Page 1

AED 30 KWD 2.5 QAR 30

S I G N É


T

H

E

A

R

T

O

F

Big Bang Ferrari. Titanium case inspired by the brands’ iconic lines. In-house UNICO chronograph. Interchangeable strap with a patented attachment. Limited edition of 1000 pieces.

F

U

S

I

O

N


hublot.com


THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THE BEST

WE ARE VOTED THE “BES T BUSINESS CL ASS ONBOARD CATERING” A G A IN AT T HE 2 017 S K Y T R A X PA S S E N GE R S C HOIC E AWA R D S

T UR K I S H A IR L INE S .C OM


BES T LOUNGE, CHOSEN BY YOU WE ARE VOTED THE “BEST BUSINESS CLASS AIRLINE LOUNGE” AND FOR THE THIRD YEAR IN A ROW THE “BEST BUSINESS CLASS LOUNGE DINING” AT T HE 2 017 S K Y T R A X PA S S E N GE R S C HOIC E AWA R D S

T UR K I S H A IR L INE S .C OM


TIMEPIECES OF DISTINCTION The L.U.C collection, handcrafted since 1860 for distinguished gentlemen. A truly individual statement in time.

L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE (161942-5001), MANUFACTURE CALIBRE L.U.C 01.05-L AUTOMATIC


Publishers’ letter AED 30 KWD 2.5 QAR 30

Edition 28

ART OF THE CRAFT Our year-end edition throws light on the distinction between luxury and everything else – the artisanal touch. Stories such as the Dolce and Gabbana Made to Measure service, Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird, Alessa Jewellery and Moreschi all point out the fact that the true measure of luxury will always be the quality of skilled craftsmanship behind each piece. Our cover story highlights the work that goes behind the beautiful horological masterpieces from Hermes. From the exceptional material to the skilled artisanship, these masterpieces reinforce the status of the Maison as one of the finest purveyors of the luxury craft. With Dubai Watch Week 2017 just around the corner, we’ve put together a guide that helps you map your journey through the event and make the most of it. This time around the edition has a new purpose-built venue located inside of DIFC and has an impressive line-up of speakers and watch launches that reinforce the significance of the event in bringing the watch industry together. We had the pleasure of two unique drive experiences for this edition. We had the privilege of driving the luxury SUV of the moment, the Maserati Levante off the highway and into the dunes for a most exciting off-road session. We also had a chance to experience the highly scenic Marmaris, in Turkey with the new Volvo XC60. As always, enjoy the read.

Daniel & Sunaz

Cover Illustration Nujoomi Denjypady

www.signemagazine.com EDITORIAL Publisher Daniel Giacometti Editor-in-Chief Sunaz Sharaf sunaz@signemagazine.com Associate Editor Mehdi Mabrouk Art Director Nujoomi Denjypady COMMERCIAL INQUIRIES sales@signemagazine.com MEDIA REPRESENTATIVE Fierce International Business Central Tower A Dubai Media City P.O.Box 502979, Dubai U.A.E Tel: +9714 421 5455 Tarek@fierce-international.com PUBLISHED BY ALTA VERBA FZ LLC 17, The Iridium Building, Umm Suqeim Road, Al Barsha P.O.Box 391186, Dubai U.A.E Tel: +9714 360 3498 info@signemagazine.com Published under licensing from

All rights reserved. No part of the material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means, without written permission from the Publisher. SIGNÉ does not take any responsibilities for incorrect information. The advertising appearing within this publication reflects the opinion and attitudes of their respective brands and not necessarily those of the Publisher or SIGNÉ.

ISSN 2410-4523


MB&F HM7 “Aquapod”

Frank Buchwald Nixie Machine II

Quentin Carnaille Apesanteur Z

MB&F LM1 “M.A.D. Dubai”

How about a visit to Alserkal? Al Serkal Avenue, Street 8 Al Quoz 1, Dubai, U.A.E.

A MEMBER OF SEDDIQI HOLDING

WWW.MADGALLERY.AE


Scholars 18

WATCHMAKING LEGEND Signé tells you more about the journey of the genius watchmaker, Roger Dubuis.

Selections

Savoir faire

50

34

MASCULINE BLEND

THE MEASURE OF EXCELLENCE

20

CELEBRATION OF TIME Hosted at a purpose-built venue within DIFC, The Dubai Watch Week is back for its third and larger than ever 2017 edition.

A look at the heart and soul of Dolce & Gabbana, its Made to Measure department.

THE DESIGN MAESTRO Signé sits down with Zaim Kamal, Creative Director at Mont Blanc to discuss the intricacies of design at the Maison.

A piece made for discerning collectors, the Tropical Bird Repeater is part of a long history at Jaquet Droz.

ON THE RISE The Swatch Group continues to push the watchmaking industry’s boundaries.

Signé looks back at the busy and creative life of French businessman, Pierre Bergé.

20

FRAGRANCE SELECTION

The contemporary yet classical nature of Moreschi creates a unique mix of tradition and innovation.

56

BEYOND APPEARANCES A closer look at Corneliani’s Fall Winter 2017 collection.

THE NOBLE FIBRE

THE MAN BEHIND SAINT LAURENT

54

Signé puts together some of the seasons most iconic fragrances.

46

32

A curated selection of skincare products by AESOP.

42

MADE IN ITALY

30

52

EXPERIMENTS IN GENEROSITY

40

THE MASTERPIECE

26

Boss bottled is back with a new campaign following the success of the first Man of Today activation.

This year marks the 47th edition of the annual Ermenegildo Zegna Mohair Trophy competition, established to select and award the finest quality mohair fibre.

40

60

INSPIRED BY BEAUTY Alessa presents a creative collection blending precious metals and rare gemstones.

56


Hugh Jackman and the new TimeWalker Chronograph The new TimeWalker Chronograph is inspired by performance and the spirit of racing. montblanc.com/timewalker Crafted for New Heights.


Obsession

La Dolce Vita

78

98

Phillips, The World Market Leader in Watch Auctions, Sets New World Record for a Wristwatch at Auction.

Hublot and Cheval Blanc Randheli unveil their latest collaboration, a new Classic Fusion special edition.

80

100

The Chopard Classic Rally makes its way into Dubai.

Apreamare revives one of Italy’s most famous boats, the Gozzo.

84

102

FUSION OF TIME AND ART

THE ONE AND ONLY

LIFE AT SEA

TIME OF THE DESERT

Art & Design

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

62

Signé puts the 2018 Maserati Levante to the test in the UAE desert.

Marrakesh pays tribute to one of its most famous guest, Yves Saint-Laurent.

90

66

MB&F presents the latest addition to the Legacy Machine collection, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement.

MERCI SAINT LAURENT

TIME MACHINE

RAW BEAUTY Specializing in exquisitely crafted tableware, table accessories and home décor, L’OBJET is a luxury and lifestyle brand to watch.

70

THE TRENDSETTER Chef Joe Barza has over 25 years of experience and has helped raise the profile of Middle Eastern cuisine.

Heritage

108

THE ETERNAL CITY

A STORY OF INNOVATION

Signé explores the long-lasting relationship between Hermès and watchmaking.

Discovering a country is always better when you take the roads less travelled. We went to Turkey behind the wheel of the new Volvo XC60.

106

94

OBJECTIFYING TIME

ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN

In 2017, the brand Favre-Leuba can already look back to a history spanning 280 years.

Signé heads to Italy to discover one of Rome’s most exclusive properties and sit down with one of the world’s leading chefs.

112 70

84

THE CUISINE OF THE SUN Signé sits with Chef Chris Galvin to discover more about his second UAE venture, Galvin Dubai.

114

SWEETH TOOTH Dubai welcomes chef Thomas Keller and his Bouchon Bakery.

116

PERFECT AFTER WORK The Powder Room is a hidden gem in the heart of DIFC, Signé takes a closer look.

100


FIRST MOVERS WILL ALWAYS CHANGE THE WORLD. BUT WHICH ONE? >> Discover our approach at juliusbaer.com/visionary-thinking

Julius Baer is the leading Swiss private banking group and present in some 50 locations worldwide. From Dubai, Frankfurt, Geneva, Guernsey, Hong Kong, London, Lugano, Monaco, Montevideo, Moscow, Nassau, Singapore to Zurich (head office).


S C H O L A R S · WAT C H M A K I N G L E G E N D

WATCHMAKING LEGEND Roger Dubuis, the founder of the eponymous brand, died in October at the age of 80; Signé tells you more about the journey of this genius watchmaker At an early age, Roger Dubuis knew that he was meant to be a watchmaker. At the age of 12, as a schoolboy, he wound the city’s clock and assiduously frequented the workshop of a local watchmaker. Enrolled at the prestigious Geneva Watchmaking School, he was passionate about the most complicated mechanisms. He began his career in the complications department of Patek Philippe, where he worked for fourteen years. The Roger Dubuis journey began with a meeting between a visionary watchmaker, Roger Dubuis, and a talented designer Carlos Dias. To distinguish itself from century-old watch companies, the DubuisDias tandem created high-end watches combining innovation technicality, precision and visionary design, a vision brought to life by the company’s first collections Tribute and Sympathy. “When I founded the factory in 1995, I wanted to create a watch that shows my gratitude to my teachers, my friends and all those who helped me in learning and perfecting my art,” said the watchmaker. The Maison quickly became a reference for its work on complications such as tourbillons and double flying tourbillons as well as perpetual calendars. The company participated in the advent of skeleton movements with contemporary architecture. Since 1999, each piece leaving the Roger Dubuis manufacture is stamped

18

with the seal of the Hallmark of Geneva, which attests its precision and high quality. Roger Dubuis was already a successful manufacture after only a few collections, but the tandem knew that the recognition of the watchmaking world would come with the development of their own movements. Established in Geneva, the manufacture reinforced its independence by developing its own spiral balance, in 2003. Since 2005, Roger Dubuis timepieces are manufactured in a luxurious building located in Geneva, equipped with the most advanced machines: this is where teams work to design technical innovations. With surprising speed, Roger Dubuis developed thirty exclusive calibers, six of which were presented in 2006 at the SIHH in Geneva. “I wanted a Genevan business, a Genevan product. As I had a specific idea, an interest in the history of past watches, it was a qualitative element that I wanted to see endure in the house. But at the same time, I found it important to encourage creativity,” explained Roger Dubuis, in an interview. In 2008, the company became a subsidiary of the luxury group Richemont. Two years later, the factory redefined its policy by focusing even more on quality. Controls are strengthened to ensure the highest level of accuracy. At present, all Roger Dubuis watches meet the criteria of the chronometer certification COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Control), and also

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

that of the Hallmark of Geneva, Poinçon de Genève. The pace of technical innovation in the brand is still buoyant with the launch of four new movements: the “openwork tourbillon,” the visible micro-rotor, the automatic chronograph and the “butterfly” date indicator. In 2013, the watchmaking company announced the return of the master watchmaker to the manufacture that bears his name. “I am happy and moved at the same time to find myself in the walls of this manufacture to which I have given everything, my passion, and my name, and to accompany the project of renewal of this remarkable house,” he said then “I see a bright future for our house. For me, the strong values that made and are the strength of the brand are always respected. “ Quality, design, creativity, and exclusivity these are the four criteria on which the Roger Dubuis house was founded, four principles that it still follows today, 22 years after its inception. Among the technical prowess of the brand is the integration of the perpetual calendar, minute repeater and double tourbillon in its Excalibur model, flagship of Roger Dubuis, to its collections. “The death of Roger is a great loss for us all and for the entire watch community, said the brand at the announcement of his death on Friday, October 13, 2017. “His recognized expertise in fine watchmaking, his vision avant-garde, his human values will remain close to us.”


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

19


S C H O L A R S · C E L E B R AT I O N O F T I M E

CELEBRATION OF TIME Hosted at a purpose-built venue within DIFC, The Dubai Watch Week is back for its third and larger than ever 2017 edition.

Held under the Patronage of Her Highness Sheikha Latifa Bint Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice Chairman of Dubai Culture & Arts Authority; The Dubai Watch Week will be held for the third time this year. Just like the 2016 edition, which has clearly found its format, its style, and its cruising speed, watch enthusiasts will be able to attend a whole series of conferences, watch exhibitions, watchmaking workshops and much more. “Launched in 2015 by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Dubai Watch Week is a global platform dedicated to the preservation of horological culture and heritage by creating one of the largest non-commercial events for the international watch community; providing an intimate environment for collectors, brands, watchmakers and the members of the media to interact and share knowledge,” says Melika Yazdjerdi – Director, Dubai Watch Week and Senior Marketing & Communication Director, Seddiqi Holding. Bringing together some of the world’s most famous watch brands as well as some of the most influential personalities in the industry, the Dubai Watch Week is a celebration of all

20

things watchmaking. The event’s organizers announced the presence of Jean-Claude Biver as well as the launch of several limitededition watches. The DWW is back with significant changes intended to make it even more attractive to watch aficionados. The event will host around sixty brands under the theme of “Classic & Contemporary”; An entire program that aims to explore the evolution of the watch industry by highlighting its past and its know-how, but also its ability to look to the future and incorporate the latest innovations available. Note that this year, in addition to workshops and conferences, visitors can have their watches appraised by a Christie’s specialist and learn how to bid thanks to an auction room set up by the auctioneer. With this third edition, the DWW 2017, Dubai is set to become a reference in the world of luxury watchmaking. BRANDS Leading luxury watch brands such as A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Bulgari, Chopard, Dior, Hublot, Richard Mille, IWC, MB&F, Officine Panerai, Vacheron Constantin and

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

Jaeger-LeCoultre will showcase both new and iconic timepieces during the third edition of Dubai Watch Week 2017. “Once again, Jaeger-LeCoultre is delighted to be part of the innovative Dubai Watch Week that works so diligently in supporting the luxury watch segment. This year, as a nod to the event’s role in promoting the intricacies of fine watchmaking, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Exhibition at Stand Number One will showcase some of our most thrilling and complex pieces. These include our Gyrotourbillons, diamond paved tourbillons, the perpetual calendar, and samples of our Haute Joaillerie. Notable among them will be our iconic Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon, which will be shown in the Middle East for the first time and visitors will be able to view at the forefront of our booth,” highlighted Marc de Panafieu, Brand Director. EXHIBITIONS CLASSIC & CONTEMPORARY EXHIBITION The revival of classical craftsmanship and contemporary techniques will be the focus of the main DWW 2017 exhibition. Visitors will be able to discover the evolution of the watch industry through the presentation of


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

21


S C H O L A R S · C E L E B R AT I O N O F T I M E

22

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


timepieces from heritage and new brands. On display will be vintage timepieces, new models or designs inspired by historical watchmaking or techniques. TELLING TIME EXHIBITION CURATED BY FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE (FHH) Telling Time is the representation of works and timepieces by contemporary artists and designers, which all shares the same desire to tell time. All these pieces mark the passing of the hours, and in doing so remind us of time’s unstoppable march. GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE EXHIBITION The only globally recognized independent international awards for excellence in watchmaking; the “Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève” (GPHG) annual traveling exhibition will enable visitors to discover the competition’s prize-winning models to explore and admire the year’s most exquisite watchmaking creations.

