.
SUMMER IN BADEN-BADEN
No other destination has kept its reputation as ‘The Summer Capital of Europe’ over for centuries quite like Baden-Baden. Find out how to spend an unforgettable summer in Germany’s stunningly beautiful Black Forest region with these helpful pointers.
Nestled in the north of the Black Forest, in Southwest Germany, lies this small and impressively cosmopolitan city that has made its mark as a haven for Europe’s royals, politicians, writers, musicians and international jet set ever since the Belle Époque. Today, the city that gained UNESCO World Heritage status in 2021, as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe, is still a magnet for guests from all over the world, especially during the summer months.
DELICIOUS SUMMER CUISINE
From Michelin-starred restaurants to authentic little bistros, there’s plenty to whet the appetite in Baden-Baden while the warm summer evenings invite you to sit outside for dinner. The city center is car-free, and home to numerous parks and gardens, perfect for soaking up the fresh countryside air during a stroll post dinner with an artisanal gelato in hand. Or sit in a cosy wine tavern and sip a glass of local Riesling from the Rebland, the sun-drenched wine growing area surrounding Baden-Baden.
SUMMER SMELLS LIKE ROSES
Over the centuries, Baden-Baden’s green and blooming calling card became famous throughout the world for its overwhelming abundance of the most exotic varieties of flowers and trees. There are the Gönneranlage and the unmissable Lichtentaler Allee, a 3 km long green oasis waiting to be explored. Glide along the park and gardens in a horse and carriage ride to add some extra flair to your Baden-Baden experience. Stunning in summer is the Rose
Society Garden with its over 400 rose varieties in full bloom. Equally unforgettable is their intoxicating scent only during the summer months.
ENDLESS SUMMER NIGHTS
Baden-Baden is a treasure trove of gorgeous architecture stemming from Belle Époque, neoclassical to art noveau. There is something beautiful to see at every turn. During the mild summer months countless concerts, spanning across all music genres are played outside with the city as a backdrop. Enjoy a delightful summery evening concert in front of the iconic Kurhaus or in midst of the greenry of the Lichtentaler Allee or at the castle Neuweier that boasts with medieval charm.
Music has always played an important role in BadenBaden and here, the summer-night-feeling never ends, as concerts, musicals and ballets are performed all year round. Around 150 performances of the highest caliber are staged at the Festival Hall Baden-Baden, Germany’s largest concert and opea house, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year.
Baden-Baden is simply a destination that cannot be missed and a must-see for any traveller this summer.
Read more online at baden-baden.com
61 FOUR PROMOTION
LEFT The Lichtentaler Alle, a green oasis © Baden-Baden Kur & Tourismus GmbH.
RIGHT The iconic Kurhaus, © Baden-Baden Kur & Tourismus GmbH, C. Cancellieri.
MICHA SCHÄFER
« move towards something that has a more cooperative element with creative director and operational director roles. The ‘big-ego-chef-thing’ is just not interesting and not for the staff, so we want to create a new narrative that works for us as a team.”
This joint effort means that the menu is decided firstly by what’s available, and then the dish creation comes from various perspectives: the farmer, the product, and the team.
At Nobelhart & Schmutzig, it’s all about creating a community – an idea that even extends to the configuration of the restaurant itself. The central focal point is the kitchen; everyone sits on a big, long counter looking in. Everyone can see what’s happening and feel part of the kitchen and the cooking experience. The music is loud and different from what you would associate with fine dining, but it’s
fun, authentic, and celebrates hard work.
“It’s a bit rougher than current fine dining: more like a bar-club-pub vibe, but I believe it’s the beginning of a new version of fine dining that will keep evolving over the next few years.
“I think fine dining will eventually be just one table or around the counter to make it much more user-friendly for the staff because, ultimately, the staff are the most important and expensive part of the restaurant.
“Fine dining will only be affordable and able to survive when it adapts even more to the real needs with the hospitality industry. We also need to question what we get for the menu we pay X amount for: is this the best produce? Can we get a better experience somewhere else? Can this restaurant do better?” »
62
LEFT Simple yet elegant interiors that champion craftsmanship and creativity. RIGHT Chicken and majoram.
“As a guest, you’re not just getting a dish – you’re getting a beautiful reflection of the hard work this farmer puts into raising these chickens and most people love this idea.”
« Although describing it as an hyped-up nightclub, it’s evident that Micha and the team have worked tirelessly to create an experience that goes beyond the norm of eating out. The entire restaurant has been carefully considered to allow you to connect with your food, be present with your companions and other guests, and understand the value of your food.
“We want you to forget where you are and just focus on being in this room, being present, drinking wine and getting wasted, eating well and having fun, knowing that tomorrow is a new day. That’s what we are trying to do.
“Some people love it, and some people hate it. The food is minimalistic, and I don’t cook in a safe style, so this can often go against people’s expectations of going to eat and a Michelin-starred restaurant.
“People tend to have an opinion about us, whether good or bad, but I think this is the most important thing. I am trying to move people in a way, and that definitely works, but it doesn’t mean people always like it. Our strong public message can unsettle people with what we have to say.”
In addition to being strong advocators for regional producers, Nobelhart & Schmutzig co-founded Die Gemeinschaft to establish a new and better eating culture for all. Good, healthy food should provide a future, perspectives and identity for the people who produce it and the companies that transform raw ingredients into fine products.
“We are organising a symposium for Die Gemeinschaft, an official network of people we co-founded. Due to take place on the 1tth and 12th of September, it will bring together
farmers, chefs, and producers from in and around Berlin who previously may not have been in contact, but can now access a pool of essential resources and share information.
“It is a senate-sponsored project that connects farmers to restaurants in a much-needed push for regional gastronomy and food production. The symposium will get everyone together for 2 days where industry professionals can share information and educational programs.
“It’s a really special initiative that has transformed the whole landscape of the food chain around BerlinBrandenburg and ideally will set a benchmark for future farming and food practices across the region, country, and, who knows, Europe-wide.
An evening at Nobelhart & Schmutzig is a step out of the ordinary. Yes, there is a ten-course set menu, accompanied by delicious wines, beers, and spirits ready to be gourmandised, but the experience is also distinguished by its commitment to assuming responsibility for changing the current narrative.
As Die Gemeinschaft ’s manifesto outlines, “changing things is often uncomfortable and difficult to do alone”, so Nobelhart & Schmutzig are paving the way with the finest food and drink from Brandenburg and inviting everyone along for the ride.
“No cameras are allowed inside, so we can be free of surveillance in order to be who you are and truly let go. Our guests are encouraged to consciously uncouple from daily life and the concerns of the outside world. For the duration of the meal, the focus remains solely on a taste of the region.”
64 MICHA SCHÄFER
LEFT Potato, apple, and summer savoury.
ASSOCIATION OF TASTE
Described as turbulent, unpredictable, and unconventional, Paul Pairet has garnered an international reputation for his sophisticated, forward-thinking cuisine for over a decade. FOUR speaks to the chef and creator of three Michelin-starred restaurant, Ultraviolet, in Shanghai to learn more about his unique blend of experimentation and substance.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT WRIGHT & GRAEME KENNEDY
Having followed Paul Pairet since the early days of opening Ultraviolet, it’s clear that this type of chef doesn’t come along very often. Steadfast in his dedication to an essentialist philosophy about what food and hospitality should be, his three-starred restaurant continues to be recognised for its daring experimentation, inspired dishes and, above all, its unique approach to the concept of taste.
After travelling the world with his craft – Paris, Hong Kong, Sydney, Jakarta, and Istanbul, Paul landed in Shanghai, a place that would finally allow his creativity to shine in a way that was true to him and his natural culinary style.
“The move to Shanghai was originally to open Jade on 36, a fine dining for Shangri-La. It was a great chance to find somewhere where I had the freedom to express myself. It was important for me to find this space at that time because the field would have been much narrower if I had stayed in France or Europe. The move to Shanghai just happened to be the right place and at the right time for me to make sense of my career and facilitate my journey moving forward.”
