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SIXspetlova 5 martina


Editor-in-Chief Alina Rätsep Art Director Fiona Garden Associate Editor Fashion Editor Features Editor Beauty Editor

Rachael Oku Victoria Sekrier Claire Belle Lewis Georgie Wolfinden @ Glowgetter.co.uk

Web Editor Victoria Sayce Beauty Intern Sarah Critchley Contributing Photographers Fiona Garden Martin Zahringer Billie Scheepers Contributing Photographer’s Assistant Malcolm Campbell Liam Bundy

Contributing Stylists Tara Sugar Victoria Sekrier Contributing Assistant Stylist Kaelin Lee Contributing Hair & Make Up Artist James Molloy OscarAlexander Lundberg Natalie Piacun Sharne Harrington Aindrea Emelife Michael Johns Helena Lyons Contributing Writers Hitomi Ito Veronica Crespi Ilaria Pasquinelli Cover image Photographer: Fiona Garden Emma Grady SENSE. Model: Lisa Akesson at Union Ali Schofield Stylist: Victoria Sekrier Musimbi King Hair: Sharne Harrington Jessica Latapie Make Up: Natalie Piacun. Viola Levy Diana Bocco Lisa is wearing dress by Peter made Michele Llanos Jensen, necklace by DanniJo Kyra de Vreeze SIX Magazine is published by SIX MAGAZINE LIMITED. © Copyright 2011 SIX Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the written permission of the Publisher.

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editor’s

Letter

the ARTISAN in you

In our second issue we look into the world of ancient artisanal craft, visiting the most renowned and far away lands, including Peru, Himalayas, Middle East and Africa. The word itself, ARTISAN, is full of mystery. It is filled with a wondrous feeling of lost skills, unique techniques, lost TREASURES, and perhaps of something that only the privileged get to own. It takes us back to when everything, down to household textiles, was made by hand - to the times when making things carried an element of ritual. Ayesha Mustafa, one of our contributors and founder of FashionComPassion, introduces us to the world of Middle Eastern artisan communities. Ayesha’s company sells the most incredible creations by Afghan and Pakistani artisans, focusing on empowering women in Middle Eastern countries. Read more about FashionComPassion on page 152. Spirituality follows hand in hand with the artisan traditions. Putting our twist on it, our main fashion story sees a warrior queen of the Aztecs come to life in the most fabulous handcrafted pieces (page 86). Artisan craft is often misconstrued and believed to culminate at a street market in a form of cheap plastic beads. However, not many are aware that the most prestigious fashion houses such as PRADA are extensively using unique artisanal skills to add details to their pieces or even create whole lines (see our feature on PRADA ‘Made in...” on page 68). Enjoy the journey, and see you at the other end! Alina Rätsep // EDITOR-IN-CHIEF follow @SIXmagazine SIX 7


b u y a pa i r , g i v e a pa i r we founded warby parker to be a force for good in the world by considering each of our stakeholders in every decision we make. Through our buy a pair, give a pair program, we hope to serve the one billion people on earth who do not have access to glasses.

Let’s work to ensure that everyone has the glasses they need to see clearly and live fully.

wa r by pa r k e r .c o m


CONTENTS ON THE RADAR White Heights - head to toe in white P. 30 KAIGHT - NYC slow fashion P. 20 GreenShowroom - Ethical in Berlin P. 18 Beulah - Feel the effect - P.22 ART Love Is What - Tracey Emin P. 26 ASK Ethical leader - Jane Shepherdson P.34 Mighty-Spirited Warrior - Sara Arai P. 36 S&E GUIDE to ARTISAN FASHION S&E in Italy the aesthetics & ethics of Italian fashion P. 40 Top SIX S&E* Italian designers P. 42 S&E* Himalayas P. 46 S&E* Middle East P. 52 S&E* Andes P. 56 Kenya Wild Beauty P. 62 EXPLORE Sleep Inside the Art Artist Residence - ethical boutique hotel P.140

22

26

SIX Loves Tara St. James - P.80

80


86

122 74

FASHION Fashion Editor’s Notes: Festival style by Victoria Sekrier P.60 Investment Plan - Pieces worth believing in. P.112 Tribes - Savage beauty of the tribal queen P.86 Hothouse Flower - Flirty summer fashion P.98 Light Side//Dark Side – Adorned in monochrome P.108 IN THE SPOTLIGHT John Hardy Jewellery design with eco-growth in mind. P. 82 Olga Olsson - swimwear inspired by ‘70’s Rio P.74 Adolfo Dominguez - Green Me! P. 84 BEAUTY Beauty Editor’s Notes: Bring back the Glow by Georgie Wolfinden P.120 Fresh Faced Get the naturally luminous look this summer P.122 The Goodness of Bees What’s the buzz about Bee-related beauty? P.128 Clean Up Your Make-up Give your makeup bag an eco-overhaul P.130 Some like it hot Maintain beautiful hair in the hot summer sun P.132 Vanity Case P.136 SIX hot hair tips from Gina Conway for Aveda P.138 HEALTH Urban Detox An urban oasis to cleanse both body and mind P.144 Fluid Body Enhance self-body awareness. P.150


SIX contributors

Ayesha Mustafa

Ilaria Pasquinelli

Michele Llanos

Prior to launching Fashion ComPassion, Ayesha worked as a marketing professional at Pepsi Co UK, where she looked after retail & online retail accounts like Waitrose and Ocado, and marketed the Pepsi Co brand portfolio to the key retailers. Before that, Ayesha has worked in PR and Communications and had a short stint of working at a New York law firm. Ayesha has a BA in Politics & Economics from Mount Holyoke College, Massachusetts U.S.A and Masters in Media & Communications from City University, London. Ayesha grew up in Karachi, Lahore, Cairo, New York & Dubai and currently lives in London. Read Ayesha’s piece on the Middle Eastern artisans on page 50.

Ilaria is an international marketing expert for the fashion industry. She has advised both private and public companies, including not for profit organizations, such as International Trade Centre (UN agency). Ilaria is also an expert of ethical fashion assisting fashion businesses to market and communicate sustainability. She sits on the board of the Ethical Fashion Consultancy, and is also Co-founder and Marketing Director of SPINNA - The Women’s International Textile Alliance, a foundation which focuses on fostering women empowerment in the textiles and fashion. Ilaria talks Ethics versus Aesthetics in her S&E Italy: Introduction feature on page 38.

Originally from Los Angeles, Michele currently resides in NYC, where she uses her position as Fashion Director for CocoEco Magazine as a showcase for international sustainable design and responsible fashion. Her past endeavors in LA include showroom owner, stylist, costumer and jewelry designer. Today, she uses these resources and relationships to promote committed artists and designers that produce product with uncompromised ethics. Michele reviews the pieces that are worth breaking your piggy bank for in the Investment Plan on page 112.

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Photo by Tom Olesnevich

Gina Whitehead

Emma Grady

Veronica Crespi

An American and Spanish, Gina received a truly international upbringing growing up in France, London and Barcelona. Gina is currently a freelance writer for Vanity Fair, Glamour UK, Vogue France, Dare 2 Magazine, Under current magazine and SIX. She is one hyperactive multi-tasking tornado. Her hobby is coming up with ideas to encourage people to sit and think (that’s a luxury nowadays isn’t it?). Gina loves to love. And loves to travel. The quote that possibly descries her most closely is: “Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile”. Read Gina’s piece on the New York ethical clothing store Kaight in our OnThe Radar section, page 18.

Emma is a fashion expert, award-winning writer and stylist based in New York City. She is the founder and editor of PastFashionFuture.com, a style site that explores the relationship of modern fashion and style with its tradition and heritage. Grady is the resident fashion expert at Discovery’s TreeHugger. com, the voice behind “Styled by Emma,” a weekly fashion Q&A column published by Ecouterre. com, and the fashion and beauty correspondent at Hearst ’s TheDailyGreen.com. Blessed with good taste and an uncanny abilit y to know what works when it comes to style,her expertise has appeared across numerous web and print publications, including Marie Claire (South Africa), MSN, AOL, Yahoo, The Huffington Post, Trend Hunter, Current TV and Women’s Wear Daily (WWD). Read Emma’s piece on Peruvian artisans on page 54.

Veronica is a Style and Fashion Consultant, who has brought her quintessentially Italian flair to London. She has made Slow Fashion the focus of her work, advising clients on how to link sustainability to style. She is now developing the UpWardrobe project, to promote textile-upcycling designers. After founding Rewardrobe, Veronica has become an established name within the ethical fashion community in London, with a collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Forum, a nomination in the ‘Best Green Contribution to London’ at the London Lifestyle Awards, and a prize as one of the Future100 young entrepreneurs of 2010. Veronica is also a freelance fashion writer and a public speaker on the subject of sustainability and Slow Fashion. Veronica introduces top SIX S&E Italian designers on page 40.

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www.culietta.com

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on the radar

Natalie Dissel Fusing

stunning designs, unique materials and beautiful individuality, Natalie Dissel has created an inspired range of unique jewellery, which features true works of art. Combining semi-precious stones collected during her travels through Asia, Europe, Africa and the Far East with 22 carat gold and sterling silver, Natalie’s collection is a literal representation of the natural environment. Adding a dash of eccentricity to her work by incorporating leather, horns and shells, Dissel combines them beautifully with citrine, amethyst

and sapphire, and numerous precious metals to create original items – all lovingly made by hand. It’s this use of eclectic materials, along with her aversion to methods of mass production, which make Dissel’s eponymous brand so special. The leathers used are both reappropriated and fully-certified, whilst the designer is committed to sourcing the finest materials from developing countries, using local artisans wherever possible – always offering a fair price for their skills and labour. Dissel’s underlying aim is to make her customer aware of SIX 16

the importance of not only travel and exploration, but also the individuality of each piece created. Each item in her collection is accompanied by a travelogue depicting the origins of every stone and material used. Prices start from £130 for rings, £220 for bracelets and £320 for necklaces.

www.nataliedissel.com


Nancy Gonzalez Gorgeous

colours, stylish designs and expert craftsmanship of Nancy Gonzalez handmade bags make the stunning and culturally inspired brand really stand out from the crowd. Gonzalez’ SS11 collection runs the gamut from stunning neutrals to bold brights and glamorous metallics. Nancy Gonzalez bags are based on a foundation of excellent craftsmanship and beautiful structures. With no gimmicks in sight, Gonzalez has an invariable consistency in her work, which is very reassuring in a world where fast fashion is the norm. Stocked by some of the

world’s leading retail giants such as Bergdorf Goodman in New York and  Harrods in London, Gonzalez launched her first ever travel collection exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman in December 2010, where the brand continues to sell out. Having launched her eponymous accessories line in 1998 Gonzalez quickly built a reputation for her playful use of bold block colour.  Taking inspiration from the rich and natural beauty of her native Columbia, each bag is handcrafted by local artisans, and finished with beautiful and meticulous attention to detail. SIX 17

Gonzalez is committed to enhancing her local community, especially to the wellbeing of her workers and their families. She is driving a positive social change in her native Columbia, employing almost entirely women and providing day care for their children. Gonzalez empowers her employees, encouraging her team to use their skills and expert knowledge to set them apart from other artisans.

www.nancygonzalez.com


on the radar

GREENshowroom Co-founders and eco-designers Magdalena

Schaffrin and Jana Keller both felt out of place at fashion fairs, as their designs were considered too high end for the eco fairs and their ideology was lost at regular fashion fairs. In search of somewhere to showcase their burgeoning brands, Schaffrin and Keller joined forces to create the new and exciting concept: GREENshowroom. Born as a platform to redefine what consumers and opinion-makers perceive as luxury, the store is an exciting, upbeat and contemporary space, presenting the new luxury – high quality products, made with a conscience. GREENshowroom offers three days of highquality design and sustainable, environmentallyconscious luxury. Clothing, accessories and

cosmetics are presented to fashion professionals in the elegant ambience of luxurious hotels across Europe four times a year. Participating designers must abide by certain criteria: “The brand must, for the most part, be environmentally sustainable,” comments Schaffrin, “However, our labels have various ways of approaching this requirement – some focus on using organic materials, some on recycling or on fair-trade.” For both founders however, design aesthetic is always of utmost importance. Exhibitors have included ChristinaKramer, Fortschritt Berlin, STAT and Sadhu. www.green-showroom.net

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Six 11 SIX 19

STAT www.statfashion.com


on the radar

Kaight

KAIGHT is a well-established

vegetables straight from the farm!” The store interior was custommade for Kate - “I had the shelving custom-made from steel by a local welder. A friend who is a local carpenter made my desk (my personal favorite), from steel and the leftover bamboo flooring.” The idea that their money isn’t just going to big corporations, but to small, independent designers who are really trying to do something. appeals to Kate’s customer. “They appreciate that many of our products are one-of-a-kind. I try to source pieces that are special, well made and timeless.” Kate says, “I think New Yorkers tend to be a thoughtful, intellectual SIX 20

bunch - the Kaight philosophy is something that resonates with them.” In working with her designers, she says, “we work together to keep things fresh and interesting. Competing with larger companies and fast retailers is an exciting challenge for independent [designers]. “The Erin Templeton bags were made by a small Canadian designer - she did a run of the bags exclusively for Kaight out of recycled leather to fit with our philosophy. We work with many designers in that way.” On her day-to-day, Kate has this to say, “I do everything myself, which I think is probably the only way that I have been able to stay in business!” www.kaightshop.com

Photographer Gene Bradley

boutique located in New York City’s trendy Lower East Side carrying a great selection of S&E designers and unique pieces. Kaight opened on 18 August 2006. Founder Kate McGregor grew up in Ohio and lived in Colorado for six years before moving to NYC in 2000. “I’m interested in living a meaningful life and doing something positive. I wanted to invest my money in quality products and in companies that I believe in.” Kate’s childhood dream was to move to NYC and open a boutique. “My lifestyle has always been green: I was raised to support local businesses – we would buy

by Gina Whitehead


RoyalBLUSH

Photographer Juliette Chrétien

I nspired

by the Swiss Alps, RoyalBLUSH is a leather accessory brand with a noticeable difference. Each design perfectly reflects the beauty and excitement of The Alps; with multifunctional bags proving both practical and stylish, complimented perfectly by chic jewellery inspired by climbing gear. Designer Jana Keller only uses the finest Italian calf and salmon skin - a bi-product of the food industry from certified bio salmon farms in Ireland. She also utilises a vegetable tanning method, an artisan tradition used for the past 200 years, subjecting the

leather to the natural elements, and making each RoyalBLUSH accessory entirely unique and supremely stylish. All pieces are manufactured in the EU and Switzerland in particular, supporting local craftsmen whilst keeping the CO² output low due to short shipping distances. Loved by celebrities and ecowarriors alike, RoyalBLUSH is available to buy through their website and internationally in 45 high-end stores. With the range recently expanded to include jewellery, belts, purses, wallets, and cases for glasses and iPhones, SIX 21

there is plenty to choose from. Particular favourites include a stunning leather and salmon skin twisted bracelet and a gorgeous on-trend rucksack – the premiere bag of choice this season.

