Ski+board April 2016

Apr 16 online only

Produced by skiers and boarders for skiers and boarders

Exposure: action shots + News + Your letters + An unlikely solution to solve niggly knee pain + Banking on a Balkans bargain + Snow wear

The definitive guide to the

best bars in the Alps High-tech gear

publication

Contents April 2016

5 Exposure Stunning action shots from professional snappers

8 You Say Feedback on buying in the Alps, and one member’s ski wedding

9 NEWS The Arlberg is linking up and Brits win medals at the Youth Olympics

features 10 the best ski bars

10

Ready to party?

We make tracks to the best après-ski bars in the mountains

16

Our definitive guide to the very best bars in the mountains… cheers!

Easy does it on the knees

16 niggly knee pain

One skier investigates ways to calm knee pain, and finds a simple solution

Do your knees give you gyp? One skier solves the pain — but how?

22 Balkans bargain Is Bulgaria ready to rival its Western European neighbours?

regulars 26 gear We test the newest tech, from apps to inclinometer

28 snow wear We showcase some of the best outfits for after the lifts close

Editor’s note Which ski resort in Europe has the most bars per square km? Maybe it’s St Anton (where après-ski revellers at the MooserWirt hurl themselves down the home piste in kamikaze fashion), or Ischgl or even Val d’Isère?

But no. The award — if we can call it that — goes to the rather-less glitzy Bulgarian resort of Borovets. Here the shabby bars pulsate to trashy music, and beer-bellied skiers dance on the tables in 1980s ski gear. Therefore, it won’t come as a surprise that no Bulgarian bars feature in our list of Europe’s best après-ski venues (p10). But we do focus on the bigger Balkan resort of Bansko. It’s been marred by problems since it opened in the early-noughties, and we sent our writer to see if the situation has improved (p22).

Ben Clatworthy Ski+board online Editor online Editor Ben Clatworthy executive Editor Colin Nicholson art director Nicole Wiedemann media sales Madison Bell madisonbell.com 020 7389 0859

22

Banking on Bansko Has Bulgaria’s main resort managed to shake off its decade-old problems?

OVERSEAS MEDIA SALES Martina Diez-Routh martina.diez-routh@skiclub.co.uk +44 (0) 7508 382 781 PublisheR Ski Club of Great Britain London SW19 5SB skiclub.co.uk 020 8410 2000 © Ski Club of Great Britain 2016 All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written permission of the publisher. All prices are correct at time of publication. Opinions expressed in Ski+board are not necessarily those of the Ski Club of Great Britain, nor does the publisher accept responsibility for advertising content.

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5

SKIER Unknown LOCATION St Anton, Austria PHOTOGRAPHER Hans Wiesenhofer

When Austrian photographer Hans Wiesenhofer set about shooting this skier tackling a field of moguls, little did he know that the best frame would not be one of action, but instead a pensive moment of reflection at the end of the run.

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7

SKIERS Various LOCATION Grandvalira, Andorra PHOTOGRAPHER Tim Lloyd

These skiers and boarders may look like models as they traipse up the mountain, but in fact they are some of the world’s best young freeride talent about to compete in the Junior Freeride World Tour.

Photographer Tim Lloyd normally shoots the action, but spotted this novel frame as he too schlepped to the top of the course.

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8

you say

Intermediates gave me the blues with Ski Club Instructor-led guiding

Buying in a resort? Beware of a mountain of bills

We recently used the instructor-led guiding service in Val d’Isère. We had two enjoyable days but were a bit disappointed when three beginners turned up to the off-piste day. We had a pleasant day off the side of a few pistes, but meanwhile the Tignes mob were skiing couloirs. The next day our guide dropped the beginners.

This was a case of being cruel to be kind. Members should book sessions for their ability, so as not to leave the guide in an awkward position.

I would like to add two comments from personal experience on buying property in the Alps (“Good buys are so hard”, February/March 2016) that readers may find valuable: 1. If you are serious about borrowing money to buy a property abroad and your income is paid to you in pounds sterling, then consider a pounds mortgage as opposed to a euro (or other foreign currency) one. By doing so, you are protected against a fluctuating exchange rate when making your repayments. For example, in recent years the euro/ pound exchange rate has moved from 1.40 to almost 1.00 and back again.

Do your sums yourself to realise the risk you are taking.

2. Annual service charges as well as local and national taxes also need to be considered in addition to mortgage costs. In addition to these there’s also the cost of electricity, gas,

John Birkett

Jonny Cassidy writes: We have a policy of being inclusive, but groups must be compatible. We make the expected standard for the day clear on booking.

Argument about forces goes round in the circles Your article on carving in the last issue is simplistic at best. The — somewhat counter-intuitive — fact is that if you travel round a circle of radius r at a constant speed v, you are necessarily accelerating towards the centre of the circle at v2/r. You are correct in saying that one adds vectors via the parallelogram rule, but it is the component, R’, in the plane of the snow, of the force along the skier’s leg that provides the required centripetal acceleration v2/r in accordance with Newton’s Second Law of Motion.

A skier with flatter skis can still carve provided their skis remain bent into reverse camber; if not they skid.

More can be found in The Physics of Skiing: Skiing at the Triple Point.

Keep up the good work against the French ban on guiding. If I were not over 75, and eligible free lift passes, I would boycott France.

Charles Griffin

Our feature on buying property in the Alps in the last issue of Ski+board

contents insurance, a TV licence and phone line rental for wi-fi.

