Third Year BA (Hons) Architecture Design Portfolio: Fabric City

FABRIC CITY

SILAN ESEN UNIT 8 YEAR 3

EVERY SECOND, THE EQUIVALENT OF ONE GARBAGE TRUCK OF TEXTILES IS LANDFILLED OR BURNED. THAT ADDS UP TO $500 BILLION IN CLOTHING WASTE A YEAR. ON THE CURRENT PATH, BY 2050 THE FASHION INDUSTRY WILL ACCOUNT FOR QUARTER OF THE WORLD’S CARBON BUDGET. THE PROBLEM IS A COMBINATION OF WIDESPREAD USAGE OF ENVIRONMENTALLY UNFRIENDLY TEXTILES, A GROWING NORM OF MASS CONSUMPTION, AND A SHRINKING LIFESPAN OF ITEMS PURCHASED. IN OTHER WORDS, PEOPLE ARE BUYING MORE AND THROWING IT AWAY FASTER. THE FASHION INDUSTRY ISN’T ALONE IN GENERATING LARGE VOLUMES OF WASTE. ACCORDING TO THE FOOD AND AGRICULTURE ORGANIZATION, A STAGGERING 45% OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES ARE OFTEN NOT EVEN HARVESTED OR SIMPLY DISCARDED DUE TO THEIR APPEARANCE. IRONICALLY, THIS FOOD WASTE PRESENTS ONE OF THE MOST PROMISING SOLUTIONS TO THE FASHION INDUSTRY’S ETHICAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL WOES. PLANT-BASED FABRICS DERIVED FROM FOOD WASTE COULD MEAN NOT JUST LOWER IMPACT TEXTILES, BUT NET-POSITIVE TEXTILES. PUT SIMPLY, TEXTILES THAT TAKE WASTE OUT OF THE SYSTEM. THIS PROJECT WILL EXPLORE THE ALCHEMY OF DECOLONISATION OF COLONIALISM IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY BY RECYCLING WASTED FRUITS INTO BEAUTIFUL FABRIC AND WILL ALLOW PEOPLE TO SELL AND BUY FREELY IN AN EXHIBITED SPACE. IT WILL ALSO DYE FABRIC WITH NATURAL WASTE FOR A SYMBOL OF HOPE AND THIS WILL ALLOW IT TO BE THE 21ST CENTURY OF PLEASURE GARDEN.

DESPINA CAN BE REACHED IN TWO WAYS: BY SHIP OR BY CAMEL. THE CITY DISPLAYS ONE FACE TO THE TRAVELLER ARRIVING OVERLAND AND A DIFFERENT ONE TO HIM WHO ARRIVES BY SEA. WHEN THE CAMEL DRIVER SEES, AT THE HORIZON OF THE TABLELAND, THE PINNACLES OF THE SKYSCRAPERS COME INTO VIEW, THE RADAR ANTENNAE, THE WHITE AND RED WINDSOCKS NAPPING, THE CHIMNEYS BELCHING SMOKE, HE THINKS OF A SHIP; HE KNOWS IT IS A CITY, BUT HE THINKS OF IT AS A VESSEL THAT WILL TAKE HIM AWAY FROM THE DESERT, A WINDJAMMER ABOUT TO CAST OFF, WITH THE BREEZE ALREADY SWELLING THE SAILS, NOT YET UNFURLED, OR A STEAMBOAT WITH ITS BOILER VIBRATING IN THE IRON KEEL; AND HE THINKS OF ALL THE PORTS, THE FOREIGN MERCHANDISE THE CRANES UNLOAD ON THE DOCKS, THE TAVERNS WHERE CREWS OF DIFFERENT BAGS BREAK BOTTLES OVER ONE ANOTHER’S HEADS, THE LIGHTED, GROUND-BOOR WINDOWS, EACH WITH A WOMAN COMBING HER HAIR. IN THE COASTLINE’S HAZE, THE SAILOR DISCERNS THE FORM OF A CAMEL’S WITHERS, AN EMBROIDERED SADDLE WITH GLITTERING FRINGE BETWEEN TWO SPOTTED HUMPS, AD- ‘FENCING AND SWAYING; HE KNOWS IT IS A CITY, BUT HE THINKS OF IT AS A CAMEL FROM WHOSE PACK HANG WINESKIN AND BAGS OF CANDIED FRUIT, DATE WINE, TOBACCO LEAVES, AND ALREADY HE SEES HIMSELF AT THE HEAD OF A LONG CARAVAN TAKING HIM AWAY FROM THE DESERT OF THE SEA, TOWARD OASES OF FRESH WATER IN THE PALM TREES’ JAGGED SHADE, TOWARD PALACES OF THICK, WHITEWASHED WALLS, TILED COURTS WHERE GIRLS ARE DANCING BAREFOOT, MOVING THEIR ARMS, HALF-HIDDEN BY THEIR VEILS, AND HALFREVEALABLE CITY RECEIVES ITS FORM FROM THE DESERT IT OPPOSES; AND SO THE CAMEL DRIVER AND THE SAILOR SEE DESPINA, A BORDER CITY BETWEEN TWO DESERTS.

1

2

3

4

5

6

1. WIND-SOCK 2. SAIL 3. WIND-JAMMER 4. CANDIED-FRUIT 5. TOBACCO PLANT 6. HAIR-COMB

RE-TELLING DESPINA PART 1

1. HE TRIES TO FIND THE CITY OF DESPINA 2. THE SUGGEST GIVING DATES TO CAMELS TO LEAD THEM TO THE CITY 3.THEY HEAD TO THE CITY 4.THEY FIND THE CITY THROUGH WIND-SOCK FLAGS 5. THEY WALK AROUND AND REALISE SAILS ARE MECHANISMS GIVING OUT DATES TO CAMELS.