www.royalblush.ch


on the radar

the BEULAH effect

Natasha Rufus Isaacs and Lavinia Brennan are busy ladies. SIX magazine meets them as they rush back from a London radio interview to promote their burgeoning ethical fashion label, Beulah London. Creators of elegant, highly flattering and beautifully-cut silk dresses inspired by the 1950s, with a colour palette that uses vibrant and electric colours taken straight out of India, co-founder Natasha says of their design aesthetic: “We both love Ozzie Clark, who has been a huge inspiration with flowing silks and billowing sleeves”. Aside from the ethical manufacture of the dresses themselves, the Beulah business model has its focus elsewhere in the supply chain: for every garment sold, Beulah gives customers a free bag. The bags are hand-made in India by women working for the organisation Freeset, which aims to free them from poverty and lives of prostitution. The women are provided with health insurance, fair wages and training schemes to help protect them. As Natasha explains, this is called ‘The Beulah Effect’ (their take on The Butterfly Effect), symbolic of the change that can occur when one small action is taken. In India there are an estimated three million prostitutes – 1.2million of which are sadly children. It is a difficult cycle to escape from and many never do. Natasha explains that the charity pays off the women’s debts and

gives them the skills they need to progress in life. There is a great sense of pride that comes with this involvement. Natasha and Lavinia are both women who have had extensive first hand experience working in the slums, witnessing true poverty and seeing the devastating effects of prostitution. Natasha tells me of one woman who up until now “...could never look anyone in the eye. Now she can be proud of what she is doing. So much so that she goes to the red-light district and recruits other, giving them testimony of how Freeset has changed her life”. Although currently the rescued girls only make the bags, the idea is that in the future they will be trained to make other products. Beulah would like to eventually expand into creating silk scarves for example, which the girls could produce. They are also hoping to start a t-shirt campaign “to raise awareness around human trafficking”. With no formal training in fashion design, Beulah London represent an increasingly expanding new breed of designer. Commended by the UN for their work to combat slavery through fashion they reflect a growing desire to change the status quo. Emancipation through fashion; quality in design. www.beulahlondon.com

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ART

love is WHAT Tracey Emin

by Aindrea Emelife

Mad Tracey’ is back.

Ever since she entered the British art scene in the 1990s, she has continually injected a powerful vivaciousness, wonder and brutal truth into the controversial works which have gained her the title of the ‘bad girl of British art’. To celebrate Emin, the Hayward Gallery have created a retrospective of her works: who knew so much controversy could be housed under one roof? Amongst the pieces included are the famously misspelt appliqué blanket ‘Pysco Slut’, an installation charting an exploration of the afterlife through a Ouija board, and new outdoor sculptures created especially for the exhibition. What makes Emin’s work so intense lies in its highly personal nature.

Past lovers’ names are stitched onto a tent in ‘Everyone I Have Ever Slept With’ (1963-1995), creating a flamboyant statement on promiscuity and relationships, whereas her unmade, litter strewn bed (My Bed, 1998), gained her the

She cannot be ignored, she will not be ignored.

into one of Britain’s most celebrated artists. The other commission by Emin sees the artist collaborating, somewhat unusually, with Selfridges in London. Titled “Walking Around My World”, the installation presents new insights into the artist’s lifestyle and tastes. Emin has also been given carte blanche by Selfridges to fill five of the store’s largest windows surrounding the Concept Store. Emin also collaborates with Thomas Goode fine bone china, presenting an exclusive edition of 100 Picassoinspired plates, using a neverbefore-seen drawing. Exclusive to Selfridges, until 31st July.

most critical acclaim, spearheading a movement which changed British art completely. The self-proclaimed “crazy, anorexic-alcoholic-childless, beautiful woman”, will let us into that crazy, creative head of hers with rarely seen pieces from the beginning of her career featured in this groundbreaking exhibition, www.loveiswhatyouwant.com providing a much anticipated peek www.emininternational.com SIX 26


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8315 West 3rd Street || Los Angeles || 323 424 4807 www.pyrrha.com


now

WHITE heights It never really goes away, but this season, white is back in full head-to-toe force.

by Nicola Thornley

White evokes peace, innocence and purity –

and luckily for us there are plenty of brands who have the ethics to match.

Not one that would instantly spring to mind as an ‘ethical brand’, Alexander McQueen’s profound respect for the arts and crafts movement is integral to his eponymous collections – and what better way to kick-off the white trend than with the now world-famous royal wedding dress? The historic dress was made in England using locally sourced materials, with the intricate and laborious embroidery crafted by The Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court using the Irish Carrickmacross lace tradition, which dates back to the 1820s. Whilst the labour and love that goes in to creating such hand-crafted details makes them costly beyond most of our means, this patronage of the arts and crafts should be celebrated for keeping these traditional skills alive.

Hand-embroidered lace and appliqué details (in white, of course), continue to reign in the McQueen SS11 collection as royal wedding fever crept onto the catwalk. Pretty Broderie Anglaise dresses marked the comeback of this white-work embroidery technique, which also featured in organic cotton at Stella McCartney and Organic by John Patrick.

White at Stella McCartney is typically sharp, clean and luxe. Go for optic white all-over and complete the look by pairing with leather-free shoes and a raffia clutch bag. Raffia being bio-degradable, from an easily renewable source and requiring little, if any, processing from its natural state. The McCartney brand is synonymous with high morals using only faux leather and organic cotton where possible (by McCartney’s own admission ‘where possible’ is not perfect – this is up for improvement), created in their wind-powered head-quarters. SIX 30


Alexander McQueen SIX 31


Suno

Le Bac by United Bamboo

white

If ‘organic where possible’ isn’t quite good enough for you then look to Organic by John Patrick for a more totalitarian approach. White Broderie Anglaise is represented again and is beautifully hand-embroidered. If you’re not over colour-blocking just yet then follow suit and pair white with the palest hues you can find to give a fresh take on the look and make the most of both trends. While the big trend in white is clearly Broderie Anglaise, laser cutting - as seen at Suno - gives the craft look a modern edge. These all-white offerings are a departure from Suno’s signature bright, clashing prints, although the laser-cutting, ruffles and bold accessories make enough noise to be recognised. At least 70% of Suno’s collection is made in Kenya in an effort to create employment following 2007’s post-election violence, the rest is made at home in New York or embroidered in India. A softer, dreamier way to wear white this season was seen on Prophetik’s aptly green catwalk:

John Patrick John Patrick

designer/poet Jeff Garner is committed to using sustainable materials, which include durable hemp that is naturally softened with baking soda, wild silk, flax, organic linens, ramie and cotton. Dyeing is done by hand on the premises in Tennessee using only earth and plant-based dyes, such as the indigo dip-dyed silk (pictured). White with a splash of indigo featured again in From Somewhere’s latest collaboration. Credited with helping to bring ethical fashion to the mainstream for their partnership with Tesco and long-standing involvement with Estethica at London Fashion Week, this season From Somewhere have partnered with Speedo. Recycled fashion has never looked so slick thanks to FINA (Federation Internationale de Natation), swimming’s governing body, prohibiting the use of full body suits in January 2010. This ruling left Speedo with a surplus of its record breaking LZR Racer suit, which was destined for landfill… until From Somewhere came along – and we’re mighty pleased they did.

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Stella McCartney

Beulah

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ask

the leader of the {fashion} pack Ali Schofield meets the most influential person on the Great British high-street, currently turning her eye to all things ethical at Whistles. So how did she turn around the fortunes of these companies? It all starts with transparency in the supply base. Shepherdson explains, “We’ve got 35 factories [at Whistles] and when I was trying to do the same thing in Topshop we had 750, so immediately it’s a much easier piece of work. The difference with Topshop is that because we were very big and powerful, we could tell people what we wanted them to do. In Whistles we’re very small and we’re not very powerful so we can’t tell them what to do. But what we can do is say: ‘actually, you know what, we’re only going to work with someone who has demonstrated that they have the ethics that we’re looking for in a manufacturer’”.

Jane Shepherdson believes Britain is due a spell in rehab: “I almost think that buying cheap clothes is a bit like an addiction, you know like alcoholism or something.” The CEO of Whistles seems pleased when I ask her about ethical fashion. While she’s best known for her eightyear stint as brand director of Topshop - The Telegraph dubbed her the ‘most important woman in fashion and most influential person on the British high-street’ Shepherdson left the role in 2006 and has worked as an unpaid advisor to Oxfam, a non-executive director of People Tree and since 2008, has turned the once frumpy Whistles into a high-end high-street, go-to boutique. Now, make that the ethical go-to boutique.

This translates largely as bringing industry back to Britain. When I meet Shepherdson in Leeds a city once buoyed by its mills and manufacturing epicentre - she has just sourced fabrics from the city and nearby Bradford - a move she admits her team thought would be more expensive than their profit margins could stand. “Not only can we afford them, but they’re really beautiful fabrics”, she says. “It’s really nice to be able to actually support and sustain industries in this country which are dying out.” “The trouble is there’s very little manufacturing left. There used to be a hell of a lot around here, but there’s not a lot left now, there’s a few factories in London but there’s not really much more, which is a real shame. If you were in France or Italy, one of the reasons that the big design houses there do so well, is because they’ve got the small infrastructure and a manufacturing industry still in the country, and we just don’t have that [in Britain].”

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I wonder aloud if Shepherdson thinks consumer attitudes are changing. “When the recession hit and everyone kept saying, ‘oh, you know what this is going to mean, that people are actually going to buy fewer clothes, but they’ll be considered purchases’. I really, really wish that was the case, but I haven’t seen an awful lot of evidence of that. I still go past Primark and see people coming out with seven bags.” Shepherdson remains vexed by fast-fashion, particularly now, as raw material prices shoot up silk by as much as 60% recently and price-tags at retailers such as Primark don’t seem to be shifting as a result. Ultimately, it’s up to consumers, including you, me and Shepherdson herself, to stay on the ethical wagon. “Occasionally I’ll go and buy a pair of trousers for £30 or something and then I’ll get them home and just think ‘why did I do that?’ They’re horrible, they’re badly made and there’s no intrinsic design quality to them. It’s almost like you fall off the wagon and go off and buy something terrible and then you think, ‘oh I’m not doing that again’”. While it’s a relief to know Shepherdson makes the odd fashion faux-pas too, it’s clear that in a time of austerity, it’s now more than ever that as a consuming nation we need to stick to our ethical guns. www.whistles.co.uk

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ask mighty-spirited

WARRIOR Sara Arai by Hitomi Ito

As a reformer of traditional

Japanese methods, Sara Arai breaks the mold str ictl y followed by more traditional artisans, trying to rediscover and re-incarnate several production methods on the verge of extinction through her eponymous label. Incorporating the ‘one size fits all’ formula, whilst turning her hand to recycling, Arai adopts intuitive ways to express the beauty of the Japanese spirit. With pieces based upon her deep admiration for Japanese culture’s delicate sensibility, the designer deftly fuses this with the contrasting dynamism of her Chinese heritage, evident in a rich colour palette of black, deep green, smoky blue, gold and white, expressing strength. This year, araisara’s catwalk s h o w was presented at

Yushima-Seido: a shrine constructed during the fifth reign of Edo, under Tsunayoshi Tokugawa (1646-1709). On the day of the show, the venue had been shadowed with thick grey clouds, however for the duration of the catwalk presentation the clouds parted and bright rays of sunlight shone inside the shrine, offering a my s t i c a l m o o d, f u r t h e r enhanced by the melodies of a string quartet. The collection’s theme, ‘yu-sho no bi’ meaning ‘ beauty of mighty-spirited warrior’, aims to represent the spirit of the Sengoku period’s warriors (1493-1573), at a time of constant military conflict designed to unify the islands of Japan. The warriors of the Sengoku period wore gorgeous war costumes emblazoned with their household insignias, SIX 36

which were displayed as proof of their belief in honour, and as a symbol of the way of life they pledged to defend. Their strong will to realise their dreams and to establish a safe world without war changed old ways of thinking and established the basis of Japan’s sense of values. “When the 11th March earthquake struck, my artisans and I were more-than-ever convinced that now is the time we have to do this”, Arai says. “Our lifestyle has changed and it is the era of chaos again in Japan since the earthquake. We need to have a strong spirit and belief in our future, just as the Sengoku warriors did.” Born as Cheng Mei, Arai opened her own studio in 2005 in Mejiro, the northern district of Shinjuku. Since then, her label has continuously utilised


“ The first reason that traditional methods are fading away is due to the fact that our lifestyles have changed. Life is fast, and it’s difficult to take a moment to relax and enjoy life. Traditional methods require so much time, and with how life happens in the present, using time-consuming methods feels impossible. Also, traditional methods suited the lifestyle of their time. They wouldn’t fit into our modern lifestyle unless you changed how they are utilised. For artisans, modern circumstances are so challenging; it already seems to

kimonos, initially remaking them to fit into the modern lifestyle as tailor-made designer items. “I loved the beauty of it… when you cut a small piece out of the kimono fabric; you find another small world of beauty. I knew the traditional industry was shrinking, so I tried to cherish it by recycling, in order to find a way to use a kimono for as long as there remains fabric, but I never thought of actually doing something to preserve the technique itself.” It was after her encounter with ‘Miya-zomé’, a traditional screen printing technique, that

‘Artisans are there to preserve and protect’ be asking too much to simply protect their craft without even raising the demand and actively trying for innovation”, Arai explains. “So what I do as a designer is to tell them how to use the traditional method in a modern context. For example, ‘KyoYuzen’ dye artisans ordinarily sit and draw on fabric with thin pens and make fabrics that are 1 metre long. Instead, I handed them a brush used to paint on wood or walls to draw 2.6 metre long fabric. Rather than sit while drawing, they now had to run. Delicate designs drawn with thin pens are beautiful, but I needed to make it more manufactured for prêt-a-porter. With coarser brushes and fabrics that are long enough for westernized clothes, they could produce far more than they

she changed her attitude. A ‘Miya-zomé’ atelier she visited in Utsunomiya City, in the Northern Kanto region, was run by just one 80-year-old artisan. He still exactly follows the traditional recipe, using the Tagawa River water flowing in the city and, as dye, wild flowers picked from around the studio, air-dried with only the help of sunshine and wind. Colours come out differently according to how the sun has shone and the condition of the soil and flowers. “When I saw this scene and met the artisan, I understood what it means to live in nature. Then, I knew I had to tell everyone about what we are losing. I decided to participate in JFW ( Japan Fashion Week) as a prêt-a-porter designer so that I could present my stories to as many people as possible.” SIX 37


have previously.” One of her methods, ‘Bokashi-zomé’ dye, which is used in many of her pieces as a signature method, originated from a range of foundation dyes used to prepare ‘Kyo-Yuzen’ drawings. Also this season, Arai has used Japanese eco-leather with kimono embossing. “Artisans are there to preserve and protect. They are so desperate to protect their methods in a shrinking industry, I think they started to have illusions that they have to preserve exactly and everything as it was in the past. So they put their all into drawing something

sara arai

‘I b e l i e v e that o u r present is founded in o u r p a s t .’