Having conceived the preliminary idea for his restaurant concept in Australia, in 1996, and coming close to opening a softer version in Paris with Baccarat, in 2002, Paul finally opened the 10-seat restaurant Ultraviolet, in 2012.
“Without sounding conceited, Shanghai is also a place with the energy to support a project that was a bit forwardthinking at that time.
“The early trials were much different from what we have now; it was just a simple table for 12 guests with dimmed light and a little music focused on each dish. I was a bit pretentious at that time, having a beard and thinking that I would play Jesus Christ by the end of the “Last Supper”.
“Now, we try to be a restaurant that is a good place to enjoy something more conceptual and edgy but also a place where the food has substance. As we say, Ultraviolet is avant-garde but figurative: with flesh and bone.
“Equally, although the layout may have slightly changed over the years, the core concept of Ultraviolet remains the same. I believe that to cook at one’s best, you need to get rid of the constraints of a classic restaurant, that is to say, à la carte Á la carte gives the guest a lot of freedom, but it constrains the cooking and prevents it from flowing naturally.”
By this, Paul is referring to how food is pre-prepared or put in cold storage just in case someone might order it. He believes cooking should be more natural and something prepared freshly in the moment, not something cooked, assembled, and served according to an acceptable timeframe for typical restaurant standards.
“As clever as mise en place is, especially for Michelin-star restaurants, this is somehow different from the natural way of cooking. The most organic form of cooking is inviting people over for a meal, and you cook and serve at the peak of the dish.
“It is a huge asset for a chef to be able to cook or to impose a dinner menu and to also be able to control the time.” »
68
PAIRET
LEFT Rain in UK, ambiance pairing with “Fish No Chips”, UVA menu.
PAUL
« With this in mind, Paul wanted to find the freedom and fluidity of casual hospitality while delivering a truly memorable and avant-guarde experience. By combining specific smells, textures, flavours, and techniques to stimulate the senses and call upon our subconscious, he embarked on what is now one of the world’s most unique and immersive dining experiences.
“In terms of my cooking style, I haven’t really changed at all. Since we opened in 2012, the experience has remained the same. Naturally, the dishes have changed, but the pattern is the same. The menus are very complicated – the last menu was 4 years in the making – but the ingredients, the principle, and the way of thinking are all exactly the same, and I intend to keep it this way.
“This field is endless, so I am naturally evolving without trying. I am competing with very long menus in a very transient industry so that in itself forces me to constantly change and find new ways to continue to express the same message.”
Rather than trying to change Ultraviolet to fit the changing demands of the industry, he has instead chosen to use it as a springboard to develop elsewhere. This has translated into his other restaurants, Mr & Mrs Bund and Polux, where Paul and his team can explore alternative menus, formats, and concepts but still based on the same fundamental approach to the cooking and eating experience – to find a balance between entertainment and intimacy, where the level of taste and cooking is par excellence.
“The nature of Ultraviolet is very dissimilar to most other restaurants, so it is not something that crosses over into my other restaurants, nor would I want it to. At Ultraviolet, we have a whole ‘scenario’ for every dish, which includes tailor-made lighting, music, and ambience. The goal of every scenario is to create an atmosphere dedicated to each dish, which naturally prolongs the impression and memories of what you are eating.”
Although its approach is spectacularly individual, Paul makes it clear that Ultraviolet is still a restaurant, and food remains paramount to the experience. Ultraviolet proudly stands for all the classic characteristics of a restaurant but has extended the capacity to illustrate what a dish can be.
“When you are in a typical restaurant, the chef also has a clear intention of what they are cooking, how they will plate the dish, how they would like people to feel etc., but due to the constraints I previously mentioned, they cannot control the context of the dish.
“We have the same objective, but we have combined the two so that the chef’s intention is mirrored in the delivery and atmosphere when you eat the dish.
“It’s hard to describe the experience of Ultraviolet. It sounds cliche, but it really has to be witnessed to understand that there is a much higher level of concentration from the guest because we prepare and control the entire context of the dish, which is generally not possible in other restaurants. For example, if you serve a mushroom in a kind of autumnal setting, with the right melancholic music, »
LEFT Butter Abalone.
RIGHT ‘Big Nonos a Moelle-Collin’.
71 PAUL PAIRET
«
moody autumnal lighting etc., your experience of those flavours, smells, and textures are all exaggerated.
“I would say the common denominator between all my restaurants is level of taste. The difference is that Ultraviolet has the same menu for a long time, and any changes mean people can expect something new for every dish, but not necessarily the ingredients. We go only by one element and never use more than this because it wastes creativity that can be used elsewhere. So this could mean a new technique, the concept of the dish or the association of taste, but we don’t focus on a seasonally changing menu.”
By removing unnecessary elements in expressing the idea of the dish, Paul can better focus on the intensity and flavour of what is being served. He does this by going to the roots of why something becomes a classic: what are the essential reasons or ingredients that have made it so popular and uses this to create an alternative version of those elements.
He admits that he is not subtle with his approach to food, and, therefore, the plate reflects this. The aim is to draw people into what they are eating, so they can truly embrace the dining experience and delve into what he calls “psycho taste”: an exploration of our preconceived notions of taste based on memory, imagination, experience, and culture.
“As a restaurant, we are not always perfect or precise; even Ultraviolet has dishes that are not the most sophisticated, but we make sure we use the same essentialist philosophy. This ensures that the dish is reduced to the
most essential elements needed to convey what we are trying to express. Our aim is to drive the psycho taste and use our subconscious to create a tangible effect on what we are eating.
“We also don’t work with the traditional philosophy of seasonality in the sense that we change the menu based on what’s currently available. The menu stays the same because the dishes are conceptual, and we adapt the ingredient requirements to wherever is producing the best quality for that time. If there is one element that is a seasonal element, like crab, for example, we will source whichever crab is tastiest and in season during the course of the year. But, we are not driven by this. The menu could be served from the beginning of the year to the end.”
One dish from the latest ‘UVD’ menu that demonstrates this idea perfectly is the ‘Bouillabaisse Nespressoup’. Encased within a Nespresso capsule that is placed into the Nespresso machine guests are delivered an instant, concentrated Espresso-like Fish Soup, which is served with a sugarcube-like bread crouton to playfully mimic this everyday commodity that has reached cult status.
This idea is not bound by seasons or locality but is a savorous expression designed to be thought-provoking.
Combining both a flavourful and entertaining experience, guests are immediately required to start thinking out what they are sampling in an entirely new way: What is this? How have they done it? What does it mean? The idea is that food isn’t just about taste; it’s about »
72 PAUL PAIRET
LEFT Black Cod Comb plus accompaniments.
« the emotions a dish evokes and how this correlates to our subconscious and the things that shape and influence our perceptions of what we eat.
“We follow the same curve that a traditional menu would use, starting slowly, crescendoing in the middle and then gradually peaking down to the end, but we just do this over 20 courses. “Each dish has its own distinct personality, which at times can even be quite extreme in its flavour, but it will be evened out in whatever comes next. The dishes are not supposed to be self-contained elements offering a complete balance of flavours. In fact, every course is designed to compensate for what came before and introduces what’s to come because it’s part of a larger narrative.”
Each dish at Ultraviolet is highly personal, and Paul explains that there is a reason behind everything on the menu. These aren’t random ingredients pulled together but a concept shaped and moulded for up to years before it appears in the final cut.
“There is always some liaison with my travels, memories, or daily life that filters into the dishes I create. In the case of the Nespresso capsule, we were working with them, but the concept also fascinates me. I wanted the machine to be able to produce something else, something unexpected, so this is where the idea came from.
“Sometimes, even when I create a dish, and I don’t think there is a reason, later on, I realise that there was a link to something that has happened to me or that I have experienced at some point.” »
74 PAUL PAIRET
LEFT Picnic on green meadows, ambiance pairing of “Fish Tupperware”, UVB menu. RIGHT Black Cod “Tupperware”.
