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THE NANJINGER | VOLUME 12 ISSUE 08 | JUNE 2022
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Nanjing Nomads
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Editorial
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Poem Checking In
10 All Hope Abandon Ye Who Enter Here; Talk Like a True Nanjinger 12 The Professional Chameleonic Unicorn; Vernaculars from Oz to Tipperary 16 The Princess in the Tower (Wrong Princess, Right Tower) 20 The Gavel Not Forced to Speak Mandarin; Chinese Linguistic Diversity
22 A Perfect Goodbye; Saying Farewell to Nanjing 24 Great Nanjingers (23)
The Knighted Nanjinger & a Top Dog in Hong Kong; Harry Fang
25 Nankinish Delights Carb Heaven! Nanjing’s Most Beloved Breakfast Food
27 Capital Constructs ~7~ Nanjing Port Waiting Room
28 Our Space 35 Metro Map
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THE NANJINGER | VOLUME 12 ISSUE 08 | JUNE 2022
Editorial
Talk Talk
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deranged. We therefore begin this month with a question; why is the telephone code for Nanjing “025”?
Back then, when I first came to China, I had a local colleague who took a fancy to saying, “You are so very interesting”, whenever he witnessed any of my eccentric “foreignness”. In reality, what he meant was, “I think you’re an utter lunatic”.
And where does the expression “马上” (very soon) come from? Well, it actually derives from the ancient saying, "倚马可待", as a reference to a timeframe so short that you only need “lean on the horse”, and hey presto, it would be here!
here was a well-known phrase banded around in business circles by those wishing to impart their supposed great wisdom into the ears of would-be investors in the Middle Kingdom around 20 years ago. It went, “In China, ‘yes’ means ‘maybe’ and ‘maybe’ means ‘no’”.
Here in Nanjing, people are fond of using the expression “25” (二五) to refer to someone who’s done something stupid, idiotic or
Alert readers will have noticed that a new piece of lexicon has entered the Chinese language. Who has not heard these words of late; “今天核算” (have a NAT today)?
Welcome to “Vernacular” from The Nanjinger.
Ed.
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can the QR Code to visit The Nanjinger on WeChat, from where you can download a free PDF of this issue, find a full list of distribution points for hard copies or arrange a subscription to have The Nanjinger delivered to your home or office! This magazine is part of a family of English publications that together reach a large proportion of the foreign population living in Nanjing, along with a good dash of locals, comprising: The Nanjinger City Guide www.thenanjinger.com Facebook, WeChat, Twitter & Instagram
All of the above are owned and operated by HeFu Media, the Chinese subsidiary of SinoConnexion Ltd; www.sinoconnexion.com
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“What’s up me old mucker, mate, me old china? Oh…me pins are paining, me legs, the old egg and hams. That and me pate that’s not feeling so great as of late; a jackhammer’s been pounding there all through the night. I have downed a bunch of pills, but they didn’t yet bite. It’s all me own fault, nowt but myself to blame what with last night’s carousing: we sure had a skinfull. I was fritzed, out of my head, off my nut, but a hair of the dog will soon see me right. And you how’s it hanging? How’s the form? SSDD? Yes! I know what you mean. Anyhoo, good to talk, now it’s back to the grindstone. Give us a call when you’re game. We’ll swing by. Till then Ciao, bye, bye, bye, bye, bye…”
By M ait iu Bralligan ‘2 2
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T A L K
L I K E
A
T R U E
N A N J I N G E R
By Frank Hossack
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Listen closely to the vocabulary employed in everyday use by many a Nanjinger and you would be forgiven for imagining a preoccupation with Dante’s vision of the afterlife.
I
’m starving to death! I’m dying of thirst! I’m freezing to death!
These expressions are about the only examples of hyperbole employed in the English language associated with passing on. But away from any discussion as to their politically incorrectness, here in our Southern Capital, they are literally the tip of the iceberg that floats outside the doors to Hell. Largely the preserve of more senior members of the fairer sex, the associating of almost every activity as more or less, “death warmed up” is quite unique to Nanjing. People in other cities may use the lexicon, but only once in a blue moon. In Nanjing it is to be used every time the sun comes out. And that’s because sometimes, life is just a little too much trouble. Listening to many Nanjingers, however, life would appear to be a lot of trouble.