The annual charges for my small apartment in Méribel cost me around £3,250 per annum — which, I’m sure you’ll agree, is no small sum.

Stuart Brandreth

Love from both sides of the pond

When William Winter wrote in the last issue that he was married in Sun Peaks, we couldn’t resist but demand pictures, which he sent us. But he also assures us that he is still in love with Switzerland: Preparing for life after leading for the club, we bought an apartment in Nendaz, a town in the Four Valleys ski area. I am now convinced that,

in spite of its often elderly and inadequate lift system, it has the best ski terrain in the Alps. Nowhere else in the Alps is there so much challenge to choose from, including what for me is the best marked run in the Alps, Eteygeon. It is reached from the top of the Greppon 2 draglift, followed by ten-minutes’ hike. From here there’s almost always untracked powder.

Last issue’s solution

Got something to say? Share it with us at: @TheSkiClub

/theskiclub

skiclub.co.uk/snowtalk

Ski Club of Great Britain, The White House, 57-63 Church Road, Wimbledon Village, London SW19 5SB Or email: ben.clatworthy@skiclub.co.uk

The solution to the Feb/March crossword

news

9

Review: Eddie the Eagle makes great leap onto the big screen this spring

At last! The Arlberg ski area will link to become Austria’s biggest

Colin Nicholson

Ben Clatworthy

Ski+board was given a sneak preview of the film Eddie the Eagle, which will be released nationwide on April 1, and found it moving, funny, and able to take those of us who were ski-mad youngsters in the 1980s back in time.

Purists may ask why the screenwriters used a fictionalised version of the Gloucestershire ski jumper’s training, when the true story seems every bit as colourful, but this is a minor distraction. Hugh Jackman is perfect as the reluctant coach, whose unfulfilled ambitions get the better of him, while Taron Egerton captures Eddie’s naivety, pain and ambition to a tee.

Austria will have a new biggest ski area next season thanks to a new gondola linking St Anton and Lech.

The linked area will become one of the biggest in Europe.

The Flexenbahn gondola will link the villages of Stuben and Zürs, replacing a bus, to finally complete the missing lift-link.

The ten-person Flexenbahn gondola will have the capacity to move some 2,400 people per hour, and will cost a reported €32 million.

Three chairlifts will also be built along with a new blue run.

The Arlberg area — which spans from St Anton to Warth-Schröcken — will boast 305km of slopes, served by 87 lifts.

The lift-linking of the area has been long negotiated, and was finally approved and announced last month.

In the past only expert skiers — with a mandatory guide — were able to ski the full area by tackling a freeride itinerary that descends from

New schools’ snowsports week aims to get children interested in skiing A new initiative to encourage English schools to introduce pupils to snowsports will run next month.

National Schools Snowsport Week will take place at 21 indoor and artificial slopes from April 22 to 29.

Sponsored by Visit Andorra, it will include taster ski and snowboard sessions, introductions to freestyle or racing, as well as tobogganing and tubing. Some activities will be free and others subsidised.

Schools can enter whole classes, year groups, or just a handful of students.

See nssw.co.uk

the top of the Valluga peak.

Although not the biggest in Europe, the new gondola allows Austria to rival French ski areas such as The Three Valleys and Paradiski in terms of size for the first time.

The new gondola is planned to open in December 2016.

Snow wear — page 28

British adaptive skiers dominate World Cup podium in Aspen Ben Clatworthy

Britain’s Paralympic women won gold, silver and bronze at the IPC Alpine Skiing World Cup finals last month — a first for British skiers.

Menna Fitzpatrick and her guide Jennifer Kehoe won the Giant Slalom race for visually-impaired athletes in

Record British medal haul at Youth Winter Olympics The ten-day Winter Youth Olympics came to an end in February, with Britain taking home two gold and two bronze medals from Lillehammer, in Norway.

Madi Rowlands, 15, from Kent won both gold in the Ski Halfpipe and bronze in the Ski Slopestyle, taking Great Britain to 14th out of the 71 participating countries.

This was only the second Youth Winter Games. Lausanne in Switzerland will host the 2020 event.

A new gondola will link Stuben and Zürs to create Austria’s biggest ski area

Britain’s Paralympic skiers celebrate another one, two, three on the podium in Aspen

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Aspen, with Millie Knight and Mike Abromowitz second. Kelly Gallagher and Gary Smith finished third.

The trio then went on to win one, two and three in both Downhill races at the event.

Millie Knight, 17, emerged as the rising star, taking home three gold medals, as well as a silver, bronze and the overall Super-G World Cup title.

Paralympic medallist Kelly Gallagher won gold in the Slalom.

In another British first, Menna Fitzpatrick and her guide Jennifer Kehoe were crowned overall Alpine World Cup Champions, having consistently dominated all the Alpine events on the circuit this season.

Great Britain’s Paralympic team finished the season in third place, beaten only by the US and Germany who finished first and second respectively.

10

are you ready to dance on the tables?

The bars in the Alps have never been so busy as more skiers look to party, says Sam Cope These days where you choose to go skiing is just as likely to be dependent on the après-ski as it is on the number of runs, snow history, altitude or transfer time.

Where to find the best Aperol Spritz, straight-from-the-slopes live music, or after-dinner underground dance floor can all rate just as highly on the list of what’s important.

While America and Canada try hard with their après scenes, it’s safe to say

they’re a million miles behind us partyhard Europeans, who really do know how to après in style.