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

RE-TELLING DESPINA PART 2

6. THEY COME ACROSS DANCING LADIES IN WIND-SOCKS 7. THEY APPROACH GIANT STRAWBERRY STEAMERS 8. CAN SEE THE PORT 9. AT THE PORT WHERE GOODS SAIL OFF

EXPLORING THE IDEA OF MASTS PROJECT 1

EXPLORING SAILS AND MASTS

1

THIS PAGE PRESENTS MODELS OF SAILS IN DIFFERENT SIZES TO BRING OUT ANY FURTHER IDEA FOR DEVELOPMENT. THIS IS TO DEVELOP IN THE NEXT PAGE ON HOW I INTERPRETED THE SAIL INTO AN IDEA OF POTENTIAL MECHANISM. 1. PLAN OF THE MASTS - 12 ALTOGETHER 2. CLOSE AXO VIEW OF DETAILS 3. CLOSE ELEVATION VIEW

DEVELOPING MASTS, SAIL AND CANDIED STRAWBERRIES PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

MODEL OF MAST PART 1

FOLLOWING FROM WINDJAMMERS AND SAILS, I MODELLED A MAST WHICH HAS SAIL THAT OPENS AND SHUTS MANUALLY. THIS MODEL WAS AN EXPERIMENT ON HOW I COULD CREATE THE MODEL ON THE FOLLOWING PAGE. THE MAIN ASPECT OF THIS WAS TO UNDERSTAND HOW IT COULD MOVE THE SIZE AND MATERIALITY. TO MAKE THIS MODEL I CARVED INTO THIN WOOD SLICES AND MADE SURE THE SAILS HAVE SUPPORT BY THREAD AND GLUE. THE MAIN ATTACHMENT FORCE I USED WAS THREAD. I STITCHED EVERYTHING TOGETHER ONCE EVERYTHING WAS READY TO BE PUT TOGETHER.

PLEASE REFER TO MODEL

MODEL OF MAST PART 2 - PULLING THE FABRIC

THIS PAGE PRESENTS THE SAILS OPENING AND CLOSING BY PULLING DOWN THE STRING AND PUSHING UP THE FABRIC

DEVELOPING MODEL OF MAST PART 1 ( ROUND )

THIS IS MY SECOND MODEL. BY DOING THE FIRST MODEL I WAS ABLE TO CREATE A CIRCULAR VERSION IN WHICH IT WOULD OPEN AND SHUT AS WELL AS THE SAILS OPEN AND CLOSING LIKE THE PERIVIOUS PAGE. I WAS INSPIRED BY UMBRELLAS OPENING AND CLOSING.

PLEASE REFER TO MODEL

DEVELOPING MODEL OF MAST PART 2 ( ROUND )

MECHANISM OF SAIL WORKS WITH A PULLING TECHNIQUE, OPPOSITE OF AN UMBRELLA. TO MAKE THIS MODEL I CREATED TUBES IN WHICH THE STRING WOULD GO THROUGH AND TUBES THAT WOULD HOLD THE SAILS AND AS I PULL THE STRING THE SAIL WOULD ALSO OPEN AND LOCK IT IN BY TIEING THEM ALL TOGETHER.

DEVELOPING MODEL OF MAST PART 3 ( ROUND )

COLLAGING MODELS TO CREATE AN ATMOSPHERE

PLEASE REFER TO COLLAGE

DEVELOPING MODEL OF STRAWBERRY PART 1 ( CARDBOARD )

TO IMPROVE THE STRAWBERRY ORIGAMIS THAT I CREATED AFTER I READ ‘CANDIED FRUIT’ FROM THE TEXT, I DECIDED TO CREATE A SYSTEM IN WHICH THE STRAWBERRY WOULD MOVE JUST LIKE THE SAILS, TO CREATE THIS I CUT BROWN CARD BY 18X18 AND SEW EACH OF THE 8 SIDES AS WELL AS THE LEAVES, CARVED THE WOOD AND ATTACHED THE THREAD THROUGH THE CARVINGS WITH THREAD. AS I PULLED THE THREAD THE CARD FLICKED AND CREATED THE SHAPE MORE LIKE A STRAWBERRY RATHER THAN IT MAKING IT LOOK LIKE THE STRUCTURE.

PLEASE REFER TO MODEL

DEVELOPING MODEL OF STRAWBERRY PART 2 ( CARDBOARD AND FABRIC)

AFTER MODELLING THE CARDBOARD VERSION I DECIDED TO MOVE ON TO CREATING IT WITH FABRIC. I SEW INTO 8 FABRICS WHICH WERE SHAPED AS TRIANGLES. AFTER DOING THAT I ATTACHED THEM ON TO THE CARDBOARD MODEL WITH MAINLY STICHING BUT ALSO GLUE. I CREATED CYLINDER WHICH WOULD ALLOW THE THREAD TO GO THROUGH WITHOUT FLICKING AND I ATTACHED THEM ALL ON TO THE CARVED WOOD.

AFTER MODELLING THE CARDBOARD VERSION I DECIDED TO MOVE ON TO CREATING IT WITH FABRIC. I SEW INTO 8 FABRICS WHICH WERE SHAPED AS TRIANGLES. AFTER DOING THAT I ATTACHED THEM ON TO THE CARDBOARD MODEL WITH MAINLY STITCHING BUT ALSO GLUE. I CREATED CYLINDER WHICH WOULD ALLOW THE THREAD TO GO THROUGH WITHOUT FLICKING AND I ATTACHED THEM ALL ON TO THE CARVED WOOD.

PLEASE REFER TO MODEL

DEVELOPING MODEL OF STRAWBERRY PART 3 ( CARDBOARD AND FABRIC)

PULLING THE STRING FOR THE STRAWBERRY TO CLOSE

DEVELOPING MODEL OF STRAWBERRY ( CARDBOARD AND FABRIC)

THIS IS LOOKING AT THE MODEL FROM UPSIDE DOWN TO SHOW HOW THE FABRIC WAS ATTACHED AS WELL AS HOW THE FABRIC LOOKS WHILST THE THREAD HAS BEEN PULLED TOGETHER.