烦死了! [Fansile]
Too much bother, too much trouble, so much hassle. From opening a bank account to cleaning up a toddler’s mess, “fansile” is the go-to phrase in Nanjing when put remotely out of your way.
丑死了! [Chousile]
Your friend has just come out of the hairdressers, or the changing room in a clothes shop.
“What do you think, they ask?”. Nanjingers don’t dress up their lingo with nicities and therefore, the correct reply is, “Boy, that’s ugly”.
热死了、冷死了 [Resile; lengsile]
Chances are you’ve heard the former in the past 24 hours. As one of China’s furnaces, you have plenty opportunity these days to exclaim, “It’s boiling!”. As for the latter, in a few months, when the temperature drops from 35 degrees to 30 degrees overnight, that’s the time to say, “It’s freezing”.
吵死了! [Chaosile]
“What a din!”. To be used in a crowded playground, when passing groups of seniors sitting outside arguing over who won their game of mahjong. Also can be combined with the aforementioned, “烦死了”, in regard to the tantrum the toddler had before making said mess.
饿死了! [E’sile]
Back to the beginning. Nanjingers are a hungry bunch. For eating, it would appear, is the municipal pastime. Nanjingers also have overly-active digestive tracts. For here, it is perfectly possible to go from “full to brim” to “absolutely ravenous” in just a few short hours. Several times a day. As for the required usage? Every day, beginning at 11.32.
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THE PROFESSIONAL CHAMELEONIC UNICORN
Vernaculars from Oz to Tipperary By Triona Ryan
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It’s a starburst, a rainbow, a pantheon of dictions and slang and idioms. Each and every one of us code switches every day, perhaps even without knowing it, to enable communication, to build relationships and to perform transactional interactions that allow us to survive and thrive in a megacity that speaks a different language, operates on a different system of cultural norms and mores that we must learn, one way or another. Many years ago, a friend of mine went to Australia to work for the summer. When her boss asked her to retrieve a certain document, she told him that certainly, she would go take a root in her desk. His eyes popping out of his head alerted her to the fact that somewhere, there had been a misstep in communication. To root for something in Ireland means “to search for”. It means something entirely different in Oz, something usually done in private, something you really don’t want to be chatting casually about with your boss. Code-switching, at times a necessity, at times an adaptation of language or behaviour to maximise the comfort of others and receive more favourable treatment. I wish I could go back to the any-manyhenny-penny years and bunk off class and keep my accent. But it’s quite possible that if I ever
moved back there, I would reabsorb it naturally. I only have to walk past an accent to assimilate it. Perhaps the years of public speaking honed that ability, perhaps it’s just another tic in my curious neural suite. In any case, the ability to code switch and shift from “footpath” to “sidewalk”, from “tom-ei-to” to “tom-ah-to”, from “Darn-it” to “@#%* it” is a blessing and a curse. The Harvard Business Review (HBR) points to the social and psychological repercussions of codeswitching, in which diminished authenticity can lead to hyper-vigilance or even burnout. They recommend promoting diversity and representation in the workplace to reduce the need for code-switching in the first place. As per their 2019 article, “The Costs of Code-Switching”, HBR states, “In addition to focusing on diversity, organisations need to create inclusive environments for employees to feel comfortable bringing their authentic selves to work”. It may be too late for accent V1.0, but not to start bringing more of our authentic selves to the table, and encouraging others to do so too. Just like allyship, it’s not enough to passively promote inclusion. We need to fly those freak flags high and proud, embrace difference as delightful and celebrate the things that make us stand out from the crowd, rather than homogenise them. Now there’s a cause to root for!