“To cook at one’s best, you need to get rid of the constraints of a classic restaurant, that is to say, à la carte.
Á la carte gives a lot of freedom to the guest, but it constrains the cooking and prevents it from flowing naturally.”
« With menus at Ultraviolet taking up to four years to develop, Paul has taken a mythological approach to the creative process. He divides the year into periods to work on projects and time dedicated to being in the kitchen, but he doesn’t see the latter as a crossover with the time spent devoted to developing new dishes.
“The period spent specifically creating new dishes is incredibly satisfying but very taking. It’s a hugely draining process that requires my full time and attention. We like to take this structured approach because it means we can be absorbed entirely and spend quality time creating and not distracted by everything else. After I have developed a menu, I give myself at least a year off of creating before I have to think about it again.
“I also don’t tend to feel the urge to create more dishes for the menu after this period because it’s such a thorough, creative process. Since 2012, we have created five menus, which are still available to guests. They don’t replace the last, just offer an alternative collection”.
Although his commitment and hard work can’t be denied, Paul still humbly places some of his success over the last decade on luck. The idea for Ultraviolet was 15 years in the making and even failed to take off in a few of the earlier launches. He feels that it was just a lucky combination of factors that finally allowed Ultraviolet to have its moment and for his dream to become a reality.
“The highest point in my career will remain the day I opened Ultraviolet. Although I have had Ultraviolet for a
long time now, which is the ultimate goal for some chefs, those first days of opening Ultraviolet were my dream come true.
“Even a few weeks before opening, I still didn’t feel like things were entirely right. We didn’t realise at the time that we needed to add music, but once we did this and adjusted some final details, it was like everything just clicked. To this day, those first dinners and that first service remain some of the best moments of my entire career.
“I feel proud to have created a three Michelin star with a concept that is not run-of-the-mill fine- dining. It’s one thing actually getting the three Michelin stars, but it’s another achievement entirely to get that with a unique concept like Ultraviolet. Not only did my dream come true, but it was also formally recognised by the industry, which is a tremendous achievement for both my team and me.
“We always hope that guests are left with an impression. That the food has both evoked and created memories. I don’t believe something can be beautiful unless it leaves a trace. We can’t control this, but we hope that an experience leaves a lasting mark in their minds.
“Since the opening, we haven’t tried to touch a thing because the recipe was just right. I love the experience of opening other restaurants and doing side projects, but I have no need to express myself in any other way because I have everything I need with Ultraviolet.
There is no reason to change what I am doing and why I am doing it because this is who I am, not what I do”.
76 PAUL PAIRET
LEFT Close up of Salmon a la Parisienne.
THE ESSENCE OF EVENTS
Located on the iconic Avenue Princesse Grace in Monaco, Thirty-Nine Monte-Carlo Private Members Club offers tailor-made private events services to its members and non-members. The events and catering are complementary and require a lot of creativity and talent to fit the guests and organisers’ needs.
Thirty-Nine’s team works together to design the best concept for the guests, as was the case for the Chateau Pommard event last fall, where Chef David Knapp created
OPPOSITE 2023 Spring/ Summer canapés.
BELOW Spring black truffle canapé.
a food and wine pairing acclaimed by the community of attendees. The collaboration between both also reveals another dimension of events: how to adapt the art de la table to a private event. In the range of services the Club offers, there are also some four-hands culinary experiences, with a menu elaborated in collaboration with other chefs, like Alejandro Diaz for the Días De La Muerte event 2 years ago.
Throughout the course of the year and during the events calendar, Chef David Knapp continually reinvents himself with masterpiece creations. With its sophisticated, minimalist tones, this season’s new catering menu is no exception. For this spring/summer season, Thirty-Nine Monte Carlo’s Chef is taking you on a tour of the Club’s birthplace, from its mountainous heights to its aquatic depths, in a Mediterranean-inspired menu.
Among a dozen new creations - from red octopus with sweet potato hashbrown and cuttlefish with cherry tomatoes confit to crispy duck with beetroot puree and coriander - we also find locally sourced Bonito tartare with freshly picked Kaffir Lime topped with pecan nuts from the Club’s private garden. The freshness of the tuna, married with the fresh citrus of the kaffir is perfectly balanced against the crunchiness of the pecan.
Also new is the Jerusalem artichoke veloute with lime gel: a slightly buttery and smooth soup cut by the lime gel’s acidity, leaving a freshness on your tastebuds.
Purple artichokes, mushrooms, and truffles are also the stars of this new culinary journey. A spring-inspired canapé that reminds you of the fresh, local products available on your doorstep in the south of France. All boasting different textures and flavours but seamlessly coming together in a perfect alliance between earthy richness, sweet crispiness, and an unmistakable injection of bold truffle flavour.
To end on a sweet note, Chef David’s version of the iconic acai bowl takes centre stage. With a vegan acai mousse full of antioxidants and fresh fruits, the acai bowl revisits one of the Club’s most beloved desserts since its opening. Crunchy chia seeds and toasted coconut leave a pleasant taste in the mouth. The mousse is made of banana, coconut milk, and acai powder, which, combined with woodland fruits, instantly transports you to the Mediterranean hinterland. And, to contrast textures, the Chef adds raw chia seeds, toasted coconut, and berries mixed with nuts offering a light, summer freshness in the mouth.
All hospitality industry professionals will agree that any noteworthy event can be remembered and experienced through the senses. The sensations you offer your guests are what they will remember most, with food naturally playing an integral part. FOUR looks at how the culinary offering from Thirty-Nine Monte-Carlo’s events team has the power to transport guests on a journey of sights, sounds, and unique flavours.
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PHOTOS: FABBIO GALATIOTO
ESSENTIALLY MEDITERRANEAN
As the pioneer of five-star accommodation on the mythical White Island, Ibiza Gran Hotel has a passion for luxury hospitality that transcends the mere material to offer something wholly privileged.
For Ibiza Gran Hotel, luxury is a byword for sophistication, exclusivity, culture, sheer relaxation, and, above all, supreme service with an exclusive, contemporary, and timeless Mediterranean touch. With exceptional views overlooking Ibiza’s most opulent marinas, the Mediterranean Sea, and the old town, Dalt Vila, Ibiza Gran Hotel attracts guests seeking both the authentic essence and the exclusivity associated with the famed “White Island.”
With bragging rights as the island’s first 5-star grand luxe hotel and housing the only casino on the island, Ibiza Gran Hotel has undoubtedly become a destination in its own right. Thanks to its core values centered around exceptional service, celebrating contemporary art and gastronomy, and channeling a relaxed luxury atmosphere, Ibiza Gran Hotel promises to deliver an unforgettable experience for all its discerning guests.
In fact, for over ten years, the independently-owned hotel has been expertly curating guest programs that help restore harmony, explore the rich surroundings of this Balearic treasure, and ignite the senses through its world-class entertainment options.
With an unrivaled space for epicurean discovery, the 187-room property was awarded Best Gastronomic Hotel of 2022 at the Conde Nast Traveler Awards, thanks to its diverse range of world-renowned and local restaurants and bars, including; Downtown Ibiza by Cipriani, The Grand Breakfast, Pool Restaurant, and iconic international establishments Zuma and Club Chinois.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Exclusivity, wellness, rest, and comfort in a unique and extraordinary complex in the heart of Ibiza.
These contemporary culinary concepts are joined by the hotel’s Michelin-starred flagship restaurant, La Gaia, by Óscar Molina. Presenting a sophisticated culinary proposal, La Gaia offers a menu that delves into the local and seasonal produce of the island and delivers them with a show-stopping modern Mediterranean twist.
With accolades including a Michelin star and 2 Soles Repsol, the restaurant maintains a spectacular guest experience that is superlative for the island and entirely in keeping with the hotel’s ‘authentically exclusive’ mantra. Dining is intimate and private, designed to provide a platform to share and connect over locally-inspired flavors
while also creating a beautiful interlude where guests can peacefully disconnect from the outside world.