like dragons or making yukata kimonos with very traditional designs. People would think it’s beautiful, but won’t wear dragons and yukatas as they don’t look fashionable in the present. What I ask them to do is something that they would not ever think of doing. It’s scary to deny what the artisans believe is their duty, and there is no promise that my suggestions will lead to more purchasing, but in order to preserve the

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method, it has to be relevant in our daily lives.” Arai now works with numerous artisans from Kiryu (Gunma Prefecture), Kyoto and Tokyo; who all enjoy the challenge that she brings. “I am not sure whether what I am doing is right, but I see little by little the positive impact of my work. Many of my artisans say that young people started to knock on their door to become an apprentice, and that they have more visitors.” Interestingly Arai also started to see some knock-on effects reflected in the requests of her clients. “When I introduce my pieces to my clients, they suggest I make kimonos again, with my own designs but using traditional methods. For example, I used ‘Ichimatsu’ design, which is usually a white-and-black blocked design like a checkerboard, in a goldish-green colour and some tilted blocks. Then a client who saw this told me that she wanted a kimono in this ‘Ichi-matsu’ pattern. And she is not the only one, it becomes more and more frequent. I feel this is a good combination of preservation and innovation. When I try new things out based on a traditional method, this stimulates me to create new traditional garments, which in turn again brings about the new avant-garde.” On the other hand, Arai shares her awareness that there


are some methods she works with but that are in reality completely lost because of the environmental damage our planet has already suffered. ‘Yohen zomé’, which means “dye that changes colours depending on lights”, is a nickname given to ‘Koh-row-zen’ dyes, which were used in the early Heian period (794-1192), worn during important ceremonies by the nobles. They are considered the finest dyes ever used in Japanese history, and in their times were likened to dreams due to their romantic changing of colour; from grey to purple, or from black to red. “Artisans decided not to use the original historic name in order to show respect to the method. We know how the methods exactly worked and there are even artisans that would know how to apply it today. However, the quality of our soil has changed for the worse, and no matter how exactly the artisan follows the methods, the quality colour wouldn’t be close to, let alone be the same as, what was achieved 1,000 years ago. Chemical dyes are instead being used to create some of the same or very similar effects, and these fabrics do change depending on how the light falls onto them. But it is not the same thing anymore. Even though, we have the recipe, we cannot truly recreate the results anymore.”

Arai concludes that the main reason why she works with traditional methods: “I believe that our present is founded in our past. Everything is connected and one can’t be here without any cause. We can’t forget what we are standing on. I love the beauty of the cycle that each phenomenon affects the phenomenons of the future.” Arai wishes to adopt more and more traditional methods, reincarnate them and express the ‘Beauty of East Asia’ (including methods from her homeland China), and many other Asian countries such

‘Everything is connected; one can’t be here without any cause.’

as India and Thailand. “I have only done five seasons up to now and I think I am still starting out. It might be in the generation of designers coming after me, but for now I, myself cannot see what araisara will be like. I would love it if araisara managed to express something that no other brand can, whilst creating unique collections that help to preserve our heritage in Asia. That is my dream!” SIX 39


S&E*

made in italy* *sustainable& ethical fashion Whoever said that ethical fashion isn’t fashionable? It certainly is in Italy, the country renowned for its luxurious style. Quality, for the average Italian consumer, means long-lasting products that are ‘Made in Italy’ and have an ever-evolving style. Italians are world-famous as arbiters of style and for their innate good taste, immediately able to judge the intrinsic quality of whatever they are buying a mile off. by Ilaria Pasquinelli SIX 40


Often, Italian consumers have more sustainable buying and consuming behaviours than their peers in other European countries, with a natural tendency to invest in fewer pieces which will last longer. It is a country where even though the average quality of garment is of a high standard, ethical fashion as we know it in the UK or, in general, in northern Europe, is still quite an unknown concept. With initiatives across Italy, we are starting to see this change. German-Liberian former model Carmen Björnal arrived in Italy in the 1980s, where she became a muse and icon of designers such as Armani, Ferré and Fendi amongst others. Bjönal founded her fashion accessory brand, CEEBEE after a 2006 trip to Liberia, where she became aware of the huge problems in waste management. Björnal designs fashionable bags, belts and jewellery which are made from at least 60% recycled materials, such as paper. Of her brand Björnal says: “My collections are created according to the materials I can find and the materials I can use are infinite! Looking at an old newspaper page, I get inspired to think what that page could become, which is one of the most intriguing parts of my job.”

959®

959® is the project of the indus-

trial designer Paolo Ferrari who uses old seatbelts in shiny/matt black to make bags. Besides colour, it is the notion of timelessness that gives rise to new designs: from elegant bags, also created using the signature Ferrari weaving technique, to protective covers for high technology, through to the practical briefcase. He says,“My creations are the explication of concepts such as form, function, matter, without neglecting aesthetics”.

Ceebee SIX 41


S&E*

italy* topSIX

I taly has such a deep-rooted tradition in tailoring and

sartorial craftsmanship, that fast fashion never really got its grip on ‘Made In Italy’, or at least not as much as it has on other markets. The quality of Italian-made products is undisputed, although modern production methods mean that some of the more niche textile skills of old might be in danger of being lost forever. Aiming to salvage the environment and antique weaving techniques, Italian S&E designers are making the most of their heritage, elevating the art of fashion to new, sustainable, heights.

Cosi Nero Quasi Blue

by Veronica Crespi SIX 42


Inspired by the old weaving techniques of his homeland Sardinia, Antonello developed a range of handbags made from hand-woven fabrics, produced in ethically managed factories and workshops entirely run by women. Antonello’s exclusive ‘luxury eco’ line of accessories uses sustainable yarns made with Sardinian sheep wool, dyed locally with Sardinian plants, and regenerated-recycled cotton. The handbag linings are made from beautiful ends of roll and off-cut fabrics from Sardinian textiles factories. The fibres in bags come from organically farmed sheep: conventional farming is a huge consumer of nonrenewable fossil fuels, whereas Sardinian farmers have been using organic farming for generations. www.antonellotedde.co.uk

The capsule collection that launched the Così Nero Quasi Blue line (so black it’s almost blue), designed by Federica Martin Wedard, reflects an extremely refined and versatile creative vision, where women’s codes in elegance are based on the most exclusive contrasts; tradition and avant-garde, technique and evolution, purity and colour. Beyond the surface, contemporary femininity is brought to life by the perfect balance between sartorial taste and design innovation, exalted by the use of organic fabrics treated and processed to become light, breathable and hypercomfortable: Biosatin, Biodenim, Bamboo linen, Shatul - a mix of silk and hemp with a pearly effect, and Farfara, a jersey obtained from a crab shell fibre. www.cosineroquasiblue.com

Antonello

Cangiari is a new ethical and social fashion brand launched in 2009. Each item in Cangiari collection is unique and made more precious by the use of superior textile craft applications: hand-embroidered and hand-woven fabrics, produced according to the ancient traditions of Calabria, but with a modern take. Cangiari’ means ‘changing’ in the dialect spoken in Calabria and Sicily – as in ‘bringing change into the fashion system’. Cangiari’s collections are designed by a creative community and are entirely produced in Calabria and Sicily using precious fabrics and high-quality craft processes. Cangiari originates from a social responsibility mission and is sponsored by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and tutored by entrepreneur Santo Versace, brother of Donatella and the late Gianni, and of Calabrese origin. Cangiari is also socially responsible: the entire production pipeline is made up of local co-operatives, promoting local communities struggling against the force of the mafia, and giving work to disadvantaged people. www.cangiari.it

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Cangiari


S&E italy*

Yoj developed their research in the direction of a responsible attitude towards the Earth - sensitive to the absolute importance of the renewal of energy sources and the control of material production. Yoj believe these issues need to find natural answers – encouraging them to only work with materials produced in ethical and respectful environments, utilising organic fibres and naturally extracted dyes. Each piece from the collection is a ‘unique piece’, being completely hand-made in every phase of the process: dyeing (by decoction or infusion, with herbal teas or other extracts derived from organic vegetable growing), drawing and tailoring. www.fashionyoj.com

Reggiani

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Yoj

Reggiani, by Elena Reggiani, is the offspring of a project born from Italian know-how, where sartorial craftsmanship, cutting-edge fabrics and colours create the new codes of modern style. Clothes made of natural materials with a bodymodelling fit and highly elastic qualities, enhance the body’s form through a new wearability based on the concept of elegance in movement. The collections consist of models with timeless and classic forms decorated by small fans, curls and sensual flounces. Besides the extraordinary bodymodelling techniques and the delicate ‘modern retro’ taste, Elena Reggiani’s creative vision chooses colour as the new aesthetic and stylistic guide, unveiling a vibrant and sophisticated palette each season. www.reggianiboutique.com


The influences behind Giunone Couture lie in modern environmental issues, which results in all garments created using 100% Italian fabrics, rigorously vetted to be certified eco-friendly. Natural and untreated cotton hints at days gone by, as does its juxtaposition with sartorial craftsmanship which is distinctive to the Turin-based atelier. A profound knowledge of materials and shapes, together with patternmaking and tailoring techniques are the basis of a line in which the classic and the experimental merge. Materials are the focal point of all collections, treated with the intent of conferring them with a new sense of lightness and movement. www.giunonecouture.it

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S&E*

himalayas* Thinking ‘Himalayas’ usually conjures up images of soaring peaks, heavily laden, picturesque temples and beautiful snowy peaks. Rarely would thoughts of high-fashion brands find their way into this particular daydream. However, SIX found a fashion hub of artisan production bringing Himalayan S&E fashion to the world.

IOWEYOU

by Thea Natalie SIX 46


People Tree

IOWEYOU was launched out of Creative Director and designer Kavita Parmar’s frustration with being trapped in a fashion industry that devalued goods only a few months after they were brand new and desirable. IOWEYOU works with an artisan community base of 243 weavers directly employed by IOWEYOU, with a hope of expanding as the brand gains momentum. Each piece has a trackable story, a library of faces detailing the personal story of each artisan to handle, work with and assemble the final garment. This personal touch is the key to IOWEYOU’s individuality. www.iouproject.com SIX 47

O ver the last 5 years P E O P L E TREE have brought eco f ash ion into the spotlight through collaborations with some of Britain’s bestloved icons like Vivienne We s t w o o d , Emma Watson and Laura Ashley to name a few. People Tree vision is one of Fair Trade, using organic clothing to create lasting partnerships with artisan producers in the developing world. People Tree use only organic cotton produced in India and the Himalayas, aiming to free farmers from debt and help them to plan for a better future. Every S&E brand must also be a competitive brand in it’s own right, and People Tree is the cutting edge of cool boho – an invaluable asset to sustainable fashion. www.peopletree.co.uk


S&E himalayas* Central St Martin’s graduate Carrie Parry’s AW11 line has been received with more than a little enthusiasm from the New York garment industry. A multidimensional collection that somehow manages to reference 1950s housewives, the modern skater girl and Himalayan head wear all in one, its overall feeling is one of intrigue and sophistication. Carrie Parry is a brand gaining momentum not only for the fabulous designs, but for the well thought out principals and ethics behind the brand. Consideration has been given to every fabric, every dye, and every method of production used to assemble the collection. Organic cotton, organic wool, recycled fabrics and artisan-produced silk, are constructed locally and sold globally. Parry’s artisan produced wools and silks are hand woven by the Panchachuli Womens Weavers Co-operative: a group of over 800 women living across 32 villages in the Himalayas. The organisation encourages traditional methods of weaving and knitting, and the preservation of community-based skills transfer for the hundreds of artisans producing these beautiful fabrics. Panchachuli supply their artisan fabric to ethical brands worldwide and are branching into complete garment construction. The use of co-operatives has increased in popularity over the last 20 years, and the partnership of Carrie Parry & Panchachuli is a prime example of the benefits achievable. Soon to be available online, the Carrie Parry range is one to watch for emerging eco brands.

www.carrieparry.com

Carrie Parry SIX 48


Of all the eco-brands, Machja could be the sexiest you’ll ever find - young and fresh, with flattering cuts and a modern, luxurious feel. A collection of garments made from cashmere, soft milk fibres and other delicious fabrics, Machja are tempting even the most discerning fashionistas towards their organic, sustainable fabrics. Machja work with a nunnery in Tamil Nadu, Southern India, where their garments are put together by 120 staff who are all disabled women from the region, demonstrating that there is no limit to the good that can be done by small businesses with strong principals. Using only Skal, IMO and eco-certified fabrics ensures that their cotton supplies are pesticide free. www.machja.com Machja SIX 49


S&E himalayas* Boho lovers take note! The Manumit range is a perfect addition to flowing maxi dresses, sun-kissed skin and a summer beach holiday. Intricate silver earrings, burnished gold bangles and bright beaded necklaces all have a unique feel, which Manumit believe comes from the individual artisans who create these pieces. Manumit have joined forces with the village or Moradabad to foster the local artisan community through the Trade Not Aid initiative. The contemporary silver and fashion jewellery is fair-trade certified, and all produced locally using traditional methods.

Manumit

www.manumituk.com

Joe Komodo began by selling traditional souvenirs at Camden market and as popularity for original and sustainable items grew, Joe began a clothing line. Komodo works with local factories to support them to achieve SA8000 certification, a working conditions standard based on the UN Declaration of Human Rights. After 20 years in the fashion market, Komodo has worked on a limited edition Free Tibet trainer made from recycled tyres, a publication of poetry and garnered support from celebrities such as Joanna Lumley and Toby Wheeler, founder of Lonely Planet. www.komodo.co.uk

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Komodo


S&E*

middle east*

Ethical fashion is a growing movement in the world’s fashion capitals: London, NY, Paris, Milan and in the developing world, the Middle East is not far behind in producing high-end ethical fashion brands. Growing up in the Middle East it is impossible not to love and follow fashion. Most Middle Eastern women have a strong sense of style and fashion which is individual and unique. With the rise of luxury fashion brands setting up shop in the Middle East, there is a strong emphasis on developing homegrown fashion brands that give back to society, empower women, conserve the environment and act as a catalyst for positive social change.