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6pm-2am, 17th SEP. 2022 V E N U E : T H E R I T Z - C AR L T ON N A N J IN G
NAN J IN G
B R IT IS H C H ARI TY B A L L “D O WNT ON A BB E Y ”
PRESENTED BY
THE NANJINGER | VOLUME 12 ISSUE 08 | JUNE 2022
By Hattie
The Princess in the Tower
(Wrong Princess, Right Tower)
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here was once a princess locked away in a tall tower. Kept away from all who might claim her beauty, covet her loveliness, take her virtue. And then one day there was a prince, fair and tall and from whose tongue slipped silvered words, who climbed the tower to rescue his prize. His white palfreywaiting patiently at the foot of the tower, back broad and legs strong enough for two. At last, nails cracked and hands blistered, he hauled himself over the crumbling ledge of the window, rolling inside and ending on his knees before the feet of his bride. “Princess! I am here to rescue you!”
“Now then”, said his bride. The prince looked her over, noting the lines at her eyes, the grey in her hair, the broadness of her waist. “Who sed I need rescuin’?” She pointed to a dirty mat by him. “Wipe tha bloody feet.” The golden crown shining on top of shining golden curls didn’t give her a minute of pause, and after a lengthy pause he did as she said. She still moved with grace, though slowed by clear age, and the prince felt his heart sink as he watched the woman he’d been dreaming of take slow steps away from him. She looked back at him, those eyes still sharp and clear as they met his own.
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of the materials and the vastness of the drop. The rope seemed to be made of separate strands, each shining and golden, so the ladder looked like it was formed from strands of spun gold, and he thought back to the rumours he’d heard of this trapped princess, of the legends surrounding her. He gave it a tug experimentally, and she gave a short laugh. “Don’ worry ‘bout it. Ah’ve bin down tha’ more times than yeh’ve had hot dinners. Yeh’ll be reet.” ‘But you still come back here? To your prison?’ She shrugged. “Gotta mek the
best o’ what yeh’ve bin given. Besides, it’s mah home now. Though ah am thinkin’ o’ getting’ a pulley pu’ in, mekin’ an elevator. What d’yeh think?” She gave a low laugh, the sound almost alien to the prince as he contemplated a life where he made the best of what he had been given. He nodded. “If you do, can I come back to visit?” The princess beamed, the loveliness of yore back as her face lit up. “Yeh’ll always be welcome. Yeh know where t’find me.” She gave him a light push towards the ladder and his life. “Do me a favour, eh? Keep spreadin’ the rumour. It’d be nice t’ have some more company, an’ more come back than yeh’d think.”
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The Gavel
Legal notes from The Nanjinger in association with:
D’Andrea & Partners Legal Counsel
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Not Forced to Speak Mandarin; Chinese Linguistic Diversity
ernacular, also known as topolect and dialect, is the spoken language that is generally used in a specific geographical area. This kind of language is not limited by race, cultural background or other conditions. It has its own complete phonetic, lexical and grammatical structure system, which can meet the needs of local social communication. Some vernaculars, such as Cantonese, even have their own independent writing system. There are many factors which have contributed to the emergence of vernacular, including the interaction between society, geography, history, and regional languages. Therefore, the same vernacular may have different pronunciations due to different geographical locations. The vernacular is the carrier of local characteristics and culture. It has incomparable value for the study of local people’s modes of thinking, social characteristics, culture and history. However, the exclusiveness of the vernacular also leads to a limitation in communication scope and misunderstandings as to the expressed content. In 1956, to develop science and culture, improve the level of economic and social informationisation, and enhance exchanges/communication among ethnic groups in various regions, the Instructions on the Directive of the State Council on Popularising Mandarin issued by the State Council came into effect. This guidance worked together from the aspects of education, communication and publicity so that Mandarin could be quickly popularised in China. In 2004, according to another guidance from the then National Radio and Television Administration (NRTA), local vernacular was not permiited to be applied in overseas TV programmes’ dubbing. And in 2009, the NRTA further restricted the use of vernacular in TV dramas as per official guidance. Therefore, Mandarin has been promoted due to this kind of protective action from the government. The
State Council also published in 2021 a target that Mandarin penetration should reach 85 percent by 2025.