Guests can enjoy impressive 13- to 18-course tasting menus, which highlight ingredients sourced from throughout the island, and presented in exquisite style and flair. With fresh oysters, ceviche, Mediterranean lobster, Balearic black pork, and Ibizan lamb, Molina’s menus are the perfect fusion between haute cuisine and an artist’s passion. The gastronomic journey delights the senses and sets a new benchmark for what Ibizan cuisine should be.
Naturally, Óscar Molina is considered one of the best chefs in Spain, having won the prestigious VI National Gastronomy Award (FACYRE) in 2004 and the Ibiza –Formentera Gastronomic Award for Best Chef of the Year 2018.
This season, Ibiza Gran Hotel has further elevated the island’s gastronomic reputation by hosting another stellar series of ‘four hands’ culinary collaborations.
Since 2017, the hotel has pioneered the creation of a unique gourmet experience in Ibiza, inviting renowned chefs such as Henrique Sá Pessoa, José Avillez, Mario Sandoval, and Roberto Ruiz to create tasting menus alongside chef Molina. Having kicked off in April with this year’s first guest chef, Andreu Ginesta, a Michelin star, Green star, and two Repsol Guide suns recipient, the two chefs created a unique and ad hoc menu that seamlessly united flavours from Ibiza and Mallorca. With the second ‘four hands’ night planned for June, guests can expect another equally exciting national chef to take the reins at La Gaia for an unforgettable culinary escapade.
While the island’s cuisine is reason alone to visit, the essence of Ibiza Gran Hotel means exceeding guests’ expectations and providing the most elegant snapshot of the Mediterranean. Celebrated as a sanctuary in the heart of the action, Ibiza Gran Hotel’s long-term dedication and commitment have transformed the venue into a reference point for anyone seeking the serene side of luxury on the fabled White Island.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Óscar Molina dazzles the senses at the hotel’s flagship restaurant, La Gaia.
the encounter between art and wine, celebrating beauty.
From
ww.sanmarzano.wine
Natural Selection
If you want to find a place where mixology is an art, and the bartender is the artist, look no further than Barcelona's Paradiso – the World's Best Bar for 2022. FOUR speaks to creative-in-chief and co-owner Giacomo Giannotti to discover how to create balance and drama with cocktails.
We wanted to create a comfortable place where the customer feels at home and an inclusive environment open to experimentation. We make cocktails thinking about innovation, creativity, and sustainability - one of our most important values. This is why we opened the Paradiso Lab and, recently, the Paradiso Waste Lab, a new space where recycling waste from the bar will be possible to raise awareness in the industry.
“At Paradiso, we always try to be at the cutting edge and never stop learning and creating new techniques. Creating each new drink list is a long creative process involving the entire team, with all ideas being tested until the final cocktail is shaped. Our current “The Evolution” drink menu aims to represent the progress of humanity as a collective.
This menu is one of the most complete and surprising we have ever created.
“To create a menu that can also be paired with food, it's essential to consider acidity, fat content etc. Typically, there are two ways to combine a dish with a drink: by affinity or by contrast.
By affinity, for example, we can take some of the dish's ingredients and propose a cocktail with similar or matching elements. An example of cocktail pairing by contrast is a combination we created with a three-starred restaurant, Hermanos Torres. We paired Paradiso's sweet notes of Evolution Negroni (a smoked twist of a Negroni with Campari, whiskey, vanilla, vermouth, and tonka beans) with a meat dish with strong flavours.
“For a good pairing, neither element, cocktail and dish, should overpower the other.” »
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PHOTOS: ANDRE SOUSA, OVERPROOFMEDIA
ON FIRE
“On Fire is a cocktail to share, presented with two glasses and placed on a glass tray with garnishes: edible flowers, yucca cooked in umami broth and squid ink, a bonbon filled with sweet potato mousse covered with cocoa butter, and a very crunchy, dehydrated sweet potato skin. This smoky, sweet and toasty take on a Milk Punch is inspired by the discovery and domination of fire by Homoerectus.”
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LEGACY
“Inspired by the invention of scripture is a twist on a daiquiri with Mediterranean notes. Ingredients include rum macerated with olive oil, Italicus Bergamot Rosolio, caper honey and lime. Presented inside a closed antique book waiting to be opened, and from which a scented smoke of an antique library is released. As a garnish, an edible rice leaf is placed on top, one side of which is decorated with ancient scriptures, while the other is covered with a thin sheet of baked caramel with dried fennel and capers. To finish, a steam bubble with ancient, floral flavours.”
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FLEMING
“Our Paloma style, tequila-based Fleming, was inspired by the discovery of penicillin by Alexander Fleming. With this as a starting point, we started researching fermentation and decided to use this method for all the ingredients; miso, beer syrup, kefir, and grapefruit water. The most exciting part of this cocktail is that the fermentation doesn't just stop with all the ingredients; we have even created a fermented glass decorated with a ring of agar-agar and grapefruit fermented with tempeh spores. After careful research into new possible techniques never used before, we came up with the idea of creating the first fermented glass.”
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MEDITERRANEAN TREASURE
“This classic cocktail from Paradiso has been on the menu since opening day. Inspired by my home city, Marina di Carrara and my Mediterranean roots, I am probably most attached to this cocktail, and it has definitely brought me the most luck. In fact, perhaps my whole journey started from Mediterranean Treasure. The cocktail is smoked with Mediterranean flavours, so you have all the aromas coming out of the treasure box. The drink's flavour is a mix of sea and land with the unique oyster leaf ingredient and is served in a seashell-shaped glass; all the elements are individual and stimulate each of the five senses.”
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PHOTOS: ANDRE SOUSA, OVERPROOFMEDIA
Travel
PARIS, FRANCE
IN CONVERSATION WITH KNUT WYLDE
The epitome of modern British luxury, The Berkeley is globally known for its sophisticated yet stylish hospitality offering in the heart of London. FOUR speaks to General Manager Knut Wylde about how the iconic hotel forges client relationships that last.
myself as a conductor of an orchestra. Although I can play two or three instruments well, my job is ultimately to make sure all musicians play in harmony and create a masterpiece.
WHAT DO YOU THINK GUESTS LOOK FOR IN THEIR STAY?
When you come to a hotel of our calibre, guests look for a seamless operation without hiccups. You come to a hotel to be looked after. Yes, travellers are looking for a beautiful hotel, but everyone can engage the best designers and design a beautiful property. That doesn’t make a great hotel. It ultimately all comes down to the service levels you deliver. That is the heartbeat. We want to anticipate needs before guests ask and ensure everything is seamless from arrival to when guests depart.
WHAT DO YOU STRIVE TO BRING TO THE TABLE AT THE BERKELEY?
A big part of my role is setting the strategic direction for the property, but I am also constantly trying to bring creativity, innovation, and a sense of humour to the table. Luxury does not need to be stuffy: I say we are the naughty younger sister of Claridge’s and The Connaught.
I bring an international background from city hotels to resorts on private islands, mountain properties, and desert destinations. While I have a great deal of experience, it is always essential to assemble the right team. I can only be as good as the people around me. I see
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Knut Wylde, General Manager of The Berkeley and The Emory; Afternoon tea with a fashionable twist for this season’s Prêt-à-Portea; Bedroom views from the Grand Pavilion Penthouse.
FOLLOWING PAGE The Berkeley entrance; Breakfast with a view.
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WHAT KEEPS GUESTS COMING BACK?
Guests come back because of the people. We are very fortunate as we have the right combination of longstanding team members – some with over 40 years of experience at The Berkeley – as well as new blood. We receive a lot of guest feedback, which is always about the people. Reviews always include specific names, which clearly highlights that it is the people who make a hotel.
At The Berkeley, we always take a creative approach and don’t take ourselves too seriously. Little touches are important: a small note here or an amenity that is quirky, different, and smart.