Whether you’re looking for a Jägerfuelled afternoon dancing, a casual vin chaud on a 360-degree panoramic sun terrace, or a hot chocolate with a cheeky kick next to a roaring fire — the options are limitless.

With this in mind, we’ve compiled a list of our favourite places to head for a drink straight from the snow.

Mooserwirt St Anton

T

Few bars in the Alps can rival the Mooserwirt for party atmosphere. But by 8pm… it’s closed

his place needs no introduction. It’s at the heart of St Anton’s après-ski scene. Playboy magazine has this down as ‘the mother of all ski lodges’ and it’s been named as the best ski hut in Austria twice

by Kleine Zeitung — and we’d have to agree. This place is legendary for its après-ski and anybody who’s anybody heads here straight from the Krazy Kangaroo, a few metres up the piste. In their own words, they’re ‘damn good but damn expensive!’ Oh, and the food is pretty damn good too. Try the ribs washed down with a Jäger and milk — a good drink for Red Bull haters! Finish the night with a trip down the piste in the dark… but try not to break a limb!

11

Folie Douce

Val d’Isère

L

ocated in Val d’Isère on the Pleid Sud blue run, this is the original Folie Douce — and the place to be, and be seen. The action kicks off here at around 3pm with DJs, saxophone players, soul singers and a live MC. By 4pm the party is in full swing with people dancing on tables in their ski boots. If you want a table, get here for lunch at the Fruitière restaurant and order their legendary spag-bol — it will prepare you for the hours of mayhem to come. Expect raving on tables and rounds of Jägerbombs. It also has a VIP area, where you’ll find the occasional Russian oligarch spraying everyone with a €2,000 bottle of champagne. Just a warning, it’s up the mountain so you have to ski home after — for some this is near impossible, but for others it’s the best they ski all week. This is a spectacle not to miss.

In recent years the Folie Douce has emerged as one of the best après-ski chains

Farinet Verbier

I

f you’re after high energy après-ski, this is the place to be. It’s open every day, showcasing live bands and there’s happy hour from 4-5pm. The bar splits into two, with a laid-back lounging area on one side — which serves over 30 signature cocktails — while on the other side brace yourself for a sweaty mosh pit with plastic cups, loud music and mandatory dancing on the bar. The Farinet is slap bang in the middle of Verbier and impossible to miss. Its bar opens every day from 4-9pm and the lounge bar from 3pm-2am, with live DJs on the decks from midnight to close. Try the tapas and sharing plates, served from 5-10pm daily.

Verbier’s Farinet bar is an institution for seasonaires and ski instructors

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Rond Point Méribel

T End of season partying at the Ronnie in Méribel

his is the place to head straight from the slopes in Méribel. Known as the largest après-ski bar in Europe, the sun terrace is always jampacked, with live music every day from 5-7pm.

The Ronnie, as it’s fondly known, is a regular haunt for seasonnaires, and famous for its toffee vodka.

The Petit Rond Point snack bar is the perfect place to soak up the happy hour beer and there’s also a restaurant offering everything from a three-course set lunch to pizza and salads.

Smithy’s

Les Deux Alpes

T

his is one of the best bars on the après-ski circuit. The action kicks off from 10pm and Smithy’s is the first calling point before people head for Smokey Joes and, finally, Avalanche — the main club in the resort. There are live bands and DJs, a pool table, darts and friendly bar staff — who occasionally offer free shots. Smithy’s is open from 5pm until 2am from Monday to Friday and from 10am on Saturday, when it serves breakfast.

And the food is pretty good. We tried the rack of ribs and the nachos, which are great with a pint of draught beer. This place is a firm favourite with reps, while pro riders (training in the high-altitude resort) kick their season off here too. If you’re skiing in a large group you can reserve tables.

Quiet by day, alive by night; Smithy’s in Les Deux Alpes

The Londoner World Cup ski racers can be found serving behind the bar at The Londoner

Kitzbühel

O

n Hahnenkamm weekend this place is heaving with racers. But don’t worry, during the rest of the season it’s still one of the best après parties in Austria. With themed nights it’s a popular ski instructor and rep hang out. The jovial bar staff make this place what it is, although World Cup racers are also invited to serve behind the bar — with hilarious results. Head here at around 5pm if you’re looking for a loud (and sweaty) night. It’s worth noting that the Londoner is now no longer under British ownership — they’ve left, and are running the Irish Bar, O’Flannigans, on the other side of Kitzbühel.

13

Chamonix’s Chambre Neuf is the place for live music

Chambre Neuf Chamonix

E

xperience après-ski Scandi style! This is possibly the best straight-from-the-slopes après-ski bar in Chamonix. Things get going from 4pm, with cover bands and Swedes dancing on the tables — what more could you ask for after a great day on the slopes? If you’re still standing at 9pm there’s a happy hour when a huge selection of cocktails are two for one. It’s small and gets packed — but who cares? Jostle in and get involved. It is open throughout the day for food too, so pop here for lunch before it transforms into a wild partying hive… and get dancing on the tables!

Hennu Stall

Small but packed, the Hennu Stall in glitzy Zermatt

Zermatt

A

lively hut where the party gets started as soon as the sun dips behind the mountains.

And the music is so loud you could be forgiven for momentarily wondering about the avalanche risk! With a live band playing most days, it’s the perfect place for a party. They have some lethal shot concoctions that will leave you with a killer hangover, which — combined with pumping beats and a great atmosphere — make it is easy to lose yourself here for the evening. No problem…

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FLY TO BERN – AND ARRIVE IN A WINTER HOLIDAY.