Protecting Local Vernacular The promotion of Mandarin is important to China's development, but this does not mean that China believes that the vernacular should disappear. In addition to the aforementioned, language expression is after all a basic right of the country’s citizens. For example, although the government specifies Mandarin as the designated language for court hearings, if an attending party is only capable of the vernacular (normal among seniors), the judge should allow them to use such during a hearing. The Chinese government has also made other efforts to protect the local vernacular. Realising this issue, a National People’s Congress Deputy from Nanjing submitted a proposal to the National People’s Congress in 2020 calling for the protection of all local vernacular nationwide, especially for young people by setting up vernacular courses in schools.
Vernacular as a Branding Tool In the field of commerce, to enhance their competitiveness, some companies have also tried to use or apply local vernacular in their trademarks so that their brands can be more easily accepted by local consumers. The companies will use the unified Mandarin characters in the written form, but they are pronounced as per the local vernacular. However, this requires comprehensive research before applying for trademarks since the National Trademark Bureau will review in detail the vernacular’s actual meaning according to different local cultures. It can therefore be predicted that in the future, Mandarin, as the main language popularised and used in China, shall coexist with the vernacular and jointly assume the responsibility of inheriting Chinese culture and promoting the nation’s development.
DISCLAIMER This article is intended solely for informational purposes and does not constitute legal advice. Although the information in this article was obtained from reliable official sources, no guarantee is made with regard to its accuracy and completeness. For more information please visit dandreapartners.com or WeChat: dandreapartners
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THE NANJINGER | VOLUME 12 ISSUE 08 | JUNE 2022
By Lillian Paetzold Chen
Bo’aige Pavillion on Purple Mountain
As we welcome the sunshine and summer breeze, some of us will be saying goodbye to friends we’ve met along the way who will be leaving the city of Nanjing. So why not take this opportunity to say a proper goodbye? Whether you've lived here for 2 years or for 8, with more than a plethora of activities and sights in Nanjing, there may be some you have missed. Before you leave Nanjing make sure of a lunch or dinner at Dapaidang which serves up quintisential Nanjing cuisine in a quite extraordinary setting taking you back to the Nanjing of old. As #7MEIZI2 on Dianping, commenting in Chinese describes it, “The lively Laomendong branch is decked out with bright lanterns looking like the bath house from [cult Japanese animated fantasy film] ‘Spirited Away’”. Here, the antique decoration complements the traditional cuisine of Nanjing style duck. Penty other options for those who don't eat meat, with a
range of seafood and vegetable dishes. Also serves a handful of local desserts. If you fancy going out in style for your Nanjing departure, the branch of Shíchaoyuanzi located downtown at 163-1 Fengfu Lu is perfect for large groups or even banquets as the dining area is spacious. However it's not recommended to drive there as the parking can be a bit of a hassle. The playfully whimsical decor extends from the floor tiles to even the door handles, while the outdoors is also brought indoors, with seats in boats and a cluster of draped pavilions. Apart from local cuisine, dishes from Huiyang and Shandong are served promptly. Make sure to sample their delectable dishes such as their famous roasted carp and lion's head meatballs. For a day trip don't forget Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum if you didn’t tick this one when you first arrived in Nanjing. Known for its landmarks, scenery and small 22
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attractions, the area is pretty big. Your visit will take in temples, gardens and lakes. Swans as well as a few eateries dot the lakes, while you can also catch seasonal performances in the outdoor amphitheatre. Also within the park there are designated places where you can feed deer; make sure you buy some deer feed at the gate of the park. And the other thing to remember this time of year? Mosquito repellent. If you're game for an overnight stay, why not take advantage of
Nanjing's natural amenities? The Pine Pillow Hotel is for a forest adventure with lakeside chalets that is also perfect for children with on-site playgrounds and picnic tables. Excellent for an overnight stay or just a long weekend, aside from the fresh air and mountainous scenery, a wide range of outdoor activities are just another reason to go. Around the area, you can find tree top adventures, kayaking, blueberry picking and a massive rainbow slide. Don’t forget the nearby markets with street food
vendors amongst the foot traffic. Located in Yaxi Town of Gaochun District, this was the first place to be awarded the title of Cittaslow in China. And to end your time in Nanjing? Our mighty Purple Mountain remains the perfect place to conclude your Nanjing chapter as the final resting place for emperors and heroes from over ten dynasties. Truly the apt place to say your final goodbye to the great city of Nanjing, the Southern Capital.
