REVIEW
FIERCE FLAVORS
Meaty wood-charred octopus sits atop couscous and peppers, dressed with bright romesco.
Deeply satisfying modern Israeli cuisine at Aziza STORY:
Jennifer Bradley Franklin PHOTOS: Sara Hanna
Pull apart Aziza's croissant-like kubaneh bread and sop up freshly grated tomato and spicy schug for a satisfying start to any meal.
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had planned to visit Israel in late 2019, but life got busy as it often does around the holidays, and I decided to put off my pilgrimage until it was more convenient. I couldn’t have known that a virus would turn the world upside down, postponing my travel plans indefinitely. Even though I’ve yet to float in the Dead Sea, marvel at Tel Aviv’s Bauhaus architecture or photograph
March/April 2022 | Simply Buckhead
the glittering Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, I'm grateful that I don't have to miss out on Israel's flavors. Meaning “happiness” in Arabic, Aziza is tucked into the lower level of Westside Provisions District so covertly you might miss it. Your culinary horizons would be the poorer for overlooking it, though: It’s a treasure hiding in plain sight. It sits next to its more casual sibling, Falafel Nation, that specializes in quick, grab-and-go items such as hummus bowls and pitas stuffed with all manner of tasty fillings. Aziza, on the other hand, is designed for a more elevated experience, with striking environs created by designer Smith Hanes. The dimly lit dining room and diminutive bar feature subtle nods to the Middle East with muted earth tones, hanging baskets, blushtoned upholstery and statement-making light fixtures. The open kitchen, with its large wood-burning oven that factors heavily into most dishes, is a welcoming focal point. As special as the dining room feels, the food at Aziza is the main event. To whet my appetite, I started with the Shug Shake cocktail. The shaken blend of tequila, lime, char-
treuse and a proliferation of fresh dill, parsley and mint looks (and tastes) like the garden of Eden in a glass. It's just right alongside the restaurant’s signature kubaneh, a pull-apart bread popular in Israel and Syria. Resembling a giant muffin-shaped croissant, it gets its feather-light and crispy texture from the butter laminated between the layers. Served with juicy grated tomato and schug, a spicy condiment made of garlic, hot peppers, spices and fragrant green herbs, it sets the scene for the simple, elegant and intensely flavorful dishes to come. Sharing is the best way to maximize your tour of the menu, so my husband and I began with the simply monikered Hummus No. 1. The silky chickpea mixture forms a cradle for braised duck, pecans, pomegranate and nutty tahini, just waiting to be scooped with still-steaming laffa bread. We stuck to the sea to round out our starters, with tender-crisp, wood-blistered octopus with coriander, couscous, peppers, sunflower, romesco and almonds, and an elegantly presented tuna tartare served with preserved lemon labneh, caviar, lemon oil and herbs. A friend from Lebanon introduced me