RESEARCHING CLOTHING INDUSTRY

ENERGY

ENERGY

TRANSPORT TRANSPORT

AGRICULTURE

AGRICULTURE

ITALY PORTUGAL AUSTRIA DENMARK UK BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC DENMARK SPAIN FINLAND

FASHION

FASHION

THESE ARE THE EU COUNTRIES CREATING THE MOST TEXTILE POLLUTION HAVE BEEN LISTED IN A NEW STUDY, WITH ITALY, PORTUGAL, AUSTRIA AND THE UK NAMED THE BIGGEST CULPRITS. THE STUDY, PUBLISHED BY AMSTERDAM-BASED MENSWEAR BRAND LABFRESH, EXAMINED VARIOUS FACTORS TO ARRIVE AT ITS CONCLUSION, INCLUDING THE NATIONS’ TOTAL AMOUNT OF TEXTILE WASTE, SPENDING ON NEW CLOTHING PER PERSON, THE SHARE OF THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY IN THE GROSS DOMESTIC PRODUCT AND THE YEARLY EXPORT OF WORN CLOTHING.

‘‘THE TRUE COST: A FASHION DOCUMENTARY’’

LARHEA PEPPER - COTTON FARMER ‘‘For Us, Its Not Reducing The Amount Of Pesticides And Chemicals Going On The Cotton, That’s One Of The Big- It Reduces That. Not In Our Area, We Are Spraying Million And Million Of Acres And Dollars Of Roundup Across The Entire South Plains.

What Kind Of Impact Does That Have On Our Soil With Residuals That Are Left At Microbacterial Level? What Kind Of Impact Is That Having On The People In Our Communities. Where Is The Cost On That?’’

10%

IMPORT

IMPORT

90%

97% MADE IN UK

1960’S

MADE IN UK

TODAY

CATHERINE CHARLOT - DESIGNER ‘‘Um... It Is A Disease In Haiti, Not Only In Haiti, I Think In Any Third World Country That You’re Visiting. Like, You Know... It’s A Problem, It’s A Huge Problem. Pepe, A Bunch Of Clothes, Most Of Them Came From The States. People Will Go And Buy A Box Full Of Clothes. They Don’t Even Know What They’re Buying. Those Are Clothes People Donate To Charity, And Charity Cannot Sell Them Or Whatever. They Pack Them And Ship Them To Those Third Countries, And Most Of Them End Up Here.’’

THE GARMENT INDUSTRY IS SO HUGE THAT IT EMPLOYS AN ESTIMATED 1 OUT OF EVERY 6 PEOPLE IN THE WORLD. THERE ARE 40 MILLION GARMENT FACTORY WORKERS. FOUR MILLION WORK IN BANGLADESH

SHIMA AKHTER - GARMENT WORKER ‘‘When I First Started Working In A Garment Factory, My Salary Was $10 A Month. The Re Are Chemicals Inside The Factory. I Have Formed A Union At My Work. 20/40 Staffers Attacked Us And Beat Us Up. They Used Chairs, Sticks Scales.

There Is No Limit To The Struggle Of Bangladeshi Workers. Everyday We Wake Up Early In The Morning; We Go To The Factory, And Work Really Hard All Day. People Have No Idea How Diffivult It Is For Us To Make The Clothing.’’

VANDANA SHIVA - ACTIVIST ‘‘The Western Countries Thought That It Would Be A Good Idea To Market Them To Third World.

So Farmers Get Into Debt When They Get The Seed Because Of The High Cost, 17,000 Percent More. They Get Into Deeper Debt Because It Doesn’t Deliver On The Promise Of Controlling Pests, So They Have To Buy More Pesticides. The Tragedy With Chemicals, Whether It’s Fertilizers Or Pesticides, Is That They Are What Has Been Called Ecological Narcotics.

5,000 FACTORIES, SEWING CLOTHES FOR MAJOR WESTERN BRANDS. MORE THAN 85 PERCENT OF THESE WORKERS ARE WOMEN EARNING LESS THAN $3 PER DAY.

WASTED FRUITS

STOPPING FOOD WASTE THE CO2 IMPACT WOULD BE EQUIVILANT OF TAKING 1 IN 4 CARS OFF THE ROAD. THAT WILL SAVE 15 MILLION TONNES OF CO2 EQUIVILANT.

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

FISH

THE UK PAYS FOR BUT DOES NOT EAT UP TO £9.55 BILLION OF GOOD EACH YEAR

MEAT

1.2 MILLION TONNES OF FOOD IS THROWN AWAY IN IT’S PACKAGING.

CEREALS

UP TO TWO-FIFTHS OF A CROP OF FRUIT OR VEGETABLES CAN BE WASTED BECAUSE IT IS “UGLY”, A REPORT ON FOOD WASTE HAS SHOWN PRODUCE GROWN IN THE UK THAT DOES NOT MEET RETAILER STANDARDS ON SIZE OR SHAPE OR IS BLEMISHED IS OFTEN USED FOR ANIMAL FEED OR SIMPLY PLOUGHED BACK INTO THE GROUND EVEN THOUGH IT IS EDIBLE, WITH AS MUCH AS 40% OF A CROP REJECTED.

DAIRY

£680 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES WASTED PER FAMILY

40% of FRUITS AND VEGETABLES ARE REJECTED BECAUSE OF THEIR APPEARANCE 1 billion

1.2 million

4.8 1.4 million

25 million 2.6 billion

DIFFERENT TECHNOLOGIES OF CONVERTING WASTE TO FABRIC

6

GARMENT FARM

GARMENT MANUFACTURING

1

STEMS & LEAVES

DRY PROCESSING

CUTTING

SEPERATION & CLEANING

KNITS

4

3

WET PROCESSING

WOVENS

YARN SPINNING OPEN-END ORBITAL & RING HYBRID YARN

PROPRIETARY AGRALOOP CHEMISTRY BIOFIBRE

AGRALOOP The Agraloop Refines Natural Fibers Derived From Agricultural Crops Into Textile-Grade Fiber Called Agraloop™ Biofibre™. A New Natural Fiber Mindfully Sourced For Circularity.

FABRIC MILLING

5

2

SEWING

With Our Specialized Wet Processing Technique, Cellulose Fiber From Stems And Leaves Are Purified Into Soft Fiber Bundles Ready To Spin Into Yarns.