Nanjing of old in Dapaidang
Cittaslow in Yaxi, Gaochun District
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Great Nanjingers (23)
The Knighted Nanjinger & a Top Dog in Hong Kong; Harry Fang By Frank Hossack
Sir Harry Fang Sin-yang (方心讓), GBM, CBE, JP, had a list of titles as long as your arm. An orthopedic surgeon widely known as the "father of rehabilitation” and a champion of those with mobility issues, he rose to very briefly become a de facto leader of Hong Kong. Born in Nanjing on 2 August, 1923, Fang’s ancestral home was also not far away, in Shouxian County of neighbouring Anhui Province. His father an army general, Fang’s family moved to Shanghai when he was 8 and then to Hong Kong in 1938. Fang then enrolled in King’s College, Hong Kong, and soon learned Cantonese and English. At the age of 17, he received an early enrollment to the University of Hong Kong to study medicine. But coming from a family of limited means, Fang had nowhere to stay. Enter a priest in the University, who helped Fang convert a larder into his own single-person dormitory. He was to come close to dying just a year later. When the Pacific War broke out in 1941, the Japanese army invaded Hong Kong and Fang played his part, but was shot.
Medical Association, Chairman of the Student Health Services Committee and Chairman of the Hong Kong Jockey Association. But then the government came calling. In Hong Kong under the British prior to 1997, the term, “Senior Chinese Unofficial Member” referred to the highest-ranking ethnically Chinese member of the territory’s Legislative Council and Executive Council. Fang served as Member of the Legislative Council of Hong Kong between 1974 and 1985, and was Member of the Executive Council between 1979 and 1983. During these years, Hong Kong’s taxi drivers went on strike. With the Governor in London, together with other top Members of the Council, Fang became briefly the Territory’s most senior Member, meaning he had to personally deal with the taxi drivers. But his most significant recognition was even still yet to come.
This put Fang in an important position, enabling him to use such new-found status to further the cause for rehabilitation.
Fang received a knighthood in 1996 in the form of Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (CBE), and was awarded the Grand Bauhinia Medal (GBM), named after the Hong Kong flower, in 2001 to commend his contributions to public welfare, social and rehabilitation affairs. That year, he was one of only three people to receive the award that is the highest in the honours and awards system of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region.
Among those many titles which Fang received were President of the Hong Kong Branch of the British
Fang passed away on 24 August, 2009, as a result of complications from a stroke.
Graduating in 1949, Fang served as assistant lecturer in surgery at the University from 1950 to 1952, before receiving a UK government grant to study in Liverpool. He returned as an orthopaedic specialist, a skill very much lacking in Hong Kong at the time.
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S
ince the past year or two, some of the fanciest coffee shops, bars and bistros have mushroomed around the intersection of Wangfu Da Jie (王府大街) and Nantai Xiang (南台巷). The Sauce, Wine Thieves, Bitter Brew, Southern Trip, Staff Only, Cherry Bomb, Y&T… the list could go longer. If you have been following The Nanjinger, chances are that many of the names sound familiar to you. But have you ever walked around that area early in the morning, like 08:00? “What for?”, You might wonder. The time is indeed too early for the bars or even the coffee shops to be open. However, if you do go there that early, you would find many people queuing in front of a small eatery right across the street from The Sauce. What makes them willing to stand in a long queue even on a busy weekday morning? The answer is both simple and obvious; breakfast. More specifically, they queue for a type of rice roll which is a classic breakfast food in the Lower Yangtze (Jiangnan) region. The name is “zhengfan" (蒸饭; steamed rice) in Nanjing, but it is more commonly known as “cifantuan” (糍饭团; sticky rice roll) in Southern Jiangsu and Shanghai. Simply put, this is a hand-sized rice ball stuffed with deepfried dough (油条; youtiao). If that is hard to picture, think about a lightly salted doughnut stick wrapped in a sushi roll. Carbs wrapped in carbs, I know, but that should not seem too surprising when you come to a land that has been so populous and agriculture-dependent throughout history. As its Nanjing name suggests, zhengfan is made of steamed rice, which is firmer than boiled rice as the grains absorb less water while cooking. In addition, glutinous rice (a.k.a. sticky rice) is used to make it even denser and chewier to the bite. The seemingly plain surface contrasts with a mixture of flavours and textures hidden underneath. The major part of the filling is youtiao, the deep-fried, aerated dough stick which is arguably the most widely loved breakfast item in China. You can have it in your rice roll as how it normally is: crispy on the outside, light and soft on the inside. Alternatively, you can ask for a crunchier type, which is fried for a longer time until the dough becomes crispy throughout.