THE MASTERY OF TIME VIRTUAL EXPERIENCE The Mastery of Time is a virtual experience in multiple chapters that puts you at the center of watchmaking’s milestone inventions. Become a sailor in the nineteenth century and plot your position at sea before the invention of GPS; board a steam locomotive with nothing but your pocket watch to keep you running precisely to schedule, locate survivors at sea from your plane and find your way back with a chronometer as your only tool.

INNOVATION & TECHNOLOGY Influencing traditional methodologies What is the impact of innovation on traditional watchmaking techniques? How have new technologies and methods affected the process of creating timepieces? Do traditionalists fear tainting of historical craftsmanship, or can new innovative methods complement the process of classical craftsmanship? What is the perceived difference in the value of the piece that is entirely handmade vs. being made via partial or complete mechanical process?

TALKS ICONS AND CLASSICS – THE HISTORY This panel will showcase a meticulous collection of major horological icons, as well as host a deeply nostalgic elucidation of why they are celebrated timepieces of today. For most, it is the Paul Newman Rolex or the Daytona; the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus or iconic pieces from the personal collection of the most recognizable faces in history. This coveted presentation explores the Watch Hall of Fame and provides the audience a rare glimpse into amazing individuals and stories that inspired the legends.

GRAND COMPLICATIONS An all boys club? Does the world of horology cater to men primarily when deciding who gets the most complicated watch? Market trends show that jewelry brands prioritize women for their target audience, while watch brands design and create complicated timepieces with men in mind. We look at the relationship between watchmakers, Grand complications and the spending power of both genders has which is significantly impacting cultural and gender norms.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

23


S C H O L A R S · C E L E B R AT I O N O F T I M E

Introducing the speakers for Dubai Watch Week 2017 FRANCOIS-PAUL JOURNE FOUNDER, F.P. JOURNE In the exclusive world of haute horology, François-Paul Journe explores the measurement of time for over 33 years with a unique sense of creativity and innovations. Independent contemporary master watchmaker, François-Paul Journe draws on his historical knowledge and expertise to face the most daring horological challenges with passion, conceiving entirely new and innovative calibers with a timeless consistency. At the crossroad between Arts and Haute Horology, benchmark among the most prestigious watch companies, the independent F.P.Journe Manufacture is a world in itself.

FRANCOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS CEO, AUDEMARS PIGUET He started his career at Audemars Piguet and Haute Horlogerie in 1994, in France. In less than three years, he was promoted to lead the brand’s operations in Singapore and took on added responsibility for Audemars Piguet in France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Brunei, Australia, and Malaysia. Not long after, he was presented with a new opportunity to lead and develop the brand in the USA. In 1999, he took on the role of President & CEO of Audemars Piguet (North America), Inc. while advising the Audemars Piguet Group on the development of the South American market including Mexico and the Caribbean. He once again embarked on a new challenge when in May 2012 he assumed the responsibilities of CEO ad Interim of Audemars Piguet, and most recently by becoming Chief Executive Officer in January 2013.

24

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


FABRIZIO BUONAMASS SENIOR DIRECTOR, WATCHES DESIGN CENTER, BVLGARI He began his career at the Centro Stile Fiat in Turin. During this experience, he managed highly complex projects both regarding style and manufacturing. In 2001, driven by the desire to face new challenges and by his lifelong passion for watches, he sent some of his designs to the Bulgari Design Center in Rome. A short time later Mr. Paolo Bulgari, CEO and the creative driver of the brand, invited Fabrizio to Rome to join the Watches Design team. In 2007 he was appointed Bulgari Watches Design Center Director, where his mission is to continually reinterpret Bulgari’s rich stylistic and cultural heritage in a contemporary language in tune with the brand’s DNA.

FELIX BAUMGARTNER FOUNDER, URWERK Felix Baumgartner was born into the world of Haute Horlogerie, the son, and grandson of master-watchmakers. So it was no surprise that from the earliest possible age, he found himself at the workbench, where he learned to fathom the most complicated mechanisms: perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and minute-repeaters. In 1991, at the age of 16, he enrolled at the School of watchmaking of Solothurn, and emerged four years letters with a diploma in his pocket and brimming with the finest ambitions. In 1997, he created URWERK with Martin Frei.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

25


SCHOLARS · THE DESIGN MAESTRO

THE DESIGN MAESTRO Signé sits down with Zaim Kamal, Creative Director at Mont Blanc to discuss the intricacies of design at the Maison Montblanc, the international leader in men’s luxury accessories, has reopened its flagship boutique in Dubai Mall, showcasing the new Neo-concept boutique design currently being rolled out globally. Reflecting the essence of Montblanc as the Maison of Fine Lifetime Companions, the new boutique communicates the true expression of luxury in a relaxed and inviting atmosphere. The immersive space also allows customers to explore the Montblanc story on their own terms and discover the diversity of Montblanc’s product offerings in areas dedicated to each category. Designed by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance, the new boutique concept introduces a pure and uncluttered aesthetic, mixing black, white and wood, and features three main design themes linked to the roots of the Maison. The curved gesture that gives shape to the retail space evokes calligraphy and the culture of writing associated with the Montblanc fountain pen. The emblem, inspired by the snowcap of the Mont Blanc mountain and symbol of the highest standards of perfection, is paired with the ink shades to represent the life and soul of Montblanc, and the desire to always evolve through innovation. Inside the boutique, alongside the black lacquered wall panels, recalling the distinctive Montblanc precious resin, an animated artistic ink flows on large screens. On the day of the official store re-opening, Signéhad the opportunity to sit with Zaim Kamal, creative director for Mont Blanc to discuss the world of design at Mont Blanc under his stewardship.

26

What were your early design influences and what does it mean to be a designer? Design was always a big part of my life because my mother was a fashion designer. I was always surrounded by design, interiors and accessories. I never thought I would move into design because I wanted to go into music or arts like my other siblings. I would say my earliest design influences are drawing. I had an affinity for this and this is how it all started. Whenever there was a piece of paper I used to doodle on it. So this idea of constantly doodling or drawing was something that was with me from an early age. But this does not make me a designer. I realized that for me the process of putting pen on paper and creating something that could be translated into a 3d version, and then replicated was a fascinating and interesting way of approaching work. As a designer, I need to structure and understand what it is I am working on. Today when people see me drawing they say this is talent. But what they don’t know is how much hard work goes into the drawing. Even though I draw every day, if I don’t draw for a week it takes me a few hours to get back into it. And like with every craft, it’s about taking the time, effort and passion for actually learning. You never stop learning, and design is not something you finish learning. It’s something that you develop on a daily basis. Every day you’re learning, whether it’s the way a watch movement works, of new methods of folding leather or understanding how you can hold a writing instrument different, or press the nib to give the ink a different flow. So its these little aspects that you learn on a daily basis.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

27


SCHOLARS · THE DESIGN MAESTRO

For me it’s important that you are never complacent about what you do. Because the moment you are complacent you stop growing and acquiring knowledge, and that is the end of design. How would you define your design philosophy? I think the beauty of design is that you have a challenge, you need to find innovative ways to approach the challenge and come up with a solution. The solution has to be replicable, and it has to have a certain function, and you get to see that work in many guises and have people wearing it and using it. This is where my design philosophy comes in. It starts with understanding how people interact with my product today. How do they use it, how do they play with it, how do they treat it, how do they cherish it. Design is about creating a piece that actually lives with the person and something that the person actually uses. It’s about creating pieces that don’t dictate to you, but you as a wearer define how you want it. It becomes a companion of yours rather than it becoming overbearing. It has to be seamless, tactile and beautiful and bring pride in the ownership. How would you describe the design process at Mont Blanc? I start on a new direction once a year around September. I come up with an idea for a general design concept. I always start from the clients eyes, from the perspective of who I am designing for. What are his or her needs and this gives me a certain direction. Once I have an idea of the topic I present three concepts to the design team. Based on these three concepts each design team from each category such as writing, leather, watches, and accessories works on a collection that fits within their lines. They all sit within the manufacture because it’s very important that designers are not disconnected from the manufacture.

28

They work very closely with the artisans, and they literally sit in the same room, so this allows us to interact on an almost ongoing basis with the artisan. Before Mont Blanc, I would come up with drawings and submit it, and a few months later someone would show up with a prototype. I would look at my prototype and my drawing and wonder where the connection is. Now I can go straight to the movement maker and say we have been asked to design a chronograph with all these functions and we are thinking of designing the case. I find out the movement size and discuss how we can make the case slimmer and give them a challenge. They get working on it, and they come back with what they can do. It’s an iterative way of working, and there is a constant back and forth and this way you ensure that the original design that you had in mind, you are able to find a way to follow it through. I think the connection between the craftsman and design is very important. This is just the way I work because it’s crucial that we work together at every level. It’s not just design that makes a product and it’s not only the movement maker, its how it all comes together. As an analogy, it’s the whole soup that cooks together and its about the right amount and balance of ingredients that you put in so that it tastes good. I think the process of cooking is for me one of the most fascinating ways of creating something because of its subtleties. Sometimes there is that knowledge of the recipe, but then there is also this gut feeling, and you add a pinch of this, and you add a bit more of that. And this is a measure that you just know intuitively. There is a delicate balance, and I think it’s a fascinating way of working and this is how we’ve set it up internally at Mont Blanc.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


We have always worked very closely with the marketing team, and they do a lot of market research. So they tell us what direction to look at such as the trend is moving towards professional watches or maybe towards softer leather and then we try to put that into the overall framework. Then the challenge is to find out how to tie this leather line with the writing instruments and how do I tie the writing instruments with the accessories, and where does the watch come in. So sometimes like I said, they’re running quite close to each other and sometimes the themes can be a little apart but you will find small details that go through the line. At Mont Blanc how much are you driven by trends in the market, including fashion trends? At Mont Blanc, we are aware of what is going on with regards to the seasons, but we are not a fashion Maison. So we really have to think about that first and when we do a new line whether it be writing instruments, or watches we have to always think about it in a three or five years perspective. That makes it more challenging because you need to design a product that is relevant three years from now. Also, what do I need to change in three years’ time when we rethink the design. So we have to think about all these things in advance. I work two years in advance in most categories, so now for instance for watches and writing instruments we are working on the 2019 and 2020 collection already. For us, it’s all about the longevity of the piece. We only incorporate trends or any idea if it has a long-term view. In fashion its easy because if you know that the collection is not a 100-percent, six months later you can start new. These days some fashion cycles are even as short as a few weeks. At Mont Blanc, I have to live with

design decisions for a much longer period. Most design decisions are a three-year decision at least; sometimes it could be even longer. Some of the products that you see in the boutique today were designed at least two years ago. We had to think of how the customers would perceive it in the future. It’s much more challenging, and at the same time, it’s much more fun because you have to be precise. How would you describe the Neo-concept that has been rolled out across the Mont Blanc boutiques? Today brick and mortar stores are where clients can experience what a brand is about. We wanted to create an environment which allows each product category its own stage to speak, yet at the same time allows the client to go on a journey through the Maison and to experience it in his own way. This is why there is a flow, and at the same time, we have these niches and corners. Places where you can sit, touch and feel the products. You have the writers area because writing instruments are things that need to be tried. And there’s the leather, it needs to be touched, watches need to be presented, and you need to feel them as well. The idea was to design an area where the client does not feel intimidated but at the same time experiences the Maison in a very subtle way. The piano black is actually a sign of the Maison from the Meisterstuck days. It’s a precious resin black that serves as a gesture flowing through the boutique. The wood gives some warmth to the design and invites you to look. Sometimes you walk into a store, and there is a lot going on. We wanted it to flow and to be more of an instinctual journey rather than do this first, and then go here next and so on.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

29


SCHOLARS · ON THE RISE

ON THE RISE The Swatch Group continues to push the watchmaking industry’s boundaries. There are very few institutions that can stake a claim on the rise of the Swiss watchmaking industry the way The Swatch Group can. Having turned the mechanical watch industry around in the mid-80’s, the group is no stranger to outperforming the market and has successively recorded optimistic results in the first half of 2017. Net profit rose, and the group confirmed its growth targets for the current financial year and anticipates a promising second half. “We are maintaining our growth forecasts of 7% to 9% in local currencies for 2017,” said SWATCH CEO Nicolas Hayek. In the first six months of the year, Swatch’s Net income increased by 6.8% to 281 million. Operating income also increased by 5.1% to CHF 371 million and the related margin increased by 0.5 percentage points to 10%. The optimism of the group is justified by the pleasing growth of the business, especially during the second quarter. “There is a sharp acceleration of our sales in local currencies from one quarter to the next,” the CEO said. This progression also continued in the first weeks of July, particularly in the luxury segments. In Switzerland, for example, the increase in sales of the group’s distribution network increased from 10% in the first quarter to 21% in the second quarter. In Italy, this advance has evolved from 5% to 10% and in Germany from 1.5% to 5%. China, which is the biggest market for the Biel-based group, has also witnessed this positive trend. Revenue growth was 10% in the second quarter versus 8% from January to March. In the first half of the year, sales in Hong Kong stabilized. Thanks to strong demand from the group’s brands, things are changing. “Our production is already running at full speed in July, and it will certainly be the case the rest of the year,” said Nicolas Hayek. According to the CEO, brands in entry-level like Swatch and Tissot were also growing. Parallel to the very solid performance of Swatch’s stores, distribution through retailers is also expected to accompany this positive development with the gradual dissipation of the uncertainties of some traders, the statement said. Turnover in the Watch and Jewelry segment, excluding production, advanced 2.9% at constant exchange rates. The operating margin