The Yard

by Ayesha Mustafa SIX 52


Entirely hand-made, Numa items are made with precious metals and stones, luxurious fabrics and the finest Italian leathers, also utilising recycled components and materials. The brand carries two diffusion lines: Numa Chic - jewellery, accessories, bags and clothing for women, and Numa Lifestyle - a homeware range. Numa employs marganilized artisans who specialize in traditional and exquisite Tunisian craft ,which is now getting obsolete due to mass market production. The brand gave a new lease of life to ancient traditions of craft making and brought value to the work of the artisans by providing them with sustainable revenue and a market in which to sell their creations. Dahlouk has been awarded the title of Primary Artisan by the Tunisian Government, which is a great honour. Numa can be found in designer shops, art galleries and hotels in Dubai, Geneva, Oslo and Amsterdam. The collection will be available in the UK in September through Fashion ComPassion.

Hope Sew

Numa

Hope Sew nightwear is created from delicate Arabian fabric called kuffiyeh, which is worn throughout the region as a scarf. The kuffiyeh is 100% cotton intricately woven with a distinct style and comes in a variety of colours. The seamstresses tailor these into contemporary nightwear for both women and men. The name says it all – Hope Sew is a social entrepreneurial project for Palestinian women living in the West Bank with no income or means of survival. Hope Sew provides the women with a sustainable wage by encouraging them to make hand-sewn nightwear items. The brand was started by Rosie Watt, an anthropology student from the UK who witnessed first-hand the adverse socioeconomic conditions of the Palestinian women. Hope Sew nurtures and enhances the expertise of these women through in-house training sessions, and by developing their creative, marketing and business skills. Hope Sew is available in the UK through Fashion ComPassion. SIX 53


S&E middle east* the yard is a one-of-a-kind online store based in Kuwait that beautifully combines the old with the new to create a highly desirable shopping experience. The Yard specialises in recycled vintage and eclectic pieces from upcoming designers that are rooted in their recycling ethics. The Yard gathers beautifully designed pieces from all over the world and packages them in charming recycled materials. www.theyard-kw.com

The Yard

Frontline Fashion

Frontline Fashion is an online magazine in Dubai that is changing the perception of fashion by combining style with a social conscience. Frontline sets out not only to provide the latest news from the ‘frontline’ on the hottest lifestyle trends, jet-set destinations and catwalk creations, but also to raise awareness about humanitarian issues and funds to support dedicated projects through its fashion clothing range Zanmi. which means ‘friends’ in Haitian. The project began with simple t-shirts and totes with the goal to produce a full range of clothing. This project is truly unique as it is committed to donating 50% of all of Frontline Fashion’s profits towards foundation projects that will reconstruct a dormitory and an orphanage in the earthquake-destroyed country of Haiti.

sarah’s bag is one of the oldest and most established socially responsible fashion brands in the Middle East. Sarah’s Bag was established in Lebanon in 2000 by Sarah Beydoun, who combined her interest in bettering underprivileged women’s lives with her love for fashion. Sarah’s Bag was born out of providing jobs and an income to ex-female prisoners in Lebanon who were stigmatised and marginalized in society. Sarah’s vision was to give these women a place to belong, where they would feel counted and valued. The company employs and trains women, who create beautiful hand-made pieces and revamp the traditional art by giving it a modern twist. Sarah’s Bag achieved international acclaim via the British Fashion Council in 2008 and are sold in Lebanon, Dubai, London, Paris and New York.

www.frontlinef.com

www.sarahsbag.com

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Sarah’s Bag

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S&E*

andes*

In a region where the dress is a vibrant, colourful celebration of artisan craftsmanship and woven textiles, fashion speaks volumes. Peru is rich with heritage and tradition and it is through the clothing and textile industry that a number of international (and Peruvian-based) fashion brands are empowering communities of women through entrepreneurship, preserving endangered weaving traditions, and broadening their access to market. From the depths of Colca Canyon to the high Andes, the following stories show how fashion is supporting artisans across Peru.

by Emma Grady SIX 56


Launched in 2009, Spinna is a foundation and a membership-based network of fashion and trade professionals, from small suppliers to major retail companies, dedicated to the economic empowerment of female entrepreneurs in the textile and clothing industry. In Peru, SPINNA is working to showcase the luxury alpaca and baby alpaca materials produced by women artisans. In addition to Art Atlas, SPINNA works with Alpacolca, named after its primary material, baby alpaca, and the label’s location near Colca Canyon, and Inka Trends, who supply high-end fashion labels around the world. More than 25 years ago, Inka Trends began as a small co-operative of women working in Puno. Today, they work with 250 knitters to satisfy the demand of clients in the UK, France, Switzerland, Italy, the US and Canada.

Annie O.

High in The Andes of Peru, Annie O. Waterman, founder of the eponymous fashion label Annie O., works with more than 80 women in a weaving co-operative that supports victims of domestic violence and those living in impoverished conditions. Based in Colorado, USA, Waterman believes in paying artisans a fair wage and hopes to break the cycle of poverty by helping the women gain independence. Annie O’s accessory collection is comprised of vibrant hand-embroidered clutches, belts, and horn cuffs, which are made from recycled horn courtesy of a family business located in the slums of Lima. SIX 57


S&E andes* In Arequipa, the capital city of the Arequipa Region in southern Peru, husband and wife team Jorge and Jessica Rodriguez were initially driven by a goal to bring a sustainable and communityoriented business to their area. Both a fashion label and a non-profit organisation, Art Atlas is motivated by a goal to have a positive impact on the community. In 2003, the Rodriguez founded the non-profit Art Atlas Foundation to promote women and youth entrepreneurship, build shelters for alpaca farmers, provide school supplies to children, and fund education initiatives in the textile industry, including training in kitting and machine operation. The non- and for-profit sectors of Art Atlas work hand in hand with one another and are an integral part of their business. A percentage of sales helps fund the non-profit initiatives while their business side depends on the large network of artisans and knitters that the foundation has established. During a busy season Art Atlas employ up to 700 artisans at one time to produce garments for their global clientele, which includes their biggest market, the United States. Just as people are at the core of the Art Atlas brand so too are sustainable materials. Their specialty is alpaca fibre and organic cotton, which is grown and produced in northern Peru without the use of pesticides, harmful chemicals or toxins. They work with wool, silk, tencel, modal, and bamboo to produce a full range of apparel and accessories for women and babies in styles that echo the heritage of the region that produced them. The result is luxurious scarves in vibrant hues, relaxedfit sweaters in neutral colour tones - achieved with low impact dyes – and beautifully functional outwear.


Down the Patakancha River, non-profit organisation Awamaki is bringing the work of indigenous Quechua women weavers to an international market. Through a four-month fashion design residency, called Awamaki Lab, young designers transform hand-spun Andean textiles into contemporar y fashion, all the while preserving endangered weaving traditions and creating entrepreneurship among female artisans. Awamaki Lab’s inaugural collection, produced with designer Nieli Vallin, will be available for sale at the online store in autumn 2011. For Awamaki Lab’s next collaboration, two students from Parsons The New School for Design in New York City have been chosen to create a capsule collection with Awamaki’s sewing and knitwear co-operatives. Andria Crescioni will source textiles from the Patacancha weavers’ association on a capsule collection and Courtney Cedarholm will create high-end knitwear to diversify the woven collection. As part of the program, both students will receive mentoring from Tara St. James, designer for the New York based clothing label Study.


Kenya SIX 60

WILD beauty


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WILD, beautiful,

and MYSTERIOUS: Africa has been influencing some of the biggest

trends in the past years. Its unique ethnic style and cultural diversity imprinted many designs and have seen many triumphs down the Western catwalks. Nowadays, many brands turn to Africa for more than inspiration. Will to preserve the artisan skills and unique traditional techniques leads designers to employ local craftsmen. It also serves another purpose of providing aid, education and support to the local communities, helping the workers not only survive but live. by Musimbi King

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FAFA

The annual Festival for African Fashion and Arts (FAFA) was created in 2008 after the election violence to foster social cohesion through a celebration of the arts. Now in its fourth year, the festival seeks to build capacity in the local fashion industry by supporting designers that combine traditional techniques and materials with international marketability in the context of a worldclass event. FAFA projects a different image of Africa to the world: the continent is seen not as a case for charity, but as the home of brands which deliver uncompromising style and quality, while retaining a unique African signature.

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SUNO

kenya

Following the eruption of election violence that plunged Kenya into chaos in 2007, filmmaker Max Osterweis recognised a pressing need to restore business and consumer confidence in the country by investing in responsible production. Out of two small workshops in Nairobi, SUNO was born. The brand’s initial collection featured antique khangas bought from women in the rural island community of Lamu. No two pieces were the same, and within a year SUNO had established a considerable following from Anna Wintour to Michelle Obama. Now in its third year of production SUNO continues to thrive. The look has moved away from khangas, but still champions unabashed clashing prints and innovative layering. This is not a brand for the faint hearted, and perhaps that owes something to its success.

LALESSO

Laid-back summer label Lalesso is produced by SOKO, the factory behind ASOS Africa. Fo u n d e d b y A l i c e H e u s s e r a n d O l i v i a Kennaway in 2005, the label’s first responsibility was to place the needs of workers at the centre of production while promoting contemporary African fashion in the international arena. Known for easy to wear feminine pieces, Lalesso is now widely available across the UK and has recently branched into jewellery, produced in a fair-trade worksh op that provides employment for the disabled. In committing 100% of production to SOKO, both Lalesso and ASOS Africa are contributing to measurable change in one of Kenya’s poorest regions.

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ASOS AFRICA ASOS Africa collection offers ethical fashion with high-street friendly price-points. The success of ASOS has redefined how many consumers engage with clothing. So when the online retail giant announced it was collaborating with a small ethical factory on Kenya’s south coast, demand was high. On release, items sold out in just three hours and were featured almost immediately in Vogue. ASOS Africa cleverly combined clean silhouettes and easy-to-wear classics with subtle African references, cultivating a look that didn’t confine it simply to ‘tribal’ fashion trends. This season, rich tones balanced with neutral shades and relaxed tailoring make for a very successful line of separates. Material for the collection is woven in Mombasa, exclusively for ASOS, ensuring local communities benefit as much as possible from production. This close relationship and commitment to those producing the line is again reflected by the company’s announcement that £5 from the sale of each item from the collection, matched by them, will go towards building a new workshop. SIX 65


For SS11, Monsoon has launched its first eco-fashion collection, L.O.V.E. Consisting of 30 ultra-feminine pieces and comprised of two parts;

ELEMENTS and ETHEREAL, the L.O.V.E. collection celebrates

clean modern designs combined with Indian crafts, recycled materials and organic fabrics. The result is an extremely beautiful fashion collection, reminiscent of an unforgettable summer of love. by Nadia El Meallem

Recent years have seen the British high-street make an effort to go green, with organic cotton, recycled fabric and natural dyes making their way into various fashion outlets. Leading the retail pack in more ways than one, sustainability has always been close to Monsoon’s heart. While the business has grown into a global company with over 1,000 stores, the design-led retailer has championed the use of traditional handicrafts and natural fibres since 1973. These crafts remain integral to Monsoon and this is reflected in the beautiful hand-embroidery and embellishments that give the brand its uniqueness and edge. Standing for Living Our Values and Ethics, the new L.O.V.E. collection embodies all that Monsoon stands for without compromising on style. Monsoon was founded in 1972 by Peter Simon following a period of selling shaggy woollen coats on the Portobello Road and hand blockprinted clothes from Rajasthan. The original focus was always clothes with an ethnic origin from faraway places, including unusual dresses from Afghanistan and countries en route. In the

in

*L.O.V.E. early 21st Century this type of clothing chimed well with the trend for boho-chic and helped Monsoon to prosper during the all-too-recent recession. Using hand block-printing, quilting and delicate embroidery on organic cotton, cheesecloth and vegetable dyed silk whilst incorporating glass and pearl trims; the L.O.V.E range evokes the rich craft tradition core to Monsoon’s brand philosophy while highlighting positive change in ethical clothing production. The collection includes maxi dresses and skirts, embellished tops and tunics, cropped jackets, mini waistcoats and cute camisole tops. The colour palette flows from neutral earth colours and whites to hot pink and indigo. Key pieces include an organic cotton frill layered maxi skirt along with the Grecian pearl beaded cheesecloth top, a cerise maxi cheesecloth dress and a blue silk smocked jumpsuit. The collection has a feeling of flow, and style names such as the ‘Delhi dress’, ‘San Antonio top’ and ‘Calcutta shorts’ give the collection an exotic flavour. SIX 66


*

Living Va l u e s

O

in harmony with our world // ur roots // that put people first // thics in action //

E

The L.O.V.E. collection is available in selected stores and online. Prices range from ÂŁ90-250 with 10% of profits going to The Monsoon Accessorize Trust, which helps women and children in Asia through projects focusing on healthcare, education and income generation. www.monsoon.co.uk SIX 67


PRADA made in...

In the early decades of the

twentieth century, Miuccia P rada’s g r a n d f a t h e r, t h e v i s i o n a r y Mario Prada, travelled the world in tireless pursuit of ideas and inspiration. His goal was not only to discover the unique and luxurious materials, and sumptuous fabrics, but also to loc a te s o phi s t i c a te d craftsmen and manufacturers to realize his revolutionary designs. His adventures uncovered Alsatian and Austrian leatherwork, Bohemian crystals, Asian “galuscià” and English silver-smithing to name but a few. The spirit of the curious connoisseur

still rests at the heart of Prada. Remaining faithful to these ideals, the company continues to identify those specialized craftspeople that represent an unrivaled standard of excellence. Using Mario Prada’s time-honed strategy, Prada collaborates with these exquisite artisans to p r od u c e mod e r n , i n n o vative designs utilizing the traditional craftsmanship, mater ials, and manufacturing techniques of a specif ic region. This approach led to the PRADA “Made in …” collections, which can be identified by special labels dedicated to each country of origin.

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PRADA Made in Scotland

A collection of traditional tartan wool kilts from the original UK workshops that utilize centuries-old manufacturing and weaving techniques.

PRADA Made in India

A collection of entirel y handmade garments from the workshops that specialize in Chikan -- the most ancient and refined type of Indian embroidery -and handmade, multicoloured ballerina flats, sandals and handbags that employ an equally-sophisticated traditional weaving technique.

PRADA Made in Japan

A collection of jeans produced by Dova, the world’s most sophisticated denim manufacturer. The “PRADA Made in Japan” jeans can be custom ordered in four different varieties of cloth and seven different washes, meaning that every article is one-of-a-kind.