The airport near the family skiing paradise of Lenk-Simmental.

Book now: madeinbern.com/flyskywork

ADELBODEN LENK-SIMMENTAL KANDERSTEG

Flights made in Switzerland

ski club insurance

15% OFF for Ski Club Members

Choosing Ski Club Travel Insurance has always meant that you’re getting the specialist cover you need, with policies designed by experts for skiers and snowboarders.

This season we’ve launched new travel insurance that will continue to provide excellent service, but with even wider cover at lower prices. It’s the perfect accompaniment to your travel adventures, on and off the snow.

NEW:

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• All policies include Fogg Medi-card for extra peace of mind

• Improved cover for all holidays, not just skiing

• Winter sports equipment cover including goggles, helmets, boots & gloves as well as the usual cover for skis, poles and snowboards • Single trip cover up to the age of 85 (75 for multi-trip)

• Children FREE up to the age of 18 on all family policies (or under 24 if you have Ski Club Platinum membership)

• Up to 45 days’ winter sports cover each year with Ski Club Platinum Membership (with a bolt-on available to increase to 60 days)

• Now available to residents of The Republic of Ireland

• Cover for lack of snow if 75% of resort lifts are closed • Off piste skiing and boarding without a guide • Heli skiing, glacier skiing, backcountry skiing and ski touring all covered as standard Ski Club Platinum membership is also available this season, which includes European annual multi-trip insurance and Fogg Medi-card – all wrapped up in one price.

For a quote, visit skiclubinsurance.co.uk or call 0300 303 2610

16

Nice and knees-y does it Dodgy knees are one of the most common problems skiers face, but there are radical solutions, writes Colin Nicholson

W

hen I saw the instructor running alongside Michael to steady him I was reassured.

Only to then watch him launch my brother-in-law down the wide-open pistes of the Three Valleys.

And I had every reason to feel anxious. Two years before, our previous skiing trip had proved somewhat of a disaster.

We faced a problem I had never contemplated, despite it being probably the most common health complaint for skiers. When I took Michael, then aged 25, skiing for the first time, he didn’t moan about the cold, loved the views but… found it murder on his knees. At 6ft, a

late growth spurt had left him with dodgy joints that, when skiing, were unhappy with the curious forces to which he was subjecting them.

And he isn’t alone. Knees and skis often have a difficult relationship.

According to Mike Langran, formerly doctor to the ski patrol at CairnGorm mountain and a ski injuries expert, by far the greatest problem for skiers is their knees.

This is despite the fact that skiing is far less dangerous than people think: there are just over two injuries per thousand skier days reported to the ski patrol. Or, statistically, if you ski six days a year, you will only hurt yourself after 80 years.

Beginners, however, are more accident prone, making lessons vital.

And it is also beginners who tend to experience the greatest pain in their knees, as snowploughing puts far greater twisting forces on the knees than a parallel turn.

Two years ago, Michael bandaged up his knees more tightly than a Chinese matron after day one, only to suffer equally on the second day. I wondered whether that would be our last winter holiday together.

There are, in fact, a number of products on the market that promise help. DonJoy offers bespoke knee braces, but these cost about £500.

That might be worth it for an

17

On facing page, a skier finds powder in Courchevel’s pine trees. Clockwise on this page, skiers tackle one of the resort’s immaculately groomed pistes; Michael wobbles as he learns to snowboard; and below, what he hopes to achieve after a few more lessons

experienced skier, desperate not to give up, but it seemed a lot to fork out on the off-chance it might work.

A less expensive option, at £325, is the Ski Mojo. It’s designed to take the muscular effort out of all the ‘bending ze knees’ that instructors tell you to do, but some users also find it helps their knee joints too.

However, Michael’s preferred solution took us on a new tack. Since the problem was all that twisting, why not try snowboarding, where his legs would be locked in position?

Being a life-long skier, I was sceptical, especially given boarders seem to spend half their time kneeling while catching their breath.

But it was at least a plan. So we booked a trip to Courchevel, in France, to see if it was the solution.

It seemed sensible not to aim for a whole week, so we made our plans with Flexiski, which organises short ski breaks, and checked in to a hotel in Courchevel 1850, where nestled among far more expensive four- and five-star rivals, you can still find affordable options.

Over a drink the staff recommended the English-run New Generation ski school for lessons.

A friendly instructor whisked

Michael off to the nursery slopes the next morning, leaving me to cross my fingers and start skiing.

Just metres from the door were uncrowded pistes which flatter your turns as you carve down the wideopen runs, before pine forests funnel you back to the village.

Méribel is just half an hour away and I even managed to reach Val Thorens on the far side of this, the world’s biggest ski area, and still made it home in time for tea.

And Michael? Well… he was chuffed. As we settled down for dinner, he explained that he had

Michael bandaged his knees up tighter than a Chinese matron

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18

Courchevel has the easiest pistes of the Three Valleys

found it a far less daunting experience than skiing, particularly as he didn’t have to worry about his skis crossing all the time. And tomorrow they were going to hit the proper slopes.

This I had to see.

Although Courchevel has the easiest slopes in the Three Vallleys, its blue and red runs immaculately manicured, my experience of snowboarding was that this could only help so far. The one

time I snowboarded, I spent most of the time flat on my face.