30

increased by 2.5 percentage points to 13.2%. Overall sales in this segment, including production, were up 1.2%. Regarding exchange rates, the industry noted that the easing of the franc against the euro had not as much impact on their sales as the dollar, given the group’s strong presence in the dollar zone and all countries that peg their currency to the dollar. The Swatch Group has always felt a responsibility towards the watchmaking industry. Besides having some of the world’s best watch brands in its portfolio, one of the group’s main objectives is the safekeeping of the watchmaking know-how. Traditional techniques are slowly disappearing, and that is why training is one of the company’s priorities. “The Swatch Group promotes vocational training at all levels. By the end of June 2017, more than 260 graduates received a professional diploma, of which 155 persons completed a regular apprenticeship in Switzerland. In Switzerland, roughly 150 apprentices were newly hired this year, so that the number of trainees in Switzerland is now approximately 450. Abroad, there are currently over 120 trainees, of which more than 60 at Glashütte Original alone. Also, the Swatch Group is training approximately 150 students in its watchmaking schools. Almost all graduates have accepted positions within the Group,” explained the group in a statement. The group is also celebrating several milestones this year. Omega’s Speedmaster is celebrating its 60th anniversary and remains one of the brands absolute best sellers. The brand also launched the “Speedy Tuesday,” a watch inspired by the successful #SpeedyTuesday hashtag Speedmaster fans use online. In the Prestige and Luxury segment, new products accelerated growth into the high double digits. Harry Winston grew not only with its high jewelry collections Lotus Cluster, Art Deco and Sunflower but also with its new most exclusive watch models such as the Midnight Date Moon Phase. Breguet was successful with its new ladies’ watches Tradition and Phase de Lune, and Blancpain with the Villeret and Bathyscaphe collections.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

31


SCHOLARS · THE MAN BEHIND SAINT LAURENT

THE MAN BEHIND SAINT LAURENT Signé looks back at the busy and creative life of French businessman, Pierre Bergé Businessman and patron of the arts, Pierre Bergé, died on September 8, at the age of 86, in Saint-Rémy-deProvence. A figure of the French cultural milieu, he revolutionized French fashion alongside Yves Saint Laurent and became known to the general public for his support of humanitarian and social causes. Born in Saint-Pierre-d’Oléron in 1930, he arrived in Paris at the age of 18 and accidentally met Jacques Prévert, who unexpectedly fell from the balcony of a building. He became friends with the big names of the Parisian literary and cultural scene, from Cocteau to Aragon and Camus. Nourished by libertarian ideals, he also supported Garry Davis’ fight for citizenship across borders, through the short-lived newspaper La Patrie Mondiale, of which he was editor-in-chief. Mentor and companion of Bernard Buffet for eight years, he accompanied the painter in his career. In 1954, Pierre Bergé met Yves Saint Laurent, the successor of Christian Dior. This meeting forever changed the lives of both men.

32

In 1960, Saint Laurent was supposed to join the army for his military service but fell into a deep depression and ended up in the psychiatric ward of the Val-de Grâce hospital. Soon after, the Dior management fired SaintLaurent on the pretext that he did not follow guidelines and that his style bothered longtime customers. Together Bergé and Saint Laurent decided to set up their fashion house, and worked side by side, hatching styles that would dictate the dress codes of an era - from 1966 with the androgynous tuxedo, then in 1967, year of the Saharienne jacket. “Yves Saint Laurent did not like fashion, he liked style,” Bergé often repeated. Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent were never apart and watched over every step of the house’s production. Bergé dealt with the general strategy, but also the smallest details, from ready-to-wear to accessories and perfumes, from the choice of models to Saint-Laurent’s travel arrangements. Building on the worldwide success of Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Bergé became a figure in the world of fashion. He was elected president of the Chambre Syndicale

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

Des Couturiers in 1974 and in 1986 created the Institut Français De La Mode. He was meant to inaugurate in October the Yves Saint Laurent museum in Paris, as well as its Marrakesh counterpart. Businessman enriched by the success and sale of his fashion house, Pierre Bergé was above all a lover of the arts. From 1977 to 1981, he directed the theatre of Athénée and, from 1988 to 1993, presided over the Paris Opera, under the friendly eye of President Mitterrand. Named Grand Patron of arts and culture in 2001, Pierre Bergé supported purchases of paintings in the Louvre, the renovation of two rooms at the National Gallery in London or the Centre Pompidou in Paris. “I am a man who has spent more than half a century ostensibly and visibly accompanying Yves Saint Laurent throughout his life - but not only that. In the past and still today, I have been behind a lot of creators and artists, supporting them and helping them. That’s probably how I see my mission,” he said in one of his last interviews.


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

33


S AV O I R FA I R E · T H E M E A S U R E O F E X C E L L E N C E

THE MEASURE OF EXCELLENCE Made to Measure is the soul of Dolce & Gabbana’s menswear. It is a story of artisan workmanship, a refined study of details, colors, cuts, and styling and a focus on proportions, volumes and fabrics. The Sartoria stands out for its creative flair which seeks to accentuate, right down to the smallest detail, the eccentricity of the man who chooses to wear a Dolce & Gabbana suit. Traditional symbols of masculine elegance such as the tuxedo, morning coat and tails are joined by the pinstriped suit and three-piece suit in Sicilian black, the coat, topcoat, pashmina and long cashmere scarf, the T-shirt and sporty polo shirt. Everything must be worn and chosen to please and satisfy a man’s own sense of style. True elegance is based on a man’s personality, his extravagance and uniqueness that are inimitable and one-of-a-kind.

34

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

35


S AV O I R FA I R E · T H E M E A S U R E O F E X C E L L E N C E

36

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

37


S AV O I R FA I R E · T H E M E A S U R E O F E X C E L L E N C E

38

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


The meticulous choice of sartorial details plays a decisive role in the construction of the garment: seams, buttons, buttonholes and lapels are just some of the elements that define the perfect balance between creativity and technical expertise. The added value of made-to-measure apparel lies in a man’s desire for something special, modern, and eccentric yet tied to the roots of a tradition born within the walls of the workshops of tailors and seamstresses who made the hidden dreams of men and women come true. Embroidery Long and short jackets, sweaters, sweatshirts, and polo shirts are embellished with roses, Baroque-inspired cherubs, and sacred hearts, all symbols of a romantic Sicily and extremely important in the aesthetic imagination of the brand. The ancient petit point technique used to make many of these subjects emphasizes the dreamy and passionate character of the sartorial collections. Another emblem, the Crown, a symbol of excellence, fame and power that also evokes certain moral virtues such as courage,

resourcefulness and strength, is also embroidered on different garments in the collection. The Coat Through its distinctive tailoring, the coat immediately reveals the style and personality of the man wearing it. There are, in fact, many styles -- the overcoat, the coat for day or evening, the kneelength and the ankle-length coat -- that satisfy the need for the perfect garment for any occasion. The Tuxedo The Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo goes beyond classic formalwear: an excellent cut and appropriate choice of fabric must be joined by an extremely refined aesthetic study and a touch of eccentricity. The epitome of glamour and the purest style, the traditional tuxedo – a symbol of masculine elegance – allows its wearer to stand out from everyone else. The Dolce & Gabbana boutique at Mall of the Emirates offers the Made to Measure service for those who want nothing but the best of craftsmanship.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

39


S AV O I R FA I R E · T H E M A S T E R P I E C E

THE MASTERPIECE The Tropical Bird Repeater watch – the only one of its kind in the world – brings together all the watchmaking and decorative expertise of the brand known by its two stars A piece destined for discerning collectors, the Tropical Bird Repeater is part of a long history at Jaquet Droz, honoring the Enlightenment-era passion for nature and animals of founder Pierre Jaquet-Droz. Automatons, along with the Ateliers d’Art, represent two of the eight codes of the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture, hand-decorated here by engravers and miniaturist painters. These codes are indispensable to the creation of this scene with its flamboyant colors that emerge like a lush oasis on a motherof-pearl dial, itself enclosed in a red gold case adorned on the sides of its lugs and on the middle band with an animal motif handengraved by the brand’s craftsmen. A true source of life, the waterfall offers serenity to the blooming tropical flora and fauna. At the heart of this Garden of Eden, its water flows eternally in perfect realistic fashion. In the center, a hummingbird hand-carved and hand-engraved by the Maison’s artists moves towards a shrub of bright orange birds of paradise. A one-of-a-kind animation in watchmaking history, its wings beat up to forty times a second, adding incredible realism to the scene. To the right, a peacock with intense blue feathers veritably opens and closes its tail, while a toucan emerges from the palm leaves at 3 o’clock to open its beak. The dancing flight of three elegant dragonflies, located at 9 o’clock, adds to the magic by day or by night

40

as their tiny SuperLuminova-coated wings glow in the dark. In all, seven animations that may exceed twelve seconds allow for up to 4 different scenarios, all the more striking as they contrast with the suspended background of the scene. Alongside this prowess comes a grand horological complication, the minute repeater, which enables the marking on demand of the hours, quarter hours and minutes via the vibration of cathedral gongs struck by hammers inside the case. A push-piece activates this complex mechanism, which to this day remains the privilege of a handful of brands and collectors who will surely appreciate the innovations of the new Jaquet Droz RMA89 movement. This technical mastery, which can be seen on the pared-down case back, engraved simply with the Numerus Clausus serves to create the feast for the eyes that is the Tropical Bird Repeater. An esthete’s watch limited to 8 unique pieces, the Maison’s tutelary number, it plays on the contrasts between the exuberant dial and the green alligator strap, as well as the onyx dial displaying hours and minutes, magnified by the smooth reflections of the red gold case. The aesthetics render the lively paradise by Jaquet Droz all the more striking: an incredible journey and a new chapter in the history of Jaquet Droz are now in the hands of the wearer.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

41


S AV O I R FA I R E · M A D E I N I TA LY

MADE IN ITALY

Moreschi has defined seven decades of luxury shoemaking. The shoemakers latest F/W 17 collection is a blend of heritage and innovation with an Italian touch The contemporary yet classical nature of Moreschi creates a unique mix of tradition and innovation, resulting in an emphasis on the production process as well as the quality of all raw materials used. The continuous research and development of materials by Moreschi allows unique and flawless collections to be born, which personalize luxury and soft feel, a distinctive feature of the Vigevano-based brand. At the forefront of the F/W 17 collection is the ‘Rock Extra Light’ sole, aptly named due to its 130-gram weight, the sole was developed and designed by the Moreschi team. The Rock Extra Light most importantly offers sublime comfort – soft, stable and functional – which over time perfectly molds around your foot, ensuring walking is nothing but a joyful experience. The Rock Extra Light works in sync with the new Moreschi collection, which involves a feel inspired by the spirit of Scottish Highlands. Each pair within the collection reflects a flawless fusion of shapes, colors, and materials. Classical and well-defined shapes with the addition of innovative and elegant details give more visual distinction to the shoe, on top of the comfort on offer. Within the collection, some of the highlights are the Ankle Boot and the Derby, which both have a particularly round and carefully styled tip thanks to the use of shiny calf leather, contrasting with antique calf leather on the upper half of the shoe. The instep and

42

tongue of the Derby are made of tartan and multicolor laces, adding an eccentric and dynamic twist. While the brands latest collection is a reflection of its modern disposition, the brand has a rich history. Moreschi was founded October 1946 by Mario Moreschi, a man of singular taste and many passions – among which orchestra conductor and pilot of small aircrafts - he was known as a producer of high-quality men’s footwear. The first factory was located at 13 via Mulini in the center of Vigevano employing as its production staff: three trimmers, two aged shoemakers, one cutter, two assemblers, two turners, one grinder and two liners all working in the laboratory. Production numbers at the brand have steadily increased over the last seven decades. In the early 50s manufacturing had reached around 3,000 pairs of shoes a year. In the mid-50s exports to Germany had taken off to the volume of over 5,000 pairs a year. By the end of the 50s, exports had risen to 37% of the company sales, driving production to 14,000 pairs of shoes a year. In line with the growth, the factory then moves to 2 via Madonna Degli Angeli occupying 400 square meters with areas dedicated to cutting, trimming, assembly and lining. By the early 60s exports to the Far East and the Middle East accounted for around 16% of exports. Moreschi’s constant expansion made yet another move necessary, this time to Montello street, where

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

43


S AV O I R FA I R E · M A D E I N I TA LY

44

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


the factory, initially covering 1,500 square meters in 1995, is repeatedly extended until it occupies 6,000 square meters with a total staff of 300. It was in 1995 that the first foreign mono-brand store of Moreschi also opened in the port city of Dubai. It was in September 2003 that the current Moreschi production site was inaugurated. A production plant, one of the biggest in the Vigevano shoemaking district covering a total surface area of 65,000 square metres built around a vast green space, plus a factory outlet and a nursery for the staff’s children, proof of the Company’s constant concern for its human resources – the most precious asset for the production of quality artisanal goods. Today, Moreschi employs a total of 400 people, producing approximately 250,000 pairs of shoes a year sold in more than 80 countries. On top of that Moreschi now has more than 40 sales outlets worldwide including mono-brand stores, pop-ups, and department stores. Over these years the company has always remained under the family ownership. In November 1957, GianBeppe Moreschi, the current Chairman, took over the reins of the company following the unexpected death of his father, Mario, and managed it for over a decade until its definitive take-off. In the 1980s and 1990s the third generation of Moreschi, GianBeppe’s sons, joined the company: Stefano (Managing Director), Mario (Manager of all production processes) and Francesco (Marketing and Communications Manager). “There are very few companies left in the world today that make the kind of shoes with the quality that we do. Everyone is outsourcing

and standardizing production. This is bad for the customer because everything ends up being the same. We want something different for every customer, and each customer to have unique shoes. Maybe they want to customize their shoe, want a special item or a special edition. I see that this niche of the market is growing. The combination of material that we put together is so unique that there is always something unique for every customer each time around.”, said Francesco Moreschi, during a recent interview with Signe. Moreschi remains one of the few shoemakers that can claim to be a hundred percent made in Italy. All aspects of the brand’s design, craftsmanship and manufacturing are handled completely within its organization, and this has been the case since the very beginning of the story. From procurement of the raw material to the stitching, each shoe undergoes anywhere from 250 to 350 individual steps to make one pair of shoes. With a just-in-time manufacturing philosophy, the end to end in-house manufacturing ensures that the quality is maintained throughout the production cycle. For almost seventy years, Moreschi shoes have graced the feet of the famous and the not so famous, from the worlds of cinema – Richard Burton, Liam Neeson, Adrien Brody, of music - Michael Jackson, James Brown, Johnny Cash, and of sport – Michael Jordan, Novak Djokovic, Alberto Tomba. Moreschi shoes have been worn by Popes, Heads of State, members of the nobility and the aristocracy worldwide, but above all, Moreschi shoes are emblematic of Italian know-how, and the “Made in Italy” label has become a synonym for excellence worldwide.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