WHAT CAN GUESTS EXPECT FROM A STAY AT THE BERKELEY AND THE NEW HOTEL FROM THE GROUP, THE EMORY?
For The Berkeley, guests will experience a five-star luxury hotel, but one that is flexible and relaxed, not boring or formal. We provide an environment for our guests to feel comfortable and where they can let their hair down. One of my favourite spaces at The Berkeley is the counter at Cédric Grolet, where we do our omakase cake experience - the patisserie is so special.
Due to open this winter, The Emory will offer a very different proposition to The Berkeley. The Emory is where you go to hide - it is more discreet and private, with more of a residential feel. When it debuts, one of my favourite spaces will be the rooftop, a guest-only space. It will be a private environment on the 10th floor of the hotel in a glass box with 360-degree views over London.
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Souvenirs of Skiathos
Although small, this green and magnificent island in Greece’s Sporades archipelago is a hive of cosmopolitan attractions, natural wonders, and gastronomic gems that make it the perfect escape for epicureans and beach lovers alike.
Taking its name from the Greek for shadow, thanks to the abundance of tall trees and lush landscape, Skiathos has long inspired locals and visitors alike with its stunning bays, beaches, ravines, mesmerising mountains, and endless coastline views. Uniquely situated between the cultures and customs of both East and West, Skiathos is a playground to experience both the quirky and treasured traditions of Greece.
In fact, one of Greece’s most important novelists, Alexandros Papadiamantis, spent a long time on the island writing about the ways in which Skiathos represents Greece and its people as a whole; humble yet impassioned with a wealth of history and culture within a national identity that is still hard to define.
This dynamic mix is undeniably visible in every aspect of Skiathos life, from the Greek conviviality that fills the cosmopolitan hub of Skiathos town; merriment spilling out from its waterfront clubs, vibrant bars, and chic tavernas to the sleepy villages and fertile farmlands that stretch the length and breadth of this emerald island, shepherded by generations of traditional custodians.
In the stories of Alexandros Papadiamantis, food and drink play a huge part in the connection that the people of Skiathos have to the land, which visitors can still experience
today. Whether it’s agricultural activities, fishing, foraging wild greens or gathering together to prepare meze and family feasts, these simple rituals remain paramount to the lives of Skiathos locals.
To better showcase the delights and delicacies of the island, the Gastronomic Community of Skiathos has »
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CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE Skiathos port; Mandraki beach; Alfresco dining using fresh produce from around the island.
« made a conscious push to unite producers, suppliers, restaurants, and the hospitality sector to create a more structured link between tourism and the food culture of the region to better promote Skiathos as a food and wine destination.
With its myriad of high-quality wines, oil, fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, and meat combined with the unique character profile of local dishes - a blend of Greek and Anatolian flavours - Skiathos ticks all the boxes for any budding gastronome.
At the same time, the idyllic scenery of this dreamy Aegean island has converted Skiathos into one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations. Its magical hinterland boasts almost 200km of forest-lined paths dotted with charming Byzantine chapels and monuments, while its coastlines are flanked by 67 beautiful beaches kissed by calm crystalline seas - perfect for snorkelling, diving, and a wide range of water sports.
Likewise, the island becomes a haven for exclusive beach parties and DJ events every summer, earning itself a loyal following among the young, international jet-set crowd. Able to satisfy the most demanding visitors, Skiathos appeals to those who prefer alternative holidays, retreats, and simple pleasures, as well as those who fancy a hefty dose of Greek hospitality and vibrant nightlife.
94 TRAVEL
ABOVE
BELOW
IMAGES: MUNICIPALITY OF SKIATHOS
A land full of history yet with its finger on the pulse of contemporary culture, Skiathos is the perfect place to begin your Greek odyssey.
www.skiathos.gr
Koukounaries beach.
Krifi Ammod beach.
www.torredecanyamel.com Experience the ultimate in luxury and exclusivity. Welcome to your secluded paradise in Majorca.
TREASURE ISLAND
The Maldives is a constant when it comes to superior tropical destinations with its offer of romance, adventure, escapism, and relaxation, coupled with seamless service and amenities. With Cheval Blanc being a benchmark for luxury, FOUR highlights some of the exclusive gems that raise its Maldivian Maison from ordinary to extraordinary.
A HUSHED HAVEN
Located in the unspoiled setting of Noonu Atoll, the Cheval Blanc private island is an intimate, contemporary and harmonious refuge devoted to the exclusive villa accommodation. Beginning with Cheval Blanc Randheli’s Private Seaplane, guests are invited to start their holiday in true Cheval Blanc style. Offering cooling kits, delicious refreshments, and a comfortable seaplane lounge, guests can sit back and enjoy every moment of the short journey.
Accessible from a private berth and jetty, the hidden villa sprawls across a 1-ha of the dedicated island and includes
a four-bedroom main house, exceptional indoor and outdoor spaces, and a 25-metre infinity pool. Elegant, exclusive, and serene, the private island is ideal for a discreet getaway.
INTO THE CALM
Anyone who likes self-care will be pleased to learn that Cheval Blanc Randheli boasts an entire island dedicated to well-being and relaxation. Just a short ferry onboard a local Dhoni spa island comprises 6 treatment villas designed to take guests on a sensorial journey tailored to their needs. Whether the mood calls for relief or invigoration, the skilled therapists are on-hand to guide you through a wide range of Guerlain treatments, including two created especially for Cheval Blanc Randheli - the Sun Ritual and the After Diving Experience.
LE CAROUSEL
Another delightful asset to the Maison is the 500 sqm of space dedicated to children. Le Carousel is a fantasy land designed to spark imaginations and challenge the senses. With both an indoor playroom and a shaded outdoor area complete with a trampoline, pirate ship, large net tree, slide, climbing wall, an interactive screen allowing children to create their own virtual fish, and the newly open water park with water slides and splash pad, Le Carousel is bursting with activities that will entertain your little ones for hours.
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ABOVE Cheval Blanc Randheli private island in all its tropical splendour. BELOW Invigorate the senses at Spa Island.
GLIDE, BOARD, RACE
With an entire fleet of traditional wooden dhonis, excursion boats and yachts, and state-of-the-art water toys, The Maison will satisfy the most dashing of daredevils and smoothest of sailors. Find unexplored vistas, picnic on a desert island, dine at sunset adrift on the tide and make memories that last forever.
Cheval Blanc Randheli also boasts the only surf simulator in the Maldives, allowing first-time learners advanced riders, kids and adults the chance to experience and test their surfing skills safely.
CULINARY ARTS
With 5 restaurants and 3 bars, the culinary arts reign supreme at Cheval Blanc Randheli. Epicureans can delight in the array of lively, surprising and deliciously varied restaurants ranging from top-end, fine dining to a Teppanyaki overlooking the ocean. For an even more tailored experience, guests can enjoy personalised catering to their villa or elsewhere – think private sandbank picnics, dinners under the stars etc., under the label “Carte Blanche”.
VILLA HORIZON
Perched on stilts overlooking the lagoon’s turquoise waters, the 240 sqm. Horizon Villa offers an idyllic refuge at the very end of the pontoon. The generous space is the ultimate indoor-outdoor experience, where the Maison’s most exclusive guests can enjoy unprecedented privacy and intimacy with the surrounding seascape from the overwater hammock.
COLLABORATION WITH DIOR
Dior and Cheval Blanc Randheli have unveiled an exclusive collaborative timepiece: the Grand Bal. Paying homage to the art of travel and beauty, the watch is decorated in a bewitching camaieu of Maldives atolls, revealing a dial set with 131 blue sapphires, and adorned with delicate feathers. With only five made, these precious timepieces can be discovered only at the Cheval Blanc Randheli concept store, retailing at USD 45,000.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Living area and the oversea terrace in Cheval Blanc Randheli’s Villa Horizon; Dyptique Restaurant; a world of fun at Carousel.
