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ÑÝèõìíï Ìéá ðåñéÞãçóç óôï ÷þñï êáé ôïí ÷ñüíï

Rethymno A journey through space and time

ÊÑÇÔÉÊÏÉ ÁÐÏÇ×ÏÉ ÊáëÜâñõôá 1


Ðåñéå÷üìåíá - Contents ÅéóáãùãÞ .................................................................................................................................... 10 ÃåùãñáöéêÜ óôïé÷åßá ................................................................................................................. 12 Øçëïñåßôçò, ôï Èåúêü âïõíü .................................................................................................... 14 Ç ×ëùñßäá ................................................................................................................................... 17 Ç Ðáíßäá ..................................................................................................................................... 18 ÊñçôéêÞ ÄéáôñïöÞ ...................................................................................................................... 19 Ç ÅëéÜ ......................................................................................................................................... 21 ÊñçôéêÞ ìïõóéêÞ êáé ôñáãïýäéá ............................................................................................... 22 Áó÷ïëßåò ..................................................................................................................................... 23 ÑáêÞ ............................................................................................................................................ 24 Ï Óôáõñüò óôçí ÊñÞôç ............................................................................................................. 25 ÊñçôéêÞ öïñåóéÜ ........................................................................................................................ 26 Ìéá ðüëç, ìéá Éóôïñßá... ............................................................................................................. 30 Áò ÐåñðáôÞóïìå ........................................................................................................................ 46 ÐïëéôéóôéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò ÄÞìïõ Ñåèýìíçò ............................................................................. 62 ÖïñôÝôóá .................................................................................................................................... 65 Áñ÷áéïëïãéêü Ìïõóåßï Ñåèýìíïõ ........................................................................................... 67 Ìïõóåßï Óýã÷ñïíçò ÔÝ÷íçò ÊñÞôçò - ÐéíáêïèÞêç “Ë. ÊáíáêÜêç” ...................................... 69 Åêêëçóéáóôéêü Ìïõóåßï Ìçôñïðïëéôéêïý Íáïý Ñåèýìíïõ ................................................... 70 ÂéâëéïèÞêç Ñåèýìíçò ............................................................................................................... 71 Ôï Êñçôéêü Ìá÷áßñé ................................................................................................................... 81 Ïé ËõñÜñçäåò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ ................................................................................................ 87 ÑÝèõìíï - ÌïíÞ Áñêáäßïõ ........................................................................................................ 88 Éóôïñéêü êáé Ëáïãñáöéêü Ìïõóåßï .......................................................................................... 92 ÄéáäñïìÝò ............................................................................................................................ 94 - 95 ÑÝèõìíï - Ìðáëß ........................................................................................................................ 96 ÌïíÞ ÁôôÜëçò ............................................................................................................................ 98 ÑÝèõìíï - Áíþãåéá ..................................................................................................................... 99 Áíþãåéá ..................................................................................................................................... 100 Áîüò ........................................................................................................................................... 105 Ìåëéäüíé .................................................................................................................................... 109 Ðñïò ôç ÌïíÞ ÂùóóÜêïõ ....................................................................................................... 112 Ìáñãáñßôåò .............................................................................................................................. 113 Åëåýèåñíá ................................................................................................................................ 119 ÑÝèõìíï - Âñýóéíáò - ÊïéëÜäá Áìáñßïõ ................................................................................ 122 ÑÝèõìíï - ÅðéóêïðÞ - Áñãõñïýðïëç ..................................................................................... 126 ÑÝèõìíï - ÊÜíåâïò - öáñÜããé Êïôóõöïý - ÑïäÜêéíï ......................................................... 137 Ï Íüôïò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ ........................................................................................................... 145 ÐëáêéÜò ..................................................................................................................................... 153 ÑÝèõìíï - ÓðÞëé - Áãßá ÃáëÞíç ............................................................................................... 164 Îåíïäï÷åßá - Hotels ................................................................................................................. 173 ×ñçóéìá ÔçëÝöùíá - Useful numbers ................................................................................. 175 Åõ÷áñéóôþ ................................................................................................................................ 176 English section ....................................................................................................................... 177

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ÅðéëÝîáìå êáé óáò ðñïôåßíïõìå We have selected and propose to you ÅÎÙÖÕËËÏ - COVER ÁñêÜäé ÊñçôéêÜ ÁíáøõêôéêÜ / Arkadi Cretan Soft Drinks ....... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 24089 Trinity Jewellery Gallery ............................................................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 30143 Îåíïäï÷åßï Êáëõøþ / Kalypso Hotel ....................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31296 ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏ - RETHYMNO ÑåèõìíéáêÞ Æõèïðïéßá Á.Â.Å.Å / Rethymnian Brewery S.A. .. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 41243 .................. 34 Åóôéáôüñéï ÁëÜíá / Alana Restaurant ..................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 27737 .................. 35 Åóôéáôüñéï ÁõëÞ / Avli Restaurant ........................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 58250 .................. 36 Ìðõñáñßá Ôï óôÝêé ôïõ Äáâáñßá / Beer House To steki tou DavariaÔçë./Tel.: +30 28310 30380 .................. 37 Åóôéáôüñéï Åñùöýëç / Erofili Restaurant ................................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6976 766220 .................. 38 ÊôÞìá ÈõìÝëç ........................................................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 30888 .................. 39 Tratoria Pizzeria La Casa di Haris ............................................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 22900 .................. 40 Haris Creperie ............................................................................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 22900 .................. 40 ÊÜñìá ÊáöÝ / Karma Cafe ....................................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 57565 .................. 41 La Piazza Pizzeria ...................................................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 20520 .................. 42 Ëåìïíüêçðïò ÔáâÝñíá / Lemonokipos Tavern ....................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 57087 .................. 43 Ïñãáíïðïéåßï ÓôáãÜêç ............................................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 30831 ............ 44-45 Èáëáóóïãñáößá ÊÜóôñï / Thalassography Castle ................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 40885 .................. 50 Èáëáóóïãñáößá / Thalassography ......................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 40885 .................. 51 Mam mam ÏâåëéóôÞñéï - Êñåðåñß / Mam mam Grill - Crepes ... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 52822 .................. 52 Ìåëßíá ÊáöÝ - Åóôéáôüñéï / Melina Cafe - Restaurant ........... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 21580 .................. 53 ÌåóïóôñÜôé ÔáâÝñíá / Mesostrati Tavern .............................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 29375 .................. 54 ÌõñïãäéÝò Ìåæåäïðùëåßï - Åóôéáôüñéï / Myrogdies Snack - Restaurant .. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 26083 .................. 55 ÌïõñÜãéï Ìáñßá - ØáñïôáâÝñíá / Mouragio Maria - Fresh fish tavern ................................................................. 56 Ìðëå ÐáñÜèõñá ÔáâÝñíá / Mple Parathyra Tavern .............. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6974 798884 .................. 57 ÐáëéÜ Ðüëç ÔáâÝñíá - Ìåæåäïðùëåßï / Palia Poli Tavern ..... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 29218 .................. 58 Øçôïðùëåßï ÐÝôñéíï / Petrino Grill House ............................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 57830 .................. 59 Ç Ðëáôåßá Åóôéáôüñéï - ØáñïôáâÝñíá / Plateia Restaurant - Fresh fish ... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 53598 .................. 60 Åóôéáôüñéï - ÊáöÝ Ðñßìá Ðëþñá / Restaurant - Cafe Prima Plora .. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 56990 .................. 61 Óõìðüóéï ÔáâÝñíá - Åóôéáôüñéï / Symposium Tavern - Restaurant .... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 50538 ............ 72-73 ÔáâÝñíá Ôñýðéï ÊáôïóôÜñé / Tripio Catostari Tavern ............ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 51579 ............ 74-75 ÓõìðëçãÜäåò Ìïõóéêü Ìåæåäïðùëåßï / Sympligades Music Tavern . Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6942 061663 .................. 76 ÂáóóÜëïò ÔáâÝñíá / Vassalos Tavern .................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 24577 .................. 77 ×åëþíá ØáñïôáâÝñíá / Çelona Fresh fish restaurant ........... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 25795 .................. 78 Õäñßá Åñã. ÊåñáìéêÞò / Hydria Ceramics Workshop ............. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31125 .................. 79 Ïðùñïðáíôïðùëåßï ÔõñïêïìéêÜ / Greengrocer’s Shop Dairy ... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 22128 .................. 80 ÐËÁÔÁÍÅÓ - PLATANES Marem ÊáöÝ - Åóôéáôüñéï / Marem Cafe - Restaurant ........... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 57001 .................. 84 ÁÄÅËÉÁÍÏÓ ÊÁÌÐÏÓ – ADELIANOS KAMBOS Levantes Åóôéáôüñéï - ÊáöÝ / Levantes Cafe - Restaurant .... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 71154 .................. 85 Êáñô - ÑÝèõìíï / Kart - Rethymnon ......................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6937 738365 .................. 86

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Living Room Lounge Cafe ........................................................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 21386 .................. 93 ÌÐÁËÉ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ - BALI RETHYMNO Íçñçßäåò ÔáâÝñíá - ÊáöÝ - Åóôéáôüñéï - Åíïéê. ÄùìÜôéá / Niriides Tavern - Cafe - Restaurant - Rooms to let .................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6942 017193 .................. 97 ÁÎÏÓ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ - AXOS RETHYMNOU AXOS PLACE Ðïëõ÷þñïò - ÔáâÝñíá / AXOS PLACE Multi-Purpose area - Tavern .............................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28340 61337 ................ 106 ¸íáãñïí / Enagron ................................................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28340 61611 ................ 107 Oros Villas .................................................................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +31 6532 44966 .................. 108 ÐÅÑÁÌÁ ÌÕËÏÐÏÔÁÌÏÕ - PERAMA MYLOPOTAMOU ¸íùóç Áãñïôéêþí Óõíåôáéñéóìþí ÌõëïðïôÜìïõ / Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Milopotamos ............... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28340 20730 ........ 110-111 ÁÃÃÅËÉÁÍÁ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ - AGGELIANA RETHYMNOU ÊôÞìá ÄáëáìðÝëïò / Dalabelos Estate ................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28340 22155 ................ 115 ÌÁÑÃÁÑÉÔÅÓ - MARGARITES Êåñáìåßïí / Kerameion ............................................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28340 92135 ................ 116 Íßêïò & ÅëÝíç ÊáõãáëÜêç / Nikos & Eleni Kavgalaki ............ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28340 92000 ................ 117 Ï ÌÜíôáëïò Êáöåíåßï - ÔáâÝñíá / Mandalos Cafe - Tavern ................................................................. 118 ÅËÅÕÈÅÑÍÁ - ELEFTHERNA Ðáíüñáìá ÔáâÝñíá - ×þñïò åêäçëþóåùí / Panorama Tavern - Reception Room ....................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28340 92382 ................ 121 ÊÏÉËÁÄÁ ÁÌÁÑÉÏÕ - AMARI VALLEY ÁÍÅÁ Á.Å. / Amari Development Company ............................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28330 20002 ................ 124 Åëßá Ðáñáäïóéáêüò îåíþíáò / Elia Traditional Guesthouse . Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28330 22229 ................ 125 ÁÐÔÅÑÁ ×ÁÍÉÙÍ - APTERA CHANIA Stratos Villas .............................................................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6999 957830 ................ 128 ÐÅÔÑÅÓ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ - PETRES RETHYMNO Studios PETRES ........................................................................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 61147 ................ 129 ÅÐÉÓÊÏÐÇ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ - EPISKOPI RETHYMNOU ×ñõóüò Áóôåñßáò Beach bar - Åóôéáôüñéï / Chrysos Asterias Beach bar - Restaurant ................................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 61590 ................ 130 ÐÝôñéíç ÃùíéÜ ØçóôáñéÜ - ÊáöÝ - Åóôéáôüñéï / Petrini Gonia Grill - Cafe - Restaurant ...................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 61617 ................ 131 Êáíôßíá - Ðáñáëßá ÅðéóêïðÞò / Canteen - Episkopi Beach ................................................................... 132 ÁÑÃÕÑÏÕÐÏËÇ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ - ARGIROUPOLI RETHYMNOU Ðáñáäïóéáêüò Îõëüöïõñíïò / Traditional wooden oven .... Ôçë./Tel.: Áãßá Äýíáìéò ÔáâÝñíá / Agia Dynamis Tavern ....................... Ôçë./Tel.: ÔáâÝñíá ÊïõíäïõñÜêçò Íßêïò êáé Ìáñßá / Tavern Koundourakis Nikos and Maria .................................... Ôçë./Tel.: Êïýíäïõñïò ÐáñáäïóéáêÞ ÔáâÝñíá / Koundouros Traditional Tavern ................................................ Ôçë./Tel.:

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+30 28310 81038 ................ 133 +30 28310 81210 ................ 134 +30 28310 81283 ................ 135 +30 6978 729855 ................ 136


ÁÃÊÏÕÓÅËÉÁÍÁ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ - AGOUSELIANA RETHYMNOU ÉöéãÝíåéá ÔáâÝñíá - Åóôéáôüñéï / Ifigeneia Tavern - Restaurant .. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 51362 ................ 139 ÊÁËÇ ÓÕÊÉÁ - KALI SYKIA Ïéíïðïéßá ÆïõìðåñÜêç / Zouberakis Winery .......................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 51075 ........ 140-141 ÖÁÑÁÃÃÉ ÊÏÔÓÕÖÏÕ - KOTSIFOU CANYON Çëéïìáíüëçò ÔáâÝñíá - Åíïéêéáæüìåíá äùìÜôéá / Iliomanolis Tavern - Rooms to let ............................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 51053 ................ 142 ÊÁÔÙ ÑÏÄÁÊÉÍÏ - KATO RODAKINO Îåíïäï÷åßï Ðïëýñéæïò - Polyrizos Hotel ................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31334 ................ 143 Íßêïò & ¢ííá ÔáâÝñíá - Åíïéê. ÄùìÜôéá / Nikos & Anna Tavern - Rooms to let ........................................ Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 32173 ................ 144 ÁÑÌÅÍÏÉ - ARMENI ÁñôïíïóôéìéÝò ÐáðáäïãéÜííç - Artonostimies Papadogianni ... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28310 41640 ................ 146 ÌÉÎÏÑÏÕÌÁ - MIXOROUMA Eligia Villas ................................................................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 22594 ................ 147 ÐÑÅÂÅËÇ - PREVELI ÐñÝâåëç ÐáñáäïóéáêÞ ÔáâÝñíá / Preveli Traditional Tavern ... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6976 262472 ................ 152 ÐËÁÊÉÁÓ - PLAKIAS Áôëáíôßò ØáñïôáâÝñíá - Åóôéáôüñéï / Atlantis Fresh fish - Restaurant ................................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31531 ................ 155 Îåíïä. Costas & Chrysoula - Ãïñãüíá Åóôéáô. / Hotel Costas & Chrysoula - Gorgona Restaurant ................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 32242 ................ 156 Êñé-Êñé ÔáâÝñíá - Ðßôóá - ØçóôáñéÜ / Kri-Kri Tavern - Pizzeria - Grill ................................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 32223 ................ 157 Ëáìüí Îåíïäï÷åßï - Snack bar / Lamon Hotel - Snack bar ... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31279 ................ 158 Ðáñáëßá Øçôïðùëåßï - Club / Paralia Grill house - Club ........................................................................ 159 Öïßíéî Îåíïäï÷åßï / Phoenix Hotel .......................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31331 ................ 160 Îåí. Ðüñôï ÐëáêéÜò - Ìýñôéò îåíïäï÷åßï / Porto Plakias Hotel - Myrtis Hotel ............................................. Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31123 ................ 161 ÔáâÝñíá - Åóôéáôüñéï Óïößá / Sofia Tavern - Restaurant ...... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31333 ................ 162 Ìïýóåò ÐáñáäïóéáêÞ ôáâÝñíá - ØáñïôáâÝñíá / Muses Traditional Tavern - Fresh fish ...................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 31469 ................ 163 ÓÐÇËÉ - SPILI Rastoni Îåíïäï÷åßï - Beach bar / Rastoni Hotel - Beach bar .... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 22744 ................ 167 ÁñéÜäíç Óïýðåñ ÌÜñêåô / Ariadni Super Market ................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 22239 ................ 168 ÐÁÑÁËÉÁ ÁÃÉÏÕ ÐÁÕËÏÕ - AGIOS PAVLOS BEACH Agios Pavlos Hotel .................................................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 28320 71104 ................ 169 Scopas Beach bar ..................................................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6987 347338 ................ 170 ÔÑÉÏÐÅÔÑÁ - TRIOPETRA ÁðáíåìéÜ ÔáâÝñíá / Apanemia Tavern .................................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6972 122186 ................ 171 ÁðïèÞêç ÔáâÝñíá - Åóôéáôüñéï - ÊáöÝ ìðáñ / Apothiki Tavern - Restaurant - Coffee Bar ............................... Ôçë./Tel.: +30 6937 067338 ................ 172

ÑÝèõìíï 5


Áí Ý÷åé ç ÊñÞôç äõï øõ÷Ýò, ç ìéá øõ÷Þ ‘íáé ç ëýñá, êé’ åßíáé ãåìÜôç Ýñùôá ¹ëéï, öùôéÜ êé’ áëìýñá. Áí ì’ áãáðÜò êé’ åéí’ üíåéñï, ðïôÝ íá ìç îõðíÞóù. Ìå ôç ãëõêÜäá ô’ üíåéñïõ èÝëù íá îåøõ÷Þóù.

6 ÑÝèõìíï


ÑÝèõìíï 7


8 ÑÝèõìíï


ÑÝèõìíï 9


ÅéóáãùãÞ Ìéá, ó÷åäüí, ðáñáëëçëüãñáììç ëùñßäá óôåñéÜò, ðïõ åíþíåé ôï ×áíéÜ ìå ôï Ìåãáëüêáóôñï, ï íïìüò Ñåèýìíïõ. Ìå ôéò äõï ðëåõñÝò, ôç âïñåéíÞ êáé ôç íüôéá íá âñÝ÷ïíôáé áðü ôéò äõï èÜëáóóåò. Ôï ìðñïýóêï Êñçôéêü ìå ôéò áéþíéåò öïõóêïèáëáóóéÝò êáé ôï Ëéâõêü ôï æåóôü, ìå ôéò ìéêñÝò õðÝñï÷åò áììïõäéÝò êáé ôç ìïíáäéêÞ áêôïãñáììÞ. Ôï êÝíôñï ôïõ íïìïý, óêåðÜæïõí ôá âïõíÜ, ìå êåíôñéêü ôïí Øçëïñåßôç ìå ôéò êïñöÝò ôïõ êáé ôç äéá÷ñïíéêÞ ôïõ ïìïñöéÜ. ÌéêñÝò êïéëÜäåò, êáôáðñÜóéíåò, õðÝñï÷åò ðéíåëéÝò, ðëïõôßæïõí ôï ïñåéíü áíÜãëõöï. Êáé ðÜíù óôá âïõíÜ, óôéò ðëáãéÝò, êáé óôïõò ìéêñïýò êÜìðïõò, ñéæùìÝíá ôá ÷ùñéÜ, ìå ôéò ðáñáäïóéáêÝò ôïõò ìïñöÝò íá óõìðëçñþíïõí ôç ìßá ðáñáäåéóÝíéá åéêüíá. Êáé óôéò Üêñåò ôïõ íïìïý, óôï âïññÜ êáé óôï íüôï, ôá âïõíÜ ÷áìçëþíïõí, ìáëáêþíïõí êáé ðñïóêõíïýí ôï êýìá. Óå ôïýôï ôï ÷þñï áéþíåò, æåé êáé äçìéïõñãåß ï ‘Áíèñùðïò. ×ôßæåé ìå ôéò öüñìåò ôùí ðñïãüíùí ôïõ, óêýâåé óôç öýóç åõëáâéêÜ, ìÝíåé ñéæùìÝíïò óôéò ðáñáäüóåéò ôïõ êáé áãùíßæåôáé íá óõíå÷ßóåé ôçí ðïñåßá óôï ÷ñüíï. ×ùñéÜ ìéêñÜ

10 ÑÝèõìíï

êáé ìåãÜëá, ìïíÝò ðáìðÜëáéåò, åêêëçóéÝò ìå áíåêôßìçôåò ôïé÷ïãñáößåò, óå êáëùóïñßæïõí óå êÜèå âÞìá. ÁìðÝëéá êáé åëéÝò êáé ïðùñéêÜ, óôïëßæïõí ðëáãéÝò êáé êÜìðïõò. ÐïôÜìéá êáé öáñÜããéá ìéêñÜ, óá ÷ñõóÝò öëÝâåò, äéáêüðôïõí ôçí áãñéÜäá ôïõ ôïðßïõ. Óå ôïýôï ôïí éóôü æïõí ïé Üíèñùðïé. Óå ôïýôç ôç ãç ìðëÝêïíôáé ïé ìýèïé ìå ôçí éóôïñßá, ïé èñýëïé ìå ôá ãåãïíüôá. Ôïýôï ôïí ôüðï, èÝëçóáí ðïëëïß êáôáêôçôÝò. ÐÜôçóáí ôç Ãç, Ýóêáøáí ôéò ðüëåéò, óöñÜãéóáí ôï ÷ñüíï êáé Üöçóáí ðßóù ôïõò óçìÜäéá áíåîßôçëá. Ðüëåéò ôñáíÝò, áñ÷áéïëïãéêïß ÷þñïé, óå êáñôåñïýí óå êÜèå âÞìá. ÁðïìåéíÜñéá óçìáíôéêïý ðïëéôéóìïý, óðáñÜãìáôá ìéá ìáôùìÝíçò éóôïñéêÞò äéáäñïìÞò, åðéäåéêíýïíôáé öéëÜñåóêá óôïí ôáîéäåõôÞ. Óå ôïýôï ôï ÷þñï æåéò ôçí éóôïñßá. Ôï ÁñêÜäé ìå ôç


æùíôáíÞ ôïõ èõóßá. Ç Åëåýèåñíá ìå ôéò óõãêëïíéóôéêÝò ôçò áíáêáëýøåéò, ôá íåêñïôáöåßá, ôï ÓðÞëáéï ôïõ Äßá óôïõ Øçëïñåßôç ôçí êïñöÞ. Ç ðáëéÜ ðüëç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, ôï óõãêëïíéóôéêü õðáßèñéï ìïõóåßï ðïõ îåôõëßãåôáé ìðñïóôÜ óïõ óå êÜèå âÞìá, óõìðëçñþíåé ôçí åéêüíá åíüò ìïíáäéêïý ÷þñïõ. Ï åðéóêÝðôçò äå èá äåé ôïí ÔÜëù, íá äéáó÷ßæåé ôéò íüôéåò ðáñáëßåò ôïõ íçóéïý. Èá äåé üìùò ôéò õðÝñï÷åò ãáëÜæéåò áêôÝò, ðïõ Üöçóå êáôÜ ôçí ðáñÜäïóç ôï ðåñðÜôçìÜ ôïõ. Äå èá äåé ôéò óðïíäÝò óôï Éäáßï ¢íôñï. Èá áêïýóåé üìùò ôá êïõäïýíéá ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç êáé ôïí Þ÷ï ôçò âñïíôüëõñáò. Äå èá äåé íåñÜéäåò óôéò éóêéùìÝíåò ñåìáôéÝò, èá äïêéìÜóåé üìùò ôá ãëõêü êñáóß, ôç ñáêÞ, ôá èåúêÜ ðñïúüíôá ôïõ ìü÷èïõ ôïõ íôüðéïõ ðáñáãùãïý. Óôï äéÜâá ôïõ, èá óêýøåé óôï ôáðåéíü öõôü ôïí Ýñùíôá ìå ôç èåúêÞ ôïõ ìõñùäéÜ, óôï âáóéëéêü óôç ãëÜóôñá, óôï íõ÷ôïëïýëïõäï íá ÷ñùìáôßæåé ôéò áõëÝò ìå Üñùìá. Èá ãåõèåß ôï æåóôü óðéôßóéï øùìß, èá âñÝîåé ôá ÷Ýñéá ôïõ óôïõ Êïõñôáëéþôç ôï ðáãùìÝíï íåñü. Èá êáôçöïñßóåé óôïí ÐëáêéÜ, èá äåé ôéò ãïñãüíåò íá æùíôáíåýïõí óôá ãáëÜæéá êýìáôá. Èá áöÞóåé ôéò áéóèÞóåéò íá æùíôáíÝøïõí, íá áðïëáýóïõí íá ãåõèïýí. Èá áêïýóåé ôç ìáíôéíÜäá êáé ôï ñéæßôéêï. Èá ïíåéñåõôåß óôç öïñôÝôóá ìå ôéò ÷ßëéåò áðï÷ñþóåéò ôïõ äåéëéíïý.

ÑÝèõìíï 11


ÃåùãñáöéêÜ óôïé÷åßá Ï ÷þñïò ðïõ êáôáëÜìâáíåé ï íïìüò Ñåèýìíïõ, åßíáé ðåñéï÷Þ ãåìÜôç áíôéèÝóåéò. Ôá åíôõðùóéáêÜ öáñÜããéá, ôá ðïëõÜñéèìá óðÞëáéá êáé ïé êáôÜöõôåò êïéëÜäåò åíáëëÜóóïíôáé ìå ìéêñÝò åýöïñåò ðåäéíÝò åêôÜóåéò êáé áðÝñáíôåò áììïõäåñÝò áêôÝò. Ôüóï óôï âïññÜ üóï êáé óôï íüôï, áðïêáëýðôåôáé Ýíá ôïðßï îå÷ùñéóôÞò ïìïñöéÜò, ðüëïò Ýëîçò ãéá ôïõò åñáóôÝò ôçò öýóçò. Óôï áíÜãëõöï ôïõ íïìïý, åîáéñåôéêÜ Ýíôïíï, äåóðüæåé ï Øçëïñåßôçò, ï ïðïßïò ðáñïõóéÜæåé Ýíôïíç âéïðïéêéëüôçôá. Óôá íïôéïäõôéêÜ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç êáé ó÷åäüí ðáñÜëëçëá ðñïò áõôüí, åêôåßíåôáé ôï ìéêñüôåñï üñïò ÊÝäñïò. Óôá ÍïôéïäõôéêÜ ôïõ ÊÝäñïõ, ðáñÜëëçëá ðñïò ôç íüôéá áêôÞ, ïñèþíïíôáé äéÜöïñá ÷áìçëüôåñá âïõíÜ. Óôï äõôéêü ôìÞìá ôïõ íïìïý åéóÝñ÷ïíôáé ïé áíáôïëéêÝò ðñïåêôÜóåéò ôùí Ëåõêþí ÏñÝùí, ôá ïðïßá åêôåßíïíôáé êõñßùò óôï íïìü ×áíßùí. Óôá íüôéá ôçò ðüëçò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ äåóðüæåé ï Âñýóéíáò, ðïõ ðñïóöÝñåôáé ãéá ðåæïðïñßá êáé öõóéïëáôñéêÝò äéáäñïìÝò. ÔÝëïò óôá âïñåéïáíáôïëéêÜ åêôåßíïíôáé ôá Ôáëáßá ¼ñç, ðåñéóóüôåñï ãíùóôÜ ùò Êïõëïýêùíáò. ¢ãñéá öáñÜããéá êáé ìõóôçñéþäç óðÞëáéá, óõìðëçñþíïõí ôç öõóéêÞ ïìïñöéÜ ôïõ ôïðßïõ. Ïé ðåñéïñéóìÝíåò ðåäé-

12 ×áíéÜ ÑÝèõìíï

íÝò åêôÜóåéò ôïõ íïìïý, ó÷çìáôßæïíôáé êõñßùò óôéò ðáñÜêôéåò ðåñéï÷Ýò, êáèþò êáé áíÜìåóá óôïõò ïñåéíïýò üãêïõò üðùò êáé ç êïéëÜäá ôïõ Áìáñßïõ, ìåôáîý Øçëïñåßôç êáé ÊÝäñïõ êáé ç êïéëÜäá ôïõ Ãåñïðüôáìïõ, ìåôáîý Øçëïñåßôç êáé Êïõëïýêùíá. Ôï õäñïãñáöéêü äßêôõï ôïõ íïìïý, äåí ðåñéëáìâÜíåé ìåãÜëá ðïôÜìéá áëëÜ áðïôåëåßôáé áðü ìéêñÜ ðïëõÜñéèìá ìéêñÜ õäÜôéíá ñåýìáôá (÷åßìáññïõò, ñõÜêéá), ôá ïðïßá áñäåýïõí ôéò êáëëéåñãïýìåíåò åêôÜóåéò. Óôï Êñçôéêü ðÝëáãïò åêâÜëëïõí ï ðïôáìüò ÐåôñÝò, äõôéêÜ ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, ôï Óöáêïñýáêï êáé ï Ãåñïðüôáìïò óôá áíáôïëéêÜ ôïõ. Ï Ãåñïðüôáìïò ó÷çìáôßæåôáé óôéò âüñåéåò ðëáãéÝò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, ñÝåé ìå âïñåéïäõôéêÞ êáôåýèõíóç êáé åêâÜëëåé êïíôÜ óôï ÁêñùôÞñéï Ëéáíüò ÊÜâïò, äçìéïõñãþíôáò Ýíá óçìáíôéêü ðáñÜêôéï õãñüôïðï. Óôï Ëéâõêü ðÝëáãïò, åêâÜëëåé ï Áêïõìéáíüò äõôéêüôåñá êáé ï Êïõñôáëéþôçò Þ ÌÝãáò Ðïôáìüò, ðïõ äéáó÷ßæåé ôï ãíùóôü Êïõñôáëéþôéêï öáñÜããé. Ç áêôïãñáììÞ ôïõ íïìïý óôï Êñçôéêü êáé óôï Ëéâõêü ðÝëáãïò, äåí ðáñïõóéÜæåé áîéüëïãåò êïëðþóåéò áëëÜ äéáèÝôåé áìÝôñçôåò ðáñáëßåò ìå êñõóôÜëëéíá íåñÜ. Ôï êëßìá, Þðéï óôéò ðáñÜêôéåò ðåñéï÷Ýò, ãßíåôáé äñéìý óôéò ïñåéíÝò êáé êõñßùò óôïí Øçëïñåßôç. Ï


íïìüò Ñåèýìíïõ äéáèÝôåé ðïëõÜñéèìåò ðáñáëßåò, ôüóï óôá âüñåéá üóï êáé óôá íüôéá. Ç áêôïãñáììÞ ôïõ íïìïý óôï âïññÜ, îåêéíÜ óôá äõôéêÜ áðü ôïí üñìï ôïõ Áëìõñïý êáé óõíå÷ßæåé ÷ùñßò óçìáíôéêÝò êïëðþóåéò, óôï ëéìÜíé ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Óå ôïýôï ôï ôìÞìá óõíáíôïýìå ôéò ðáñáëßåò ôçò ÅðéóêïðÞò êáé ôïõ ÐåôñÝ, ìå ôçí øéëÞ Üììï. ÌåôÜ ôï ëéìÜíé, îåêéíÜ ç ìåãÜëç áììïõäåñÞ ðáñáëßá ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, ìÞêïõò ðåñßðïõ 13 ÷ëì. ðïõ öôÜíåé áíáôïëéêÜ ìÝ÷ñé ôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ôçò ÓêáëÝôáò. ÃíùóôÞ åßíáé ç ðáñáëßá ôïõ Ãåñïðüôáìïõ, ðïõ âñßóêåôáé áíáôïëéêüôåñá óôçí Å.Ï. Ñåèýìíçò Çñáêëåßïõ. Ç áêôïãñáììÞ óõíå÷ßæåé ó÷çìáôßæïíôáò ôá áêñùôÞñéá Ëéáíüò ÊÜâïò êáé ×ïíäñüò ÊÜâïò êáé áíÜìåóÜ ôïõò, ôçí ðáñáëßá ôïõ Ðáíüñìïõ êáé ôçí ðáíÝìïñöç ðáñáëßá ôïõ Ìðáëß. Ï ÔÜëùò Þôáí Ýíá ôåñÜóôéï ìåôáëëéêü ñïìðüô, äþñï ôïõ ¹öáéóôïõ óôï âáóéëéÜ Ìßíùá, íá ôïõ ðñïóÝ÷åé ôï íçóß áðü ðåéñáôÝò êáé êáêüâïõëïõò åðéäñïìåßò. Êáé êåßíïò, ôá êáôÜöåñíå ìå ôï ðáñáðÜíù. Ôñåéò öïñÝò Ýöåñíå ôçí ÊñÞôç âüëôá. Ôçí ôñßôç öïñÜ, êáèþò áêñïðáôïýóå äßðëá óôéò áêôÝò ôïõ Ëéâõêïý, ëïîïäñïìïýóå ðñïò ôç óôåñéÜ. Ôá âáñéÜ ðÝëìáôá ôïõ, éóïðÝäùíáí âïõíÜ, êï-

íéïñôïðïéïýóáí âñÜ÷ïõò, áöÞíïíôáò ãéãÜíôéá ß÷íç. Êé ýóôåñá ç èÜëáóóá, Ýãëõöå ìå ôï ðáëéíäñïìéêü ôçò ÷Üäé ðñïóðáèþíôáò íá åðïõëþóåé ôéò ðëçãÝò, ðïõ Üöçíå ðßóù ôïõ ï ÷Üëêéíïò ãßãáíôáò. ¸ôóé ãåííçèÞêáíå ïé ðáñáëßåò ôïõ Ëéâõêïý óýìöùíá ìå ôï ìýèï. Ãéá ôïýôï, üëåò ïíïìÜæïíôáé áììïýäéá. ÐïëëÜ èá áêïýóåé ï åðéóêÝðôçò ãéá ôéò ðáñáëßåò ôïõ Ëéâõêïý. Ãéá ôïí ¢ãéï Ðáýëï ìå ôéò áììïèßíåò ôïõ, ôçí Ôñéüðåôñá ìå ôçí áóýëëçðôç ïìïñöéÜ, ôçí ÐñÝâåëç ìå ôï ðïôÜìé êáé ôéò öïéíéêéÝò ôçò. Åßíáé üëá êáôþôåñá ôçò ðñáãìáôéêüôçôáò. Ãéá íá äåé êáíåßò ôç ìáãåßá ôïõ ôüðïõ ôïýôïõ, ðñÝðåé íá âñåèåß åêåß. Ìå ôï ðñþôï öùò Þ ôçí ôåëåõôáßá çëéá÷ôßäá ôçò ìÝñáò. Ôï ãåìÜôï öåããÜñé ôïõ Áõãïýóôïõ Þ ôçí ðÜ÷íç ôïõ Öèéíïðþñïõ. Ôüôå èá äåé ôç äéáöïñÜ, áíÜìåóá óôçí Üëëç èÜëáóóá êáé óôï ðÝëáãïò ôïýôï ôï åîùôéêü, ðïõ âñÝ÷åé ôçí ÊñÞôç êáé ôçí ÁöñéêÞ ìáæß. Ôüôå èá áíáêáëýøåé ðùò ðÝñá áðü ôïõ ÔÜëù ôá óôñáâïðáôÞìáôá, ôï íüôéï êïììÜôé ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ êñýâåé Üëëá ìõóôéêÜ. Ôï ìõóôéêü ôçò åðáíÜóôáóçò êáé ôçò áíôßóôáóçò, ôçò ôÝ÷íçò êáé ôïõ ðïëéôéóìïý ôçò ÷éëéü÷ñïíçò éóôïñßáò êáé ôçò öéëïîåíßáò. ÌõóôéêÜ äéá÷ñïíéêÜ. ×ñþìáôá ìïíáäéêÜ. Óôïõò áéþíåò áðáñáâßáóôá.

ÑÝèõìíï ×áíéÜ 13


Øçëïñåßôçò, ôï Èåúêü âïõíü

Ï Øçëïñåßôçò åßíáé Ýíáò ÷þñïò ìõèéêüò. Åßíáé Ýíáò óðÜíéïò âéüôïðïò. Åßíáé Ýíáò éäéáßôåñá åíäéáöÝñùí ãåùëïãéêüò ó÷çìáôéóìüò. Åßíáé Ýíá óýíïëï åîáéñåôéêþí «áéóèçôéêþí ôïðßùí». Åßíáé Ýíáò éóôïñéêüò êáé ðïëéôéóôéêüò ÷þñïò ìå ðïëý ìåãÜëç áîßá êáé âÜñïò. Åßíáé Ýíá óýìâïëï, óýìâïëï ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ôçò ëåâåíôéÜò, ôçò åëåõèåñßáò. Åßíáé ôáõôü÷ñïíá Ýíáò ÷þñïò ïéêéóôéêüò êáé ðáñáãùãéêüò óôïí ïðïßï êáôïéêïýí êáé åñãÜæïíôáé ÷éëéÜäåò Üíèñùðïé êáé Ýíáò ÷þñïò ðïëéôéóìïý êáé áíáøõ÷Þò, ï ïðïßïò ðñïóåëêýåé êÜèå ÷ñüíï ÷éëéÜäåò åðéóêÝðôåò.

Ïé ëüãïé ðïõ êáôÝóôçóáí ôçí ïñïóåéñÜ ôüóï óçìáíôéêÞ óôçí óõíåßäçóç ôïõ ëáïý ôçò ÊñÞôçò áðü ôá ÌéíùéêÜ áêüìá ÷ñüíéá, åßíáé ôï êÜëëïò ôïõ öõóéêïý ôçò ðëïýôïõ, ç ïìïñöéÜ êáé áãñéÜäá ôùí êïñõöþí êáé ç äåóðüæïõóá êáé åðéâëçôéêÞ ôçò üøç áðü üëá ó÷åäüí ôá óçìåßá ôçò ÊñÞôçò.

Ç ïñïóåéñÜ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç âñßóêåôáé óôçí êåíôñéêÞ ÊñÞôç êáé ðåñéëáìâÜíåé ôçí õøçëüôåñç êïñõöÞ ôïõ íçóéïý, ôïí Ôßìéï Óôáõñü, ìå õøüìåôñï 2.456 ì. Êáëýðôåé ôï ìåãáëýôåñï ôìÞìá ôïõ íïìïý Ñåèýìíçò êáé ôï äõôéêü ôìÞìá ôïõ íïìïý Çñáêëåßïõ. Ï Øçëïñåßôçò Þ áëëéþò ôï üñïò ºäç (ôï üíïìá áõôü, åôõìïëïãåßôáé áðü ôï äùñéêü ßäá - äÝíôñá ãéá îýëåõóç - äÜóïò, äñõìüò, äáóùìÝíï

Äåí ðñÝðåé íá èåùñçèåß ôõ÷áßï ôï ãåãïíüò, üôé ï Øçëïñåßôçò áðïôÝëåóå êáôÜ ôïõò Ìéíùéêïýò ÷ñüíïõò ôïí óðïõäáéüôåñï ëáôñåõôéêü ÷þñï ôïõ íçóéïý. ¹ôáí ßóùò ôï ìïíáäéêü óçìåßï óôï ïðïßï ìå âåâáéüôçôá ëáôñåõüôáí ï âáóéëéÜò ôùí èåþí ôùí áñ÷áßùí ÅëëÞíùí, ï Äßáò, ï ïðïßïò êáôÜ ôçí ðáñÜäïóç öõãáäåýôçêå áðü ôçí ìçôÝñá ôïõ êáé êñýöôçêå óôç óðçëéÜ ôçò ºäçò (Íßäáò)

14 ÑÝèõìíï

âïõíü) åßíáé áðü ôéò ðéï åíôõðùóéáêÝò êáé üìïñöåò ïñïóåéñÝò ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ìå ðëÞèïò ãåùìïñöïëïãéêþí, ïéêïëïãéêþí êáé ëáïãñáöéêþí ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêþí. Áðïôåëåß äå ôï óýìâïëï ôïõ íçóéïý êáé ðçãÞ äéáñêïýò Ýìðíåõóçò.


ìÝ÷ñé íá áíäñùèåß êáé íá ãëéôþóåé Ýôóé áðü ôçí ïñãÞ ôïõ ðáôÝñá ôïõ, Êñüíïõ. ÌïíïðÜôéá, ðïëëÜ áðü ôá ïðïßá äéáóþæïíôáé êáé óÞìåñá, îåêéíïýóáí áðü ôá äéÜöïñá ÌéíùéêÜ áíÜêôïñá êáé ìå åíäéÜìåóïõò óôáèìïýò óå ïñïðÝäéá êáé ëáãêáäéÝò ôïõ âïõíïý, Ýöôáíáí óôï Éäáßïí ¢íôñï, ãéá íá ðñïóöÝñïõí ôéò èõóßåò ôïõò êáé íá ëáôñÝøïõí ôïí Äßá. Óôá êáôïðéíÜ ÷ñüíéá, ç ðáñÜäïóç áõôÞ óõíå÷ßóôçêå óôçí óõíåßäçóç ôùí êáôïßêùí, ïé ïðïßïé ëÜôñåøáí êáé ýìíçóáí óôá ôñáãïýäéá êáé ôéò ðáñáäüóåéò ôïõò ôçí ïìïñöéÜ ôïõ âïõíïý, ôá ôüôå ôåñÜóôéá äÜóç ôïõ, ìå ôá áãñßìéá êáé ôéò ðçãÝò ôïõ. ÊáôÜ ôçí ðåñßïäï ôçò Êáôï÷Þò, ôá áðüêñçìíá âñÜ÷éá ôïõ êáé ïé ñåìáôéÝò, Ýäùóáí êáôáöýãéï êáé ðñïóÝöåñáí áóöÜëåéá óôïõò áíôÜñôåò. ÓÞìåñá ï Øçëïñåßôçò, åîáêïëïõèåß íá óõíáñðÜæåé ôïí åðéóêÝðôç ìå ôçí ïìïñöéÜ ôïõ êáé íá óõíå÷ßæåé áðü ôïõò Ìéíùéêïýò ÷ñüíïõò, ìÝóá áðü ôïõò ßäéïõò ðáñáäïóéáêïýò äñüìïõò, ôçí ôÝ÷íç ôùí ôõñïêüìùí êáé âïóêþí ìå ôá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÜ ìçôÜôá. Óôá ðáíÝìïñöá ÷ùñéÜ ðïõ ôïí ðåñéêõêëþíïõí, áíèßæåé ìéá ðëïýóéá ëáïãñáöéêÞ ðáñÜäïóç êáé êïõëôïýñá, ðïõ ìåôáöÝñåé áõôïýóéá êáé áíáëëïßùôç ôçí ôÝ÷íç, ôçí óïößá êáé ôïí ðïëéôéóìü ôùí ðñïãåíÝóôåñùí êáôïßêùí

«O Øçëïñåßôçò, ôï êñçôéêüôáôï ôùí êñçôéêþí âïõíþí, ðåñéÝêëåéóå óôá óðëÜ÷íá ôïõ, óå ìéá óðçëéÜ, Ýíá óðïõäáßï ôìÞìá ôçò êñçôéêÞò éóôïñßáò êáé ðïëéôéóìïý. Ï ìýèïò ôçò ãÝííçóçò ôïõ Äßá áðü ôç ÑÝá, ìå ôéò ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÝò ôïõ ëåðôïìÝñåéåò ãéá ôçí êáôÜðïóç ôçò óðáñãáíùìÝíçò ðÝôñáò áðü ôïí Êñüíï, ôçí êñïýóç ôùí áóðßäùí áðü ôïõò ÊïõñÞôåò, êáèþò êáé ôçí ôñïöü áßãá ÁìÜëèåéá, Ýèñåøå ãåíåÝò ðáíåëëÞíùí ðñïóêõíçôþí.» ÃéÜííçò ÓáêåëëáñÜêçò, Áñ÷áéïëüãïò. ¼ìùò äåí Ý÷áóå ôïí éåñü ôïõ ÷áñáêôÞñá, ïýôå óôá íåüôåñá ÷ñüíéá. ÌïíáóôÞñéá, îùêëÞóéá êáé ôïé÷ïãñáöçìÝíïé íáïß ôïí æþíïõí áð’ üëåò ôéò ðëåõñÝò. Ç éóôïñßá, ç ìõèïëïãßá, ïé ðáñáäüóåéò êáé ïé èñýëïé, áðïôåëïýí ðçãÞ Üíôëçóçò ðåñçöÜíéáò, èÜññïõò êáé

ÌçôÜôï óôïí Øçëïñåßôç “Mitato” on Psiloritis

ÑÝèõìíï 15


ôüëìçò ãéá ôïõò êáôïßêïõò êáé óõãêñïôïýí Ýíá éó÷õñü äåóìü ìå ôïí ôüðï ôïõò. ×ùñßò õðåñâïëÞ, ï Øçëïñåßôçò áðïôåëåß óôç óõíåßäçóç ôùí êáôïßêùí ôï êÝíôñï ôïõ êüóìïõ! Ìå ôï ðÝñáóìá ôùí áéþíùí ïé êÜôïéêïé áíÝðôõîáí Ýíá éäéüôõðï ëéôü ëáúêü ðïëéôéóìü, ðïõ Üöçóå áíåîßôçëá ôá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÜ ôïõ. ¸íá ëáúêü ðïëéôéóìü ðïõ åêöñÜæåôáé ðïëýìïñöá óôï ÷ïñü, óôï ôñáãïýäé, óôç ìáíôéíÜäá, óôï ñéæßôéêï, óôçí êáèçìåñéíÞ æùÞ, óôç ãÝííçóç, óôç âÜöôéóç, óôï ãÜìï, óôï èÜíáôï, óôç ëáúêÞ áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ êáé ôÝ÷íç, óôï ÷éïýìïñ, óôïí áõôïóáñêáóìü êáé óôç ìõèïðëáóßá. Äåßãìáôá áõôïý ôïõ éäéüôõðïõ ðïëéôéóìïý, ìðïñåß íá óõíáíôÞóåé ï åðéóêÝðôçò óå üëá ôá ÷ùñéÜ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, üðïõ ç öéëïîåíßá êáé ç æåóôáóéÜ ôùí êáôïßêùí èá ãåìßóåé ôçí øõ÷Þ ìå ôç äýíáìç êáé ôï Üñùìá Üëëùí åðï÷þí. ËáúêÝò åêäçëþóåéò êáé ðáíçãýñéá äéïñãáíþíïíôáé óôá ðåñéóóüôåñá ÷ùñéÜ ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò, äéáôçñþíôáò æùíôáíÞ ôçí ðáñÜäïóç. Êïñõöáßá åêäÞëùóç áðïôåëïýí ôá ðáíçãýñéá ôçò Ðáíáãßáò ôï Äåêáðåíôáýãïõóôï. Éäéáßôåñá ôõ÷åñïß ðñÝðåé íá áéóèÜíïíôáé ïé åðéóêÝðôåò ôùí ïñåéíþí êôçíïôñï-

16 ÑÝèõìíï

öéêþí ÷ùñéþí ôçí ðåñßïäï ôçò Üíïéîçò, êáèþò ïé êôçíïôñïöéêïß ðëçèõóìïß ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç âñÞêáí ôñüðï íá ìåôáôñÝøïõí óå ðáíçãýñé ìéá áðü ôéò ðéï êïõñáóôéêÝò åñãáóßåò ôïõò, ôï êïýñåìá ôùí ðñïâÜôùí. Áðü ôá ôÝëç ÌáÀïõ êáé ãéá ðåñéóóüôåñï áðü Ýíá ìÞíá, óôÞíåôáé óôá ìçôÜôá Ýíá áôÝëåéùôï ãëÝíôé. Åßíáé ç åðï÷Þ ðïõ ðñÝðåé íá êïõñåõôïýí ôá ðñüâáôá, ãéá íá áíôÝîïõí ôïí êáõôü Þëéï ôïõ êáëïêáéñéïý. Åðßóçò ï åðéóêÝðôçò ôïõ ïñåéíïý Øçëïñåßôç, èá óõíáíôÞóåé ôéò ðáñáäïóéáêÝò êáôïéêßåò ôùí âïóêþí, ôá èïëùôÞò ìïñöÞò êôßóìáôá ïíïìáæüìåíá «ìçôÜôá». Ç êáôáóêåõáóôéêÞ ôïõò ìÝèïäïò, åßíáé ßäéá ìå áõôÞ ôùí èïëùôþí ìéíùéêþí ôÜöùí êáé ÷ñçóéìïðïéïýíôáé ìåãÜëåò ðÝôñåò, ðïõ ðñïÝñ÷ïíôáé áðü ôïí ßäéï ÷þñï. Ç ðïëéôéóôéêÞ ðáñÝìâáóç ôçò íåüôåñçò éóôïñßáò, åìöáíßæåôáé ìå ôá ãíùóôÜ îùêëÞóéá ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, êôéóìÝíá óå åðéëåãìÝíåò èÝóåéò ðïõ áíáäåéêíýïõí ôç èñçóêåõôéêÞ ðßóôç ôùí êáôïßêùí. Åêåß èá ìáæåõôïýí áìÝôñçôïé ðñïóêõíçôÝò ìéá öïñÜ ôï ÷ñüíï, èá ôéìÞóïõí ôïí ¢ãéï ðñïóôÜôç, èá êïõâåíôéÜóïõí êáé èá äéáóêåäÜóïõí. www.psiloritis-natural-park.gr


Ç ×ëùñßäá Ï Øçëïñåßôçò, ôï éåñü âïõíü ôùí Êñçôþí, êáëýðôåé ôï ìåãáëýôåñï ìÝñïò ôïõ íïìïý. Ôï âïõíü ôïýôï ìå ôçí áãñéÜäá ôçò æùÞò êáé ôçò öýóçò, ìå ôéò øçëÝò êïñöÝò, ôá üìïñöá ïñïðÝäéá, ñåìáôéÝò êáé ðçãÝò ðïõ ðñïóöÝñïõí áðëü÷åñá íåñü, äÜóç ãåìÜôá æùÞ, ðåôñþìáôá ðïõ áíáäýèçêáí áðü ôá âÜèç ôçò ãçò, öáñÜããéá, ðüñôåò ôïõ ìåãÜëïõ âïõíïý, óðçëéÜñéá êáôáöýãéá áãñéìéþí, ðëïýóéåò êïéëÜäåò êáé êáëëéåñãçìÝíåò åêôÜóåéò óôá ïñåéíÜ, åßíáé áëçèéíüò ðáñÜäåéóïò. Ôï áíÜãëõöï ôïõ âïõíïý, åõíüçóå ôçí áíÜðôõîç ôçò âëÜóôçóçò, Ýôóé þóôå áíÜ ðåñéï÷Ýò íá ðáñáôçñïýíôáé äéáöïñåôéêÝò ìïñöÝò ÷ëùñßäáò. Ï ìåãáëýôåñïò ðëïýôïò, õðÜñ÷åé óôá öáñÜããéá. Ôï öáñÜããé ôïõ Ðáôóïý ðáñïõóéÜæåé ìåãÜëï âïôáíéêü åíäéáöÝñïí êáèþò ðåñéëáìâÜíåé ôåñÜóôéá ðëáôÜíéá, ìéêñïóêïðéêÝò óïëÝíïøéò, áæßëáêåò êáé åíäçìéêÜ âåñìðÜóêï. Ôá ïñïðÝäéá, åßíáé åðßóçò ðåñéï÷Ýò ìå éäéáßôåñç âëÜóôçóç êáé åßäç ìïíáäéêÜ. Ç åíäçìéêÞ êüêêéíç ôïõëß-

ðá óôï ïñïðÝäéï Éïýò ÊÜìðïé óôï ÁìÜñé, åîáðëþíåôáé åíôõðùóéáêÜ êáèþò êáé ï êñüêïò êáé ç íåõñßäá, Ýíá Ýñðùí åíäçìéêü öõôü óôï ïñïðÝäéï ôçò Íßäáò. Óôï ïñïðÝäéï ãýñù áðü ôï Óêïßíáêá, öõôñþíåé ôï óðáíéüôåñï öõôü ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ç ×ïñóôñéóÝá, ðïõ êéíäõíåýåé ìå åîáöÜíéóç ëüãù ôçò âüóêçóçò. Óôéò íüôéåò ðáñõöÝò ôïõ âïõíïý, óõíáíôÜìå äÜóç ìå êõðáñßóóéá êáé ôñá÷åßá Ðåýêç, åíþ ïé öõëëïâüëåò âåëáíéäéÝò åßíáé ðáñïýóåò êïíôÜ óôï ÷ùñéü Ìáñãáñßôåò êáé óôá âñïõëßäéá ôùí Áíùãåßùí.Ôçí Üíïéîç êáé ôï êáëïêáßñé ïé ÷áìçëÝò ðëáãéÝò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, ãåìßæïõí áðü ÷ñþìáôá êáé áñþìáôá. ÁóðÜëáèïé, á÷éíïðüäéá, èñýìðåò, èõìÜñéá, öáóêïìçëéÝò. Åðßóçò óõíáíôÜìå êõêëÜìéíá, ôïõëßðåò, äñáêïíôéÝò êáé ðïéêéëßá áðü ïñ÷éäÝåò. Ïé èÜìíïé óõíéóôïýí ôç xáìçëÞ âëÜóôçóç êáé åßíáé áåéèáëåßò. ÷áñïõðéÝò, áãñéåëéÝò, óêßíïé, èáìíïêõðÜñéóóá, äÜöíåò, êïõìáñéÝò áíôéóôÝêïíôáé óôï îçñü Êñçôéêü êáëïêáßñé.