As we took the gondola up the next morning, I was curious to find out why the other two would-be snowboarders in Michael’s class had picked boarding.

“Because of my knees,” one girl instantly replied, revealing that she too had tightly bandaged joints. So perhaps I was wrong to be sceptical.

When I snowboarded I spent most of the time flat on my face

On the slopes, Michael at first appeared to have got the hang of it, but then — as the others gained confidence — he started to become more tentative.

“Oh dear,” I thought, “was this such a good idea?”

It was then that the instructor unbuckled himself and ran alongside Michael until he got his balance and started gliding off down the slope.

When I finally caught up with him, I wasn’t sure whether he would be delighted with the experience or scared witless.

“That,” he said, “was great — when are we next going snowboarding?”

Colin’s trip was arranged by Flexiski (flexiski.com; 020 8939 0864), which offers four nights half board at the Hotel New Solarium in Courchevel 1850 from £1,125 per person based on two sharing including flights and car hire. New Generation (skinewgen.com) offers five-day group lessons from €199 per person.

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The days might be getting longer and the temperatures starting to creep up – but the season’s not over yet! April is a fantastic time to go skiing – longer days, plenty of sunshine and quieter slopes mean that the conditions are some of the best you’ll encounter all season. And with Ski Club Freshtracks offering holidays right through to the end of April, there’s still time to have one last blast on the slopes before your thoughts turn to summer.

an ds with w o r c e h g Escape t o tourin t n io t c introdu

Flaine Exploration 9 – 16 April | Flaine, France £849 for 7 nights (excluding flights) Learn the techniques of ski touring and get away from the crowds under expert guidance. Flaine offers some unbelievably good off piste skiing and after a warm up day, you’ll be ready to get away from it all, discovering the hidden gems of the area. Skinning can be tiring but you will be well energized by hearty breakfasts and replenished with scrumptious afternoon teas and a delicious dinner in Chalet Freshtracks - and don’t forget the sauna for your aching limbs!

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in st

yle

End of Season Snowdown 17 -24 April | Val d’Isère, France £899 for 7 nights (including flights) Spend six full days with off piste instructors covering as much of the 10,000 hectares of off piste as you can with this excellent opportunity for late season skiing! The instructors on this trip are all Ski Club veterans, based in Espace Killy with expert knowledge of the local terrain and experience in taking Ski Club groups to the best snow around. With them you’ll have the opportunity to develop your off piste skiing whilst exploring the fantastic variety of snow and terrain across the ski area.

ce Killy ven in Espa ea h te is p f Of

ski club holidays

Ski i n mig the sha hty dow Mat terh of the orn

End of Season Off Piste 28 April – 2 May | Zermatt, Switzerland £750 for 4 nights (excluding flights) There is no better place to round off your season in the Alps than Zermatt. We provide a Swiss rail ticket that gets you from any Swiss airport to the resort and back again in very convenient fashion.

Our guide, Klaus Tscherrig will show you the best parts of Zermatt’s off piste terrain; follow him to the well-known gullies or the hidden powder fields and get the most out of your weekend away.

Over the 3 days Klaus will find you the best spring snow, whether by lifts or short tours — and you may even have the option of a heli lift!

in ounta m r u o Get y r umme s d i m

fix in

Bank Holiday Blast 28 April – 2 May | Tignes, France £699 for 4 nights (including flights) Tignes couldn’t be a better place to have a late season weekend trip. Not only does the resort boast a glacier and consistently excellent snow but the town itself needs no introduction. Tignes always has something to offer, whether it’s a quiet night at a local café or a big night out on the town. This trip is open to all levels from early intermediate right up to expert. Let your instructor show you around the best runs and slopes that the Espace Killy has to offer, making the most of the spring conditions in the mornings and the long sunny afternoons for après!

And looking further ahead…

Summer Ski Instruction 2 – 9 July, Les Deux Alpes | France £850 for 7 nights (excluding flights) Even if your thoughts are ready to turn to summer, that doesn’t mean you have to stop thinking about skiing. Les Deux Alpes is one of the few resorts that can offer snow-sure skiing throughout the summer. You’ll spend your mornings working on your technique and trying some race training with expert coaches. Then in the afternoons you’ll have a wide choice of activities from via ferrata to rafting or hiking… or just simply relaxing!

For details of the full Freshtracks programme, visit skiclub.co.uk/freshtracks or call 020 8410 2022

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Banking on Bansko Bulgaria’s biggest ski resort is fighting to change its reputation as the underdog of European skiing, says Lynn Houghton

U

ntil recently ski resorts in Bulgaria were suffering something of an identity crisis. Yes, the skiing was cheap.

Super cheap, in fact, but that came at a price. The infrastructure was poor, the food basis and getting to the slopes in Bansko a nightmare.

Of the three major resorts in the country known to British skiers Bansko is the largest and claims to be capable of competing with its more sophisticated European neighbours.

But is this really the case?

In its early days, the ‘resort’, with just one T-bar, was nothing more than a playground for locals with time on their hands. The big resort was Borovets, and that was where large numbers of Westeners headed, buying their visas to get behind the Iron Curtain.

That all changed in the early noughties when, thanks to the installation of a gondola and a handful of chairlifts, Bansko was catapulted into the 21st century.

