Travel
Unwind on a Greek isle Eytan Uliel picks out some of the best islands in the Mediterranean
F
or those coming to Posidonia, take a few days off pre- or post-show to see some of the Mediterranean’s greatest sights. For those with just a couple of days to spare, navigate your way to the Saronic Islands in the Aegean Sea (37 nautical miles from Athens so a comfortable day’s sail; under three hours if you choose to go by daily ferry or hydrofoil). First stop: Hydra Island, which as the name suggests was famous in ancient times for its springs. Today it has only one small town – Hydra Port - which boasts white-washed buildings cascadeing down the hill towards the harbour, connected by steep stone streets and staircases, all lined with plenty of shops, restaurants, and art galleries. A compact gem that is absolutely perfect for walking and exploring. As an added bonus, all cars and motorcycles are banned on Hydra. So unless you fancy a donkey ride (the main form of local transport – bring your chafing cream!) a boat really is the best way to explore the island. Something well worth doing, as there
Issue two 2014
are many otherwise inaccessible bays and natural harbours, all very beautiful, and all largely untouched. Continue on to Spetses Island, a gorgeous pine-covered isle to the west of Hydra. The teeny port of Dapia is postcard perfect with a very impressive town piazza. This is a place where the thing to do is nothing. Just sit back, relax, and soak up the unhurried atmosphere. Linger over a strong coffee frappe in a café, while watching wizened old men play backgammon. Or go for a leisurely stroll or bicycle ride along the seafront, enjoying the balmy weather. Or rent a horse-drawn carriage if you’re after something a bit more romantic (like in Hydra, motor traffic is banned in the town). And if you’ve got a boat, make sure to use it to visit some of the more secluded beaches and coves dotted all around the coast. But the best thing about the Saronics is that despite being easily accessible, they remain authentically real. Sure, these islands are popular with wealthy Athenians, but the mass-market European tourists have thankfully kept away.
Most people with more time to spend head for the Cyclades, with world-renowned islands like Mykonos and Santorini on offer. Not surprisingly then, these have become touristy, crowded and expensive. If you hanker for something different though, make your way to the Sporades instead, an often-overlooked archipelago in the Aegean Sea along the northeastern coast of Greece. Here the islands are covered in lush forests, and you’ll find jaw-dropping scenery, ancient ruins and picturesque villages, set in waters that are probably the cleanest you’ll find anywhere in Greece. Not for nothing are the Sporades known as ‘the Emeralds of the Aegean’. Skiathos Island is the best known of the Sporades, so it can get pretty busy in the summer months, although with 65 beaches to choose from, you probably won’t even notice. Koukounaries Beach is widely regarded as Greece’s best, and was recently included in a list of the world’s top three beaches. Just as good is Big Banana Beach – a glorious crescent of golden sand, as the name suggests. Skopelos Island is a laid back, pine-covered isle every bit as beautiful, but far less visited than Skiathos. Until a few years ago, this isle was known mainly for its local cheese pie and its sublime nature walks. Then the film version of Mamma Mia was shot here - the producers felt Skopelos best encapsulated the spirit of the Greek islands, and who could argue? Make sure to visit the stunning Ioannis Chapel, built high on the rocks and reached via a series of steep stone steps. Skiros Island is the largest and least visited of the inhabited Sporades. If you want quiet uncrowded beaches, and somewhere to experience Greek island life untouched by mass-market tourism, then this is the place for you. But that’s just the beginning though. Only four of the 24 Sporades islands are inhabited. More often than not you’ll have them all to yourself. You’ll leave wishing you had an extra two weeks to spare. ●
59