The Agraloop Processes Left-Overs From Various Food And Medicine Crops Including, Oilseed Hemp/Flax, Cbd Hemp, Banana, And Pineapple.

ANTIPILING

TEXLOOP RECYCLED FIBER

AGRALOOP BIOFIBRE

OTHER NATURAL/ RECYCLED FIBER

1

ORBITAL

HIGH STRENGTH

WOVEN FABRICS

4

2 WICKING + FAST DRY

3

KNITTED FABRICS

5

In Addition To The Unique Natural Fiber Moisture Management, Knit And Woven Fabrics Made With Orbital Are Anti-Pilling, Reduced Synthetic Fiber Fragment Release, And Easy-Care For OnThe-Go Functionality.

REDUCED SHEDDING

PRE + POST POST - INDUS CONSUMER TRIAL

COLLECT WASTE STREAMS

1

PRE PROCESSING

2

MECHANICAL RECYCLING

3

CONSUMER

8

SHOPPERS

7

COLOR & COMPOSITION

SHREDDING

6

FIBER ELONGATION

ORBITAL OPEN-END HYBRID YARN &RING

BARND / RETAILER

TEXLOOP

4

5

Texloop Recycling Is A Revolutionary Global Platform That Reclaims Natural And Synthetic Fibers From Post-Industrial, Pre-Consumer, And Post-Consumer Textile Waste.

FASHION

GARMENT MANUFACTURING CUTTING

YARN SPINNING

Orbital Hybrid Yarns Create High-Quality Materials With High-Performance, Using Organic And Recycled Fiber Inputs. Orbital’s PatentPending Technology Produces Inherent Wicking And Fast Dry Performance Materials, Even With 50%-70% Natural Fiber Composition, Eliminating The Need For Chemical Finishes To Create HighPerformance Fabrics.

SEWING

FABRIC MILLING KNITS

WOVENS

Our “Lightest-Touch™” Processing Strategies Help Preserve Maximum Embedded Energy In Recycled Materials. Texloop Allows True Upcycling Of Complex Textile Waste Streams, Putting Them Back In Play For More Fashion Fun.

PROCESS OF RECYCLING FABRIC

1.COLLECTION 2.DRY PROCESSING 3. WET PROCESSING 4.YARN SPINNING 5. FABRIC SPINNING 6. GARMENT MANUFACTURING

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

FURTHER DEVELOPMENT OF ORIGAMIS WITH FABRIC

AFTER MODELLING THE STRAWBERRY VERSION, I DECIDED TO CREATE APPLE VERSIONS INSPIRED BY CANDIED APPLES, I ALSO DID THIS IN ORIGAMI STYLE AND BORROWED TECHNIQUES FROM THE PREVIOUS MODEL. THIS MODEL ALSO OPENS AND CLOSES.

PLEASE REFER TO MODEL

COMBINING THE MODELS FOR SPATIAL OUTCOME

THIS MODEL PRESENTS THE FINAL OUTCOME OF ALL THE MODELS JOINT TOGETHER. HOW THEY ARE ONCE THE THREAD IS PULLED AND PUSHED BACK OUT. THIS GIVES AN OUTCOME OF A WHOLE WHICH WILL HELP DESIGNING THE STRUCTURE.

DEVELOPING MODEL OF STRAWBERRY PART 3 ( CARDBOARD AND FABRIC)

REPETITIVE COLLAGE OF MODELS TO SYMBOLISE THE WIND-SOCKS

IDEA OF PERSUADING PEOPLE TO DONATE WITH PAPER LEAFLETS.

MODEL STARTING TO BECOME A STRUCTURE WITH FAVRIC.

WINDSOCK, FROM THE CHAPTER TO REPRESENT THE CALL FOR THE CITY.

THIS COLLAGE PRESENTS THE IDEA OF A FABRIC CITY IN WHICH THE FABRIC THAT ARE RE MANUFACTURED ARE DISPLAYED TO THE PUBLIC IN AN IDEA OF EXHIBITION. THE WINDSOCKS ARE WHAT CALL THE CITIZENS AND LET THEM KNOW OF THE ‘CITY’. THE PAPERS FLYING BY ARE THE LEAFLETS TO THE CITY TO ASK PEOPLE TO CONTRIBUTE.

PLEASE REFER TO COLLAGE

EXHIBITING CLOTHES

INITIAL ELEVATION OF BUILDING

4

3

2

1

5

1. EXHIBITING THE FABRIC 2. BAGGING AREA 3. STORAGE 4. HOT AIR BALLOON

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

EXPLORING BATTARSEA 0

50

100

150

200

2 3

4

1

5

1. BATTERSEA PARK 2. RIVER THAMES 3. BATTERSEA POWER STATION 4. NEW COVENT GARDEN MARKET 5. NINE ELMS SUNDAY MARKET

250

300

350

400

450

500

THE FESTIVAL OF BRITAIN PLEASURE GARDENS – BATTERSEA PARK

SPATIAL ATMOSPHERE DRAWING @A1

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

INITIAL SECTION INSPIRED BY MARKETS

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

DYING FABRIC FOR SYMBOL

1

2

1.COLLECTION OF WASTED FLOWERS AND POMEGRANATE 2.TIEING IT UP 3. STEAM 4.READY

3

4

START OF PROCESS OF COLLECTING AND STORING FRUIT

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

INITIAL COLLAGE OF DRAWINGS

TRAIN LINES HEADING OUTSIDE LONDON

FIGURE 2 PRESENTS THE TRAIN LINES THAT CONNECT TO OUTSIDE LONDON. IT PRESENTS MAJOR TRAIN LINES.

THE GROSNEVOUR RAILWAY BRIDGE WILL BRING WASTE FROM ALL AROUND THE UK, TO MINIMUSE MORE CARBON DAMAGE. THIS WAY IT WILL BE AS SUSTAINABLE AS IT CAN GET, INSTEAD OF VANS GOING AROUND TO BRING WASTE TO THE BUILDING.