PRADA Made in Per u

A collection of alpaca wool knitwear using artisanal techniques from the most traditional workshops of the Peruvian “campesinos”.


lily&

LIONEL Lil y and Lionel’s designs celebrate the beauty of artisan craftsmanship, luxury of limited editions, and personalised objects, and a return to traditional techniques. All the accessories and fabrics are ethically and carefully sourced and produced using exclusive raw materials and quality processes. The head designer of the brand Alice Stone travels the world in search of authentic and individual creations, working with local producers and craftsmen to create the highest quality unique designs. Alice’s family heritage has been entwined in fashion for three generations - the original Lily and Lionel were, in fact, her grandparents.

Brand’s scarves are produced by traditional textile methods using handspun yarns, ensuring sustainable production and quality. New AW11 collection features a truly stunning range of scarves, from vibrant animal and floral prints to stunning cityscape images from some of the worlds most iconic urban capitals. As well as scarves, Alice has created a collection of leather and snake wrap bracelets, which are available in a multitude of colours.. Lily and Lionel is available from Matches, Anthropology and online.

www.lilyandlionel.com

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spotlight

blame it on the

SUNSHINE OLGA OLSSON by Laura Chatterton

Favoured by celebrities such as Kate Moss and Elle Macpherson, the sky is the limit for Olga Olsson.

Olga Olsson swimwear meets all our expectations, offering everything a decent bikini is meant to be and more: “special and magical in a way that no other item in your wardrobe is, as it’s linked to a really happy, memorable time”. When designing her exotic pieces, creative director Ruth Ferguson often has a particular woman in mind: “she’s curious about the world, not label conscious, loves quality, beautiful design, and travel”. Ferguson’s passion for nature and the environment shines through her designs in each collection, with the latest SS11 offering being inspired by the gorgeous beaches of Rio in the 1970s, “when freedom was expressed through beach life, clothes and relationships”. Ferguson’s favourite piece from her the collection is the Rose Rio bikini. “It’s a retro digital print of Ipanema Beach at sunset with wide tulle ribbon side ties; very flattering and an extremely chic look for the beach or pool”. Ruth suggests wearing it with a wide-brimmed hat and some bangles to add instant, relaxed glamour. Whilst more and more brands are beginning to jump on the ethical bandwagon, there is still much room for improvement, especially in the realm of swimwear.For the majority of designers there’s always the mindset of ‘how is it going to help if I make my small business ethical?’ Well, quite a lot according to Ruth. “Despite the extra effort, even small changes in the way you design and produce your collections can have a huge impact”. To make sustainability a success designers need to have limitless passion and determination to avoid slipping back into the easy

route of mass-production. “There are small things that can be done, like favouring digital prints over roller prints, reducing packaging, using recycled card price-tags and sourcing fabrics close to production sites – which can improve the carbon footprint of the product greatly. Also by ensuring that the people who make the products are paid fairly and work in good, safe conditions - by introducing codes of conduct and 50% down payments on orders - can really go a long way.” Swimwear is also particularly difficult to produce sustainably due to its purpose: the fabric must dry quickly and also last after use in chlorinated water, salt water and sunshine. Branching out from beachwear, Ruth is planning to introduce luggage, bags and beach-to-bar dresses into her forthcoming collections. “It’s still in the development stages for now, but I’m working with some leather-smiths in London to create organic leather accessories that have been vegetable tanned”. Well-travelled and passionate about beachwear, there’s no better person to ask for advice on looking good on the beach than Ruth. “Get a sugar scrub, and apply a good high SPF before arriving, wear a sun-hat and keep cool with regular dips in the sea or pool. Use bangles or long necklaces to accessorise your bikini and wear polarised shades that flatter your face shape”. Looking ahead, Ruth imagines who’s going to be wearing Olga Olsson in the future: “I would love to see Cameron Diaz, Angelina Jolie or Gwyneth Paltrow in one of my designs as they’re all big fans of ethical fashion”. www.olgaolsson.com

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Photographer Martin Zahringer Stylist Victoria Sekrier Make up Helena Lyons Hair Michael Jones Model Kirsi @ Union Photo assistant Liam Bundy Sunglasses vintage Dior

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FASHION editor’s notes

Victoria Sekrier in Teatum Jones AW11

I've never been to a festival.

I like the idea of it: to be out in the open air, bonding with your mates to the sound of your favourite band. But in reality we all know what it's really like - people rolling around in dirt while being obnoxiously wasted on a cocktail of intoxicants. It just wouldn't work for me. Not so much in terms of drug intake, but in terms of comfort - I like my toilet clean, my shower hot and my bed cozy. I don't do muddy fields. I won't do muddy fields. But that's just me and I know a lot of people who love it, so for those of you festival-goers here is my selection of what I think one should wear out in the fields and how to work it. Late 60's and early 70's is always a great reference when it comes to festival fashion. I personally love the 70's so much it hurts. It brings a nostalgic memory of my mother's hey-days reflected in old pictures of her being beautifully carefree. Achieving this is simple if you know where to look, i.e. pretty much any 70’s rock group.

Janice Joplin made round glasses and tousled messy hair her trademark, while you would hardly ever see Jimmy Hendrix without his Marching Band Jacket. For me it’s Led Zeppelin (I ran into Jimmy Page at a newsagent one day and was totally star-struck. Quite embarrassing.) Robert Plant is as infamous for his personal style as he is for his voice: boho kimono-cut blouses and inappropriately revealing bell trousers were his signature. Go heavy on accessories. Layer chains around your neck and pile on chunky rings and bracelets. Head scar ves are br illiant, you c an wrap them in different ways and it's great to h i d e 3 - d a y u n w a s h e d h a i r. Pr a c t i c a l i t y is also high on the agenda when it comes to Festivals. My inner mother is forcing itself out, “pack wellies and waxed jackets along side a cozy sweatshirt to layer over floral dresses,” she says. You never know what kind of unfor tunate sur pr ises to expect from English weather.


Maria Francesca Pepe

Bitching and Junkfood Pyrrha

Current Elliot

LuFlux

BexRox

Suno

Barbour Ilse Jacobsen Trippen

DanniJo


loves... tara St. James by Lucinda Borrell

Based in Brooklyn, New York, Tara St. James’

collections for her high-concept label Study put her at the forefront of the ethical fashion industry. Operating with a ‘no waste’ policy when it comes to pattern making, St. James’ work as a pioneer of ethical fashion extends far beyond her own label, seeing the designer take an active role in promoting the merits of ethical fashion amongst future design talent. In 2010 she founded Study Hall where she offers a platform come mentoring programme, helping undiscovered design talent launch mini ethical collections of their own. Having also recently become a head designer in The Uniform Project - a project that aims to use ethical and sustainable fashion to raise money for under-privileged children - St. James’ has many feathers to her ethical bow.

With designs reminiscent of the late 1960s bohochic trend, ironically St. James’ recent collection is inspired by restrictions. Utilising the finest in handdyed silks it’s hard not to fall in love with St. James’ designs: they are bold, but not overstated, oozing sophistication and confidence. St. James attributes this to her mother, whom she describes as a woman who “looked as though she was off the pages of a French magazine”. One piece for the Study SS11 collection that is particularly eye-catching is the Snap Shirt available at notjustalabel.com for £130. This shirt can be worn across all seasons, with trousers and a well-cut blazer in autumn and converted to a halter-neck top for the summer – making it a great investment piece. www.study-ny.com

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spotlight

john HARDY by Diana Bocco

Canadian-born John Hardy might be best known as a maker of luxury accessories and an authority on style, but there’s a lot more to Hardy’s eponymous brand than meets the eye. Launched over two decades ago in 1989, the company has aimed for uniqueness from the getgo, with creations exclusively made by hand at the company’s factory in Bali. With sterling silver playing a key role in most of the designs, each piece is perfectly complimented by diamonds, black sapphires or topaz, oozing elegance and luxury. With each piece created using traditional Balinese techniques such as jawan (granulation), and rantai (woven chain), each piece is guaranteed to be finished to perfection. From the outset, Hardy has always focused on making his brand as environmentally-friendly as possible. According to Damien Dernoncourt, the company’s CEO, their brand strategy has always been to promote the concept of ‘sustainable luxury’. This means incorporating traditional crafting methods into each design, whilst ensuring nobody and nothing is harmed in the production process. “ We are not good at compromising and we do everything wholeheartedly”, says Dernoncourt. “We are passionate about the artisanship [in our work], and hand-made arts in general. We care about the environment in which people live, whether our employees specifically or the communities that we each live within.”

John Hardy’s newest creation is the exotically titled ‘Bamboo Collection’, which is special in more ways than one. On top of the exquisite design and high-quality hand-crafted pieces, this range also sees a unique and somewhat unprecedented collaboration between the brand and John Hardy customers. For each piece sold, the company plants several bamboo seedlings in Bali in order to compensate for the resources used. “To date, the bamboo collection has seen over 600,000 bamboo seedlings planted in an approximate area of 1,500 hectares of land,” says Dernoncourt. “That is about 4.4 times the area of Central Park in Manhattan, New York.” John Hardy collections can be found at Harrods and Net-a-Porter in the UK and online.

www.johnhardy.com

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adolfo DOMINGUEZ

spotlight by Laura Edgecumbe

Not so long ago, on 26th March, for one hour,

the lights went out at global fashion brand Adolfo Dominguez’s stores around the world. This was not a technical hitch but a carefully planned exercise to save energy in support of the World Wildlife Fund’s (WWF), Earth Hour. For the immensely successful stock-listed brand which has a turnover of €175 million and more than 600 retail outlets globally, this was not just a token gesture, instead part of a much wider ethical mission that underpins the whole Adolfo Dominguez business. The firm’s environmental and animal welfare policies are some of the most progressive in the high-end fashion industry. The brand has been certified for its compliance with strict environmental standards and commitment to minimising pollution and energy use. Adolfo Dominguez will not use real fur or exotic skins such as crocodile, snake or ostrich in any of its collections; and will phase out leather use in its

clothing by 2012. The designer has joined the international campaign against ‘mulesing’ of sheep bred for wool, which involves the painful removal of skin from live often non-anaesthetised animals, in order to reduce the risk of infection. The brand also refuses to purchase down plucked from live birds. In order to promote ethical issues to the public, Adolfo Dominguez recently launched Green Week between 21-27 March earlier this year – holding events to highlight animal welfare, sustainability, climate change and organic food at its stores. The campaign involved big names such as The Climate Project, Green Peace and WWF. During Green Week, Adolfo Dominguez’s daughter Tiziana, passionate environmentalist, creative director and director of corporate social responsibility at the firm, launched the seriously stylish new women’s collection ‘Green Me’. With the tagline,

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‘I’m green and make me green’, all garments in the collection are made with sustainable fabrics - organic cotton, linen, hemp and recycled polyester. The line is cool and fresh, incorporating asymmetrical shapes and layering in grey, white, beige and forest green. Thankfully, the leaps Adolfo Dominguez is making in ethical fashion are not going unrecognised. Its Animal Welfare Policy has the support of the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA). And Adolfo Dominguez was a finalist in the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA) Good Business Awards 2010. High fashion and ethics are not usually good bedfellows, but Adolfo Dominquez appears to be taking the lead in changing this, while simultaneously achieving exponential growth and success. In the words of PETA Foundation’s director of special projects, Poorva Joshipura, “Adolfo Dominguez is a recognised leader in fashion, but now he is also a recognised leader in ending animal abuse in his industry. We applaud Adolfo Dominguez for making it clear that cruelty isn’t in fashion.”

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FASHION

tribes

Photography by Fiona Garden Styling by Tara Sugar

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Hair and Makeup OscarAlexander Lundberg Photography assistant Malcolm Campbell Styling Assistant Kaelin Lee

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Golden cape (to order) RACHEL FREIRE Black laser cut rubber necklace CAIPORA Green beaded necklace MYASHO B&W necklace PEBBLE Arm accessory CULIETTA All rings and gold bracelet CULIETTA Silver headpiece on forehead CULIETTA Crown PEBBLE Red skirt STILL Shoes S.D.YOHANS


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Headdress PEBBLE Jacket TOSHA Large round bead necklace PEBBLE Horn necklace Vintage-Stylists own Skirt STILL Boots T&F SLACK SHOEMAKERS Nepali handknit socks STILL B&W ring PEBBLE Bracelet MIA JEWEL


Dress EDUN Gold Earrings & Headdress, Red wooden necklace, and Pom pom bracelet PEBBLE Coral necklace Lalesso Nkundu, Print bangles and print beads ITUEN BASSI Shoes T&F SLACK SHOEMAKERS Gold collar, metal beads and metal bangles LIBELULLE Ring and round medallion pendants SARETTA

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Trousers and Ring Ada Zanditon Top Edun from Browns Focus Jacket Mishka vintage

Orange shorts ANUSHKA HOEVENER Nepali handmade socks STILL Jacket MARTINA SPETLOVA Multicoloured string scarf ANUSHKA HOEVENER Feather hat STILL Rings SARETTA Earring SARETTA Head string CULIETTA

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Black dress with Ray fringe RACHEL FREIRE Sleeveless dress on top EDUN Faux fur cape JAMES HOCK Laser cut headband Caipora Red wooden beads PEBBLE Gold leaf necklace Vintage STYLIST’S OWN Large gold bangle PEBBLE White beaded necklace worn as a bracelet BROKEN FAB Boots S.D. YOHANS

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Top MY ASHO, Headdress LA CAVE DU BON Beaded bag panel worn as loin cloth, Multicoloured beads around the hip and two b&w bangles PEBBLE Gold bangle LIBELULLE Black rubber laser cut bracelet CAIPORA Shoes T&F SLACK SHOEMAKERS Nepali Handknit socks STILL Meteorite bracelet SARETTA Round white bead necklace, metal round beads, and earrings PEBBLE

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Dress Camilla Wellton Headpiece Worn With Love

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Pink dress HENRIETTA LUDGATE Shoulder pads ANUSHKA HOEVENER Blue stone w/silver tortoises necklace LEI VAN KASH Long golden bead necklace PEBBLE Boots S.D. YOHANS Nepali handmade socks STILL B&W bangles, all PEBBLE Studded bangle JAMIE JEWELLERY Dress worn as a turban CHOOLIPS Accessory worn on top of the turban JAMES HOCK


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Multicolour necklace PEBBLE Metal and leather necklace JAMES HOCK Triangle bead necklace BROKEN FAB Skirt & Jacket STILL Red shorts DEPLOY Bikini top VINTAGE ROBERTO CAVALLI Rings PEBBLE Earrings SARETTA Bracelet CULIETTA