Other ingredients are used to complement the youtiao and different vendors feature their own combinations. These are traditionally categorised as savoury or sweet; a universal breakfast debate, of course. The savoury contains a variety of pickled vegetables, whereas the sweet is enriched with a mixture of sugar, ground black sesame, and sometimes crushed peanuts. You may have already picked your side, but I always ask for both the savoury and sweet ingredients in the same roll. That, in my opinion, is the secret to extra deliciousness, with usually no extra cost. This type of rice roll was introduced to Hong Kong and Taiwan during the first half of the 20th century by immigrants from Shanghai. The Taiwan variant has been recently re-shaped in mainland China, featuring a wider range of fillings such as pork floss, eggs and grilled meat. Innovative rice rolls are now widely available in convenient stores and even KFC, whereas the traditional type is usually found with pavement-based breakfast vendors who disappear by 10:00. All that said, I was surprised at how many people were coming to buy zhengfan from this small eatery called “Fangpo” (芳婆) on Wangfu Da Jie. Fangpo is in fact a traditional dessert shop that has been serving the city since the late 1970s. Their baby taro soup and sweet rice wine are perfect afternoon refreshments for me on a shopping day in Xinjiekou, but I had never had rice rolls there. How do theirs differ from other breakfast vendors? Are they worth the long wait? At 08:02 on a Friday, I finally found myself standing at the end of the queue. Fangpo opens every day from 04:00 and the rice rolls tend to sell out in the first 5 hours. I was glad that I made it. Compared to my 17-kilometre journey from home, the 10-minute wait in the queue was nothing. The seating area was closed due to COVID, but the store was extremely busy nonetheless. Four women standing behind the front counter were wrapping rice rolls at full speed, while other staff members worked the rear of the store. A seasonal type of rice called “wufan” (乌饭; black rice) is used to make the rolls. Unlike black rice or 25
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purple rice, wufan is essentially white glutinous rice but gains its dark colour from the sap of a special kind of tree leaf, available only from April to October. Most people in Nanjing prefer wufan over white rice as it comes with a subtle herbal scent.
parents’ bicycles as they dashed to school. Now in 2022, it seems to me more of a luxury experience to enjoy a rice roll while walking the city centre’s busy streets. These were certainly some high-quality zhengfan. The rice and the flavours were spot on. The marinated egg was outstanding, but the youtiao could have been better. Worth the hype? I’m not so sure, because I can think of some other places that make zhengfan as good as these, but with shorter queues and lower prices. One of them is even in the vicinity of Fangpo. It is a popup stall in front of a Xinjiang lamb pilaf restaurant (the lamb pilaf is good, by the way), run by an elderly couple. Further information is listed below for a rice roll competition should you be in need of extra carbs.
Each rice roll is made to order. Approaching the front of the queue, I enjoyed watching warm rice being scooped from a large bucket, weighed on an old-fashioned scale, spread on a cotton cloth, and rolled up tightly with the customised filling into a rugby-shaped ball. That, to me, was a promising scene compared to some places where sushi mats are used. Now it’s time to think about the filling. In addition to the traditional savoury and sweet options, along with two types of youtiao, there are also pork floss, hard-boiled eggs marinated in soy sauce, and sausage links from which to choose. A grey-haired man in front of me seemed to be irritated by the unconventional options. When kindly asked by the cashier whether he would like any pork floss or egg in his “savoury” roll, he replied with an impatient tone, “Just ‘the savoury’, please!”, as if a simple mention of other options was enough to defile the purity of his roll.