A PARISIAN DREAM
With over a century of experience, Hôtel Pont Royal offers a timeless Paris experience that is immersed in historical grandeur, layered with an artistic sensibility, and topped with contemporary gaiety.
Located in the heart of Paris’s stylish SaintGermain-des-Prés district, Hôtel Pont Royal has roots dating back to 1815 when it was once a residential home. It was in 1923 that it finally opened its doors to the public and, ever since then, has made its mark in the French capital as a stalwart of quintessential Parisian elegance and indulgence.
In fact, sometimes referred to as the ‘literary hotel’, Hôtel Pont Royal brags an impressive list of regulars over the years, among them Simone De Beauvoir, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Henry Miller, Radclyffe Hall, Truman Capote, and Ernest Hemingway, all of whom quaffed in the hotel’s cocktail bar, and helped shape it into the landmark destination it is today.
For some of the greatest creative minds of the 20th century, the Hôtel Pont Royal was the preferred refuge, leaving an indelible mark on the building’s legacy. Every floor boasts references, quotes, and sayings from famous writers who stayed at the hotel, offering a gateway into the Parisian way of life of both a bygone era and the present day while also giving the hotel a strong sense of place.
Carefully decorated by architect Alain Marcot, the 65 rooms and 10 suites combine French refinement with all the requirements of today’s discerning traveller. Mahogany wood, wrought iron, and travertine give the hotel a contemporary ‘Rive Gauche’ (Left Bank) charm, while the warm lighting is designed to perfectly frame the stunning »
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CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE Champagne with views of the Eiffel Tower from the balcony of the Duluxe Suite; clean, timeless decor in the Suite Junior Signature; living room with city views.
FOLLOWING PAGE Hôtel Pont Royal’s relaxed library area; French pastries and coffee on the terrace; The hotel’s Signature Bar channels the atmosphere of Paris in a bygone era.
« views of the Eiffel Tower and Sacré Cœur. The emphasis is on creating an ambient atmosphere akin to a private residence, with hints of intimacy and where guests can feel the magic of Paris the most.
Those wanting to explore the city’s edible creations will be happy to learn that the hotel has been a space for epicurean discovery since its inception. With the worldfamous Michelin star restaurant L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, directly accessed from the hotel, guests can experience their signature concept of an ’open kitchen’ meets classical French cooking. Enjoy watching meticulously crafted dishes being prepared before your eyes in an atmosphere of sophistication and conviviality, or, if you prefer, sample a few of their bar snacks and small plates as part of the hotel’s room service.
When not travelling back in time at the Signature Bar with its famous cocktails and live Jazz nights, discovering decadent morsels at Atelier de Joël Robuchon, or getting lost in the musings of literary greats, Hôtel Pont Royal is just a stone’s throw from the city’s most beloved attractions and landmarks, including the Louvre, Notre-Dame, Beaubourg, the Marais, Place Dauphine, and the Seine River. Likewise, the small side streets of the nearby Latin Quarter are awash with galleries, chic boutiques, and trendy hangouts begging to be explored and enjoyed.
From the suites to the service, cuisine, and cultural offerings, the property possesses all the charm and character of its locale and is a true tribute to Parisian savoir-faire past and present.
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LUXURY LAYOVER
HAVEN IN THE SKY
Perched on a secluded hilltop, high above the clouds, Villa Ponti Bellavista o ers unrivalled views of Lake Como and the breathtaking Swiss Alps.
Conceived in collaboration with Italian architect Gio Ponti – famed for designing transatlantic ship interiors – Villa Ponti Bellavista is a beautiful mid-century house with a striking design that resembles a ship setting sail.
Trademark nautical features such as a central spiral staircase, ship-like funnels emerging from the roof, a classic wood-panelled entrance hall, and the living room curved like an observation deck with an arc of windows overlooking the lake and mountains give Villa Ponti the sensation of sailing in the sky.
This unique property, enjoying the best views over Lake Como, sleeps up to 14 and is set within three acres of lush cedar forests and gardens. This makes it the ideal retreat for a luxury holiday with loved ones, a special event, or a spectacular wedding destination.
Featuring six bedrooms with direct access to 120 sq m of terraces, guests can also enjoy access to the Villa’s infinity pool, hot tub, sauna, bocce court, and vegetable garden in a private cedar woodland, all with jaw-dropping views of Lake Como and the surrounding mountains.
ABOVE With expansive views of Lake Como and the surrounding landscape from the living room, terraces, and indoor and outdoor areas, Villa Ponti Bellavista lives up to its panoramic name.
Offering a warm and personalised service, guests are invited to relax on the original Formanova furniture, stir up a Negroni in the bar or, on cool evenings, cosy up in the sunken Mad Men-style conversation pit beside the huge belly fireplace – an echo of a ship’s curved stern. Weekly stays include complimentary massages, aperitivo, preprepared dinner on arrival, and premium maid service. Additional services such as driver and chef services can also be arranged, and guests can arrive by helicopter with a helipad just a five-minute walk from the Villa.
The fairytale location is also right next to a selection of non-tourist restaurants, bars, cafés and shops, so you can indulge in the finest cheese, charcuterie, pastries and produce from the area.
Private and peaceful, and a stone’s throw away from all local amenities, Villa Ponti Bellavista is your homefrom-home haven in the hills above Bellagio, Lake Como.
For more stunning imagery and villa reservations go to villapontibellavista.com
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The frameless premium sliding door provides a limitless space experience full of light, air and atmosphere.
Swiss perfection since 1886 | swissfineline.com
LIVING THE BEST VIEW.
Property & Design
CHALET VILAIET © VISCIANI PHOTOGRAPHY
MIAMI VIRTUE
Arte Surfside, an ultra-luxury project designed by master Italian architect Antonio Citterio, is the newest and most exclusive boutique condominium to open in Miami’s Surfside neighbourhood. With an unprecedented lifestyle program, Arte Surfside brings all the five-star amenities and services usually seen at the world’s finest resorts to the buyers of its 16 exclusive oceanfront residences.
Just a stone’s throw away from the bustling energy of Miami and Miami Beach, Surfside is the discreet, quiet and pedestrian-friendly neighbourhood that boasts some of the area’s most exclusive hotels and residences.
Coined as the new American Riviera, Surfside recently welcomed Arte, the latest and most successful boutique condominium project in Miami, with nearly $225 million in total sales for only 16 residences. This building has also broken countless records, including the priciest cryptocurrency penthouse transaction, and has set a benchmark worldwide for luxury living, an achievement that developers Alex Sapir and Giovanni Fasciano always imagined while the project was under development.
“The lifestyle we envisioned at Arte is unique to South Florida,” said Alex Sapir, Chairman of Sapir Corp LTD, whose Israel- and New York-based subsidiary, SC 8955 LLC, developed the project. “Balancing the privacy and exclusivity of a single-family oceanfront home with the amenities and services of a world-class hotel gives
residents the best of both worlds. Arte is the solution for people who have previously had to sacrifice amenities for privacy, or vice versa, due to a building’s transience or size.”
Located at 8955 Collins Avenue, Arte’s superlative resort-inspired experience begins when residents and guests are greeted at the building’s front doors. The front façade of the building is striking and instantly recognisable thanks to a rare, original “ART” sculpture from the legendary American artist Robert Indiana. Known for popularising the pop art movement with his famous “LOVE” sculptures, Indiana’s work is currently on view in cities worldwide. The piece is just one of the several blue-chip artworks found at the property that gives merit to Arte’s name.
Designed by famed Italian master Architect Antonio Citterio, Arte is redefining the Miami living experience with its highly individual residencies designed to maintain privacy, as well as connecting residents with the area’s most knowledgeable and prestigious lifestyle and fitness experts. Breathtaking decor, soaring views of the Atlantic Ocean and Miami skylines, coupled with a dedicated »
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OPPOSITE The beautiful façade of Arte Surfside featuring Robert Indiana’s unique ‘ART’ sculpture.