45


S AV O I R FA I R E · T H E N O BL E F I BR E

THE NOBLE FIBRE Since the early 1970s, Ermenegildo Zegna and Mohair SA, a non-profit organization representing the mohair industry in South Africa, have been sponsoring the Ermenegildo Zegna Mohair Trophy This year marks the 47th edition of the annual Ermenegildo Zegna Mohair Trophy competition, established to select and award the finest quality mohair fiber. By recognizing and rewarding the finest summer kid mohair fleece, the Mohair Trophy actively encourages farmers to improve the quality and fineness of this precious fiber. To celebrate the winners of the 2017 edition, Paolo Zegna, Chairman of the Zegna Group, hosted an intimate event on October 23rd in Johannesburg, during which the three top finalists were awarded for the excellent quality of their mohair production. J.H. Lategan (Aberdeen) won the 1st price, while the 2nd and 3rd places were won respectively by F.E. Colborne and Sons (Willowmore) and Van Hasselt Farming CC (Prince Albert). Mr. Deon Saayman, Managing Director of Mohair South Africa, said that “We are extremely proud and privileged to have such a prestigious competition and association with the Zegna group. The personal interest and commitment by Paolo Zegna to the South African Mohair Growers is testimony to

46

the importance of this competition and the sustainable supply of the best quality mohair in the world. We applaud the participants for all their efforts during the current challenging production conditions and look forward to continue our association with Zegna for many years to come. I would like to extend our gratitude towards Ermenegildo Zegna for their continued support of the South African Mohair Industry.” Since the establishment of the Mohair Trophy, South Africa is the only producer country of mohair to be sponsored by the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. This is due to the superior quality that characterizes South African mohair, and the longstanding relationship the company has with Mohair SA. To celebrate the 47th-anniversary edition of the program, an exclusive special auction was established for the mohair lots participating in the Trophy last June. The peculiarity of the auction – now in its third year – is that the bales are sold anonymously, and the identity of the farmer is announced only upon conclusion of the sale.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

Mohair, one of the most ancient fibers known to man, is the fleece of the Angora goat and a noble fiber that for centuries has been regarded as one of the most luxurious and best quality raw materials available to man. The added beauty of mohair is that it is a natural, renewable resource, providing a sustainable production chain between animal and human while contributing to the long-term prosperity of the regions in which the Angora goats thrive. The Angora goat is considered unique amongst goats, in that it is essentially single coated with fibers growing continuously throughout the year. Mohair is generally a long, smooth fiber that is not crimped but can be wavy or curly, with a natural white color. Mohair is known worldwide as ‘the noble fiber’. Its exclusive qualities – luster, resilience and color reflection have been key to its success, and the South African mohair industry has grown into the global leader, producing the world’s best mohair. Today, South Africa is globally acknowledged as the land of mohair, with a production that is comparable to nowhere else in the world,


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

47


S AV O I R FA I R E · T H E N O BL E F I BR E

48

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


both in quantity and quality, while the other countries renowned for their mohair production are the United States of America, Turkey, Argentina, Lesotho, Australia and New Zealand. The African continent is the largest producer of superior quality mohair, representing 70% of the world’s production; South Africa itself produces 53% of the global mohair production. The Angora goat is thought to have originated in the Asian Himalayas or in the Highlands of Tibet, from where it spread to the Middle East, eventually finding a new home on the Turkish plains. The birth of the mohair industry took place in Ankara, Turkey, which was also the first country to supply mohair as a raw material. The founding of the mohair industry in South Africa was a stroke of good fortune after the Sultan of Turkey sent twelve infertile Angora rams and one ewe to South Africa in 1838. Unknown to the Sultan, the ewe was pregnant and gave birth to a ram kid on route, establishing the breeding stock in South Africa. These beautiful, gentle animals ultimately found their way to Karoo region of South Africa’s Eastern Cape, where great flocks of Angoras are now farmed. Mohair grows approximately 25 mm in length per month, irrespective of a goat’s age, and Angora goats are generally shorn twice a

year and are not harmed in any way during the process. In the pursuit of perfection, their fleece has been refined through consistently high breeding standards and meticulous genetic selection. The first shearing takes place around six months after birth and the fibers, known as kid mohair, are considered the best grade of mohair given that they are 29μm, much finer than the fleece of an adult Angora goat, and weigh barely 1kg. Greasy mohair is usually classified according to the age of the goats and the fiber fineness. When determining the value of mohair fibers, the quality characteristics of economic importance include fineness (fiber diameter), length, style and character, contamination, luster, and uniformity in general. The final result of the manufacturing process is a naturally soft and resilient fabric with a slightly shiny look, that is also cool and extremely lightweight. What makes mohair unique amongst other fibers is that it responds magnificently to dyes, retaining even the most brilliant colors over time and that it is rated as one of the world’s most durable natural fibers. “We have been celebrating the best quality mohair for 47 years, and it is always a pleasure to recognize the mohair growers for their efforts and achievements,” said Paolo

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

Zegna, Chairman of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. “Since 1970, the Trophy program has been selecting and rewarding the finest fleeces in the country. It is a testament to both the importance of the mohair industry and the ongoing commitment of our Group to maintain the exceptionally high qualitative standards of the raw materials we use. I would like to extend my congratulations go to the finalists, as well as to all the participants who I encourage to continue targeting the level of excellence we have seen here this year. Thank you for your hard work and ongoing commitment.” Reaffirming the importance of superior quality of raw materials, Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, the textile heart, and soul of the Zegna Group has once again purchased the top three winning bales of this year’s Trophy paying the highest price ever achieved in S.Africa, plus a significant premium. This not only represents a concrete example of the company’s ongoing support of South African mohair, it also inspires producers to deliver the highest standards of kid mohair fibers. The Lanificio, which is located in Trivero, Italy, then transforms these lots into the exclusive, limited edition fabric known as “Mohair Trophy Selection”, a masterful example of the excellence and quality Ermenegildo Zegna stands for.

49


SELECTIONS · MASCULINE BLEND

MASCULINE BLEND Boss Bottled presents its latest fragrance and newest ambassador Following the success of the first Man of Today campaign, BOSS BOTTLED is launching the second one, this time with a new mission; inspiring men to show the world who they are through their actions and values. Revered as one of the most iconic fragrances of the last 20 years, BOSS BOTTLED initially launched the Man of Today campaign to trigger a conversation about what it means to be a man in today’s world. The second Man of Today campaign seeks to empower men everywhere and encourage them to live life the way they want to live it. After Gerard Butler, the perfumer enrolled the service of Australian actor and BOSS BOTTLED global fragrance ambassador, Chris Hemsworth. “The Man of Today campaign is all about representing the idea that actions speak louder than words – a principle I’ve always tried to embody and live my life by. It’s one thing to say you’re going to do

50

something but to back it up and do it is a whole other thing. It’s an attitude that my parents bestowed upon me, and an approach I hope to instill in my kids as well. It’s about the qualities of honesty and integrity, which is a great message to be a part of,” said Chris Hemsworth. The latest iteration of this now iconic campaign will introduce a limited number of new BOSS BOTTLED Collector’s Editions as well as a digital campaign encouraging men around the world to share what being men of today means to them, using the hashtag #ManOfToday. The new BOSS BOTTLED is a masculine fragrance with a versatile and sophisticated structure; its woody accords make it a long-lasting scent that stays with the wearer throughout his day. The result of this blend is a fragrance which remains as contemporary and relevant today as it was at launch, a symbol of masculinity that has been effortlessly incorporated into the daily routines of men around the world.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

51


SELECTIONS · EXPERIMENTS IN GENEROSITY

EXPERIMENTS IN GENEROSITY Aesop Gift Kits for 2017-18 pay homage to ground-breaking studies on human behavior, and feature curated skin and body care products to suit a range of recipients. The six kits are collectively titled, ‘The Enigmatic Mind’, with each kit celebrating an influential social psychology experiment that rose to prominence in the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. At a time of year when we consider what generosity means, the experiments shine a light on how humans interact with each other, whether working together, helping others, establishing connections or social conformity. Packaged in a practical, reusable amenity case, the kits are wrapped in sleeves inspired by social psychology books of the era; the design subtly referencing the experiment behind it.

52

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


Sway The Sway Gift Kit references the Asch conformity experiments, and how we adapt to accommodate those around us. It comprises a group of agreeable formulations for hand and body care: Resurrection Aromatique Hand Wash, Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, Geranium Leaf Body Cleanser, and Geranium Leaf Body Balm.

Concord The Concord Gift Kit references the Robber Cave Experiment, examining ways in which we can initiate harmony when social situations go awry. It comprises three harmonious products that work well together for topto-toe care: A Rose By Any Other Name Body Cleanser, Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm, and Immediate Moisture Facial Hydrosol.

Affiliation The Affiliation Gift Kit references the small-world experiment, and how we connect to seemingly random strangers. It comprises a closely related trio of formulations: Parsley Seed Facial Cleanser, Parsley Seed AntiOxidant Facial Toner, and Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Hydrating Cream.

Perception The Perception Gift Kit references the Capilano suspension bridge experiment, exploring how we feel towards others. It comprises products that elicit a satisfying sensation when in contact with the body: Geranium Leaf Body Cleanser, Redemption Body Scrub, and Redemption Body Balm (a limited release). Proximity The Proximity Gift Kit references the propinquity effect, and how regular interaction is necessary for developing meaningful relationships. It comprises a tight-knit trio of facial care: Fabulous Face Cleanser, B & Tea Balancing Toner, and Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream. Regard The Regard Gift Kit references the phenomenon known as the bystander effect, and the impact it has on our fellow man. It comprises three essential Aesop formulations for looking after one’s own face and body: Fabulous Face Cleanser, Mandarin Facial Hydrating Cream, and a favored staple, Geranium Leaf Body Cleanser. The collection will be available from November at all Aesop signature stores, select stockists and counters in department stores across the globe, and at aesop.com.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

53


L A D O L C E V I TA · T H E E T E R N A L C I T Y

FR AGR ANCE SELECTION Some of Signé’s favourite fragrances put together.

54

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood The fragrance features oud, Bulgarian rose, benzoin, Turkish rose, violet and vanilla.

Gucci Guilty Absolute This iconic cologne blends leather and golden wood giving one of the most masculine scents on the market.

EX Nihilo Citizen X This is a fresh yet long-lasting fragrance with notes of mastic tree and white pepper.

Calvin Klein Obsessed A disruptive and iconic fragrance boasts infusions of black vanilla, amber and leather.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


Comme Des Garçons Concrete Boasting notes of warm spices and precious woods this fragrance is one of this seasons must have.

Prada Dark Light Part of a very exclusive collection, this perfume is a blend of amber and aldehydes with a touch of musk and vanilla.

Dolce & Gabbana The One For Men A spicy, oriental fragrance developed on the harmony of tobacco with refined base notes of cardamom, ginger, cedarwood, and citrus.

Dunhill Icon Racing A blend of bergamot, grapefruit and cardamom balanced with notes of orange blossom, lavender and black pepper; perfect for a night out.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

55


SELECTIONS · BEYOND APPEARANCES

BEYOND APPEAR ANCES The Corneliani Fall Winter 2017 collection is based on a few fundamental principles: a variety of tones, hybrid fabrics, stylish yet classic design and functional aesthetics. The collection goes beyond the traditional whims of the season so you can create a wardrobe that is true to yourself and your independent style. From deep blue mixed with shades of brown through to burgundy combined with navy blue: the color palette perfectly blends earthy tones with natural semi-tones going right up to teal, a continuous game of tones and nuances, as original as they are sophisticated, which encapsulate a distinctly Italian sensibility stemming from our familiarity with the beautiful. The entire collection, both the tailored garment and sportswear, is distinctive for its use of Woolsphere wool: thanks to technological treatments and special coatings, this noble yarn guarantees very high levels of comfort, versatility, and incredible lightness. Details, materials, and craftsmanship contribute to the creation of items that are functional as well as aesthetically exemplary.

56

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

57


SELECTIONS · BEYOND APPEARANCES

58

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

59


SELECTIONS · INSPIRED BY BEAUTY

INSPIRED BY BEAUTY

Alessa is a vibrant jewelry brand that presents a creative blend of colored gemstones and metals in a fashion that is both casual and elaborate at the same time. We visited the flagship store in Dubai City Walk to learn about the brand story Established in 2009, Alessa has fast grown to become a name to be reckoned in the jewelry industry. Founded by a young couple Alessandra Robles and Yuvraj Pahuja, their life journey, synergy and creativity merged to create Alessa. The couple met and studied together at the Gemological Institute of America. Pahuja’s family has been in the jewelry industry for three generations, and he managed the family business in Dubai before cofounding Alessa Jewelry. Robles who is the lead designer for the brand grew up in

60

Guatemala where she was submerged in the colorful culture and arts. “At the tender age of 14, I began with sketches and playing with stones as a creative outlet, soon thereafter I realized jewelry design would become my life’s work and dedication. This insatiable appetite for creativity lead me to study gemology at GIA in San Diego, and I currently hold six certifications in the field including Graduate Diamonds, Graduate Jeweler, Graduate Gemologist and a diploma in Jewelry Business Management.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

My eye-opener into my true essence as a designer came soon after working alongside world-renowned Tiffany’s & Co. In 2009, together with my husband and business partner, we founded Alessa Jewelry, a modern, vibrant, contemporary, and edgy brand. The pieces are masterfully designed and crafted with fine attention to detail, utilizing hand-selected precious stones and raw materials from around the world.” said Alessandra in a statement. Drawing inspiration from its rich Guatemalan heritage, the highlights of the


brand include its creative blend of colored gemstones and metals in a fashion that is both casual and elaborate at the same time. Featuring 18k gold adorned with diamonds, rubies, sapphires and semi-precious stones that are ageless and timeless, each piece reflects the craftsmanship and exceptional attention to detail that has gone into its creation. Each piece from Alessa is adorned by a signature Black diamond, a unique gemstone known to increase inner strength. Signifying

creativity, love, strength, and uniqueness, the hidden gem is a secret gift and a reminder of the endless beauty and elegance of every original piece created at Alessa. The latest collection Amara finds its inspirational name from ancient Greek mythology. Describing an eternally strong and beautiful woman, the ethos of the collection lies in the empowerment of women, calling out to their inner goddess and the unleashing of their superpowers. The Art Deco collection draws its design

SIGNÉ ¡ EDITION 28

inspiration from armor, weapons, and stars; characteristics of the many dimensions that women embody. A predominantly monochromatic collection, it has a strong focus on elaborate rings and mix and match earrings using Trillion cut diamonds, black onyx, colorless & black round diamonds set in 18k white and rose gold. The flagship boutique in Dubai City Walk was recently inaugurated and showcases exquisite high jewelry pieces by the brand alongside the latest collections.