EUSTON PADDINGTON WATERLOO

KINGS CROSS MARYLEBONE ST PANCRAS

WATERLOO LIVERPOOL STREET LONDON BRIDGE VICTORIA

TRAIN LINES HEADING OUTSIDE LONDON NEAR SITE 1:4000 PLAN @A2

0.5

SITE

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5KM

SITE ANALYSIS

7

1 3

4

2

6

8

5

1. SITE 2. GROSVENOR RAILWAY BRIDGE 3. CHELSEA BRIDGE 4.RIVER THAMES 5.BATTERSEA PARK 6. PRIVATE APARTMENTS 7. RANELAGH GARDENS 8. BATTERSEA POWER STATION 9. SURROUNDING SITE AREA

0

10

20

50

100

Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

CHAPTER 1 DEVELOPING MASTS, SAIL AND CANDIED STRAWBERRIES

ROOF PLAN PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

TESTING OF DIFFERENT ENTRY POINTS CONNECTING TO CHELSEA BRIDGE

INITIAL IDEA OF THE TOWER

INITIAL IDEAS FROM SKETCHBOOK

REFERENCES

RUTH ASAWA

MRINALINI MUKHERJEE

THE SELFRIDGES YELLOW BAGS ARE ICONIC DUE TO THE BRIGHTNESS OF THE COLOUR, IT IS NO WONDER THAT THE YELLOW BAGS ARE USED AS STATEMENT WHEN ONE WALKS DOWN THE ROAD. THE SYMBOL OF THIS PRESENTS A WIDER CONCEPT TO MY DESIGN OF HOW COLOURS COULD ALSO BE DISPLAYED. AS WELL AS HOW COLOURS HAVE AN IDEA OF HOPE AND HOW THIS CAN BE DISPALYED WITHIN MY DESIGN MOVING ON. THE BAGS ALSO HOLD A STRONG POSITION IN TERMS OF THEY ARE VERY EYE CATCHY DUE TO THIS IT MAKES THE MARKETTING SMART AS THIS IS TO PRESENT THE BIGGER IDEA OF THE COMPANY,

THE YELLOW UMBRELLA MOVEMENG STARTED IN 2014 WHEN THE ACTIVITS DEMANDED THE RIGHT FOR THE TERRITORY TO PICK ITS OWN LEADERS. THE YELLOW RIBBON, WHICH HAS BEEN USED TO REPRESENT WOMEN’S SUFFRAGE, WAS ADOPTED EARLY

BY THE MOVEMENT. ACTIVISTS ADORNED STREET RAILINGS AND BARRICADES WITH THESE, PINNED THEM ON SHIRTS, AND USED THEM ON FACEBOOK PROFILES. USE OF THE SYMBOLIC YELLOW CROSSED OVER INTO THE UMBRELLAS. THIS POLITICAL STATEMENT OF THE COLOUR YELLOW ALSO INSPIRES ME MOVING ON WITH MY PROJECT AND AS A STATEMENT OF RED.

STRUCTURE PLANNING

THE SKELETON OF THE BUILDING

DETAILS

THESE IMAGES PRESENT THE SKELETON OF MY BUILDING, HOW IT WOULD STAND WITHOUT THE EXTRA AND EXTERIOR LAYERS. THIS WILL BE DEVELOPED BY ADDING FABRIC AROUND AND STITCHING IT IN ORDER TO SEE DIFFERENT STITCHING METHODS ETC.

CHRISTO - WRAPPED OBJECTS 1961-1962

THE STRUCTURE OF THE BUILDING

THE STRUCTURE OF THE BUILDING

TESTING FABRIC

THESE ARE MY INITIAL TESTING OF FABRIC BEING WRAPPED AROUND THE STRUCTURE. tIS WAS DONE

BY SPREADING A FABRIC AND STITCHING TO A CERTAIN DEGREE IN ORDER TO COVER THE BODY. THIS WAS NOT A SUCCESSFUL TESTING AS THE FABRIC DID NOT WRAP AROUND PROPERLY DUE THE CHOICE OF MATERIAL. HOWEVER, IT IS A GREAT FIRST START IN ORDER TO UNDERSTAND THE BUILDING EVEN FURTHER AND DEVELOP IT

PLAN ITERATION 0

10

20

50

Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

1 3

2 4

1. COLD ROOM / FRUIT STORAGE 2. WASHING AREA 3. STORAGE 4. STORAGE

100

PLAN ITERATION 0

10

Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

5

9

6

10

7

8

05. DRYING ROOM 06. GARMENT MANUFACTURING 07. TEXTLOOP 08. EXHIBITION 09. YARN SPINNING 10. FABRIC MILLING

20

50

100

PLAN ITERATION @ 1:200

5

5

1. COLD ROOM FOR FRUITS 2. STORAGE FOR FABRIC

1. SORTING FRUITS 2. PLACING FRUITS 3. STORAGE 4. RECYCLING AREA 5. IRONING 6. STEAMING FABRIC 7. STORING FABRIC

DEVELOPING SECTION 1:200

1

4

5

2

6

3

7

FIGURE 17

POLYPROPYLENE Originally developed in 1951 by Phillips Petroleum, the creation of

VARIETIES

PROS

CONS

1.

•

Inexpensive

•

Enables high temperature applications

•

A very high flexural quality

•

Likely to UV light

•

Resistance to moisture

•

Difficult to paint

•

Impactful strength

•

Low bonding properties

•

A very high resistance to electricity

•

Highly flammable

•

Good insulator for electricity

•

Easily repairable

•

Decent to good fatigue resistance

WOVEN

Polypropylene was an result of an accident whilst in the works of making gasoline from propylene. Simply, Polypropylene is a thermoplastic polymer

2.

WATERPROOF

polypropylene textile material. Polypropylene has different properties but the main quality is the factor of it being a light fiber.

BREATHABILITY

HIGHLY BREATHABLE

HEAT RETENTION

MEDIUM LEVEL

STRETCH ABILITY

VERY HIGH

MOISTURE

VERY HIGH

WATER RESISTANT

WATERPROOF

POLYETHYLENE Polyethylene very similar to Polypropylene is a synthetic fiber which holds

3.