Word spread, and tourists —

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Right, Bansko is a traditional town in parts

Below, skiers emerge from the gondola chaos, but once on the slopes queues are rare

resort, spoiled only by the prefab attracted by favourable exchange hotels and apartment blocks. The rates and rock bottom prices — came original old town sits a little lower in their hordes. And so too did than the purpose-built resort, about the construction companies, building five minutes’ walk from the gondola, apartments as fast as they could. and retains the old charm of a Bansko was booming. traditional working town. Horse and But there was a flaw. The visitor carts can still be seen, numbers far outweighed while 4x4s carry tourists the capacity of the Bansko is and younger locals gondola (the main link picturesque, around the town. to the ski area), and For my trip, I opted soon pictures appeared spoiled only by to stay at the Lucky of monumental snaking prefab hotels Bansko ApartHotel lift queues. on the outskirts of the So it was with some old town. Bansko has its fair share apprehension that I packed my of strangely named accommodation ski boots and headed to the resort earlier this season. Would things have and — although the name makes it sound like a casino — it’s actually an improved? excellent base. Well-appointed selfLying in the foothills of the Pirin catering rooms have mountains, Bansko is a picturesque a spacious living area and kitchenette, while in the basement there’s a spa and pool.

Sadly, the gondola queues are still prevalent. Many skiers opt to start queuing long before the lift opens, while others queue for a taxi to the base of the ski area. Another option is to join the ski school (which gives priority) or buy a special VIP card.

Bansko now boasts some 14 lifts, the newest of which — a high-speed six-seater chairlift — opened this season, with another quad chairlift planned for construction this summer And away from the gondola, there’s not a queue in sight.

The ski area is split into two distinct sectors, Chalin Valog and Shiligarnika, the latter being the biggest, with the lion’s share of the slopes. In all there are some 70km Ski+board

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of — mainly intermediate — marked and monasteries quite happily. One pistes. There are also some more reason Bulgaria is so different from challenging options, most notably the rest of Europe is that it kept its the Tomba black, which descends to communist rulers and government Bunderishka. An easy blue descends well after the fall of the Soviet Union, back to the town. For novice skiers, and as a result still has a distinctly there’s a large beginners’ area, Soviet feel about it. overlooked by After skiing, head a cafeteria-type for the old town.

Tacky glitz lives restaurant serving It’s here you get hearty food, a feel for how the alongside ancient hot drinks and locals live. There villages beer. And the ski are dozens of bars school has a good rammed with visitors reputation. and town folk alike. In fact, a recent What stuck with me is how different survey found that the nearby resort a ski trip to Bulgaria is compared of Borovets has more bars per square to resorts such as Val d’Isère, Cortina kilometre than any other European or Aspen. These resorts are all about ski resort. In Bansko I enjoyed a fun luxury — with top-flight hotels, après-ski party at the retro Bash Bar, sophisticated après-ski and wonderful which thuds to the tune of 1980s hits restaurants — whereas this former and serves cheap beer. communist country offers a more Bulgaria’s cuisine features grilled rustic experience, worlds apart from meats and yoghurt heavily, with what I know. a few vegetables thrown in for In a uniquely Bulgarian mix, tacky good measure. Restaurants here glitz and glamour lives alongside are called mehana and post-dinner ancient villages, stalwart traditions entertainment can range from

Gipsy music and dancing to acapella performances. I visited the 100-yearold Dedo Penne (Grandpa’s Place), which has a roaring fire, and specialises in homemade Kavarma — a typical Bulgarian stew.

Skiing here cannot and should not be compared to the Alps, but for those starting out on skis, or after a cheap week away it cannot be beaten.

Yes the gondola queue may be long — and plans for a second bubble are on hold — and the resort is still far from perfect, but in a country with a fascinating history and friendly people, there’s more to Bansko than meets the eye — you just have to rise early to beat the queue.

Lynn’s trip was arranged by Balkan Holidays (balkanholidays.co.uk), which offers a week’s B&B at the three-star Mura Hotel from £340 per person based on two sharing, including flights and transfers.

A studio apartment at the Lucky Bansko Hotel (luckybansko.com) is from €74 per night. A six-day lift pass costs £89.

M O U N T A I N H E A V E N

Heavenly Skiing At Down To Earth Prices

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OFF PISTE SKIING AND FREERIDE COURSES AT OUR BASES IN:

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• Alpine ski touring • Ski touring techniques • Adventure ski 2016–17 • Early Season Ski • Long weekends www.jagged-globe.co.uk ski@jagged-globe.co.uk +44 114 276 3322 or 0333 323 9699

Photo: Jonathan Griffith

ski club benefits

Six ways to get the most from your Ski Club membership this summer The end of the season might be approaching (although there’s still plenty of skiing to be had before the lifts stop turning) but that doesn’t mean it’s time to put your membership card into mothballs for the summer. Your Ski Club membership works for you all year round – and here are a few tips to get the most from it over the summer months.

1 Get covered for your summer trips Whether you’re a Platinum member, an annual policy holder, or prefer to use your 15% member discount to buy single trip policies, Ski Club Travel Insurance provides you with wide-ranging cover for your summer adventures.

From lying on the beach to hiking in the mountains, your trip doesn’t have to include snow to be a perfect fit with Ski Club Insurance.

2 Use your discounts all summer long Booking a summer holiday? Fancy some camping gear or outdoor kit for the summer? Your Ski Club discounts include tour operators such as Neilson and Mark Warner, and retailers such as Cotswold Outdoor, Ellis Brigham, Snow+Rock and Mountain Warehouse so you can carry on saving money and making your membership pay for itself all year round.