61


ART & DESIGN · MERCI SAINT-L AURENT

MERCI SAINT-LAURENT The Moroccan city pays tribute to one of its most famous guest, Yves Saint-Laurent

After three years of work, the Yves Saint-Laurent Museum finally opened its doors in Marrakesh. The museum is dedicated to the great French designer and his relationship with the city of Marrakesh. “When Yves Saint Laurent first discovered Marrakech in 1966, he was so moved by the city that he decided to buy a house here and returned regularly. It feels perfectly natural, fifty years later, to build a museum dedicated to his oeuvre, which was so inspired by this country,” said Pierre Bergé, before passing away this year. Opening a museum in Marrakesh has always been a goal for the French designer; he wanted to celebrate the city that inspired

62

some of his most iconic collections. The two men, Saint-Laurent and Bergé, discovered the red city and the snowy peaks of the Atlas in 1966. They lived there what they called their “beautiful years.” It was in their Moroccan house that Yves Saint Laurent came to shut himself up for a fortnight to draw his sketches before each collection. The museum hosts a part of his personal collection which includes some 5,000 pieces, 15,000 haute couture accessories, as well as tens of thousands of drawings, which were previously kept in Paris, within the walls of the Saint-Laurent’s Parisian museum, which opened earlier this year. Just a stone’s throw from the Majorelle

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

Garden, an oasis of greenery saved by the French designer and his companion at the beginning of the 1980s, the 4,000 m2 building consists of a permanent exhibition space of 400 m2. The museum is home to a unique scenography created by Christophe Martin, a temporary exhibition hall, a research library with more than 5000 books, a 150-seat auditorium, a bookshop and a café with a terrace. Designed by Olivier Marty and Karl Fournier of Studio KO the museum is a combination of cubes, decorated with brick laces, reminiscent of the fabric used by the designer. The interior is radically different with a velvety, smooth and luminous style.


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

63


ART & DESIGN · MERCI SAINT-L AURENT

“Marrakesh taught me color. Before Marrakesh everything was black” Y V ES S A I N T - L AU R E N T

64

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


“Pierre Bergé asked the architects, Studio KO, to design a building that was contemporary and Moroccan at the same time, which is exactly what they’ve done. Contrasting curves and cubeshaped volumes are harmoniously combined; the proportions are pleasing and at a human scale. Local material such as brick has been used to adorn the exterior walls of the museum. The setting and alignment of the bricks evoke the warp and weft of fabric. The predominance of rose-colored granite set alongside the red bricks perfectly situates the building within its environment,” explained the museum’s director Bjorn Dahlstrom. Some of the museum’s highlights include a photographed portrait of Catherine Deneuve, a friend of the designer and one of his muses, in the Marrakesh medina in the early 90s. The Saint Laurent Museum was not conceived as a memory mausoleum of a dead giant but as a living place. “It is more than a museum; it’s a real cultural center. Of course, the main hall of the museum will showcase the fashion work of Yves Saint Laurent, but there will also be a space for temporary exhibitions and an auditorium for concerts, performances, film screenings, colloquiums, and live in high definition broadcasts from prestigious worldwide opera houses and theatres. Then there is also the library of Arab-Andalusian Culture, and state of the art conservation departments,” added the director. The museum hopes to attract 300,000 visitors the first year. The Majorelle garden, one of the most frequented sites of Marrakech, hosts about 800,000 a year.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

65


ART & DESIGN · RAW BEAUT Y

RAW BEAUTY

L’OBJET is the luxury lifestyle brand specializing in exquisitely crafted tableware, table accessories and home décor, founded by former interior designer Elad Yifrach Elad Yifrach is a lifelong traveler and a truly international spirit. It is the Mediterranean though that he feels most drawn to, and which inspires him in everything he does today as Founder and Creative Director of L’OBJET. Elad began his career as an interior designer in Beverly Hills. It was while working for discerning clients here that he recognized a gap in the market for luxury tabletop products. Having always felt passionately that items for the home should not only be beautiful but also embrace meticulous craftsmanship and functionality, Elad set out to achieve just that. He founded L’OBJET in 2004 after months of designing, exploring and seeking out the world’s most skilled artisans. Today Elad continues to employ many of the same families of craftspeople whom he first came across in 2004, and together they produce beautiful works of art. The brand’s philosophy is to provide discerning consumers with designs for the home that are both luxurious and functional, and crafted to the most exacting standards. Elad’s commitment to absolute quality has seen him travel the globe many times over in search of the highly skilled artisans who help him to bring his designs to life today. It is the techniques used by these artisans that sets L’OBJET apart from all others. While many of the designs are modern in aesthetic, they

66

have almost all been created using ancient crafts. Jewellery-making techniques are employed to create the most intricate photo frames; bespoke plaster moulds are used that are so fine they can cast only fifteen pieces each; porcelain is teased and shaped by hand as it dries to create exquisite texture and dinnerware is gilded three times in 24K gold to achieve the perfect glow. Provenance is of the utmost importance to Elad, who selects his materials from regions best renowned for their production. L’OBJET dinnerware is created using only Limoges porcelain from France, while each candle is hand-crafted in Portugal. What consistently runs through the heart of L’OBJET is Elad’s love of travelling, which inspires every design. Elad’s passion for the histories, cultures and people of the world can be noted in the ancient Greek shapes of the Byzanteum collection, the purity and stillness of the ancient Chinese inspired Han collection and, in the timeless Venetian textures of the Fortuny collection. This spring, L’OBJET will unveil its most vibrant and daring collection to date, Tulum. Inspired by the raw beauty of this ancient culture, imprints of Mayan history and architecture are evidenced in new sculptural and oversized pieces. L’OBJET’s Tulum collection is strikingly organic in design, yet created using complex and ground-breaking

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

67


ART & DESIGN · RAW BEAUT Y

68

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


techniques. A mixture of materials is employed including ceramic, bronze and 24K gold as well as, for the first time, reactive glazes that capture the earthiness of Tulum’s mineral-rich landscape. Unique, artisanal touches can be found on many items, from the raw collar of the Tribal Vases to the pigmented glazes painted by hand. This collection also sees a manipulation of proportion new for L’OBJET and an increase in scale is evident in statement-making bowls, bookends and vases reminiscent of Mayan ruins. Elad explains “The history, architecture and spirituality of this coastal Mayan city has been an incredible source of inspiration for the

collection. Tulum was not only a prominent trading port but also an important site of worship. These cultural touch points were a major influence during the creation of this collection; from the copper, ceramics and gold that travelled through the city, to the spectacular architecture and design of the Mayan ruins, temples and murals. The Tulum collection is an expansion of what our customer is used to seeing from L’OBJET. I loved the idea of fusing raw materials and indigenous ingredients with complex, modern processes to create truly unique and never-seen-before pieces. These items are irregular which is a significant part of their beauty.”

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

69


ART & DESIGN · OBJECTIF YING TIME

OBJECTIFYING TIME The relationship between Hermès and watchmaking goes back over a century and has been expressed over the decades in countless different ingenious, elegant and unique ways Hermès creates objects. Objects shaped by the hands of artisans to make them true companions for those who wear them. Practical, functional and stemming from uncompromising expertise, these are objects that radiate the lightness of the unexpected. In the world of Hermès, these objects make everyday life their playground, and each instant a uniquely special moment. For Hermès, time is also an object. Its inherent tension is translated by the house into a singular characteristic. Rather than measuring, ordering, and seeking to control it, Hermès dares to explore another time, designed to arouse emotions, open up interludes and create spaces for spontaneity and recreation. Watches arise from this time, free from convention; they are agents provocateurs of delight, softening the frantic pace of our daily existence. It is with this philosophy in mind that the Maison has unveiled a limited series of four watches that have objectified time with the help of skilled enamel artisans.

70

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

71


ART & DESIGN · OBJECTIF YING TIME

Hermès Arceau TYGER TYGER An encounter, followed by giving carte blanche to an artist. Such is the creative path often taken by Hermès. For the Tyger Tyger motif, everything began in 2015 with a silk scarf created by Alice Shirley, a designer and illustrator closely attuned to the spirit of the Maison. The lush vegetation surrounding the tiger is transformed into glass powder in order to give life, after various skillfully elaborated firings, to a miniature enamel painted dial. Illuminated by the chiaroscuro of a full moon night, the majestic feline takes shape with the placing of tiny gold wires marking off the surfaces to be enamelled. It is then that the cloisonné enamel technique comes into play.

72

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

73


ART & DESIGN · OBJECTIF YING TIME

74

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


Slim D’Hermès DANS UN JARDIN ANGLAIS & PROMENADE DE LONGCHAMP Hermès ventures into uncharted watchmaking territory, as time pursues its circular dance on a camel bone dial staging Persian miniature paintings. This age-old oriental technique is all about subtle alchemy. Firstly, between the bone powder and a mysterious resin forming the dial base. A porous surface that absorbs the colours, entirely made from natural pigments: saffron, walnut, henna, pomegranate, lapis lazuli, turquoise, gold leaf and silver leaf. Then comes the turn of two motifs, each inspired by a silk scarf: Dans un Jardin Anglais by Alice Shirley; and Promenade de Longchamp by Philippe Ledoux. Gum Arabic is used to mix the designs in place, before protecting these Persian miniatures with a discreet layer of varnish.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

75


ART & DESIGN · OBJECTIF YING TIME

Slim D’Hermès MARCHE DU ZAMBÈZE A mother-of-pearl disc, colours that take on exceptional luminosity by dint of patience, talent and successive firings in the kiln: such is the process involved in creating the Slim d’Hermès Marche du Zambèze. Miniature painting gives rise to shimmering colours brimming with joyfulness and subtle nuances. Wild beasts and exotic plants spring to life on this dial carrying a hint of the southern hemisphere.

76

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

77


OBSESSION · THE ONE AND ONLY

THE ONE AND ONLY Phillips, The World Market Leader in Watch Auctions, Sets New World Record for a Wristwatch at Auction

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo in its inaugural New York sale realized $28,875,750 including the highest total for a watch auction in US history. This historic and record-breaking evening saw global participation from collectors across 43 countries, and a packed saleroom of nearly 700 people enthusiastically vying for some of the finest watches in the world. The auction was led by its star lot - Paul Newman’s legendary Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona, which sold for $17,752,500, a world record for a wristwatch at auction. The timepiece sold to an anonymous bidder on the phone after 12 minutes of spirited bidding. One of the world’s most legendary and sought-after of all mechanical wristwatches, this timepiece is the only “exotic”-dialed Daytona that Mr. Newman owned, inspiring the legendary nickname for the most prestigious versions of Rolex’s Daytona. Aurel Bacs, Senior Consultant, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, states, “Kicking off our fall season, WINNING ICONS was a groundbreaking event for the international collecting community, realizing $28.8 million and establishing the highest total ever achieved for a watch auction in the United States. This historic sale was led by the one and only, original “Paul Newman “ Daytona, the true ‘Adam and Eve ‘ of the watch-collecting world. Since joining forces with Phillips three years ago, we have cemented our reputation as market leaders and this sale underscores the continued growth of the field. With an increasingly strong demand from American clients, we are confident that our auctions will continue to achieve great heights in our upcoming sales in Geneva and Hong Kong and into 2018.” The singular, one and only Rolex “Paul Newman” Cosmograph Daytona owned and worn by none other than Paul Newman. With an absolutely superb provenance, it is the watch that inspired the legendary nickname

78

for the most prestigious versions of Rolex’s Daytona. For enthusiasts and scholars, it is this association with Paul Newman that has led to the Rolex Daytona being universally regarded as one of the world’s most sought-after and collectible of all mechanical wristwatches. A Hollywood legend in every sense, a mere mention of the name Paul Newman conjures up images of his distinguished life and careers as an actor, director, race car driver, entrepreneur, family man, and philanthropist. He was a multi-faceted virtuoso, and his incredible performances on screen and stage not only made audiences laugh and cry for decades, but won him two Academy Awards, including that of Best Actor - Hollywood’s ultimate endorsement of his immense talents. Outside of his artistic endeavors, Newman had long been passionate about speed. It was his role in the 1969 film, Winning, playing racecar driver Frank Capua, where his passion for racing would form. His wife and fellow actress, Joanne Woodward, fittingly played the role of Capua’s wife - a role she had already been perfecting for a decade in their personal lives. Taking place at the Indianapolis 500 Motor Speedway, the movie launched his hugely successful auto-racing career. Applying the same methodical discipline that honed his acting skills, he trained relentlessly and would go on to win many races throughout his lifetime - even placing second at the 1979 24 Hours of Le Mans race. But even in the earliest days on the set of Winning, Joanne was uncomfortable about her husband’s motor racing, fearing he would hurt himself in an accident. Either during or following the filming of Winning, Joanne purchased the perfect gift for her husband, likely at Tiffany & Co. - a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona - a watch designed specifically for motorsport. On its caseback, “DRIVE CAREFULLY ME” is the heartfelt and loving inscription she chose to engrave for him. Fearful of his need for speed, Joanne

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

would worry for his life every time Newman would step onto the racetrack for a drive. A woman of exceptional taste, she chose a rare and exclusive version of the Cosmograph Daytona - a reference 6239 fitted with what the brand called an “exotic” dial. The reference 6239 was the very first model of Rolex’s iconic Cosmograph “Daytona” series - produced from approximately 1963 until 1970. It was the firm’s first chronograph with a tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel, designed to instantly and clearly measure speed. During the 1980s, as wristwatch collecting began to grow in earnest, Daytonas fitted with the “exotic” dial became known as the “Paul Newman” Daytona after the famous actor, who was seen wearing this very watch for many years. Along with the red “Daytona” designation at 6 o’clock and the red outer second’s track found on Paul Newman’s watch, the signature trait of exotic, “Paul Newman” dials is their subsidiary dials. The beautiful, art-deco flare of the font used, and the hash marks with small squares used for the counters set these exotic dials apart from the standard dials more commonly seen on Daytonas. Paul Boutros, Head of Watches, Americas, and Senior Vice President, Phillips added, “It was a tremendous honor to have been entrusted with the sale of the watch that started it all - Paul Newman’s very own Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona. The significance of this watch cannot be overstated and we are proud of the enthusiastic response we have seen from collectors internationally, as the watch toured across the globe and then as it went under the gavel in tonight’s auction, selling for an incredible $17,752,500. We were delighted to work so closely with James Cox and Nell Newman on this memorable sale, of which a portion of the proceeds will benefit the Nell Newman Foundation and Newman’s Own Foundation, helping to ensure they can both continue working toward their important missions.”