ÑÝèõìíï 17


Ç Ðáíßäá Ï Ãåùëïãéêüò ðëïýôïò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò, ç Ýíôïíç ìïñöïëïãßá êáé ç ðïéêéëßá ôùí ðåôñùìÜôùí, åßíáé õðåýèõíá ãéá ôçí ðáñïõóßá ìéáò áðßóôåõôçò ðïéêéëßáò æþùí ðïõ åðéâéþíïõí óôéò óõíèÞêåò êÜèå ðåñéï÷Þò. ÅêáôïíôÜäåò ðïõëéÜ âñßóêïõí åäþ ôüðïõò ãéá öþëéáóìá, ãéá êõíÞãé, ãéá ìåôáíÜóôåõóç Þ ìÝñç íá æåõãáñþóïõí. Åäþ åðéâéþíåé Ýíáò áðü ôïõò ôåëåõôáßïõò ðëçèõóìïýò ôïõ êñçôéêïý áãñéüãáôïõ, ôïõ æþïõ-öÜíôáóìá êáôÜ ôïõò åñåõíçôÝò. Óôá óðëÜ÷íá ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç æïõí ÷éëéÜäåò ìéêñïóêïðéêÜ æùýöéá, óêáèÜñéá, óáëéãêÜñéá êáé éóüðïäá. Óôïí Øçëïñåßôç æåé ï ãõðáåôüò, Ýíá áðü ôá èåáìáôéêüôåñá êáé ìåãáëýôåñá áñðá÷ôéêÜ ðïõëéÜ ôçò Åõñþðçò. Ï êñçôéêüò ðëçèõóìüò ôïõ ðïõëéïý, åßíáé ï ôåëåõôáßïò âéþóéìïò óå üëá ôá ÂáëêÜíéá, êáèþò ç ÷ñÞóç äçëçôçñßùí êáé ç áíÜðôõîç ïäÞãçóáí ôï ðïõëß óå áöáíéóìü óå üëç ôçí ÅëëÜäá êáé ôï ôåëåõôáßï êáôáöýãéï ôïõ åßíáé ç ÊñÞôç. Ïé ãýðåò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, áöÞíïõí Üöùíï ôïí ðåñéðáôçôÞ ôùí âïõíþí ìå ôï ìåãáëüðñåðï «ïìáäéêü» ôïõò ðÝôáãìá, äçìéïõñãþíôáò ìåãÜëåò áðïéêßåò êáé öùëéÜæïíôáò óå áðüêñçìíåò âñá÷ïóêåðÝò, ðÜíôá êüíôñá óôïõò áÝñçäåò ðïõ ÷ñçóéìï-

18 ÑÝèõìíï

ðïéïýí ãéá í’ áíÝâïõí øçëÜ ãéá í’ áíáæçôÞóïõí êïõöÜñéá óôç ãç. Ïé ðåñéóóüôåñåò öùëéÝò óôçí ºäç âñßóêïíôáé óôï ÁìÜñé êáé ôçí ÐÜíù Ñßæá êáé ôéò âüñåéåò ðëáãéÝò ôïõ ÌõëïðïôÜìïõ, üðïõ øÜ÷íïõí ôñïöÞ. ÐëÞèïò áñðáêôéêþí óõìðëçñþíåé ôï ïñèïëïãéêü ïäïéðïñéêü ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç. ×ñõóáåôïß, ðåôñßôåò, óðéæáåôïß, ãåñáêßíåò.

“...ðáßñíåéò êïñìß ìå ôïí êáéñü êáé äýíáìç êé áãÝñá êé áðëþíåéò ðÞ÷åò ôá öôåñÜ êáé ðéèáìÝò ôá íý÷éá êáé ìÝóá óôá óýãíåöá ðåôÜò, ìÝóá óôÜ âïõíÜ áíåìßæåéò, öùëéÜæåéò ìÝóá óôá êñÜêïõñá, óõ÷íïìéëÜò ìå ô’Üóôñá, ìå ôçí âñïíôç åñùôåýåóáé, êé áðéäñïìÜò êáé ðáßæåéò ìå ô’ Üãñéá áóôñïðÝëåêá êáé âáóéëéÜ óå êñÜæïõí ôïõ êÜìðïõ ôá ðåôïýìåíá êáé ôïõ âïõíïý ïé ðåôñßôåò”. Ê. ÊñõóôÜëëçò


ÊñçôéêÞ ÄéáôñïöÞ Ç éóôïñßá ôçò ÊñçôéêÞò äéáôñïöÞò îåêéíÜ áðü ðïëý ðáëéÜ. Áðü ôá åõñÞìáôá ôùí áñ÷áéïëïãéêþí áíáóêáöþí öáßíåôáé ðùò ïé áñ÷áßïé ÊñÞôåò, ïé Ìéíùßôåò, êáôáíÜëùíáí ôá ßäéá ðñïúüíôá ðïõ êáôáíáëþíåé êáé ï óçìåñéíüò êñçôéêüò. Óôá áíÜêôïñá ôçò ìéíùéêÞò åðï÷Þò âñÝèçêáí ìåãÜëá ðéèÜñéá, ìå ðñïúüíôá äéÜöïñá. Ôï ëÜäé ôçò åëéÜò, ïé åëéÝò, ôï óéôÜñé, ïé êáñðïß, ôá üóðñéá êáé ôï ìÝëé, áðïôåëïýóáí ôç âÜóç ôçò êáèçìåñéíÞò äéáôñïöÞò. Ãéá ôïõò êñçôéêïýò åßíáé áðëü ôï ìõóôéêü ôçò ìáêñïæùßáò êáé ôçò êáëÞò õãåßáò. Êáôáíáëþíïõí ôá ðñïúüíôá ðïõ ðáñÜãåé ç ãç ôïõò. ÐïëëÜ öñïýôá, ëá÷áíéêÜ, üóðñéá, ôõñéÜ êáé ÷üñôá, ôá ðåñßöçìá áñùìáôéêÜ öõôÜ ôùí êñçôéêþí âïõíþí, ôï åëáéüëáäï, ôï ìÝëé, ôá êñçôéêÜ ôõñéÜ, ðñïúüíôá èñåðôéêÞò áîßáò ðïëý õøçëÞò, óõíèÝôïõí ôç âÜóç ôçò êñçôéêÞò êïõæßíáò. Ôï êñÝáò åß÷å ôç äéêÞ ôïõ áîßá êáé èÝóç, óôï êñçôéêü ôñáðÝæé. Óôçí áñ÷áéüôçôá, êñÝáò Ýôñùãáí áðü ôéò èõóßåò óôïõò âùìïýò. Óôá íåüôåñá ÷ñüíéá, ôï êñÝáò, êïóìïýóå ôï ôñáðÝæé êÜèå ÊõñéáêÞ. Ï ôñüðïò äéáôñïöÞò ôçò ÊñçôéêÞò ïéêïãÝíåéáò, öõëÜ÷ôçêå ãéá áéþíåò áìüëõíôïò. Êáé óÞìåñá, üôáí Ýãéíå ãíùóôÞ óå ïëüêëçñï ôïí êüóìï ç áîßá ôçò, ðáñáäßäåôáé óå ïëüêëçñç ôçí áíèñùðüôçôá, óáí Ýíá ðïëýôéìï ìõóôéêü æùÞò. Ïé êñçôéêïß ðáñáãùãïß, ïé åôáéñåßåò ðáñáãùãÞò ðñïúüíôùí êñçôéêÞò äéáôñïöÞò, ðáñáäßäïõí óôï åëëçíéêü ôñáðÝæé ôá ðñïúüíôá ôïõ ôüðïõ ôïõò, áãíÜ, ðïëýôéìá,

ÑÝèõìíï ×áíéÜ 19


æõìùìÝíá ìå ôïí áÝñá êáé ôï Ýäáöïò ôïõ íçóéïý ôïõò. Ôï Êñçôéêü åëáéüëáäï, ôï äþñï ôçò öýóçò óôïí Üíèñùðï, ôá ðåñßöçìá áñùìáôéêÜ öõôÜ, ðïõ óõíáíôþíôáé ìüíï óôçí ÊñÞôç, üðùò ç ðåñßöçìç ìáëïôýñá êáé ï äßêôáìïò, ðïõ õðÜñ÷ïõí áõôïöõÞ óôá âïõíÜ ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ðñïóöÝñïõí åõåñãåôéêÝò õðçñåóßåò óôïí Üíèñùðï. ÅéäéêÜ ãéá ôï äßêôáìï, ï ÉððïêñÜôçò ôï áíÝöåñå, ùò “ùêõôüêåéï”, áöïý âïçèïýóå ôéò ãõíáßêåò íá ãåííïýí åõêïëüôåñá. Åßíáé åðßóçò ãíùóôü üôé ôá êñçôéêü áãñßìé, ï áßãáãñïò, ôñþåé ôï äßêôáìï, ãéá íá åðïõëùèïýí ïé ðëçãÝò ôïõ. Ôï êñçôéêü ðáîéìÜäé, ôï Êñçôéêü êñáóß, óõìðëçñþíïõí ôá ðñïúüíôá ðïõ åíôõðùóéÜæïõí ìå ôç ãåýóç êáé ôçí ðïéüôçôÜ ôïõò. Ç êáôáíÜëùóç ôïõ ôõñéïý óôçí ÊñÞôç, åßíáé õøçëüôåñç ðáãêïóìßùò. Ç ðåñßöçìç êñçôéêÞ ãñáâéÝñá, ç êåöáëïãñáâéÝñá, ç ãëõêéÜ êáé îéíÞ ìõæÞèñá, êáé ôá Üëëá ôõñïêïìéêÜ ðñïúüíôá, Ý÷ïõí äéåèíþò áíáãíùñéóôåß ùò ôá êáëýôåñá. Ïé ñßæåò ôçò áéãïðñïâáôïôñïößáò óôçí ÊñÞôç, ÷Üíïíôáé óôá âÜèç ôùí áéþíùí. Ôá ãáëáêôïêïìéêÜ ðñïúüíôá ôçò ÊñÞôçò Ýèñåøáí ôï Äßá, ðïõ ãåííÞèçêå óôç ãíùóôÞ óðçëéÜ, óõíôñïöéÜ ìå ôçí ÁìÜëèåéá, ôçí êáôóßêá ðïõ ôïí ôÜéæå ìå ôï ãÜëá ôçò. ÓÞìåñá ôá æþá, æïõí ôåëåßùò åëåýèåñá óôá âïõíÜ êáé áðïëáìâÜíïõí ôçí ðåñßöçìç êñçôéêÞ ÷ëùñßäá. Ôï êñçôéêü ðáîéìÜäé ðåñéãñÜöåôáé áðü ôïõò îÝíïõò ðåñéçãçôÝò óôçí ÊñÞôç ôïõ 19ïõ áéþíá, ùò ãåõóôéêüôáôï.Ï ¢ããëïò ÐÜóëåû, åíôõðùóéÜóôçêå áðü ôï íüóôéìï ìáýñï øùìß ôùí êáëïãÝñùí ôïõ íçóéïý, ðïõ ãéíüôáí ìå óéôÜñé, êñéèÜñé êáé óßêáëç. ÓÞìåñá, ôï Êñçôéêü ðáîéìÜäé áðïôåëåß ìáæß ìå ôï åëáéüëáäï, ôç âÜóç ôçò êñçôéêÞò äéáôñïöÞò. Ìéá ôñïöÞ ðëÞñùò éóïññïðçìÝíç, ìå óçìáíôéêÞ

20 ÑÝèõìíï

ðåñéåêôéêüôçôá óå âéôáìßíåò ôïõ óõìðëÝãìáôïò  êáé ðïëëÝò ßíåò, ðñïëáìâÜíåé ôïí êáñêßíï ôïõ åíôÝñïõ. Ôï ìÝëé Þôáí åõñÝùò ãíùóôü óôç ÌéíùéêÞ ÊñÞôç. ¸íá áðü ôá ïìïñöüôåñá åêèÝìáôá ôïõ ìïõóåßïõ óôï ÇñÜêëåéï, åßíáé ôï õðÝñï÷ï ÷ñõóü êüóìçìá ìå ôéò äýï ìÝëéóóåò, ðïõ öáíåñþíåé ôçí áðüëõôç ó÷Ýóç ôïõ êñçôéêïý ìå ôç ìÝëéóóá. Ç ÷ëùñßäá ôïõ íçóéïý, ôá ìïíáäéêÜ áñùìáôéêÜ öõôÜ, ðñïóöÝñïõí ôçí éäåþäç âÜóç óôéò ìÝëéóóåò, ãéá ôç äçìéïõñãßá ôïõ õðÝñï÷ïõ ðñïúüíôïò ôïõò. Ôï êñçôéêü ìÝëé, áãíü, ðñïóöÝñåôáé óôï ôñáðÝæé ôçò ïéêïãÝíåéáò êáé óõìðëçñþíåé éäáíéêÜ ôïí ðëïýôï ôïõ. Ç êñçôéêÞ êïõæßíá åßíáé ìïíáäéêÞ. ÄéáôçñÞèçêå áôüöéá óôï ðÝñáóìá ôùí áéþíùí. ÖåñìÝíç áðü ôï ðáñåëèüí, äéáôçñåß ôçí áõèåíôéêüôçôá, ôç ãåõóôéêÞ êáé âéïëïãéêÞ ôçò áîßá. Ç ñáêÞ, ôï êáëü êñáóß, ôï ðáîéìÜäé, ôï åîáßóéï ëéüëáäï, ôá ðåñßöçìá ôõñïêïìéêÜ ôïõ Ñåèåìíéþôç ôõñïêüìïõ, ïé íôüðéïé ÷õìïß, ïé ðåñßöçìïé ÷ï÷ëéïß, ìá ðÜíù áð´ üëá, ç ÷áñÜ êáé ç öéëïîåíßá, èá óáò óõíôñïöåýïõí óôç äéáìïíÞ óáò. Êáé üôáí ìéóÝøåôå, ðÜñôå ìáæß óáò ôéò ãåýóåéò êáé ôá áñþìáôá ôïõ ôüðïõ. Åßíáé ìïíáäéêü äþñï ãéá óáò êáé ôïõò áãáðçìÝíïõò óáò. Ïéðåñßöçìïé ÷ï÷ëéïß The famous cretan snail recipe


Ç ÅëéÜ

«Êáé ôáí ãáí êáé ôïí ïõñáíüí êáé Þñùáò êáé çñþáóóáò êáé êñÜíáò êáé ðïôáìïýò êáé ðÜíôáò êáé ðÜóáò.» Êáé ôç ãç êáé ôïí ïõñáíüí êáé ôïõò Þñùåò êáé ôéò çñùßäåò êáé ôéò ðçãÝò êáé ôïõò ðïôáìïýò êáé üëïõò ôïõò èåïýò êáé ôéò èåÝò «Êáé åëáßáí Ýêáóôïí öõôåýóåéí êáé ôåèñáììÝíáí áðïäåßîáé. ¼ò äå ìç öõôåýóåé, áðïóåßóåé óôáôÞñáò ðåíôÞêïíôá.» Ïñêéæüìáóôå êáèÝíáò ìáò íá öõôåýóåé åëéÜ êáé í’ áðïäåßîåé ðùò ôç ìåãÜëùóå. ¼ðïéïò äåí ôï êÜìåé, èá ðëçñþóåé ðåíÞíôá óôáôÞñåò ðñüóôéìï. Ôüóç ëïéðüí óçìáóßá åß÷å ç êáëëéÝñãåéá ôçò åëéÜò áðü ôá ðáëéÜ ôá ÷ñüíéá, þóôå ïé áñ÷áßïé ðñüãïíïé êáé ôá ðáéäéÜ ôïõò íá ïñêßæïíôáé ãéá ôçí êáëëéÝñãåéá ôçò. Ç åëéÜ äåí Þôáí Ýíá óõíçèéóìÝíï äÝíôñï. Ï êáñðüò ôçò, óáí ëÜäé êáé öáãþóéìåò åëéÝò, áðïôåëïýóå ìåãÜëï ìÝñïò ôçò êýñéáò ôñïöÞò ôùí Kñçôþí. ÓÞìåñá ç åëéÜ, åßíáé Ýíá áðü ôá êýñéá äÝ-

íôñá ðïõ óõíáíôÜ ï åðéóêÝðôçò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Áóçìü÷ñùìç, óêåðÜæåé ôéò ðëáãéÝò, ïìïñöáßíåé ôç öýóç êáé óõìðëçñþíåé Üñéóôá, ôï åéóüäçìá ôùí êáëëéåñãçôþí. ×áßñåé ìåãÜëïõ óåâáóìïý. Áðïôåëåß ôç âÜóç ôçò êñçôéêÞò äéáôñïöÞò, ðïõ áñãÜ-áñãÜ åîáðëþíåôáé ðáíôïý. Ôï ëÜäé, áíÜâåé ôïõ áãßïõ ôï êáíôÞëé êáé öùôßæåé ôçí åéêüíá, óôá åîùêêëÞóéá. Áéþíåò ç ìïßñá ôïõ äÝíôñïõ áõôïý óõíäÝèçêå ìå ôçí ÊñÞôç. Ñßæùóå óôéò ðÝôñåò, ñïýöçîå ôïõò ÷õìïýò ôçò ãçò êáé ôïõò Ýêáìå åõëïãßá. Ëéêíßóôçêå óôo öýóçìá ôïõ áÝñá êáé óéãïôñáãïýäçóå óôïõò Þ÷ïõò ôçò ëýñáò. Ç ßäéá åëéÜ ðïõ ðÜíù ôçò Ýäùóáí ïé íÝïé ôïí üñêï, åîáêïëïõèåß íá áíáðáýåé ôç ìáôéÜ êáé íá ïìïñöáßíåé ôéò ðëáãéÝò. ËÝíå, ðùò üôáí ïé åâñáßïé êõíçãïýóáí ôï Xñéóôü, Ýãåéñå êáé ôá êëáäéÜ ôçò ôïí óêÝðáóáí. Ïé êáêïß ðÝñáóáí áðü äßðëá êé åêåßíïò ôçí åõëüãçóå. Ç åõëïãßá ôïõ, Ýãéíå ìüíéìç ðñïßêá óôï ôñáíü äÝíôñï. Âáäßæåéò óôïí åëáéþíá êáé îáöíéêÜ öôÜíåé óô’ áõôéÜ óïõ ï áéþíéïò üñêïò :«êáé åëáßáí Ýêáóôïò öõôåýåéí êáé ôåèñáììÝíáí áðïäåßîáé…»

ÑÝèõìíï 21


ÊñçôéêÞ ìïõóéêÞ êáé ôñáãïýäéá Åðß áéþíåò, ôï ôñáãïýäé êáé ç ðáñáäïóéáêÞ ìïõóéêÞ óõíüäåøå ôïí Kñçôéêü óå êÜèå öÜóç, óå êÜèå ãåãïíüò ôçò æùÞò ôïõ. Óôïí ðüëåìï êáé óôçí åéñÞíç, óôç ÷áñÜ êáé óôï èÜíáôï, óôç âÜöôéóç, óôï ãÜìï Þ Ýôóé áðëÜ ÷ùñßò ëüãï, ï êñçôéêüò ôñáãïõäåß. Óôï êñçôéêü ôñáãïýäé êõñéáñ÷åß ç ìáíôéíÜäá êáé ôï ñéæßôéêï. Êñçôéêü äçìéïýñãçìá ôïõ ÉÅ’ áéþíá ç ìáíôéíÜäá, åðåêôÜèçêå ó÷åäüí óå üëç ôçí ÅëëÜäá. Ï Êñçôéêüò, ôï óðáñáãìü ôïõ, ôïõò áãþíåò ôïõ, ìáíôéíÜäá ôïõò Ýêáìå: “×áßñïìáé ðïõ’ìáé êñçôéêüò êáé üðïõ âñåèþ ôï ëÝù. Ìå ìáíôéíÜäåò ôñáãïõäþ, ìå ìáíôéíÜäåò êëáßù.” ÊÜèå ìáíôéíÜäá åßíáé Ýíá êïììÜôé øõ÷Þò. Åêôüò áðü ôá ãëÝíôéá, ìáíôéíÜäåò áêïýò óå ðÜñá ðïëëÝò åêäçëþóåéò: óôï ëéïìÜæùìá, óôïí ôñýãï, óôï êÝíôçìá, óôá âïõíÜ, óôïõò êÜìðïõò. Éäéáßôåñá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÝò åßíáé ïé ìáíôéíÜäåò ôïõ ÊëÞäïíá, ôï íáíïýñéóìá, ôá ìïéñïëüãéá: “¿óôå íá âãáßíåé íá ÷ôõðÜ Þëéïò óôïí Øçëïñåßôç. Èá óôÝêåé êáé èá ðïëåìÜ êáé èá ãëåíôßæåé ç ÊñÞôç.” Ï Êñçôéêüò áõôïäßäáêôïò ìáíôéíáäï-

ëüãïò, «ðïéåß ôá äÝïíôá ïõê åéäþò». Äåí ðÝñáóå áðü ó÷ïëÝò ðïßçóçò. ÐÝñá áðü ôçí ïõóßá ôçò ìáíôéíÜäáò, èáõìÜæåé êáíåßò ôç ãëùóóïðëáóôéêÞ éêáíüôçôá êáé ôçí ðíåõìáôéêÞ äéáýãåéá ôïõ äçìéïõñãïý: “Ï Þëéïò Þñéîå öùôéÜ íá êÜøåé ôï êïñìß óïõ. Êé áõôÞ óôåöÜíé åãßíçêå ÷ñõóü óôçí êåöáëÞ óïõ.” Óôçí ÊñÞôç, ïé ìáíôéíáäïëüãïé åðçñåáóìÝíïé áðü ôïí Åñùôüêñéôï, áõôïó÷åäéÜæïõí ìå êáôáðëçêôéêÞ åôïéìüôçôá, ÷Üñç, æùíôÜíéá êáé áéóèçôéêÞ ïìïñöéÜ ëüãïõ. Ïé óýã÷ñïíïé ôïýôïé ñáøùäïß, åßíáé ïé ßäéïé óõíÞèùò êáé ìïõóéêïß, ðïéçôÝò, ôñáãïõäéóôÝò, ïñãáíïðáß÷ôåò, ÷ïñåõôÝò. ÐÜñá ðïëëïß áðü ôïõò êñçôéêïýò óêïðïýò åßíáé êáé äéêÝò ôïõò äçìéïõñãßåò (êïíôõëéÝò óôåéáêÝò, ìåñáìðåëéþôéêåò, ìáëåâéæéþôéêåò, ñåèåìíéþôéêåò). Ôï æåõãÜñùìá ôùí óôß÷ùí ëåò êáé åßíáé ôï æåõãÜñùìá ôïõ Üíäñá ìå ôç ãõíáßêá, ôçò áñåôÞò ìå ôç ëåâåíôéÜ, ôçò êáñäéÜò ìå ôï óôï÷áóìü. ÐïëëÝò êñçôéêÝò ìáíôéíÜäåò åßíáé áôüöéåò, ðáñìÝíåò áðü ôïí Åñùôüêñéôï: “Ç ãëþóóá ôæ’ åéí’ áóÜëåõôç, ôá ÷åßëç äå ìéëïýóé ôá ìÜôéá èáìðùèÞêáóé äå âëÝðïõ ìðëéü íá äïýóé.” ÌáíôéíÜäá: “Ôï óôüìá ìïõ âïõâÜèçêå, ôá ÷åßëç äå ìéëïýíå ôá ìÜôéá ìïõ èáìðþèçêáí äå âëÝðïõí äå èùñïýíå.” Óôéò ìáíôéíÜäåò, ï ´ óôß÷ïò óõìðëçñþíåé ôïí Á´: “Ùò ðåñéìÝíïõí ôá ðïõëéÜ åéò ôç öùëéÜ ôç ìÜíá. ÅôóÜ èá êáñôåñþ êé åãþ, öùò ìïõ, äéêü óïõ ãñÜììá.”

22 ÑÝèõìíï


Áó÷ïëßåò Ôï ÑÝèõìíï, åßíáé ôüðïò ãåìÜôïò åéêüíåò áíåðáíÜëçðôçò ïìïñöéÜò, Ýíáò óõíäõáóìüò ÷ñùìÜôùí êáé ãåýóåùí êáé ìéá ãÝöõñá ðïõ åíþíåé ôï ðáñåëèüí ìå ôç óýã÷ñïíç æùÞ. Ïé íôüðéïé æïõí ðáñÝá ìå ôá âïõíÜ ôïõò, ôá óÝâïíôáé êáé ðëÜèïõí ðÜíù óôï ðåñßãñáììÜ ôïõò, ìå óåâáóìü, ÷ùñßò âéáéüôçôåò. Ç ëýñá, ï êñçôéêüò ÷ïñüò, ïìïñöáßíåé ôçí êáèçìåñéíÞ ôïõò æùÞ êáé êÜíåé ðéï åýêïëï ôïí êáèçìåñéíü áãþíá. Äçìéïõñãïýí ìáíôéíÜäåò, ôñáãïõäïýí ôïí Ýñùôá, ôç æùÞ êáé ôï èÜíáôï. Ï êñçôéêüò ëáúêüò èñÞíïò, ôá ìïéñïëüãéá, ðåñéëáìâÜíïõí üëç ôç óïößá åíüò ëáïý, ðïõ áãùíßæåôáé ãéá ôç æùÞ êáé äå öïâÞèçêå äéá÷ñïíéêÜ ôï èÜíáôï. Ïé ãéïñôÝò, ïé êïéíùíéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò, óõíïäåýïíôáé áðü ôñáãïýäé, ÷ïñü, ëé÷ïõäéÝò, êñáóß, ñáêÞ. ¸èéìá ðáìðÜëáéá ìå óõãêëïíéóôéêïýò óõìâïëéóìïýò, äéáôçñïýíôáé áéþíåò êáé ïìïñöáßíïõí ôï äýóêïëï êáèçìåñéíü áãþíá. Ç ðåñéï÷Þ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç åßíáé êôçíïôñïöéêÞ. Ç êôçíïôñïößá, ðáñáìÝíåé ðáñáäïóéáêÞ áó÷ïëßá. ¢ñôéá åîïðëéóìÝíåò ìïíÜäåò, áíáëáìâÜíïõí ôçí åðåîåñãáóßá êáé ôçí ôõðïðïßçóç ôïõ ãÜëáêôïò. Ç ðåäéíÞ æþíç ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, åßíáé áðü ôéò ðëÝïí åëáéïðáñáãùãéêÝò. Ç åëéÜ, ôï ðáìðÜëáéï äþñï ôïõ Èåïý óôïí Üíèñùðï, óôïëßæåé ôéò ðëáãéÝò êáé ðáñÜãåé ôï åêëåêôü ôçò äþñï, ôç âÜóç ôçò êñçôéêÞò äéáôñïöÞò, ôï ðåñßöçìï åëáéüëáäï. Ôá áìðÝëéá, ôá óéôçñÜ, ôá ïðùñïöüñá äÝíôñá, óõìðëçñþíïõí éäáíéêÜ ôéò êáëëéÝñãåéåò ðïõ óõíôçñïýí áðü áéþíåò ôïõò áíèñþðïõò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Ç ôïõñéóôéêÞ êßíçóç, Ý÷åé ðñïóöÝñåé íÝ-

åò äñáóôçñéüôçôåò êáé äéåîüäïõò áðáó÷üëçóçò. ÁãñïôïõñéóôéêÝò ìïíÜäåò, ðïõ äçìéïõñãïýíôáé ìå óåâáóìü óôï ðåñéâÜëëïí, êáöåíåßá, ôáâÝñíåò, åñãáóôÞñéá ëáúêÞò ôÝ÷íçò, óõìðëçñþíïõí ìéá ôïõñéóôéêÞ õðïäïìÞ, ðïõ ÷áñáêôçñßæåôáé áðü ôçí ðáôñïðáñÜäïôç öéëïîåíßá ôùí áíèñþðùí. Ìå áðëÜ õëéêÜ êáé ðïëëÞ öáíôáóßá, ï Üíèñùðïò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, äçìéïõñãåß êáëëéôå÷íÞìáôá. ËáúêÝò ôÝ÷íåò ðïõ äéáôçñïýíôáé áêüìç êáé óÞìåñá, ðñïóöÝñïõí áëçèéíÜ áñéóôïõñãÞìáôá. Óôçí Áîü, óôá Áíþãéá, äéáôçñåßôáé æùíôáíÞ ç õöáíôéêÞ ôÝ÷íç. Óôéò Ìáñãáñßôåò êáé ôïí Áóþìáôï ç áããåéïðëáóôéêÞ áíèåß. Óôçí ÁëöÜ ïé ðáñáäïóéáêïß ðåôñÜäåò åîáóêïýí ôçí ôÝ÷íç ôçò ëéèïîïÀáò. Ôï ðëÝîéìï, ôï âåëïíÜêé, ç êáëáèïðëåêôéêÞ óõìðëçñþíïõí ôéò þñåò êáé ôï åéóüäçìá ôùí íôüðéùí. Ôá óôéâáíÜäéêá óõíå÷ßæïõí ìéá ðáìðÜëáéá ôÝ÷íç. Ïé íïéêïêõñÝò äçìéïõñãïýí áñéóôïõñãÞìáôá ðïõ êïóìïýí ôá áñ÷ïíôéêÜ ôçò ÊñÞôçò êáé ðñïóöÝñïõí ïéêïíïìéêÞ áíÜóá óôçí ïéêïãÝíåéá.

ÑÝèõìíï 23


ÑáêÞ

Ìéá óõíÞèåéá ðïõ Ýñ÷åôáé áðü ðïëý ðáëéÜ êáé äéáôçñÞèçêå áôüöéá ìÝ÷ñé ôéò ìÝñåò ìáò. Óôç ÷áñÜ, óôç ãéïñôÞ, óôï ðÝíèïò, óôç äïõëåéÜ Þ Ýôóé áðëÜ ÷ùñßò ëüãï, ç ñáêÞ ãßíåôáé á÷þñéóôïò óýíôñïöïò ôïõ êñçôéêïý. Ôï êÝñáóìá ìå ñáêÞ, éäéáßôåñá ðñÜîç öéëéêÞ, áðïôåëåß êïììÜôé ôçò êñçôéêÞò öéëïîåíßáò. Ç ëýñá êáé ôï ëáïýôï êåëáçäïýí äßðëá óôï ñáêïêÜæáíï ôï öèéíüðùñï, óôá ÷ùñéÜ êáé ôéò ðüëåéò ôçò ÊñÞôçò. Ôï ìåèõóôéêü Üñùìá áðü ôçí êáæáíéÜ óêïñðßæåôáé ãýñù êáé äéáëáëåß ôç æùÞ, ôï êÝöé, ôç ëåâåíôéÜ. Ç ñáêÞ âãáßíåé áðü ôá ôóßêïõäá, ôá õðïëåßììáôá áðü ôï ðÜôçìá ôùí óôáöõëéþí, ãéá ôçí ðáñáãùãÞ ôïõ êñáóéïý. Ôá ôóßêïõäá áðïóôÜæïíôáé êáé ðáñÜãåôáé ç ñáêÞ. ÁãíÞ, ÷ùñßò ðñïóìßîåéò, êñõóôÜëëéíç óáí ôç æùÞ. Ç ðñþôç ñáêÞ ðïõ âãáßíåé áðü ôï êáæÜíé, ëÝãåôáé ðñùôüñáêç êáé åßíáé äõíáôÞ. Ôï êñçôéêü óðßôé Ý÷åé ðÜíôá «êáëÞ ñáêÞ». ÁãíÞ, äõíáôÞ, Ýôïéìç íá ðñïêáëÝóåé ôï êÝöé Þ íá áðáëýíåé ôïí ðüíï. Óå ðïëëÜ ìÝñç âÜæïõí óôï êáæÜíé ìáæß ìå ôá ôóßêïõäá, ìåñéêÜ óýêá ðïõ äßíïõí óôç ñáêÞ ãëõêÜäá. Óå ìåñéêÜ ìÝñç, ç ñáêÞ âãáßíåé áðü ôá ìïýñá, ç ðåñßöçìç ìïõñíéäéÜ Þ ìïõñíüñáêç, åîáéñåôéêÞ ñáêÞ áë-

24 ÑÝèõìíï

ëÜ ðïëý äõíáôÞ. Ç ñáêÞ äåí ðßíåôáé ðïôÝ îåñïóöýñé. Ìéá ïöôÞ ðáôÜôá (øçôÞ óôç ÷üâïëç), äõï ÷ëùñïêïýêéá, Ýíá êïììÜôé ôõñß, ëßãá êáñýäéá Þ áìýãäáëá, ìåñéêÜ êÜóôáíá øçìÝíá óôç ÷üâïëç, åßíáé ï êáëýôåñïò ìåæÝò. Ç ñáêÞ, ëÝíå óôç ÊñÞôç, èåñáðåýåé 42 ðáèÞóåéò. Ç ñáêÞ êáôáëáìâÜíåé óçìáíôéêü ìÝñïò ôçò êñçôéêÞò ëïãïôå÷íßáò. ÓçìÜäé öéëïîåíßáò, ôï êñçôéêü êÝñáóìá ìå ñáêÞ, ãßíåôáé óôï êáöåíåßï Þ óôï óðßôé, Ýíäåéîç öéëßáò êáé åêôßìçóçò, óôïí îÝíï, óôïí åðéóêÝðôç. “ -Íá ðéïýìå ìéá ñáêÞ, êáðåôÜí-Ìé÷Üëç; Åßíáé áðü êßôñï, ôçí ðáñÜããåéëá ãéá ôï ÷áôßñé óïõ. - ÂÜëå íá ðéïýìå, Ýêáìå ï êáðåôÜí-Ìé÷Üëçò. ÃÝìéóå ôá ðïôÞñéá ï ÌðÝçò, ìýñéóå ï êüóìïò êßôñï. -Óôçí õãåéÜ óïõ, ÍïõñÞìðåç, óêïõôåëïâáñßóêù óïõ ! -Êé åãþ áíôéóôÝêïõìáß óïõ! áðïêñßèçêå ï ÌðÝçò Þóõ÷á êïéôÜæïíôáò ôïí óôá ìÜôéá. Óêïýíôñçîáí. Ï êáðåôÜí-Ìé÷Üëçò óçêþèçêå, áíáìÝñéóå ôá êñïýóéá áðü ôï êåöáëïìÜíôçëï ôïõ”. Í. ÊáæáíôæÜêçò áðü ôïí “ÊáðåôÜí Ìé÷Üëç” Ç ßäéá éåñïôåëåóôßá ãßíåôáé óôçí ÊñÞôç êÜèå óôéãìÞ. Ôï ôóïýãêñéóìá ôïõ ñáêïðüôçñïõ, ôï êÝñáóìá, áðïôåëïýí êïììÜôé ôçò êáèçìåñéíüôçôáò, óçìÜäé åêôßìçóçò, êáëùóüñéóìá ìïíáäéêü.

...Ðßíù ñáêÞ êáé äåí ìåèþ, êñáóß êáé äåí ìå ðéÜíåé. Ìüíï ôï ìðñïýóêï ôïõ óåâíôÜ óôçí üñåîç ìå âãÜíåé...


Ï Óôáõñüò óôçí ÊñÞôç ÊÜðïõ óôç ìÝóç ôïõ íçóéïý, åêåß üðïõ åíþíåôáé ìå ôï Äçìéïõñãü ôçò, åêåß üðïõ ïé âñïíôÝò êáé ïé áóôñáðÝò èáññåßò æùíôáíåýïõí ôç Èåßá Óôáýñùóç, åêåß üðïõ ôï öýóçìá ôïõ áÝñá ôñïìÜæåé, èáññåßò ðùò èÝëåé íá åîáûëþóåé ôï óþìá, óôçí øçëüôåñç êïñöÞ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, óå ýøïò 2500 ìÝôñùí õðÜñ÷åé Ýíá áíèñþðéíï äçìéïýñãçìá, Ýíá åêêëçóÜêé áöéåñùìÝíï óôïí Ôßìéï Óôáõñü. ¸íáò óôáõñüò ðïõ óêßæåé ôïí ïõñáíü ëåò êáé èÝëåé íá áããßîåé ôá íÝöç, íá ìåôáöÝñåé ôéò øõ÷Ýò óôï Üðåéñï. Êáé üôáí ôï ÷éüíé óêåðÜóåé ôï èåúêü óýìâïëï, ç åëðßäá õðÜñ÷åé ðùò óå ëßãï ï Þëéïò èá ôï ëéþóåé, ï áÝñáò èá äéþîåé ôá ðõêíÜ óýííåöá êáé èá îáíáäåß ôïí Þëéï, íá öùôßæåé ôéò êïñöÝò. Êáé åßíáé ôïýôï Ýíá óçìÜäé, ðùò êÜèå äõóêïëßá óå ôïýôï ôïí êüóìï ðåñíÜ êáé ç îáóôåñéÜ óå ôïýôç ôç æùÞ èá îáíÜñèåé êáé èá îáíáöÝñåé ôç ãáëÞíç. Ï Êñçôéêüò áðü ôüôå ðïõ ôï ìÞíõìá ôçò Ïñèïäïîßáò ðÝñáóå óôï ëáü ôçò, ðßóôåøå óôï óýìâïëï ôïýôï, ôï êñÝìáóå óôï óôÞèïò, ôïí ÷Üñáîå óôéò ðåëåêçìÝíåò ðÝôñåò, ôïí öýëáîå óôï åéêïíïóôÜóé, ôïí Ýêáíå ðïëýôéìï èçóáõñü. Óôïõò äýóêïëïõò ÷ñüíïõò ôçò óêëáâéÜò ôïí ÷Üñáîå ðÜíù óôçí åëéÜ, êñõöü ÷Üñáãìá ðßóôçò, óå äÝíôñï éåñü. Ôïí êáéñü ôçò ðáíïýêëáò ðïõ îåêëçñßóôçêáí ïéêïãÝíåéåò, ï îýëéíïò óôáõñüò Ýãéíå áðïêïýìðé êáé êáôáöýãéï. Ï êñçôéêüò êáëëéôÝ-

÷íçò èá óêáëßóåé óôï îýëï ôï éåñü óýìâïëï êáé èá ôï äþóåé óôïí ðáðÜ ãéá ôçí åõëïãßá. Ï ßäéïò ôïýôïò óôáõñüò, ôïðïèåôåßôáé ðÜíù óôá ëïõëïýäéá ôçò ÊñÞôçò óôï äßóêï ãéá íá óêïñðßóåé ðáíôïý ôçí åõùäéÜ. Ç ìáíôæïõñÜíá êáé ï âáóéëéêüò èá óôïëßóïõí ôï óôáõñü óôç ìåãÜëç ãéïñôÞ ôçò óôáõñïðñïóêýíçóçò Êé ýóôåñá ç íïéêïêõñÜ èá ðÜñåé ôá êïììÜôéá ôïõ öõôïý èá ôï öõôÝøåé êáé óôéò 14 ÓåðôÝìâñç, èá ôï öÝñåé óôçí åêêëçóéÜ ãéá íá ìõñþóåé ôçí ýøùóç ôïõ Ôéìßïõ Óôáõñïý. Ôï Óôáõñü, ï êñçôéêüò, ðÝñáóå óôçí êáèçìåñéíÞ ôïõ æùÞ. Óôï îåêßíçìá ôçò ìÝñáò ôïõ, óôï øùìß ðïõ ôïí ôñÝöåé, óôéò âåëïíéÝò ôçò êåíôÞóôñáò, óôá âáñÝëéá ìå ôï êñáóß, óôá ðéèÜñéá ìå ôï ëÜäé, óôï áíþöõëëï ôïõ óðéôéïý. Óôáýñùóå ôç âñýóç ðïõ ôïí îåäßøáóå, ôïí Ýäùóå óôï öáíôÜñï ãéá öõëá÷ôü, ôïí ðñüóöåñå óôï ãáìðñü êáé ôç íýöç. Ï ÷ñõóï÷üïò ðÞñå ôï ðïëýôéìï ìÝôáëëï êáé ìå áðáñÜìéëëç ôÝ÷íç. Ï ôå÷íßôçò ðÞñå ôçí ðÝôñá êáé óêÜëéóå ôï éåñü óýìâïëï êáé ì’ áõôü óçìÜäåøå ôïí ôñïýëï ôçò åêêëçóéÜò. Ôïí áðüèåóå ìå åõëÜâåéá ðÜíù ôçí ðëÜêá ðïõ óêåðÜæåé ôï ôÝëïò ôçò æùÞò. Êáé óÞìåñá óôïí êáéñü ôçò ìéæÝñéáò êáé ôçò ðáñáêìÞò óôçí ÊñÞôç, ï Óôáõñüò óõíå÷ßæåé íá äåß÷íåé ôï äñüìï ôçò äéêáéïóýíçò êáé ôïõ áãþíá.

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ÊñçôéêÞ öïñåóéÜ Ç êñçôéêÞ öïñåóéÜ, áêïëïýèçóå ôï ãåíéêüôåñï ôñüðï Ýíäõóçò êÜèå åðï÷Þò. Ðñïóáñìüóôçêå óôéò áðáãïñåýóåéò ôùí êáôáêôçôþí êáé ãíþñéóå äéÜöïñåò ìåôáëëáãÝò óôïõò áéþíåò. Áðü ôïí 16ï áéþíá, Ýêáìå ôçí åìöÜíéóç ôçò êáé óôçí ÊñÞôç, ç ãíùóôÞ óôïí åõñýôåñï ÷þñï ôïõ Áéãáßïõ, ç âñÜêá, ç ïðïßá Ýãéíå äçìïöéëÞò êáé êáèéåñþèçêå ùò êýñéï áíäñéêü Ýíäõìá. ÁíÜëïãá ìå ôç ÷ñÞóç êáé ôá õëéêÜ êáôáóêåõÞò ôçò, ç âñÜêá, äéáêñßíåôáé óå êáèçìåñéíÞ, ãéïñôáóôéêÞ êáé åðßóçìç. Ç êáèçìåñéíÞ, êáôáóêåõÜæåôáé áðü ìáýñï óêïýñï ìðëå ðáíß ôïõ áñãáëåéïý, ç ãéïñôáóôéêÞ ëÝãåôáé óáëâÜñéá êáé ãßíåôáé áðü ýöáóìá ìðëå ÷ñþìáôïò. Ôçí åðßóçìç åíäõìáóßá, ñÜâïõí ïé ôåñæÞäåò êáé åêôüò áðü ôç âñÜêá, ôçí áðïôåëïýí ôï ìåúíôÜíé êáé ôï ãéëÝêï, ç æþíç, ôï êñïõóïìÜíôéëï, ôï ðïõêÜìéóï, ôá óôéâÜíéá, êáäÝíá áëõóßäá óôï ëáéìü êáé ôï áóçìïìÜ÷áéñï óôç ìÝóç. Ç ÷ñÞóç ôçò âñÜêáò óôçí ÊñÞôç, Üñ÷éóå íá åãêáôáëåßðåôáé ìå ôá÷ý ñõèìü óôá ìÝóá ôïõ ôïõ áéþíá ìáò. ¸íáò ôýðïò Ýíäõóçò åßíáé ç êõëüôá, óôñáôéùôéêïý ôý-

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ðïõ ðáíôåëüíé, ðïõ ìðáßíåé ìÝóá óôï óôéâÜíé êáé óõíïäåýåôáé áðü ìáýñï ðïõêÜìéóï, óáêÜêé, ìáýñï ìáíôÞëé óôï êåöÜëé, óôéâÜíéá. Áíôßèåôá ç ãõíáéêåßá öïñåóéÜ, ðáñïõóßáæå ìåãÜëç ðïéêéëßá áðü ðåñéï÷Þ óå ðåñéï÷Þ (óÜñôæá óôá ÓöáêéÜ êáé óôá Áíþãéá Ìõëïðüôáìïõ, Êïýäá óôçí ÊñéôóÜ ÌåñáìâÝëïõ). Ãéá ôéò ãõíáßêåò ìÝóçò çëéêßáò êáé ôéò çëéêéùìÝíåò, êýñéï Ýíäõìá åßíáé ôï óáêêïöïýóôáíï, áðü Ýíá åßäïò óÜêïõ êáé åðåíäýôç, ôï ôóåìðÝñé êÜëõìá ôçò êåöáëÞò, ìáýñïõ ÷ñþìáôïò ãéá ôéò ÷Þñåò. Ç óöáêéáíÞ öïñåóéÜ, ðåñéëáìâÜíåé Ýíá ìáêñý öïñÝá ìå ìðïýóôï êáé ðïëýðôõ÷ç âõóóéíß öïýóôá êáé êáôáóêåõáæüôáí áðü ìåôáîùôÜ õöÜóìáôá. Ðëïýóéï ôåìÜ÷éï ôçò åíäõìáóßáò Þôáí ôï æéðïýíé. Ç íýöç ôï öïñïýóå ìåôÜ ôï ãÜìï ôçò. ¸öåñå óôç ìÝóç áñãõñïðïßêéëôï ìá÷áßñé, äþñï ôïõ áññáâùíéáóôéêïý, äåßãìá ëåâåíôéÜò êé õðåñçöÜíåéáò. Óôï êåöÜëé öïñïýóå êüêêéíï ôõñðÜí áðü âåëïýäï Þ ìåôáîùôü ìáíôÞëé. Ãýñù áðü ôï ëáéìü ôçò öïñïýóå, üðùò óå üëç ôçí ÊñÞôç, ðåñéäÝñáéï áðü ÷ñõóÜ äéÜôñçôá íïìßóìáôá, ôéò êïëáÀíåò, ðïõ áñéèìïýóáí áðü 101 ùò 202 ÷ñõóÜ öëïõñéÜ.