NON - WOVEN

1

2

3

VARIETIES

PROS

CONS

1.

•

Impactful strength

•

Producing takes energy

•

Water Resistant

•

Takes long to break down

•

Electric insulator

•

Method of disposal - incineration

•

HDPE - can be recycled

•

Low weather resistance

•

Corrosion resistant

•

Cracks through Stress

•

Easy to clean

•

Eco-friendly

•

Economical

WOVEN

bases of petroleum. The thermoplastic materiality of the fabric is made of various crystalline structures, this is mostly achieved through petroleum

2.

TRANSLUCENT

plastics. The properties of the fabric has olefin fiber which is known to made from polyolefin. Polyethylene is very famous in fashion.

3.

4.

BREATHABILITY

BREATHABLE

HEAT RETENTION

ABSORBENT

STRETCH ABILITY

NOT STRETCHABLE

MOISTURE

HOLDS IN MOISTURE

WATER RESISTANT

YES

VINYL Discovered by Eugen Baumann in 1872 who was a German chemist and

NON - WOVEN

REINFORCED

1

2

PROS

CONS

1.

•

Durable

•

Hard to repair

•

Water Resistant

•

Very prone to crack

•

Resistance to moisture

•

Versatile

•

Very easy to clean

•

Flame retardant

•

Moisture absorbent

•

Abrasion

MARINE-GRADE VINYL

2.

NON-EXPANDED VINYL GRADE

covers, military clothing as well as tents. Vinyl is known to be good for industrial uses, this is due to the low power use.

BREATHABILITY

NO

HEAT RETENTION

MEDIUM LEVEL

STRETCH ABILITY

NO

MOISTURE

YES

WATER RESISTANT

WATERPROOF

4

VARIETIES

was developed by Waldo Semon in 1920s by using additives. Vinyl fabric is mostly created of synthetic bases and is usually used for fire protective,

3

1

2

NYLON Nylon belongs to a family of synthetic poly material. Unlike the previous

VARIETIES

PROS

CONS

1.

•

Lightweight

•

Static

•

Easy to clean

•

Low resistance to sun

•

Fast Drying

•

Sensitive to heat

•

Resilient

•

Medium strength

•

Insulating properties

•

Pre-coloring available

•

Absorbency

WATERPROOF

fabrics mentioned, Nylon are completely synthetic. This means that Nylon have no organic material as a base. The popularity of the fabric

2.

RIPSTOP

after 1945 synthetic fibres were produced 25 percent in the fashion industry. This was also the case for textile market share.

BREATHABILITY

LOW BREATHABLE

HEAT RETENTION

MEDIUM LEVEL

STRETCH ABILITY

VERY HIGH

MOISTURE

MEDIUM

WATER RESISTANT

MEDIUM LEVEL WATERPROOF

POLYESTER Similar to Nylon, Polyester is also a synthetic fabric. The bases of

1

2

VARIETIES

PROS

CONS

1.

•

Cheap

•

Environmental concerns

•

Durable

•

Flammable

•

Elasticity

•

Not comfortable

•

Moisture-wicking

•

Heat resistant

•

UV resistant

•

Easy to take care of

COTTON

Polyester are usually from petroleum. Polyester is one of the world’s most popular fabric in the textile industry. The fabric is primarily is polymer. Some are derived from ethylene. Some are biodegradable polyesters however this is not the case for all of them.

BREATHABILITY

VERY BREATHABLE

HEAT RETENTION

MEDIUM

STRETCH ABILITY

MEDIUM

MOISTURE

HIGH

WATER RESISTANT

NO

ACRYLIC Acrylic have bases of synthetic polymer known as acrylonitrile. This is

1

VARIETIES

PROS

CONS

1.

•

Lightweight

•

Med weak

•

Washable

•

Low absorbency

•

Resilient

•

Retains shape

•

Wool-like

•

Cotton-like

•

Resists shrinkage

•

Dyes

WOOL

produced through reaching various coal based chemicals and this is done with certain monomers. This results in acrylic fabric a fossil fuel-

2.

COTTON

based component. It is usually chosen for heat-retention processes.

This can be seen with Acrylic designed for athletic equipment.

BREATHABILITY

LOW

HEAT RETENTION

HIGH

STRETCH ABILITY

HIGH

MOISTURE

HIGH

WATER RESISTANT

MEDIUM TO HIGH WATERPROOF

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2

THE INFORMATION DISPLAYS THE HEIGHT, WIDTH AND LONGEST SPAM OF BOTH BRIDGES AS WELL AS VALID INFORMATION ON DIFFERENT TIDE LEVELS IN THE MONTH OF FEBRUARY. DUE TO FEBRUARY BEING TRANSITION MONTH INTO SPRING THE TIDE LEVELS STAY APPROXIMATELY THE SAME IN THE MONTH OF MARCH. THIS IS A KEY FACTOR TO CONSIDER ON WHY THE STRUCTURE OF MY BUILDING IS DESIGNED AT A TALLER SCALE.