3 Book your Freshtracks holiday nice and early The 2016-17 Freshtracks brochure will be out in July, and many of the holidays will be on sale even earlier than that.

Some of the most popular trips sell out extremely quickly so it’s worth securing your place whilst the summer sun’s still shining – and then you have plenty of time to get excited whilst anticipating your trip.

4 Let us help you plan your holiday Planning and preparation makes for the best holidays – and we’re on hand all year round to give advice and answer your questions. Whether you’re trying to find the best resort for your needs, buy some new kit or work out the smoothest transport options, our team of experts can help you throughout the summer.

5 Get your snow fix at an indoor slope As a Ski Club member you can save money at all of the UK’s indoor slopes – so whether you’re after some lessons to work on your technique or just can’t face a summer without sliding on some snow, your membership card will help you have some fun whilst saving some cash.

6 Ski with the Club in Les Deux Alpes And talking of needing a snow fix during the summer, if the call of the mountains is just too strong to resist, you can ski with Freshtracks in Les Deux Alpes this July. This 7-night trip from 2 to 9 July will take you to one of Europe’s most snow-sure glacier resorts, where you’ll get the chance to work on your technique under the guidance of expert coaches. You’ll also have access to activities such as rafting and hiking, as well as good old relaxing!

Visit

Photo: Switzerland Tourism

skiclub.co.uk for details of all your member benefits.

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gear

Hop in the tech bubble Technology is not only revolutionising the way we see and map the mountains, but also making skiing safer, writes Alf Alderson Technology is moving into the mountains faster than ever these days, and for new gadgets and gismos the current trend is focused primarily on safety. From devices such as the POC Spine VPD Airbag Vest, which will protect you in a fall, to GPS apps Alf Alderson is an award-winning adventure travel writer who divides his time between the Alps and Pembrokeshire. He is co-author of the Rough Guide to the Rocky Mountains and other ski guides. He is an experienced gear tester for the ski press

such as Fatmap, which are designed to profile the best on and off-piste lines, there has never been so much technology for recreational skiers.

There’s a definite move towards making freeriding both safer and more accessible, while new technology means gear that was once reserved for ski professionals is increasingly accessible, and affordable, for everyday skiers.

But while technology has its place in the mountains, there’s a fine line between becoming absorbed in the latest ski app at the expense of enjoying the mountain environment.

However, if you make the most of the various accessories we’ve reviewed here they’ll enhance your

riding experience, and in some cases make it considerably safer — just don’t forget to marvel at the views when you’re skiing down.

Ski Club members can save money at hundreds of UK retailers. For full details see skiclub.co.uk/discounts.

FREE

£49.99

£TBA

FATMAP SKI APP

PIEPS 30° PLUS

POC Spine VPD 2.0 Airbag Vest

Fatmap is an iOS and Android app that allows you to download 3D ski maps to your mobile phone. It uses satellite imagery to create clever digital elevation models of the mountains, which are then layered with terrain and resort information.

This means the app is equally useful whether you’re skiing in resort or the backcountry. In resort it shows you exactly where you are on any piste, while off-piste it displays info on the terrain’s gradient, aspect and altitude.

It also has a location sharing facility allowing you to stay connected with your group, and track your new lines.

It covers nine ski areas in France, five in Switzerland, two in Italy and one in Austria, as well as several in the US.

The 30° Plus is an electronic inclinometer that attaches to your ski pole, allowing you to quickly check a slope’s angle. This is very useful if you’re in the backcountry and want to avoid avalanche-prone terrain, which is steeper than 25 degrees.

The 30° Plus is much easier to use than a traditional clinometer, meaning it’s more likely you’ll actually use it. By lying your pole flat on the slope, the inclinometer gives a precise measurement of its angle.

The LCD screen, which also displays air temperature, is clear, while with a weight of just 28g you won’t notice it on your ski pole. The only downside is the Lithium-ion battery, which powers the device for just five hours.

This new safety device from POC doesn’t hit the shelves until the autumn, but it’s already in use by racers. A first of its kind for skiers, this airbag vest will detect a crash and inflate in less than 100 milliseconds, helping protect your neck, chest, spine, abdomen and hips from high-speed impacts. It does this by analysing your movements a thousand times each second to detect loss of balance. If it does, the airbag inflates before you hit the ground. The vest, which can be worn under a ski suit, is already used by a number of international ski racers, and was cited as helping save Olympic champion Matthias Mayer’s back in a World Cup Downhill crash in Val Gardena.

Great app for piste and off-piste skiers Many resorts not yet covered

Far easier to use than a clinometer Relatively short battery life

New technology that could save your life Likely to be very expensive

GEAR

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£110

£380

£30

OUTDOOR TECH TURTLE SHELL 2.0 SPEAKER

GARMIN FENIX 3 GPS SPORTS WATCH

AQUAPAC SUBMERSIBLE ARMBAND CASE

I grabbed this speaker last winter and have been using it with my phone, laptop and iPad ever since. With a volume of up to 96db (loud) and an effective bass, the speaker produces great sound quality. What’s more, it’s water and dust resistant so you’re fine taking it outdoors and it fits in the palm of your hand. It will connect to any Bluetooth-enabled device with easy one-touch pairing. The rechargeable battery has 16 hours of playtime, and 700 hours of standby time, with a wireless range of 10m.

There’s a built-in microphone for phone calls and external controls for adjusting the volume and changing tracks. The speaker comes in a range of colours, and weighs just 295 grams.