Ç åíäõìáóßá áðïôåëåß ìßá óçìáíôéêÞ ìáñôõñßá ãéá ôï Þèïò, ôïí ÷áñáêôÞñá êáé ôçí áîéï��ýíç ôïõ êÜèå ôüðïõ. Ç êñçôéêÞ öïñåóéÜ ìáñôõñÜ ôç äåîéïôå÷íßá, ôç öáíôáóßá, ôçí åõáéóèçóßá, ôï äõíáìéóìü, ôç óåìíüôçôá êáé ôçí ðåñçöÜíéá ôïõ Êñçôéêïý Ëáïý. Ìéá âåëüíá êáé ìéá êëùóôÞ, åßíáé ôá åñãáëåßá ìïõ ãéá íá áíáâéþóù üëï ôïýôï ôï ìåãáëåßï...Ç ìåëÝôç êáé ç ðéóôüôçôá, åßíáé ôá üðëá ìïõ ãéá íá äéáóþóù áð’ôï áìåßëçêôï ðÝñáóìá ôïõ ÷ñüíïõ, ôçí ðáíÝìïñöç ðáñÜäïóÞ ìáò.

ËÝëá ÊëåéäÞ ÑÜâïíôáé ÷åéñïðïßçôåò ðáñáäïóéáêÝò öïñåóéÝò ðéóôÜ ìïõóåéáêÜ áíôßãñáöá Ôçë: 210 9611151 Êéíçôü: 6938 859352

...¹âñá ìåôáîùôÞ êëùóôÞ íá öÜíù ìáîéëÜñé, ãéá íá ìðåñäåøåé ç íéüôç óïõ, Üëëç íá ìç óå ðÜñåé...

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Ìéá ðüëç, ìéá Éóôïñßá...

«Ôï ÑÝèåìíïò åßíáé ìéá ìéêñÞ ðïëéôåßá ì’ åöôÜ Ýùò ï÷ôþ ÷éëéÜäåò øõ÷Ýò, ÷ôéóìÝíç ãéáëü-ãéáëü óôç âïñåéíÞ óôåñéÜ ôçò ÊñÞôçò, áðÜíù óôï ìåóïóôñÜôé áðü ×áíéÜ óå Ìåãáëüêáóôñï. ËÝãåôáé ðùò ôïí ðáëéü êáéñü áêïýóôçêå óôïí êüóìï ãéá ôï åìðüñéï ôçò, ðùò ðñüêïøå óôç íáõôïóýíç, ãÝííçóå êéüëáò äõü-ôñåéò êáëïýò ðïéçôÜäåò êáé æùãñÜöïõò ðïýíáé ðÜíôá ÷ñåéáóôïß ãéá íá âáóôéÝôáé ôüíïìá åíüò ôüðïõ áêáôÜëõôï, üôáí âïõâáèïýí ôá ðáæÜñéá ôïõ êé ïé ôáñóáíÜäåò ôïõ ñçìÜæïõí êáé ôá êáëýôåñá ðáéäéÜ ôïõ êÜìïõí öýëëá êáé öôåñÜ. ÊïíôÜ ó’ áõôÜ ëÝãåôáé, áêüìá, ðñÜãìá ðïõ ìðïñåßò íá ôï âåâáéþóåéò êáé óÞìåñá, ðùò ïé ðïëßôåò ôïõ ÑåèÝìíïõ Þôáí Üíèñùðïé áãáèïß, óåìíïß êáé óõíÜìá ðåñÞöáíïé, äéáâáóìÝíïé êáé êáëüôñïðïé, êïíôïëïãßò åßäïò ðïèçôü ìÝóá óôï öéëïôÜñá÷ï íçóß…» Áðü ôï ×ñïíéêü ìéáò Ðïëéôåßáò ôïõ Ð. ÐñåâåëÜêç

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ÐÜíù óå ìéá ìéêñÞ ãëþóóá óôåñéÜò, ðïõ óôçí áðüëçîÞ ôçò åéó÷ùñåß óôï óõ÷íÜ èõìùìÝíï êñçôéêü ðÝëáãïò, êïõñíéÜæåé ôï ÑÝèåìíïò. Åêôåßíåôáé óôçí ðëáãéÜ êáé óôåöáíþíåé ôç èÜëáóóá ðïõ áðëþíåôáé ìðñïóôÜ êáé óôÜèçêå åõåñãåôéêÞ ôïõò íôüðéïõò, óôï ðÝñáóìá ôùí ÷ñüíùí. Óôçí Üêñç ôçò óôåñéáíÞò ãëþóóáò, ðåñÞöáíá ïñèþíïíôáé ôá ôåß÷ç ôïõ êÜóôñïõ, ôçò ðåñßöçìçò ÖïñôÝôóáò. Ôï «ðáíôÝñìï» áãáðçìÝíï ÑÝèåìíïò, ìå ôéò êïêêéíùðÝò êåñáìéäÝíéåò óêåðÝò êáé ôïõò ðáíýøçëïõò ìéíáñÝäåò, ðïõ áðüìåéíáí îå÷áóìÝíïé äáêôõëïäåß÷íïíôáò åóáåß ô’ ïõñáíïý ôï ãáëÜæéï. ÃåíÝôåéñá ôïõ ×ïñôÜôæç, ôïõ Ôñïúëïý êáé ôïõ ÐÜíäçìïõ, ôïõ Ðéêáôþñïõ, ôïõ ÌÜñêïõ Ìïõóïýñïõ, ôïõ ÌðïõíéáëÞ êáé ôïõ ÐñåâåëÜêç, ôï ÑÝèåìíïò áíáäßäåé ôï Üñùìá åíüò åõãåíéêïý äõóåýñåôïõ ëïõëïõäéïý. Ôï 1561 ïé Ñåèýìíéïé ÷ñéóôéáíïß, ßäñõóáí ôçí ðñþôç Áêáäçìßá óå ïëüêëçñç ôçí ÊñÞôç êáé ôïí Åëëáäéêü


÷þñï. Ôçí Áêáäçìßá ôùí Vivi, äçëáäÞ ôùí æùíôáíþí, ôùí áóõìâßâáóôùí, ãåãïíüò ðïõ öáíåñþíåé ôçí áíôáðüêñéóç êáé ýðáñîç ìáèçôþí ðïõ öïéôïýóáí ó’ áõôÞ. ÁéóèÜíåóáé ôçí áíÜãêç íá ðÜñåéò ìéá ãåýóç ôçò üìïñöçò, ðáìðÜëáéáò ðïëéôåßáò. ÎåêéíÜò äéáâáßíïíôáò ôéò ðÝôñéíåò êáìÜñåò ðïõ åíþíïõí ôá ðáëéïêáéñßôéêá áñ÷ïíôéêÜ êáé îåäéðëþíïíôáé ìðñïóôÜ óïõ áôÝëåéùôá óå ìÜêñïò óïêÜêéá êáé êáëíôåñßìéá. ÓôåíÜ óïêÜêéá Ýôóé ãéá íá öôÜíïõí íá ÷áéñåôéïýíôáé êáëçìåñßæïíôáò ïé áíôéêñéíÝò ïéêïäÝóðïéíåò êáé íá óêïõíôïýí ôá ãåìÜôá ôïõò ñáêïðüôçñá ïé Üíäñåò ôá Óáââáôïêýñéáêá, êáèéóìÝíïé ìðñïóôÜ óôéò ïñèÜíïé÷ôåò ðüñôåò êáé óôá êáöáóùôÜ ïíôáëßäéêá ðáñáèýñéá. ÁðÜíù ôïõò êñåìéïýíôáé êéüóêéá êáé ãáñýöáëëá êáé ìõñéóôéêÜ. Êáé üëï óõíáíôÜò óêáëéóìÝíá õðÝñèõñá êáé óôçèáßá êáé áêïýò ôçí áéþíéá öùíÞ ôçò éóôïñßáò, ðïõ óå óõíåðáßñíåé. Óôï ôÝëïò, Ý÷åéò ôçí áßóèçóç ðùò äïêßìáóåò Ýíá ïíïìáóôü õðÝñï÷ï êñáóß, áðü ôéò óðÜíéåò öéÜëåò ìéá åóïäåßáò îå÷ùñéóôÞò. Åßóáé ãåìÜôïò áðü ôçí çñåìßá ôïõ íïõ êáé ôç äéá÷ñïíéêÞ ïìïñöéÜ, ðïõ óå óõíåðáßñíåé êáé óå ôáîéäåýåé óå Üëëåò åðï÷Ýò. Ç ìéêñüôåñç áðü ôéò ôñåßò éóôïñéêÝò ðüëåéò ôçò ÊñÞôçò, åßíáé ôï ÑÝèõìíï. Ìéá ðüëç ìå 25.000 êáôïßêïõò, ðñùôåýïõóá ôïõ ïìþíõìïõ íïìïý, ìÝ÷ñé ôçí êáôÜñãçóç ôïõ, óçìáíôéêü êáé äéïéêçôéêü êÝíôñï ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. ÖùëéáóìÝíï óôç èÜëáóóá äßðëá, âñßóêåôáé óôï ìåóïóôñÜôé, ìåôáîý Çñáêëåßïõ ×áíßùí. Ãéá ôï ëüãï ôïýôï, ïé Åíåôïß ôï ÷ñçóéìïðïßçóáí óáí åíäéÜìåóï óôáèìü êáé ïñìçôÞñéï. “Ôóé ÊñÞôçò ôó’ åêáôüìðïëçò êáñäéÜí

åìÝíá ëÝóé. Ãéáôß ÷ôéóìÝíç âñßóêïìáé åéò ôïõ íçóéïý ôç ìÝóç. ¼÷é óôç ìÝóç óôá âïõíÜ áìÞ óôï ðåñéãéÜëé. Êé üóïé êé áí ìå êïéôÜæïõóé ÷áñÜ ÷ïõóé ìåãÜëç.” (Áðü ôïí Êñçôéêü ðüëåìï ôïõ ÔæÜíå ÌðïõíéáëÞ) ÃñáöéêÞ ðïëéôåßá ôï ÑÝèõìíï, ãåìÜôç ïìïñöéÝò, õðïäÝ÷åôáé öéëéêÜ ôïí åðéóêÝðôç, îåôõëßãåé óôá ìÜôéá ôïõ ðñùôüãíùñåò åéêüíåò êáé ôïí îåíáãåß óôç ìáêñü÷ñïíç éóôïñéêÞ ôçò äéáäñïìÞ. Ôï ÑÝèõìíï åßíáé êôéóìÝíï ðÜíù óôá åñåßðéá ôçò ðáíÜñ÷áéáò ðüëçò, «Ñßèõìíá». Ç Ñßèõìíá Þôáí áîéüëïãç ôïõò ìõêçíáúêïýò ÷ñüíïõò, üðùò äåß÷íïõí ôá íåêñïôáöåßá ôçò. ÌÝóá óôçí ðüëç, óå èåìÝëéá íÝùí ïéêïäïìþí, âñÝèçêáí øçöéäùôÜ ñùìáúêÞò êáé âõæáíôéíÞò ðåñéüäïõ. Ôï üíïìá Ñßèõìíá åßíáé ðñïåëëçíéêü. Ôï óçìåñéíü ÑÝèõìíï, ÑÝèåìíïò, Ñåèýìíç åßíáé ðáñáöèïñÜ ôïõ áñ÷áßïõ ïíüìáôïò. Ôï ÑÝèõìíï áñ÷ßæåé íá ãßíåôáé ðïëéôåßá ôçí ðåñßïäï ôçò Åíåôïêñáôßáò. Ïé Âåíåôïß, êõñßáñ÷ïé óôç èÜëáóóá, åß÷áí áíÜãêç áðü Ýíá ëéìÜíé ãéá íá êáôáöåýãïõí ïé ãáëÝñåò ðïõ ðáñÜðëåáí ôá âüñåéá ðáñÜëéá áðü ôï ×Üíäáêá óôá ×áíéÜ êáé äéáóêåýáóáí êáôÜëëçëá ôï ÌáíôñÜêé Ñåèýìíïõ. Óå áíôßèåóç ìå ôá ×áíéÜ êáé ôï ×Üíôáêá, üðïõ êõñéáñ÷ïýóå ôï öñÜãêéêï óôïé÷åßï, ôï ÑÝèåìíïò äéáôÞñçóå ôïí åëëçíéêü ôïõ ÷áñáêôÞñá. Åß÷å ôïõò ðåñéóóüôåñïõò ¸ëëçíåò åõãåíåßò, ôïõò áñ÷ïíôïñùìáßïõò. Ôï 1583 åß÷å 213 åõãåíåßò êñçôéêïýò êáé ìüíï 84 åíåôïýò. Ïé Ôïýñêïé êáôÝëáâáí ôï ÑÝèõìíï, ýóôåñá áðü ðïëéïñêßá 22 çìåñþí, óôéò 3 ÍïÝìâñç 1646. Ç ÌåãÜëç ÓöáãÞ ÌåôÜ ôçí ðáñÜäïóç ôùí ×áíéþí óôïõò Ôïýñêïõò, ï Óôñáôçãüò ÊïñíÜñï Üöçóå ðßóù ìéá óöáäÜæïõóá ðïëéôåßá ðáñáäïìÝíç óôéò âáñâáñüôçôåò êáé êá-

ÑÝèõìíï 31


ôÝöõãå óôï ÑÝèõìíï ãéá íá óõíå÷ßóåé ôïí áãþíá. Ôçí ÊõñéáêÞ åííéÜ ôïõ ÓåðôÝìâñç 1646 ôá ìéëéïýíéá ôùí Ôïýñêùí ðåñéóößããïõí ôï ÑÝèåìíïò. Ëßãï ðñéí Ýíá ìåãÜëï ìÝñïò ôùí ãõíáéêüðáéäùí, ðÞñå ôï äñüìï ôçò ðñïóöõãéÜò. Ôá ãõíáéêüðáéäá êáôÝöõãáí óôï ×Üíôáêá. Ôïýôåò ïé ôñáãéêÝò þñåò, ãñÜöôçêå ìéá áðü ôéò óêïôåéíÝò óåëßäåò ôïõ «Êñçôéêïý ðïëÝìïõ». Ôá üóá ôñáãéêÜ Ýãéíáí óôï ìåãÜëï ÊÜóôñï óáí Ýöôáóáí ïé êáôáôñåãìÝíïé ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ ðåñéãñÜöïíôáé áðü ôïí ßäéï ôïí ÌðïõíéáëÞ: Êé Üëëïé óôï êÜóôñï ðÞãáóé âÜíïõóé óô´ áñóáíÜäåò êáé áãêáëéáóôïß áðïèÜíáóé ôÝêíá ìå ôóé ìáíÜäåò. Ç ôåëéêÞ åðßèåóç Ýãéíå óôéò 10 Ïêôþâñç. Ïé áðåãíùóìÝíåò ðñïóðÜèåéåò ôïõ ÊïñíÜñï íá åìøõ÷þóåé ôïõò Üíôñåò ôïõ äåí áñêïýí. Ç ðüëéò ÅÜëù. Êáé áñ÷ßæåé ç ðÜëç. Êïñìß ìå êïñìß. ÐåôáëéÝò êáé ÷ëéìéíôñßóìáôá áöçíéáóìÝíùí áëüãùí. Óùñïß óöáãìÝíùí êáé áßìá ðïõ á÷íßæåé. Êñüôïé, âüããïé, ñüã÷ïé. Áãùíßá êáé ðüíïò. Êáé áãþíáò íá ìåôáöåñèïýí ïé ëáâùìÝíïé óôç ÖïñôÝôóá. Ìéá ðïëéôåßá ðáñáäïìÝíç óôç èåñéåìÝíç öùôéÜ. Ôá ïõñëéá÷ôÜ ôùí ãõíáéêþí ðïõ âéÜæïíôáé. Ôç âßá óêïôåéíÞ, âÜñâáñç, êôçíþäç. ôñüìïò êáé èÜíáôïò. Êé üëá ôïýôá îáíÜ êáé îáíÜ óå þñåò ðåôñùìÝíåò ðïõ ãßíïíôáé áéþíåò êáé äåí ôåëåéþíïõí. Êáé ôüôå ðïõ ãéíüôáí ï èåïôéêüò îïëïèñåìüò, Ýëáìøå ï Þëéïò, óôñáöôÜëéóå ç èÜëáóóá êáé áíôéöÝããéóå ôï ãåëáóôü ðñüóùðï ôïõ ïõñáíïý. Ìéá öýóç æåóôÞ ðáñèÝíá, óáí ôá êÜëëç ìéêñÞò ðáñèÝíáò, Ýóôåéëå ðáíôïý ôçí ãëõêéÜ ôçò ìõñùäéÜ, íá óêåðÜóåé ôéò áíèñþðéíåò áóêÞìéåò. ¹ôáí óá íá ãåëïýóå ôï ßäéï ôï ðñüóùðï ôïõ Èåïý. Åíüò ïëüôåëá îÝíïõ ðñïò ôá ðáéäéÜ ôïõ èåïý. Êáé ìüëéò ôÝëåøå ï èåïôéêüò ÷áëáóìüò Ýóìéîáí ôá äáóùìÝíá

32 ÑÝèõìíï

öñýäéá ô’ ïõñáíïý. Êáé ãßíçêå üëïò Ýíá ìáýñï óýííåöï. Êé Þôáí ï ðÜôáãïò, áðü ô’ áóôñïðåëÝêéá êáé ôéò âñïíôÝò, óá íá ÷ôõðéïýíôáé äõï âïõíÜ ìåôáîý ôïõò. Êáé ìåôÜ ôï íåñü. Ëõôñùôéêü. Êáèáñôéêü. Öáßíåôáé ðùò Þôáí ôï Üëëï ðñüóùðï ôïõ èåïý. Ôï êëáìÝíï. Ôï ëõðçìÝíï ðñüóùðï ðïõ óôñÜöçêå îáíÜ óôá ðáéäéÜ ôïõ. ÎÝðëåíáí ôï áßìá ôá äáêôõëßäéá ôçò âñï÷Þò áðü ôéò ðëÜêåò, ôá êáëíôåñßìéá ôïõò ôïß÷ïõò, áð ôá óêáëéÜ, ôéò ÷ïñôáóìÝíåò ãïýâåò ôçò ãçò. Êáé êáôçöüñéæå ç âñï÷Þ ìå ôï áßìá êáé ÷õíüôáí óôç èÜëáóóá ðïõ äåñíüôáí êáé ìïýãêñéæå. Ôçí ðåñßïäï ôçò Ôïõñêïêñáôßáò áêïëïýèçóå ôçí ôý÷ç ôùí Üëëùí ðüëåùí. Ôï 1821 ïé Ôïýñêïé Ýóöáîáí ðïëëïýò ×ñéóôéáíïýò óôï ÑÝèõìíï. Ôï 1824 áðïêåöÜëéóáí Ýîù áðü ôç ÌåãÜëç Ðüñôá ôïõò ôÝóóåñéò íåïìÜñôõñåò ÌáíïõÞë, Íéêüëáï, Ãåþñãéï êáé ÁããåëÞ ÑåôæÝðç áðü ôéò ÌÝëáìðåò. Óôç ìíÞìç ôïõò, êôßóôçêå ç óçìåñéíÞ åêêëçóßá ôùí ÔåóóÜñùí Ìáñôýñùí. ÅïñôÜæïíôáé ðáíçãõñéêÜ óôéò 28 Ïêôùâñßïõ. ÐïëëÝò åðáíáóôÜóåéò, óöáãÝò, áãþíåò ãéá ôçí áðåëåõèÝñùóç áêïëïýèçóáí ìÝ÷ñé ôçí ôåëéêÞ äéêáßùóç. Áîßæåé íá áíáöÝñïìå ôç ìåãÜëç ÊñçôéêÞ åðáíÜóôáóç ôïõ 1866-1869 êáé ôï äñÜìá ôçò áíáôßíáîçò ôçò êïíôéíÞò ìïíÞò ôïõ Áñêáäßïõ. Áðü ôï 1868 ìå ôïí ïñãáíéêü íüìï, ç ÊñÞôç âñßóêåôáé óå çìéáõôüíïìç êáôÜóôáóç. Ç øÞöéóç ôïõ ðñþôïõ ôïõñêéêïý óõíôÜãìáôïò êáé ç Üñíçóç ôïõ ôïýñêïõ äéïéêçôÞ íá äéáôçñÞóåé ôï çìéáõôüíïìï ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ïäÞãçóáí óôçí åðáíÜóôáóç ôïõ 1878. Ìå áöïñìÞ ôçí åðáíÜóôáóç ôïõ 1889 áíáêëÞèçêå êáé ìáæß ìå áõôüí êáé ôá ðñïíüìéá ðïõ ðáñåß÷å óôï íçóß. Óôéò 3 Öåâñïõáñßïõ 1897, ïé ìåãÜëåò äõíÜìåéò áðïöÜóéóáí íá ðñïâïýí óå êáôï÷Þ ôçò


ÊñÞôçò. Ôï ÑÝèõìíï êáôáëåßöèçêå áðü ôá ñùóéêÜ óôñáôåýìáôá, ðïõ óôï ìåãáëýôåñï ôïõò ìÝñïò áðï÷þñçóáí ôï 1907. Ôï êñçôéêü Óýíôáãìá äçìïóéåýôçêå óôéò 16 Áðñéëßïõ ôïõ 1899 êáé áìÝóùò åöáñìüóôçêå. Ôï 1908 ïé êñçôéêïß êáôÝëõóáí ôï Óýíôáãìá êáé êÞñõîáí ôçí Ýíùóç ìå ôçí ÅëëÜäá. Ôçí 1ç Äåêåìâñßïõ ôïõ 1913 êçñý÷ôçêå ç åðßóçìç ¸íùóç ìå ôçí ÅëëÜäá. Ôï 1924 ïé ôïõñêïêñçôéêïß áíá÷þñçóáí õðï÷ñåùôéêÜ ãéá ôç ÌéêñÜ Áóßá óôá ðëáßóéá ôçò óõíèÞêçò ôçò ËùæÜííçò ðïõ ðñüâëåðå ôçí áíôáëëáãÞ ôùí ðëçèõóìþí. Ïé ðñüóöõãåò áðïôÝëåóáí óçìáíôéêü ìï÷ëü áíÜðôõîçò. Ôï ÌÜç ôïõ 1941, ç ðåñéï÷Þ ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ õðÞñîå Ýíá áðü ôá ôñßá ìÝôùðá åðßèåóçò ôùí Ãåñìáíþí áëåîéðôùôéóôþí. Ç ðåñéï÷Þ áíáôïëéêÜ ôçò ðüëçò Ýãéíå ðñü÷åéñï áåñïäñüìéï. ÐáñÜ ôïí áñ÷éêü áéöíéäéáóìü, ïé äõíÜìåéò ðïõ õðåñáóðßóôçêáí ôïí ôïìÝá áõôü, êáôüñèùóáí íá ðåñéïñßóïõí ôïõò åéóâïëåßò êáé íá áíôÝîïõí ìÝ÷ñé ôçí êáôÜññåõóç ôïõ âáóéêïý ìåôþðïõ ôïõ áåñïäñïìßïõ ÌÜëåìå. ÌåôÜ ôçí êáôÜëçøç ôïõ íçóéïý, Ýíá ôåñÜóôéï ìÝôùðï áíôßóôáóçò äçìéïõñãÞèçêå óôï ÑÝèõìíï êáé áðëþèçêå óôçí ðüëç êáé ôçí ýðáéèñï.

Ôá áíôßðïéíá ôùí êáôáêôçôþí õðÞñîáí ðïëý ìåãÜëá. 1837 Üíäñåò, 405 ãõíáßêåò, 405 íåêñÜ ðáéäéÜ Þôáí ïé íåêñïß, èõóéÜóôçêáí ãéá ôçí åëåõèåñßá ôïõ ôüðïõ ôïõò. 2400 óðßôéá ñéæéêÜ êáé 1300 êáôáóôñÜöçêáí ìåñéêÜ óôï íïìü Ñåèýìíçò. Ç áðåëåõèÝñùóç ôçò ÊñÞôçò êáé ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ áðïôåëåß ôçí áðáñ÷Þ ìéáò íÝáò ðåñéüäïõ áíÜðôõîçò ôçò ðüëåùò. Ç ðüëç óôáèåñÜ åîåëß÷ôçêå óå óçìáíôéêü êÝíôñï ôïõ íïìïý, ìå áíáðôõãìÝíç ãåùñãßá êáé êôçíïôñïößá. Ç áéóèçôéêÞ, ôçò Üñéóôá äéáôçñçìÝíçò ðüëçò, ç èÝóç ôçò óôç ìÝóç ìéáò ìåãÜëçò ðáñáëßáò, èá Ý÷åé ùò áðïôÝëåóìá ôçí Ýíôïíç ôïõñéóôéêÞ áíÜðôõîç ðïõ Ýêáíå ôï ÑÝèõìíï Ýíáí áðü ôïõò âáóéêïýò ôïõñéóôéêïýò ðñïïñéóìïýò. ÅðéðëÝïí, ç ßäñõóç ôïõ ðáíåðéóôçìßïõ ÊñÞôçò êáôÜ ôç äåêáåôßá ôïõ 1970, èá ìåôáôñÝøåé ôï ÑÝèõìíï óå êÝíôñï áíÜðôõîçò öéëïëïãéêþí êáé êïéíùíéêþí óðïõäþí, åíþ ïé ÷éëéÜäåò öïéôçôÝò êáé ïé êáèçãçôÝò ôïõò óõíåéóöÝñïõí óçìáíôéêÜ óôï ÷áñáêôÞñá ôçò ðüëçò, éäéáßôåñá ôïõò ÷åéìåñéíïýò ìÞíåò.

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Áò ÐåñðáôÞóïìå

Ôï Åíåôéêü ëéìÜíé ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ - The Venitian Port of Rethymno

Ïé áéþíåò ðïõ ðÝñáóáí, öÜíçêáí öéëéêïß óôçí ðüëç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Ùñßìáóáí ôçí üøç ôçò, ðñüóèåóáí óýã÷ñïíá óôïé÷åßá êáé äéáôÞñçóáí ôá ðáìðÜëáéá êôßñéá, áðïìåéíÜñéá ôçò óçìáíôéêÞò ôçò äéáäñïìÞò. Ôï óýíïëï, ëåéôïõñãéêü, ëéôü, åíôõðùóéÜæåé ôïí åðéóêÝðôç êáé ãïçôåýåé ôïí ôõ÷åñü ôáîéäåõôÞ. Óçìåßï áíáöïñÜò ôçò ðáëéÜò ðüëçò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, åßíáé ôï Åíåôéêü ëéìÜíé. Ôï Åíåôéêü ËéìÜíé ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, ôüðïò ðáíÝìïñöïò óÞìåñá, ãåìÜôï ìíÞìåò, éóôïñßá êáé ïìïñöéÜ, áðïôåëåß óçìáíôéêü ìÝñïò ôçò ðáëéÜò ðüëçò. ÐáëéÜ êáé êáéíïýñãéá åóôéáôüñéá, êáñáâÜêéá ðïõ ëéêíßæïíôáé óôï êýìá êáé áðÝíáíôé ï öÜñïò, äçìéïõñãïýí ìïíáäéêÞ ðáñáäåéóÝíéá åéêüíá, áíåðáíÜëçðôçò ïìïñöéÜò. Ôï ôìÞìá ôçò ðáëéÜ ðüëçò ðïõ âñßóêåôáé ðßóù áðü ôï ëéìÜíé, Ý÷åé ôá ðåñéóóüôåñá ðáëéÜ óðßôéá ìå åíåôéêÜ êáé ôïýñêéêá óôïé÷åßá. Èõñþìáôá óðéôéþí, áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÜ åíåôéêÜ óôïé÷åßá, ðáëéÜ áñ÷ïíôéêÜ óå êÜèå âÞìá. Ôïýôç ç ðüëç, ìÜæåøå ðÜíù ôçò ôá ÷íÜñéá ðïëéôéóìþí

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ðïõ ðÝñáóáí êáé Üöçóáí ðßóù ôç óöñáãßäá ôïõò. ÊÜèå âÞìá ìéá äéáöïñåôéêÞ åéêüíá ðïõ áíôéêáèéóôÜ ôçí ðñïçãïýìåíç. ¸íá õðÝñèõñï ìïíáäéêÞò áéóèçôéêÞò, Ýíá êéïíüêñáíï, ìéá åðéãñáöÞ. ¸íá áñ÷ïíôéêü, öïñÝáò ìéá éóôïñßáò ãåìÜôçò ôñáãéêüôçôá, Ýíá ìéíáñÝò âïõâüò ðïõ ó÷ßæåé ôïí ïõñáíü êáé äßðëá ç øáëìùäßá óôçí ðáëéÜ åêêëçóéÜ, áíáêáôþíïõí ðïëéóìïýò êáé âéþìáôá. Ðáñáäßðëá ï Þ÷ïò ôçò ëýñáò ðïõ íôýíåé ôïí áÝñá. ÓôåíÜ óïêÜêéá ãåìÜôá ìõñéóôéêÜ ðïõ îåðçäïýí áðü ôá ðáñÜèõñá, êáöáóùôÜ ðïõ êñÝìïíôáé ðÜíù áðü ôï êåöÜëé, ìéá óôåíÞ ëùñßäá ïõñáíïý øçëÜ êáé ï Þëéïò ðïõ ÷ñõóßæåé ôéò áéþíéåò ðÝôñåò. Óå ôïýôï ôïí ðáëéü êáìâÜ ìå ôçí ôåñÜóôéá éóôïñéêÞ ðïñåßá, Ýíáò ëáüò äçìéïõñãåß. ÓÝâåôáé ôéò ìíÞìåò ôïõ, ôéò ñßæåò, ôéò êáôáâïëÝò ôïõ. Óõìðëçñþíåé ìå óåâáóìü ôçí ðüëç ôïõ. Âáóéëéêüò êáé áñéóìáñß êáé äõüóìïò êáé öïõñíéóôü øùìß êáé ëéâÜíé êáé âñïíôüëõñá êáé Þ÷ïò ñáêïðüôçñïõ êáé ãÝëéï êáé ïìïñöéÜ. Åéêüíåò ðñùôüãíùñåò óå


Ôïýôç ç ðüëç ìéëåß, äéçãéÝôáé. ÌðëÝêåé ôï ìýèï ìå ôçí éóôïñßá. Êáé üëá ôïýôá ôá êÜíåé ôñáãïýäé, ìáíôéíÜäá, ñéæßôéêï. ¸ôóé ðïñåýåôáé ôï ÑÝèõìíï. Åðéäåéêíýåé ðåñÞöáíá ôç äéáäñïìÞ ôïõ. ÓÝâåôáé áðåñéüñéóôá ôá ìíçìåßá. Óõìðëçñþíåé ìå ôéò äéêÝò ôïõ ðéíåëéÝò êáé öôéÜ÷íåé ôïí ôüðï ôïõ üìïñöï, ðñïêëçôéêÜ æùíôáíü. Ç ðåñßïäïò ôçò Åíåôïêñáôßáò ðñïßêéóå ôï ÑÝèõìíï ìå ìéá óåéñÜ áðü óçìåñéíÜ áîéïèÝáôá.

ÊñÞíç Ñéìüíôé - Rimondi fountain Ôæáìß ÊáñÜ ÌïõóÜ ÐáóÜ - Kara Musa Pasha Mosque Ðïëéïý÷ïò É.Í. ôçò Ðáíáãßáò - Virgin Mary church

êÜèå âÞìá. Ðñï÷ùñåßò êáé ãßíåóáé Ýíá ìå ôï ÷þñï. Åäþ äå äéáâÜæåéò éóôïñßá. Åßóáé ìÝóá óôçí éóôïñßá. ÊÜèå êôßñéï ìéá åðï÷Þ. ÊÜèå ãùíéÜ áðïìåéíÜñé åíüò êáôáêôçôÞ. ÊÜèå óêÜëéóìá ìéá áíáöïñÜ, Ýíá äéá÷ñïíéêü ìÞíõìá, ìéá éóôïñßá.

Óôç äéáóôáýñùóç ôùí ïäþí Ðáëáéïëüãïõ êáé Áñêáäßïõ, âñßóêåôáé ç ÅíåôéêÞ Ëüôæéá ðïõ óÞìåñá áíáóôçëùìÝíç êáé ðáíÝìïñöç, óôåãÜæåé ôï ðùëçôÞñéï ôïõ ÅÏÔ. Ç Ëüôæéá ôçí ðåñßïäï ôçò Åíåôïêñáôßáò, Þôáí ôï êÝíôñï ôçò êïéíùíéêÞò æùÞò óôçí ðüëç. Ðïëý êïíôÜ óôç äéáóôáýñùóç Ðáëáéïëüãïõ êáé Èåóóáëïíßêçò âñßóêåôáé ç ÊñÞíç Ñéìüíôé. Ìéá áðü ôéò êïìøüôåñåò ìíçìåéáêÝò êñÞíåò, áíáãåííçóéáêÞò áéóèçôéêÞò. ¸÷åé ôÝóóåñéò êßïíåò ìå êïñéíèéáêÜ êéïíüêñáíá êáé ôñåéò êåöáëÝò ëåüíôùí, áðü ôéò ïðïßåò ôñÝ÷åé íåñü. ÊáôáóêåõÜóôçêå ôï 1626 êáé ðÞñå ôï üíïìÜ ôçò áðü ôï Ñéìüíôé, åíåôü ÑÝêôïñá ôçò ðüëçò ôïõ ïðïßïõ öÝñåé ôï Ýìâëçìá. ÌÝóá áðü óôåíÜ äñïìÜêéá áíåðáíÜëçðôçò áéóèçôéêÞò, ãåìÜôá Þ÷ïõò êáé ìõñùäéÝò, ÷áìüãåëá êáé æùÞ, áíçöïñßæåéò óôï ãßãáíôá ðïõ äåóðüæåé óôçí ðüëç, ôçí ðåñßöçìç ÖïñôÝôóá. Áêïëïõèåßò ôïí ðëáêüóôñùôï äñüìï. Êáé êáèþò áíôéêñßæåéò ìðñïóôÜ óïõ áðåßñá÷ôá ôá ðåôñüêôéóôá ôåé÷éÜ áéóèÜíåóáé ëßãïò êáé ðñüóêáéñïò. Óçêþíåéò ôá ìÜôéá êáé âëÝðåéò áäñÝò êáé áêìáßåò ôéò ëéèïäïìçìÝíåò ãñáììÝò ôïõ êÜóôñïõ. Êáé ðéï øçëÜ áêïßìçôïõò âéãëÜôïñåò ôïõò ðñïìá÷þíåò. ¸÷åéò ôçí áßóèçóç ðùò áðü åêåßíï ôï ýøïò èá

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Íáüò ÔåóóÜñùí Ìáñôýñùí Four Martyrs church

áêïýóåéò ôïí Þ÷ï ôçò óöáßñáò ðïõ èá óêßóåé ôùí áéþíùí ôç óéùðÞ. ÐåñíÜò áðü ôç ìáêñéÜ óôïÜ ôçò åéóüäïõ óêõöôüò êáé âïõâáìÝíïò áðü ôï âÜñïò ôùí áéþíùí. Ïóìßæåóáé ôïõò ðïôáìïýò éäñþôá, ôï áßìá êáé ôéò ÷éëéÜäåò ôùí ÷áìÝíùí æùþí. Âñßóêåóáé ðÜíù óôç öïñôÝôóá ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Ôá áãêïìá÷çôÜ ôùí áíèñþðùí ðïõ Ýêôéóáí ôïýôï ôï ãßãáíôá, äåí áêïýïíôáé ðéá. Ïýôå ïé êñáõãÝò ôùí ôñáõìáôéóìÝíùí. Ïýôå ïé ÷éëéÜäåò íåêñïß. Ôï áßìá Ý÷åé îåðëõèåß. ÐáéäéêÝò öùíÝò óêßæïõí ôïí áÝñá. ¹÷ïé ôçò ëýñáò áðü ôï èÝáôñï äßðëá. Ç åéêüíá ôçò èÜëáóóáò, ìáãåõôéêÞ, óõíáñðÜæåé ôï ìÜôé. Êáé êÜèå âñÜäõ, ôï çëéïâáóßëåìá âÜöåé ôá âïõíÜ ìå ôéò ìåëáã÷ïëéêÝò ôïõ áðï÷ñþóåéò. ÄåîéÜ êáé áñéóôåñÜ ç ðüëç, áãêáëéÜæåé ôï êÜóôñï ñéæùìÝíç óôçí ðëáãéÜ, ìå ôï ðñüóùðï óôç èÜëáóóá. Ôïýôï ôï ÊÜóôñï ìå ôçí ðüëç ôïõ, öéëéùìÝíïé,

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óå Ýíá áéþíéï óýíïëï ðïñåýïíôáé óôïõò áéþíåò. ¸íá åíéáßï óýíïëï ðïõ Ýíùóå ç ìïßñá. Óôçí åßóïäï ôïõ ÊÜóôñïõ, óôçí ðáëéÜ ôïýñêéêç öõëáêÞ, óôåãÜæåôáé óÞìåñá ôï áñ÷áéïëïãéêü ìïõóåßï ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Ôá áðïìåéíÜñéá ôçò ôïýñêéêçò êáôï÷Þò åßíáé óêïñðéóìÝíá óå üëç ôçí ðüëç. Êôßóìáôá ðïõ äéáôçñïýíôáé óå Üñéóôç êáôÜóôáóç êáé öáíåñþíïõí ôïõ ôüðïõ ôçí éóôïñéêÞ äéáäñïìÞ. Ôï ôæáìß ÍåñáôæÝ, åßíáé Ýíá áðü ôá ðéï ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêÜ äåßãìáôá ôçò ôïýñêéêçò áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞò óôçí ðüëç. ÓÞìá ôïõ ï ìéíáñÝò ìå ôá 133 óêáëïðÜôéá. Åäþ âñéóêüôáí áñ÷éêÜ ç åíåôéêÞ åêêëçóßá ôçò ÓÜíôá-Ìáñßá. ÓÞìåñá áíáóôçëùìÝíï, ÷ñçóéìïðïéåßôáé óáí ùäåßï êáé ÷þñïò óõíáõëéþí. Óôçí ïäü ÑáäáìÜíèõïò, ìðïñïýìå íá äïýìå ôï åíôõðùóéáêü ôïýñêéêï ÷áìÜì. ¸íá Üëëï åíôõðùóéáêü ôæáìß ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò åßíáé ôï ôæáìß ÊáñÜ ÌïõóÜ, óôï


íüôéï Üêñï ôçò ïäïý Áñêáäßïõ. Åäþ áñ÷éêÜ õðÞñ÷å åêêëçóßá öñáãêéóêáíéêÞ, üìùò ï ÊáñÜ ÌïõóÜ ÐáóÜò, äéïéêçôÞò ôùí ðñþôùí ôïõñêéêþí óôñáôåõìÜôùí ôç ìåôÝôñåøå óå ôæáìß. ÓÞìåñá, óôåãÜæåôáé ç åöïñåßá âõæáíôéíþí áñ÷áéïôÞôùí. Ç ðëáôåßá ôùí ÔåóóÜñùí Ìáñôýñùí, åßíáé áöéåñùìÝíç ìáæß ìå ôïí ïìþíõìï íáü óôïõò ôÝóóåñéò ìÜñôõñåò êáé óçìáôïäïôåß ôá üñéá ôçò ðáëéÜò ðüëçò. Åäþ âñßóêåôáé ç Porta Guora (ÌåãÜëç Ðüñôá), ç ìüíç áðü ôéò åéóüäïõò ôçò ðáëéÜò ðüëçò, ðïõ äéáôçñåßôáé. ÐÞñå ôï üíïìÜ ôçò áðü ôïí Giacomo Guora, ñÝêôïñá êáôÜ ôï 16ï áéþíá. Äßðëá âñßóêåôáé ôï ôæáìß ôçò ÌåãÜëçò Ðüñôáò, ðïõ êôßóôçêå ôá ðñþôá ÷ñüíéá ôçò Ôïõñêïêñáôßáò. ¹ôáí áöéåñùìÝíï óôç ÂáëéäÝ ÓïõëôÜíá, ôç ìçôÝñá ôïõ ÓïõëôÜíïõ êáé ãé’áõôü ïíïìÜóôçêå Ôæáìß ÂáëéäÝ ÓïõëôÜíá. Óôçí ðáëéÜ ðüëç, óôçí ïäü Íéêçöüñïõ ÖùêÜ óõíáíôïýìå ôï íáü ôçò Êõñßáò ôùí ÁããÝëùí. ÊôéóìÝíïò áðü ôïõò Åíåôïýò, Ýãéíå ôæáìß ôçí åðï÷Þ ôçò ôïõñêïêñáôßáò. ÌåôÜ ôçí áðåëåõèÝñùóç, Ýãéíå êáé ðÜëé ÷ñéóôéáíéêüò íáüò. Åêôüò áðü ôï Añ÷áéïëïãéêü Mïõóåßï, áîßæåé íá åðéóêåöèïýìå ôï Éóôïñéêü Ëáïãñáöéêü ìïõóåßï, óôçí ïäü Ì. ÂåíÜñ-

äïõ, Ýíá áíáêáéíéóìÝíï êôßñéï, áðü ôá ÷áñáêôçñéóôéêüôåñá äåßãìáôá ôçò áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞò ôïõ åßäïõò ôïõ. Éäéáßôåñï åíäéáöÝñïí ðáñïõóéÜæåé êáé ôï êÝíôñï Óýã÷ñïíçò ÅéêáóôéêÞò Äçìéïõñãßáò Ñåèýìíçò ôï ïðïßï öéëïîåíåß êõñßùò Ýñãá óýã÷ñïíùí êñçôéêþí æùãñÜöùí. Ï äçìïôéêüò êÞðïò, óôá óýíïñá ôçò ðáëéÜò ðüëçò ðñïóöÝñåé ôçí çñåìßá, ôç äñïóéÜ, ôçí îåêïýñáóç ðïõ ÷ñåéÜæåôáé ãéá ôç óõíÝ÷éóç ôïõ ïäïéðïñéêïý óôçí ðüëç. Ç èÜëáóóá, Ýðáéîå êáôáëõôéêü ñüëï óôï ÑÝèõìíï, óôçí éóôïñßá, ôç æùÞ ôùí êáôïßêùí ôïõ. ¸ãéíå ôï óôïé÷åßï ðïõ Ýíùóå ôïí ôüðï ìå ôçí õðüëïéðç ÅëëÜäá. Ðïõ âïÞèçóå óôçí áíÜðôõîç ôïõ åìðïñßïõ êáé ôç ìåôáöïñÜ ðëïýôïõ óôï ÑÝèõìíï. ¹ôáí ôï óôïé÷åßï ðïõ Ýöåñå ôïõò êáôáêôçôÝò êáé óõóóþñåõóå äåéíÜ óôïõò áíèñþðïõò. Ïé Åíåôïß ðñþôá, ïé Ôïýñêïé ìåôÜ, ïé Ãåñìáíïß ôåëåõôáßá, áðü ôç èÜëáóóá, Ýöåñáí ôç óêëáâéÜ, ôéò óöáãÝò êáé ôçí åñÞìùóç. Åðß áéþíåò, ç èÜëáóóá óìßëåøå ìå õðïìïíÞ êáé äçìéïýñãçóå ôéò õðÝñï÷åò ðáñáëßåò, ðïõ ï åðéóêÝðôçò áðïëáìâÜíåé óÞìåñá. ÔåñÜóôéåò ðáñáëßåò, Üëëåò ìéêñüôåñåò, ðáíÝìïñöåò, ìå ôá ìïíáäéêÜ ôïõò ÷ñþìáôá, óõíèÝôïõí åéêüíåò ìáãéêÝò. Ïé ðáñáëßåò ôïõ íïìïý, óå âïñÜ êáé íüôï, ðñïóöÝñïõí óôéãìÝò áðüëáõóçò, ìïíáäéêÞò. ×áñåßôå ôéò.

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Ðáëéü áñ÷ïíôéêü, ãåìÜôï öùò, ÷ñþìá êáé ôïðéêü ðïëéôéóìü. Óôïí Üíåôï åóùôåñéêü ÷��ñï ìå ôéò êáìÜñåò, óôçí áõëÞ ìå ôá áíáðáõôéêÜ ôñáðÝæéá êáé ôçí áñ÷ïíôéêÞ äéáêüóìçóç, áðÝíáíôé áðü ôï ëáïãñáöéêü ìïõóåßï, ï åðéóêÝðôçò áðïëáìâÜíåé ìéá ðïéêéëßá áðü ìåæÝäåò. Ï óåö äçìéïõñãåß áñéóôïõñãÞìáôá. Ôá õðÝñï÷á ðéÜôá ìå áãíü Ñåèåìíéþôéêï ëÜäé, ôï êáëü íôüðéï êñáóß, óõìðëçñþíïõí ôçí ïéêïãåíåéáêÞ öñïíôßäá. ÐáëéÜ Ðüëç ÔáâÝñíá - Ìåæåäïðùëåßï Åìì. ÂåñíÜñäïõ 31 Ôçë.: 28310 29218 Êéíçôü: 6974 711305

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An old Rethymnian noble house, full of light, colour and local civilization; In the comfortable indoor area, with the great architectural elements, the arches and the decoration, or in the court with the comfortable tables and the noble decoration, across the street from the folklore museum, visitors enjoy a unprecedented variety of mezes. Chef’s artistry creates masterpieces; The great dishes made with pure oil of Rethymnon and the good local wine are accompanied by the family service. Palia Poli Tavern - Snack Restaurant Emm. Vernardou 31 Tel.: +30 28310 29218 Mob.: +30 6074 711305


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ÐïëéôéóôéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò ÄÞìïõ Ñåèýìíçò

Ñåèåìíéþôéêï ÊáñíáâÜëé ÊÜèå ÷ñüíï, ôçí ðåñßïäï ôùí áðïêñéþí óôï ÑÝèõìíï, îåöáíôþíåé ôï Ñåèåìíéþôéêï ÊáñíáâÜëé. ÐÜíù áðü 12.000 êáñíáâáëéóôÝò ìå ðåñéóóüôåñá áðü 25 Üñìáôá êáé ðÜñá ðïëëïß åðéóêÝðôåò ðáñåëáýíïõí óôïõò êåíôñéêïýò äñüìïõò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ êáé ôçí ÊõñéáêÞ, çìÝñá ôçò ìåãÜëçò ðáñÝëáóçò, êáôáëÞãïõí óôçí ðáñáëßá üðïõ êáßãåôáé ï ÂáóéëéÜò ÊáñíÜâáëïò, åí ìÝóù ðõñïôå÷íçìÜôùí. ÊáôÜ ôçí äéÜñêåéá ôùí êáñíáâáëéêþí åêäçëþóåùí, ðñáãìáôïðïéåßôáé ôï ÊõíÞãé ôïõ êñõììÝíïõ Èçóáõñïý ãéá ìéêñïýò êáé ìåãÜëïõò, êáèþò åðßóçò êáé óåéñÜ Üëëùí ðïëéôéóôéêþí åêäçëþóåùí.

óôçí ðáñáëßá óôï ÂåíåôóéÜíéêï ëéìÜíé, ãéá íá êÜøïõí ôï ðñùôïìáãéÜôéêï óôåöÜíé ôïõò óôç öùôéÜ óôïí ÊëÞäïíá. Áêïëïõèïýí ìïõóéêï÷ïñåõôéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò ðïõ êÜèå ÷ñüíï ïñãáíþíåé ôï Ëýêåéï Åëëçíßäùí Ñåèýìíïõ.