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

79


OBSESSION · TIME OF THE DESERT

TIME OF THE DESERT The first edition of the competitive Chopard Classic Rally Dubai launches November 10th There are few luxury brands in the world today that can claim to be as highly aligned to the world of motorsport the way Chopard is. Chopard, along with its partner Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Emaar Properties, will be presenting the inaugural edition of the Chopard Classic Rally Dubai, a two-day demanding competitive regularity rally on November 10th and 11th. The event will bring together 30 teams who will pilot from Dubai in their vintage automobiles along some of the most enchanting scenery of the UAE deserts, mountains and roads. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, CoPresident of Chopard, is a genuine classic car enthusiast and the primary reason Chopard has played an active part in the various classic car races such as the Mille Miglia. Chopard is also major sponsors of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique and the Porsche motorsport team. In his words, “Lovers of fine automobiles are said to have a weakness for precious timekeepers, and vice versa. In both fields, extreme precision and sporting elegance play an important role.” Together Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his longtime friend and acclaimed Belgian race car driver, Jacky Ickx, will

80

be taking part in the first edition of the Chopard Classic Rally Dubai. Jacky Ickx is an exceptional sportsman who practiced a large variety of disciplines that set him apart. His achievements include six victories at the renowned 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance race. Known as “Monsieur Le Mans,” in 2000 Ickx was awarded the title of Honorary Citizen of Le Mans. He has also achieved eight Formula 1 victories and 25 podium finishes from 116 races completed between 1966 and 1979, as well as winning the 1983 Paris-Dakar Rally. The Chopard Classic Rally Dubai is a rigorous test of timing and navigational skills, offering to 60 aficionados the opportunity to challenge their driving abilities. Thirty teams will leave from Dubai in their classic automobiles along some of the beautiful enchanting scenery of the UAE deserts, mountains and roads. Starting from the iconic Burj Khalifa in Dubai, set in the heart of Emaar’s megadevelopment Downtown Dubai, and going towards the northern emirates, passing by Sharjah, Ajman, Fujairah and Ras Al Khaimah, the rally map follows a different challenging itinerary each day throughout the UAE lands with the Hatta and Jebel

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

Jais mountains as main landscapes. A gala dinner will be held on the evening of the final day during which the winners of the regularity will be rewarded. “There has always been a historical relation between the world of fine watchmaking and classic cars; both use highly mechanical components that are assembled in such a way to give power to an engine that is presented in beautiful cases. Some of the most iconic examples of classic cars will be on show during this prestigious event and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is proud to support the first chapter of the Chopard Classic Car Rally in the Middle East ”– said Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, Chief Commercial Office of Seddiqi Holding. The close ties between watchmaking and classic cars have remained largely due to the impressive number of common denominators that naturally draw them together. These include constant innovation, a tireless quest for performance and excellence, unfailing respect for traditions, the supreme importance of details – and of course a shared passion for mechanical engineering. To commemorate the launch of the very first Chopard Classic Rally Dubai


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

81


OBSESSION · TIME OF THE DESERT

82

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


2017, Chopard will be launching a special edition watch, the L.U.C Time Traveler One – Time of the Desert. Produced in a 20-piece limited series with a refined sand colour dial recalling the golden sun-soaked dunes of the UAE, this timekeeper with its exceptional finishing is an indispensable instrument for the Emirati gentleman travellers embracing the world. Two of these watches will be offered to the first place winners of the Chopard Classic Rally Dubai 2017. The L.U.C Time Traveler One – Time of the Desert The L.U.C Time Traveler One – Time of the Desert is designed to facilitate the lives of Emirati long-haul travellers who need to remain in touch with several time zones. At any given moment, a single glance at this essential horological complication indicates the time anywhere in the world. This authentic wrist instrument is available in stainless steel with a sand colour dial featuring brown accents and transfers recalling strong Emirati identity and preciousness. All of them meet the

high standards of the L.U.C collection by Chopard: excellence in terms of their mechanism and finishing, along with a refined aura intended for men of good taste in general – and in this particular case for modern-day nomads. The L.U.C Time Traveler one - Time of the desert operates in concentric layers. A discreet central hand indicates the date, while a surrounding railway track circle serves to read off the hours and minutes of the local time zone – swept over by Dauphine fusée type hands typical of the watches in the L.U.C collection and adjusted via a crown positioned at 2 o’clock. Moving a further step outwards, a large 24-hour graduated ring operates in coordination with the disc bearing the reference cities symbolising the 24 main time zones. Once they are synchronised with the local time zone via the 4 o’clock crown, no more adjustment is required. With a dark brown alligator leather strap, the L.U.C Time Traveler One - Time of the Desert features a 42 mm case, an ideal size for any wrist. Its extremely reasonable 12.09 mm thickness means it can be worn

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

discreetly under a shirtsleeve, while its alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes endow it with the inherent sense of distinction shared by all L.U.C timepieces. A complex yet user-friendly instrument, the L.U.C Time Traveler One - Time of the desert is based on a calibre entirely developed, produced and finished in the Chopard Manufacture workshops in Fleurier. Calibre 01.05-L is distinguished by a 6.25 mm thickness and a functional nature that appreciably simplifies its owner’s life. This self-winding movement has a 60-hour power reserve. It guarantees that the L.U.C Time Traveler One - Time of the desert will be running smoothly and reliably after a well-deserved rally weekend, during which it has remained safely on a bedside table. Calibre 01.05-L is finished in accordance with the criteria governing the most prestigious watchmaking certifications, including decorations such as chamfering and Côtes de Genève applied to the various components. Like all L.U.C watches equipped with a function indicating the seconds, the L.U.C Time Traveler One - Time of the desert is chronometer-certified by the COSC.

83


O B S E S S I O N · O F F T H E B E AT E N PAT H

84

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Signé puts the 2018 Maserati Levante to the test in the UAE desert Luxury SUVs are a reasonably recent category, but several manufacturers have high expectations for this segment. The blend of comfort and performance has made the SUVs one of the best performing categories for several luxury automotive brands. The transition from traditional luxury to SUVs cars has been faster for certain manufacturers than for others. However, when a brand with racing heritage and a centennial tradition of making beautiful cars makes an SUV, you know that the end product is going to be a success. “The Levante name was inspired by a warm, Mediterranean wind that can change from mild to gale force in an instant, mirroring the character of the first Maserati SUV. It enables the Trident to access the largest luxury segment in the world and contributes to creating of a complete product line-up in Maserati’s history,” explains the brand in a statement. The Maserati Levante was a bold move made in 2016 by the Italian manufacturer. A bet that has paid off since the Levante accounts for a considerable part of the company’s total sales today. The Levante has attracted a lot of new customers for the brand; with 90 percent of Levante customers being first time Maserati clients. “This is the first ever SUV by Maserati, so it is a complete gamechanger, particularly for the UAE. Maserati is renowned for exotic sports cars, so our mission was not just to build an SUV, but to build a Maserati. Exciting times are ahead, and we are glad to be able to offer Maserati aficionados a completely new experience,” said Hossam Hosni, General Manager Luxury Auto at Al Tayer Motors, when the Levante was first launched in the UAE.

Presented in 2016 the Levante is a true Maserati, the brand did not compromise and even if it does not look like your average Ghibli or Quattroporte; the LevWante sounds exactly like its sedan and coupé counterparts. The Levante is based on the evolution of the sedan platform, designed exclusively by Maserati. The car chassis has been specifically developed to offer unique on-road drivability and competitive off-road capability, with day-to-day comfort and practicality. Powered by a Ferrari-created petrol engine, the 2018 Levante features several new design elements. It comes in two versions, the GranLusso and the GranSport. The GranLusso embodies the luxurious and stylish character of the Modena-based factory while the GranSport is a more aggressive and racing-inspired vehicle. The design of the 2018 Levante has been changed a bit compared to the last year models, but the more significant changes are from the engineering department. The steering is now electronic, while it was hydraulic before; it gives more torque to the steering when driving at low speeds. The new driver-assistance system offers exciting features such as traffic signs recognition, blind spot detection, and highway assist; a feature that puts the car back into your lane if it feels that the car is straying from its path. It also boasts active cruise control as well as essential autonomous driving features. “The Maserati of SUVs was engineered to excite the sportfocused drivers by making extensive use of lightweight materials, as well as boasting an ideal 50:50 weight distribution and the segment’s lowest center of gravity. These features delivered unparalleled agility in the high-end SUV class as well as remarkable

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

85


O B S E S S I O N · O F F T H E B E AT E N PAT H

86

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

87


O B S E S S I O N · O F F T H E B E AT E N PAT H

88

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


comfort on rough roads and great handling on low-grip surfaces,” explains the brand in a statement. The Levante proudly boasts a unique Zegna trim option, with silk inserts on the seats, and high-quality leather stitched tightly across the dashboard. The interior has been created with the finest materials made in Trivero by the Zegna wool mill using a patented process. Maserati is also offering a completely bespoke service where customers can choose from hundreds of Zegna fabrics and combinations to create their own unique Levante interior. The entertainment system of the Levante has been upgraded and is compatible with the latest technology such as Carplay and Android Auto. You can plug your phone into the system or just connect it via Bluetooth and enjoy all of its features from calls to music and messages. While technical features and specs are important when it comes to a car, we at Signé think that luxury vehicles are emotional purchases and that the decision is made while driving. Test drives can be a bit boring whether it is on the road or on a race track you are usually discovering the car in a setting where it should be at its best. Sports cars will perform brilliantly on tracks while sedans will be as comfortable as ever on the road. To discover the 2018 Levante, Maserati invited us to Ras Al Khaimah for one of the most unexpected test drives ever. We were to drive the Levante off-road. At first glance, the Maserati of SUVs looks like it could hold its own on gravel but it seems like it could be struggling on dunes.

We attended a full product presentation in the evening followed by a Q&A session with the Maserati and an exquisite dinner at the Farmhouse in Al Wadi Desert resort. The next morning, following a briefing and a breakdown of our itinerary we took the road towards our destination, the desert. The route was divided into three parts that could be identified by the type of roads we would drive on; asphalt, gravel, and sand. During the briefing, we were told about the different driving modes the Levante offers, from eco to sport and obviously off-road. The car could automatically raise or lower itself over 3 inches depending on the speed and type of terrain. After deflating our tires, we headed to the desert to experience the Levante’s off-road capabilities first hand, and it did not disappoint. The plush interiors made sure you were seated in the cradle of luxury while the Levante effortlessly tackled the terrain outside. Whether it was flat terrain or high sand dunes, the car delivered. As long as you keep your foot on the gas pedal, you could go anywhere. Momentum is critical when driving off-road and you would think that the 50:50 weight distributions would be an obstacle to a comfortable off-road experience, well we could not be more wrong. Once our off-road experience was done, we took the not-too-adventurous highway back to the hotel. The 2018 Levante is a beautiful car, inside and out; it has power, style, class and is full of pleasant surprises. Being able to take this car off-road is a rare treat simply because even if you owned one, you would not think of taking it this far off the beaten path.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

89


OBSESSION · TIME MACHINE

TIME MACHINE MB&F presents the latest addition to the Legacy Machine collection, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement MB&F debuted the Legacy Machine collection in 2011; it is the result of a radical thought experiment by the brand’s founder Maximilian Büsser who wondered “What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s, the first wristwatches appear, and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist. There are no Grendizers, Star Wars or fighter jets for my inspiration, but I do have pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne. So what might my early 20th-century machines look like? They had to be round and three-dimensional: Legacy Machines are the answer.”