Earrings SARETTA Necklaces, both PEBBLE B&W beads on the waist PEBBLE Golden beads on the waist CAIPORA Skirt JAMES HOCK Top MARTINA SPETLOVA Nepali handmade socks STILL Shoes T&F SLACK SHOEMAKERS Red feather hair band STILL Coin bracelet LIBELULLE

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FASHION

hothouse flower Photography by Fiona Garden Styling by Victoria Sekrier

Make Up - Natalie Piacun Hair - Sharne Harrington Model- Lisa Akesson @ Union Models SIX 98


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Bikini Top by Suno, Top by Joie, Jumper MM6 by Margela at Urban Outfitters Earrings by Dominic Jones, Headpiece by Lara Jensen


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Bikini Top by Suno, Shirt by Raoul Shorts by Mink Pink, Necklace by BexRox Rings by House of Harlow, Dominique Lucas, Culieta, and Toujours Toi


Bikini by Suno, Necklace by Disaya Sunglasses at Urban Outfitters

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Dress by Staple Necklace and Bracelets by DanniJo Necklace (worn as a bracelet) by BexRox

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Dress by Peter Jensen at Urban Outfitters Bracelet (worn as necklace) by DanniJo


Bikini Top by Suno Dress by Wonhundred at Urban Outfitters Rings by Culietta and DanniJo Necklace (worn as a headpiece) by Dominique Lucas

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Bikini Top by Suno Dress by Joie Harness by Martina Spetlova Headpiece by Lara Jensen Bracelet by Disaya Ring by Dominic Lucas Ring by Daisy

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adorn

Body Noki Noir

light side //

Photographer: Fiona Garden Stylist: Victoria Sekrier Make Up: Natalie Piacun Hair: OscarAlexander Stylist’ s assistant: Ilishio Lovejoy Model: Jennifer @ Union

Necklace by James Hock, Suit by Whyred SIX 108


/ dark side

Glass ring by Culietta, bear earring and ring by Dominique Lucas. Net vest by Carin Wester, top by Evil Twin SIX 109


Headpiece by Lara Jensen, top by Evil Twin, bracelet as neckpiece by DanniJo, rings by Culietta, leggings by Carlotta Gherzo for Sado SIX 110


Necklace and body piece by Martina Spetlova, dress by Suno, bodysuit by Rachel Freire SIX 111


Necklace by BexRox, rings by House of Harlow & Culietta, top by Martina Spetlova, trousers by Whyred SIX 112


Top by Richard Nicoll, necklace and rings by Dominique Lucas SIX 113


S& E INVESTMENT

*

Michele Llanos, exo-luxe showroom owner and Fashion Director for an American eco fashion magazine, gives us a selection of timeless S&E pieces worth investing in.

*Sustainable& Ethical SIX 114

plan


Flavie and Clayton Webster are the brains and creative genius behind their store and brand,Cerre. Located in an old barber shop off Hollywood Blvd, California I stumbled upon Cerre a couple of years ago while working on a photo-shoot. I walked into Cerre and had to take a minute to take it all in: a small, gorgeous shop redone with reclaimed wood and antique fixtures, with an atelier in the back where they make and design their amazing wares. Along with a highly elegant, subtle and timeless leather collection, clothing and accessories, they also have a very tightly edited vintage collection, all displayed with a highly editorial aesthetic. Small production runs, locally made and vegetable tanned leather are just a few of their sustainable practices. They will launch their online shop this summer, but if in Los Angeles, a trip to this amazing store is definitely in order! *Athena Jacket, Italian lambskin with removable scarf $1725. Available in oyster/black at www.cerre. com

Belinda Pasqua, designer extra-ordinaire of the reclaimed leather line The Sway, is one of the coolest chicks around. We met at The Green Show a couple of years back: I walked past her stand and saw the most beautiful leather bags and jackets and had to stop and check them out. It turns out that all the leather is scrap leather, and Pasqua has the bags made in Pakistan, in a factory which enforces green manufacturing practices. So, not only is she keeping scrap leather out of landfills, she’s also employing people, aiding micro economies, and giving us amazing products. Win win, I say! *MARLO bag, $900.00 www.theswaynyc.com


s&e*

Norma Kamali

Lynn Christiansen

studied fine art sculpture at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, and here began her fascination with wearable art. No longer simple ornamentation, when combined on the human body, a living sculpture is created. Christiansen had the opportunity to create metal outfits for the school’s Fashion Show which led to collaborations with top fashion designer Jeremy Scott. During these collaborations Christiansen created pieces in materials from metal to plastic and had the opportunity to see them walk down the runways in New York and Russia. Christiansen’s work has also been in the World of Wearable Art Shows in New Zealand and several pieces have been acquired by the World of Wearable Art Museum itself. *Falling Leaves Necklace, silver, 23k gold bi metal $2,000.0 available at Velvet Da Vinci Gallery www.velvetdavinci.com www.lynnchristiansen.com

has always been ahead of her time. In the 1980s she used video to present her look books; in the 1990s she pioneered the use of the internet to promote her brand. Today Kamali embraces technology through her Facebook page, Twitter, and i-Phone App, and uses Skype to connect with her clients and stylists. She has always used sustainability practices, making ever y piece of her collection in the USA, and, here, with the parachute dress, re-working old militar y parachutes into a beautiful collection of dresses, tops and skirts. Knowing the importance of accessibility, Kamali uses WalMart and Ebay as collaborators in getting her brand to middle America. She also has a Wellness Café in her Manhattan flagship store and holds weekly events promoting her organic beauty products. The Norma Kamali brand is a beautiful example of longevity, creativity and democratization. Kamali is also daring in her designs - and her celebrity clientele, among which are Beyonce and Lady GaGa, loves her for it. *Empire Vest dress, $2,800.00 www.normakamalicollection.com

Christina Krämer In 2007, Christina Krämer Collection, a sustainable luxury brand

apecializing in knitwear, apparel and leather accessories for men and women, was born. Last year Krämer presented her SS11 collection at the GREENShowroom in Berlin at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, with key garments including organic silk blouses, 100% GOTS certified cotton jersey shirts and organic cotton satin dresses and trousers. I was especially attracted to this hand-crafted, hand-stitched, vegetable-tanned calf leather hat. All goods are hand-crafted in small ateliers in Switzerland and Italy and are made of fine, natural and organic materials, each vegetable tanned to perfection. *Leather Hat, 575.00 CHF www.ChristinaKraemer.com

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Karolina Zmariak

is a jewel in the NYC design landscape. Launched in 2009, this Fashion Institute of Technology graduate locally makes and produces her collections from inception (patternmaking and sampling) to finished product in NYC’s famed Garment Center. This allows Zmariak to forge relationships with all of her vendors , enabling her to produce products of only the highest quality. Zmariak’s hero is Cristobal Balenciaga (as evident in her designs, which are all based on form), and together with her technical and artistic execution she ends up with pieces that are strong, powerful and oh so wearable. Innovatively, Zmariak designs with the idea of convertible/reversible pieces, which give them a longer lifespan as well as a classic, timely essence. Zmariak’s impeccable construction and clean silhouettes make her one of my favorite sustainable luxury designers. I predict a very long and successful career for this Gen Art Styles winner, and am excited to see where she takes her gorgeous brand. *Printed Silk Gazar with Black Panel Drape - $1810 by request www.karolinazmarlak. com


Rachel Freire LONDON


beauty L

ost your glow? Check out the array of brilliant products and treatments that will help you restore a more YOUTHFUL, dewy look. It’s all about looking more LUMINOUS and getting skin that’s more refined, plumped up and healthy looking. I love products that help you get that RADIANCE that should only come after an hour of yoga, 8 hours of snooze time and 2 litres of water!

beauty editor’s notes by Georgie Wolfinden

The SKIN changer Arcona Youth serum

Best RADIANCE cream ila Rainforest Renew Day Cream

Cult natural beauty brand ila’s Rainforest Renew range contains powerful natural ingredients from the Amazon. The Rainforest Renew Day cream (RRP £45.00) is light, easily absorbed and works to replenish the complexion by improving microcirculation in skin cells, reducing in fla mma tion and strengthening collagen fibres. End result - skin feels soothed, looks radiant and rested. Radiance in a bottle achieved. www.ila-spa.com

A-list favourite ARCONA are brilliant at formulating products that are effective but also natural and cold pressed. This powerful anti-aging serum is one of the best repair products I have tried. It helps to prevent photo-aging, fine lines and loss of elasticity and repairs age-damaged skin. The end result is more luminous, firmer, younger-looking skin. And if you have been basking in the sun too long it also helps to combat the damaging effects of UVA/UVB rays and also helps to stimulate collagen and elastin growth. www.glowgetter.co.uk

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The CULT product Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel If you have acne prone skin but still need that calming moisture fix, try Jurlique Herbal Recovery gel. It won’t break you out but will deliver just the right amout of hydration you need while also giving you a glow. This concentrated light serum is packed with soothing plant extracts to restore, comfort and give the skin a youthful sheen without upsetting the skin’s delicate balance. End result - skin appears less red, hydrated and soothed. www.jurlique.co.uk

Treatment of the MONTH Skin MOT with Claudia Louch If your skin is not looking up to scratch then I would highly recommend a visit to the ‘natural’ dermatologist Claudia Louch. Her 1 hour consultation will give you a clear understanding of the condition of your skin and what it needs. She asks about lifestyle, diet and health niggles to get a true picture of why our skin looks, feels and acts the way it does. Claudia uses a variety of James Bondesque gadgets to analyse the surface of the skin and check other areas of the body, which might be the cause of some of our skin ailments. On leaving, I had a greater understanding of nutrition and the skin. I discovered that the skin on my face is severely damaged by all of those sun drenched summers. My body is way too alkaline (due to my over-zealous juicing) and I may be overdoing the supplements. You also get to ask all sorts of questions you had about your skin that few people could answer. www.phytoclinic.com SIX 121


beauty Natural no-fuss look is a hot ticket in town. Bring out the glow in your skin and BE YOU.

fresh faced PREP Oskia Get and Up and Glow energy serum, Aveda Inner Light tinted moisturiser SPF 15 in Beechwood SKIN Jane Iredale blusher in Tawny, Inika Light Reflecting Highlighting Creme EYES Couleur Caramel eyeshadow in Pure Vanilla, Matt Brown and Matt Intense Brown, Couleur Caramel mascara in black LIPS Korres Beige Pink Cherry lip gloss SIX 122


SKIN W3LL Narcissist stick foundation and concealer, W3LL People Realist HD Matte Mineral Setting Powder, Green People Pure Blush in Peach, rms living luminiser EYES Une Glimmer eyeshadow in G01, Sfumato eyeshadow in S01 and S07, Couleur Caramel liquid liner in black LIPS Bare Minerals Glazed Donut lip gloss PHOTOGRAPHER Billie Scheepers HAIR AND MAKEUP James Molloy MODEL Charlotte @Union

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W3LL Narcissist stick foundation and concealer, W3LL People Realist HD Matte Mineral Setting Powder, Nvey Eco 954 blusher, rms living luminiser EYES Jane Iredale Circle/Delete Under Eye Concealer, Jane Iredale Bitty Brow kit, The Organic Pharmacy Nude Palette for base colour, Une Skin Glow pencil in G02 for inner line, Jane Iredale Purelash extender and conditioner, Lavera Double black Mascara LIPS Terre d’Oc 205 Maroon Dakhla, Elysambre in Plum Purple for top coat SIX 124


beauty

SKIN W3LL Narcissist stick foundation and concealer, W3LL People Realist HD Matte Mineral Setting Powder, Nvey Eco 954 blusher, rms living luminiser EYES Jane Iredale Circle/Delete Under Eye Concealer, Jane Iredale Bitty Brow kit, The Organic Pharmacy Nude Palette for base colour, Une Skin Glow pencil in G02 for inner line, Jane Iredale Purelash extender and conditioner, Lavera Double black Mascara LIPS Lavera in 04 Deep Red SIX 125


beauty

SKIN Inika cream foundation in Strength, Inika mineral powder in Unity, Nvey Eco 954 blusher, rms living luminiser EYES Jane Iredale Circle/Delete Under Eye Concealer, Jane Iredale Bitty Brow kit, Lavera Natural Soft Eyeliner in Black, Bare Escentuals bareMinerals Drama Glimmer Eye Shadow, Jane Iredale Purelash extender and conditioner, Lavera Double black Mascara LIPS Jane Iredale gloss in Hazelnut SIX 126


W3LL Narcissist stick foundation and concealer, W3LL People Realist HD Matte Mineral Setting Powder, Nvey Eco 954 blusher, rms living luminiser EYES Jane Iredale Circle/Delete Under Eye Concealer, Jane Iredale Bitty Brow kit, The Organic Pharmacy Nude Palette for base colour, Une Skin Glow pencil in G02 for inner line, Jane Iredale Purelash extender and conditioner, Lavera Double black Mascara LIPS Une sheer lips gloss S15

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beauty

THE GOODNESS of bees The plight of the humble honey bee has been causing a buzz in the news. Its decline, seemingly due to disease and pesticides, has got us worried, but have you wondered why? by Rebecca Oliver

Bees have so much to offer, in terms of what

they do for the environment and what they produce. Without these creatures we would be in a sticky situation.The ecological worth of bees comes down to one thing: pollination. They are responsible for pollinating about a third of our food, which includes tea and cattle crops, in addition to fruit and vegetables, making them a very important part of the food chain – and key to our agricultural industry. But it’s not just crops: bees pollinate our trees and wildflowers too. Einstein is said to have warned us “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” Yikes!

is valued for its colour, fragrance, and how it benefits the skin too. The wax acts as a seal, which makes it perfect for retaining moisture wherever it is applied; making it an ideal ingredient in balms and salves. Royal jelly is a little more mysterious. It’s certainly a nourishing substance, packed with complex B vitamins, vitamin C and folic acid. In the hive queen bees are fed solely on the stuff, and live up to 40 times longer than other bees. The jelly is not only revitalising, but has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits, whilst being a great source of protein. It can boost the immune system and promote cell regeneration too. Fantastic for hair, skin and general health.

Honey is an excellent antibacterial and has been used for centuries to aid the healing process. It’s also great at preventing the skin from drying out, so it can keep you looking youthful. Beeswax

The beauty industry is no stranger to the goodness of bees. Plenty of eco-savvy brands are making use of honey, beeswax and royal jelly so we can reap the benefits, but which products are the bees’ knees?

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Melvita, France’s biggest organic beauty brand, stocks a whole host of fabulous items created with a little help from the bees. They harness the power of royal jelly with their Apicosma Moisturizing range. Apicosma Cream (£18 for 50ml), works wonders for dry skin, and their beeswax Protective Lip Balm (£6 for 4.5ml), keeps lips kissable and honey sweet. Melvita truly are batty about bees; April was Earth Month and to celebrate, they had two hives installed on the rooftop of their London flagship store in Covent Garden. www.bombcosmetics.co.uk www.burtsbees.co.uk www.lush.co.uk www.uk.melvita.com Melvita’s new store in Putney is now open.