Ãéá ðåñéóóüôåñåò ðëçñïöïñßåò: www.carnivalrethymno.com

Áíáãåííçóéáêü ÖåóôéâÜë (ìÝóá Éïõëßïõ, êÜèå ÷ñüíï). Ëüãù ôçò áêìÞò ðïëéôéóìïý ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, êáôÜ ôçí ðåñßïäï ôçò ÁíáãÝííçóçò, åäþ êáé 22 ÷ñüíéá ëáìâÜíåé ÷þñá óôç ðüëç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ ôï Áíáãåííçóéáêü ÖåóôéâÜë. ¸íáò áðü ôïõò ðéï óçìáíôéêïýò ðïëéôéóôéêïýò èåóìïýò. Ãéá ôïõò Ñåèõìíéþôåò áðïôåëåß Ýíáí áðü ôïõò âáóéêïýò Üîïíåò ðïëéôéóìïý, óå ôïðéêü åðßðåäï, áëëÜ êáé óå åðßðåäï ðïëéôéóìéêÞò åðéêïéíùíßáò ìå ôïí õðüëïéðï êüóìï.

ÃéïñôÞ ÊëÞäïíá - 24 Éïõíßïõ Óôéò 24 Éïõíßïõ, ôçí çìÝñá ôçò ãéïñôÞò ôçò ãÝííçóçò ôïõ Áã. ÉùÜííç ôïõ Ðñïäñüìïõ, ïé Ñåèåìíéþôåò ìáæåýïíôáé

Óôü÷ïò åßíáé ôï Áíáãåííçóéáêü ÖåóôéâÜë íá ëåéôïõñãÞóåé ùò êÝíôñï áíáãÝííçóçò êáé õðïóôÞñéîçò ôïõ ðïëéôéóìéêïý äéáëüãïõ ìåôáîý ôùí ëáþí ôïõ

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ÂïññÜ êáé ôïõ Íüôïõ, ôçò ÁíáôïëÞò êáé ôçò Äýóçò, êáèþò êáé ôçò åðéóôÞìçò êáé ôçò ôÝ÷íçò óôç Ìåóüãåéï, óôá ÂáëêÜíéá êáé óôçí Åõñþðç. Ãéá ðåñéóóüôåñåò ðëçñïöïñßåò: www.rfr.gr ÃéïñôÞ Êñáóéïý & Ðáñáäïóéáêþí ðñïúüíôùí (ÌÜéïò Þ Éïýíéïò) O ÄÞìïò Ñåèýìíïõ áíáâéþíåé ôïí ìáêñïâéüôåñï ðïëéôéóôéêü èåóìü ôïõ, ôç «ÃéïñôÞ Êñçôéêïý Êñáóéïý êáé Ôïðéêþí Ðáñáäïóéáêþí Ðñïúüíôùí». Óôçí ãéïñôÞ áõôÞ ãßíåôáé ðñïâïëÞ êáé ðñïþèçóç åðþíõìùí âñáâåõìÝíùí êñçôéêþí ôõðïðïéçìÝíùí ðñïúüíôùí, ìå ðñùôáãùíéóôÞ ôï êñáóß. Åêôüò áðü ôçí Ýêèåóç åðþíõìùí êñçôéêþí ðñïúüíôùí, ïé ðáñáãùãïß ïñãáíþíïõí óåìéíÜñéá ïéíïãíùóßáò êáé ãåõóéãíùóßáò, ôá ïðïßá åðéôñÝðïõí óôïõò åðéóêÝðôåò íá åíçìåñùèïýí áðü ôïõò

åéäéêïýò ãéá ôïí ôñüðï ðáñáóêåõÞò ôùí äéáôéèÝìåíùí ðñïúüíôùí, ôéò éäéüôçôÝò ôïõò êáé ôçí õøçëÞ ôïõò ðïéüôçôá. ÐáñÜëëçëá, ãßíïíôáé ðïëëÝò ðïëéôéóôéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò, óôéò ïðïßåò óõììåôÝ÷ïõí åðþíõìïé êñÞôåò êáëëéôÝ÷íåò, êáëëéôå÷íéêÜ ó÷Þìáôá êáé óõãêñïôÞìáôá ôïõ ÄÞìïõ Ñåèýìíïõ êáé äéáêåêñéìÝíïé ïìéëçôÝò. Ãéá ðåñéóóüôåñåò ðëçñïöïñßåò: www.rethymno.gr ÇìÝñá Ôïõñéóìïý - 27 Óåðôåìâñßïõ ÊÜèå ÷ñüíï, óôï ðëáßóéï ôçò Ðáãêüóìéáò ÇìÝñáò Ôïõñéóìïý, áðü ôïí ÄÞìï Ñåèýìíçò âñáâåýïíôáé ïé êáëýôåñïé «ößëïé» ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá åðáíáëáìâáíüìåíïõò åðéóêÝðôåò ðïõ åðéëÝãïõí ôï ÑÝèõìíï ãéá ðÜñá ðïëëÜ ÷ñüíéá. ÅðéðëÝïí, áðü ôçí Íïìáñ÷ßá Ñåèýìíçò, ðñáãìáôïðïéåßôáé áðïíïìÞ âñáâåßùí óôïõò êáèáñüôåñïõò ðáñáäïóéáêïýò ïéêéóìïýò ôïõ íïìïý.

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ÖïñôÝôóá

‘Áðïøç ôçò ÖïñôÝôóáò - Fortezza view

Ôïýôïò ï âñÜ÷ïò, ôçò ÖïñôÝôóáò, áðü ôá áñ÷áßá ÷ñüíéá Þôáí ôüðïò ëáôñåßáò. Ïé êÜôïéêïé ôçò ðüëçò, åß÷áí êôéóìÝíï óôï ìÝñïò áõôü, íáü áöéåñùìÝíï óôçí ÁñôÝìéäá ðïõ ïíïìáæüôáí ÑïêêÝá, äçëáäÞ èåÜ ôïõ ÂñÜ÷ïõ. Óôá äÝêá ÷ñüíéá êáôáóêåõÞò ôçò ÖïñôÝôóáò, ìå üëåò ôéò ôñïðïðïéÞóåéò, ôéò åñãáóßåò ðïõ êñßèçêáí áíáãêáßåò, åñãÜóôçêáí 107.142 êÜôïéêïé óå áíáãêáóôéêÞ åñãáóßá êáé 40.205 æþá åðéôáãìÝíá. Ôçí ðñþôç ðÝôñá óôá èåìÝëéá ôïõ ÊÜóôñïõ, ôïðïèÝôçóå ï ÂåíåôóéÜíïò Óýìâïõëïò Ìïëßí óôéò 13 Óåðôåìâñßïõ 1573. Ç áêìÜæïõóá ïéêïíïìéêÜ êáé ðíåõìáôéêÜ ðïëéôåßá, Þôáí êáé ðñéí ôï ÷ôßóéìï ôçò ÖïñôÝôóáò ï÷õñùìÝíç. Ôá áñ÷éêÜ ôçò ôåß÷ç îåêéíïýóáí áðü ôç Óï÷þñá êáé öôÜíáíå ìÝ÷ñé ôï âåíåôóéÜíéêï ëéìÜíé, ðïõ äéáôçñåßôáé ôï ßäéï ìÝ÷ñé óÞìåñá. Áñãüôåñá ïéêïäïìÞèçêå êáé äåýôåñï ôåß÷ïò ðïõ Üñ÷éæå áðü ôçí ðëáôåßá Áãíþóôïõ Óôñáôéþôç êáé êáôÝëçãå óôá ãêñåìíÜ ôçò íïôéïäõôéêÞò ðëåõñÜò ôïõ âñÜ÷ïõ. ¹ôáí äçëáäÞ üëï ôï ÑÝ-

èåìíïò, êëåéóìÝíï ìÝóá óå ôåß÷ç. Åêôüò üìùò ðïõ ôá ôåß÷ç ôïýôá áðïäåß÷ôçêáí áíßêáíá íá ôçí ðñïóôáôÝøïõí áðü ôéò áëëåðÜëëçëåò åðéäñïìÝò ôùí ÊïõñóÜñùí êáé ôç èåïìçíßá ôùí âáñâÜñùí Áóéáôþí, åß÷å êáé ôéò ðáíÝìïñöåò, øéëÜììïõäåò ðáñáëßåò ðïõ îåôõëßãïíôáí óå áôÝëåéùôç ÷ñõóÞ êïñäÝëá áðü ôï ðáíÝìïñöï ìéêñü ëéìÜíé, ìÝ÷ñé ðÝñá ôéò Ìõëïðïôáìßôéêåò ðáñáëßåò. Ãéá üëïõò ôïýôïõò ôïõò ëüãïõò, áðïöáóßóôçêå ç êáôáóêåõÞ ôçò ÖïñôÝôóáò. Ïé êÜôïéêïé ôïõ ÑåèÝìíïõò äïýëåøáí åðß 10 ÷ñüíéá ãéá ôçí ïëïêëÞñùóç ôïõ öñïõñßïõ. ÁããáñåìÝíïé, Ý÷õóáí áßìá êáé éäñþôá êáé ðñüóöåñáí áôÝëåéùôïõò öüñïõò. Êáé óáí ôÝëåøáí ôá Ýñãá êáé äçìéïõñãÞèçêå Ýíá ó÷åäüí áêáôÜâëçôï êÜóôñï êáé ìéá ðëåéÜäá äçìïóßùí êôéñßùí, ðåéóìáôéêÜ áñíÞèçêáí íá åãêáôáëåßøïõí ôçí áíáóöÜëåéá ôïõ ðõñðïëçìÝíïõ ÑåèÝìíïõò êáé íá êïõñíéÜóïõí óôç óéãïõñéÜ ôçò ï÷õñùìÝíçò ÖïñôÝôóáò. ¼ìùò ïýôå êáé ïé Ëáôßíïé áíÝâçêáí. Ïé

ÑÝèõìíï 65


Ôï èÝáôñï Åñùößëç óôç ÖïñôÝôóá - Erofili theater in the Fortezza

÷þñïé óôñáôùíéóìïý ôçò öñïõñÜò, ïé áðïèÞêåò, ôï óôñáôéùôéêü íïóïêïìåßï, ç åêêëçóßá, ôï êïëïóóéáßï äéïéêçôÞñéï ìå 19 ðüñôåò, ôá 81 ðáñÜèõñá êáé ôá 1382 âÞìáôá ôçò êáëõììÝíçò ìå ìüëõâäï óêåðÞò, êáèþò êáé ôá õðüëïéðá äçìüóéá êôßñéá, äåí Üöçóáí åëåýèåñï ÷þñï ãéá íá êôéóôïýí êáôïéêßåò ðïëéôþí. Ôï ÊÜóôñï åß÷å ôÝóóåñéò ðñïìá÷þíåò ðïõ ïíïìÜæïíôáí ôïõ Áãßïõ ËïõêÜ, ôçò Ðáíáãßáò, ôïõ ÐñïöÞôç Çëßá êáé ôïõ

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ÓùôÞñá. ¸íá êáâáëéÝñï, Ðýñãï, êáé ãùíéáêÝò êïñôßíåò, äçëáäÞ ìåóïðýñãéá. Ç ðåñéöÝñåéá ôïõ áðü ôï ìÝñïò ôçò óôåñéÜò êáé ôçò èÜëáóóáò Þôáí 764 âÞìáôá êáé åß÷å ôñéÜíôá óõíïëéêÜ ðõñïâüëá. Ïé äåîáìåíÝò íåñïý, óêáììÝíåò óôá óðëÜ÷íá ôïõ âñÜ÷ïõ, Þôáí áðñüóâëçôåò áðü êÜèå Ýíôáóçò êáé äéÜñêåéáò êáíïíéïâïëéóìü êáé ðñïêáëïýí áêüìç êáé óÞìåñá ôï èáõìáóìü, ãéá ôçí åîáßñåôç ôå÷íéêÞ ôïõò áñôéüôçôá.


Áñ÷áéïëïãéêü Ìïõóåßï Ñåèýìíïõ Ôï Áñ÷áéïëïãéêü Ìïõóåßï Ñåèýìíçò ðïõ éäñýèçêå ôï 1887 áðü ôï öéëåêðáéäåõôéêü óýëëïãï Ñåèýìíçò, óôåãÜæåôáé óÞìåñá óôï ðåíôáãùíéêü ï÷õñü, ìðñïóôÜ áêñéâþò áðü ôçí êåíôñéêÞ/áíáôïëéêÞ ðýëç ôçò ÖïñôÝôóáò. Ôï êôÞñéï åßíáé Ýíá áðü ôá áìõíôéêÜ Ýñãá ôùí Ôïýñêùí. Êôßóôçêå ìå óêïðü ôçí áìõíôéêÞ êÜëõøç ôçò êåíôñéêÞò åéóüäïõ ôïõ öñïõñßïõ. Óôçí Ýêèåóç ôïõ ìïõóåßïõ, üðïõ ôá áñ÷áéïëïãéêÜ åõñÞìáôá åßíáé ôïðïèåôçìÝíá êáôÜ áñ÷áéïëïãéêÞ óåéñÜ, ðåñéëáìâÜíïíôáé ïé ðáñáêÜôù óõëëïãÝò: 1. ÕóôåñïíåïëéèéêÜ êáé ðñùôïìéíùéêÜ åõñÞìáôá, êõñßùò áããåßá, åñãáëåßá êáé åéäþëéá áðü ôá óðÞëáéá Ãåñáíßïõ êáé Ìåëéäïíßïõ,

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2. Áíôéêåßìåíá ìåóïìéíùéêÞò åðï÷Þò áðü ôïõò áñ÷áéïëïãéêïýò ÷þñïõò Ìïíáóôçñáêßïõ, Áðïäïýëïõ êáé Âñýóéíá. ÅíôõðùóéáêÜ óôï óýíïëï, áõôü åßíáé ôï óýíïëï ôùí óöñáãéóìÜôùí áðü ôï ÌïíáóôçñÜêé êáèþò êáé ôï ïìïßùìá ïéêßóêïõ áðü ôïí ßäéï ÷þñï, 3. ÅõñÞìáôá õóôåñïìéíùéêÞò åðï÷Þò, êõñßùò áðü ôï íåêñïôáöåßï ôùí ÁñìÝíùí áëëÜ êáé áðü Üëëåò ðåñéï÷Ýò üðùò ÌáóôáìðÜ, ÓôáõñùìÝíï, Ðáãêáëï÷þñé, Óýâñéôï. Óôá áíôéêåßìåíá ðåñéëáìâÜíïíôáé ÷Üëêéíá åñãáëåßá êáé üðëá, Ýíá åíôõðùóéáêü ïäïíôüöñáêôï êñÜíïò, ðëïýóéá êåñáìéêÞ, êïóìÞìáôá êáé óöñáãéäüëéèïé. Åðßóçò ðÞëéíá åéäþëéá, áíÜìåóá óôá ïðïßá ç ðåñßöçìç èåÜ ìå õøùìÝíá ÷Ýñéá áðü ôï Ðáãêáëï÷þñé. ÅíôõðùóéáêÝò åßíáé êáé ïé ðÞëéíåò ëÜñíáêåò ìå ôï öõôéêü êáé ãåùìåôñéêü äéÜêïóìï, ðïõ ðñïÝñ÷ïíôáé êõñßùò áðü ôï íåêñïôáöåßï ôùí ÁñìÝíùí. 4. ÅõñÞìáôá ãåùìåôñéêþí, áñ÷áúêþí ÷ñüíùí êõñßùò áðü ôïõò áñ÷áéïëïãéêïýò ÷þñïõò Áîïý êáé Åëåýèåñíáò. 5. Áíôéêåßìåíá êëáóéêÞò, åëëçíéóôéêÞò êáé ñùìáúêÞò åðï÷Þò êõñßùò áðü ôéò ðåñéï÷Ýò ÓôáõñùìÝíïõ êáé Áñãõñïýðïëçò. Óôï óýíïëï áõôü, îå÷ùñßæïõí ïé ñùìáúêïé ëý÷íïé ìå ðáñáóôÜóåéò, ôá ÷ñõóÜ êïóìÞìáôá áðü ôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ÓôáõñùìÝíïõ êáé ôá õÜëéíá áããåßá åëëçíéóôéêÞò êáé ñùìáúêÞò åðï÷Þò. 6. ÓõëëïãÞ íïìéóìÜôùí. 7. Åéäþëéá áðü ôï Ìåëéäüíé êáé ôçí Áîü êáé Üãíùóôçò ðñïÝëåõóçò áããåßá êëáóéêÞò êáé åëëçíéóôéêÞò åðï÷Þò. 8. ÅðéãñáöÝò áðü ôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ôçò Åëåýèåñíáò,

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9. ÓõëëïãÞ ãëõðôþí áðü ôéò ðåñéï÷Ýò ÓôáõñùìÝíïõ, Åëåýèåñíáò, Áñãõñïýðïëçò.


Ìïõóåßï Óýã÷ñïíçò ÔÝ÷íçò ÊñÞôçò ÐéíáêïèÞêç “Ë. ÊáíáêÜêç” Ç ÄçìïôéêÞ ÐéíáêïèÞêç “Ë.ÊáíáêÜêçò” éäñýèçêå ôï 1992. Áðü ôçí áñ÷Þ óôåãÜóôçêå óå Ýíá åíåôéêü êôßñéï, óôçí êáñäéÜ ôçò ðáëéÜò éóôïñéêÞò ðüëçò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, êÜôù áðü ôç ÖïñôÝôóá êáé ôï Áñ÷áéïëïãéêü Ìïõóåßï.

Ñåèýìíçò Ý÷åé áíáðôýîåé Ýíôïíç äñÜóç óôïí ôïìÝá ôùí ðåñéïäéêþí åêèÝóåùí ôïðéêïý, åèíéêïý áëëÜ êáé äéåèíïýò åíäéáöÝñïíôïò óå óõíåñãáóßá ìå ðïëëïýò öïñåßò óôçí ÅëëÜäá êáé ôï åîùôåñéêü.

Óôç Ìüíéìç ÓõëëïãÞ ôçò, äéáèÝôåé Ýñãá ôïõ ËåõôÝñç ÊáíáêÜêé (ëÜäéá, ó÷Ýäéá, áêïõáñÝëåò) êáëýðôïíôáò áíôéðñïóùðåõôéêÜ üëç ôç äéáäñïìÞ ôçò ��ïõëåéÜò ôïõ êáé Ýñãá óýã÷ñïíùí ÅëëÞíùí êáëëéôå÷íþí êáëýðôïíôáò Ýíá åõñý öÜóìá ôçò óýã÷ñïíçò åëëçíéêÞò åéêáóôéêÞò ðñáãìáôéêüôçôáò áðü ôï 1950 ùò óÞìåñá. Ôï 1995, ôï ÑÝèõìíï åíôÜ÷èçêå óôï Åèíéêü Ðïëéôéóôéêü Äßêôõï Ðüëåùí ìå óõíÝðåéá ôçí ßäñõóç ôïõ ÊÝíôñïõ Óýã÷ñïíçò ÅéêáóôéêÞò Äçìéïõñãßáò ðïõ ðñïóáíáôüëéóå ôéò äñáóôçñéüôçôåò ôçò ÐéíáêïèÞêçò óôç óýã÷ñïíç ôÝ÷íç.

¼ëåò ïé äéïñãáíþóåéò ðëáéóéþíïíôáé áðü ðáñÜëëçëåò åêäçëþóåéò (äéáëÝîåéò, åêðáéäåõôéêÜ ðñïãñÜììáôá, ïìéëßåò, óåìéíÜñéá ê.á.). Ç åêèåóéáêÞ äñáóôçñéüôçôá ôïõ Ê.Ó.Å.Ä - ÄçìïôéêÞ ÐéíáêïèÞêç “Ë. ÊáíáêÜêçò” ïëïêëçñþíåôáé ìå ôçí Ýêäïóç êáôáëüãùí êáé Üëëùí åíôýðùí åêðáéäåõôéêïý Þ åíçìåñùôéêïý ÷áñáêôÞñá. ÐáñÜëëçëá áðü ôï 1995 ìå åõèýíç ôïõ Ê.Ó.Å.Ä., ëåéôïõñãïýí åéêáóôéêÜ åñãáóôÞñéá.

Ôï ÊÝíôñï Óýã÷ñïíçò ÅéêáóôéêÞò Äçìéïõñãßáò

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Åêêëçóéáóôéêü Ìïõóåßï Ìçôñïðïëéôéêïý Íáïý Ñåèýìíïõ Éäñýèçêå ôï 1994 êáé âñßóêåôáé óôçí Ðëáôåßá Ìçôñïðüëåùò. ÐåñéëáìâÜíåé åêêëçóéáóôéêÜ êåéìÞëéá áðü ôï 1816 Ýùò óÞìåñá, áíÜìåóá óôá ïðïßá åêêëçóéáóôéêÜ óêåýç, åéêüíåò, êáìðÜíåò êáèþò êáé ôï ñïëüé ôïõ êùäùíïóôáóßïõ ðïõ âñßóêïíôáí óå ëåéôïõñãßá áðü ôï 1894 Ýùò êáé ôï 1986.

Áíôéêåßìåíá ëáôñåßáò, Üìöéá, éåñÜ ìïíáäéêÞò áéóèçôéêÞò êáé ôÝ÷íçò, åéêüíåò óðÜíéåò, ðáìðÜëáéåò. ÁíåðáíÜëçðôïò ðëïýôïò ðïõ åíôõðùóéÜæåé ôïí åðéóêÝðôç. Objects of worship, vestments, of unique aesthetics and rare, old icons. Unprecedented wealth that impresses the visitor.

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ÄÉÅÕÈÕÍÓÇ: Ïäüò ÔïìðÜæç, Ýíáíôé Ìçôñïðïëéôéêïý Íáïý Ñåèýìíïõ. ÙÑÅÓ ËÅÉÔÏÕÑÃÉÁÓ: ÄåõôÝñá Ýùò ÓÜââáôï 10:00 - 13:00. ÅÉÓÏÄÏÓ: Åëåýèåñç. ÔÇË. ÅÐÉÊÏÉÍÙÍÉÁÓ: 28310 22731


ÂéâëéïèÞêç Ñåèýìíçò Ôï ÑÝèõìíï Ý÷åé ìéá ðáñÜäïóç óôá ãñÜììáôá, ç ïðïßá äéáóþæåôáé ìÝ÷ñé óÞìåñá ìå ôç öñÜóç “ïé Ñåèåìíéþôåò ãéá ôá ãñÜììáôá” Þ ìå ôï ðñïóùíýìéï “ðüëç ôùí ãñáììÜôùí”. Ç ðáñÜäïóç áõôÞ âñßóêåé ôçí áéôéïëïãéêÞ ôçò âÜóç óôçí ðåñßïäï ôçò Âåíåôïêñáôßáò, ïðüôå, ðñÜãìáôé, õðÞñîå óôï ÑÝèõìíï ìåãÜëç Üíèéóç óôá ãñÜììáôá êáé ôéò ôÝ÷íåò. Ç ÐíåõìáôéêÞ Åóôßá Ñåèýìíçò óõóôÜèçêå ìå áðïêëåéóôéêü óêïðü ôç äçìéïõñãßá âéâëéïèÞêçò óôï ÑÝèõìíï. Ç âéâëéïèÞêç óôåãÜóôçêå ó’ Ýíá äùìÜôéï ôïõ åñåéðùìÝíïõ êôéñßïõ ôïõ ðáëáéïý ðáñèåíáãùãåßïõ, ðïõ åðéóêåõÜóôçêå ãéá ôï óêïðü áõôü, äçëáäÞ óôï ßäéï êôßñéï ðïõ óôåãÜæåôáé ìÝ÷ñé óÞìåñá ç ÂéâëéïèÞêç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. ÐáñÜëëçëá, Ýãéíáí åêêëÞóåéò áðü ôïí ôïðéêü Ôýðï ãéá ðñïóöïñÜ âéâëßùí êáé óôÜëèçêáí äåêÜäåò åðéóôïëÝò óå éäéþôåò êáé ïñãáíéóìïýò. Ç áíôáðüêñéóç ôïõ êïéíïý õðÞñîå óõãêéíçôéêÞ êáé åß÷å óáí áðïôÝëåóìá íá áñ÷ßóåé ç ëåéôïõñãßá ôçò âéâëéïèÞêçò ìå Ýíáí éêáíïðïéçôéêü áñéèìü âéâëßùí. Áðü ôï 1953 ìÝ÷ñé ôï 1966, ç Äçìüóéá ÂéâëéïèÞêç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ ëåéôïýñãçóå êÜôù áðü ðïëý äýóêïëåò óõíèÞêåò, ìå Ýíáí ìüíï õðÜëëçëï, ôïí ÌÜñêï ÃéïõìðÜêç, ðïõ êõñéïëåêôéêÜ áöéÝñùóå ôç æùÞ ôïõ óôçí ðñüïäï êáé ôçí áíÜðôõîÞ ôçò, åðß ôñéÜíôá óõíå÷Þ ÷ñüíéá ìÝ÷ñé ôïí ðñüùñï èÜíáôü ôïõ, ôï 1976. Ôï 1972 ïñßóôçêå ùò Êå-

íôñéêÞ êáé åîïðëßóôçêå ìå äýï áõôïêßíçôá (êéíçôÝò âéâëéïèÞêåò), ôá ïðïßá áðü ôüôå ìÝ÷ñé êáé óÞìåñá, öÝñíïõí ôï âéâëßï áêüìç êáé óôá ðéï áðüìáêñá êáé áðïìïíùìÝíá ÷ùñéÜ ôçò ÊñÞôçò. Óôá åîÞíôá êáé ðëÝïí ÷ñüíéá ôçò ëåéôïõñãßáò ôçò, ç Äçìüóéá ÂéâëéïèÞêç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ ãíþñéóå ìåãÜëç áíÜðôõîç. ÓÞìåñá ïé óõëëïãÝò ôçò öôÜíïõí ôéò 150.000 ôüìïõò âéâëßùí, óôéò ïðïßåò ðñÝðåé íá ðñïóôåèïýí ðåñß ôïõò 10.000 ôüìïõò ðåñéïäéêþí, êáèþò êáé Ýíá ðëïýóéï áñ÷åßï ôïðéêþí êáé áèçíáúêþí åöçìåñßäùí. Åîõðçñåôåß êÜèå ÷ñüíï ðåñßðïõ 30.000 ÷ñÞóôåò, åíþ ôï äáíåéóôéêü ôçò ôìÞìá, ðïõ áñéèìåß 10.000 åíåñãÜ ìÝëç, ðñáãìáôïðïéåß ðÜíù áðü 27.000 äáíåéóìïýò ôï ÷ñüíï. Ùò ãåíéêÞ âéâëéïèÞêç, áðåõèýíåôáé óôï óýíïëï ôïõ ðëçèõóìïý - Üëëùóôå áõôü öáßíåôáé êáé áðü ôç óýíèåóç ôïõ êïéíïý ðïõ ôçí ÷ñçóéìïðïéåß. Áíáóôáëôéêü óôïé÷åßï óôçí ðáñáðÝñá åîÝëéîç ôçò âéâëéïèÞêçò, åßíáé ç Ýëëåéøç êáôÜëëçëçò óôÝãçò. Ôï êôßñéï ðïõ ôç óôåãÜæåé åßíáé áêáôÜëëçëï ëüãù ðáëáéüôçôáò, áëëÜ êáé áðïëýôùò áíåðáñêÝò áðü ôçí Üðïøç ôùí ÷þñùí. Ðïëý÷ñïíåò ðñïóðÜèåéåò åðßëõóçò ôïõ ðñïâëÞìáôïò, öáßíåôáé íá åõäïêéìïýí áöïý Þäç åêðïíïýíôáé ïé ìåëÝôåò ãéá ôçí áíÝãåñóç íÝïõ êôéñßïõ.

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ÓïöÜ äéáêïóìçìÝíï, ìå ëéôüôçôá ðïõ óõíáñðÜæåé, ìå ôï öùò íá ðáßæåé ðáíÝîõðíá óôïõò áíáêáéíéóìÝíïõò ôïß÷ïõò ôïõ êôßóìáôïò ðïõ êïõâáëÜåé ôá óôïé÷åßá ôçò ðáëéÜò ñåèõìíéþôéêçò ðüëçò, ðñïóêáëåß ôïõò åðéóêÝðôåò ôïõ êáé ôïõò öéëåýåé ìå ãåýóåéò ðáñáäïóéáêÝò, öôéáãìÝíåò ìå ôïõ óåö ôï ìåñÜêé. Ôï êïôüðïõëï Ìåóüãåéïò, ôéò ðåñßöçìåò ðïéêéëßåò êñåáôéêþí, ôá èáëáóóéíÜ ìå ôïí øáñÜäéêï ôñüðï. Ç ìïõóéêÞ ðïõ íôýíåé ôï ÷þñï, ôï íôüðéï êñáóß ÷ýìá, ç ñáêÞ, ïé ó÷ïëáóôéêÜ åðéëåãìÝíåò ðñþôåò ýëåò, ôï áíèñþðéíï ÷áìüãåëï, åíôõðùóéÜæïõí. ×þñïò êáé ãåýóåéò óå áðüëõôç áñìïíßá óáò óõíåðáßñíïõí. Êáëþò íá ïñßóåôå. ÓõìðëçãÜäåò Ìïõóéêü Ìåæåäïðùëåßï ÂåñíÜäïõ 25 - ÐáëéÜ Ðüëç Ñåèýìíïõ Ôçë.: 6942 061663 In a wisely decorated place with exciting simplicity and with the light making great games on the restored walls of the building that bears the elements of the old town of Rethymnon, Sympligades welcomes its visitors and offers to the traditional tastes made with the love of the chef; Mediterranean chicken, great mix grills, seafood made with the traditional way that fishermen used; The music that dresses the place, the local bulk wine, raki, the diligently selected raw materials and the human smile impress. Place and tastes in absolute harmony excite you. You are all welcome here.

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Sympligades Music Tavern 25, Vernadou Str. - Old Town of Rethymnon Tel.: 6942 061663


Óôçí êáñäéÜ ôçò ðáëéÜò ðüëçò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, óáò ðñïóìÝíåé «Ï ÂáóóÜëïò». Ç ðáñáäïóéáêÞ ÔáâÝñíá, ìå ôçí ðïëý÷ñïíç ðåßñá êáé ðïéüôçôá. Åäþ êõñéáñ÷ïýí ïé ãåýóåéò. ¼ëá ôá öáãçôÜ ôçò ðáñáäïóéáêÞò äéáôñïöÞò, ðïõ öôéÜ÷íïíôáé ìå áãíü åëáéüëáäï. ÐáìðÜëáéåò óõíôáãÝò ðïõ äéáôçñÞèçêáí ìå åõëÜâåéá. ÌåãÜëç ðïéêéëßá áðü ìåæÝäåò, ïëüöñåóêï øÜñé, øçôü ôçò þñáò. Óõìðëçñþóôå ìå êáëü ÷ýìá êñáóß, óõíäõÜóôå ôç ãåýóç ôïõ êëÝöôéêïõ ìå ôï êáëü íôüðéï êüêêéíï, áöåèåßôå óôçí ïéêïãåíåéáêÞ ðåñéðïßçóç êáé áðïëáýóôå ôéò ãåýóåéò, ôï ÷þñï êáé ôïõò áíèñþðïõò ôïõ. ÂáóóÜëïò ÔáâÝñíá Åðéìåíßäïõ 6, ÐáëéÜ ðüëç Ñåèýìíïõ Ôçë.: 28310 24577 “Vassalos” is waiting for you in the heart of the old town of Rethymnon; The traditional Tavern with the long experience and quality. Here, tastes are ruling; All the dishes are the traditional diet made of pure olive oil; Very old recipes that were saved with devotion; A great variety of mezes, very fresh fish and grilled meat. Accompany them with good bulk wine, combine the taste of kleftiko with good local red wine, let yourself free to enjoy family care and tastes, its place and men. Vassalos Tavern 6, Epimenidou str., Old Town of Rethymnon Tel. +30 28310 24577

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Ôï Êñçôéêü Ìá÷áßñé ÖùôéÜ, áìüíé, áôóÜëé, óöõñß, ðÝíóåò ìå ìáêñýò âñá÷ßïíåò êáé ç äåîéïôå÷íßá ôïõ ìá÷áéñïðïéïý åßíáé ôá áðáñáßôçôá óôïé÷åßá, ãéá ôçí êáôáóêåõÞ ôïõ Êñçôéêïý ìá÷áéñéïý. Ç áôóÜëéíç ëåðßäá ôïõ åßíáé ãåñïäåìÝíç êé Ý÷åé ìßá ìüíï êüøç, åíþ ç “ñÜ÷ç” ôïõ ìá÷áéñéïý, åßíáé åðßðåäç, éó÷õñïðïéçìÝíç ðñïò ôç âÜóç ôçò êáé ëåðôáßíåé óôáäéáêÜ üóï ðëçóéÜæåé ðñïò ôçí Üêñç ãéá íá êáôáëÞîåé óå ìßá ïîýôáôç áé÷ìÞ. Ç ëáâÞ ôïõ Êñçôéêïý ìá÷áéñéïý ïíïìÜæåôáé “ìáíßêá”. Óôïí êëáóéêü Êñçôéêü ôýðï, ôï ôåëåßùìá ôçò ëáâÞò ó÷çìáôßæåé “V”. Ç éäéüìïñöç áõôÞ ëáâÞ åßíáé êáôáóêåõáóìÝíç ðÜíôïôå áðü æùéêÞ ýëç, êÝñáôï Þ êüêáëï, åíþ óôá ðïëõôåëÝóôåñá áðü ôá ÊñçôéêÜ ìá÷áßñéá åßíáé êáôáóêåõáóìÝíç áðü åëåöáíôüäïíôï. Ôá ìá÷áßñéá ìå ôéò óêïõñü÷ñùìåò êåñÜôéíåò ëáâÝò ïíïìÜæïíôáé “ìáõñïìÜíéêá”. ÊÜèå Ýíá êüêáëï Þ êÝñáôï áñêåß ãéá ìßá ìüíï ëáâÞ. Ôï ìáõñïìÜíéêï ìá÷áßñé áðïôåëåß ãéá ôïí êñçôéêü, êáëü óçìÜäé ðïõ ðñïóôáôåýåé áðü ôï êáêü. ÌåãÜëç áéóèçôéêÞ áîßá ðáñïõóéÜæïõí ôá áñãõñÜ “öïõêÜñéá”, ïé èÞêåò ôùí “áóçìùôþí” ìá÷áéñéþí. Ôá áíôéêåßìåíá áõôÜ óõãêåíôñþíïõí åðÜíù ôïõò ôç îå-

÷ùñéóôÞ áñôéüôçôá ôçò ôÝ÷íçò ôùí Êñçôéêþí áñãõñï÷üùí. Ôï êñçôéêü ìá÷áßñé êáôáëáìâÜíåé óçìáíôéêü êïììÜôé ôçò êñçôéêÞò ëáúêÞò ðáñÜäïóçò. ¹ôáí áðáñáßôçôï óõìðëÞñùìá ôçò ðïëåìéêÞò åîÜñôçóçò ôïõ Êñçôéêïý óôï Ìáêåäïíéêü Áãþíá, óôïõò âáëêáíéêïýò ðïëÝìïõò, óôç ìéêñáóéáôéêÞ åêóôñáôåßá. Áêüìá êáé óôï Äåýôåñï Ðáãêüóìéï Ðüëåìï, ïé êñçôéêïß áíôÜñôåò åß÷áí ðÜíôá ìáæß ôïõò ôï ðáñáäïóéáêü ôïõò ìá÷áßñé, óýìâïëï ôçò êñçôéêÞò áíôñåéïóýíçò êáé ôïõ ðíåýìáôïò áíôßóôáóçò ôçò ÊñÞôçò, åíáíôßïí ôïõ êáôáêôçôÞ. ÓÞìåñá ôï êñçôéêü ìá÷áßñé, áðïôåëåß áíáðüóðáóôï åîÜñôçìá ôçò ðáñáäïóéáêÞò êñçôéêÞò óôïëÞò. Ôï áñãõñü ìá÷áßñé, êïóìåß ôç óôïëÞ ôçò áññáâùíéáóìÝíçò êñçôéêéÜò, óçìÜäé ðùò ðñÝðåé íá ôçí ðñïóÝ÷ïõí üëïé. Óôá ãëÝíôéá, ïé ìáíôéíÜäåò áíáöÝñïíôáé óôï ðåñÞöáíï üðëï ôçò ÊñÞôçò: “Ôç ëåõôåñéÜ åäßäáîåò êé üëïò ï êüóìïò îÝñåé, ôï ôéìçìÝíï üðëï óïõ, ôï êñçôéêü ìá÷áßñé. Ìá÷áßñé ìáõñïìÜíéêï êñáôþ êáé äå öïâïýìáé. Êé üðïõ áãáðþ, ìçí áãáðÜò, ãéáôß èá óêïôùèïýìå.”

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Ôï ÑÝèõìíï êáé ç åõñÞôåñç ðåñéï÷Þ Rethymno and the surrounding area

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Ïé ËõñÜñçäåò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ ÃåìÜôïò èñýëïõò åßíáé ï ôüðïò ôïýôïò. Èåïß êáé íåñÜéäåò êáé óôïé÷åéÜ, öþëéáóáí óôéò øõ÷Ýò, Ýãéíáí ìýèïé êáé ìåôáöÝñèçêáí áðü ãåíéÜ óå ãåíéÜ. Ôá ïñïðÝäéá, ôá Üãñéá öáñÜããéá, ïé óðçëéÝò, ôá áîéïèÝáôá êáé ïé åíáëëáãÝò ôïõ ôïðßïõ ðïõ óïõ êüâïõí ôçí áíÜóá, óôïß÷åéùóáí óôç öáíôáóßá êáé Ýãéíáí ôüðïé èáõìáóìïý. Óå ôïýôá ôá ìÝñç, ðëÜóôçêå êáé ñßæùóå ï ìýèïò ôïõ ËõñÜñç. Åäþ, æïýóå Ýíáò âïóêüò. Ëåâåíôïíéüò êáé ðáëéêÜñé, Ýðáéîå ëýñá êáé ìÜñáéíå êáñäéÝò. Äåí åß÷å üíïìá, ËõñÜñç ôïí Ýëåãáí. Óôïõò âñÜ÷ïõò, óôá áðüóêéá, óôéò íåñïðçãÝò, ï ëõñÜñçò Ýðáéæå. Áêïýóôçêå ç èåúêÞ öùíÞ ôçò ëýñáò êáé üëïé ôñÝ÷áíå áðü êïíôÜ. ÎáöíéêÜ, ï ËõñÜñçò ÷Üèçêå. Äå âñéóêüôáí ðïõèåíÜ. Ï èñýëïò ôïí ôýëéîå ìáæß ìå ôç ëýñá ôïõ. Ìéá áöÝããáñç íý÷ôá ×åéìùíéÜôéêá, ï âïñéÜò îÝóðáóå. ×ôõðïýóå áðåéëçôéêüò ôá öáñÜããéá, ìïýãêñéæå. Êåßíç ôç íý÷ôá, ï ËõñÜñçò êñýöôçêå óå öáñÜããé ãéá íá óùèåß. ÎáöíéêÜ ôñéãýñù Üñ÷éóáí íá ÷ïñåýïõí ïé íåñÜéäåò. ×ïñüò, ïìïñöéÜ, ìåãáëåßï. Êáé ï ËõñÜñçò, Ýðéá��å ôç ëýñá êáé Üñ÷éóå íá ðáßæåé. ¿ñåò ïëüêëçñåò. ÔñåëáìÝíïò áð’ ôéò íåñÜéäåò Ýðáéæå, Ýðáéæå. Êáé ìåôÜ ÷Üèçêå ìáæß ôïõò. Áðü ôüôå, êÜèå íý÷ôá óôá öáñÜããéá ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ êáé óôç èÜëáóóá, ç ëýñá êåëáçäåß, ôïýôï ôïí áðüêïóìï óêïðü. Ôï êåëÜäçìá ôçò Ýãéíå ôñüðïò æùÞò óôï ÑÝèõìíï. Ôïí Þ÷ï ôçò ìåôÝöåñå óôá óðßôéá ï áÝñáò êáé ôçí ôÝ÷íç ôïõ ëõñÜñç ôçí ðÞñáí êáé ôç äéáôÞñçóáí, ðáëéêÜñéá ðïëëÜ. Ç ëýñá óôï ÑÝèõìíï áêïýåôáé óå êÜèå óôéãìÞ. Óôï

Íßêïò Îõëïýñçò, Âáóßëçò ÓêïõëÜò, Øáñáíôþíçò, ìåôáîý Üëëùí ëõñÜñçäùí - Nikos Xylouris, Vassilis Skoulas, Psarantonis among other lyra players

ãÜìï, óôç âÜöôéóç, óôç ãéïñôÞ, óôçí ðáñÝá. Óôçí ðüëç Þ ôï ÷ùñéü. Ðïëëïß ËõñÜñçäåò áêïëïýèçóáí ôçí ôÝ÷íç. ¸ãéíáí èñýëïé. ÔïõöÝêé êáé áçäüíé, ï Þ÷ïò ôçò Ëýñáò ôïõò. Áðü ôïí ðñùôïìÜóôïñá Ñïäéíü, ôï ìïíáäéêü ÈáíÜóç Óêïñäáëü, ôï äÜóêáëï Ëåùíßäá ÊëÜäï, ôï äçìéïõñãü Êþóôá ÌïõíôÜêç, ôïí áîÝ÷áóôï Íßêï Îõëïýñç, ìéá ïëüêëçñç ãåíéÜ åêôåëåóôþí ôçò ëýñáò, ðïõ ðÞñå ôçí ôÝ÷íç êáé ôç ìåôÝöåñå óå êÜèå óðßôé. Ôïýôç ôçí áðáñÜìéëëç ôÝ÷íç, óõíå÷ßæïõí ïé íåüôåñïé Âáóßëçò ÓêïõëÜò, Øáñáíôþíçò, ÌðéêÜêçò êáé áêüìç ðéï íÝïé ðïõ æùíôáíåýïõí ôï èñýëï ôùí ëõñÜñçäùí óôï ÑÝèõìíï. Ôç ëýñá óõíïäåýåé ôï ëáïýôï, Ýíá åîáßóéï üñãáíï ðïõ ðïëéôïãñáöÞèçêå êñçôéêü. ÌáñêïãéÜííçò, ÊïõêÜêçò, ÊáêëÞò êáé ðïëëïß Üëëïé óõíïäåýïõí ôç ëýñá. Ïé ëõñÜñçäåò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ óõíå÷ßæïõí íá ïìïñöáßíïõí ôéò óôéãìÝò ìéáò êïéíùíßáò, ðïõ ãëåíôÜ ôçí êÜèå óôéãìÞ.