90

The watches in the MB&F Legacy Machine collection have a common technical feature: the functions or complications highlighted in each edition can vary, but the suspended pendulum always takes over, both literally and figuratively. In the Legacy Machine Split Escapement, this feature reaches a new degree of achievement. The balance wheel of the LMSE is flowing serenely just below the top of the glass dome, at a traditional frequency of 2.5 Hz or 18’000 A/ hr. However, its construction is less classic: unlike the other pendulums hanging from the Legacy Machine collection - or in fact any other existing balance wheel - it seems to oscillate on its own, without any

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

91


OBSESSION · TIME MACHINE

92

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


apparent energy source. The other essential components, the escape wheel and the anchor that give the necessary impetus, are hidden on the other side of the movement, 12mm lower. Hence the name “Split Escapement.” Under the balance wheel, the three dials of the LMSE display the time at 12 o’clock, the power reserve at 4 o’clock and the date at 8 o’clock respectively. The latter is easily and quickly adjusted with a push button placed on the side of the case, near its dedicated dial. The other features are natural evolutions borrowed from previous Legacy Machines, such as the organic arches of the pendulum bridge found in the LM Perpetual. Particularly noteworthy is the frosted look, which is intimately linked to the pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. MB&F inaugurated this traditional decor on the LM101 ‘Frost’ editions. In the context of the Legacy Machine collection, where inspiration revolves around grainy movements, smooth round cases, and brilliant

white dials, it was only a matter of time before the graining made a new appearance it the watchmaker’s latest collections. Despite the technical difficulties to create the “split escapement,” the engine of the LM SE is designed in a spirit of aesthetics and classicism - it is beautifully symmetrical, with bridges forming a splendid setting for their underlying components. On the dial side, the balance bridge is the third version of a critical component in all Legacy Machines so far. In the former, it was characterized by an industrial aesthetic that, for the Legacy Machine 101 and the final edition of the Legacy Machine No.1, evolved into a more rounded shape with a golf wedge-like base. In the LMSE, as in the Legacy Machine Perpetual, the bridge arches adopt organic lines from one end to the other. The LM SE is available in 4 white gold launch editions limited to 18 pieces each, with a frosted dial plate in blue, ruthenium, red gold or yellow gold.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

93


H E R I TA G E · A S T O R Y O F I N N O VAT I O N

A STORY OF INNOVATION In 2017, the brand Favre-Leuba can already look back to a history spanning 280 years

What started with Abraham Favre’s small workshop in the Swiss municipality of Le Lacie in 1737 developed rapidly into a manufacture whose watches were known worldwide for their high functionality, precision, and reliability under

94

every climatic condition. Signe takes a look at the history of the ingenious brand, a history characterized by bold, pioneering thinking; numerous innovations and technological excellence, and consistently seizing new market opportunities.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


1737

Favre-Leuba is a brand whose history started on March 13th, 1737, when the watchmaking workshop of Abraham Favre was first mentioned in an official document in Le Locle - the birthplace of Swiss watchmaking in the presentday canton of Neuchatel.

1749 The 35-year-old who came from a long-established, respected family, began his watchmaker apprenticeship in 1718 and was appointed ‘Maitre Horloger du Locle,’ master watchmaker of Locle, around 1749.

1867 1855 1815 In 1865 and 1867, he traveled to India and launched his brand as the first Swiss watch manufacturer in the subcontinent, which was to quickly develop into an important market for FavreLeuba. Furthermore, the brand participated under his direction in national and international exhibitions and received numerous awards for its pioneering watches.

Fritz Favre, who married Adele-Fanny Leuba in 1855 and subsequently used the double surname FavreLeuba, proved himself a worthy successor to his father HenryAuguste and successfully pursued his expansion strategy in Europe, America, and Asia.

Henry-Auguste, Frederic Favre’s son and thereby the fourth generation of the watchmaker family, joined forces in 1815 with the watch business of Auguste Leuba from Buttes in Val-de-Travers and traveled around the world – from Germany to Russia, through Cuba to New York, from Brazil to Chile - to establish their own workshop’s finely-made pocket watches in distant markets.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

1790

The family business was passed on by the dedicated patron, Abraham Favre, who died at the age of 88 in 1790, to his son, also named as Abraham.

1792 On October 1st, 1792, the younger torchbearer, together with his sons Frederic and Henry-Louis, founded the company ‘A Favre & Fils’.

95


H E R I TA G E · A S T O R Y O F I N N O VAT I O N

1908 1963 His children - particularly Henri Favre-Leuba, who assumed leadership of the family business in 1908 and remained president of the board of directors until his death in 1961 - relocated the company headquarters to Geneva and continued to steadily grow the brand. As a member of the family’s seventh generation, the lawyer Dr. Henry A Favre turned the watch workshop into an internationally successful manufacture with over 300 employees.

96

After a halt by the turmoil of war in Europe, Favre-Leuba additionally reincorporated production of his own ebauches in the newly established company headquarters in Petit-Laney near Geneva starting in 1963. The company was consequently named, as at the end of the 19th century, ‘Manufacture d’Horlogerie Favre-Leuba SA’.

1980 Two sons of Henry A. Favre Florian A. and Eric A. Favre continued to lead the company as the eighth generation. The introduction of cheap quartz movements in 1969 nevertheless plunged the Swiss watch industry into a serious crisis, which did not stop at the gates of Favre-Leuba’s workshops. After an integration into the Saphir Group, to which Jaeger-Lecoultre also belonged, the family was subsequently compelled to sell the brand in the 1980s. After that, the company changed ownership multiple times, with owners including Benedom SA and LVMH.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

2011

On November 16th , 2011, the Tata Group acquired the brand and transferred its company headquarters to Zug. The global power of the Tata Group, together with Swiss expertise in the development, construction, marketing and sale of timepieces in the premium segment, forms an outstanding basis for the future success of the brand.


With the introduction of the Raider Bivouac 9000, the brand’s designers have created a wristwatch that until now had been thought technically impossible. The team drew their inspiration from the company’s own history: in 1962, Favre-Leuba launched the world’s first mechanical wristwatch capable of measuring air pressure and altitudes of up to 3,000 meters above sea level. While the Bivouac 9000 is a homage to this legendary model, every aspect of it has been improved and refined to make it capable of coping with the demands that are now placed on a highly functional instrument that is designed to conquer extremely high altitudes.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

97


L A D O L C E V I TA · F U S I O N O F T I M E A N D A RT

FUSION OF TIME AND ART Hublot and Cheval Blanc Randheli unveil their latest collaboration, a new Classic Fusion special edition

Cheval Blanc Randheli, the intimate and lavish Cheval Blanc Maison in the Maldives’ idyllic Noonu Atoll, is a haven of art de vivre in a welcoming and convivial atmosphere, with a dedicated, personalized service. This new timepiece is a tribute to the colors surrounding the atoll, where the ocean’s dark blue contrasts beautifully with the transparent turquoise of the lagoon, all a reflection of the clear blue skies above. Hublot writes a new page in its history, lending its talents to the service of creation and expanding its know-how in order to create the dial using sand. The brand commissioned Parisian artist Vincent Beaurin, designer of the signature works of art at the Cheval Blanc Maison in the Maldives, to conceive the new creation. This collaboration follows the successful launch of the 2016 Special Edition: a perfect illustration of the savoir-faire of the Swiss watch manufacture and its constant quest for new fusions between time, art and luxury. “Just like the blue waters surrounding Cheval Blanc Randheli, the captivating blue tones of the two new timepieces dedicated to the Maison create an appealing aura on the wrist, offering wearers a new experience with time,” says Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot. Art is held dear by both Hublot and Cheval Blanc. The works of Vincent Beaurin have graced the walls of Cheval Blanc Randheli since its opening, an expression of a true creative identity. The Classic Fusion 45mm Cheval Blanc Randheli Special Edition and Classic Fusion 38mm Cheval Blanc Randheli Special Edition are only available at the Cheval Blanc Randheli Concept Store, in the dedicated Hublot area that reflects the identity of the most iconic Hublot boutiques around the world.

98

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

99


L A D O L C E V I TA · L I F E AT S E A

LIFE AT SEA Apreamare revives one of Italy’s most famous boats, the Gozzo

Apreamare has decided to give a second life to its Gozzo; a traditional Italian fishing boat launched 170 years ago. Presented at the Cannes Yachting Festival, this 10-meter long open yacht is made for family outings and relaxed days at sea with friends. “Gozzo is the new boat originated from an idea by Cataldo Aprea, the result of a partnership lasting well over ten years with designer Brunello Acampora of Victory Design and manufactured by Imbarcazioni d’Italia, a company belonging to the Cose Belle d’Italia group,” explains the brand in a statement. The Italian manufacturer launched the Gozzo in 1849, and the company has put in a lot of efforts to make its concept a success. The idea was to turn this iconic and traditional fishing boat into an object of lifestyle. The Gozzo Sorrentino was initially made entirely of wood, but with the evolution of maritime technology, it is now made of glass fiber and precious woods. This cabin cruiser boasts a walk around deck and a large cockpit at the back; In front there is a large sun deck, allowing passengers to tan and enjoy the sea. The Gozzo is powered by two 200-horsepower Volvo Penta engines but is also available in a mono-engine configuration for younger audiences. The silhouette is very streamlined and modern, but which also has roots in the extremely elegant “Gozzi Sorrentino” pleasure craft produced by the Aprea family in the 1960s that still sail the seas in Sorrento, Capri, and Positano even today. It has excellent sea-keeping properties, low consumption values at low speed but also sporty qualities that are expected today, of the utmost comfort, while speed sailing. “Gozzo is the result of years of innovation, a creation that can revolutionize the way in which people see and enjoy life at sea. Gozzo is an entirely brand-new boat due to its hull, drive motor system and technological solutions; it is already destined to become an icon, to mark the history of the brand, an unrivaled masterpiece,” concluded the Italian manufacturer.

100

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

101


L A D O L C E V I TA · A L O N G T H E M E D I T E R R A N E A N

102

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN Signé discovers the beauty of Turkey behind the wheel of the new Volvo XC60.

Discovering a country is always better when you take the roads less traveled. We had the opportunity to explore the beautiful region of Marmaris, in Turkey with Volvo and here is what we saw. Marmaris is an ancient city, nestled next to archaeological sites such as Cnidus and Kaunos, and it has witnessed the rise and fall of several civilizations. Located in the province of Muğla, a seaside town bordering the Mediterranean Sea, Marmaris is highly prized and brings in hundreds of thousands of tourists each summer. The small town was born on the site of the ancient city of Physkos, which, in the 4th century BC, was the arsenal port of the Persian satrap of Carrie Hecatomnus, father of the famous Maussollos. In 334 BC, the city became Greek after the conquest of Anatolia by Alexander the Great and became, after

his death, Roman and Byzantine, like the rest of Anatolia. The city passed under the control of the Menteşeoğullari in the thirteenth century and was conquered by the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent during his campaign against the island of Rhodes, it is at this time that the city takes its final name. From 1919 to 1921, Marmaris was under the control of Italy before becoming a fishing village with the advent of the Turkish Republic. Unfortunately, one of the only traces of this past full of history is the Ottoman fortress overlooking the sea built by Suleyman the Magnificent in 1522. It was built on the foundations of a castle built by Alexander the Great and is now a museum. The historic district, where the fortress is located, is the only part of the city where one can appreciate

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

the architecture of the buildings, white plastered buildings with cracks, reflecting the time when Marmaris was a Greek city. The primary interest of the city lies not in the almost inexistent traces of its history but in its beaches and nightlife that does not fail to seduce tourists who are often satisfied with these two elements for an enjoyable holiday with friends. In addition to the port where many restaurants and bars are concentrated, one street is sure to attract young holidaymakers: Bar Street. Animated from Monday to Sunday until the dawn, party-goers gather there to consume alcohol and dance. The establishments are very varied, almost all in the open air, and offer music for all tastes. Also, the atmosphere is relaxed and warm, which makes it easy to meet people of different nationalities.

103


L A D O L C E V I TA · A L O N G T H E M E D I T E R R A N E A N

104

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


Over the years, Marmaris has become one of Turkey’s most famous cities, despite the fact that it does not draw its richness in history as most of the country’s touristic towns. Perfect for people who want to combine beach and party, it will also be ideal for people looking to mix rest and sightseeing thanks to the tourist spots near the city such as Rhodes Island and Daylan. We stayed at the Golden Key Bordubet hotel, a beautiful boutique resort on the niche between the sea and the hills of the Muğla province. This quiet and picturesque hotel is built along a small river that goes from the mountains all the way to the Mediterranean. With a limited number of rooms and a wide array of outdoor activities offered the Golden Key Bordubet is the perfect location for travelers who want to relax and disconnect from civilization and technology. We suggest you try the hotel’s kayak excursion where you start on the hotel’s river and finish your trip on the Mediterranean coast where the arrival point is located.

We explored the region for three days and discovered plenty of picturesque locations as well as scrumptious local delicacies. Over the course of this trip, we drove almost 600 kilometers on routes designed to experience the full potential of the new XC60. From highways to mountain roads with no asphalt, we were able to enjoy, first hand, some of the features that set the XC60 apart from its competition. Volvo is known to produce some of the world’s safest car and the manufacturer invests heavily in research and development to make sure that it stays ahead of the competition. The new XC60, one of the safest cars ever made, is fully-loaded with modern technology. Steer Assist has been added to the ground-breaking City Safety system. A new safety system called Oncoming Lane Mitigation uses steer assist to help mitigate headon collisions, while Volvo’s Blind Spot Indication System (BLIS) now uses Steer Assist functionality to reduce the risk of lane-changing crashes.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

Pilot Assist, Volvo’s advanced semiautonomous driver assistance system, which takes care of steering, acceleration, and braking on well-marked roads up to 130 km/h, is a fantastic feature that lets you experience the powerful technology loaded in this car. You can set your route on the infotainment system, start driving, activate Pilot Assist, sit back and relax. You obviously need to keep an eye on the road and be ready to steer or brake, should something happen on the way, but the Volvo XC60 takes care of the rest. The XC60 can calculate the distance between cars and even prevent accidents by helping you steer away from a crash. “We have focused on building a car that can deliver pleasure to all of your senses – from a commanding view of the road ahead in a beautifully appointed and calm cabin to a safe, inspired and confident ride,” said Henrik Green, Senior Vice President Product & Quality at Volvo Car Group. “We’ve paid particular attention to making life easier for our customers by providing them with the creature comforts and services that take the hassle out of everyday life.”