Burt’s Bees have their own queen bee credentials too. Their Banana and Beeswax Hand Creme (£9.99 for 57g), is nourishing and softening for the skin. Lush’s good enough to eat Honey I Washed the Kids soap (£3.10 for 100g), contains both honey and beeswax. Its delicious vanilla toffee fragrance is irresistible. Or for a bath time treat for the skin, why not grab a Goodnight Honey Bath Blaster (£2.29 for 160g), from Bomb Cosmetics. Life is sweet.

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beauty

CLEAN UP your MAKEup How about a makeup bag e c o - o v e r h a u l ? Lipsticks filled with lead, synthetic dyes in your blusher or a foundation full of parabens – on closer inspection, our make-up can be full of nasty surprises that can be detrimental to our health. So much so, that make-up artist Rose-Marie Swift decided to create www. beautytruth.net, which lists all of the commonly found toxic ingredients in cosmetics that should be avoided like the plague. To help you get started, SIX counts down top summer make-up picks from the greener end of the market.

<Inika Light Reflect Highlighting Crème satiny texture melts into the skin and

creates a gorgeous shimmer. It also has a reassuringly short ingredients list. It is chemical free, suitable for vegetarians and made using recyclable packaging. It’s even certified Halal.

<When it comes to make-

up filled with synthetic ‘nasties’, nail varnish is definitely one of the worst offenders. The Nail Girls London range is free from most chemicals commonly found in varnish (namely toluene, camphor, formaldehyde and dibutyl phthalate) and their Pink#20 shade colours nails in a vivid fuchsia is the perfect accessory for bronzed skin and bright bikinis.

by Viola Levy SIX 130


<RMS Beauty’s Mineral Cream Eyeshadow in

Lunar. Made from raw minerals and natural preservatives, and packed with Vitamin E and cocoa butter, its oil-free texture blends beautifully and also works as an eye cream, caring for the delicate skin around the eye area.

<A lipstick that’s so natural it’s technically edible, Nvey Eco is not only 95% organic, but has also scooped a Green Beauty Bible Award for its eco credentials. Its rich, chemical-free formulation is made from anti-bacterial beeswax and castor oil, and creates a vivid colour that stays put and leaves lips super soft. Its iconic scarlet shade Real Red Shine is perfect for creating a strong statement lip – one of this season’s biggest beauty trends.

^Swap your foundation for a tinted moisturiser such as Omorovicsa’s

Complexion Enhancer SPF15,

^Alva COULEUR Baked Rouge blusher

is both Vegan and PETA approved, talc and chemical free, and is full of skin-loving nutrients such as olive squalene, macadamia oil and evening primrose oil. Shiny Pink is their most popular shade, which colours cheeks in the prettiest peony, reminiscent of the youthful flushed faces that were all over the SS11 catwalks. SIX 131

which is made from natural minerals derived from Hungarian thermal waters. Blending-in seamlessly, it protects against UV rays using natural zinc oxide, and also contains ruby crystal used to diffuse light, resulting in a flawless matte complexion with a subtle tint. Its luxurious texture, natural ingredients and extraordinary coverage make it a great beauty investment.


beauty

SOME like itHOT Starting with a quick spritz of the first thing you can lay your hands on, you proceed to blast your hair with the hair dryer and other heat-styling paraphernalia, such as tongs and straightening irons in a poor attempt to convert withering, post-holiday locks into the flowing Middleton mane. After the usual holiday hair neglect and the far too frequent temptation to achieve a quick fix through heat-styling, it’s no wonder your once lustrous hair is beginning to look more like a bale of hay. It’s time to find the proverbial organic needle to kiss that haystack back to life. Here are a few magic potions to keep your tresses from becoming messes this summer.

by Jess Latapie

Back to your roots

^It stands to reason that if your scalp is unhealthy your hair won’t get the nutrients it needs from the beginning of its growth. It’s as simple as that. John Masters Organics have formulated a Deep Scalp Follicle Treatment (£21), using a combination of 19 certified organic herbs and essential oils, to promote nutrient intake, stimulate circulation and balance sebum production to ensure that your hair grows through fighting fit with added volume and shine. Simply spray on to the scalp after every wash and dry hair as normal.

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Rehydrate

If you simply cannot bear to part with your favourite shampoo, then coconut oil might just be your saviour. For those scientific brains out there, coconut oil has a small molecular structure made up of medium chain triglycerides (MCTs) – but what does this mean to the rest of us? Simply put, coconut oil has the ability, unlike many chemical-laden hair products, to penetrate the hair follicles with the moisture they need to restore protein lost from washing.

^Viridian’s Virgin Organic Coconut Oil (£14), is hand-made in the Philippines using only the finest coconuts and the most fine-tuned processes to ensure absolute purity. To give hair an extra boost, gently warm the coconut oil (placing it in a bowl over warm water), and massage into the hair and scalp. Leave for two hours for normal to dry hair, or as an overnight treatment for extremely dry and damaged hair. If that isn’t enough, you can also use this delicious product on your skin as well as in your cooking to treat yourself from within!

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Protect

< W h i l e i n t h e s u n, we al l u n de r s t a n d t h e i m p o r t a n c e of protecting our skin from UV damage, but we often forget to protect our hair alongside the sun-screen application ritual. Sunscreen for the skin is just as effective and protective for the hair with J o h n

Masters Organics Natural Mineral S u n s c r e e n (£28.50),

available in spray form, making it easy to apply to the body and hair before you venture out.

On-the-go

<Ok, so we haven’t all got time to sit and wait for two hours while a ‘miracle’ hair product works its magic, but that doesn’t mean you have to brave the world resembling a scare-crow. Lavera Rose

Cleanse

^Getting the right shampoo for dry and sun-damaged hair is vital. While you need to ensure the hair is clean for it to be able to absorb nourishing products, some shampoos can be too harsh and cause a loss in the hair’s natural protein.

Milk Repairing Care Treatment (£8.45), offers

Mádara Nourish and Repair Shampoo

(£10.50), is the perfect solution for this very problem as it works gently to cleanse the hair from the everyday build up of toxins, while assisting to fight fatigue and prevent split ends.

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intensive nourishment for stressed out hair, only taking a maximum of 10 minutes out of your busy schedule. Enriched with organic jojoba oil and rose blossom, this fantastic treatment is chemical-free and can be applied once a week or more, while you’re catching up on your emails, finishing your make-up or simply reading the newspaper of a Sunday afternoon. Simply rinse and dry hair after use.


SOME like itHOT

Repair

<While we sometimes take precautions, we’re each only human. We forget, we run out of time and sometimes, we just can’t be bothered with the hassle. It’s often realising the after-effects of this that kicks us into action and we look to repair the damage. With ingredients especially imported from Chile, Organic Pharmacy’s

Virgin Cold Pressed Rose Hip Seed Serum (£22.50) is a repair

phenomenon. Not only does it promise to repair, its added bonus lies in the organic rosehip ingredient best-known for its ability to reverse sun damage and premature aging. Simply massage into hair after washing and style as normal – what’s more, you only need two drops at a time and it can also be used on your skin, so it really is worth every penny! SIX 135


Vanity Case Sound investment

Rather than spending a small fortune on so-called ‘miracle’ creams later in life, the best way to prevent the ageing effects of sun exposure is to make sure the moisturiser you currently use comes with added SPF. Antipodes Immortal Performance Plus Daily Moisturiser With Natural SPF15 protects against the sun using natural raspberry oil, and also contains hyaluronic acid to help the skin retain moisture, whilst Vinanza grape and kiwi work to prevent a heat-flushed face. www.antipodesnature.com

Après sun

On the rare occasions when you fail to apply your sun-block thoroughly (tsk!), Spiezia’s After Sun Body Oil can pacify those raging burnt patches. Handmade in Cornwall, England, its 100% organic ingredients include sesame and olive oils; which work to quench thirsty skin, together with St John’s wort and camomile oil to soothe and calm. Packaged in a pretty topaz, bottle this product will make a charming addition to any bathroom cabinet! www.spieziaorganics.com

No more hair scares

When the sun’s at its peak, your first thought is to protect your skin – and rightly so. However, those dastardly rays can wreak just as much havoc on your hair, leaving it frazzled, brittle and susceptible to free-radical damage. Aveda’s Suncare Protective Veil boasts naturally-derived UVA/ UVB inhibitors commonly found in wintergreen and cinnamon bark oils, which combined with green tea extract, organic sunflower seed oil and coconut oil will ensure your locks stay healthy and hydrated.

Call for back-up

www.aveda.co.uk

www.viridian-nutrition.com

When out in the sun, your skin obviously needs all the help it can get; an added boost (but certainly not a replacement) to your sunscreen is Viridian SPF Skin Pro Factors Capsules. Suitable for vegans, these additive and preservative-free food supplements contain cantaloupe melon extract: SOD (Super Oxide Dismutase), which together with beta-carotene and grape seed extract create a powerful cocktail of antioxidants to help cells fight free radicals (unstable molecules that attack healthy tissue), caused by UV rays. SIX 136


Balm de luxe Cosmetics junkies are sure to find By Terry’s best-selling Baume de Rose the beauty equivalent of a Rolex watch. With SPF15 to shield lips from the sun’s harsh rays, it’s also packed with essential rose wax, pastel oil and shea butter providing a texture that’s pure heaven. Plus, its luxurious rose scent will have you whipping the jar out every five minutes for a quick hit. www.spacenk.co.uk

Body armour from Oz Living in the land of perpetual sunshine and surf, it’s safe to say Australians know their onions when it comes to sun care. So when, in their droves, our Antipodean cousins start slathering on Invisible Zinc Face and Body Sunscreen SPF30, it’s worth heeding their example. Using natural zinc oxide, this highly popular cream protects against UVB and ageing UVA rays – as opposed to chemical sun-blocks which only guard against the former. It’s also devoid of parabens and pore-clogging mineral oil, making it a safer bet all round. www.cultbeauty.co.uk

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beauty

SIX HOT hair TIPS

by Gina Conway of Gina Conway Aveda Salons and Spas

1. Wear a HAT! Keeping the sun off your

hair is the best protection. The sun fades colour and damages hair dramatically.

2. When swimming in a POOL, wet

hair first and then put in a deep penetrating conditioning treatment. Put under a cap for best protection or in a bun. Then shampoo after this. Some shampoos clean the chlorine out without stripping colour (try Aveda’s suncare range). Repeat process for every swimming day at the pool.

3. Hair colour faded after your holiday?

5.

Make sure you are using a deep CONDITIONING treatment before and after your holidays. Protect your hair using a moisturizing treatment weekly through the summer months.

6. Don’t forget about your SKIN. Using

a tinted moisturizer with SPF 15 helps your skin to breath and look natural in summer without a heavy makeup finish and protects your skin from the daily sun exposure. Note: use a higher SPF when sunbathing for maximum protection.

Use a protective VEIL to keep sun from damaging hair and colour oxidization. Try Aveda’s light, non greasy waterproof spray. It leaves a protective veil on the hair to shield from the elements. Added benefits of organic shea butter, palm oils and coconut add shine and detangle for picture perfect holiday hair from day to evening.

4. BRAID your hair for easy stylish and

beach perfect hair. You wont have to worry about it looking a mess when getting out of the water and will help to protect hair from the sun. Summer hair advice and much more is available at Gina Conway Salons and Spas. We have professional advisers to help each guest make intelligent choices about their beauty regime. We don’t “sell” products. We solve problems and help give solutions to all hair, beauty, body questions. www.ginaconway.co.uk SIX 138


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EXPLORE

SLEEP INSIDE the ART The pink door on the grand old Regency Square

is the first clue that Artist Residence is something different. The independent Brighton hotel and artist residency is home to installations from a wide variety of Brighton-based and international artists, as well as to a quiet but sincere ethical philosophy. Founded by Justin Salisbury at just 22, when the Regency townhouse fell to him through family circumstance, Artist Residence has evolved into a community-minded, ethically aspirational Brighton institution - a departure certainly from the chintz and net curtains of the seaside rooming house of old. Each room at the Artist Residence has been decorated by a different artist; styles range from chaotic portrait assemblies in riotous colour, to peaceful seascapes reflecting the pallette of the sea and of the sky above the old pier, both visible from the hotel windows. There are other subtle differences to be found at Artist Residence - ethical touches that reflect an effort to bring sustainablity to hospitality. Ever y morning, a recycled breakfast bag is delivered; it is of impeccably cool design and features locally sourced, fresh juices, yogurts, pastries and jams. All fruits are seasonal, the containers which we are used to seeing in plastic, are of a corn-based, compostable composition, and all packaging comes with subtle, cool entreaties to reuse.

artist residence brighton As a part of Artist Residenceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commitment to community-based art initiatives, the hotel offers a residency program in which, every one to two months, a new artist takes up rent-free residence in the on-site studio, and produces work which will then be on display and for sale, commission-free, during the residence of the following artist. Through August 2011, the Artist in Residence will be Fox Fisher, a lofi illistrative paste-up artist. Within a minuteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s walk from B r i g h t o nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s f a m o u s s h o r e , Artist Residence offers a taste of the quirky, unique Brighton flavour. With North Laine only a 10-minute stroll up the hill, visitors are moments away from street after street of independently owned, internationally sourced shops, full of everything from musical instruments to handmade furniture; from piercing and tattoo studios to the best Eggs Benedict on the south coast at Mange Tout on Trafalgar Street. An after-brunch stroll can take you to the bizarre and exquisite Royal Pavilion - a Regency palace nestled in fragrant gardens, both anachronistic and somehow just so perfect for Brighton. Weird and wonderful, Artist Residence is certainly a jewel in the English effort to bring sustainable, supportive ethics to the UK boutique hospitality scene. www.artistresidence.co.uk

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www.erintempleton.com


www.komodo.co.uk

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HEALTH

URBAN detox Imagine this: a luxurious week-long retreat in a beach cabina on a dessert island where you will be cleansing your mind and body, both inside and out. The fruit juices and fresh foods are heavenly and greatly detoxifying and the body treatments are divine. No i-Phone, no deadlines and no obligations. Sounds wonderful right? Well, for those who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite have the resources or time to travel, there is an alternative option, currently garnering many a column inch: the urban detox. Better yet, why not create your own little sanctuary at home by taking the phone off the hook and for one day per month focusing on you instead of your career, friends or family? by Kyra de Vreeze

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HEALTH

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B

efore getting into the nittygritty and explaining how to achieve the ultimate detox at home, let’s go back to basics and explain what the word ‘detox’ actually means, as over the past few years it’s been the go-to word to describe something that isn’t always as good for you as brands and opinionmakers would have you believe. Detox is another word for cleanse. Meaning that for a set period of time, the person completing said detox will simplify their life, unwind and recharge, rebooting their system and banishing all of their unhealthy lifestyle patterns. Detoxifying also involves choosing healthy and cleansing foods that give the body a good rinse, but a really successful detox involves much more than just this! Whilst not nearly as picturesque, the urban home detox may bring something the secluded retreat might not offer: the ability to integrate the holy grail of peace and clarity into everyday life from the outset. Detox is not just about fleeing the frantic flock; instead finding the eye of the tornado and taking comfort in that peaceful spot in the midst of the action. After a good detox you will be able to experience a sense of calm everyday, no matter what the circumstances.