ABOVE The main lobby inside Miami’s chicest private residences.
« team of butlers, have taken Arte’s boutique condominium service to a whole new level.
“It was important to us that the residents at Arte feel like they are on vacation, even if Miami is their primary residence,” said Giovanni Fasciano, a developer partner at Arte. “The butlers do a great job of this. They are on hand to assist with anything a buyer can think of, short of maybe babysitting their kids. In that case, our concierge can arrange for a trustworthy nanny to come within the hour.”
The building also comes with its own clubhouse, something rarely seen in a 16-residence project but further enhances Arte’s unique offering. It includes a private, climate-controlled garage with multiple resident parking spaces and a top level featuring a resident’s lounge with a catering kitchen for out-of-home entertaining.
The lounge also comes with a fully equipped children’s room designed by Kinder Modern, with plenty of options for playing, arts and crafts and reading. A dedicated study space has also been added to the children’s room as parents and kids alike embrace remote learning.
The impressive amenities don’t stop there. Heading up to the clubhouse rooftop, residents can enjoy a full-size tennis court, which bears the US Open’s green-and-blue
colourway. A hallmark of Arte’s new lifestyle program is its exclusive tennis partnership with celebrity coach James Bollettieri, who will train residents at the court. The Bollettieri family pioneered the modern tennis academy, now known as IMG Academy, and developed star players, including Andre Agassi, Anna Kournikova, Jim Courier and Monica Seles.
The Bollettieri Experience at Arte Surfside offers residents high-performance training sessions and private tennis instruction from James Bollettieri, a Surfside local himself, and his team of tennis pros. Bollettieri customises workouts appropriate for all skill levels and is available yearround to help players build confidence and gain experience.
Arte’s spa and wellness amenities include a 75’ indoor lap pool with travertine decking and onyx accents, a sauna, a steam room, and a meditation pond. Fitness and recreation spaces boast an outdoor swimming pool, a state-of-the-art fitness centre and yoga studio, and a dedicated pet runway and relief corridor.
Arte Surfside is a true wonder of design and lifestyle concepts. Combining architectural virtuosity with a purist sensibility, Arte is a touchstone for all serviced residences. Transforming the face of Miami, Surfside offers the best of the many worlds of Miami’s cultural, culinary, and shopping destinations.
artesurfside.com
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Arte’s indulgent wellness facilities including spa and indoor pool; the communal outdoor pool and chill out area with cabanas; the state-of-the-art rooftop tennis court.
manutti.com @manutti_official outdoor luxury
Sandua . collection designed by Robin Hapelt
GRAND DAME OF THE DOLOMITES
During my 13-year career as a professional alpine skier between 1993 and 2006, I often wondered why there were no renowned chalets in Val Gardena like the ones I knew from alpine locations such as St. Moritz, Courchevel, Vail, and Aspen. But then, I found the perfect place to build such a chalet.
At the end of the road, in the top corner of Ortisei, there was an old farm in a quiet location between meadows and forests with a stunning view. It was exactly what I had dreamed of since childhood”, remarks Isolde Kostner, owner, and creator of the stunning Chalet Vilaiet in Ortisei.
Although it then took a while for Vilaiet to come to fruition, the wait for this luxurious chalet on the slopes of the Dolomites was worth it. Created for exclusive use, the villa allows discriminating guests a premium alpine getaway that brings together pristine nature, paradisiacal hiking trails, and a true winter wonderland come ski season.
Whether for a romantic getaway for two, a cosy couple’s holiday, or with friends and family, the Chalet Vilaiet private holiday home has been designed to ensure an exceptional and luxurious retreat that takes care of everything.
Covering 386m² and spread over three floors, the villa can sleep up to 6 guests while providing enough additional space for people to comfortably relax, entertain, or exercise. In fact, Chalet Vilaiet boasts a wellness area to
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE
Chalet Vilaiet’s warm glow welcoming you home during the winter months; 360-degree Alpine panorama; Vilaiet’s stateof-the-art wellness area.
suit all your relaxation and fitness needs. Located in the basement, the 150m² of dedicated wellness area comes complete with a Technogym treadmill and multifunctional workout bench, massage room, steam room, Finnish sauna, waterfall and snow showers, as well as a relaxation area featuring loungers, a TV, and bar for your post-workout recovery needs.
Guaranteeing style, comfort, and a serene atmosphere at every turn, the villa’s decor seamlessly blends traditional
Created by world ski champion Isolde Kostner, the stunning private Chalet Vilaiet offers the perfect base for an unrivalled mountain ski experience in the Italian Alps.
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alpine elements with a modern aesthetic, giving it a timeless finish. Likewise, chic details and unique hand-picked pieces give the chalet a truly special character that feels like a luxurious home away from home.
In addition to its architectural finesse, the inspiring and unobstructed views of the rock formations that form the Dolomites from the villa’s panoramic windows are supremely captivating.
“Providing discerning guests with absolute privacy is particularly important to me. The view of the millionyear-old rock strata should entice us to relax and connect with nature. Chalet Vilaiet is a place where you can immerse yourself in another world and leave everyday life behind”, comments Isolde.
Furthermore, the name itself comes from the Latin for hamlet (Vila) and moment (aiet), hoping that it inspires a brief moment of calm and serves as a retreat from the everyday hustle and bustle.
Isolde continues, “My idea was to create a place where nature, idyll, and origin are brought to the fore again, and every moment of the holiday is lived and enjoyed.”
And this is what can truly be felt at Chalet Vilaiet: the authentic ambience of a luxury, homely chalet with all
the amenities you could wish for, while, above all, reflecting respect for history and the surrounding environment. With this in mind, the incredible access to the snow-covered peaks the villa offers during winter can’t be overlooked.
“Chalet Vilaiet is naturally very popular in winter, especially among ski fans, as it offers ski-in, ski-out access, and luxurious comforts. We are located at the edge of the red Ortisei Furnes piste, which allows guests to optimise their time skiing”, says Isolde.
As a region that boasts completely interconnected ski resorts within the adjacent valleys of Alta Badia, Val Gardena, and Cortina, guests have quick and easy access to one of the world’s largest lift and trail systems. Guests at Chalet Vilaiet have the best of both worlds: utmost privacy yet proximity to all the skiing and local village amenities.
Prices are based on the exclusive use of the chalet for up to 6 guests and include; full gourmet catering, butler and daily cleaning services, in-resort driver shuttle service, and complimentary experiences such as in-chalet wine tastings and guided skiing.
www.vilaiet.it
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IMAGES: VISCIANI PHOTOGRAPHY / WWW.VISCIANIPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Spacious yet cosy and finished to the highest specifications; Vilaiet’s waiting and butler service; gourmet catering from the in-house chef; scenic views from the luxurious bedrooms.
SHAPING SENSIBLE SPACES
Ever-inspired by the creative process, Danish-born,
New York-based
interior
and architectural
designer Thomas Juul-Hansen aims to design ageless spaces that flawlessly fuse form with function. FOUR sits down with the Harvard graduate to learn more about his passions, principles and latest projects…
TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOUR FIRM, THOMAS JUULHANSEN, LLC…
My firm specialises in high-end residential architectural design, occasionally segueing into the hospitality realm. Our primary mission is to create residential designs that are as pragmatic as they are beautiful. Prioritising pure, natural materials and craftsmanship allows us to achieve truly timeless design.
The goal with everything we do is to create something that doesn’t seem to age, whether just completed or after being lived in for a decade or more. We create warm spaces that are still modern — evoking emotion and character. Architecture is really all about feeling — you want to walk into a space that feels good from the moment you step into it.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND…
I received my BA in Architecture from the University of Miami and an MA in Architecture from Harvard. I began working for Richard Meier & Partners (now Meier Partners). For the next couple of years, I was fortunate enough to work with a team of people there who were diligent, focused, and smart. Through their tutelage, I learned how to master the tools to create designs and drawings and, importantly, how to make them as close to perfect as they could be. This precision and thoughtfulness in design are the critical skills that have remained important throughout my career.