ÑÝèõìíï 87


ÑÝèõìíï - ÌïíÞ Áñêáäßïõ Ç ãíùñéìßá ìå ôï íïìü Ñåèýìíçò áñ÷ßæåé áðü Ýíá ðñïóêýíçìá ìíÞìçò, óôï ÁñêÜäé, ôï óýìâïëï ôçò åëåõèåñßáò êáé ôïõ áãþíá. Áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï, áêïëïõèïýìå ôï äñüìï ãéá ôï ÇñÜêëåéï. Óôï 5ï ÷ëì., äéáêëÜäùóç äåîéÜ ïäçãåß ìåôÜ áðü 8 ÷ëì., óôï ÷ùñéü ¢äåëå. Ç äéáäñïìÞ ùò ôï ¢äåëå ãßíåôáé ìÝóá áðü êáôáðñÜóéíï ôïðßï. Ôï ßäéï ôï ÷ùñéü âñßóêåôáé ìÝóá óå åëáéþíåò. ×ôßóôçêå åðß ñùìáúêÞò åðï÷Þò êáé åßíáé ðáôñßäá ôïõ ðõñðïëçôÞ ôïõ Áñêáäßïõ, Ê. ÃéáìðïõäÜêç. Óôï ÷ùñéü óþæåôáé ôï óðßôé ôïõ êáé óôçí ðëáôåßá, õðÜñ÷åé ðñïôïìÞ ôïõ. Ï äñüìïò óõíå÷ßæåé ìÝóá áðü ôá ÷ùñéÜ Ëïýôñá êáé ÊõñéÜííá üðïõ åíôõðùóéÜæïõí: åíåôéêÜ êôßóìáôá êáé åêêëçóßá ôïõ 14ïõ áéþíá, áöéåñùìÝíç óôçí Êïßìçóç ôçò Ðáíáãßáò êáé ôçí Áãßá ÐáñáóêåõÞ. Áíçöïñßæïíôáò, ï äñüìïò ïäçãåß óôï

88 ÑÝèõìíï

÷ùñéü ÁìíÜôï ìå ôçí ðáíïñáìéêÞ èÝá. ÄõôéêÜ, õøþíåôáé ï Âñýóéíáò, âïñåéïáíáôïëéêÜ ï åëáéþíáò ìå ôï Êñçôéêü ÐÝëáãïò êáé íüôéá áíôéãõñßæïìå ôï ýøùìá ôçò ÌïíÞò Áñêáäßïõ. Ôï ÷ùñéü êáôïéêåßôáé áðü ôçí ÅíåôéêÞ åðï÷Þ, üðùò ìáñôõñïýí ôá âåíåôóéÜíéêá óðßôéá êáé ïé åðéãñáöÝò óôéò åîþèõñåò. Ðïëëïß êÜôïéêïß ôïõ, åß÷áí êëåéóôåß óôï ÁñêÜäé. Ìåôáîý áõôþí, Þôáí êáé ç çñùßäá ×áñßêëåéá ÄáóêáëÜêç, ìå ôïõò äõï ôçò ãéïõò. Óôçí ðëáôåßá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý, õðÜñ÷åé ðñïôïìÞ ôçò. Áðü ôïí ÁìíÜôï, óôåíüò áíçöïñéêüò äñüìïò ìå óôñïöÝò, ìÝóá áðü êáôÜöõôç ÷áñÜäñá ìå ðõêíïýò åëáéþíåò, ìåôÜ áðü 5 ÷ëì. ïäçãåß óôç ÌïíÞ Áñêáäßïõ. Óå åîáéñåôéêÜ ðñïíïìéáêÞ èÝóç, ìå èÝá ìïíáäéêÞ, õøþíåôáé ç ÌïíÞ Áñêáäßïõ. Ï åðéóêÝðôçò áíôéêñßæåé ôç ÌïíÞ êëåéóìÝíç óôï ôåß÷ïò, ëåò êáé ðñïóðáèåß íá êñáôÞóåé ìáêñéÜ ôïõò êïõñóåõôÝò ôçò. ¢èåëÜ ôïõ


ï åðéóêÝðôçò, íéþèåé äÝïò óå ôïýôï ôïí ôüðï. Ïé ìÜ÷åò, ôï áßìá, ïé êñáõãÝò æùíôáíåýïõí óôç ìíÞìç êáé äçìéïõñãïýí Ýíá ðáñÜîåíï óõíáßóèçìá. Ç çóõ÷ßá ðïõ áðëþíåôáé ôñéãýñù, óõìðëçñþíåé Ýíá ðñùôüãíùñï óêçíéêü ðïõ óå õðïâÜëëåé. Ç çìåñïìçíßá ßäñõóçò ôïõ ìïíáóôçñéïý, äåí åßíáé áðüëõôá ãíùóôÞ. ËÝíå ðùò éäñýèçêå óôç ÂõæáíôéíÞ ðåñßïäï, áðü Ýíá ìïíá÷ü ïíüìáôé ÁñêÜäéï. Ç Üðïøç åðéâåâáéþíåôáé êáé áðü ôçí áíáêÜëõøç ìéáò ðáëéÜò åðéãñáöÞò, ðïõ âñÝèçêå óå ìéá áíáóôÞëùóç ôçò: «ÁñêÜäéï êÝêëçìáé, íáüí ä’ Ý÷ù Êùíóôáíôßíïõ Üíáêôïò éóáðïóôüëïõ». Áðïôåëåßôáé áðü ôï öñïõñéáêü óõãêñüôçìá ìå äýï êýñéåò åéóüäïõò, ôñáðå-

æáñßá, ðõñéôéäáðïèÞêç, êåëÜñéá. Ç ðýëç ðïõ êáôáóôñÜöçêå ôï 1866, îáíá÷ôßóôçêå ôï 1870.Ç åðéâëçôéêÞ ôçò ðñüóïøç, óå ñõèìü ÁíáãÝííçóçò, äåóðüæåé óå üëï ôï óõãêñüôçìá, ìå ôá èïëùôÜ êåëéÜ êáé ôá ãïôèéêÜ ðáñÜèõñá. Ôï êáèïëéêü ôçò åßíáé äßêëéôç âáóéëéêÞ êáé åßíáé áöéåñùìÝíï óôïí ¢ãéï Êùíóôáíôßíï êáé ôç Ìåôáìüñöùóç ôïõ ÓùôÞñïò. Ôïí 18ï áéþíá, åäþ Þêìáæå ç ÷ñõóïêåíôçôéêÞ êáé õðÞñ÷å åñãáóôÞñé êåíôçôéêÞò áìößùí. Ç áðñüóéôç èÝóç ôïõ êáé ç êáôáóêåõÞ ôïõ, êÜóôñï ìå ðáíýøçëïõò ôïß÷ïõò, óôÜèçêå êáèïñéóôéêÞ ãéá ôçí éóôïñßá ôïõ. Ôï ÁñêÜäé, óå êáéñïýò ÷áëåðïýò, Ýðáéñíå ìÝñïò ôéò åðé÷åéñÞóåéò åíáíôßïí ôùí Ôïýñêùí. Óõíôçñïýóå ôïõò ×áÀíçäåò. Ôüíùíå ôï åèíéêü óõíáßóèçìá,

ÑÝèõìíï 89


üðëéæå ðïëåìéóôÝò, Ýêñõâå êáôáæçôïýìåíïõò. ¹ôáí ëçìÝñé ôùí åðáíáóôáôþí. Óôçí Éóôïñßá üìùò ôïõ Åëëçíéêïý ¸èíïõò, ìå ôïõò áôÝëåéùôïõò áãþíåò, ìðÞêå ìå ôï çñùéêü ïëïêáýôùìá óôéò 8 ÍïÝìâñç 1866. Ç èõóßá ôïõ, õðÞñîå ôï óõãêëïíéóôéêüôåñï ãåãïíüò, ôùí êñçôéêþí åðáíáóôÜóåùí. “Äå ôç âáóôþ ãù ôç óêëáâéÜ óôïí êüóìï ôïí áðÜíù. Êáé ôü÷ù ðßêñá ìïõ íá æù, ÷áñÜ ìïõ íá ðïèÜíù.” Êáé üôáí Þñèå ç þñá ôïõ îåóçêùìïý, óÞêùóå êáé ðÜëé ôç óçìáßá ôïõ áãþíá êáé óõììåôåß÷å óôçí åðáíÜóôáóç. Áõôüò Þôáí ï ëüãïò ðïõ ï ÌïõóôáöÜ ÐáóÜò, áñ÷çãüò ôïõ ôïõñêéêïý óôñáôïý, ôï Ýèåóå óáí ôïí êõñéüôåñï óôü÷ï ôùí åêêáèáñéóôéêþí åðé÷åéñÞóåùí óôçí îåóçêùìÝíç ÊñÞôç. Áñâáíßôçò Üîåóôïò, óêëçñüò, ðïíçñüò êáé áäßóôáêôïò, äåí ðåñßìåíå êáíåßò áð’ áõôüí, Ýëåïò. Ðåñéêýêëùóå ôï ìïíáóôÞñé êáé ìå áðáíùôÝò ãñáöÝò ðïõ Ýóôåëíå óôïí çãïýìåíï æçôïýóå : «….íá ôüíå ðñïóêõíÞóåé, ôï ÌïíáóôÞñé áöýëá÷ôï áí èÝëåé íá ô’ áöÞóåé….» Óôï ìïíáóôÞñé Ý÷ïõí êëåéóôåß 966 Üôïìá (êáëüãåñïé, ëáúêïß, ãõíáßêåò, ðáéäéÜ) áðü ôá ïðïßá ìüíï ôá 250 ìðïñïýóáí íá öÝñïõí üðëá. ÅðéêåöáëÞò üëùí Þôáí ï ÉùÜííçò Äçìáêüðïõëïò, åèåëïíôÞò óôïí Êñçôéêü áãþíá êáé øõ÷Þ ôïõ áãþíá, ï çãïýìåíïò ÃáâñéÞë ÌáñéíÜêçò áðü ôéò Ìáñãáñßôåò ÌõëïðïôÜìïõ. Ôï üíïìá êáé ôùí äýï ôïýôùí áíäñþí, óõíäÝèçêå ìå ôç óõãêëïíéóôéêüôåñç óôéãìÞ ôçò ÊñçôéêÞò Éóôïñßáò. Óôç ìïíÞ õðÞñ÷å áðüëõôç ðåéèáñ÷ßá. Ïé ãõíáßêåò ãÝìéæáí ôá ôïõöÝêéá êáé ïé Üíäñåò, ðõñïâïëïýóáí ôá ôïýñêéêá óôßöç ðïõ Ýñ÷ïíôáí êáôÜ êýìáôá. Ç ãõíáß-

90 ÑÝèõìíï

êá óôïõò áãþíåò ôùí Êñçôþí, Ýðáéîå óçìáíôéêü ñüëï. Ìéá áðü ôéò ãõíáéêåßåò ìïñöÝò ðïõ óöñÜãéóáí ôïí áãþíá ôïõ Áñêáäéïý, Þôáí ç ×áñßêëåéá ÄáóêáëÜêç áðü ôïí ÁìíÜôï Ñåèýìíçò. ¹ôáí óýæõãïò, êüñç, ìÜíá ðïëåìéóôþí. Áðü ôç äéÞãçóç ôçò ìåôÜ ôçí ðôþóç ôçò ìïíÞò, ðáñáèÝôïìå áõôïýóéï Ýíá ìÝñïò: “Çôï 11 þñá ð.ì. çìÝñá ÔåôñÜäç ôçò åâäïìÜäïò êáé 9 ôïõ ìçíüò Íïåìâñßïõ. Ï ðüëåìïò åß÷åí áñ÷ßóåé áðü ôá ÷áñÜãìáôá ôçò Ôñßôçò êáé äéÞñêåé óõíå÷Þò ìÝ÷ñé ôçò þñáò ôáýôçò, êáè’ Þí ïé Ôïýñêïé, áíáíåþóáíôåò ôï ðïëëÜêéò áðïëåóèÝí èÜññïò ôùí, åðõêíïýíôï åéò äýù öÜëáãêáò, óõãêåíôñþóáíôåò åéò áõôÜò êáé ôïõò áíáñéèìÞôïõò áêñïâïëéóôÜò. ×ñõóïóôüëéóôïò ÐáóóÜò, ï õéüò ôïõ ÌïõóôáöÜ, Óáëß÷ ÐáóÜò, åðß ÷ñõóïöáëÜñïõ ßððïõ, îéöÞñçò ðåñéÝ÷åôáé ìüíïò ôáò öÜëáãêáò, äåéêíýåé ôïí ÁëëÜ÷, äåéêíýåé êáé ôçí ÌïíÞí. Ìåô’ ïëßãá ëåðôÜ áé öÜëáãêåò ìåôÜ êñáõãþí áãñßùí êéíïýíôáé· êáé ç ìåí äéåõèýíåôáé Üíôéêñõ ôçò ìåãÜëçò èýñáò, Þí ôåôñÜêéò åß÷å êñçìíÞóåé ôï áêáôÜðáõóôïí ðõñ ôùí ðõñïâüëùí, Þôéò êáé ôåôñÜêéò áíçãÝñèç, æõìùèåßóá ìå ôï áßìá ôùí áíåãåéñüíôùí áõôÞí…” ÌåôÜ áðü ôéôÜíéï áãþíá, ôá ðïëåìïöüäéá ôùí áãùíéóôþí ôïõ Áñêáäéïý ôåëåéþíïõí. Äåí åßíáé äõíáôÞ ç óõíÝ÷éóç ôçò áíôßóôáóçò. Ç êïõôóá÷åßëá, ôï ìåãÜëï êáíüíé ðïõ ìåôÝöåñáí ïé ôïýñêïé áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï, êáôÜöåñå íá ãêñåìßóåé ôç èåüñáôç ðüñôá ôçò ìïíÞò êáé ìáæß ôçò, ôçí åëðßäá ôùí ×ñéóôéáíþí. ¸ôóé êáôÜöåñáí íá ìðïõí ìÝóá ïé Ôïýñêïé êáé íá ðëçììõñßóïõí ôç áõëÞ. Ìïëýíïíôáé ôá ¢ãéá ×þìáôá ôïõ Ìïíáóôçñéïý. Ôïõ Ôïýñêïõ ôï ãéáôáãÜíé, óõãêñïýåôáé ìå ôï ìá÷áßñé ôïõ Êñçôéêïý. ¸íá áðÝñáíôï óöáãåßï åßíáé ï ðåñßâïëïò ôçò ìïíÞò. Ôá ãõíáéêüðáéäá êáé ïé


Áðüøåéò ôçò ÌïíÞò Áñêáäßïõ - Arkadiou’s monastery views

ôñáõìáôßåò, Ý÷ïõí óõãêåíôñùèåß óôç ìðáñïõôáðïèÞêç. Ç âïÞèåéá ðïõ æÞôçóáí ïé Ýãêëåéóôïé, äåí Ýöôáóå ðïôÝ. Ï ÊùóôÞò ÃéáìðïõäÜêçò, üôáí ïé ôïýñêïé ãÝìéóáí ôçí ðõñéôéäáðïèÞêç, êÜíåé ôï óôáõñü ôïõ êáé ðõñïâïëåß óôï ìðáñïýôé. ÅêáôïíôÜäåò íåêñïß. ¸íá ðëÞèïò ðôùìÜôùí ôéíÜ÷ôçêå óå ìåãÜëç áðüóôáóç. Ôï ÁñêÜäé ðÝèáíå. Áðü ôïõò 966 Ýãêëåéóôïõò ¸ëëçíåò 3-4 îÝöõãáí. Ïé õðüëïéðïé ðÝèáíáí. Ï êñüôïò ôçò áíáôßíáîçò áêïýóôçêå óå üëç ôçí Åõñþðç, ôáñáêïýíçóå óõíåéäÞóåéò êáé îýðíçóå óõíáéóèÞìáôá. ¸íá ôåñÜóôéï öéëåëëçíéêü êßíçìá îýðíçóå. Ôåëåéùìü äåí Ý÷ïõí ôá âéâëßá ðïõ ãñÜöôçêáí áðü íôüðéïõò êáé îÝíïõò. Ç åðÝôåéïò ôïõ Ïëïêáõôþìáôïò ôçò éóôïñéêÞò ìïíÞò, ãéïñ-

ôÜæåôáé óôéò 9 Íïåìâñßïõ, óáí ÅèíéêÞ ãéïñôÞ ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. ÓÞìåñá ç ÌïíÞ, ãßíåôáé ôüðïò åðßóêåøçò ãéá ÷éëéÜäåò åðéóêÝðôåò. ÈáõìÜæïõí ôçí åíôõðùóéáêÞ áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ. Ôï éóôïñéêü ËÜâáñï. Ôï ðëÞèïò áñãõñþí êáé ÷ñõóþí áíôéêåéìÝíùí. Ôá 11 åõáããÝëéá ñùóéêÞò ôÝ÷íçò, áíåêôßìçôçò áîßáò. Ç øõ÷Þ üìùò ðéÜíåôáé, üôáí áíôéêñßæåéò ôçí ðõñéôéäáðïèÞêç, ðïõ Ýóôåéëå ôï ìÞíõìá ôçò åëåõèåñßáò óå ïëüêëçñï ôïí êüóìï. Êáé ôï ìÞíõìá öôÜíåé áôüöéï áðü ãåíéÜ óå ãåíéÜ: “ÎÝñåôå ðáéäéÜ ôé åßíáé ôï ÁñêÜäé; Åßíáé ôçò ÊñÞôçò ç öùíÞ êáé ô’ Üãéï ìõóôéêü ôçò. Åéí’ ç ðáôñßäá ïëÜêåñç ìáæß ìå ô’ üíåéñü ôçò.”

ÑÝèõìíï 91


Éóôïñéêü êáé Ëáïãñáöéêü Ìïõóåßï Óôçí ðáëéÜ ðüëç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, Ýíá âåíåôóéÜíéêï áñ÷ïíôéêü Ý÷åé áíïßîåé ôéò áßèïõóåò ôïõ êáé óôåãÜæåé ôï éóôïñéêü êáé ëáïãñáöéêü ìïõóåßï ôçò ðüëçò. Ôï âåíåôóéÜíéêï êôßñéï ôïõ Éäñýìáôïò, éóôïñéêü äéáôçñçôÝï ìíçìåßï ôïõ 17ïõ áé., ðñïóöÝñåé ôïí éäåþäç ÷þñï ãéá ôçí ðáñïõóßáóç ôùí óõëëïãþí ôïõ, åíþ ðáñÜëëçëá ç ëåéôïõñãßá ôïõ Ìïõóåßïõ óõìâÜëëåé óôçí ðñïóôáóßá ôïõ ìíçìåßïõ. Ïé åêèåóéáêïß ÷þñïé ôïõ Ìïõóåßïõ (ìüíéìç Ýêèåóç) åêôåßíïíôáé óå ðÝíôå áßèïõóåò êáé ðåñéëáìâÜíïõí êõñßùò, áíôéêåßìåíá ôçò ðáñáäïóéáêÞò ÷åéñïôå÷íßáò êáé ëáúêÞò ôÝ÷íçò. Óôü÷ïò ôïõ Éóôïñéêï�� - Ëáïãñáöéêïý Ìïõóåßïõ Ñåèýìíçò åßíáé íá åîåëé÷èåß óå Ýíá óýã÷ñï-

íï åñåõíçôéêü êáé åêðáéäåõôéêü êÝíôñï ãéá ôç äéÜóùóç ôïõ Ëáúêïý ðïëéôéóìïý ôçò ÊñÞôçò, åíþ ìå äéåèíÞ óõíåñãáóßá, èá áíáæçôÞóåé êáé èá ðñïâÜëåé ôéò êïéíÝò áîßåò ôùí ëáþí ðïõ áðïôåëïýí ðáíáíèñþðéíç êëçñïíïìéÜ. Óôéò áßèïõóÝò ôïõ ðáñïõóéÜæïíôáé ïé óõëëïãÝò ôïõ áðü õöáíôÜ, êåíôÞìáôá, äáíôÝëåò, êåñáìéêÜ, êáëÜèéá, êáèþò êáé ôá ðáñáäïóéáêÜ åðáããÝëìáôá ôïõ ÷áëêïõñãïý, ôïõ óáìáñïðïéïý, ôïõ ðåôáëùôÞ ê.Ü. Óôï éóüãåéï, óôåãÜæïíôáé ðåñéïäéêÝò åêèÝóåéò êáé ðñáãìáôïðïéïýíôáé åêðáéäåõôéêÜ ðñïãñÜììáôá. Óôçí ðßóù êáé ôçí êåíôñéêÞ áõëÞ, óþæïíôáé ìÝ÷ñé óÞìåñá, ôï ðåñéâüëé ìå ôéò íåñáíôæéÝò, ôï ðçãÜäé êáé ç óôÝñíá ìå ôçí ðÝôñéíç óêÜöç. ÔÝôïéïé üìïñöïé êáé ìåãÜëïé êÞðïé õðÜñ÷ïõí óå ðïëëÜ óðßôéá ôçò ðáëéÜò ðüëçò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, áèÝáôïé áð’ ôï äñüìï.

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ÑÝèõìíï 93


ÄÉÁÄÑÏÌÅÓ - TRACKS ÑÝèõìíï - ÁñêÜäé / Rethymno - Arkadi ÑÝèõìíï - Ìðáëß / Rethymno - Bali ÑÝèõìíï - Áîüò - Áíþãåéá - Íßäá - ÆùíéáíÜ - ËéâÜäéá - ÐÝñáìá - Ìåëéäüíé / Rethymno - Axos - Anogia - Nida - Zoniana - Livadia Perama - Melidoni ÑÝèõìíï - Ìáñãáñßôåò - Áñ÷áßá Åëåýèåñíá - ÁããåëéáíÜ / Rethymno - Margarites - Archaia Eleftherna - Aggeliana ÑÝèõìíï - Âñýóéíáò - ÊïéëÜäá Áìáñßïõ / Rethymno - Vrissinas - Amariou Valley ÑÝèõìíï - ÐåôñÝò - Áñãõñïýðïëç / Rethymno - Petres - Argyroupoli ÑÝèõìíï - ÁñìÝíïé - Áã. Âáóßëåéïò - ÊÜíåâïò - ÖáñÜããé Êïôóéöïý - ÑïäÜêéíï / Rethymno - Armeni - Ag. Vasilios - Kanevos Kotsifou Gorge - Rodakino ÑÝèõìíï - Êïõñôáëéþôéêï ÖáñÜããé - Áóþìáôïò - ÐñÝâåëç - ÐëáêéÜò / Rethymno - Kourtaliotiko Gorge - Asomatos - Preveli - Plakias ÑÝèõìíï - ÓðÞëé - Áã. Ðáýëïò - Ôñéüðåôñá / Rethymno - Spili - Ag. Pavlos - Triopetra

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akias

ÑÝèõìíï 95


ÑÝèõìíï - Ìðáëß Áðü ôï êÝíôñï ôçò ðüëçò, áíáæçôïýìå ìßá Ýîïäï ðñïò ôçí åèíéêÞ ïäü (åßôå áðü ôïí êüìâï Áôóéðïðïýëïõ, óôá äõôéêÜ ôçò ðüëçò åßôå áðü ôá Ìéóßñéá, 3 ÷ëì. áíáôïëéêÜ áõôÞò) êáé êáôåõèõíüìáóôå ðñïò ôá áíáôïëéêÜ ðñïò ÇñÜêëåéï. Óôï 9ï ÷ëì. ôçò íÝáò åèíéêÞò ïäïý Ñåèýìíïõ - Çñáêëåßïõ, êáôÜ ìÞêïò ôçò ðáñáëßáò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò Áäåëéáíüò ÊÜìðïò, áíáðôýóóïíôáé ïé ðåñéóóüôåñåò îåíïäï÷åéáêÝò ìïíÜäåò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Óôï 21ï ÷ëì. öèÜíïõìå óôïí êüìâï ôïõ Ðáíüñìïõ êáé áí óôñßøïõìå äåîéÜ, ìðáßíïõìå óôï ðáñáèáëÜóóéï ÷ùñéü ìå ôá áðïìåéíÜñéá ôçò èáõìÜóéáò îõëüóôåãçò ðáëáéï÷ñéóôéáíéêÞò âáóéëéêÞò ôçò Áãßáò Óïößáò êáé ôïí ùñáßï ïñìßóêï ãéá êïëýìðé. Ôï ÐÜíïñìï áðïôåëïýóå êáôÜ ôçí áñ÷áéüôçôá ôï åðßíåéï ôçò áñ÷áßáò Åëåýèåñíáò. Âãáßíïíôáò óôçí íÝá åèíéêÞ ïäü êáé óõíå÷ßæïíôáò áíáôïëéêüôåñá, óôï 34ï ÷ëì., öèÜíïõìå óôïí ðáñáèáëÜóóéï ïéêéóìü Ìðáëß ìå ôéò èáõìÜóéåò ðåíôáêÜèáñåò ðáñáëßåò êáé ôçí ðñïçãìÝíç ôïõñéóôéêÞ õðïäïìÞ. Ìüíï 28 ÷éëéüìåôñá áíáôïëéêÜ ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, áõôü ôï øáñÜäéêï ÷ùñéü, ðïõ Ý÷åé ìåôáôñáðåß óå ðáñáèáëÜóóéï èÝ-

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ñåôñï, Ý÷åé Ýíäïîï ðáñåëèüí. Ïé ÂåíåôóéÜíïé ôï ïíüìáæáí ÁôÜëç, áðü ôï áñ÷áßï ôïõ üíïìá ðïõ Þôáí ÁóôÜëç. ÕðÜñ÷åé êáé ç ÌïíÞ ÁôÜëçò åêåß êïíôÜ, ðïõ äéáôçñåß ôç ìåóáéùíéêÞ ïíïìáóßá ôïõ ôüðïõ. Åßíáé êôéóìÝíï óå ìßá õðåñõøùìÝíç ìéêñÞ ÷åñóüíçóï, Ýôóé Ý÷åé èÝá óôïí üñìï êáé ôç èÜëáóóá. Ìå Ýíá ìéêñü ëéìáíÜêé, êáöåíåßá, åóôéáôüñéá, óíáê-ìðáñ, ìå êáëÜ êáôáëýìáôá êáé ôñåéò ðáñáëßåò óå ôñåéò ìéêñïýò êïëðßóêïõò, ðñïóöÝñåé ðïëý êáëü ðåñéâÜëëïí ãéá ôéò äéáêïðÝò óáò, áí êáé ïé ðáëéïß åðéóêÝðôåò ôïõ åðéìÝíïõí ðùò, ðáëéüôåñá, Þôáí ðéï ãñáöéêü. Ôï êáôáêáëüêáéñï õðÜñ÷åé äõíáôüôçôá íá êÜíåôå åêäñïìÞ óôï ÑÝèõìíï ìå èáëÜóóéï ôáîß. ÖõóéêÜ, ìðïñïýìå íá êÜíïõìå êáé åêäñïìÝò óôá âïõíÜ óôá íüôéá, ðïõ ìßá ôïõò ðñÝðåé íá åßíáé ç åðßóêåøç óôï Éäáßïí ¢íôñïí, ôç óðçëéÜ ðïõ, êáôÜ ôç Ìõèïëïãßá, ãåííÞèçêå ï Äßáò, êõíçãçìÝíïò áðü ôïí ðáôÝñá ôïõ, ôïí Êñüíï. ÊáôÜ ôï ìýèï, ôï âïõíü ðïõ âñßóêåôáé íüôéá áðü ôï Ìðáëß, åßíáé ôï âïõíü ðïõ ï Äßáò, ùò áíôáðüäïóç ãéá ôçí ðñïóôáóßá ðïõ Ýëáâå, ÷Üñéóå óôïõò Êñçôéêïýò ôïí ìç÷áíéêü ãßãáíôá ÔÜëù, ãéá íá öñïõñåß ôï íçóß áðü ôïõò åéóâïëåßò.


Ìðáëß Ñåèýìíïõ. ¸íá ðáíÝìïñöï èÝñåôñï, ðïõ áãêáëéÜæåé ôï õðÝñï÷ï ìðëå êáé ëïýæåôáé áðü ôï èáëáóóéíü áåñÜêé. Äßðëá óôçí ðåíôáêÜèáñç ðáñáëßá, óôçí ðëáæ, óáò êáëùóïñßæïõí ïé Íçñçßäåò. ×ñþìá, öùò êáé óêéÜ êáé áÝñáò öïñôùìÝíïò áëìýñá. Áðïëáýóôå ôïí êáöÝ óôç óêéÜ ôçò ìðáíáíéÜò, ôï ðáãùôü, ôï ÷õìü, ôï óíáê. Ãåõèåßôå ôï ðëïýóéï ðñùéíü. Ôï ìåóçìÝñé ÷ïñôÜóôå ìå ôá ðéÜôá ôçò ðáñáäïóéáêÞò êïõæßíáò, ôï øçôü ôçò þñáò, ôá öñÝóêá èáëáóóéíÜ. Ôï áíôéêñéóôü êñÝáò ýóôåñá áðü ðáñáããåëßá, ôï êïõíÝëé óôéöÜäï, ôï ôóéãáñéáóôü êáôóßêé, èá ãåìßóïõí ôï ôñáðÝæé óáò. Ôá ðëÞñùò åîïðëéóìÝíá äùìÜôéá ìå ôéò âåñÜíôåò, óôï êýìá êáé ôçí áðüëõôç çñåìßá, èá óõìðëçñþóïõí ôçí áíÜãêç äéáìïíÞò. Ìáãåõôéêüò ÷þñïò, ïéêïãåíåéáêü óÝñâéò. Êáëþò íá Ýñèåôå Íçñçßäåò ÔáâÝñíá - ÊáöÝ - Åóôéáôüñéï - Åíïéê. ÄùìÜôéá Ìðáëß Ñåèýìíïõ Ôçë.: 6942 017193 E-mail: nisanakis@hotmail.com Bali of Rethymnon. In a beautiful resort embraced by the great blue of the sea and bathed by the sea breeze; Next to the all-clean beach, Niriides welcome you! There is colour, light and shadow and air bringing with it the saltiness of the see. Enjoy your coffee, ice-cream, fruit-juice or snack under the shadow of the banana tree. Taste rich breakfast. In the noon, get filled with the dishes of the traditional cuisine, grilled meat, fresh seafood; Antikristo meat upon previous order, rabbit in casserole with onions (stifado) or tsigariasto (sautéed) lamb shall fill your table with tastes. The fully equipped rooms with their verandas reaching the wave and true calmness, they cover all staying needs. It is an enchanting place with family service. You are all welcome here Niriides Tavern - Cafe - Restaurant - Rooms to let Bali of Rethymnon Tel. +30 6942 017193 ÑÝèõìíï E-mail: nisanakis@hotmail.com

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ÌïíÞ ÁôôÜëçò Ç ÌïíÞ ÁôôÜëçò Þ Ìðáëß âñßóêåôáé óôéò ðëáãéÝò ôïõ ëüöïõ ôçò Áãßáò ÕðáêïÞò, äõôéêÜ ôïõ Ìðáëßïõ, ìå ðáíïñáìéêÞ èÝá óôç èÜëáóóá êáé ðïëý êïíôÜ óôçí Å.Ï. Ñåèýìíïõ - Çñáêëåßïõ. Óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ, ðïõ ìÝ÷ñé ôï 1970 ðïõ áíïß÷ôçêå ï åèíéêüò äñüìïò Þôáí áðïìïíùìÝíç, Üíèéóå ï ìïíá÷éóìüò êáé ï áóêçôéóìüò. Ç ìïíÞ ÁôôÜëçò ëåéôïõñãåß ùò áíäñéêÞ ìïíÞ êáé åßíáé áöéåñùìÝíç óôïí ¢ãéï ÉùÜííç ôïí Ðñüäñïìï. Ôï óõãêñüôçìá åßíáé êôéóìÝíï óå åðßðåäá, ëüãù ôçò Ýíôïíçò êëßóçò ôïõ åäÜöïõò. ÊïíôÜ óôçí åíôõðùóéáêÞ åßóïäï ôçò ìïíÞò, õðÞñ÷áí ïé óôÜâëïé ôçò, åíþ ðáñáìÝóá èá äåßôå ôï ðáëéü åëáéïôñéâåßï, ôï åñãáóôÞñéï êåñáìéêÞò, ôï öïýñíï êáé, áðÝíáíôé, ôá êåëéÜ êáé ôç ôñÜðåæá (ç ïðïßá åßíáé ôïé÷ïãñáöçìÝíç). Ôï êáèïëéêü äåí âñßóêåôáé óôï êÝíôñï ôçò áõëÞò, üðùò óõíçèßæåôáé, áëëÜ óôç âïñåéïáíáôïëéêÞ ðëåõñÜ ôïõ êôéñéáêïý

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óõíüëïõ êáé Ýîù áð’ áõôü. Ãéá íá íéþèïõí áóöáëåßò ïé ìïíá÷ïß áðü ôéò óõ÷íÝò ðåéñáôéêÝò åðéäñïìÝò, ìéáò êáé åßíáé êïíôÜ óôç èÜëáóóá, õðÞñ÷å ìéá âáñéÜ ðüñôá ðïõ óöñÜãéæå ôç óêÜëá ðïõ ïäçãåß óôïí íáü. ¸ôóé, õðÞñ÷å Ýíá åßäïò öñïõñßïõ, ìÝóá óôï ïðïßï ðåñéêëåßïíôáí üëåò ïé âáóéêÝò ëåéôïõñãßåò ôçò ìïíÞò, åêôüò üìùò áðü ôï íáü. Ôï Ìðáëß ãåíéêüôåñá Ý÷åé äéáäñáìáôßóåé óðïõäáßï ñüëï óôçí ôïðéêÞ éóôïñßá, êáèþò ï üñìïò ôïõ Þôáí Ýíáò áðü ôá âáóéêüôåñá óçìåßá áíåöïäéáóìïý ôùí åðáíáóôáôþí êáé åðéêïéíùíßáò ìå ôçí åëåýèåñç ÅëëÜäá. Ïé Ôïýñêïé ðñïóðÜèçóáí ðïëëÝò öïñÝò íá êáôáëÜâïõí ôç ðåñéï÷Þ, ðñïêáëþíôáò ðáñÜëëçëá æçìéÝò êáé óôç ìïíÞ. ×áñáêôçñéóôéêü åßíáé üôé óôç Óßöíï õðÜñ÷åé êé Üëëç ÌïíÞ Ìðáëß, óôçí ïðïßá ðéóôåýåôáé üôé åß÷áí ìåôáöÝñåé ïé ìïíá÷ïß ôçò ÁôôÜëçò ôçí éåñÞ åéêüíá ôçò Ðáíáãßáò, ãéá íá ãëéôþóåé áðü ôá ÔïõñêéêÜ ÷Ýñéá.


ÑÝèõìíï - Áíþãåéá Óôï 11ï ÷ëì. ôçò ðáëáéÜò åèíéêÞò ïäïý ÑÝèõìíï-ÇñÜêëåéï âñßóêåôáé ç ðåñéï÷Þ ÓôáõñùìÝíïõ, üðïõ ìðïñåß êáíåßò íá åðéóêåöèåß ôç ÌïíÞ Áñóáíßïõ. Óõíå÷ßæïíôáò óôçí ðáëáéÜ åèíéêü ïäü ðñïò ôá áíáôïëéêÜ, öèÜíåé óôï ÷ùñéü ÂéñÜí ÅðéóêïðÞ, üðïõ ôï 1959 áðïêáëýöèçêáí ôá åñåßðéá ðáëáéï÷ñéóôéáíéêÞò âáóéëéêÞò, áöéåñùìÝíçò óôïí ¢ãéï ÄçìÞôñéï. Ôï ÷ùñéü èá ðñÝðåé íá áðïôåëïýóå åðéóêïðéêÞ Ýäñá ðïõ êáôáóôñÜöçêå åðß Áñáâïêñáôßáò êáé ãé’ áõôü ðÞñå ôï üíïìá ÂéñÜí, äçëáäÞ êáôåóôñáììÝíç. 8 ÷ëì. áíáôïëéêüôåñá, âñßóêåôáé ôï ÷ùñéü ÁëåîÜíäñïõ ×Üíé êáé ìåôÜ áðü 3 ÷ëì. ôï ÷ùñéü ÐÝñáìá, ðïõ áðïôåëåß åìðïñéêü êáé äéïéêçôéêü êÝíôñï ôçò åõñýôåñçò ðåñéï÷Þò ôïõ ÌõëïðïôÜìïõ. Áðü åäþ öåýãåé åðáñ÷éáêüò äñüìïò ðïõ ìåôÜ áðü 4 ÷ëì. ïäçãåß óôï ÷ùñéü Ìåëéäüíé, üðïõ êáé ôï ïìþíõìï óðÞëáéï ôï ïðïßï áîßæåé íá åðéóêåöèåß êáíåßò. Áí

ðÜíôùò èÝëïõìå íá öèÜóïõìå óôá Áíþãåéá, èá ðñÝðåé íá óõíå÷ßóïõìå ôçí ðïñåßá ôçò ðáëáéÜò åèíéêÞò ïäïý êáé áöïý äéáó÷ßóïõìå ôá ÷ùñéÜ ¢ãéïò Óýëëáò êáé ÄáöíÝäåò, óôï 33ï ÷ëì., öèÜíïõìå óôï ÷ùñéü ÌïõñôæáíÜ ìå ôá âåíåôóéÜíéêá êôßóìáôá êáé ôçí ðëïýóéá âëÜóôçóç. Áðü åäþ ìðïñïýìå íá óôñßøïõìå äåîéÜ êáé óå 4 ÷ëì. íá öèÜóïõìå óôï ÃáñÜæï ðïõ îå÷ùñßæåé ãéá ôç èÝá ôïõ êáé ãéá ôçí ðáñáãùãÞ êßôñïõ, êáé íá êáôåõèõíèïýìå ðñïò ôçí Áîü. ÌåôÜ ôçí Áîü, áí êáé âãáßíïõìå ëßãï áðü ôçí ðïñåßá ìáò, áîßæåé íá åðéóêåöèïýìå ôï ÷ùñéü ÆùíéáíÜ ìå ôï óðÞëáéï Óöåíôüíç êáé óôç óõíÝ÷åéá, ìåôÜ áðü óõíïëéêÞ äéáäñïìÞ 54 ÷ëì., íá ðÜìå óôïí ôåëéêü ðñïïñéóìü ìáò, ôï ðáñáäïóéáêü ÷ùñéü Áíþãåéá, óôïõò âüñåéïõò ðñüðïäåò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç. Áðü ôá Áíþãåéá ìðïñåß êáíåßò åýêïëá íá åðéóêåöèåß ôï Éäáßï ¢íôñï ðïõ âñßóêåôáé óå õøüìåôñï 1499 ì. êáé óå áðüóôáóç 22 ÷ëì. áðü ôá Áíþãåéá. ÌïíÞ Áñóáíßïõ - Arsaniou Monastery

ÑÝèõìíï 99


Áíþãåéá

Ç “¢íù Ãç” ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç áëëÜ êáé ïëüêëçñçò ôçò ÊñÞôçò, äåí åßíáé ìüíï ï ôüðïò ðïõ èá óõíáíôÞóåéò ìåôÜ áðü ìéá áðïëáõóôéêÞ ðáíÜñ÷áéá äéáäñïìÞ, áíÜìåóá óå ìéêñÝò êïéëÜäåò êáé ðïëýìïñöïõò ëüöïõò, ðïõ åëÜ÷éóôá Ý÷åé áëëÜîåé áðü ôçí áñ÷áéüôçôá ìÝ÷ñé êáé óÞìåñá. “Ôá Áíþãåéá åßíáé ï ðñþôïò ôüðïò ðïõ óõíáíôÜò, üôáí êáôåâáßíåéò áðü ôïí ïõñáíü...” ëÝåé ï Ëïõäïâßêïò ôùí Áíùãåßùí. Êáé üóï õðåñâïëéêÜ áí áêïýãïíôáé ôá ëüãéá ôïõ Áíùãåéáíïý êáëëéôÝ÷íç óôçí ðñáãìáôéêüôçôá õðÜñ÷åé Ýíá ìõóôéêü, óáí Ýíá áüñáôï íÞìá ðïõ åíþíåé áõôüí ôïí õðÝñï÷ï ôüðï ìå ôï Èåßï. To ìõóôéêü áõôïý ôïõ éäéáßôåñïõ Êñçôéêïý ôüðïõ, ßóùò íá âñßóêåôáé óôç âáèéÜ êáé áêáôáìÜ÷çôç äýíáìç ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, ôçò ÌÜíáò Ãçò ðïõ ãÝííçóå ôïõò åëëçíéêïýò ìýèïõò. (ÁõôÞò ôçò ÈåÜò Ãçò ðïõ ëáôñåýôçêå áðü ôïõò Ìéíùßôåò óáí

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ç ÌåãÜëç ÌçôÝñá, ðïõ üìùò óôÜèçêå ðÜíôá óôá ìÝôñá êáé ôï ìÝãåèïò ôïõ áíèñþðïõ). Óôç äéáäñïìÞ ðñïò ôá Áíþãåéá, óïõ áðïêáëýðôåôáé ç äéôôÞ öýóç ôçò ÊñÞôçò. Áðü ôç ìéá äéáó÷ßæïíôáò ôéò ÷áìçëÝò êïéëÜäåò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò ôçò Ôõëßóóïõ Þ ôïõ ÌõëïðïôÜìïõ óôï äñüìï óïõ ãéá ôá Áíþãåéá, áíôéëáìâÜíåóáé ôç ãüíéìç ðëåõñÜ ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ðïõ óáí ãíÞóéá áñ÷áúêÞ ÌçôÝñá Ãç, ãåííÜ ôïõò ìýèïõò êáé èñýëïõò ðïõ óõíôñïöåýïõí ôïõò êáôïßêïõò ôçò, áéþíåò ôþñá. Áðü ôçí Üëëç, öèÜíïíôáò óô’ Áíþãåéá êáé êïéôÜæïíôáò íüôéá, áðïêáëýðôåôáé ï åðéâëçôéêüò üãêïò êáé ïé ó÷çìáôéóìïß ôçò ºäçò, üðùò áðü ôçí áñ÷áéüôçôá ïíïìÜæåôáé ï Øçëïñåßôçò, ðïõ öéëïîåíåß Ýíáí Üëëï êüóìï, ìéá Üëëç öýóç. Áéþíåò ôþñá, ïé äõï äéáöïñåôéêÝò áõôÝò ðëåõñÝò ôçò ÊñÞôçò, äéáôçñïýí Ýíá óõíå÷Þ ãüíéìï äéÜëïãï, áíáãêáßï ãéá ôçí ýðáñîç ìéáò æùôéêÞò éóïññïðßáò


ôüóï öõóéêÞò üóï êáé ðíåõìáôéêÞò. Åäþ óôá Áíþãåéá, èá áéóèáíèåßò ôçí ýðáñîç ìéáò ÊñÞôçò ìå ðáíÜñ÷áéåò ìíÞìåò, ðïõ åðéæïýí óôçí êáèçìåñéíÞ æùÞ ôùí êáôïßêùí, óôéò ãéïñôÝò êáé ôá ôñáãïýäéá ôïõò, óôïõò ìýèïõò êáé ôçí ðñïãïíéêÞ ìíÞìç áõôïý ôïõ êüóìïõ ðïõ Ý÷åé ÷ôßóåé ïëüêëçñç ôçí éóôïñßá ôïõ, ãýñù áðü ìéá Ýííïéá: Ôçí õðåñçöÜíåéá. Óôá Áíþãåéá, èá íïéþóåéò ãéáôß ï Øçëïñåßôçò ðÝñá áðü ýëç, äýíáìç êáé éåñü âïõíü, åßíáé êáé ç øõ÷Þ ôçò ÊñÞôçò. Ôá óçìåñéíÜ Áíþãåéá, äéáôçñïýí ôéò ðáôñïðáñÜäïôåò áñåôÝò ðïõ ôá äéáôÞñçóáí æùíôáíÜ óôïõò áéþíåò. ÌáãáæéÜ ðïëëÜ, õðïäïìÞ ôïõñéóôéêÞ, Üíèñùðïé ìðñïýóêïé, ÷áìïãåëáóôïß, áôüöéïé óáí ôá âïõíÜ ôïõò. ÅêêëçóéÝò, ðïëéôéóôéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò üëï ôï ÷ñüíï, ãëÝíôé, ëýñá, æùÞ. Áöïõãêñáóôåßôå ôïí Þ÷ï ôçò Éóôïñßáò, óåâáóôåßôå ôéò ìíÞìåò, ôá ìíçìåßá, óçìÜäéá ôùí ÷ñüíùí ðïõ ðÝñáóáí.

óôñáôéùôéêüò äéïéêçôÞò Öïí ÊñÜéðå ðñéí öõãáäåõôåß óôçí ÁöñéêÞ. Óå áíôßðïéíá, ïé Ãåñìáíïß óêüôùóáí üëïõò ôïõò Üíäñåò ðïõ âñÝèçêáí óôï ÷ùñéü êáé ôï êáôÝóôñåøáí ïëïó÷åñþò. ÌåôÜ ôçí áðåëåõèÝñùóç, ïé êÜôïéêïé ôï îáíÜ÷ôéóáí. Ôá Áíþãåéá åßíáé ï ôüðïò ôçò ìïõóéêÞò ôùí öåóôéâÜë. Ïé êÜôïéêïé äåß÷íïõí áðåñéüñéóôï óåâáóìü, óôïí ôïðéêü ðïëéôéóìü. Áð åäþ êáôÜãïíôáé ïé Îõëïýñçäåò, óçìáíôéêÞ ïéêïãÝíåéá ìïõóéêþí. Ç öùíÞ ôïõ Íßêïõ Îõëïýñç åßíáé ðáãêïóìßùò ãíùóôÞ. Ãýñù áðü ôï üíïìá êáé ôçí ðñïóöïñÜ ôïõ, áðëþíåôáé Ýíá óçìáíôéêü êßíçìá ðïëéôéóìïý. Åêäçëþóåéò, óõíáõëßåò, áöéåñþìáôá. Ôï èÝáôñï ôçò ðüëçò öÝñåé ôï üíïìÜ ôïõ. Ôï ÜãáëìÜ ôïõ äåóðüæåé óôï êÝíôñï ôçò. Ç ìïõóéêÞ ôïõ åßíáé áíôéêåßìåíï ëáôñåßáò. Íá ìçí îå÷Üóïõìå ìéá óçìáíôéêÞ ãåíéÜ ôïÏ Ãñõëëéüò, øõ÷Þ ôùí Áíùãåßùí Gryllios, the soul of Anogia

Ï äñüìïò áðü ôçí Áîü, óå öÝñíåé óôïí ðñþôï óõíïéêéóìü, óôï ãåìÜôï ðëáôÜíéá êáé íåñÜ Ðåñá÷þñé. Áêïëïõèåß ìåãÜëç áíçöïñéêÞ óôñïöÞ, ðïõ ïäçãåß óôï Áñìß, ôï êÝíôñï ôùí Áíùãåßùí êáé óôï ôåëåõôáßï åðßðåäï, ôï ãñáöéêü Ìåôü÷é. Ìíçìåßá êáé áãÜëìáôá, óçìÜäéá ôçò ìáêñáßùíçò äéáäñïìÞò óôï ÷ñüíï. Ôñéãýñù óå êõêëþíïõí ôá âïõíÜ, óå ìïíáäéêü åíáãêáëéóìü. Ïé Áíùãåéáíïß äéáöÝñïõí áðü ôïõò Üëëïõò Êñçôéêïýò. Äéáôçñïýí áíáëëïßùôç ôçí ðáñáäïóéáêÞ ìïñöÞ æùÞò, óôçí åíäõìáóßá, óôéò êïéíùíéêÝò åêäçëþóåéò. Ôï ÷ùñéü ðÞñå ìÝñïò óå üëïõò ôïõò áãþíåò ôçò ÊñÞôçò. ÊáôÜ ôï ´ Ðáãêüóìéï ðüëåìï, Þôáí óçìáíôéêÞ åóôßá áíôßóôáóçò. Åäþ êñáôÞèçêå áðü ôïõò áíôÜñôåò áðáãùãåßò ôïõ, ï Ãåñìáíüò

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íôÜ, óôïëßæïõí ôéò áõëÝò êáé ïìïñöáßíïõí ôá óðßôéá. Áðü ôï Ìåôü÷é, Üíåôïò áóöáëôïóôñùìÝíïò äñüìïò, ïäçãåß óôéò ðëáãéÝò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç. ÌåôÜ áðü ðåñßðïõ 6 ÷ëì. óôç èÝóç Æþìéíèïò, ðñüóöáôåò áíáóêáöÝò Ýöåñáí óôï öùò ìéíùéêÞ Ýðáõëç.

ðéêþí êáëëéôå÷íþí, ï Âáóßëçò ÓêïõëÜò, Íéêçöüñïò ÁåñÜêçò, ï Øáñáíôþíçò êáé ðïëëïß Üëëïé êáé ðïëëïß íÝïé, óõíå÷ßæïõí ôçí ðáñÜäïóç ôçò ÊñçôéêÞò ìïõóéêÞò. Ìáíôéíáäïëüãïé äçìéïõñãïýí êáé óõíå÷þò åîåëßóóïõí ôçí ìáíôéíÜäá, ôï õðÝñï÷ï äåßãìá ôçò ëáúêÞò, êñçôéêÞò ðïßçóçò.

ÌåôÜ áðü áíÜâáóç ðåñßðïõ 20 ðåñßðïõ ÷ëì., âñéóêüìáóôå óôç Íßäá, óôï êáôáðëçêôéêü ïñåéíü ôïðßï, êÜôù áðü ôç óêéÜ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç. Ôï ìíçìåßï ÁíôÜñôçò ôçò Ãåñìáíßäáò Êáôåñßíáò Ñåê, öôéáãìÝíï áðü 5000 ðÝôñåò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, áðïôåëåß öüñï ôéìÞò óôçí Áíôßóôáóç ôùí êáôïßêùí ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Ôï ôñáíü âïõíü ôùí Êñçôéêþí, åßíáé óõíäåìÝíï ìå ôç ëáôñåßá ôïõ Äßá.

“...ÌáäÜñåò ìïõ ×áíéþôéêåò, êïñöÞ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç êáé Ñåèåìíéþôéêá âïõíÜ, ãåéá óïõ ðáíôÝñìç ÊñÞôç. ¸÷å ìéêñÞ ìïõ õðïìïíÞ êé åãþ íá Ý÷ù åëðßäá. ¼óï ñéæþíåé ôï äåíôñü, áíèåß êáé âãÜíåé öýëëá...”

Ç ðáñÜäïóç èÝëåé ôçí ºäç íá åßíáé ôï ìÝñïò ðïõ ãåííÞèçêå êáé Ýæçóå ôá ðñþôá ôïõ ÷ñüíéá, ï ÐáôÝñáò ôùí Èåþí. Óýìöùíá ìå ôçí ðáñÜäïóç, åäþ ôïí Ýêñõøå ç ÑÝá, ãéá íá ôïí ðñïóôáôÝøåé áðü ôïí Êñüíï, ðïõ Ýôñùãå ôá ðáéäéÜ ôïõ, åðåéäÞ êáôÜ ôï ÷ñçóìü, Ýíá áð’ áõôÜ, èá ôïõ Ýðáéñíå ôçí åîïõóßá.