//unwind and

r e c h a r g e / / reboot your system // banish unhealthy patterns dispose of it. However, when the amount of stress in the body rises (perhaps due to chronic stress at work or home and ‘bad’ eating habits), acids will be stored in harmless places such as fat and muscle tissue. Digestive problems, bloating, cramps, fatigue, headaches, muscle soreness and patchy skin are some of the symptoms commonly attributed to stress. Eating pure and cleansing foods (and reducing your stress level!), will see you lose stored toxins, therefore enhancing your general health and vitality. The good thing about a detox is that you don’t have to starve yourself ! You can have millet SIX 147

porridge with almond milk, apricots, vanilla and orange zest for breakfast; a mango smoothie to snack on and a zucchini soup with sprout and avocado salad for dinner. Alternatively, indulge your taste-buds by making more adventurous dishes such as Indian eggplant and pea curry with whole-wheat flatbread – best served homemade of course. Just one day per month of simplifying life will assist you in creating an overall happier, healthier and balanced lifestyle. Offering no extremes and no quick fixes, this is an achievable commitment to lasting life quality and longevity.

detox

Many of us live hectic lifestyles which generate a fair bit of stress. In terms of the human body, more often than not stress translates into acid, with the body ordinarily being equipped to break it down and readily

simplify your life


HEALTH

first DETOX BEFORE you start:

-Detox only when you’re truly COMMITTED -Create a do-able PLAN. Sky-high goals will be difficult to accomplish and you’ll be more likely to feel disappointed upon ‘failing’, most likely resulting in you throwing in the whole detox towel. -Be sure to choose a DAY with no appointments or obligations. -Do things SLOWLY, gradually and think them through.

Detox-day LIFESTYLE tips: -Wake-up to NATURE, the sound of birds and beams of sunlight where possible, no alarm clock needed. -Sit down and ENJOY focusing on your meal whilst eating. -Add a media detox into your plan: CUT BACK on TV, magazines and newspapers. -Do things that are PEACEFUL and that you normally don’t have time for, such as organising your cupboards or wardrobe, which will no doubt help tidy your thoughts. -Go to the sauna and get a MASSAGE to promote relaxation and cleansing. -Take all the time in the world to prepare a gorgeousHOME-MADE dinner. A meal cooked with care and attention to detail is much more yummy and well appreciated! -Read somethingPOSITIVE and affirmative before you go to bed. It will surely make for a good start to your dreams.

Foods to put ON HOLD -All animal derived foods such as meat, fish, dairy and eggs.

-All prefab foods such as sodas, sauces, cookies and takeaways. -Alcohol, coffee and black tea. -Salt and products that contain it. -Sugar, sweeteners and products that contain them. -Yeast.

Foods to ENJOY:

detox

-Fresh fruits and vegetables (also dried fruits, juices and smoothies). -Herbs and spices such as cumin, garam masala, basil, cinnamon and vanilla. -Seaweeds, miso, tamari and other fermented soy products. -Small amounts of whole grains such as millet, quinoa and brown rice. -Small amounts of pulses such as chickpeas and lentils. -Small amounts of almond, oats, rice and soymilk. Photographs courtesy Daytox by www.sarahjane.nl and www.kyradevreeze.nl

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Learn more about detox and cleansing recipes: Cleanse and Purify Thyself – Richard Anderson – www.cleanse.net Tao of Detox – Daniel Reid - www.danreid.org Joshi’s Holistic Life Plan - www.joshiclinic.co.uk Daytox – Kyra de Vreeze - www.kyradevreeze.nl/blog SIX 149


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FLUID body

Fluid Body™ is a unique tension release class

based on a range of movements from Eastern and Western body-mind traditions, inspired by yoga, chi-gong, dance and other postural/energetic movement disciplines. In fact, this cutting-edge training focuses on sensing and feeling the body and it’s movements from the core, with guided imagery. For instance, I might be asked to visualize breathing as an ocean wave, letting it travel through the body, releasing tensions and energizing the whole self. The movements, accompanied by inspiring sounds and music, are gentle and inventive, the body learns to unlock and let go; improving posture, awareness and flexibility. It is the perfect way to awaken the connection between the mind, body and spirit. Students leave calm, refreshed, toned, stretched and centered. This method is recognised for calming the mind and can be practiced safely by everyone. A Fluid Body Session is one hour of calm energy lines stretching and strengthening, which includes approximately 15 minutes of consultation for the one to one class. These deeply relaxing sessions are beneficial for releasing chronic pains, stress, anxiety and are open to anyone wishing to feel great and revitalised after a hard day of work, sports training or travelling. Beneficial to anyone, this practice enhances self-body awareness and therefore maximises the body’s own healing powers. Fluid Body sessions can help release stress-related

symptoms, and chronic pains such as back pain by releasing tensions in the body with easy exercises that can be conducted at home without supervision. The movements practiced use our own body weight, the gravity and momentum within a core base, which make them very safe. Subtle micro-movements are generated through visualisation and breathing techniques, which by directing our attention to what is happening within our body, help refine our body’s posture and awareness. Our movements become more graceful, fluid and efficient with an improved joint range of motion,muscle tone and co-ordination. Regular practice of Fluid Body sessions re-energise your body and mind. Your stress is stretched away, tensions are released and whilst focusing inwards, you improve your mood, reduce anxiety and help to relieve depression symptoms. This practice demonstrates its efficiency in improving concentration, attention and self acceptance in and out of the session. This whole body-mind conditioning is a promise to broaden the realms of our perceptions, and open ourselves to transformation. This class welcomes beginners, as well as physical artists. For best results, regular attendance is encouraged. Personal training sessions tailored to your specific needs and times, are also available. www.fluidbody.tv

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fashion COMPASSION

Luxury With a Purpose Fashion ComPassion is an ethical fashion house that represents socially responsible luxury brands within the UK, forming a unique online business that provides a platform for skilled and creative women artisans. Founded in November 2010, Fashion ComPassion is the brainchild of Ayesha Mustafa, who combined her two biggest passions in life; fashion and philanthropy: “my vision is to create a ‘socially responsible label’ that reinvests the way fashion is viewed and contributes positively to society”, says Mustafa. Fashion ComPassion work with social enterprises from the developing Middle East, Asia and Africa regions who contribute towards developing communities, empowering women and alleviating poverty. Our current brands include Palestyle; a socially responsible brand that works with Palestinian Refugee Women and Beshtar; a social enterprise from Afghanistan that is contributing to rebuilding the lives of the people through the brand. “We have revamped the company recently”, says Mustafa. “By adding cutting-edge brands like Bhalo; a fair-trade design label

that works with disadvantaged women in rural Bangladesh and Himane; an ecofriendly brand that up-cycles umbrellas and waste material into desirable and high-end fashion, Fashion ComPassion is growing rapidly with more fashion brands and organizations getting in touch and wanting to collaborate. We’re also seeing an increase in sales and heighted interest from press and media.” Fashion ComPassion’s collection is exquisite and a work of art, and as each product is hand- made, it takes a few weeks to create every item. “We are working hard to design our new website that will have an online shop, and will ultimately make things easier for our customers.” Mustafa says; “My dream is to make women all over the world feel empowered, valued and as contributing citizens of society. I want Fashion ComPassion to be a one-stop shop for highend ethical fashion. A bit like Browns, with the focus on giving back”.

www.fashioncompassion.co.uk

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WARDROBE mistress Wardrobe Mistress is the revolutionary new online luxury fashion destination offering a total wardrobe management service. With a strong emphasis in fashion karma and recycling your designer fashion, this onestop site offers a range of services to help maintain your wardrobe and your style. It enables the ‘obsessed-with-luxury-fashion’ side in all of us to sell our designer pieces and buy new ones at affordable prices, whilst indulging in ‘money can’t buy’ expert advice. Wardrobe Mistress’ fashion mantra is: Fashion Must Go On. Led by a team of fashion experts and founded by Francesca Salih, formerly a stylist at NET-A-PORTER, the Wardrobe Mistress customer service is two-fold. Online buying and selling - style-savvy customers can buy and sell designer pieces online, hassle and stress free. A Wardrobe Mistress advisor will set it all up for you from start to finish. Born out of the philosophy and understanding of sharing and recycling your never-to-be-worn again designer pieces, Wardrobe Mistress is the only one-stop online destination where you can find that special luxury item with the help of experts and enjoy a spot of guilt-free retail therapy. Some of the designer names on sale are; Chanel, Hermés, Diane Von Furstenberg, Alexander McQueen, Carolina Herrera, YSL, Lara Bohnic, Max Mara, Christian Dior, Versace,

Philip Treacy, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney. Customers are able to indulge in a range of personalised services including, Wardrobe Management and Detoxing, Personal Styling and Personal Shopping. Wardrobe Mistress experts offer a one-on-one consultation at your home to discuss and identify all your needs. Francesca Salih, Wardrobe Mistress founder says: “Fashion, now more than ever, evolves and moves on quickly. I wanted to provide a full service all under one roof. Stress-free and hassle-free, we literally take care of everything from start to finish, bringing the fun back into your wardrobe. You no longer need to feel fed-up with your clothes, knowing you have a place you can call to move it on. Fashion trends are forever changing and keeping up with the latest fashion-fads can be a full time job! Hence I wanted to create a service where we take the stress out of creating more space in your wardrobes.” Wardrobe Mistress offers its customers a calendar of shopping events such as a ‘Chanel day’, ‘accessory week’ and ‘luxury buy of the day’. In addition sellers are able to share the story behind their on-sale items and give some fashion karma back. Wardrobe Mistress supports Breast Cancer Campaign. www.wardrobemistress.co.uk

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THANK you! Having arrived at our second issue, we would like to thank all our sponsors and supporters who believed in us before we launched and supported us at our fabulous event with their incredible services and products. The night took place at the second largest botanic garden conservatory in Britain, which is located in the very centre of the Barbican in London. Together with the chirping of the multi-coloured parrots and splashing huge carp in the ponds, we were showered with the wonderful sounds of live music, viola, bass and Cuban brush drumming.We are very grateful to all of the musicians who took part - Loud Like A Lion, Double Bass Dan, Shlomy Dobrinsky (violin), Kay Elizabeth, Peter Latta on Didgeridoo, and Marmaduke Dando. Special thank you goes out to Gina Conway Aveda Salons and Spas for an incredible massage booth they organised right in the heart of the topical garden of the Barbicanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Conservatory room. We would also like to thank Divine for injecting huge amounts of fun into the night with their naughty Chocolate Confessions photo booth. And finally, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to say thank you to Henrietta Ludgate, who put on the most incredible catwalk show for the guests showcasing her AW11 designs (and the models who took part). Afterwards, the guests were driven to the after party in Green Tomato cars, and the fun carried on into the night at the Whisky Mist club.

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EFF source

The Global Platform for Sustainable Fashion by Rachael Oku The Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF), the industry body for sustainable fashion, has recently launched the Ethical Fashion SOURCE: a groundbreaking international platform for sustainability in the fashion sector. Bringing together in one place an industry database, an online magazine, and the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first ethical fashion sourcing trade show, SOURCE aims to save fashion professionals time and money whilst integrating sustainability at the heart of what they do. SOURCE aims to do three things: make it easier for fashion businesses to work sustainably, make it easier for consumers and buyers to buy from sustainable businesses, and link fair-trade and ethical suppliers to market. Its goal is to support a major shift in the fashion sector towards social and environmental sustainability - to transform livelihoods for 2.5 million people in the developing world within five years, and to radically reduce the environmental impact of the fashion sector. The initiative has been developed in consultation with the Fairtrade Foundation, World Fair Trade Organisation, and Textile Exchange, and aims to promote the work of these and other organisations working to improve standards in the fashion sector. SOURCE is comprised of three components: - The SOURCE Directory. The go-to destination to find businesses and initiatives that are pioneering in sustainable fashion. Incorporating

10 sub-directories, the directory is a one-stop shop for fashion professionals, consumers, buyers, press and researchers to find leading ethical designers and brands, shops and buyers of ethical products, experts, and ethical suppliers and manufacturers. - SOURCE Magazine: represents the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading source of sustainable fashion business intelligence, from brand leaders to pioneering suppliers, what buyers are buying and why, and market and supply chain developments. Content is organized in four sections: Business Focus, Market and Sales Watch, Supply Focus, and Expert Analysis. The magazine puts the spotlight on the fashion sector businesses which are combining commercial success with high ethical standards, then evaluates this success so that other professionals can learn from it and follow suit. SOURCE Expo, now in its third season, is the only international fashion industry trade show dedicated to ethical sourcing. Taking place later this year from 17-18th October at the stunning Sadlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wells in central London, the show will bring together more international manufacturers and suppliers working to fairtrade and ethical standards than ever before. The event includes a programme of seminars, introducing new products and exemplary supply and production systems. The Designer Pavilion at SOURCE Expo will once again bring together the very best designers pioneering in sustainable sourcing alongside outstanding design.

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Access to full content in the SOURCE Magazine and Directory, or the opportunity to be listed on the Directory, is through membership of the Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF). As a not-for-profit organization, all membership fees are dedicated to the EFF’s core goal of increasing sustainability in the fashion sector. A sliding members fee scale is designed to allow EFF to subsidise access to information and promotion for small and fair trade suppliers that are changing lives in some of the world’s poorest communities. The EFF’s founder Tamsin Lejeune, who has spearheaded the development of the platform says: “SOURCE builds on five years of work by the Ethical Fashion Forum with fashion businesses. We hope that this platform will accelerate the success of pioneering businesses, make sustainability achievable across the fashion sector and increase transparency for the consumer. We are delighted to be working in partnership with the Fairtrade Foundation, World Fair Trade Organisation, MADE-BY and many others, to develop this tool, which will act as a catalyst for the sustainable fashion movement and transform lives for potentially millions of people in fashion industry supply chains.”

www.ethicalfashionforum.com/source

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