Big sound, small size 10m range only works without obstruction

Unlike many sports watches the Garmin Fenix 3 is a classic looking timepiece — with a durable strap — that allows you to customise the display and looks stylish. It also has a plethora of features, including a ski specific mode offering speed, distance, vertical drop and an automatic run counter. The GPS, compass and altimeter are also useful for ski tourers and backcountry aficionados. The Fenix 3 will record a GPS track, effectively creating a ‘bread crumb trail’, which can be used to navigate back to your starting point should you get lost. For other sports the Fenix 3 has features to support running, cycling, swimming (it’s waterproof) and triathlon.

Ski specific features are useful Expensive for a watch

Although it’s designed primarily for water sports rather than snowsports, this waterproof case also offers an efficient way of protecting your phone or camera from snow, sleet and rain.

The ‘Aquaclip’ seal opens and closes with a twist of two levers, while the armband can be adjusted for a snug fit. The case also has a lanyard. The transparent cover is thin enough for you to use your touchscreen, and it’s also possible to shoot video footage through the case provided you have a front-facing camera (there’s no lens window on the back of the case).

If you want to keep the snow off your phone, but still use it easily, this is a great option — and come summer you can use it for water activities.

Cheap and easy to use…

But it won’t work with a rear facing lens

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28

SNOW WEAR

Snow wear

End of season sale!

The season may be drawing to a close, but for backcountry skiers the fun is just beginning Photography: Melody Sky

It’s springtime in the Alps, and in just a few weeks’ time the lifts will stop turning, the bars will pull down the shutters and the seasonnaires relocate to sunnier climes.

But beyond the piste markers, the fun is only just beginning. It’ll be a long while before the peaks begin to turn green, and spring hails the start of backcountry season.

The mountain refuges open their doors and alpinists — armed with skins, and overnight bags — make tracks to tick off new itineraries.

In this issue we take a last look at this season’s coolest backcountry gear. And the good news? With summer approaching, if you shop around for your favourite outfit, you may be able to find it on sale at a snip of the recommended retail price.

Ben Clatworthy

Rachel Rosser, our fashion assistant, wears O’Neill Maad jacket (£250), Picture Judy beanie (£32) and O’Neill Drifter-RX sunglasses (£76)

Rachel tries her hand at longboarding with two local children. She wears Scott Ultimate DRX jacket (£285) and pants (£180) and O’Neill Runa 103P sunglasses (£45)

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After a long day on the hill, Tony walks down the high street in the evening sun. He wears Scott Explorair jacket (£215) and Ultimate Dryo pants (£290) and O’Neill Anso 113P sunglasses (£50)

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SNOW WEAR

Tony (left) wears O’Neill Intel jacket (£190) and Exalt pants (£120). Will (right) wears Quiksilver Selector jacket (£210), CLWR Denim pants (£125)

Will enjoys a cold beer at the Mooserwirt après-ski bar. He wears Burton Dune jacket (£390), Oakley Flightdeck XM goggles (£145) and a Picture beanie (£30)

Our team take a break at St Anton’s highest peak, the Valluga. Left to right, Tony wears The North Face Free Thinker jacket (£300) and bib (£180). Rachel wears Picture Time jacket (£220) and pants (£190). Ashley wears The North Face Fuseform Brigandine jacket (£420) and pants (£325). Will wears Picture Welcome jacket (£339) and pants (£229). And Rachel, our fashion assistant, wears Armada Gypsum jacket (£185) and Roxy Rushmore pants (£210)

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BRITISH Retailers Ellis Brigham: ellis-brigham.com Snow+Rock: snowandrock.com Surfdome: surfdome.com TSA: snowboard-asylum.com All four retailers above offer Ski Club members ten per cent or more off full-priced products CONTACTS O’Neill oneill.com/gb Picture ellis-brigham.com Nike Snowboard-asylum.com Armada freezeproshop.com Roxy roxy-uk.co.uk Planks planksclothing.com The North Face thenorthface.com Von Zipper absolute-snow.com Scott ellis-brigham.com Burton burton.com Oakley oakley.com Quiksilver quiksilver.co.uk CLWR ellis-brigham.com

Fashion editor Maisha Frost Fashion assistant Rachel Rosser Production manager Ben Clatworthy Photography Melody Sky Hair and make-up Jemma Barwick Models Ashley Crook Rachel Tugwell Will Siggers Tony Walker

Considered one of the world’s top ski resorts, St Anton am Arlberg is part of the expansive Ski Arlberg region, with a modern network of 97 lifts, offering 350km of groomed pistes. With on and off-piste challenges, awe-inspiring scenery and unrivalled après-ski, there are many reasons to visit.

Daily flights are available from London Gatwick and twice weekly from Bristol and Liverpool to Innsbruck with easyJet. Alternative airports include Zurich, Munich or Friedrichshafen. St Anton is also easily accessible by train. For further information on St Anton am Arlberg visit stantonamarlberg.com, while to find out about the Austrian Tirol region see visittirol.co.uk Ski+board

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15% DISCOUNT

*

FOR SKI CLUB GB MEMBERS

OUR NEW SEASON RANGE IS AVAILABLE NOW IN STORE AND ONLINE STORES NATIONWIDE | COTSWOLDOUTDOOR.COM *Selected

lines only. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer or discount. Only on production of your Ski Club GB membership card in store or use of discount code online. Offer expires 31.12.16.