Ôï ÷ùñéü áðïôåëåß Ýíá áðü ôá ìåãáëýôåñá êÝíôñá ÷åéñïôå÷íßáò, ïéêïôå÷íßáò ôçò ÊñÞôçò. Ôá ðáñáãüìåíá åßäç, õøçëÞò áéóèçôéêÞò êáé ðïéüôçôáò, öÝñïõí ôç óöñáãßäá êáé ôéò êáôáâïëÝò ôçò íôüðéáò ðáñÜäïóçò. ÊåíôÞìáôá êáé õöá-

Äõï íýìöåò ôùí óðçëáßùí, ç ÁäñÜóôåéá êáé ç ºäç, áíÝëáâáí ôçí áíáôñïöÞ ôïõ ìùñïý. Ôï ôÜéæáí ìÝëé êáé ãÜëá, áðü ôçí êáôóßêá ÁìÜëèåéá. Ãéá íá ìçí ðñïäïèåß áðü ôéò öùíÝò ôïõ, ïé ÊïõñÞôåò êôõðïýóáí ôéò áóðßäåò ôïõò êáé ìå

Ôï Éäáßïí ¢íôñï êáé åõñÞìáôá áðï ôéò áíáóêáöÝò Áíùãåßùí Idaion Cave and findings from Anogeia

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Ôá Áíþãåéá ìåôÜ ôçí êáôáóôñïöÞ (áñ÷åßï ÄÞìïõ Áíùãåßùí) Anogia after the destruction (Anogia municipality archives)

ôï èüñõâï, êÜëõðôáí ôï êëÜìá. Ï ÷ïñüò ôùí Êïõñçôþí åßíáé ï ðñüãïíïò ôùí óçìåñéíþí êñçôéêþí ÷ïñþí. Ôï Éäáßï ¢íôñï, õðÞñîå êÝíôñï ëáôñåßáò áðü ôïõò ðñïúóôïñéêïýò êáé ñùìáúêïýò ÷ñüíïõò. Ôï óðÞëáéï, âñßóêåôáé ðÜíù óå åõñý÷ùñï ðëÜôùìá âñÜ÷ïõ, üðïõ ï ëáîåõìÝíïò ïñèïãþíéïò âùìüò ðïõ ðåñéâÜëëåôáé áðü ðåæïýëá ìå åëáöñÜ áìöéèåáôñéêÞ êëßóç, óêáëéóìÝíç êáé áõôÞ óôï âñÜ÷ï. Ôï åóùôåñéêü ôçò, ÷ùñßæåôáé óå ôñåéò èáëÜìïõò êáé ôï Üäõôï. Ç ìýçóç ôùí ðéóôþí, ãéíüôáí óôï âÜèïò ôïõ ¢íäñïõ. Ãýñù áðü ôï óðÞëáéï Ý÷ïõí áíáóêáöåß óêáëïðÜôéá óôï âñÜ÷ï êáé Ý÷ïõí âñåèåß ÷Üëêéíá áãÜëìáôá. Óôï óðÞëáéï âñÝèçêáí áíôéêåßìåíá áðü êüêêáëï êáé åëåöáíôüäïíôï, óéäåñÝíéá üðëá êáé åñãáëåßá, ÷Üëêéíá áãÜëìáôá, åéäþëéá, óêåýç, áíáèçìáôéêÝò áóðßäåò ìå óêçíÝò êõíçãéïý ôçò ðåñéüäïõ ôïõ 8ïõ êáé 7ïõ áéþíá. Áðü ôá åõñÞìáôá áõôÜ, âåâáéþíåôáé ç ðáñïõóßá ôïõ áíèñþðïõ óôç óðçëéÜ áðü ôïõò íåïëéèéêïýò ÷ñüíïõò. Ç ãÝííçóç êáé ï èÜíáôïò ôïõ Äßá õðïíïïýí ôçí åîáöÜíéóç ôçò öõôéêÞò æùÞò, ôï ×åéìþíá êáé ôçí

áíáãÝííçóç ôçò, ôçí ¢íïéîç. ÊÜèå ÷ñüíï ãéïñôÜæïíôáí ç ãÝííçóç ôïõ Äßá. Ðáñáëëçëßæåôáé ç öùôéÜ ðïõ Ýâãáéíå áðü ôï óðÞëáéï êáôÜ ôç ãéïñôÞ, ìå ôï öùò ôçò ÁíÜóôáóçò ôïõ ×ñéóôïý. Óôéò ãéïñôÝò áõôÝò ìõóôáãùãßáò, Ýñ÷ïíôáí êÜôïéêïé áðü üëç ôçí ÅëëÜäá ìå óçìáíôéêÜ äþñá êáé áöéåñþìáôá. Óôï éåñü áõôü ÓðÞëáéï, åñ÷üôáí ï Ìßíùáò êÜèå åííÝá ÷ñüíéá, ãéá íá áíáíåþóåé ôç èçôåßá ôïõ êáé íá ëÜâåé ïäçãßåò êáé ôïõò Èåßïõò íüìïõò. Áîßæåé íá åðéóêåöôïýìå ôï áóôåñïóêïðåßï óôï Óêßíáêá. Ï ïñåéíüò üãêïò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò åõíïåß ôçí êôçíïôñïößá. Áéãïðñüâáôá, ðïëëÝò ÷éëéÜäåò, âüóêïõí óôïí ïñåéíü üãêï ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç êáé ðáñÜãïõí ôï åêëåêôü ãÜëá, áðü ôï ïðïßï ãßíïíôáé ôá ðåñßöçìá ôõñïêïìéêÜ ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Ç ãñáâéÝñá, ôï êåöáëïôýñé, ç ìõæÞèñá, åêëåêôÜ ðñïúüíôá, öôéáãìÝíá ìå ôïí ðáñáäïóéáêü ôñüðï. Ãýñù áðü ôçí ðïéìåíéêÞ æùÞ áíáðôý÷èçêáí ìéá óåéñÜ áðü åêäçëþóåéò ðïõ áðïôåëïýí êïéíùíéêÜ ãåãïíüôá ìå åõñýôåñç áðÞ÷çóç. Ôï êïýñåìá ôùí ðñïâÜôùí ôïí Éïýíéï, ãßíåôáé ç áéôßá ãéá ôñáíü ãëÝíôé ìå öáãçôü, ðïôü, ÷ïñü, êÝöé. Óôéò ðëáãéÝò, ôá ìçôÜôá

ÑÝèõìíï 103


áðïôåëïýí áëçèéíÜ èáýìáôá ôçò áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞò. Ôá Áíþãéá, ìéá êïéíùíßá, æùíôáíÞ, öéëüîåíç èá óáò åíôõðùóéÜóåé. Óôçí êÜèïäï ðñïò ôï ÑÝèõìíï, äéáêëÜäùóç áñéóôåñÞ, ìáò ïäçãåß óôï ÷ùñéü ÆùíéáíÜ. ÊïíôÜ óôï ÷ùñéü âñßóêåôáé ôï óðÞëáéï «Ôñýðá ôïõ Óöåíäüíç». Ç áñôéüôçôá ôïõ ôïðßïõ åäþ, åßíáé öáíôáóôéêÞ. Áðü ôç ìéá ìåñéÜ, ôï óðÞëáéï ðëáéóéþíåôáé áðü èåüñáôïõò âñÜ÷ïõò, åíþ ìéêñÞ ðçãÞ êáé ç õðÝñï÷ç èÝá, óõìðëçñþíïõí ìéá ìïíáäéêÞ åéêüíá. Káé ôï ÓðÞëáéï åßíáé åíôõðùóéáêü. Óõíå÷ßæïìå ðåñíþíôáò áðü ôï ÷ùñéü ËéâÜäåéá. Ôï ÷ùñéü âñßóêåôáé óôç ìÝóç ëåêáíïðåäßïõ ìå äÝíôñá. ×ôßóôçêå ôïí 13ï áéþíá, üðùò öáßíåôáé êáé áðü ôçí åêêëçóßá ôïõ Åõáããåëéóìïý. Åßíáé áðü ôá ëßãá ÷ùñéÜ ðïõ äåí ðáôÞèçêáí áðü Ôïýñêïõò. Äéáó÷ßæïìå ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ùñéÜ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç êáé êáôáëÞãïìå óôï ÐÝñáìá. Åßíáé Ýäñá ôïõ ÄÞìïõ, êùìüðïëç ìå óçìáíôéêÞ õðïäïìÞ êáé ðáñáãùãéêÞ, êõñßùò óå ôõñïêï-

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ìéêÜ êáé êçðåõôéêÜ. Åäþ, ç ¸íùóç Ãåùñãéêþí Óõíåôáéñéóìþí ÌõëïðïôÜìïõ, ðáñÜãåé ëÜäé êáé ôõñïêïìéêÜ, åêëåêôÞò ðïéüôçôáò, ôá ïðïßá áîßæåé íá äïêéìÜóåôå.


Áîüò Óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ôïõ óçìåñéíïý ÷ùñéïý Áîüò, âñßóêïíôáí ç áñ÷áßá ðüëç ¼áîïò, ìéá áðü ôéò óçìáíôéêüôåñåò ðüëåéò ôçò áñ÷áßáò ÊñÞôçò ðïõ Þêìáóå áðü ôçí ÕóôåñïìéíùéêÞ êáé ÃåùìåôñéêÞ Ýùò ôç ÑùìáúêÞ êáé ôá õóôåñüôåñá ÷ñüíéá. Ç áñ÷áéïëïãéêÞ óêáðÜíç Ý÷åé öÝñåé óôï öùò ðëïýóéá õðïëåßììáôá ôçò áñ÷áßáò ðüëçò, áíÜìåóá óôá ïðïßá ï íáüò ôçò Áöñïäßôçò, ôï Ðñõôáíåßï, ôÜöïé êáé ðïéêßëá áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÜ êáôÜëïéðá. Åíôõðùóéáêü èá ðñÝðåé íá Þôáí êáé ôï ôåß÷ïò ôçò Aêñüðïëçò, ôìÞìáôá ôïõ ïðïßïõ åßíáé ïñáôÜ, áêüìá êáé óÞìåñá óôçí êïñöÞ ôïõ ëüöïõ. Ôéò áíáóêáöÝò îåêßíçóå ç ÉôáëéêÞ Áñ÷áéïëïãéêÞ Ó÷ïëÞ, ôï 1899, öÝñíïíôáò óôï öùò ðïéêßëá åõñÞìáôá, áíÜìåóá óôá ïðïßá ìéíùéêÜ üóôñáêá, ëßèéíá áããåßá, åðéãñáöÝò êáé ðïëëÜ åéäþëéá ðïõ áðåéêïíßæïõí ãõìíÞ ãõíáéêåßá ìïñöÞ ðïõ Ý÷åé åñìçíåõèåß ùò ÈåÜ ôçò ãïíéìüôçôáò. Åíôïðßóôçêáí åðßóçò õðïëåßììáôá êôéñßùí ôçò êëáóéêÞò åðï÷Þò ðÜíù óôá ïðïßá ïéêïäïìÞèçêáí õóôåñüôåñá êôßñéá, êõñßùò âõæáíôéíÝò åêêëçóßåò. Ç ðüëç óõíÝ÷éóå íá áêìÜæåé ôüóï óôç ñùìáúêÞ üóï êáé óôç âõæáíôéíÞ åðï÷Þ, êáôÜ ôçí ïðïßá ìÜëéóôá Þôáí Ýäñá åðéóêïðÞò êáé äéÝèåôå ðëçèþñá åêêëçóéþí. ��ôç èÝóç ËéâÜäá, ÂÁ ôïõ ÷ùñéïý, Ý÷ïõí Ýñèåé óôï öùò õðïëåßììáôá áñ÷áúêÞò åãêáôÜóôáóçò, ãåãïíüò ðïõ õðïäçëþíåé ôçí Ýêôáóç ôçò áñ÷áßáò Áîïý. ÓÞìåñá ç Áîüò, æùíôáíÞ êùìüðïëç, ðáíÝìïñöç, áðïôåëåß åíäéÜìåóç óôÜóç óôï ôáîßäé ðñïò Áíþãåéá. ÄéáèÝôåé ôáâÝñíåò êáé åîáéñåôéêÞ ìïíÜäá áãñïôïôïõñéóìïý, ôï ¸íáãñïí.

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ÑÝèõìíï 107


Âßëá ¼ëãá êáé âßëá Ãéþñãïò: éäáíéêü ìÝñïò ãéá ôïõò ëÜôñåéò ôçò öýóçò êáé ôïõò êáëïðåñáóÜêçäåò. Óå ìéá üìïñöç ôïðïèåóßá óôïí Ìõëïðïôáìï Ñåèõìíïõ, êïíôÜ óôï ðáñáäïóéáêï ÷ùñéü Áîïò. Ïé âßëåò ðñïóöÝñïõí ðåñßðïõ 100 ôåô.ì. ìå ÷þñï ãéá 4-6 Üôïìá êáé åßíáé ðáñáäïóéáêÝò êáé ðïëý êáëÜ åîïðëéóìÝíåò. Åêôüò áðï ôï êáèéóôéêü êáé ôçí êïõæßíá, õðáñ÷ïõí äýï õðíïäùìÜôéá êáé äýï ìðÜíéá óå êÜèå óðßôé. ÕðÜñ÷åé åðßóçò ìéá ðéóßíá óôïí êçðï. Ïé âéëåò Ý÷ïõí õðÝñï÷ç èÝá óôï øçëïôåñï âïõíï ôçò Êñçôçò, ôïí Øçëïñåßôç. Oros Villas Õðåýèõíïò: Jan de Bruyn E-mail: info@oros-villas.com Ôçë:+31 653 244966 Villa Olga and Villa Giorgos: they are an ideal place for nature lovers and the bon viveurs. At a beautiful place in Mylopotamos of Rethymnon, close to the traditional village of Axos. Villas offer about 100m2 with room for 4-6 people and they are traditional and very good equipped. Apart from the living room and the kitchen, there are two bedrooms and two bathrooms in each villa. In the garden there is also a swimming pool and the villas have great view at the highest mountain of Crete, Mount Psiloritis. Oros Villas Responsible person: Jan de Bruyn E-mail: info@oros-villas.com Tel.: +31 653 244 966

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Ìåëéäüíé

H ðáñïõóßá ôïõ Ìåëéäïíßïõ óôï ÷þñï åßíáé óõíäåìÝíç ìå ôï óðÞëáéï ôïõ, ôï Ãåñïíôüóðçëéï. Ïé áíáóêáöÝò óôï óðÞëáéï áðÝäåéîáí üôé åß÷å êáôïéêçèåß áðü ôïí ðñïúóôïñéêü Üíèñùðï, ìåôÜ Ýãéíå éåñü ðïõ ëáôñåýôçêå ï Ãßãáíôáò-öýëáêáò ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ÔÜëùò, êáé ìåôÜ, üðùò ìáñôõñåß ç åðéãñáöÞ ôçò åéóüäïõ ôïõ óðçëáßïõ, ëáôñåýôçêå ï “Ôáëáßïò ÅñìÞò”. ÊáôÜ ôçí åðáíÜóôáóç ôïõ 1821, ôï Ìåëéäüíé åêðñïóùðÞèçêå åðÜîéá áðü ôïõò áäåëöïýò Ìåëéäüíç, ôïí Ãéþñãç, ôïí Áíôþíç êáé ôïí Çëßá. Ï ×áóÜí ÐáóÜò áðïâéâÜóôçêå óôç Óïýäá óôéò 28 ÌáÀïõ 1822 êáé êéíÞèçêå ôá÷ýôáôá ðñïò áíáôïëÜò, öèÜíïíôáò óôï Ìåëéäüíé. Óôéò áñ÷Ýò ôïõ Ïêôþâñç ôïõ 1823, öôÜíåé óôï Ìåëéäüíé êáé óôñáôïðåäåýåé ìå íÝï áñ÷çãü,ôïí ×ïõóåÀí ÌðÝç. Ïé Ìåëéäïíéþôåò, 370 ãõíáéêüðáéäá êáé 30 ðïëåìéóôÝò êëåßíïíôáé óôï óðÞëáéï. Ï ×ïõóåÀí ìáèáßíåé ôïí ôüðï êáé ôïí áðïêëåßåé, æçôþíôáò áðü ôïõò Ìåëéäïíéþôåò íá ðáñáäïèïýí. Ç áðÜíôçóç Þôáí “ÈÜíáôïò, ü÷é õðïôáãÞ”. Ï áðïêëåéóìüò äéÞñêåóå ôñåßò ìÞíåò ðïõ ðÝñáóáí ìå áíåëÝçôåò åöüäïõò, åðéèÝóåéò êáé ôå÷íÜóìáôá ÷ùñßò áðïôÝëåóìá. Ôï äñÜìá ôùí Ýãêëåéóôùí êïñõöþíåôáé óôéò 24 Éáíïõáñßïõ ôïõ 1824.

Ï ×ïõóåÀí êëåßíåé ôçí åßóïäï ôïõ óðçëáßïõ ìå êáðíïãüíá õëéêÜ (Ü÷õñá, ëÜäéá, ðõñÞíåò) âÜæåé öùôéÜ êáé áðü ôïõò êáðíïýò, âñßóêïõí öñéêôü èÜíáôï ïé 400 áðïêëåéóìÝíïé. ÌåôÜ áðü ìÝñåò, ìðÞêáí óôç óðçëéÜ êáé óýëçóáí ôá ðôþìáôá. Ç ðñïóöïñÜ ôïõ Ìåëéäïíßïõ óôéò åðáíáóôÜóåéò ðïõ áêïëïýèçóáí ó’ üëç ôç äéÜñêåéá ôïõ 19ïõ áéþíá, äåí õðïëåßðåôáé ôùí áãþíùí êáíåíüò ìÝñïõò ôçò ÊñÞôçò Þ ôçò ÅëëÜäáò. Ç åðéëïãÞ ìÜëéóôá ôïõ Ìåëéäïíßïõ ùò Ýäñá ôïõ ÄÞìïõ áëëÜ êáé ùò Ýäñá ôçò “ÃåíéêÞò ÅðáíáóôáôéêÞò Óõíåëåýóåùò ôùí Êñçôþí” áðü ôéò 13 Ýùò 17 Ïêôùâñßïõ 1897, êáôÜ ôçí ïðïßá áðïöáóßóôçêå ç áõôïíïìßá ôçò ÊñÞôçò, óßãïõñá äåí Þôáí ôõ÷áßá. Ìåëéäïíéþôåò ðïëÝìçóáí åðßóçò óôçí Ì. Áóßá áëëÜ êáé óôçí ÌÜ÷ç ôçò ÊñÞôçò, êáèþò êáé óôçí ÅèíéêÞ Áíôßóôáóç. Ôï óðÞëáéï ðáßæåé óÞìåñá ðñùôáñ÷éêü ñüëï óôç æùÞ ôïõ ÷ùñéïý, áöïý ëüãï ôçò éóôïñßáò ôïõ áëëÜ êáé ôïõ óðçëáéïëïãéêïý åíäéáöÝñïíôüò ôïõ, áðïôåëïýí ðüëï Ýëîçò ðïëëþí åðéóêåðôþí, ÅëëÞíùí êáé áëëïäáðþí. Íá óçìåþóïõìå üôé õðÜñ÷åé äñáóôÞñéïò ðïëéôéóôéêüò óýëëïãïò, ìå ðëÞèïò åêäçëþóåùí.

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Ðñïò ôç ÌïíÞ ÂùóóÜêïõ õøþíåôáé êáé ï íáüò. ÊáôáóôñÜöçêå äýï öïñÝò áðü ôïõò Ôïýñêïõò, ôï 1646 êáé ôï 1821. Óôç äåêáåôßá ôïõ 1950 åñçìþèçêå åíôåëþò.

Áðï ôï ÐÝñáìá, áêïëïõèþíôáò ôçí ðáëéÜ ÅèíéêÞ ïäü, ìå êáôåýèõíóç ðñïò ÇñÜêëåéï, óõíáíôÜìå ðïëëÜ ìéêñÜ ÷ùñéÜ, ðïõ Üëëïôå Ýóöõæáí áðü æùÞ. Ï íÝïò ïäéêüò Üîïíáò üìùò, âïÞèçóå óôçí åñÞìùóç ôïõò. ÏõóéáóôéêÜ, ïé ïéêéóìïß áõôïß åßíáé ôá ðáëéÜ “×Üíéá”, ðïõ åîõðçñåôïýóáí ôïõò ôáîéäéþôåò ôïõ ÌÝóá Ìõëïðüôáìïõ. Óõíáíôïýìå ôá ÁðëáäéáíÜ êáé ìåôÜ ôá ×åëéáíÜ. Óôá ×åëéáíÜ, õðÜñ÷åé êáé ï êáôÜãñáöïò íáüò ôïõ Áãßïõ Ãåùñãßïõ. Ï äñüìïò, ìáò ïäçãåß óôï ïñïðÝäéï ðïõ âñßóêåôáé ç ÌïíÞ ÂùóóÜêïõ, ôï éóôïñéêü ìïíáóôÞñé ìå ôç öñïõñéáêÞ õðïäïìÞ. Ôï ìïíáóôÞñé åßíáé áöéåñùìÝíï óôïí Ôßìéï Óôáõñü. Óôçí åðéãñáöÞ ôçò åéóüäïõ ôïõ íáïý, áíáöÝñåôáé üôé ÷ôßóôçêå ôï 1195 áëëÜ êáôáóôñÜöçêå 2 öïñÝò. Ï óçìåñéíüò íáüò åßíáé óýã÷ñïíïò êáé ïéêïäïìÞèçêå óôï ôÝëïò ôïõ 19ïõ áé. Ôï ìïíáóôÞñé Ý÷åé ðáñáëëçëüãñáììç êÜôïøç, ìå ôá êôßóìáôá íá áíáðôýóóïíôáé ãýñù áðü êåíôñéêÞ áõëÞ, üðïõ

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Ç äéáäñïìÞ ðáñïõóéÜæåé åîáéñåôéêü ãåùëïãéêü åíäéáöÝñïí. Ç ìåãÜëç ðïéêéëßá ôùí áóâåóôïëéèéêþí ðåôñùìÜôùí ìáñôõñÜ ìéá éóôïñßá 250 åê. åôþí. Áêïëïõèïýìå ôçí áíôßèåôç öïñÜ êáé öôÜíïìå óôç ÄñïóéÜ Þ ôï Ãåíß ÃêáâÝ ìå ôïí áéùíüâéï ðëÜôáíï êáé ôá íåñÜ. Åäþ, õðÜñ÷ïõí êáé ôáâÝñíåò ðïõ ðñïóöÝñïõí ãïõñïõíüðïõëï óïýâëáò.


Ìáñãáñßôåò 25 ÷ëì. áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï, óôç âïñåéïäõôéêÞ ðëåõñÜ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, êïõñíéÜæïõí ïé éóôïñéêÝò Ìáñãáñßôåò, ÷ôéóìÝíåò óå ðáñáäåéóÝíéï ôïðßï áíÜìåóá óå åëéÝò, ÷áñïõðéÝò êáé êõðáñßóóéá. Ç ãåùñãéêÞ ôïõò èÝóç åßíáé ðñïíïìéáêÞ. Áãíáíôåýïõí ôï Êñçôéêü ÐÝëáãïò, óôï âÜèïò. ÄéáèÝôåé åýêïëç ðñüóâáóç óôçí åèíéêÞ ïäü êáé ôçí ðüëç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Ç ðñþôç ìáñôõñçìÝíç êáôïßêçóç áíÜãåôáé óôïõò ìéíùéêïýò ÷ñüíïõò, ôï 1455 ð.X. Ç ðåñéï÷Þ âñéóêüôáí êáôÜ ôçí áñ÷áéüôçôá óôç óöáßñá åðéññïÞò ôçò Åëåýèåñíáò. Ôï 1332 õðÞñîå êÝíôñï åðáíÜóôáóçò ôïõ ÊáëëÝñãç êáôÜ ôùí Åíåôþí. ÁìÝóùò ìåôÜ ôçí êáôáóôïëÞ ôçò åðáíÜóôáóçò, ôï ÷ùñéü, êáôáóôñÝöåôáé ïëïó÷åñþò êáé áìÝóùò Üñ÷éóå ç áíïéêïäüìçóç ôïõ. Ôüôå êôßóôçêáí ðåñßöçìåò åêêëçóéÝò, ðýñãïé êáé âßëåò. Ôïí

17ï áéþíá áðïôÝëåóå ôçí ðáôñéáñ÷éêÞ åîáñ÷ßá Ìáñãáñéôþí êáé õðáãüôáí áðåõèåßáò óôïí ÐáôñéÜñ÷ç Êùíóôáíôéíïõðüëåùò. ÊáôÜ ôçí åêðíïÞ ôçò ÅëëçíéêÞò åðáíáóôÜóåùò ôï 1829-30, Þôáí Ýäñá Åðáíáóôáôéêïý óõìâïõëßïõ. Áðü åäþ, óôÜëèçêáí ïé áãùíéþäåéò åðéóôïëÝò ôùí åðáíáóôáôþí óôéò ìåãÜëåò äõíÜìåéò êáé ôéò êáëïýóáí íá äïõí åõíïúêÜ, ôï êñçôéêü æÞôçìá. Åäþ ãåííÞèçêå ï ÃáâñéÞë ÌáñéíÜêçò, ï çãïýìåíïò ôçò ÌïíÞò Áñêáäßïõ óôïí îåóçêùìü êáé ôï ïëïêáýôùìá ôïõ 1866. Ïé Ìáñãáñßôåò üìùò åßíáé äéåèíþò ãíùóôÝò ãéá ôçí êåñáìéêÞ ôïõò ôÝ÷íç, ðïõ áíèåß áäéÜêïðá áðü ôçí áñ÷áéüôçôá ìÝ÷ñé óÞìåñá. Áíèåß êáé óÞìåñá ç áããåéïðëáóôéêÞ ôÝ÷íç óôá åñãáóôÞñéá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý. Ðáëéïß êáé íÝïé áããåéïðëÜóôåò, äçìéïõñãïýí åîáßóéá áíôéêåßìåíá ÷ñçóôéêÜ Þ äéáêïóìçôéêÜ.

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Ôï ÷ùñéü åßíáé ðüëïò Ýëîçò ÷éëéÜäùí åðéóêåðôþí, ôüóï ãéá ôçí êåñáìéêÞ ôïõ ðáñÜäïóç, üóï êáé ãéá ôéò ôïé÷ïãñáöçìÝíåò ôïõ åêêëçóßåò, ôá õðÝñï÷á óïêÜêéá êáé ôç ãñáöéêÞ öýóç ðïõ ôï ðåñéâÜëëåé. Ôï ìïíáóôÞñé ôïõ ÓùôÞñá ×ñéóôïý óêáñöáëùìÝíï óå ëüöï óôçí áñ÷Þ ôïõ ÷ùñéïý äåóðüæåé ìå ôïõò êÞðïõò ôïõ êáé ôçí õðÝñï÷ç èÝá. ÊÜèå ÷ñüíï óôéò Ìáñãáñßôåò, ãßíïíôáé ðïëëÝò åêäçëþóåéò ìå ðñþôåò «Ôá ÌáãáñéêÜ», äéåèíÝò öåóôéâÜë ãéá ôçí êåñáìéêÞ ôÝ÷íç êáé ôá «BUDALIA», ìéá íåáíéêÞ ðáñÜóôáóç. Ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá äçìéïõñãåßôáé ôïõñéóôéêÞ õðïäïìÞ, éêáíÞ íá öéëïîåíÞóåé Üíåôá óçìáíôéêü áñéèìü åðéóêåðôþí. Ìéá óýíôïìç ðåñéÞãçóç óôïõò ãåéôïíéêïýò ðåôñüêôéóôïõò ïéêéóìïýò ôùí Ìáñãáñéôþí, èá ìáò áðïæçìéþóåé. Íüôéá ôùí Ìáñãáñéôþí, ï äñüìïò ðåñíÜ áðü ðáñèÝíá äÜóç êáé êáëëéåñãÞóéìåò åêôÜóåéò êáé öôÜíåé óôçí áñ÷áßá ðüëç

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Åëåýèåñíá êáé óôï óýã÷ñïíï ïéêéóìü Åëåýèåñíá. Áðü åäþ, ìðïñïýìå íá êáôåõèõíèïýìå óôá ÷ùñéÜ ôïõ Áìáñßïõ êáé ôçò ÐÜíù Ñßæáò, åßôå íá åðéóôñÝøïìå óôá ÷ùñéÜ Ñïýðåò, Óêïõëïýöéá êáé íá öôÜóïìå óôç ÂéñÜí ÅðéóêïðÞ êáé ôçí Ðáëáéï÷ñéóôéáíéêÞ âáóéëéêÞ ôçò. ÄåîéÜ, êáôåõèõíüìáóôå óôï ÷ùñéü ÁëöÜ, üðïõ ãßíåôáé ç åðåîåñãáóßá ôçò ðåñßöçìçò ðÝôñáò, ðïõ õðÜñ÷åé åäþ. Áðü ôïýôï ôï ìÝñïò êáôÜãïíôáí ï Êþóôáò ÌïõíôÜêçò, ï ðåñßöçìïò ËõñÜñçò êáé ôñáãïõäéóôÞò. Ï äñüìïò óõíå÷ßæåé ðñïò ôç ËáãêÜ ìå ôçí Ðáíáãßá ôç ËáãêéáíÞ êáé ôç ìéêñÞ ëáïãñáöéêÞ óõëëïãÞ ðïõ óôåãÜæåôáé óôçí áßèïõóá ôïõ Ó÷ïëåßïõ.


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Öýóç êáé äéáäñïìÝò óôéò Ìáñãáñßôåò Ãíùñßóôå ôá äñïìÜêéá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý, åðéóêåöèåßôå ôéò åêêëçóßåò, áíåâåßôå óôï ìïíáóôÞñé êáé óôç óõíÝ÷åéá äéáëÝîôå ôï êáöåíåßï ðïõ èá ðéåßôå ôïí êáöÝ, ôï áíáøõêôéêü Þ ôçí ôóéêïõäéÜ óáò. Äåßôå ôç èÜëáóóá áðü ìáêñéÜ, ñåìâÜóôå, áãïñÜóôå êåñáìéêÜ, êé áí óáò âñåé ôï ìåóçìÝñé, öÜôå óå ìßá áðü ôéò ðïëëÝò ôáâÝñíåò ôïõ ÷ùñéïý. ¼óïé áãáðïýí ôéò äéáäñïìÝò óôç öýóç, áò êáôÝâïõí óôï Ëáãêü, ôï öáñÜããé ôïõ ÷ùñéïý. Êáôçöïñßæïíôáò áð’ ôç êåíôñéêÞ ðëáôåßá, ðåñðáôÞóåôå óôï ìïíïðÜôé Å4 ðïõ êáôáëÞãåé óôçí ÅëëçíéóôéêÞ ÃÝöõñá ôçò Åëåýèåñíáò. Óôç äéáäñïìÞ, èá óõíáíôÞóåôå åéäõëëéáêÝò ôïðïèåóßåò êáé óðÜíéá åßäç öõôþí. ¼óïé äåí åßíáé ëÜôñåéò ôçò ðåæïðïñßáò, áò áðïëáýóïõí ôç èÝá ôïõ öáñáããéïý áðü ôï ðÜñêï ìå ôá ðáãêÜêéá ðïõ õðÜñ÷åé óôá íüôéá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý. ÐáñáêïëïõèÞóôå ñåìâÜæïíôáò ôï çëéïâáóßëåìá ôùí Ìáñãáñéôþí. Áí óáò âñåé ôï âñÜäõ, ìðïñåßôå íá äéáíõêôåñåýóåôå óå êÜðïéï áðü ôá åíïéêéáæüìåíá äùìÜôéá Þ äéáìåñßóìáôá ðïõ õðÜñ÷ïõí óôï ÷ùñéü.

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Åëåýèåñíá Ïé áíáóêáöÝò óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ôçò Åëåýèåñíáò, îåêßíçóáí ðñéí 16 ÷ñüíéá, ôï 1985, üôáí ï ôïìÝáò Áñ÷áéïëïãßáò êáé Éóôïñßáò ôçò ÔÝ÷íçò ôïõ Ðáíåðéóôçìßïõ ÊñÞôçò, áðïöÜóéóå íá åñåõíÞóåé êáé íá öÝñåé óôï öùò ôç ãíùóôÞ áðü ôéò öéëïëïãéêÝò ìáñôõñßåò, áñ÷áßá ðüëç. ÌéêñÞò Ýêôáóçò Ýñåõíá, åß÷å ðñáãìáôïðïéçèåß óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ êáé ôï 1929 áðü ôçí ÂñåôáíéêÞ Áñ÷áéïëïãéêÞ Ó÷ïëÞ, õðü ôç äéåýèõíóç ôïõ H. Payne. Ôá êáôÜëïéðá Ý÷ïõí áðïêáëõöèåß óôçí åõñýôåñç ðåñéï÷Þ ôùí äýï óýã÷ñïíùí ãåéôïíéêþí ÷ùñéþí, Åëåýèåñíá êáé Áñ÷áßá Åëåýèåñíá, ðïõ âñßóêïíôáé óôïõò âüñåéïõò ðñüðïäåò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç êáé óå áðüóôáóç 24 êáé 29 ÷ëì. áíôßóôïé÷á, áðü

ôçí ðüëç ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Ðéï óõãêåêñéìÝíá, ôá óçìáíôéêüôåñá åõñÞìáôá, Ý÷ïõí åíôïðéóèåß óå ôñåéò èÝóåéò åíüò ëüöïõ «ôïðïèåôçìÝíïõ» áíÜìåóá óå äýï óõãêëßíïíôåò ÷åßìáññïõò: óôç èÝóç ÏñèÞ ÐÝôñá óôç äõôéêÞ ðëåõñÜ ôïõ ëüöïõ, óôç èÝóç Ðõñãß, óôï êÝíôñï ôïõ ëüöïõ êáé óôç èÝóç ÊáôóéâÝëïò, óôçí áíáôïëéêÞ ðëåõñÜ ôïõ ëüöïõ. ÓçìáíôéêÜ åßíáé åðßóçò ôá åõñÞìáôá ðïõ Ý÷ïõí áðïêáëõöèåß óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ Íçóß, êïíôÜ óôï óýã÷ñïíï ÷ùñßï Åëåýèåñíá êáé ðïõ ðåñéëáìâÜíïõí êõñßùò õðïëåßììáôá ïéêéóìïý ôçò åëëçíéóôéêÞò ðåñéüäïõ. Óôç èÝóç ÏñèÞ ÐÝôñá, ç áíáóêáöéêÞ ïìÜäá ìå åðéêåöáëÞò ôïí áñ÷áéïëüãï, êáèçãçôÞ ê. Í. Óôáìðïëßäç, Ý÷åé öÝñåé

Åñåßðéá ôçò ðáëáéï÷ñéóôéáíéêÞò ÂáóéëéêÞò óôçí Åëåýèåñíá Ruins of early Christian basilica in Eleftherna

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Åëåýèåñíá: óðáñÜãìáôá ìéÜò ôñáíÞò ðïëéôåßáò Eleftherna: Fragments of a powerful state

óôï öùò íåêñüðïëç ôùí ãåùìåôñéêþí êáé áñ÷áúêþí ÷ñüíùí, êáèþò êáé åëëçíéóôéêÜ, ñùìáúêÜ êôßñéá êáé äñüìïõò ðïõ ïéêïäïìÞèçêáí ðÜíù óôá ðñïãåíÝóôåñá. Óôç èÝóç Ðõñãß, óôçí êïñõöÞ ôïõ ëüöïõ, üðïõ êáé ôïðïèåôåßôáé ï êåíôñéêüò ïéêéóôéêüò ðõñÞíáò ôçò ðüëçò, ï áñ÷áéïëüãïò, êáèçãçôÞò ê. Áè. ÊáëðáîÞò Ý÷åé áðïêáëýøåé ôìÞìáôá êôéñßùí ôùí ñùìáúêþí êáé ðáëáéï÷ñéóôéáíéêþí ÷ñüíùí, åíþ óôá áíáôïëéêÜ ôïõ ëüöïõ,

óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ôïõ óçìåñéíïý ÷ùñéïý «Áñ÷áßá Åëåýèåñíá», ï áñ÷áéïëüãïò êáèçãçôÞò ê. Ð. ÈÝìåëçò Ý÷åé áíáóêÜøåé ìÝñïò ôïõ ïéêéóìïý óå üëåò ôéò ÷ñïíïëïãéêÝò ôïõ öÜóåéò, áðü ôá ðñïúóôïñéêÜ Ýùò êáé ôá ðáëáéï÷ñéóôéáíéêÜ ÷ñüíéá. Óôç èÝóç ôçò áíáóêáöÞò ôïõ êáè. Ð. ÈÝìåëç, Ý÷ïõí áðïêáëõöèåß åëëçíéóôéêïß áíáëçììáôéêïß ôïß÷ïé, ñùìáúêÜ êôßñéá êáé ëïõôñÜ, êáèþò êáé ôñßêëéôç ðáëáéï÷ñéóôéáíéêÞ âáóéëéêÞ ìå íÜñèçêá êáé èáõìÜóéï øçöéäùôü äéÜêïóìï ðïõ áðïäßäåé ãåùìåôñéêÜ êáé öõôéêÜ ìïôßâá.

ÕðÝñï÷á ìùóáéêÜ áðï ôïí áñ÷áéïëïãéêü ÷þñï Magnificent mosaics from the archaelogical site

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ÑÝèõìíï - Âñýóéíáò - ÊïéëÜäá Áìáñßïõ Ôï ÁìÜñé ðåñéëáìâÜíåé Ýíá óýíïëï áðü óáñÜíôá ðåñßðïõ ÷ùñéÜ, áíÜìåóá óôïí Øçëïñåßôç êáé ôï üñïò KÝäñïò. ÏõóéáóôéêÜ, ðñüêåéôáé ãéá äõü êïéëÜäåò, ðïõ ÷ùñßæïíôáé áðü ôï Ýíá ðáíÝìïñöï âïõíü. ×Üñç óôçí ïìïñöéÜ ôïõ ôïðßïõ êáé ôï ðïëý êáëü êëßìá, ôï ÁìÜñé Þôáí êáôÜ ôçí Åíåôïêñáôßá ôüðïò áíáøõ÷Þò ôçò áñéóôïêñáôßáò. ÐáñÜëëçëá üìùò, Þôáí áóöáëÝò êáé öéëüîåíï êáôáöýãéï ôùí åðáíáóôáôþí, óå äéÜöïñåò ðåñéüäïõò ôçò ÊñçôéêÞò éóôïñßáò. Áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï áêïëïõèïýìå ôï äñüìï ðñïò Ìéóßñéá, êáé ýóôåñá äéáêëÜäùóç äåîéÜ. Ï äñüìïò ìáò öÝñíåé óôï ×ñùìïíáóôÞñé, ÷ùñéü áðü ôá ìåãáëýôåñá ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò åðß Åíåôïêñáôßáò. Óôï Ìåôü÷é Ðåñäßêç âñßóêåôáé ç óçìáíôéêüôáôç åêêëçóßá ôïõ Áãßïõ Åõôõ÷ßïõ, ìå ôïé÷ïãñáößåò ôïõ 11ïõ áéþíá. ÌåôÜ ôéò ÐñáóÝò ìå ôçí õðÝñï÷ç èÝá êáé ôïí Øçëïñåßôç óôï âÜèïò, ðåñíïýìå ôçí ðåñßöçìç ðÝôñéíç ãÝöõñá ìå ôéò ôñåéò êáìÜñåò. Ðßóù ìáò, äéáãñÜöåôáé

ôï Ðñáóáíü ÖáñÜããé. Ï äñüìïò áãêáëéÜæåé ôï âïõíü Âñýóéíá êáé ïäçãåß óôá ÷ùñéÜ Ìýñèéï, Óåëß, ÊáñÝò. Ôï üñïò Âñýóéíáò âñßóêåôáé íüôéá ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, ìå õøüìåôñï 858 ì. Ïé ðëáãéÝò ôïõ åßíáé êáôÜöõôåò, ÷Üñç óôéò ðïëëÝò ðçãÝò (âñýóåò), áðü üðïõ ðÞñå êáé ôï üíïìÜ ôïõ. Áðü ôçí êùíïåéäÞ êïñõöÞ ôïõ, öáßíåôáé üëç ç Åðáñ÷ßá Ñåèýìíïõ êáé ôá 21 ÷ùñéÜ ðïõ åßíáé êïõñíéáóìÝíá ãýñù ôïõ. Ëüãù ôçò èÝóçò ôïõ, õðÞñîå ðåäßï ðïëëþí ìá÷þí êáôÜ ôïõò áðåëåõèåñùôéêïýò áãþíåò. ¹ôáí éåñü ¼ñïò êáé óôçí êïñõöÞ ôïõ, óôç èÝóç ôïõ óçìåñéíïý Áãßïõ Ðíåýìáôïò, õðÞñ÷å éåñü áöéåñùìÝíï óôç ãõíáéêåßá èåüôçôá ÁñôÝìéäá - Äßêôõííá. Óõíå÷ßæïìå êáé öôÜíïìå óôïõò ðïôáìïýò, ìå ôçí ôå÷íçôÞ ëßìíç êáé ôï öñÜãìá ôçò. Ç äéáäñïìÞ ãýñù áðü ôç ëßìíç åßíáé ìáãåõôéêÞ. Óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ôçò Ðáôóïý, âñßóêåôáé ôï óðÞëáéï ôïõ Áãßïõ Áíôùíßïõ. Óôçí áñ÷áéüôçôá, ëáôñåõü-

×áñáêôçñéóôéêÞ ãÝöõñá óôï ÁìÜñé - A typical bridge in Amari

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ôáí ï ÅñìÞò Êñáíáßïò. Ï áóöáëôïóôñùìÝíïò äñüìïò öôÜíåé óôï ÷ùñéü Áðïóôüëïé. ¸÷åé ðïëëÝò åêêëçóßåò, üðùò ôïõ Áãßïõ ÍéêïëÜïõ ìå ôïé÷ïãñáößåò ôïõ 14ïõ áéþíá. ÌåôÜ áðü 1 ÷ëì, âñßóêåôáé ç Áãßá ÖùôåéíÞ ðïõ åßíáé óõãêïéíùíéáêüò êüìâïò. Åäþ õðÜñ÷åé óõíåôáéñéóìüò ðïõ êáëëéåñãåß êáé ðñïóöÝñåé ðïëý êáëÜ ðáñáäïóéáêÜ ðñïúüíôá. Áêïëïõèþíôáò ôï äñüìï äåîéÜ, öôÜíïìå óôá ÷ùñéÜ ÌÝñùíá ìå ðïëëÜ íåñÜ êáé åîáßóéåò åêêëçóßåò, ìå óðÜíéåò ôïé÷ïãñáößåò ôïõ 14ïõ áéþíá. Ôï ÷ùñéü äéáèÝôåé îåíþíá ìå üëåò ôéò áíÝóåéò êáé ðéóßíá. Ôï ÃåñáêÜñé åßíáé ÷ôéóìÝíï óå õøüìåôñï 680 ìÝôñùí, óôïõò ðñüðïäåò ôïõ âïõíïý, åýöïñï êáé ðáñáãùãéêü. Öçìßæåôáé ãéá ôá êåñÜóéá ôïõ. Áðü ôçí Áãßá ÖùôåéíÞ, ï äñüìïò ïäçãåß óôï ÷ùñéü Èñüíïò. Ôï ÷ùñéü âñßóêåôáé óå ýøùìá ìå êáôáðëçêôéêÞ èÝá ðñïò ôïí Øçëïñåßôç, åíþ óôá ðüäéá ôïõ õøþíåôáé ç êáôáðñÜóéíç êïéëÜäá ôïõ Áìáñßïõ. Åäþ õðÞñ÷å ç Áñ÷áßá Óýâñéôïò, ÷ôéóìÝíç óå äéáöïñåôéêÜ åðßðåäá. ÓçìáíôéêÞ ðüëç, Ýêïâå äéêÜ ôçò íïìßóìáôá. Åðßíåéï ôçò ç Áñ÷áßá Óïõëßá, ç óçìåñéíÞ Áãßá ÃáëÞíç. Óå öõóéêÞ ôïðïèåóßá åîáéñåôéêÞò ïìïñöéÜò óôï ìÝóï ôçò êïéëÜäáò, êáôÜöõôç áðü åëéÝò, áìðÝëéá, åõêáëýðôïõò, åßíáé ç MïíÞ Áóù-

ìÜôùí. Éäñýèçêå ôïí 10ï áéþíá êáé åßíáé áöéåñùìÝíç óôïõò ÔáîéÜñ÷åò. Ïé ôïýñêïé Ýêáøáí ôï ìïíáóôÞñé ôï 1821. Óôï êáèïëéêü ôçò ìïíÞò, óþæïíôáé åéêüíåò óçìáíôéêÝò ôïõ 1619 êáé ôïõ 1755. Óçìáíôéêü ÷ùñéü ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò åßíáé ï ÖïõñöïõñÜò. ¼ìïñöï, êáôáðñÜóéíï ÷ùñéü óôïõò ðñüðïäåò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç ìïéÜæåé óáí öñïýñéï. Áîéüëïãç åßíáé ç Ðáíáãßá ç Êáñäéþôéóóá, ìå ìïíáóôÞñé ìå èáõìÜóéåò ôïé÷ïãñáößåò. Ï äñüìïò óõíå÷ßæåé óôéò Êïõñïýôåò. Åäþ, óôïõò ðñüðïäåò ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç, ïé ÊïõñÞôåò áíÜèñåøáí ôï Äßá. Áð’ åäþ, ôï Êáëïêáßñé îåêéíïýí ïìÜäåò ïñåéâáóßáò ãéá ôçí êïñöÞ ôïõ Øçëïñåßôç ôïí Ôßìéï Óôáõñü. Ëßãï ðéï êÜôù, õðÜñ÷åé ç Íßèáõñç, ÷ùñéü ðïõ êáôïéêÞèçêå ôï 2ï áéþíá. Óõíå÷ßæïíôáò óôï 55ï ÷ëì., åßíáé ôï ÷ùñéü Áðïäïýëïõ, ìå ðçãáßá íåñÜ êáé âëÜóôçóç. ÊïíôÜ óôï ÷ùñéü áíáêáëýöôçêå èïëùôüò ôÜöïò, ìåóïìéíùéêÞò åðï÷Þò ìå ôÝóóåñéò óáñêïöÜãïõò. ÂñÝèçêå ïßêçìá ìå ÷ñõóü ðÝëåêõ êáé åíåðßãñáöá óêåýç óðïíäþí. Áêïëïõèåß ôï õðÝñï÷ï ÷ùñéü ÐëÜôáíïò, Ëï÷ñéÜ, ÊáìÜñåò. Ï äñüìïò óå ïäçãåß óôçí Áãßá ÃáëÞíç.

Ç ëßìíç Ðïôáìþí Potamon Lake

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ÑÝèõìíï - ÅðéóêïðÞ - Áñãõñïýðïëç

Ðáñáëßá ÅðéóêïðÞò- Episkopi beach

Ìéá ìéêñÞ äéáäñïìÞ ìå óçìáíôéêÝò öõóéêÝò ïìïñöéÝò êáé óðïõäáßá éóôïñéêÜ ìíçìåßá, ëßãá ÷éëéüìåôñá áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï. Áêïëïõèïýìå ôï äñüìï ðñïò ôá ×áíéÜ. 15 ðåñßðïõ ÷éëéüìåôñá áðü ôçí ðüëç, óõíáíôïýìå ôçí ðáñáëßá ôïõ ÐåôñÝ, ìéêñÞ, ðáíÝìïñöç êáé áìÝóùò ìåôÜ, ôç ìåãÜëç ðáñáëßá ôçò EðéóêïðÞò. ÐáíÝìïñöåò, ïñãáíùìÝíåò ðáñáëßåò, ìå åóôéáôüñéá êáé áñêåôÜ åíïéêéáæüìåíá äùìÜôéá. ÄåîéÜ ðáñÜêáìøç, áíçöïñéêüò äñüìïò, ìáò ïäçãåß óôçí ÅðéóêïðÞ. Åßíáé ôï ôåëåõôáßï ÷ùñéü ôïõ íïìïý Ñåèýìíçò ðñïò ôá äõôéêÜ. Åß÷å êáôïéêçèåß áðü ôçí ðñþôç âõæáíôéíÞ ðåñßïäï (325-824), óýìöùíá ìå åñåßðéá ðáëáéï÷ñéóôéáíéêïý íáïý ðïõ áíáêáëýöèçêáí ôï 1959, óôçí ðçãÞ ÖïõíôÜíá. Ï íáüò åß÷å èáõìÜóéá ìùóáúêÜ äÜðåäá,

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óå ó÷Þìáôá óôáõñïý. ÊáôÜ ôç Â’ ÂõæáíôéíÞ ðåñßïäï, Þôáí Ýäñá åðéóêïðÞò, ðïõ åß÷å ìåôáöåñèåß áðü ôç ËÜððá. Ç EðéóêïðÞ ëåãüôáí Êáëáìþíá êáé ï åðéóêïðéêüò íáüò Þôáí ôïõ Áãßïõ ÍéêïëÜïõ êáé óÞìåñá åßíáé åñåéðùìÝíïò. ÐÝíôå ðåñßðïõ ÷ëì. äñüìïò, ìáò ïäçãåß óôçí Áñãõñïýðïëç. Ôï ÷ùñéü åßíáé ÷ôéóìÝíï óå 260 ì. õøüìåôñï óå ãñáöéêÞ ôïðïèåóßá, áíÜìåóá óôïõò ðïôáìïýò ÌïõóÝëá êáé ÐåôñÝ, óôç èÝóç ôçò Áñ÷áßáò ËÜððáò. Ôï üíïìá ôçò, ìðïñåß íá ðñïÝñ÷åôáé áðü ôï íïìéóìáôïêïðåßï ãéá áñãõñÜ íïìßóìáôá, ðïõ õðÞñ÷å óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ. Óþæïíôáé ðïëëÝò åêêëçóßåò âõæáíôéíÝò, üðùò ôùí Áãßùí ÐáñèÝíùí, ôçò Áãßáò ÊõñéáêÞò, ôïõ Åõáããåëéóìïý. Ãñáöéêüôáôç åßíáé ç


åêêëçóßá ôïõ Áãßïõ ÉùÜííç, ãíùóôÞ ùò Áãßá Äýíáìç, ðïõ âñßóêåôáé óå óðÞëáéï áðü üðïõ ðçãÜæåé ï ðïôáìüò ÌïõóÝëáò. Ïé ðçãÝò ôçò Áñãõñïýðïëçò, ôüðïò óêåðáóìÝíïò ìå èåüñáôá äÝíôñá, íåñÜ, êáôáññÜêôåò êáé ðáñáäåéóÝíéåò ôáâÝñíåò, ãßíåôáé ôüðïò åðßóêåøçò ãéá ÷éëéÜäåò íôüðéïõò êáé îÝíïõò. Óôéò ôáâÝñíåò, áðïëáìâÜíïõìå ôï ðåñßöçìï áíôéêñéóôü, äßðëá óå êáôáññÜêôåò êáé ìå ôç ìïõóéêÞ õðüêñïõóç ôïõ áíÝìïõ, ðïõ ôñáãïõäåß óôá öõëëþìáôá. Áîßæåé íá åðéóêåöèïýìå ôçí ÁóÞ ÃùíéÜ, ôï ðáíÝìïñöï ÷ùñéü ìå ôá ðïëëÜ íåñÜ êáé ôá äÝíôñá, ðïõ áêïõìðÜ óôçí ðëáãéÜ, éäáíéêÞ åéêüíá óôïí üãêï ôùí Ëåõêþí ÏñÝùí. Ðßóù áðü ôï ÷ùñéü Áñãõ-

ñïýðïëç, áñéóôåñÞ äéáêëÜäùóç ïäçãåß óôá ÌõñéïêÝöáëá. Ôï üíïìÜ ôïõ ïöåßëåé ôï ÷ùñéü óôá ìýñéá êåöÜëéá (ëüöïõò), ðïõ õðÜñ÷ïõí óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ. ÊáôïéêÞèçêå ìåôÜ ôïí 11ï áéþíá êáé õðÞñîå ïñìçôÞñéï åðáíáóôáôþí êáôÜ ôùí Ôïýñêùí êáé Åíåôþí. Ç ðåñéï÷Þ åßíáé ãíùóôÞ ãéá ôï ìïíáóôÞñé ôçò. Ç ÌïíÞ ÌõñéïêåöÜëùí åßíáé êôéóìÝíç óå õøüìåôñï 500 ìÝôñùí. Ç ßäñõóÞ ôçò áðïäßäåôáé óôïí ÉùÜííç ÎÝíï, ôïí 11ï áéþíá. Ôï 1770 êáôáóôñÜöçêå áðü ôïõò Ôïýñêïõò, åíþ êáôáñãÞèçêå ôï 1900. Ðïëý áñãüôåñá ÷áñáêôçñßóôçêå éåñü ðñïóêýíçìá êáé óÞìåñá áðïôåëåß åíïñéáêü íáü. ÃéïñôÜæåé óôéò 8 Óåðôåìâñßïõ. Óôç ìïíÞ óþæåôáé åéêüíá ôçò Èåïôüêïõ, âõæáíôéíÞò ôå÷íïôñïðßáò.