TOTAL LENGTH

285.5 m

WIDTH

54 m

LONGEST SPAN

53.3 m

East Facing Elevation Scale: 1:1000 @A2

GROSVENOUR RAILWAY BRIDGE 22 Feb

23 Feb

24 Feb

25 Feb

20.02.2022

26 Feb

6.37m 0.20m

05:24 am 6.22m

6:03 am 6.1m

06:50 am 6.9m

7:51 am 5.6m

9:19 am 5.38m

05.48 pm 6.9m

6:30 pm 5.64m

07:21 pm 5.34m

8.32 pm 5.07m

10:14 pm 5.04m

High Tides 12:12 am 0.88m

12.41 am 0.93m

1:15 am 0.96m

2:01 am 1.05m

3:06 am 1.2m

12.25 pm 0.46m

12:52 pm 0.51m

1:30 pm 0.62m

2:23 pm 0.88m

3:47 pm 1:14m

Hi/Lo

Time

Height

HIGH

03:45

6.28m

LOW

11.01

0.20m

HIGH

16.02

6.37m

LOW

23.11

0.75m

Low Tides

TOTAL LENGTH

213 m

WIDTH

20 m

LONGEST SPAN

101 m

East Facing Elevation Scale: 1:1000 @A2

CHELSEA BRIDGE 6.37m 0.20m

22 Feb

23 Feb

24 Feb

25 Feb

26 Feb

20.02.2022

05:25 am 6.1m

6:04 am 6.1m

06:51 am 6.9m

7:52 am 5.6m

9:20 am 5.38m

05.49 pm 6.9m

6:31 pm 5.64m

07:22 pm 5.34m

8.33 pm 5.07m

10:15 pm 5.04m

High Tides 12:13 am 0.88m

12.42 am 0.93m

1:16 am 0.96m

2:02 am 1.05m

3:07 am 1.2m

12.26 pm 0.46m

12:53 pm 0.51m

1:31 pm 0.62m

2:24 pm 0.88m

3:48 pm 1:14m

Low Tides

Hi/Lo

Time

Height

HIGH

03:46

6.28m

LOW

11.02

0.20m

HIGH

16.03

6.37m

LOW

23.12

0.75m

INITIAL IDEA

09

10

11

12

transpiration

13 01 EXTERIOR

02 03 04 05

01 - Abrasion Resistant Outer Shell 02 - Protection 03 - Gore Tex Membrane

INTERIOR

transpiration

04 - Protection 0.5 - Soft Inner Liner

06 - Fabric

06 07

07 - Appov Barrier

08

14

15

08 - Breathable Membrane

WHILST STILL FIGURING OUT HOW THE FABRIC WOULD OPEN AND CLOSE, I HAVE INVESTIGATED THE DETAILING OF THE FABRIC AND HOW MANY LAYERS I WOULD NEED. FOR THIS I HAVE LOOKED AT THE TECHNOLOGY OF A JACKET. MOST OUTDOOR JACKETS ARE WATERPROOF HOWEVER THEY ARE ALSO KNOWN TO ALLOW BODY HEAT OUT. THIS IN COMPARISON TO THE DESIGN OF THE ROOF IS VERY USEFUL AS THE SAME TECHNOLOGY WILL BE APPLIED FOR THE BUILDING’S ROOF. THE SKETCHES ABOVE PRESENT EARLY IDEAS OF HOW THE DETAILS CAN BE, THESE WERE INSPIRED BY LAYERS OF A WATERPROOF JACKET.

16

17

09 - Joint 10 - Catenary Cable 11 - Exterior Layer 12 - Interior Layer 13 - Steel Clamp Plate 14 - Steel Clamp 15 - Pole Column 16 - Innersection Columns 17 - Anchor Based Foundation

DEVELOPING ELEVATION IN 1:200

KUFSTEIN FORTRESS ARENA

1

2

3

1.FABRIC RO0F 2.MECHANISM 3.MECHANISM

SITE MAP 0

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100

Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

1

2

3

1. CHELSEA BRIDGE 2. THAMES 3. GROSVENOUR RAILWAY BRIDGE

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

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Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

1

2

3

B 4

5

A

6

7

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9

A. FRUIT ARRIVAL POINT B. CIRCULATION OF THE SPACE 1. PUBLIC AREA 2. COLD ROOM 3. LIFTS FOR BASKETS 4. SEWING ROOM 5. DRYING ROOM 6. DRYING STEAMED FABRIC 7. STEAM ROOM FOR DYING PROCESS 8. EXHIBITION AREA 9. ENTRANCE GROUND FLOOR PLAN

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Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

1

B

2

A 3

4

5 6

A

A. FABRIC PULLING MECHANISM B. WASHING ROOM DETAIL 1. LIFTS FOR BASKETS 2. RECYCLING POINT 3. STORAGE SPACE FOR TROLLEYS 4. DRYING AREA 5. SEPARATING ROOM 6. WASHERS

FIRST FLOOR PLAN

MOVING ON FROM THE SAMPLE FABRIC TESTING, I HAVE CARRIED OUT EXPERIMENTATION ON DIFFERENT STITCHING TECHNIQUES IN ORDER TO CAPTURE THE RIGHT APPEARANCE FOR THE ROOF. FOR THIS EXPERIMENT I HAVE USED THE RUNNING STITCHING METHOD. RUNNING STITCHING METHOD IS DONE BY THE NEEDLE RUNNING BACK AND FORTH. ONCE THIS IS DONE THE RECYCLED THREAD WILL BE PULLED OUT IN ORDER TO LEAVE A LOOSE LOOK WHICH WILL BE VISIBLE ON THE BUILDING. ANOTHER REASON WHY THIS STITCHING METHOD WAS CHOSEN WAS BECAUSE ONCE THE THREAD IS PULLED THE FABRIC IS PACKABLE AND THIS MAKES IT VERY USEFUL FOR CHANGING OF THE FABRIC. THIS WAY THE FABRIC WILL BE ABLE TO CHANGE AT ANY MOMENT AS THERE WOULD NOT BE A PROBLEM OF UNPACKING THE FABRIC.

OPENED

ROOF

RUNNING STITCH

PULLED

TO GRAB THE FULLNESS OF THE DRAWING OF THE ROOF, I HAVE EXPERIMENTED THE SHELL SMOCKING TECHNIQUE. THIS TECHNIQUE RESULTS IN A FABRIC MANIPULATION WHICH MAKES THE FABRIC LOOK 3D. THE OUTCOME IS EXACTLY HOW THE ROOF WILL LOOK. THE SHELL SMOCKING TECHNIQUE WAS DONE BY DRAWING GRIDS WHICH WAS NINE INCHES BY NINE INCH AND JUST LIKE THE DIAGRAM SHOWS IT WAS STITCHED BY POINT ONE AND POINT TWO AND LATER

BY DRAGGING FROM ONE POINT TO THE NEXT IN A DOUBLE FOR THE SECOND POINT. THE ONLY PROBLEM WHICH WAS RAISED BY THIS TECHNIQUE IS THAT IT WAS NOT POSSIBLE TO BE ROUND JUST LIKE MY DRAWING. FOR THIS THE STITCHING METHOD ON THE NEXT PAGE WAS EXPERIMENTED. THE FABRIC FOR THE ACTUAL BUILDING WILL BE SEWN WITH A SEWING MACHINE.