On second thoughts, the hype is perhaps welldeserved. Like in many other Chinese cities, breakfast in Nanjing used to be widely served at street stalls and food carts, but their numbers have declined significantly due to strict regulations, especially in the Xinjiekou area. It is almost inevitable to wait in line these days in order to get some authentic local breakfast anywhere in the city.
To make the most of my trip, I ordered two different rolls to cover all the ingredients, except the sausage, and ate them immediately before they became cold and soggy. An apparent advantage of zhengfan as breakfast is its portability. 20 years ago it was common to see kids eating zhengfan on their
After all, the best breakfast does not need to be out-of-this-world good. To many people, it simply means the most comforting way to start the day, be it Philadelphia cream cheese spread on an everything bagel, or a zhengfan rice roll filled with crunchy youtiao and pickled vegetables.
Fangpo Rice Cake Shop 芳婆糕团店, 50 Wangfu Dajie ����50� Hours: 04:00-19:00, Monday to Sunday. Zhang Qingying Wufan 张庆英乌饭, 8 Houjia Qiao 侯家桥8号 Hours: 06:00-09:30, Monday to Sunday. 26
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The Building of Nanjing
decorated, Nanjing Port Waiting Room is a standout example of traditional Chinese decorative art that has been given the benefit of modern materials and processes. Not fit for purpose since the opening of the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge removed the need for the train ferry, the building languished for many years until the recent revival of the Xiaguan part of Nanjing.
By Frank Hossack
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t’s the place where the lower and upper classes would be required to intermingle ahead of an assuredly somewhat long journey. With air travel a thing of the future, and not a single bridge across the mightyYangtze River, all journeys to the north and west of China began from here. The Nanjing Port Waiting Room can be found at 21 Jiangbian Lu (the road’s name in Chinese meaning “riverside”), as the point of ticket purchase before waiting to board a train that would then be shunted onto the train ferry nearby. And while it might look like a traditional Chinese style palace in many respects, it is nowhere near as old. Built during the Republican era, the palace similarities stem from the classical Chinese patterned lintels, which are concrete imitations thereof. Window awnings, akin to hanging gardens, are richly moulded. Exquisitely
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That 2016 transformation for the Waiting Room was twofold; exterior and interior. As for the former, the accompanying image speaks for itself. Inside is now the “Nanjing Xiaguan History Exhibition Hall” and the “Nanjing Binjiang Business District Planning Exhibition Hall”. That historical journey begins with the first foot taken inside, as the marble floor tiles of the exhibition hall are engraved with the various names of Xiaguan from different historical periods; the ancient names whispered, as if floating along the long river of history and living the It’s also something of a waxworks museum today. Herein find Zheng He’s treasure ship sailing to the west and wharf porters bargaining with their rich and powerful clients in surprisingly lifelike scenes. Climbing up to the third floor is a walk from the past to the future. Here, a 200-square-metre panoramic view of the future planning for Nanjing’s riverside business district.
Nanjing Port Waiting Room
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Additional info, online version or Chinese contact via the QR code that follows each review.
GASTRONOMY By Frank Hossack
Ice Cream & Oyster Platter is (Probably) not what You Think
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Still on that subject, a trip to the bathroom is a must for any According to the Hotmaxx website, on which they certainly haven’t diner. Immaculately clean and very retro, with wrought-iron wasted any of their scant profit, the discount retailer was founded fixtures and wooden toilet seats. in February, 2020, to provide consumers with a “cool shopping experience”, where “surprises always happen”. Oyster Bistro is located at 2A, 102 Hubin Lu 湖滨 路湖滨公寓2A栋一层102号. Tel: 86190977 / 17702510977.
RETAIL By Frank Hossack
The Cheapest; Most Expensive! We Sure Have it all in Nanjing!
Second that. How about a standard pack of baby wipes for ¥4.2; Recommended Retail Price (RRP) ¥12.9? Or a 1.25-litre bottle of orange juice for ¥5.0; RRP ¥12? At the vinous end of things, a bottle of the ever-reliable, Casillero del Diablo, is only ¥49.9; a can of Korea’s preferred beer, Cass, only ¥3.1, less than a third of elsewhere.