ÍåñÜ, óêéÝò, Þ÷ïé ôçò Öýóçò, åäù åßíáé ï ÐáñÜäåéóïò: óôéò ÐçãÝò ôçò Áñãõñïýðïëçò Water. shadows, sounds of Nature, here is the Paradise: at Argiroupolis springs

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ÑÝèõìíï - ÊÜíåâïò - öáñÜããé Êïôóõöïý - ÑïäÜêéíï Áêïëïõèïýìå ôï íïôéïáíáôïëéêü äñüìï ðñïò ôï ÓðÞëé. ÄåîéÜ ðáñÜêáìøç, ïäçãåß óôïí ¢ãéï Âáóßëåéï. ÐáíÝìïñöá ÷ùñéÜ óôç äéáäñïìÞ, åêôÜóåéò êáôáðñÜóéíåò. Óôï äñüìï õðÜñ÷ïõí ôáâÝñíåò ìå ðïëý êáëü öáãçôü. ÌåôÜ ôá ÁãêïõóåëéáíÜ êáé ôïí ¢ãéï ÉùÜííç, äåîéÜ óôñïöÞ ïäçãåß óôçí ÊáëÞ ÓõêéÜ. ÐáíÝìïñöï ÷ùñéü, êáôáðñÜóéíï, ìå áìðåëïêáëëéÝñãåéåò êáé åëáéüäåíôñá. ÁìÝóùò ìåôÜ ôïí ÊÜííåâï, óõíáíôïýìå ôï ö��ñÜããé Êïôóéöïý. Ôï öáñÜããé ôïõ Êïôóõöïý îåêéíÜåé áðü ôï ÷ùñéü ÊÜííåâïò êáé êáôáëÞãåé óôïí ÐëáêéÜ. Óôï óçìåßï ôçò áöåôçñßáò ôïõ, åßíáé ðï-

ëý óôåíü, ìå ðëÜôïò ðåñßðïõ 10ì., ôï ïðïßï óôáäéáêÜ áõîÜíåôáé êáé öèÜíåé ôá 600 ì. Ôï óõíïëéêü ôïõ ìÞêïò åßíáé 1.800 ì., êáé ïé ó÷åäüí êáôáêüñõöåò ðëåõñÝò ðïõ öèÜíïõí ôï ýøïò ôùí 600 ì. ÌÝóá óôï öáñÜããé õðÜñ÷åé ìéêñüò íáüò, ÷ôéóìÝíïò ìÝóá óå âñá÷þäç êïéëüôçôá. ÊáôÜ ìÞêïò ôïõ ðïôáìïý õðÜñ÷åé êáé äñüìïò ìå Üóöáëôï. Óôïí ðõèìÝíá ôïõ öáñáããéïý õðÜñ÷åé Ôï öáñÜããé ôïõ Êïôóõöïý Kostsifou canyon

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óçìáíôéêÞ ðáñõäÜôéá âëÜóôçóç åíþ óôéò âñá÷þäåéò áðüêñçìíåò ü÷èåò ôïõ ÖñõãáíÜ. Ï äñüìïò óõíå÷ßæåôáé óêáñöáëùìÝíïò óôçí ðëáãéÜ êáé ìå õðÝñï÷ç èÝá, ìÝ÷ñé ôï ÷ùñéü ÑïäÜêéíï. Ôï ÷ùñéü åßíáé êôéóìÝíï óå õøüìåôñï 120 ì. Ï äñüìïò êáôáëÞãåé óôéò õðÝñï÷åò ðáñáëßåò Êüñáêáò êáé ÑïäÜêéíï. ÐáíÝìïñöåò, ðåíôáêÜèáñåò, áðïôåëïýí éäáíéêü ôüðï ãéá ìðÜíéï. Óôçí ôïðïèåóßá Ðïëýñéæï, õðÜñ÷åé ðëÞñùò ïñãáíùìÝíï îåíïäï÷åßï ìå üëåò ôéò áíÝóåéò. Óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ, èá âñïýìå ôáâÝñíåò ìå êáëü öáãçôü. Óôïí üñìï Êüñáêá, Üñáîå ôï ðëïßï ÁñêÜäé, ðïõ ìåôÝöåñå ðïëåìïöüäéá óôïõò åðáíáóôáôçìÝíïõò êñçôéêïýò óôçí åðáíÜóôáóç ôïõ 1821. Óôï ¢íù ÑïäÜêéíï âñßóêïíôáé ïé åêêëçóßåò ôïõ Áãßïõ Ãåùñãßïõ êáé ôïõ Áãßïõ Ðíåýìáôïò óôçí êïñõöÞ ôïõ Êñõïíåñßôç. ¼ëç ç ðåñéï÷Þ åßíáé ðáíÝìïñöç êáé êÜèå ÷ñüíï ãßíåôáé ôüðïò åðßóêåøçò ðïëëþí ôïõñéóôþí. Ï äñüìïò óõíå÷ßæåé êáé öôÜíåé óôá ÓöáêéÜ.

Óå ÷þñá ìáêñéíÞ êáé áñõôßäùôç ôþñá ðïñåýïìáé […] Êé áðü êåßíåò ðÜëé ôéò ðíïÝò ôçò ÊñÞôçò, ìßá óôéãìÞ æùãñáöéæüìïõí. ÏäõóóÝáò Åëýôçò (áðüóðáóìá áðü ôï ÁÎÉÏÍ ÅÓÔÉ)

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Ç ðáñáëßá ôïõ ÑïäÜêéíïõ Rodakino beach


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¸íá âñÜäõ, ìðÞêá óå Ýíá öôù÷éêü ÷áìüóðéôï, ó’ Ýíá ÷ùñéü. Ï ãÝñïò, êáðåôÜíéïò ìå ôç ìáýñç öÝóá ôïõ, êÜèïíôáí ðëÜé óôï ôæÜêé êáé êÜðíéæå Ýíá ìáêñý ôóéìðïýêé. ÊÜèéóá äßðëá ôïõ. ¸öåñá ôçí êïõâÝíôá óôï èÜíáôï. ÓôñÜöçêå ï ãÝñï-Óöáêéáíüò êáé ìïõ åßðå: - ×áñÜ óôïí Üíèñùðï, ðáéäß ìïõ, ðïõ âÜíåé äõï öïñÝò ôç ìÝñá óôï íïõ ôïõ, ôï «èÜíáôï»... Ôïí ñþôçóá: - Ðþò óïõ öÜíçêå, ðáððïý, ç æùÞ áõôÞ, óôá åêáôü áõôÜ ÷ñüíéá; - Óáí Ýíá ðïôÞñé êñýï íåñü, ìïõ áðïêñßèçêå - Êáé äéøÜò áêüìç, ðáððïý; ÓôñÜöçêå êáé ìå êïßôáîå ìå ôá èïëÜ, ìéêñïýôóéêá ìÜôéá ôïõ, óÞêùóå ôç ÷åñïýêëá ôïõ, óá íá êáôáñéüôáí êáé åßðå: - ÁíÜèåìá ôïí, ðïõ îåäßøáóå! Íßêïò ÊáæáíôæÜêçò

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Nåêñüðïëç ôùí ÁñìÝíùí Armenon Nercropolis

Ï íïôéïáíáôïëéêüò äñüìïò ïäçãåß áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï ðñïò ôï ÓðÞëé êáé ôïí ÐëáêéÜ. ÌåôÜ áðü 10 ÷ëì., óõíáíôÜ Ýíá ìïíáäéêü áñ÷áéïëïãéêü ÷þñï: ôç Nåêñüðïëç ôùí ÁñìÝíùí, ç ïðïßá åíôïðßóôçêå ôõ÷áßá, áðü ìéêñïýò ìáèçôÝò, ðïõ âñÞêáí èñáýóìáôá áðü ðÞëéíá áããåßá êáé ïóôÜ áíèñþðùí. Õóôåñïìéíùúêü Íåêñïôáöåßï ÁñìÝíùí Óå áðüóôáóç 10 ÷ëì., íüôéá ôçò ðüëçò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ, äßðëá óôï ïìþíõìï ÷ùñéü êáé ìÝóá ó’Ýíá èáõìÜóéï äÜóïò áðü âåëáíéäéÝò, Ý÷åé áðïêáëõöèåß ôï ðåñßöçìï Nåêñïôáöåßï ôùí ÁñìÝíùí, ðïõ ÷ñïíïëïãåßôáé óôçí ÕóôåñïìéíùéêÞ ðåñßïäï (13ïò-12ïò áé. ð.×.). Ç óõóôçìáôéêÞ áíáóêáöéêÞ Ýñåõíá ðïõ îåêßíçóå ôï 1969, Ý÷åé áðïêáëýøåé Üíù ôùí 220 ôÜöùí êáé óõíå÷ßæåôáé, ìå óôü÷ï ôçí áðïêÜëõøç êáé ôçò ó÷åôéêÞò ðüëçò. Ïé ôÜöïé åßíáé èáëáìùôïß, ëáîåõìÝíïé óôï ìáëáêü öõóéêü âñÜ÷ï, Ý÷ïõí ðñïó-

áíáôïëéóìü áðü áíáôïëÞ ðñïò äýóç êáé ðåñéëáìâÜíïõí ìáêñüóôåíï ëáîåõôü åðßóçò äéÜäñïìï ðïõ ïäçãåß óôï åóùôåñéêü ôïõò. Ìüíï Ýíáò áðü ôïõò ôÜöïõò ðïõ áðïêáëýöèçêáí åßíáé êôéóôüò èïëùôüò. Ðåñéåß÷å åêôüò áðü êåñáìéêÜ êáé üðëá, ÷Üíäñåò, êáèþò êáé Ýíá ðåñßáðôï ìå åðéãñáöÞ óå ãñáììéêÞ Á’ ãñáöÞ. Ïé ðåñéóóüôåñïé áðü ôïõò èáëáìùôïýò ôÜöïõò, âñÝèçêáí áóýëçôïé êáé ðåñéåß÷áí ðëïýóéá åõñÞìáôá üðùò áããåßá, åéäþëéá, üðëá, êïóìÞìáôá, åñãáëåßá êáé ðïëëÜ Üëëá.

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Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá ïéêïãåíåéáêïýò ôÜöïõò ìå áñêåôïýò íåêñïýò, ôïðïèåôçìÝíïõò áðåõèåßáò åðÜíù óôï äÜðåäï Þ ìÝóá óå ðÞëéíåò ëÜñíáêåò. Ïé ðÞëéíåò ëÜñíáêåò åíôõðùóéÜæïõí ìå ôïí ðëïýóéï äéÜêïóìü ôïõò, ðïõ ðåñéëáìâÜíåé èÝìáôá åìðíåõóìÝíá áðü ôç öýóç, êáèþò êáé ôç èñçóêåõôéêÞ åéêïíïãñáößá. Ôá åõñÞìáôá ôïõ Íåêñïôáöåßïõ ôùí ÁñìÝíùí, ìðïñåß íá èáõìÜóåé êáíåßò óôï Áñ÷áéïëïãéêü Ìïõóåßï Ñåèýìíïõ. Ï áñ÷áéïëïãéêüò ÷þñïò åßíáé åðéóêÝøéìïò. Óõíå÷ßæïíôáò ôï äñüìï ðñïò ôï ÓðÞëé ìåôÜ ôï ÷ùñéü ÊïîáñÝ, ï åðéóêÝðôçò ìðïñåß íá êéíçèåß ðñïò ôï Êïõñôáëéþôéêï öáñÜããé. Åíôõðùóéáêü, åðéâëçôéêü, ìå øçëÜ ôïé÷þìáôá êáé ôïí ïñìçôéêü ÷åßìáññï Êïõñôáëéþôç íá êõëÜ óôçí êïßôç ôïõ, åíôõðùóéÜæåé ôïí åðéóêÝðôç. Ëßãï ðñéí áðü ôïõò êáôáññÜêôåò, âñßóêåôáé ôï åêêëçóÜêé ôïõ Áãßïõ ÍéêïëÜïõ ôïõ Êïõñôáëéþôç. Ï ðïôáìüò Êïõñôáëéþôçò ñÝåé áíÜìåóá óôá âïõíÜ Êïõñïýðá, 984 ì., êáé Îçñü ¼ñïò, 904 ì.

Ôï öáñÜããé ôïõ Êïõñôáëéþôç ðïôáìïý îåêéíÜåé áðü ôï ÷ùñéü ÊïîáñÝ êáé åêâÜëåé óôçí ðåñéï÷Þ Ëßìíç, óôá íüôéá ðáñÜëéá ôïõ Íïìïý Ñåèýìíïõ, áöïý ðåñÜóåé áðü ôçí ðåñéï÷Þ ôçò ÐñÝâåëçò. Ôá íåñÜ ôïõ Êïõñôáëéþôç Þ ÌåãÜëïõ Ðïôáìïý, ìåôÜ ôçí Ýîïäü ôïõò áðü ôï öáñÜããé, êõëïýí êÜôù áðü ìéá åíôõðùóéáêÞ ðáëéÜ ãÝöõñá êáé, áöïý äéáó÷ßóïõí Ýíá äåýôåñï ìéêñü öáñÜããé ðíéãìÝíï óôïõò öïßíéêåò, åêâÜëëïõí óôï Ëéâõêü. Ôï Êïõñôáëéþôéêï öáñÜããé Ý÷åé åîáéñåôéêÞ áéóèçôéêÞ, âéïëïãéêÞ êáé ïéêïëïãéêÞ áîßá. Åêôüò áðü ôéò óõóôÜäåò Öïßíéêá ôïõ Èåüöñáóôïõ (Phoenix theophrastii) ðïõ áðïôåëïýí ôï äåýôåñï óçìáíôéêüôåñï öïéíéêüäáóïò ôçò ÊñÞôçò. Óôéò ïñèïðëáãéÝò ôïõ öáñáããéïý, óõíáíôÜìå ðëïýóéá âëÜóôçóç, åíþ óôéò åêâïëÝò ôïõ ðïôáìïý õðÜñ÷ïõí áììïèßíåò êáé äéáðëÜóåéò ðïóåéäùíßáò (Posidonia oceanica), ðïõ åßíáé áðü ôá ðëÝïí ðñïóôáôåõüìåíá èáëÜóóéá öõôÜ. Ôï öáñÜããé äéáèÝôåé

Êïõñôáëéþôéêï öáñÜããé - Kourtaliotiko canyon

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Ðáñáëßá ÐñÝâåëçò Preveli beach

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åíôõðùóéáêïýò êáôáññÜêôåò êáé öéëïîåíåß ðïëëÜ óðÜíéá åßäç ôçò ÊñçôéêÞò ÷ëùñßäáò, åíþ åßíáé åðßóçò ãíùóôü ãéá ôçí ïñíéèïðáíßäá ôïõ. ×áñáêôçñßæåôáé áðü ôçí ðõêíÞ âëÜóôçóç êáé ôïõò áðüôïìïõò øçëïýò üãêïõò ðÝôñáò, ðïõ öèÜíïõí ôá 600 ìÝôñá êáé óôéò äýï ðëåõñÝò ôïõ. Åßíáé Ýíá áñéóôïýñãçìá ôçò öýóçò, ðïõ áîßæåé êáíåßò íá åðéóêåöèåß. ÄõôéêÜ áðü ôéò åêâïëÝò ôïõ Êïõñôáëéþôç ðïôáìïý, ìÝóá ó’ Ýíá êáôáðñÜóéíï ôïðßï, áíôéêñßæåéò îáöíéêÜ ôï ÊÜôù MïíáóôÞñé ÐñÝâåëç, ÷ôéóìÝíï ðëÜé ó’Ýíá ðïôáìÜêé ì’ Ýíá ãåöýñé. Ôï ìïíáóôÞñé áõôü åßíáé Ýñçìï óÞìåñá. Ôï êáèïëéêü ôïõ, åßíáé áöéåñùìÝíï óôïí ÉùÜííç ôïí Ðñüäñïìï êáé ç êáìðÜíá ôïõ Ý÷åé ÷ñïíïëïãßá 1594. Ï äñüìïò óõíå÷ßæåé êñåìáóìÝíïò óôçí ðëáãéÜ êáé ìå óõãêëïíéóôéêÞ èÝá óôï Ëéâõêü, ðïõ áðëþíåôáé áðÝñáíôï. Áöïý ðåñÜóïìå ôï ÷ùñéü Áóþìáôï, ìå ôç ìåãÜëç ðáñÜäïóç óôçí êåñáìéêÞ ôÝ÷íç, êáôçöïñßæïìå ðñïò ôç ÌïíÞ ÐñÝâåëç. Ðáñáëßá Ðñåâåëç Óôéò åêâïëÝò ôïõ ðïôáìïý Êïõñôáëéþôç, óôï ðéï åéäõëëéáêü ôïðßï ôçò Íüôéáò ÊñÞôçò, áíÜìåóá óôçí ðõêíÞ âëÜóôçóç êáé ôá ôñå÷ïýìåíá íåñÜ, âñßóêåôáé ç ðéï üìïñöç êáôÜ ðïëëïýò, ðáñáëßá ôïõ íçóéïý. ¸íá ìïíïðÜôé ðÜíù óôïõò âñÜ÷ïõò, ðïõ îåêéíÜ ëßãï ðéï Ýîù áðü ôç ÌïíÞ ÐñÝâåëç, ìáò ïäçãåß óôçí ðáñáëßá. Ï ðïôáìüò, ëßãï ðñéí êáôáëÞîåé óôç èÜëáóóá, ó÷çìáôßæåé ìéá ìéêñÞ ëßìíç. Ïé ü÷èåò åßíáé ãåìÜôåò öïéíéêüäåíôñá. Ç ðõñêáãéÜ, ðñïóðÜèçóå íá åîáöáíßóåé ôïýôï ôïí åðßãåéï ðáñÜäåéóï. ¼ìùò ïé ðñïóðÜèåéåò ôùí áíèñþðùí, Ýóùóáí ôïýôç ôç ìïíáäéêÞ êñçôéêÞ ðáñáëßá ôïõ

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Ëéâõêïý. Ç ðáñáëßá áõôÞ, ìå ôçí áóýëëçðôç ïìïñöéÜ, êÜèå ÷ñüíï êáôáêëýæåôáé áðü ÷éëéÜäåò êáôáóêçíùôÝò ðïõ ÷áßñïíôáé ôç èÜëáóóá êáé ôïí ïõñáíü, óå ìéá áíåðáíÜëçðôç óýíèåóç. Ç ÌïíÞ ÐñÝâåëç Âñßóêåôáé óå áðüóôáóç 37 ÷ëì. áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï. ÐåñéëáìâÜíåé äýï ìïíáóôÞñéá ðïõ áðÝ÷ïõí ìåôáîý ôïõò 3 ÷ëì.: ôçí ÊÜôù ÌïíÞ, ðïõ åßíáé åãêáôáëåéììÝíç êáé ôï Ðßóù ÌïíáóôÞñé ðïõ ëåéôïõñãåß êáé åßíáé åðéóêÝøéìï. Óýìöùíá ìå ôçí ðáñÜäïóç, ôï üíïìÜ ôïõ ìïíáóôçñéïý ðïõ êáèéåñþèçêå ìåôÜ ôï 17ï áéþíá, ðñïÝñ÷åôáé åßôå áðü êÜðïéïí êÜôïéêï ôïõ ÷ùñéïý ÐñåâåëéáíÜ Çñáêëåßïõ, ðïõ ìåôÜ áðü öüíï ðïõ äéÝðñáîå, êáôÝöõãå ó’áõôÞ ôçí ðåñéï÷Þ, åßôå èá ðñÝðåé íá Þôáí ôï üíïìá êÜðïéïõ áíáêáéíéóôÞ ôçò ÌïíÞò. Óôïí êåíôñéêü ðåñßâïëï ôïõ Ìïíáóôçñéïý, äåóðüæåé ï äßêëéôïò íáüò ôïõ Áãßïõ ÉùÜííïõ ôïõ Èåïëüãïõ êáé ôïõ Åõáããåëéóìïý. ÄõôéêÜ êáé Íüôéá áõôïý, áíáðôýóóïíôáé ôá êåëéÜ êáé ôï çãïõìåíåßï. Ï íáüò åßíáé óýã÷ñïíïò êáé ÷ôßóôçêå ðÜíù óå ðáëáéüôåñï âõæáíôéíü íáü. Óå ÷áìçëüôåñï åðßðåäï, âñßóêåôáé ç êñÞíç ìå ÷ñïíïëïãßá 1701 óôçí åðéãñáöÞ ôçò, êáé ôï Ìïõóåßï ôçò ÌïíÞò ðïõ ðåñéëáìâÜíåé Üìöéá, åêêëçóéáóôéêÜ áíôéêåßìåíá êáé åéêüíåò. ÊáôÜ ôçí ôïõñêïêñáôßá, ôï ìïíáóôÞñé äéáäñáìÜôéóå óðïõäáßï êïéíùíéêü êáé öéëáíèñùðéêü Ýñãï, ìéáò êáé äéÝèåôå áñêåôÝò ðåñéïõóßåò, ôéò ïðïßåò äþñéæáí ïé ÷ñéóôéáíïß ãéá íá ìçí ðÝóïõí óôá ÷Ýñéá ôùí êáôáêôçôþí. ÌÜëéóôá, ìÝóá ó’ áõôü ëåéôïýñãçóå êáé ó÷ïëåßï, åíþ óôçí êñçôéêÞ åðáíÜóôáóç


Áðüøåéò ôçò ÌïíÞò ÐñåâÝëçò Views from Preveli monastery

ôïõ 1866, áðïôÝëåóå êáôáöýãéï ôùí åðáíáóôáôþí. Ôï 1867 êáôáóôñÜöçêå ïëïó÷åñþò áðü ôïõò Ôïýñêïõò êáé ôï 1897 îáíá÷ôßóôçêå. ÊáôÜ ôï äåýôåñï ðáãêüóìéï ðüëåìï, Ýðáéîå óçìáíôéêü ñüëï. Åäþ âñÞêáí êáôáöýãéï, áñêåôïß áðü ôïõò óôñáôéþôåò ôùí óõììÜ÷ùí, ðïõ öõãáäåýôçêáí ìå õðïâñý÷éá áðü ôçí êïíôéíÞ áêôÞ ôïõ Ëéâõêïý ðåëÜãïõò, áëëÜ êáé óå üëç ôç äéÜñêåéá ôïõ ðïëÝìïõ, ç ìïíÞ Þôáí êÝíôñï áíôßóôáóçò êáé óçìåßï åðáöÞò ôùí óõììá÷éêþí äõíÜìåùí.

ÓÞìåñá, ôï ìïíáóôÞñé åßíáé óåâáóôü ðñïóêýíçìá ÷éëéÜäùí åðéóêåðôþí ìå ôá óçìáíôéêÜ êåéìÞëéá ôïõ ìïõóåßïõ, ôéò ðáìðÜëáéåò åéêüíåò, ôï óôáõñü ìå ôï Ôßìéï Îýëï, ôçí áñ÷éôåêôïíéêÞ êáé ôç èÝá ðïõ åíôõðùóéÜæåé.

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ÐëáêéÜò Êåíôñéêü óçìåßï ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò, óçìåßï áíáöïñÜò åßíáé ï ÐëáêéÜò. Ìéá ðáíÝìïñöç ðáñáëßá, êáé Ýíáò ïéêéóìüò êôéóìÝíïò êõêëéêÜ ðïõ áãêáëéÜæåé ôï êýìá. ÌéêñÜ îåíïäï÷åßá, åíïéêéáæüìåíá äéáìåñßóìáôá êáé åóôéáôüñéá, áñêåôÜ ãéá ôïõò ðïëëïýò êáëïêáéñéíïýò åðéóêÝðôåò. Ôï èÝñåôñï äéáôçñåß ôçí áõèåíôéêüôçôá êáé ôï ÷ñþìá ðïõ ôï Ýêáíå ðåñéæÞôçôï óôïõò åðéóêÝðôåò ôïõ. ÃáëÞíç, çñåìßá, öùò, ìõñùäéÝò êáé ìéá ðñùôüãíùñç áñ÷ïíôéÜ óáò ðåñéìÝíåé. Óôïí ÐëáêéÜ èá âñåßôå üôé ÷ñåéÜæåóôå,

êáèþò õðÜñ÷ïõí áñêåôÜ êáôáóôÞìáôá êáé óïýðåñ ìÜñêåô, åíïéêéáæüìåíá áõôïêßíçôá êáé ôïõñéóôéêÜ ãñáöåßá. ÕðÜñ÷ïõí êáöåôÝñéåò êáé ìðáñ óôïí ÐëáêéÜ. ¼óïé üìùò åðéëÝãïõí íá ðåñÜóïõí åäþ ôéò äéáêïðÝò ôïõò, ôï êÜíïõí ãéá ôçí êáèáñÞ èÜëáóóá êáé ôéò ðïëëÝò üìïñöåò ðáñáëßåò ôçò ðåñéï÷Þò. Ç ðáñáëßá ôïõ ÐëáêéÜ îåêéíÜåé áðü ôï ÷ùñéü êáé åðåêôåßíåôáé ðñïò ôá áíáôïëéêÜ. Åßíáé ìéá áðü ôéò ìåãáëýôåñåò ðáñáëßåò óôçí ÊñÞôç, ðïõ ðñïóöÝñåé áêüìá ôçí áßóèçóç ôçò Üíåóçò êáé ôïõ Üðëåôïõ ÷þñïõ, éêáíïðïéþíôáò ôáõôü-

Ôï èÝñåôñï êáé ç ðáñáëßá ôïõ ÐëáêéÜ - The resort and beach of Plakias

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÷ñïíá üëá ôá ãïýóôá, êáèþò ç áíáôïëéêÞ Üêñç ôïõ ðñïôéìÜôáé áðü üóïõò åðéäßäïíôáé óôïí ãõìíéóìü. ÕðÜñ÷ïõí íôïõò êáôÜ ìÞêïò ôçò ðáñáëßáò êáé áñêåôüò ÷þñïò ãéá ðáñêéíãê. Áí ôéò ìÝñåò ðïõ èá âñåèåßôå óôïí ÐëáêéÜ, áíïßîïõí ïé áóêïß ôïõ Áéüëïõ êáé ï âïñéÜò óáò ìáóôéãþíåé ìå ôçí Üììï, ôñáâÞîôå

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äõôéêÜ ãéá ôçí ðáñáëßá ôçò Óïýäáò. ÐáíÝìïñöç ðáñáëßá, ðåñéóóüôåñï õðÞíåìç. ÕðÜñ÷ïõí êé åäþ ìéêñÜ îåíïäï÷åßá êáé ëßãåò ôáâÝñíåò. ¢ëëåò üìïñöåò ðáñáëßåò êïíôÜ óôïí ÐëáêéÜ åßíáé ôï Äáìíüíé, ôï Áììïýäé êáé ôï Méêñü Áììïýäé, ðïõ ðñïôéìÜôáé åðßóçò áðü ôïõò ãõìíéóôÝò. Ëßãï ðéï ìáêñéÜ, åßíáé ôá Ëåõêüãåéá êáé ôá Ó÷ïéíÜñéá, ðáñáëßá áãáðçìÝíç óå üóïõò ôïõò áñÝóïõí ïé êáôáäýóåéò. Êáôáäõôéêü êÝíôñï õðÜñ÷åé åðßóçò êïíôÜ óôïí ÐëáêéÜ, óôï îåíïäï÷åßï Êáëõøþ.


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….ÓôÞíù Íáü óôï êÜèå ìïõ êýôôáñï Êýñéå, êáé ðÝöôù êáé ðñïóåý÷ïìáé óôçò ãáëáíÞò ìïõ ðáôñßäáò êáé óôçò äéêÞò Óïõ ôçí Èåßá ýðáñîç ãéá íá õðÜñîù Êýñéå!....

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ÑÝèõìíï - ÓðÞëé - Áãßá ÃáëÞíç ÎåêéíÜìå áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï êáé áêïëïõèïýìå ôçí êåíôñéêÞ åðáñ÷éáêÞ áñôçñßá, ðïõ äéáó÷ßæåé ôï íïìü, áðü ÂïññÜ ðñïò Íüôï. Ôï ðñþôï ÷ùñéü ðïõ óõíáíôÜìå óôç äéáäñïìÞ ìáò, åßíáé ïé ÁñìÝíïé óå áðüóôáóç 10 ÷ëì. ÁìÝóùò ìåôÜ, ôï ÷ùñéü ÁñìÝíïé, ìðïñïýìå íá êÜíïõìå ìßá ðáñÜêáìøç 5 ÷ëì. äåîéÜ, ðñïò ôï ÷ùñéü Öùôåéíïý, ãéá íá èáõìÜóïõìå ôçí âåíåôóéÜíéêç êñÞíç ôïõ 17ïõ áé. Óõíå÷ßæïíôáò ôç äéáäñïìÞ ìáò óôï 26ï ÷ëì.,öèÜíïõìå ÷ùñéü Ìéîüññïõìá, üðïõ åîáêïëïõèåß íá áóêåßôáé ç ðáñáäïóéáêÞ ôÝ÷íç ôçò êáëáèïðëåêôéêÞò. Ç ðáñÜêáìøç áíáôïëéêÜ áðü ôï Ìéîüññïõìá ïäçãåß óôï ÷ùñéü ËáìðéíÞ, üðïõ ìðïñïýìå íá èáõìÜóïõìå ôç âõæáíôé-

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íÞ åêêëçóßá ôçò Ðáíáãßáò. ÌåôÜ áðü 4 ÷ëì. âñßóêåôáé ôï ÷ùñéü ÓðÞëé, ç ðñùôåýïõóá ôïõ ÄÞìïõ ËÜìðçò, ìå ôá êñõóôÜëëéíá íåñÜ ðïõ áíáâëýæïõí áðü ôéò êñÞíåò ôçò êåíôñéêÞò ðëáôåßáò. ÕðÝñï÷ï ÷ùñéü ìå óêéÝò, ðïëëÜ êáôáóôÞìáôá êáé ðïëëÜ íåñÜ. Áðü ôï 1953, åßíáé Ýäñá ôçò Ìçôñïðüëåùò. ÊáôÜ ôç äéÜñêåéá ôçò ôïõñêéêÞò óêëáâéÜò, ôï ÓðÞëé äåí Ýëåéøå áðü ôïõò áãþíåò ôïõ ¸èíïõò. ÁöÞíïõìå ðßóù ìáò ôï ÓðÞëé êáé áêïëïõèïýìå ôï êåíôñéêü äñüìï.Ç ðáñÜêáìøç ðïõ õðÜñ÷åé óôï 35ï ÷ëì., óôï ÷ùñéü Êéóóïý ÊÜìðïò, ïäçãåß óå ìéá óåéñÜ áðü ÷ùñéÜ üðùò ç ¢äñáêôïò, ç Äñéìßóêïò êáé ôá ÊåñáìÝ, êáé êõñßùò


óôçí èáõìÜóéá ðáñáëßá Ëßãêñåò. Óôï 39ï ÷ëì. âñßóêåôáé ôï ÷ùñéü Áêïýìéá ìå ôç èáõìÜóéá ôïé÷ïãñáöçìÝíç åêêëçóßá ôïõ ÓùôÞñïò êáé áí óôñßøïõìå äåîéÜ ìÝóá áðü ôï ÷ùñéü, èá öèÜóïõìå óôçí ðåñßöçìç ÁêïõìéáíÞ ãéáëéÜ êáé ôçí Ôñéüðåôñá. ÌáãåõôéêÝò ðáñáëßåò ìå ðåíôáêÜèáñá íåñÜ êáé áñêåôÜ äùìÜôéá, ðïõ Üíåôá êáëýðôïõí ôçí áíÜãêç äéáìïíÞò. ÔáâÝñíåò ìå ðåíôáêÜèáñï öáãçôü êáé öñÝóêï øÜñé, Üíèñùðïé ìå ìïíáäéêÞ åõãÝíåéá êáé áîéïðñÝðåéá, ðïõ èá ãßíïõí ößëïé óáò áðü ôçí ðñþôç óôéãìÞ. Ç Ôñéüðåôñá ðÞñå ôï üíïìÜ ôçò áðü ôéò ôñåßò ðáñÜîåíåò ðÝôñåò - âñÜ÷ïõò ðïõ âñßóêïíôáé óôçí ðáñáëßá. Ôá ôåëåõôáßá ÷ñüíéá, ðïëëïß åðéóêÝðôåò áíáêáëýðôïõí ôç ìáãåßá ôçò íüôéáò ðáñáëßáò ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Óôï 45ï ÷ëì. âñßóêåôáé ôï ÷ùñéü Êñýá Âñýóç êáé áìÝóùò ìåôÜ, ç äéáóôáýñùóç ðñïò ¢ãéï Ðáýëï êáé ÌÝëáìðåò. Åßôå ìÝóù áõôÞò ôçò ðáñÜ-

êáìøçò åßôå ìÝóù ôïõ êåíôñéêïý äñüìïõ, ìåôÜ áðü äéáäñïìÞ 58 ÷ëì. öèÜíïõìå óôï ðáñáèáëÜóóéï èÝñåôñï ôçò Áãßáò ÃáëÞíçò. Áãßá ÃáëÞíç: Ýíá öéëéêü ÷ùñéü äßðëá óôï ëéìÜíé Ç Áãßá ÃáëÞíç åßíáé Ýíá öéëéêü ÷ùñéü äßðëá óôï ëéìÜíé üðïõ ìðïñåßôå íá ðÜôå ìå ëåùöïñåßï, ôáîß Þ áõôïêßíçôï. Îåíïäï÷åßá, äéáìåñßóìáôá êáé ãêáñóïíéÝñåò èá êáëýøïõí Üíåôá ôç äéáìïíÞ óáò. ÕðÜñ÷åé ìåãÜëç ðïéêéëßá áðü ôáâÝñíåò êáé åóôéáôüñéá, êáèþò åðßóçò bar êáé êáöåôÝñéåò ðïõ ïëïêëçñþíïõí ôç íõ÷ôåñéíÞ æùÞ ôçò Áãßáò ÃáëÞíçò. Ìðïñåßôå íá êÜíåôå áíáæùïãïíçôéêÜ ìðÜíéá êáé èáëÜóóéá óðïñ óôç èÜëáóóá ôïõ Ëéâõêïý ÐåëÜãïõò Þ íá ðÜôå ìáêñéíïýò êáé Þóõ÷ïõò ðåñéðÜôïõò óôá âïõíÜ ãýñù áðü ôï ÷ùñéü. ÊáôÜ ôçí ðáñáìïíÞ óáò óôçí Áãßá ÃáëÞíç, èá ìðïñÝóåôå íá åðéóêåöôåßôå êïíôéíïýò áñ-

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÷áéïëïãéêïýò ÷þñïõò üðùò ç Öáéóôüò, ç Áãßá ÔñéÜäá êáé ç Ãüñôõíá, íá ðÜôå ìßá óõíáñðáóôéêÞ âáñêÜäá óôçí ÐñÝâåëç Þ ìßá âáñêÜäá ãéá øÜñåìá óôïí ¢ãéï Ãåþñãéï! Ç Áãßá ÃáëÞíç, áðÝ÷åé ðåñßðïõ ìéÜìéóç þñá ìå ôï áõôïêßíçôï áðü ôï ÇñÜêëåéï êáé ôá ×áíéÜ êáé ìßá þñá áðü ôï ÑÝèõìíï. Ôï ÷ùñéü ðñïóöÝñåôáé ãéá ðåñðÜôçìá êáé ãíùñéìßá ìå ôá óôåíÜ êáé ôïõò áíèñþðïõò. ÊôéóìÝíï áìöéèåáôñéêÜ, äéáèÝôåé õðÝñï÷ç èÝá. ÐñïóöÝñåôáé êáé ãéá ïéêïãåíåéáêÝò äéáêïðÝò. Åêôüò áðü ôïí êåíôñéêü äñüìï, äåí êõêëïöïñïýí ðïëëÜ áõôïêßíçôá. Ç Áãßá ÃáëÞíç èá éêáíïðïéÞóåé êÜèå óáò áðáßôçóç. Åðéóêåöèåßôå ôçí.

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ÓðÞëé Óôï êÝíôñï ôïõ Óðçëßïõ, óôçí ðëáôåßá ìå ôá äýï áéùíüâéá ðëáôÜíéá, âñßóêåôáé ç êåöáëïâñýóç üðùò ôçí áðïêáëïýí ïé Óðçëéáíïß. Ðñüêåéôáé ãéá ìßá óåéñÜ áðü 25 êñÞíåò (âñýóåò) ìå ìïñöÞ êåöáëÞò ëéïíôáñéïý, áðü ôá óôüìáôá ôùí ïðïßùí ñÝïõí 330 êõâ. ì. íåñïý êÜèå þñá, ðëïýóéïõ óå óßäçñï êáé ìå óôáèåñÞ èåñìïêñáóßá, óôïõò 13°C. Ãýñù áðü ôç êåöáëïâñýóç, õðÜñ÷ïõí ôáâÝñíåò ìå ãíÞóéá ÊñçôéêÞ êïõæßíá, ãñáöéêÜ êáöåíåßá êáé êáôáóôÞìáôá ëáúêÞò ôÝ÷íçò. Ç ðëïýóéá âëÜóôçóç ôïõ ÷ùñéïý ïöåßëåôáé óôï ðïôÜìé ðïõ åßíáé ãåìÜôï ðÝóôñïöåò, ðïõ ðåñíÜ íüôéá, ôï ïðïßï ðñïóåããßæåôáé ìÝóù ìßáò äéáäñïìÞò ìåãÜëïõ öõóéêïý êÜëëïõò. ¸íá áðü ôá áîéïèÝáôá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý, åßíáé êáé ïé ðïëëïß ðáñáäïóéáêïß íåñüìõëïé, ðïõ äéáóþæïíôáé êáé êõñßùò Ýíáò áðü áõôïýò, ðïõ âñßóêåôáé áêüìá óå ëåéôïõñãßá, åíþ ãñáöéêü åßíáé êáé ôï ÷áñáêôçñéóìÝíï áðü ôçí ÅõñùðáúêÞ ¸íùóç, ìïíïðÜôé Å4 äéáäñïìÞ 20 «ÓðÞëé - ÃåñáêÜñé», ç ïðïßá ðåñíÜåé áðü ôï îùêëÞóé ôïõ Áã. Ðíåýìáôïò ìÝóá áðü ôïõò êáôáðñÜóéíïõò åëáéþíåò, âüñåéá ôïõ ÷ùñéïý.

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….Tá ðåñéãéÜëéá åëÜìðáóé, ê’ ç èÜëáóóá åêïéμÜôï, ãëõêýò óêïðüò åéò ôá äåíôñÜ ê’ åéò ôá íåñÜ åãñéêÜôï. Oëü÷áñç êáé ëáμðõñÞ çμÝñá îçμåñþíåé, åãÝëá-í ç AíáôïëÞ, ê’ ç Äýóç êáμáñþíåé. O ¹ëéïò ôåò áêôßíåò ôïõ ðáñÜ ðïôÝ óôïëßæåé μå ëÜμøéí, êé üëá ôá âïõíÜ êáé êÜμðïõò ïμïñößæåé. Xáμïðåôþíôáò ôá ðïõëéÜ åãëõêïêéëáäïýóáí, óôá êëùíáñÜêéá ôùí äåíôñþí åóμßãáí ê’ åöéëïýóáí. Äõü-äõü åæåõãáñþíáóé, æåóôüò êáéñüò åêßíá, Ýóμéîåò, ãÜμïõò, êáé ÷áñÝò åäåß÷íáóé ê’ åêåßíá. Eóêüñðéóåí ç óõííåöéÜ, ïé áíôÜñåò å÷áèÞêáí, ðïëëÜ óçμÜäéá ôóç ÷áñÜò óôïí Oõñáíü åöáíÞêáí. ÐáñÜ ðïôÝ ôùò ëáμðõñÜ, ôñéãýñïõ óôïëéóμÝíá, óôïí Oõñáíü åßí’ ôá íÝöáëá óáí ðáñá÷ñïõóùμÝíá. Ôá ðÜèç ðëéü äåí êéëáäåß ôï ðñéêáμÝíï áçäüíé, áμÝ ðåôÜ ðáóß÷áñï, μ’ Üëëá ðïõëéÜ óéμþíåé. Ãåëïýí ôóç Xþñáò ôá óôåíÜ, ê’ ïé óôñÜôåò êáμáñþíïõí, üëá ãñéêïýí êïõñöÝò ÷áñÝò, êé üëá ôóé öáíåñþíïõí…… Áðüóðáóìá áðü ôïí Åñùôüêñéôï ôïõ ÂéôóÝíôæïõ ÊïñíÜñïõ

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Îåíïäï÷åßá - Hotels AQUILA RITHYMNA BEACH Áäåëéáíüò ÊÜìðïò - Adelianos Kambos - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 71002 - Fax: 28310 71668 AQUILA PORTO RETHYMNO Óéêåëéáíïý êáé BåíéæÝëïõ 52A - Sikelianou & Venizelou 52A - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 50432 - Fax: 28310 27825 MINOS MARE ROYAL Ïäüò Ëáóéèßïõ - Lasithiou Street - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 50388-9 - Fax: 28310 53310, EL GRECO ÑÝèõìíï - Rethymno - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 71102 - Fax: 28310 71215 CRETA PALACE Ìéóóßñéá - Missiria - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 55181 - Fax: 28310 54085 THEARTEMIS PALACE M. ÐïñôÜëéïõ 26 - M. Portaliou 26 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 53991-5 - Fax: 28310 23785 RETHYMNO MARE ÓêáëÝôá - Skaleta - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 71703 - Fax: 28310 71734 PALAZZO RIMONDI Îáíèïõäßäïõ 19 - Ksanthoudidou 19 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 510289 - Fax: 28310 51013, PALAZZO GRECO Aãßá ÃáëÞíç - Agia Galini - Ôçë./Tel.: 28320 91187-28310 23356 - Fax: 28320 91491, 28310 ORION HOTEL Aäåëéáíüò KÜìðïò - Adelianos Kambos - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 71471-74 - Fax: 28310 71000, ÌÉÍÏÓ MARE HOTEL Ðáýëïõ ÄñáíäÜêç 17 - Pavlou Drandaki 17 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 50388-9 - Fax: 28310 53310, MINÙÓ Má÷çôþí Ó÷ïëÞò XùñïöõëáêÞò 5 - Machiton Sxolis Xorofylakis 5 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 53291-4 - Fax: 28310 23544 ÊÁLÕPSO CRETAN VILLAGE AêôÞ KÜñáâïò, ÐëáêéÜò - Akti Karavos, Plakias - Ôçë./Tel.: 28320 31296-31297 - Fax: 28320 31210 CLUB MARINE PALACE ÐÜíïñìï - Panormo - Ôçë./Tel.: 28340 51 610 - Fax: 28340 51 603 EVA BAY Aäåëéáíüò KÜìðïò - Adelianos Kambos - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 71790, 71756, 71778 - Fax: 28310 71694 ATLANTIS BEACH Âåëïõ÷éþôç 28 - Velouchioti 28 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 51002 - Fax: 28310 51068 ALIANTHOS GARDEN ÐëáêéÜò - Plakias - Ôçë./Tel.: 28320 31280, 31227 - Fax: 28320 31282

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ATRIUM HOTEL M. ÐïñôÜëéïõ 24 - M. Portaliou 24 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 57601-6 - Fax: 28310 57607 BRASCOS HOTEL MoÜôóïõ êáé ÄáóêáëÜêç 1 - Moatsou and Daskalaki 1 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 23721 - Fax: 28310 23725 HOTEL FORTEZZA Måëéóóéíïý 1 êáé Îáíèïõäßäïõ - Melissinou 1 and Ksanthoudidou - Ôçë./Tel.:28310 55551-2 - Fax: 28310 54073 GALEANA MARE HOTEL Aäåëéáíüò KÜìðïò - Adelianos Kambos - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 73006-9 - Fax: 28310 20840 IBISCOS GARDEN Má÷çôþí Ó÷ïëÞò XùñïöõëáêÞò 19 - Machiton Sxolis Xorofylakis 19 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 51112 - Fax: 28310 51191 ÃOPTYNA ÓêáëÝôá - Skaleta - Ôçë./Tel.:28310 71802, 71846 - Fax: 28310 71824 HOTEL IDEON Ðëáôåßá Néê. ÐëáóôÞñá 10 - 10, Nik. Plastira Sq. - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 28667-8-9 - Fax: 28310 28670 JASON ÃéáìðïõäÜêç 48 - Giamboudaki 48 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 22542 - 24430 - Fax: 28310 55229 LA STELLA ÐëáôáíéÜò - Platanias - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 27545 - 6944 946457 - Fax: 28310 24661 MARAVEL LAND Áäåëéáíüò KÜìðïò - Adelianos Kambos - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 71063 - 71064 - Fax: 28310 71063 NAUTICA ÓôáõñùìÝíïò - Stavromenos - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 71513 - 55577 - Fax: 28310 55577 NEFELI HOTEL MÜ÷çò KñÞôçò 161 - Machis Kritis 161 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 55321-3 - Fax: 28310 29750 RETHYMNO VILLAGE ºìâñïõ 30, ÐëáôáíéÜò - Imvrou 30, Platanias - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 25523 - Fax: 28310 53862 SUNNINGDALE Aãßá ÃáëÞíç - Agia Galini - Ôçë./Tel.: 28320 91161 - 6973 082332 - Fax: 28320 91461 VENETO HOUSE Eðéìåíßäïõ 4 - Epimenidou 4 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 56634 - 6932 237620 - Fax: 28310 56635, MYTHOS SUITES HOTEL KáñáïëÞ Äçìçôñßïõ 12 - Karaoli Dimitriou 12 - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 53917 - Fax: 28310 51036 Camping ELIZABETH Missiria - Ôçë./Tel.: 28310 28694 - 28379 APOLLONIA Plakias - Ôçë./Tel.: 28320 31507 - 31318 - Fax: 28320 31607 AGIA GALINI Agia Galini - Ôçë./Tel.: 28320 91386 - 91239

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×ñÞóéìá ÔçëÝöùíá êáé Ðëçñïöïñßåò Ñåèýìíïõ Useful phone numbers and Rethymno informations ÍÏÌÁÑ×ÉÁÊÇ ÅÐÉÔÑÏÐÇ ÔÏÕÑÉÓÔÉÊÇÓ ÐÑÏÂÏËÇÓ PREFECTURAL COMMITTEE FOR TOURISM PROMOTION ...................................... 28310 25012, ÄÇÌÏÓ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ - RETHYMNO MUNICIPALITY ............................................................... 28310 ÄÇÌÏÓ ÁÑÊÁÄÉÏÕ - ARKADIOU MUNICIPALITY .................................................................... 28310 ÄÇÌÏÓ ËÁÐÐÁÉÙÍ - LAPAION MUNICIPALITY ..................................................................... 28310 ÄÇÌÏÓ ÖÏÉÍÉÊÁ - FINIKAS MUNICIPALITY ........................................................................... 28310 ÄÇÌÏÓ ËÁÌÐÇÓ - LAMBIS MUNICIPALITY ............................................................................ 28310 ÄÇÌÏÓ ÊÏÕÑÇÔÙÍ - KOURITON MUNICIPALITY .................................................................. 28330 ÄÇÌÏÓ ÓÕÂÑÉÔÏÕ - SIVRITOU MUNICIPALITY ....................................................................... 28330 ÄÇÌÏÓ ÁÍÙÃÅÉÙÍ - ANOGIA MUNICIPALITY ........................................................................ 28340 ÄÇÌÏÓ ÊÏÕËÏÕÊÏÕÍÁ - KOULOUKOUNA MUNICIPALITY ................................................. 28340 ÄÇÌÏÓ ÃÅÑÏÐÏÔÁÌÏÕ - GEROPOTAMOS MUNICIPALITY ................................................ 28340