I really disliked business school, and when I first started studying architecture, it was primarily a means to an end. However, the more I dedicated myself to the craft of architecture, the deeper my passion for it grew. I love to create; for me, making something and being a part of the creative process is extremely satisfying and rewarding.
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Thomas Juul-Hansen; dining area in a model residence at 96+Broadway © Evan Joseph; the beautiful lobby at 96+Broadway features a front desk carved out of a solid block of travertine © We are Visuals.
WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE PROJECTS YOU’VE WORKED ON?
Honestly, it’s difficult to say — I am proud of all my work and love them equally. The design and construction process from start to finish takes years, and it takes a lot of back and forth to source the perfect materials and to fight for thoughtful designs that ensure the building’s integrity and value. The projects become almost like a child you birth and want to protect and nurture so they can become the best they can be.
WHAT ABOUT YOUR LATEST PROJECT, 96+BROADWAY — COULD YOU SHED SOME LIGHT ON THIS?
96+Broadway is a building designed with a deep appreciation and respect for its surrounding community, as it was conceptualised with functionality at the forefront. The Upper West Side is very much a neighbourhood where young families settle and long-time New Yorkers reside, so we wanted 96+Broadway to fit right in with providing that familiar sense of home and practicality in every aspect of its design. Working with JVP as the developer for this project has been such a pleasure because they are not only invested in the economic success of their projects but also genuinely take pride in the quality of their end-product. That’s why the commitment to using the highest-quality natural materials is my favourite thing about this project. Everything was selected and built for 96+Broadway to last; we didn’t cut any corners. All kitchen cabinets are solid oak, bathrooms are clad from floor to ceiling with solid marble tile, and the pool features travertine surfaces as well as custom-designed Hemlock wood panelling. Even the lobby’s front desk is carved out of a solid block of travertine. This project has so many incredible stand-out features that were created with much thought and consideration for the people who will inhabit this space which certainly appeals to me as a designer.
ANY ACHIEVEMENTS IN YOUR CAREER THAT STAND OUT THUS FAR?
I have been fortunate to have had a few outstanding experiences and achievements throughout my career. Befriending Jean-Georges Vongerichten was definitely one of the highlights. He gave me one of my first jobs designing one of his restaurants in New York City, which was the start of our business partnership and, ultimately, a huge game-changer for me. Another achievement was
winning the bid for 505 W 19th, our first ground-up building. Getting such an incredible commission early in my career was life-changing. I would also say completing my tenth building in New York City is a huge milestone. Winning the bid for Sutton Tower, an 850-foot-tall tower in Manhattan’s historic Sutton Place, is the most recent high point.
WHAT’S NEXT FOR YOU AND THE COMPANY?
We’re excited to start diving into smaller residential projects that we can execute ourselves from start to finish. This will be the first time we will be able to set our own parameters with no limitations — with our own creative flow and an extraordinary amount of freedom. We currently have three standalone single homes being developed along the North Fork in Long Island, and we expect the first house to be completed in about a year and a half, with the others following six months after.
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TOP LEFT Bedroom of a model residence at 96+Broadway © Evan Joseph.
TOP RIGHT 96+Broadway is located in New York’s Upper West Side neighbourhood © We are Visuals.
LONDON | DUBLIN | COPENHAGEN | SYDNEY | NEW YORK | WORLDWIDE www.havwoods.com/four LUXURY WOOD FLOORING FOR ANY INTERIOR
THE NEED FOR BEAUTY
With almost 100 years of experience and expertise in producing luxury antique reproductions and historic designs, Mottahedeh is the recognised leader when it comes to porcelain and chinaware that adapts to the ages.
When Mildred Mottahedeh joined Mottahedeh & Company in the ‘20s, she and her husband had a clear idea in mind about the direction they wanted to take with the company. With his passion for antiquities and astute business acumen, and Mildred’s fine eye and design sensibility, they developed a business as wholesalers of luxury goods and antiques.
In both business and their personal lives, they recognized the importance of timeless treasures and unique design pieces to create a standout lifestyle concept that is eternally elegant.
During the post-war period, certain objets d’art were not readily available, and many factories in Europe were in need of work, so the couple used their savvy industry knowledge to gather an extensive personal collection of antiques. They focused mainly on valuable artefacts of the Ming era, as well as importing crates of Chinese export
porcelain via Rafi Mottahedeh’s family shipping company in Tehran. These exquisite pieces formed the basis of their porcelain: luxury chinaware based on historical models or direct replicas of Chinese exports for the West, as well as more traditional Chinese designs and Early European styles. With each piece weaving an intricate story for future generations, Mottahedeh cast itself as one of the world’s finest manufacturers of high-fire porcelain.
Rafi and Mildred Mottahedeh prided themselves on creating designs that pay homage to centuries-old craftsmanship and creativity. This was a vital element that they insisted be kept alive even after they passed the reins over to Grant and Wendy Kvalheim in 1992. For over thirty years, Wendy Kvalheim has continued to build on the company’s philosophy whilst also shaping new directions to ensure the growth and stable future of Mottahedeh.
“Our 99-year-old company focuses on complex and beautiful colours with unique historical shapes seen in »
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ABOVE Mottahedeh’s Chelsea Feather turqouise dinner plate and their Tobacco Leaf candy dish on top; Mottahedeh’s hand-painted striped Melon tureen.
« ceramics that originated from Portugal, China, Germany, Italy, France, and Hungary.
“We produce a wide array of tableware and home décor accessories, individually hand-crafted using centuries-old techniques and attention to detail. We have a time-proven reputation for producing the best of classic and enduring designs.”
With an emphasis on hard porcelain faience and stoneware, Mottahedeh has developed licensed reproductions for the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, the Historic Charleston Foundation, Mount Vernon, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Winterthur Museum and Gardens, Monticello, Tony Duquette, and more recently with National Geographic Society. The White House, the U.S. State Department, and the Diplomatic Corps have also commissioned the company to produce collections used in official state capacity.
Their collections, which include patterns like Tobacco Leaf and Blue Canton, have proven to be timeless and gracefully adapt to the ever-changing needs of tableware design.
Produced mainly in Portugal, Mottahedeh designs and manufactures dinnerware and decorative accessories under their flagship brand, as well as Milestone by Mottahedeh. Offering an incredible collection of fine china dinnerware patterns to suit all occasions and decor styles, each item is produced to the highest standard by hand. The intricate process and attention to detail are what make Mottahedeh’s designs so striking and enduring, far exceeding the quality of many of their contemporaries. Furthermore, their practical design and long-lasting finish are perfect for everyday use, and the hard porcelain is oven- and dishwasher-safe.
Coming up to its 100th anniversary in 2025, Mottahedeh has created an incredible legacy thanks to its resourceful founders and Wendy’s continued motivation and passion
for creating reproductions from original antiquities. Holding a degree in Fine Arts from the Pratt Institute of Fine Arts in New York and a Bachelor of Arts from Mount Holyoke College, Wendy can spot contemporary design directions and anticipate trends.
“At Pratt, I studied casting, glazing, and technical aspects of making reproductions from antique originals because I wanted to do museum work; I also wanted to be a figurative sculptor.” With an artist’s understanding of colour and a sculptor’s knowledge of casting, Kvalheim understood the depth and complexity of Mottahedeh’s many designs.
“But ultimately, we are not focused purely on what we think will sell, but on what speaks to us visually and/ or with a great story. Ultimately, it is about the creator of the art form in whatever century.”
Building on the beauty of the past while adapting to the needs of a modern household, Wendy Kvalheim assures future generations of the possibility of owning a piece of history in the making.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The verdigris and blue Callalily Vase by Rookwood Art Pottery for Mottahedeh; the Chelsea Rabbit Tureen; a selection of superb dishes including pieces from the R. Haviland and C. Parlon collection, exclusively distributed in the U.S. by Mottahedeh.
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