105


L A D O L C E V I TA · T H E T R E N D S E T T E R

THE TRENDSETTER Chef Joe Barza has over 25 years of experience and has helped raise the profile of Middle Eastern cuisine. He is known as the rebel leader who revived Lebanese cuisine Founder of Joe Barza Culinary Council, he is also a member of the Culinary Academy of France, President of the Association of Lebanese Chefs and the organizing committee of the Lebanese Culinary Fair: Horeca. The Chef has participated in numerous international events such as Slow Food - Terra Madre events, the Dubai World Hospitality Championship, the Route des Etoiles in Portugal and the International Food Festival in Sydney. He has also traveled with great names in the culinary arts such as Frédéric Anton, Gerald Passédat, Mark Vera, David Higgs, Guillaume Gomez. On the sidelines of the launch of his latest project in Dubai, we sat with the chef to discuss his collaboration with Hilton Worldwide, his inspirations and his vision of Lebanese cuisine. What brings you to Dubai and more specifically here at the Hilton? I am collaborating with Hilton Worldwide and Hilton on the opening of our first prototype restaurant Al Maeda here in the Double Tree by Hilton. I will be cooking here for a while, train the teams and regularly come back to ensure the quality remains up to par. It is a significant project for me as it gives me the opportunity to showcase Lebanese cuisine and to pay homage to my roots and influences. I also decided to work with Hilton because they trust me completely and I can cook the way I like to, the way I am used to. You spoke about your Lebanese roots when it comes to cuisine; how difficult is it to add a twist to something like Lebanese cuisine? I do not like this term “adding a twist,” I try to give the products their value and use them the best way possible. I am inspired by the cities I visit and the chefs I meet, but you have to be very careful when changing timeless dishes. For instance, a dish like hummus can be done straightforwardly, but if I am cooking tomorrow in India, I will try to pay my respects to the country and my guests by adding a touch of curry in my hummus or tahini.

106

When I started cooking, people used to criticize me. Everyone stuffed zucchini with rice, so I decided to stuff it with bourghul why not? I also stuff it with freekeh. I travel a lot, and I think it is an excellent opportunity to spread the word about new techniques and ingredients after all freekeh is the new quinoa. What advice would you give up and coming chefs? Stay grounded and humble. The humbler you are, the more you’ll learn and evolve as a chef, and it is a never-ending process that allows you to dare. When you dare, there is passion. Let me tell you a story. We were invited to Sardinia, for a competition, the World’s championship of Tuna. I never worked with tuna before; therefore, I told my assistant that we should go because it will be an excellent opportunity to meet people from around the world. We had no budget, so I took with me some spices for shawarma, and we won the World Cup with a tuna shawarma Once you dare it becomes a way of life. How do you feel when you are in the kitchen? The relation between food and me is stronger than the relationship between a man and a woman. When I cook I feel like a sage, let us put it this way. When I walk in the kitchen, I am all over the world in an instant. Once you are in the kitchen regardless of its state, modern or ancient, it triggers different feelings. I feel safe in a kitchen. Are we going to see more Al Maeda restaurants opening? Yes, we are planning, with Hilton, to opening thirty new restaurants worldwide in the next four years. I travel around the world to visit the restaurant and see what is working and what is not depending on the market and if something does not work, we will change it and adapt it to that market. However, I am sure that at least 80 percent of the menu is going to remain unchanged. We hired young chefs for each restaurant, chefs that are willing to dare and innovate and I am sure this will be the key to our success.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

107


L A D O L C E V I TA · T H E E T E R N A L C I T Y

THE ETERNAL CITY Signé heads to Italy to discover one of Rome’s most exclusive properties and sit down with one of the world’s leading chefs

Regularly mentioned amongst the world’s most beautiful hotels, the Rome Cavalieri offers panoramic views of the historic city of Rome. Spanning over 15 acres of beautiful Mediterranean gardens, the hotel is located just three kilometers from the Vatican City and five kilometers from the picturesque city center. Offering some of the world’s most exquisite and iconic architecture, the property prides itself on its first class service, cutting-edge facilities, incredible spa and Michelin Star Chef Heinz Becks’ La Pergola. It also boasts an art gallery curated by some of the world’s most revered art critics. Privacy and bespoke experiences are becoming critical aspects of the UHNWI lifestyle and properties around the world are creating new products to satisfy this demanding clientele; The Penthouse is the Rome Cavalieri’s answer to these needs. Located on the hotel’s executive floor, this 250 square-meter suite is redefining the concept of luxury in the hospital industry. Boasting the ultimate amenities as well as a level of luxury rarely seen in European hotels it also features its own private 200 square-meter panoramic roof gardens. The décor of the suite is an exclusive blend of antique and modern in the grand tradition of Italian refinement. Guests have the opportunity to enjoy, in the comfort of their suite, essential works of art, such as a series of Andy Warhol paintings; armchairs and sofas, acquired by auction at Sotheby’s in Monte Carlo, that once adorned Karl Lagerfeld’s Paris home. The Penthouse’s bathrooms feature precious marble panels embellished with a malachite inlay. The taps are made of Swarovski Bohemian crystal, and the power shower boasts a tropical mist revitalizing sessions option that can be complemented with chromo-therapy and aromatherapy. Regarding technology, the hotel has brought together the latest products to ensure that the entertainment system of the suite surpasses the standards of hospitality. We are talking LED TV 65” full HD with media hub in the living room, LED TV 55” full HD with media hub in the bedroom and LED TV full HD in the bathroom. By booking The Penthouse guests enjoy the unique privilege of access the roof garden via the rare wood-paneled staircase in the drawing room. In the peace haven, guests will have the opportunity to relax in a gazebo a gazebo, a solarium and a whirlpool for discreet sunbathing or a strictly private party behind a protective wall of bullet-proof glass. “Stress-relief was a major consideration for the designers of The Penthouse. Pinpoints of optic fiber lights set in the ceiling twinkle over the whirlpool to offer an exclusive view of the dome of St. Peter’s and the Eternal City. And for those who adopt a more energetic approach to well being, space has been allocated for the guest’s own private gym fitted with a personalized choice of equipment,” explains the property in a statement. A short step from the private roof garden brings guests directly to their priority-reserved table in the 3-star Michelin restaurant “La Pergola.” Signé sat with celebrity Heinz Beck to learn more about his Roman projects and his discovery of Italy.

108

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

109


L A D O L C E V I TA · T H E E T E R N A L C I T Y

110

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28


What are the “Golden Rules” of Cooking, or the “Italian” food rules you follow? I can tell you which are my food rules: seasonality, excellent raw ingredients, technique, and passion. What do you cook for yourself when you’re not at La Pergola? I love eating fruits and vegetables. I like meat but prefer fish. I love pasta with freshly made tomato sauce and basil leaves. My favorite dishes are made with vegetables, minestrone (vegetable soup) and a typical Sicilian dish, pasta with tenerumi (the most tender leaves of zucchini) prepared by my mother-in-law. You’re regarded as one of the best chefs in the entire world. What is the most challenging part of cooking? On the one hand, to study the raw materials and understand the best technique to enhance their properties without denaturalizing them. On the other hand to anticipate Guests’ needs as well as meet their expectations giving them the possibility to enjoy a complete dining experience without scarifying taste. What are the challenges you have encountered as a chef in Rome? I did not speak Italian at all. I had to study a lot to learn it and feel confident with the language. Regarding the cuisine, I remember it was encouraging to put into practice what I had learned through the books I studied and to get in touch with such excellent raw ingredients. How would you suggest a foreigner who is new to Rome approach Italian cuisine? To visit local restaurants and eat typical Italian and Roman cuisine according to different districts of the city. For example, I would suggest eating Roman-Jewish fried artichokes in the Roman ghetto or rigatoni with pajata (pasta with baby lamb intestines) in Testaccio.

Where do you get your inspiration from? From everything surrounds me. Inspiration can come from music, art, landscape, it could be anything. Allow me to tell you a short history behind one of my dishes: when I opened my restaurants in Tokyo, some years ago, I spent one night in a ryokan in Kyoto. I woke up in the morning, and I was in front of a water garden. It gave me a feeling of peace and tranquillity, well-being. When I came back it Rome, I created a dish called “Water garden”. The dish consists of zucchini purée, carpaccio of shrimps covered with tapioca pearls cooked in an infusion of herbs. When you look at it, the dish has a greenish color with all the reflections given by tapioca pearls, like the breeze that passes over the water and makes it move slightly. Above it is then decorated with flowers, herbs, and caviar, which are rocks that come out of the water garden. It’s a very nice dish. What do you look for when choosing where to improve the profile of your cuisine? Primary focus on health and respect for ingredients as well as on innovation through modern techniques and equipment. What are you like in the kitchen? Concentrated, precise and very exigent. What’s your biggest dining pet peeve when you visit other restaurants? Honestly, I rarely have time to eat in different restaurants. When it happens; I try to relax and to thoroughly enjoy my dining experience. What do you think is really exciting about the fine dining world right now? I’m happy to see many chefs of excellent dining restaurants interested towards healthy nutrition. If we look all around us, we know so many people with health problems. Cooking healthy and tasty food is possible, and I think that is the key to living longer and better.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

111


L A D O L C E V I TA · T H E C U I S I N E O F T H E S U N

THE CUISINE OF THE SUN Signé sits with Chef Chris Galvin to discover more about his second UAE venture, Galvin Dubai Could you introduce Galvin Dubai and how is different from Demoiselle? We are on the eve of opening Galvin Dubai. It is the more serious grown-up brother of Demoiselle. Demoiselle is an afternoon tea venue considering it came from a petit-bistro inspiration where people are celebrating a purchase or catching up with family. Galvin Dubai is more of a grown-up venue created around the concept of the cuisine of the sun, and that is what inspired me for Galvin Dubai. What we are doing is embracing the flavors of the Mediterranean. What are the highlights or the dishes that you recommend? Things that are French like “escargots,” “bouillon” we can never take off the menu. At the beginning I asked Luigi, the head chef, to tell me about his happiest memories of cooking and he said: “Chris, the best thing is my grandmother’s cooking. Simple dishes with beautiful tomatoes, basic pasta accompanied with beautiful olive oil.” And that is what Galvin Dubai is all about, pure ingredients that make tasty dishes with a strong Mediterranean influence. For us to survive and prosper, we have to own our

112

decisions and be true to ourselves. There is a great analogy that if you plant a seed and if you do not care about it and if you do not water it, it is not going to germinate. If you care about it, it is going to grow, and if you pick up the weeds around it, it will blossom. We have to work hard to earn our place amongst great restaurants. You firmly believe in people and you usually work with the same teams to open your restaurants is it something you will reiterate here in CITYWALK? Yes, in fact, I brought the general manager with me, and he is going to coach the Dubai team about service for the next two weeks. The people we train here in Dubai end up being better than the London team; my brother is complaining saying that we send our best people to Dubai and we are missing them in London. How do you select the dishes that will make it onto the menu? It has to be what the best there is at that time. Europe has four seasons, spring summer autumn and winter. I just left London; it was wet, cold and windy. I wanted grass,

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

beef, deep and slow cooked meals. I got to Dubai, and all of a sudden I was craving a salad and that is why the cuisine of the sun is an essential concept to me. Our menu is not a copy paste of our London menu; it was created for Dubai. What are your thoughts on this new generation of chefs that a pushing the boundaries of classic cuisine? I call them the pillars of the future. I can use some examples from London. It is not just here. We had a fantastic head chef with a Michelin Star, and after 12 years with us, he said, “I’m going to move on” so we had to replace him with a Michelin Star Chef. One of our young boys came and said he could do it, and he had worked all the way up to number two. Therefore, I said I was going to give it to him, and everyone else around me said he did not have a star. I said he was going to obtain it. He was Korean. So we took the plane, we went to Korea for a week, we learned about Korean dishes like Kimchi, miso and we looked around the market. Now in London, he is cooking some great food, he has his identity and his star.


SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

113


L A D O L C E V I TA ·

R E S TA U R A N T S

BOUCHON BAKERY

Dubai is now home to the first ever Bouchon Bakery. Located at The Beach, Jumeirah Beach Residence, the establishment is headed by worldrenowned seven Michelin starred chef, Thomas Keller. With a mouth-watering selection of freshly-made delectable delights including sandwiches, soups, quiches and salads, in addition to the brand’s famed artisanal breads and viennoiseries, there’s an abundance of light-bites for lunchtime and evening meals

114

to appease even the fussiest of foodies. Some of Bouchon Bakery’s highlights include a selection of light macarons with seven different flavors to choose from – including the ever-popular Pistachio, and the exclusive local flavor of Coconut & Saffron. Expect to make this new venue a morning routine staple with the wide selection of breakfast beverages and pastries being the perfect morning pick-me-up.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

Bouchon Bakery, The Beach JBR, Dubai Cuisine: French Reservations: +971 4 419 0772


FILINI GARDEN Nestled in the heart of Yas Island, Filini Garden is an open-air Italian restaurant and lounge, serving lunch, dinner and brunch to its guests while offering magnificent views over the Yas Island creek and golf course. Boasting an upper and lower deck, the restaurant aims to offer a relaxed and informal atmosphere to its guests. The lower deck is home to a lush Mediterranean garden where people will be able to enjoy the cool

weather as well as the sunset. The upper deck features amazing views and a wonderful space to enjoy a picturesque dinner. Some of Filini Garden culinary highlights include a deliciously roasted butterball turkey breast served with a chestnut and rosemary stuffing, and cranberry pan juices.

SIGNÉ ¡ EDITION 28

Filini Garden, Yas Island Abu Dhabi Cuisine: Italian Reservations: +971 2 656 2000

115


L A D O L C E V I TA ·

R E S TA U R A N T S

THE POWDER ROOM With a rustic 1920’s look and feel, The Powder Room is one of those places where time seems to have stopped in another era. The concept is simple - a social place where people can enjoy good food and drinks while catching up after a long day of work. With a variety of cheese from around the world available, as well as fresh bread,

116

salty crackers, mixed fruit, dried nuts and homemade chutneys, this lounge is also offering a delicious gooey raclette, perfectly paired with beef bresaola and salami, straight out of Geneva. The Powder Room is open from Tuesday to Thursday and will, faster than you think, become the new after-work hotspot in DIFC.

SIGNÉ · EDITION 28

The Powder Room, Al Fattan Currency House, DIFC Cuisine: Cheese & Cold Cuts Reservations: +971 4 343 5518


Signed, Sealed, Delivered Subscribe to SignĂŠ, the finest curated, luxury lifestyle magazine experience in the region. Refined in content, elegant in aspect, elite in readership.

WWW.SIGNEMAGAZINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE

SCAN ME

Scan the QR Code to view the subscription page on your smartphones or tablets.


Signe Edition 28  

Signe Edition 28 Cover Story: OBJECTIFYING TIME A look at some of Hermès’ most iconic timepieces Other Features: OFF THE BEATEN PATH We ta...

Signe Edition 28  

Signe Edition 28 Cover Story: OBJECTIFYING TIME A look at some of Hermès’ most iconic timepieces Other Features: OFF THE BEATEN PATH We ta...

Advertisement