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tuff can sure cost a pretty penny in China, but it can also be darned cheap. In one of the Middle Kingdom’s greatest dichotomies, international brand names manufacture in China because it’s cheap, then sell it out the back at prices which make your eyes water.
Then there are the instant noodles. At Hotmaxx, get a pack of Canton beef-flavour noodles for ¥1.9; RRP ¥4.5. We’ve not seen things that cheap since the International Supermarket Instant Noodle Price War from the turn of the century, when a pack of plain curry-flavour noodles could be had for 2 UK Pence (¥0.2).
Forgetting the handbags, let’s talk about the stuff that matters. A litre of halfway-decent milk in Nanjing goes for more than ¥20, three times more than in the UK. What else do “laowai” like? Bread. That could be ¥3 per SLICE in Nanjing, thank you very much. I can get a whole loaf for that (granted, not a particularly good loaf) from Tesco in the UK. You like Sushi? Be prepared to fork out as much as ¥13 for one tiny rice-encrusted treat. And that’s not even from a restaurant. On to the heavyweights. The top pieces of real estate in Nanjing now command a price of ¥80,000 per square metre. That’s right, a “modest” 100 square-metre apartment in Nanjing can now set you back ¥8 million. In most other countries, that’s going to buy you a sizeable castle. And its accompanying super yacht, stable of horses and Instagram account. Yep, stuff can sure be expensive in China. And how on Earth retailers such as Hotmaxx can possibly turn a profit is beyond us. But so goes the #1 mantra in China; if it’s not expensive, it’s rubbish. Enjoy while the moment lasts. Time for a return to reality, via a short, sharp, slap across the face. Hotmaxx has 20+ locations in Nanjing. Find one near Bringing us to Hotmaxx, where, by and large, brand-name you by searching “Hotmaxx” in English on the everyday products are literally half the price of elsewhere. Dianping APP. 29
THE NANJINGER | VOLUME 12 ISSUE 08 | JUNE 2022
THE NANJINGER | 2022.06
St John’s has acquired a new plot of land for “Forest School”, a 20-minute walk from their Jiangning campus, where, once a week, children spend a half day exploring nature, being inspired by nature and yes, eaten by nature too. City life can get a bit too comfy for our little ones, so this precious time outdoors reminds us of our connection with the planet, where we came from and how you need to beware of snakes in the “nature loo”!
St John’s College School Nanjing 12 May, 2022
THE NANJINGER | VOLUME 12 ISSUE 08 | JUNE 2022
The Parents’ Association based out of The British School of Nanjing kicked off the summer with a day trip to Jubaoshan Park in Nanjing’s Qixia District. There, in cooperation with Plesios Kayak club, some of the approximately 70 people attending tried their hand at kayaking, the younger ones took to the jungle gum, while everyone enjoyed a delicious picnic.
B S N Pa re n t s’ Association 5 June, 2022
To see photos from your event on these pages, contact The Nanjinger via info@thenanjinger.com. Conditions apply.
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THE NANJINGER | 2022.06
Nanjing International School celebrated the graduation of its Class of 2022 in a ceremony that recognised the culmination of their learning journeys at NIS and the transition into the next stage of their lives. Many Class of 2022 graduates have been accepted into their choice of top colleges and universities around the world, while others have chosen to enjoy a gap year before moving into higher education.
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THE NANJINGER | VOLUME 12 ISSUE 08 | JUNE 2022
The class of 2022 at the British School of Nanjing celebrated their
4 June, 2022
graduation on Saturday 4 June with a formal dinner and dance at the Kempinski Hotel. All will be heading off to universities around the world and took the opportunity to say goodbye in style!
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THE NANJINGER | 2022.06
Metro Map THE
Download this map to your smartphone via The Nanjinger website
The Nanjinger’s Metro Map is the only printed map of the city’s metro system to include first and last times for every station, perfect for planning a late night out or an adventure to somewhere new with an early start. In the case of last trains, passengers are advised to enter the station of departure at least 10 minutes before the train time.