25571 22245 71169 61350 32111 23000 41077 22661 31207 41392 22462

ÅÏÔ - GNTO .................................................................................................................... 28310 29148, 56350 ËÉÌÅÍÁÑ×ÅÉÏ - PORT AUTHORITY ......................................................................................... 28310 22276 ÊÔÅË - GREEK BUS OPERATOR .............................................................................................. 28310 22212 ÌÉÍÙÉÊÅÓ ÃÑÁÌÌÅÓ - MINOAN LINES ................................................................................... 28310 22941 ÁÍÅÊ ........................................................................................................................................... 28310 29221 ÔÏÕÑÉÓÔÉÊÇ ÁÓÔÕÍÏÌÉÁ - TOURISM POLICE ............................................................ 28310 28156, 29148 ÔÑÏ×ÁÉÁ - TRAFFIC POLICE ......................................................................................... 28310 28891, 22589 ÍÏÓÏÊÏÌÅÉÏ ÑÅÈÕÌÍÏÕ RETHYMNO HOSPITAL ............................................................. 28310 27491 ÓÕË. ÎÅÍÏÄ. Í. ÑÅÈÕÌÍÇÓ - RETHYMNO UNION OF HOTEL OWNERS .......................... 28310 55873 ÓÕË. ÎÅÍÏÄ. ÁÃ. ÃÁËÇÍÇÓ - AG. GALINI UNION OF HOTEL OWNERS ................. 28320 91380, 91333 ÓÕË. ÎÅÍÏÄ. ÐËÁÊÉÁ - PLAKIAS UNION OF HOTEL OWNERS ............................................ 28320 31280 ÁÑ×ÁÉÏËÏÃÉÊÏ ÌÏÕÓÅÉÏ - ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM .................................................. 28310 54668 ËÁÏÃÑÁÖÉÊÏ ÌÏÕÓÅÉÏ - FOLK ART MUSEUM ...................................................................... 28310 23398

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Åõ÷áñéóôþ... Ãéá ôñåéò ìÞíåò ðåñðáôÞóáìå ôï ÑÝèõìíï. ÆÞóáìå ìáãåõôéêÝò óôéãìÝò. ÐåñðáôÞóáìå óôçí ÐáëéÜ Ðüëç. Åßäáìå ôç äéá÷ñïíéêÞ ïìïñöéÜ ìéáò áéþíéáò ðüëçò, ãåìÜôçò ìíÞìåò. ÁíåâÞêáìå óôï êÜóôñï êáé åßäáìå êïõñíéáóìÝíç ôçí ðüëç, ãýñù ôïõ, ãýñù áðü ôïí áéþíéï ãßãáíôá. Ôï äåéëéíü, èáõìÜóáìå ôéò ìýñéåò áðï÷ñþóåéò ôïõ Þëéïõ, ðÜíù óôç èÜëáóóá. Ôï âñÜäõ, æÞóáìå ìéá æùíôáíÞ ðüëç, ãåìÜôç ìõñùäéÝò êáé Þ÷ïõò ðáãêüóìéïõò. ÁíåâÞêáìå ãéá ðñïóêýíçìá óôï ÁñêÜäé. ÆÞóáìå ôï ìðñïýóêï ôùí Áíùãåßùí, ôçí Áîü, ôéò Ìáñãáñßôåò, ôï åîùôéêü Ìðáëß. Ôçí áñ÷ïíôéÜ ôïõ ÑïäÜêéíïõ, ôïí õðÝñï÷ï ÐëáêéÜ, ôïí ¢ãéï Ðáýëï, ôçí Áñãõñïýðïëç ìå ôéò ðáñáäåéóÝíéåò ðçãÝò ôçò. Ôçí Ôñéüðåôñá, ìå ôá ìõóôéêÜ êáé ôïõò èñýëïõò ôçò. Óå ôïýôï ôï ïäïéðïñéêü, ãíùñßóáìå óçìáíôéêïýò áíèñþðïõò, ðïõ ìáò âïÞèçóáí óôç äçìéïõñãßá ôïýôçò ôçò Ýêäïóçò. ÈÝëïõìå íá åõ÷áñéóôÞóïìå áðü êáñäéÜò, üëïõò áõôïýò ðïõ ìáò âïÞèçóáí êáé éäéáßôåñá, ôïõò áíèñþðïõò ôçò Íïìáñ÷éáêÞò ÅðéôñïðÞò Ôïõñéóìïý. Ôïõò õðåýèõíïõò ôïõ ÄÞìïõ Ñåèýìíïõ. Ôï ÄÞìáñ÷ï Áíùãåßùí êï. ÊåöáëïãéÜííç. Ôçí Åôáéñåßá ÁíÜðôõîçò Øçëïñåßôç êáé ôïí õðåýèõíï êï. Ðáôôáêü. Ôïí õðåýèõíï Ôïõñéóìïý ÄÞìïõ ÃåñïðïôÜìïõ, ôïí Ðïëéôéóôéêü Óýëëïãï Ìåëéäïíßïõ êáé ôïí Ðñüåäñï ôïõ. Ôïí Ðñüåäñï ôùí Åóôéáôüñùí ôïõ Ñåèýìíïõ êï. ÐùëéïõäÜêç Âáóßëç. Ôïí Óýëëïãï ôùí Îåíïäü÷ùí ÐëáêéÜ êáé ôïí Ðñüåäñü ôïõ, êï. ÇëéÜêç. Ôçí õðåýèõíç ãéïñôÞò êñáóéïý êá.Êáôåñßíá ÎåêÜëïõ. Éäéáßôåñá åõ÷áñéóôþ üëïõò åêåßíïõò, ôïõò åðé÷åéñçìáôßåò, ðïõ åìðéóôåýôçêáí óå ôïýôï ôïí Ïäçãü, ôç äéáöÞìéóç ôçò åðé÷åßñçóçò ôïõò. Åëðßæïõìå ôï ôåëéêü áðïôÝëåóìá íá åßíáé áíôÜîéï ôùí ðñïóäïêéþí ôïõò êáé ôçò ðïéüôçôáò ôùí Åðé÷åéñÞóåùí ôïõò. ×ùñßò áõôïýò äåí èá ìðïñïýóå íá ïëïêëçñùèåß áõôÞ ç ðñïóðÜèåéá. ÔÝëïò èÝëïõìå íá åõ÷áñéóôÞóïõìå üëïõò åêåßíïõò, ðïõ óõíáíôÞóáìå óôá ïäïéðïñéêÜ ìáò óôçí åíäï÷þñá ôïõ Íïìïý. Áíèñþðïõò ÷áìïãåëáóôïýò, ðïõ ÷áßñïíôáé ôç æùÞ êáé ôç äçìéïõñãßá. Äå èá ôïõò îå÷Üóïìå ðïôÝ. Åðßóçò, íá åõ÷áñéóôÞóù ôçí Ðïëýìíéá - ôç óýæõãü ìïõ - ðïõ, üðùò ðÜíôá, ìå âïÞèçóå óå ôïýôï ôï ïäïéðïñéêü. Ìå åêôßìçóç, Ìé÷. ÊáñôóÜêçò

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English section

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History The history of the place is closely bound with the history of Crete. The first inhabitants of the island were initially established at places that were close to the island coastline during the Stone Age. All over the prefecture and in particular at the mountainous area of Psiloritis we meet Minoan settlements such as Zominthos, Monastiraki and Apodoulou in Amari. During Geometric and Archaic era, important towns were developed such as Axou and Eleftherna. After the Roman conquest, Crete was a Roman Province with Gortyna being its administration centre. The expansion of Christianity sets the Byzantine era for this place. Gortyna, Axos, Eleftherna and Syvritos were Episcopate churches at the time. The presence of the Byzantines in the island was abruptly stopped by the Arabic conquest of 823. From the dark ages of the Arabic domination, not much information have been saved. In 961, Nikiforos Fokas, took the island back. This is when the 2nd Byzantine era started. The legend says that it was then that noble families moved in the area from Constantinople. The Fourth Crusade (1204) the fact that truly catalyzed the Byzantine Empire. Crete came to the hands of the thalassocrat Venetians. Cretans with continuous revolutions kept rebelling against the Venetian domination. So, during the Kallergi

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Revolutions, the wide area gained important privileges for its Orthodox residents. The Turks occupied the area in 1645. But residents did not accept a foreign tyrant. They kept rebelling and gave fights against the conquerors. During the great revolution for independence in 1821, the area was present as well giving fights. Four hundred Melidoni residents were martyred at Gerontospilio. The centre of the revolution was the heroic Arcadi that is a universal symbol of self-sacrifice. During the World War II and the battle of Crete, great battles were given between the locals and the occupation forces. Psiloritis accommodated guerrilla forces who continued their fight with self-abnegation. Conquerors retaliated, such as in the case of the Anogia holocaust and Kedrous villages and the execution of patriots in Nivritos and elsewhere.


General Rethtymnon prefecture is an almost parallelogram strip of land that connects Chania to Megalocastro. Its two sides, north and south, exit to two seas. The brusque Cretan sea with its eternal ground swells and the warm Libyan sea with its great small sand-beaches and the unique coast line. The centre of the prefecture is covered by mountains with the most important one being Psiloritis, with its peaks and its classic beauty. Small, green valleys, great strokes, enrich the mountainous terrain. Over the mountains, the slopes and the small plains, villages are rooted with their traditional shapes completing this heaven-like image. And at the edges of the prefecture, north and south, mountains decline, get smoother and make a pilgrim to the waves. Here, local people have been living and creating for centuries. They built following the shapes their ancestors inherited to them, bows respectfully to the nature, keeps traditions and struggles to keep their course in time. Small and big villages, very old monasteries, churches with priceless pictures welcome you on every step. Vineyards and olive trees and fruits decorate hills and plains. Rivers and small gorges, like golden veins, cut-off the wild character of the place. People do live in this net. In this land, myths and history, legends and facts are woven together. Many conquerors wanted this place. The step their foot on earth, dug and found town, sealed time and left behind indelible traces. Great

towns, archaeological sites are waiting for you on every step. Remnants of an important civilization, ruins of a bloody historic course, are shown coquettishly to the traveller. In this place, visitors live in History; Arkadi with its alive sacrifice; Eleftherna with its breath-taking excavations, graveyards, Zeus Cave on the peak of Psiloritis; The old town of Rethymnon, the exciting outdoor museum, that unfolds before your eyes on every step you take they all create the image of a unique place. Visitors may not see Talos crossing the south beaches of the island. But they shall see the great blue beach that he left by as it is said. They may not watch the libations in Idaio Antro. They shall hear though the bells on Psiloritis and the sound of vrontolyra. They may not see fairies on the shadowed gullies; they shall taste though sweet wine, raki, and the divine products of the local producer’s toll. As they pass by, they may bend before the humble plant dittany (erontas, “love” in Cretan dialect) with its divine scent, basil in the pot, night flowers colouring the yards with scents. They may taste hot home-made bread; they may immerse their hands in the frozen water of Kourtaliotis river. They may follow the down-hilling road to Plakias, they may look mermaids taking life in the blue waves. Their sensations may take life again, and then they can enjoy and taste anything. They may hear mantinada and rizitiko songs. They may dream in Fortezza with the thousand colours of the afternoon.

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Let’s take a walk The centuries passing by were kind on the town of Rethymnon. They made it look more mature, they added modern elements and they maintained the very old buildings, which are remainings of its important course. As its setting is absolutely functional, greatly simple, it fascinates visitors and enchants lucky travellers. Reference point of the old town of Rethymnon is the Venetian port; The Venetian port of Rethymnon, a very beautiful place today full of memories, history and beauty, is an important part of the old town. Old and new restaurants, little boats rocking on the wave and the lighthouse across, they all create a unique heaven-like image of unprecedented beauty. The part of the old town that is behind the port has the majority of the old

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houses with Venetian and Turkish elements. Doors frames, architectural Venetian elements, old noble house on every step you take. This town has been collecting traces of civilizations that passed by and left their impression on it. On every step, there is a different image that replaces the previous one. A lintel, a capital, an inscription of unique taste; A noble house that is a historic body full of tragedy, a silent minaret that tears the sky and next to it the psalmodies in the old church, they mix cultures and experiences. Next the sound o lyre dresses the air. Narrow streets full of scents coming out of the windows, grilles hanging over their heads, a narrow strip of sky up and the sun thrown its gold dust on the eternal stones. On this old canvas with the huge


endlessly the monuments; It completes its own strokes and makes this place beautiful and provocatively alive. history, people create; Respect their memories, roots, origin. Complete the town with respect. Basil and rosemary and peppermint and baked bread and incense and vrontolyra; Raki glasses sounds and laughter and beauty. They all create unseen images on every step. You go on and get united with the place. Here you don’t feel read history. You are a part of the history. Avery building expresses a different era. Every corner is a remnant of a conqueror; Every curve is a report, a classic message, a story. This town talks, narrates. It mixes myth and history together. And all these become a song, a mantinada (Cretan couplet), a rizitiko (Cretan folk song). This is how Rethymnon goes through the time. It shows its course proudly. It respects

The Venetian domination has endowed Rethymnon with a series of sites. On the junction of Palaiologou and Arkadi streets, there is the Venetian Loggia that has restored and today beautiful as it is it accommodates GNTO’s (Greek National Tourism Organisation) branch. Loggia, during the Venetian domination, was the centre of the town’s social life. Very close to the Palaiologou and Thessaloniki crossing, there lays Rimonti fountain, which is one of the most elegant monument fountains of Renaissance taste, It has four columns with Corinth capitals and three lion heads that run water. It was built in 1626 and it was named after Rimonti, a Venetian Rector of the town, whose symbol is on the fountain. Through narrow streets of unprecedented taste, full of sounds and scents,

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smiles and life, you go the way up to the giant of the town, the well-known Fortezza. You follow the paved roads. And as you see the stone-built walls being intact, you feel small and temporary. You rise your eyes and see the sharp and vigorous stone-built lines of the castle. And even higher you see the ramparts as unsleeping sentinels. You have the feeling that at this altitude you may hear the sound of the bullet that disturbs the silence the centuries. You go through the long tunnel of the entrance bending and silent as if you bore the burden of all these centuries. You smell the rivers of sweat, blood and the thousands of lost lives. And then you are at the Fortezza of Rethymnon. You can no longer hear the men who built this giant heaving; Nor the cries of the injured people, You can no longer see the thousands of dead people, blood has been washed out. Now you can hear children’s voices tearing the air, the sounds of lyre from the close theatre, The enchanting sight of the sea excites you. And in the evening, sunset paints the mountains with its melancholic shades. On the right and left, the town embraces the castle as it is rooted on a hill looking at the sea. This Castle and its town, conciliated, in an eternal set go through the centuries. They are a set that fate united. On the entrance of the Castle, today there is the Archaeological Museum of Rethymnon where the old Turkish prison used to be. The remainings of the Turkish domination are scattered all over the town. They are buildings maintained in excellent shape that declare the history of the place; Neratze mosque is one of

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the most typical samples of the Turkish architecture in the town; The emblem of the mosque is the minaret with 133 steps. Initially, here was located the Venetian church of Santa Maria. Nowadays, it has been restored and used as a Conservatorium and concert hall. On Radamanthios street, we meet the impressing Turkish baths. Another impressive mosque of the area is Kara Musa mosque, at the southern part of Arkadiou street. Here it used to be a Franciscan church, but Kara Musa Passa, commander of the first Turkish troops, turned it into a mosque. Nowadays, the Department of Byzantine Monuments is located here. The square of Four Martyrs is dedicated with the homonymous church to the four martyrs and it marks the boarders of the old town. Here is porta guora (great gate) the only entrance of the old town that is saved. It was named after Giakomo Guora, rector of the town during the 16th century. Next to it there is the mosque of Great Gate (Megali Porta) built during the first years of the Turkish domination. It was dedicated to Valide Sultan, Sultan’s mother and this is why it was named Valide Sultana Mosque. At the old town, at Nikiforos Fokas street we meet the church of Kyria ton Aggelon. It was built by the Venetians and it was turned into a mosque during the Turkish Domination. After liberation it became again a Christian church. Apart from the archaeological museum, it is worth visiting Historical Folklore Museum, at M. Vernardos street. It is located in a restored building that is one of the most typical samples of this trend of architecture. The Rethymnon Centre for Contemporary Art is particularly interesting as it


exposes mostly works of contemporary Cretan painters. The municipal garden on the boarders of the old town offers the calmness, the coolness and the relaxation that is need to continue your travel to the town. The sea had a catalytic role on Rethymnon, its history and the life of its residents. It united this place with the rest of Greece; It assisted the development of the commerce and the transfer of wealth to Rethymnon; It was the element that brought the conquerors and also many suffers to the people. First the Venetian, then the Turks and last the Germans, brought slavery, slaughtering and desert from the sea. For centuries, the sea carved with patience and created great beaches that visitors enjoy until today. Vast beaches and other smaller ones, all very beautiful, with their unique colours create magical images. The beaches of the prefecture on the south and the north offer unique joy. Have fun!

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Fortezza This place, the rock of Fortezza has been a worship place since antiquity. The residents of the town had built at this place a temple dedicated to Artemis that was named Rockea, i.e. goddess of the Rock (Rock+thea). The ten years that lasted the construction of Fortezza, for all repair works and the works that were deemed to be necessary, 107,142 residents were occupied in forced labour status and 40,205 animals were commanded. The first stone on the foundation of the castle was set by the Venetian Councillor Molin on 13 September 1573. The financially and culturally prosperous town had fortified even before the building of Fortezza. The initial walls started from Sochora and reached the Venetian port that is still saved intact up to today. Later a second wall was built that started from Agnostos Stratiotis square and it ended at the steeps of the south-western side of the rock. This means that all “Rethemnos” was inside walls. Apart from the fact that these walls proved to be unable to protect the town from the repeated invasions of the pirates and the calamities caused by the barbarian Asia people, there were also the beautiful beaches with the fine sand that unfolded in an endless golden ribbon from this beautiful port up to the

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beaches of Milopotamos. For all the reasons above, the construction of Fortezza was decided. The residents of Rethemnos have been working for 10 years to complete the fortress. Forced to work here, they shed their blood and sweat and they paid endless taxes. When the works came to end and an almost impregnable castle and a number of public buildings were manufactured, they stubbornly denied leaving the insecurity of the burnt Rethemnos and to perch in the safety of the fortified Fortezza. Latins didn’t go there either. The places for the camping of the garrison, the storage places, the military hospital, the church, the colossal residency with 19 doors, 81 windows and 1382 steps of the lead-covered roof, and also the rest of the public buildings did not make room for the resident houses to be built. The Castle had four ramparts that were named as follows: Agios Loukas, Panagia, Profitis Ilias and Sotiros. One cavaliero - tower - and corner cortinas curtains. Its circumference from land and sea was 764 steps and it had thirty guns in total. Water tanks, dug in the guts of the rock, were invulnerable from cannonade of any intensity and duration and they cause even nowadays admiration on their exquisite technical perfection.


Archaeological Museum of Rethymnon The Archaeological Museum of Rethymnon was founded in 1887 by the Society of the Friends of Education of Rethymnon. Today it is housed in the pentagonal bastion in front of the central/east gate of the Fortezza. This building represents one of the fortified construction works accomplished by the Turks, who chose this location in order to defend the central entrance to the fortress. The archaeological findings are exhibited in the Museum in archaeological order and include the following collections:

riod mainly from the archaeological sites of Axos and Eleftherna. 5.Objects from the Classical, Hellenistic and Roman Period, mainly from the areas of Stavromenos and Argyroupolis. This unit boasts Roman oil lamps with various depictions, gold jewellery from the area of Stavromenos and glass vessels from the Hellenistic and Roman period. 6.Collection of coins.

1.Late Neolithic and Proto-Minoan findings, mainly vessels, tools and figurines from the Gerani and Melidoni caves.

7.Figurines from Melidoni and Axos as well as pots of unknown origin from the Classical and Hellenistic period.

2.Objects of the Middle-Minoan period found at the archaeological sites of Monasteraki, Apodoulou and Vryssina. Most interesting in this unit are the collection of seals from Monasteraki and the replica of a settlement from the same area.

8.Inscriptions from the area of Eleftherna 9.Collection of sculptures from the areas of Stavromenos, Eleftherna and Argyroupolis.

3.Findings of the Late Minoan period mainly from the cemetery of Armeni, but also from other areas such as Mastabas, Stavromenos, Pangalochori and Syvritos. The objects include bronze tools and weapons, an impressive serrated helmet, a large variety of ceramics, jewellery and cameos; as well as earthenware figurines, one of which depicts the famous goddess with raised hands from Pangalochori. Furthermore, the earthenware urns with floral and geometrical ornaments, mainly finds from the cemetery of Armeni, are also interesting. 4.Findings of the Geometrical - Archaic Pe-

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Modern Art Museum of Crete Gallery “L. Kanakakis” The Municipal Gallery “L. Kanakakis” was founded in 1992. In the beginning, it was accommodated in a Venetian building in the heart of the old historic town of Rethymnon, after Fortezza and the Archaeological Museum.In the Permanent Collection works of Lefteris Kanakakis (oil, sketches and aquarelle) are exhibited covering the most representing of his works and works of contemporary Greek artists covering a wide spectrum of the contemporary Greek painting reality since 1950. In 1995, Rethymnon was integrated in the National Cultural Network of Cities leading to the foundation of the Museum of Contemporary Art of Crete that orientated

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the activities of the Gallery towards modern art.The Museum of Contemporary Art of Rethymnon has developed intense activity in the sector of periodic exhibitions of local, national and also international interest in collaboration with many cultural bodies in Greece and abroad. All organizations are framed by parallel events (lectures, educational programs, discussions, seminars etc.). The exhibition activity of the M.C.A.C.Municipal Gallery “L.Kanakakis” is completed by the issuing of lists and other educational or information documents. At the same time, since 1995 under the auspices of M.C.A.C., painting workshops are also organized.


Arkadi Monastery The Arkadi Monastery that is dedicated to the memory of the Christ Transfiguration and Saint Constantine and Saint, has a particular importance as it is the most typical sample of the Cretan Renaissance but also due to its forceful participation to the Cretan liberation fights, with its highest offer being the siege and the selfsacrifice of the fighters of 1866 who were behind the walls. The first verified details on the Monastery come from the early 16th century, when the first initial, onenave Catholicon of the church was built. In 1572, under the lead of the owner of the Monastery, Matthaios Kallergis, and the abbot, Klimis Hortatzis, the Monastery was turned into coenobitic. Then the building of the new-naves Catholicon started, with the resplendent façade made of carved limestone, which was directly affected by the works of great architects Sebastiano Serlio and Andrea Palladio. Arkadi Monastery is a four-sided complex of great dimensions (73.80 x 78.80 meters), including the great courtyard in the middle southern of which there is the new Catholicon. At the western wing, where the main gate with the arched passage is located, there are vaulted storage areas at the ground floor and the monks’ cells on the first floor. On the north wing there is the modern abbey that replaced the first one that was destroyed and next to it there is a great gate that leads to the close yard of the common dinning room. Eastern of the

dinning room and on both sides of the great vaulted room, “sarnitsi” (a shaft with rain water) that has under its bottom a tank with the same dimensions, kitchen, oven, kneading room, food stores and two-floored cells for the monks. Next the wing ends at the wine-storage room, that was turned into a powder magazine in 1866, it got blown up by Konstantinos Giamboudakis, killing both enemies and friends. The eastern gate follows and then, mainly the two-floor cells of the eastern wing. The eastern part of the south wing at the ground floor with the closed arch is called “Mesokoumia” and it accommodated the elder and ill monks and on the first floor there are cells with a wide corridor before them. Next, going to the west there are the continuous vaulted areas that were used as storage areas for oil and wine for which the Monastery has always been famous. The new Museum is to be located here where the newer building are above the storage rooms. On the west part of the Monastery, there is a great complex of barns that consists of three vaulted areas and that was built in 1714. Arkadi Monastery, had been a centre of education and manuscripts copying and also of needlework with gold. Many manuscripts are salvaged in libraries abroad, while an important number of gold-embroidered canonical robes, that were needled by monk-artists are exposed in the Museum or salvaged to various, important Orthodox centres.

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Rethymno - Bali From the centre of the town, we look for an exit to the national road (either from Atsipopoulos junction on the west part of the town or from Misiria 3 km. on the east part) and we drive to the east, towards Herakleion. At the 9th km of the new national road Rethymnon - Herakleion, along the beach of Adelianos Kampos (Plain) area appear most of the hotel complexes of the area. At the 21st km we reach the junction of Panormos, if we take the right turn we get into a seaside village with the remnants of the exquisite woodenroof palaiochristian Basilica church of Agia Sofia and the nice little bay for swimming. Panormos was in antiquity the seaport of Ancient Eleftherna. When we return to the new national road and we go on the east, at the 34th km we reach the seaside settlement Bali with the great clean beaches and the advanced touristic infrastructure. At a distance of just 28 kilometres east-

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ern Rethymnon, this fishing village that has been transformed to a seaside resort has a glorious history. Venetians called it Atali after its ancient name that was Astali. The Monastery of Atali is close to it and it keeps the medieval name of the place. It is built on an elevated small peninsula, and therefore it looks at the bay and the sea. With its little port, cafeterias, restaurants, snack bars, good resorts and three beaches in three little gulfs, it offer a great environment for your vacations, even if its older visitors insist that it used to be more picturesque. In the heart of summer you can travel to Rethymnon with a sea-taxi. Naturally, you can also travel to the mountain on the southern part of the prefecture. One should visit Idaio Cave, where the myth says that Zeus was born hunted by his own father Cronus. The myth also says that the mountain that is on the south of Bali is the mountain that Zeus gave to the Cretans for the mechanical giant Talos to stand and guard the island from invaders in return for the protection he received.


Anogia

The “Ano Gi” (High Land) of Psiloritis and of the whole Crete as well is not just the place where visitors meet after a lovely route from the beginning of time passing through small valleys and multiform hills, that haven’t changed a lot since the ancient years. “Anogia is the first place that you meet when coming down from the sky...” says Loudovikos of Anogia (singer). And as exaggerated as the words of the Anogia artist may seem, in reality there is a secret, like an invisible string, connecting this great place with divinity. The secret of this special Cretan place may be in the deep and irresistible power of Psiloritis, the Mother Earth that gave birth to Greek Myths. (The same goddess whom the Minoans worships as the Great Mother who had, though, always been on human levels and dimensions). On the road to Anogia, the double nature of Crete reveals. On the one hand when crossing the low valleys of Tylissos

or Milopotamos areas, you perceive the fertile side of Crete that as genuine archaic Mother Land gives birth to the myths and the legends that accompany its residents for centuries. On the other hand, when reaching to Anogia and looking on the south, the imposing volume and formations of Idi, as Psiloritis was called in Antiquity, reveal accommodating another world, another nature. For centuries, these two different aspects of Crete keep a continuous fertile dialog which is necessary for the existence of a vital equilibrium physical and mental as well. Here in Anogia visitors feel that there is another Crete with ancient memories saved in everyday life of the resident, in festivities and songs, in myths and the ancestral memory of this world who has founded its whole history and existence based on one notion: Pride. In Anogia, visitors feel the reason why Psiloritis apart from materials, force and sacred mountain, it is also the soul of Crete. Contemporary Anogia keep the traditional virtues that were saved alive

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through centuries. There are many shops, tourist infrastructure, brusque smiley people who are solid as their mountains. There are churches, cultural events all year long, feasts, lyre, and living. Listen carefully to the sound of History, respect memories, their monuments that are marks of the years that passed by. The road from Axos leads to the first quarter, to Perachori that is full of plane trees and waters. Then follows a great up-hilling turn that leads to Armi - the centre of Anogia - and at the last level to picturesque Metochi. There are monuments and statues indicating the long course in time. Mountains all around circle you in a unique embrace. Anogia people are different from the rest of Cretans. They keep the traditional life style intact in dressing and social events. The village participated in all the fights of Crete. During World War II, it was an important nest of resistance. The guerrilla kidnapper of the German military Commander Von Kreipe kept him here before he escaped to Africa. In retaliation, Germans killed all the men they found in the village and destroyed it completely. After liberation, its residents built it back. Anogia is the land of music and festivals. Residents are extremely respectful to the local culture. Xylouris’ family - a very important family of musicians - comes from here. The voice of Nikos Xylouris is known all over the world. An important cultural movement extends around his name and work. Events, concerts. The theatre of the town is named after him; His statue stands in the centre the town; His music is worshipped. Let’s not forget an important generation of local artists, Vasilis Skoulas, Nikiforos Aerakis,

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Psarantonis and many others and many young ones continue the tradition of Cretan music. Mantinadologoi (mantinada composers) create and constantly develop the art of mantinada composing, the great sample of popular Cretan poetry. The village is one of the greatest centres of craftsmanship, home industry of Crete. The produced items of high taste and quality bear the seal and the culture of the local tradition. Embroideries and woven articles decorate the courtyards and make houses more beautiful. A comfortable asphalt-paved road from the dependency monastery leads to the slopes of Psiloritis. After approximately 6 km in Zominthos area, recent excavations brought to light a Minoan villa. After going up for about 20 km were are in Nida, the exquisite mountainous scenery under the shadow of Psiloritis. Antartis monument (Guerrilla: A Monument for Peace) made by the German Karina Raeck of 5000 stones from Psiloritis, is a homage to the resistance of the people of the area. The great mountain of the Cretans is linked with the worship to Zeus. Tradition says that Idi is the place where the father of gods was born and spent the first years of his life. According to tradition, Rea hided him here to protect him from Cronus who devoured his children because the prophecy said that they would deprive him of his power. Two nymphs, Adrasteia and Idi, look after the baby. They fed it with honey and milk from the goat Amalthea. Kouretes clapped their shields and with this noise masked the divine cries to prevent Cronus from hearing them. Kouretes’ dancing is the ancestor of the contemporaneous Cretan dances.


Idian Cave was a centre of worship since the pre-historic and roman years. The cave is on a spacious plateau of rocks where the dug rectangular shrine surrounded by terraces amphitheatrically inclined which is also curved on the rock. Its interior is divided in three chambers and the sanctuary. The initiation of the believers was performed in the depth of the Cave. In the area around the cave, excavations have shown steps on the rock and bronze statues. In the cave items were found made of bone and ivory, metal guns and tools, bronze statues and statuettes, equipment, dedicatory shields with hunting scenes depicted on them during 8th and 7th century. These findings certify the presence of people in the case since the Neolithic times. The birth and death of Zeus indicate the disappearance of vegetable life, Winter and its rebirth in Spring. Every year, there birth of Zeus was celebrated. There are common characteristics between the fires coming out from the cave with the light on the Resurrection of Jesus Christ. During these mystic festivities, residents from all over Greece come bearing important gifts and dedications. Minoa came to this sanctuary every nine years to renew his term and to received instructions and divine laws. It is worth visiting Skinakas Observatory. The mountainous area favours animal breeding. Thousands of sheep and goats are bred on the mountainous area of Psiloritis and they produce the exquisite milk that is used for the well-known diary products of the area. Graviera, kefalotyri, mizithra cheeses are exquisite products made following the traditional method. A series of social events with wide effect was developed based

on pastoral lifestyle. The shearing of sheep in June is the cause for great feast, food, drink, dance and fun. On the slopes, mitata (huts) are true architectonical miracles. Anogia, a live, hospitable society shall excite you. On the downhill road to Rethymnon, a crossing on the left leads to Zoniana village. Close to this village there is “Trypa tou Sfendoni” (The Hole of Sfendoni) cave. The perfection of the scenery here is fascinating. On one hand, the cave that is surrounded by immense rocks, the small fountain and the great view create a unique image. Cave is also impressive. We go on passing through Livadeia village. The village is in the middle of a basin with trees. It was built in the 13th century as it is stated by the church of Evagelismos. It is one of the few villages that Turks never set foot on. We cross the last villages of Psiloritis and we end up in Perama. It is the seat of the Municipality, a little town with important infrastructure and production, mostly of dairy and gardening products. Here, the Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Milopo-tamos produces oil and dairy products of exquisite quality that it worth tasting.

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Axos

In the area of the current village Axos, used to be the ancient town of Oaxos, one of the most important towns of ancient Crete that flourished from Late Minoan period and the Geometric era up to the Roman and later years. Archaeologists have brought to light the rich variety of remnants from the ancient town including the temple of Aphrodite, Deanery, tombs and various architectural remnants. The walls of the acropolis should have been impressive. There are parts of it that are still visible on the top of the hill. The Italian Archaeological Department started excavations in 1899 by bringing to light various findings including Minoan shells, stone vessels, inscriptions and many statuettes depicting a naked female body that has been interpreted as the Goddess of fertility. Ruins of buildings of the Classic era were also detected

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on which later buildings - mostly Byzantine churches - were constru-cted.The town kept on flourishing both in Roman and in Byzantine years during which it used to be the Episcope seat and it had many churches. At the location Livada, at the north-eastern part of the village, ruins of an archaic settlement have come to light indicating the extent of ancient Axos. Nowadays, Axos, as a very beautiful little town full of life, is a middle station on our trip to Anogia. Here there are taverns and an exceptional agrotourism unit, Enagron.


Margarites 25 km from Rethymnon, at the northwestern side of Psiloritis, there perches the historic village of Margarites as they are built on a heaven-like scenery between olive-trees, locust trees and cypress trees. Their agricultural location is advantageous. It looks at the Cretan sea. It is easily accessible from the national road and the town of Rethymnon. The first testimony on the inhabitation goes back to the Minoan years 1450 BC. The area was in antiquity the seaport under the power of Ancient Eleftherna. In 1332 it became the centre for the Kallergis revolution against the Venetian domination. Immediately after the suppression of the revolution, the village is completely destroyed and its rebuilding started immediately. It was then that the great churches, towers and villas were built. In the 17th century it was the patriarch exarchate of Margarites and it was subjected directly to the Patriarch of Constantinople. When the Greek Liberation Fight ended in 1829-30, it used to be the seat of the Revolutionary Council. It was from here that the agonizing letters of the revolts were sent to the great powers prompting them to examine the Cretan issue with a more favourable view. Gabriel Marinakis was born here. He was the abbot of Arkadi Monastery during the revolution and the holocaust of 1866. Additionally, Margarites are also internationally known for the ceramics that flourish here since antiquity. Furthermore, today pottery art flourishes still in the

village’s workshops. Old and new potter artists create exquisite items for use or decoration. This village attracts thousands of visitors who come here due to its ceramic tradition and to see the churches with the frescos, the great narrow streets and the picturesque nature all around. The monastery of Sotiros pinned on a hill at the beginning of the village stands out with its gardens and the great view. Every year, Margarites is the theatre for many events with “Margarika”, an international festival on ceramics and “BUDALIA”, a youth performance among others. The last few years, tourism infrastructure is being built that is able to accommodate easily a great number of visitors. A short wandering to the close stone-built settlements of Margarites shall compensate your toll. At the south of Margarites, the road passes through virgin forests and cultivated areas and it reaches the ancient town of Eleftherna and the contemporaneous settlement of Eleftherna. This way, we can go to the villages of Amari and Pano Riza, or we can go back to the villages Roupes, Skouloufia and reach Viran Episcopi and its Palaiochristian basilica. On the right, there is village Alfa where the excellent stone is processed. This is where Kostas Mountakis, the well-known lyre artist and singer comes from. The road goes to Lagas with the church of Panagia Lagiani and the small folklore collection that is exhibited in the School hall.

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Eleftherna Excavations in the area of Eleftherna started 16 years ago, in 1985, when the Department of History and Archaeology of University of Crete decided to search and bring to the light the ancient town that became known by literature testimonies. The British Archaeological School under the direction of H. Payne has also conducted a small research in the area in1929. Remnants have been discovered in the wide area of two contemporaneous villages, Eleftherna and Ancient Eleftherna, that are at the northern foothills of Psiloritis and at a distance of 24 and 29 kilometres from the town of Rethymnon respectively. In particular, the most important findings have been detected at three positions of a hill that is «placed» between two converging streams: at the location, Orthi Petra, at the western side of the hill, the location Pyrgi in the centre of the hill and at the location Katsivelos at the western side of the hill. Findings excavated in the area Nisi, close to the contemporaneous village “Eleftherna” are also important containing mostly remaining of a settle-

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ment of the Hellenistic era.At the location, Orthi Petra, excavation team with archaeologist Professor Mr. Stampolidis in charge, has brought to light the necropolis (cemetery) of the Geometrical and Archaic period, and also Hellenistic and Roman buildings and roads built on older ones. At the location of Pyrgi, on the top of the hill, where the central residential kernel of the town is, professor of Archaeology Mr. Ath. Kalpaxis has discovered segments of buildings dated back to the Roman and Palaio-Christianic years, while at the eastern part of the hill, at the area of the contemporaneous village “Ancient Eleftherna”, professor of Archaeology Mr. P. Themelis has excavated a part of the settlement in all chronological phases, from the pre-historic up to the palaio-christianic gears. In the place where professor P. Themelis conducted excavations, Hellenistic retaining walls, Roman buildings and baths and also a three-aisled palaio-christian basilica with nave and an admirable mosaic decoration that depicts patterns of geometry and plants.


Rethymnon - Episkopi - Argyroupoli A small route with important natural beauties and significant historic monuments, just a few kilometres outside Rethymnon. We take the road to Chania. At about 15 kilometres from the town we meet a small very beautiful beach, Petres, and immediately after it there is the great beach of Episkopi. They are very beautiful beaches with restaurants and many rooms to let. On a deviation on the right, an up-hilling road leads to Episkopi. It is the last village of the prefecture of Rethymnon the west. It has been populated since the early Byzantine period (325-824) as the remnants of the palaio-christan church that were discovered in 1959 at Fountana fountain show. The church had exquisite mosaic floors in cross shapes. During the second Byzantine period, it was the episcopate seat that was transferred from Lappa. The episcopate seat was called Kalamonas and the episcopate church was dedicated to Agios Nicolaos and nowadays it is deserted. A road of almost five kilometres leads to Argyroupoli. The village is built at an altitude of 260 metres at a picturesque location between the rivers Mouselas and Petre where Ancient Lappa used to be. Its name may come from the Mint for silver coins that existed in the area. Many Byzantine churches are saved, such the church of Agies Parthenoi, Agia Kyriaki and Evagelismos. The church of Agios Ioannis, aka Agia Dynami, located in a cave where Mouselas river springs, is very picturesque. The springs of Argyroupoli as it is a place covered by

huge trees, waters, waterfalls and heavenly-like taverns, it is a place that thousands of locals and strangers visit. In the taverns we can enjoy the exquisite taste of antikristo lamb, next to waterfalls and with the music of the air singing as it passes by the leaves. It is worth visiting Asi gonia, the most beautiful village with many waters and trees which leans on the slope and it creates an ideal image for the White Mountains. A turn to the left at a crossing, behind the village of Argyroupoli, leads to Myriokefala. It is named after the myria kefalia (thousand heads (hills), that exist in the area. It was populated after the 11th century and it was the base of the fighters against the Turks and the Venetians. This area is known for its monastery. The Monastery of Myriokefala is built at an altitude of 500 meters. It is said that it was established by Ioannis Xenos, on the 11th century. In 1770, the Turks destroyed it and in 1900 it was built again. A lot later, it was characterized as a holy pilgrim and nowadays it is a church. It celebrates on the 8th September. On the monastery, there is a picture of Virgin Mary made following the Byzantine style.

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Rethymnon - Armenoi - Ag. Vasileios Kannevos - Kotsifos gorge - Rodakino

We take the south-eastern road to Spili. A deviation on the right leads to Agios Vasileios. On the route, we meet very beautiful villages and evergreen areas. On the road there are taverns and very good food. After Agouseliana and Agios Ioannis, a turn to the right leads to Kali Sykia. It is very beautiful village, all covered in the green of vines and olive trees. Just after Kannevos we meet Kotsifos Gorge. Kotsifos Gorge starts from Kannevos village and ends to Plakias. Its starting point is very narrow with a width of about 10m that is gradually increased and reaches 600 m. Its total length is 1,800 m. and its almost perpendicular sides reach 600 m in height. Within the gorge there is a small church built within a rocky cavity. Along the river there is also an asphaltic road. At the bottom of the gorge there is

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important shore vegetation and on its rocky steep coasts there is firewood. The road goes on the hill having a great view and it leads to Rodakino village. This village is built on a altitude of 120 m. The road ends to the great beaches of Korakas and Rodakino. They are very beautiful and with crystal clear water and they the ideal place for swimming. In Polyrizos area there is a fully equipped hotel offering all comforts. In this area there are taverns serving good food. It is at the bay of Korakas that Arkadi ship docked; Arkadi was transferring ammunition to the Rebelled Cretans during the Greek War of Independence in 1821. In Ano Rodakino there are the churches of Agios Georgios and Agio Pnevma (Holy Spirit) on the top of Kryoneritis. All the area is very beautiful and every year it is a place of visit for many tourists. The road goes on and reaches Sfakia.


The South of Rethymnon Talos was a giant metallic robot, given by god Hephaestus to king Minoa to protect the island from pirates and malicious invaders. And he did this and even more. He turn Crete three times a day. The third time, as he walked on his tiptoes by the coasts of the Libyan sea, he sloped towards the land. His heavy soles were flattening mountains, pulverized rocks by leaving giant traces. Then the sea, with its reciprocating caresses, tried to heal the wounds that the copper giant left behind. This is how the beaches of the Libyan sea were created, as the myth says. This is way all beaches are called ammoudia (small grains of sand). Visitors may hear a lot of stories for the braches of the Libyan sea. For Agios Pavlos with its sand-dunes, Triopetra with its unthinkable beauty, Preveli with its river and palm trees. Noth-

ing compares to the truth. In order to grasp the magic of this place, one must be there. Under the first or the last sun ray of the day; under the full moon of August or the frost of the autumn; then one may only see the difference between the other seas and this exotic sea that touches both Crete and Africa. Then he/ she shall discover that far beyond the tripping of Talos, the southern part of Rethymnon bears other secrets as well; the secret of revolution and resistance, of art and civilization of its very old history and of hospitality. They are classic secrets. unique colours. Inviolate in the course of time. The narrow Strip of the Cretan land raised important myths that brew one generation after the other. Greek mythology refers to this area, where the ancient Greek town Phoenix and Lamon that dominated

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until the classic era. Zeus, who was raised in Idi Mountain, was metamorphosed in to a white bull and by flying over the waves; he brought Europe, the Queen of Phoenicia, to the Preveli Palm Forest. Goddess Artemis and nymph Brittomartys often hunted in this area. Dionysoi islands (Paximadia) belonged to the God of Wine, Dionysus. Phoinikias, is the place from where Apostle Paul set his foot for the first time on Europe. In the geographic set of Gialia there are some locations that are important to remember. They seal the region with their beauty and traits. Preveli gorge with the Great River and Palm trees. The gorge of Kourtaliotis with the eternal water spouting from the bowels of the earth during Winter and Earth. Kotsifos gorge that is a passage from the villages of Ag. Vasileios. Patsos Gorge with the impressive vegetation; The Plateau Kampos of Io (the nymph goddess of sun rise and Sun); The close tops of the mountains, with a divine atmosphere and endless view, that are ideal for trekking (Kryonoeritis 1312 m., Kouroupas 934 m).

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Beaches, like true diamonds that decorate the southern coast of Rethymnon, Gialia; Rodakino with Polyrizo beach that is virgin, all-clean with the trees mirrored on the wave; Plakias bay with its perfect infrastructure, hotel complexes, restaurants, very clean beaches; The mystery Souda, Plakias, Mikro and Megalo Ammoudi, Schoinaria, Preveli, Akoumiani Gialia, Triopetra, Agios Pavlos; Each one of them had its own unique features. Each one of them is different, characteristic, and unique. Nevertheless, they all offer unique moments of relaxation. The centre and reference point of the area is Plakias. Here everything is celebrated: The traditional distillation procedure of raki; The shearing of sheep in June; The traditional stepping on grapes with feet and the variety of mezes and drinks accompanying the feast. At the churches of the villages, the anniversary of the patron saint is an occasion for big festivals. Klidonas feast, on 24th June, this ancient Greek festival causes fun out of the ordinary. All these take place with the smile and the inherent nobility and hospitality.


Plakias

The centre and reference point of the area is Plakias. It is a very beautiful beach and a settlement built circularly and it is embraced by the wave. There are small hotels, rooms to let and restaurants that are enough for the numerous summer visitors. The resort keeps its authenticity and colour that made it popular among its visitors. It offers peace, calmness, light, scents and an unseen nobility. In Plakias you may find anything you need, since there are a lot stores and super markets, car hire and travel agencies. In Plakias, there are cafeterias and bars. But those who choose to spent their vacations here, they come for the clean sea and the many beautiful beaches of the area. Plakias Beach starts from the village and it is extended to the east. It is

one of the greatest beaches of Crete that offers still the sense of comfort and abundant free space, fulfilling at the same time all tastes, since its eastern end is preferred by naturists. There are stall showers along the beach and a lot of parking lots. If during the days you are in Plakias the bags of god Aeolus (if there are a lot of strong winds) and the southern wind beats you up with the sand, travel to the west to Suda beach. It is a beautiful beach, that is on a more lee side. You can find here as well small hotels and a few taverns. Other beautiful beaches near Plakias are Damnoni, Ammoudi and Mikro Ammoudi that is also a naturists’ beach. A little further, there is Lefkogeia and Schoinaria, a beach that love those who dive. Near Plakias, in Kalypso hotel, there is also a diving centre.

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Rethymnon - Spili - Agia Galini Our starting point is Rethymnon and we follow the main road that crosses the prefecture from the north to the south. The first village we meet in our route is Armenoi at a distance of 10 km. Immediately after Armeni village, we can have a deviation of 5km on the right to the village Foteinou to admire the exceptional fountain of the 17th century. Back on our route, on the 26th km we reach Mixoroumas village where the traditional art of basketry is still exercised. The eastern deviation from Mixoroumas leads to the village of Lampini where we can admire the Byzantine church of Panaghia. After 4 km there is the village of Spili, the capital of the Municipality of Lampis, with the crystal clear waters running from the fountains of the central square. It is a wonderful village with many

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shadowed spots and stores and a lot of water. Since 1953, it is the seat of the cathedral church of the area. During the Turkish domination, Spili was present to the fights of the Nation. We leave Spili behind and we follow the main road.The deviation on the 35th km at the village of Kissos Kampos (Plain) leads to a series of villages such as Adraktos, Drimiskos, Kerame and mainly to the exquisite beach of Ligres. At the 39th km, there is the village Akoumia with its church of Sotiros with the great frescos and if we take a right turn in the village, we shall reach the great Akoumiani Gialia and Triopetra.They are enchanting beaches with crystal clear waters and numerous rooms


to let that are comfortable and cover all accommodation needs. Taverns with very clean kitchen and fresh fish, people with unique nobleness and integrity that shall be your friends from the first moment. Triopetra was named after the three funny stones-rocks that exist on the beach. The last few years, many visitors discover the magic of the south coast of Rethymnon. At the 45th km and immediately after the crossroad to Agios Pavlos and Melampes there lies the village of Krya Vrysi. Either following this deviation or going straight from the central road after travelling 58 km, we reach the seaside resort of Agia Galini. It is a friendly village next to the port where you can go either by bus, taxi or car. Hotels, apartments and studios shall cover conveniently your accommodation. There is a

great variety of taverns and restaurants and also bars and cafeterias that supplement the night life of Agia Galini. You can enjoy refreshing baths and sea sports in the Libyan sea or you can have long and calm walks on the mountains around the village. During your stay in Agia Galini, you could visit close archaeological sites such as Phaistos, Agia Triada and Gortyna, you can have an exciting boatsailing to Preveli or you could go sailing for fishing to Agios Georgios! Agia Galini is about 1 hour and a half by car from Herakleion and Chania and just 1 hour from Rethymnon. This village is ideal for walking and getting acquainted with the narrow streets and people. It is built amphitheatrically and it has a great view. It is a proper choice for family vacations. Traffic is only met on the main road. Agia Galini shall cover all your demands. Visit it!

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ÊÑÇÔÉÊÏÉ ÁÐÏÇ×ÏÉ Õðåýèõíïò ýëçò - Ýêäïóçò: Ìé÷Üëçò ÊáñôóÜêçò • Ôçë.: 6937 258591 • Å-mail: kartsaki@otenet.gr • ÌåôáöñÜóåéò: ÁããåëéêÞ ÔóéÜðïõ Äçìéïõñãéêü êáôá÷ùñÞóåùí: Êáôåñßíá ÓôáãÜêç

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Rethymno