B

F

G

E

A C

ROW 1 D

ROW 2

FRONT

ROW 3

POINT ONE AND POINT TWO TO BE STITCHED

LATER BY DRAGGING FROM ONE POINT TO THE NEXT IN A DOUBLE STITCH FOR THE SECOND POINT

BACK

THE GODET TECHNIQUE IS USED EIGHT TIMES AROUND THE FABRICATED ROOF FOR THE OPENING TO HAPPEN EASIER AS MENTIONED THE SHELL SMOCKING TECHNIQUE WAS NOT POSSIBLE TO STITCH IN A CIRCLE AND FOR STRETCHING TO HAPPEN SO THIS IS WHERE GODET IS USEFUL. GODET IS A WIDE DESIGN WITH DIAGONAL MATERIAL INLAYS TO ADD MOTION INTO A FABRIC THE GARMENT HAS A FITTING TOP PORTION AND GODET SECTIONS PLACED AT REGULAR SPACING ALONG THE HEM TO ADD MOVEMENT. THE DIAGRAM PRESENTS HOW THE ROOF PLAN WILL BE STITCHED IN DIFFERENT PATTERN CUTTING. AS WELL AS WHERE IT WILL BE STITCHED.

A D

C

B

OPENED

A - Shell Smocking B - Center C - Running Stich D - Godet Technique

CLOSED

B

C

A

A - Cable B - Fabric C - Internal Cable

EACH WIRE TRUSS IS ATTACHED TO THE FABRIC MEMBRANE. THE MEMBRANES MUST BE DRAGGED FORWARD IN ITS FOLDED STATE SO AS AN ADEQUATE PRETENSIONED PRESSURE CAN BE APPLIED. HOWEVER, SINCE THE BOTTOM POSITION OF THE FABRIC LAYER NEEDS OPERATE STATIONARY IN SUFFICIENT TO PROVIDE PRESTRESSING PRESSURE, A STATIONARY CENTRAL FLYING MAST SUPPORTED BY EXTRA PERIPHERAL WIRES IS REQUIRED. DURING THE ELEVATION OF THE CABLE TRUSS, EVERY LOWEST PART OF ITS MEMBRANE LAYER SHOULD BE LINKED TO THE LIFTING POLE. AS A RESULT, THE WIRE THAT CONTROLS THE LOWER END OF THE MEMBRANE STRIP’S OPERATING CARRIAGE IS NECESSARY ON THE BOTTOM OF SUCH FABRIC MEMBRANE. THE DIRECTING CABLE, THOUGH, ISN’T REPRESENTED IN THE DESIGN SINCE IT IS NOT A FUNDAMENTAL COMPONENT.

OPENED

THE IMAGES ON THIS PAGE PRESENTS THE FABRIC WHEN IT IS FOLDED. THE IMAGES ALSO COMPARE BEFORE AND AFTER SIDE BY SIDE IN ORDER FOR THE UNDERSTANDING OF HOW THE FABRIC WILL LOOK WHEN IT IS FOLDED AND WHEN IT IS NOT. FOR THIS MODEL I HAVE USED LEFTOVER WOODEN PIECES I HAD AS I DID NOT WANT TO PURCHASE NEW MATERIALS. FOR THIS REASON THE MODEL HAS BEEN MADE OUT OF WOOD HOWEVER THE STRUCTURE ITSELF IS A RECYCLED STEEL.

FOLDED

TO FURTHER DEVELOP THE EXPERIMENTS, I HAVE CREATED THIS EXPERIMENTAL MODEL IN ORDER TO UNDERSTAND HOW THE PREVIOUSLY STITCHED SHELL SMOCKING TECHNIQUE WOULD ADJUST TO OPENING AND CLOSING. THE EXPERIMENT HAS BEEN COMPLETELY SUCCESSFUL AS THE WAY THE ROOF PLAN DRAWING IS DISPLAYED IS EXACTLY HOW THE MODEL IS PRESENTED. USING A PHYSICAL SAMPLE REPRESENTING ONE TWELFTH OF THE CEILING, GRADUAL EXPANDING OF THE FABRIC LAYER IS STUDIED. ITS GEOMETRICAL ARRANGEMENT WAS MODIFIED AS WELL AS THE FABRIC LAYER IS TENSIONED. TO CORROBORATE THE THEORETICAL VIEWS AND GAIN A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE PROCESSES OF FOLDING THE FABRIC MEMBRANE, A STRUCTURAL MODEL OF ONE TWELFTH OF THE CEILING WERE MADE. ANOTHER ONE THE MOST BASIC CONCEPTS WAS TO COMPRESS THE MEMBRANE LAYER THAT MATCH THE SHAPE OF BOTH THE RADIAL BEAMS. BECAUSE THE MARGIN IS CURLED INSIDE THE CENTRE AND COVERED, AND LENGTH OF THE CEILING IN THE CORE IS TWICE OF THE LENGTH OF THE MEMBRANE STRIP IF ONE LINEAR MEMBRANE BAND IS STRETCHED ALL ALONG TWO ADJOINING LINE SEGMENTS AS SHOWN IN THE PHOTOGRAPHS.

OPENED

CLOSED

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Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

A - Roof B - Cables C - Chelsea Bridge D - Fabric Pullers E - Grosvenour Railway Bridge F - Tensioner G - Entrance

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

CLOSED ROOF PLAN

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

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Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

A - Roof B - Cables C - Chelsea Bridge D - Fabric Pullers E - Grosvenour Railway Bridge F - Tensioner G - Entrance

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

OPEN ROOF PLAN

PLEASE REFER TO DRAWING

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Site: River Thames Scale: 1:500

C

A - High Tide B - Low Tide C - Tech Focus Roof

A

B

SECTIONAL COLLAGE

FINAL DRAWING