M E D I U M
page 14
page 9
ISSUE
W E ’ R E
A
W E L L
D O N E
page 86
HEY, MY FLAVOR IS DOWN HERE. SHORT RIBS WITH CHEF ISAAC
FEB. 2019
FROM KOREA TO KINGS HIGHWAY
N 004
KOSHER IN TUSCANY
THE
RESTAURANT ISSUE
22
DISHES THAT TAKE US TO OUR HAPPY PLACE pg
27
USA $5.99 / Canada $6.99 / UK £5 Australia $9 / SA R90 / Israel 25
BUTCHER'S CUT
TYPES OF SHORT RIBS Short ribs come from the chuck section or lower rib cage of the cow, also known as the short plate. It is located underneath the rib section and alongside the brisket.
Flanken Roast The entire short plate, uncut. This is a rich and delicious, centerpiece type roast.
ALTERNATE OPTIONS TO SHORT RIBS: 10
Fleishigs
FEBRUARY 2019
FLANKEN ROAST:
ENGLISH-CUT SHORT RIBS:
MIAMI RIBS:
French Roast, English Cut Short Ribs, Flanken
2nd Cut Brisket, Flanken
Sandwich Steak, London Broil, thinly sliced French Roast w w w.f leishigs.com
BUTCHER'S CUT
English-Cut Short Ribs These are big chunks of meat, cut parallel to the bone and are best cooked using the braising method.
Flanken Cross cut, 2-3� thick slices, flanken is amazing in cholent or in braised dishes like the French Onion Flanken recipe shared on page 17. The flanken strip is usually sold with bones, but can be found without too.
Miami or Korean Short Ribs These are uber-thin slices of the short plate/ribs and look similar to flanken, but are sliced much thinner, about ½-inch thick slices. They are INCREDIBLE marinated and grilled on high heat for a short period of time and are popular in Korean cuisine, hence their name. FEBRUARY 2019
Fleishigs
11
12
Fleishigs
FEBRUARY 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
3
BUTCHER'S CUT
-Bone Short Rib Roast I like to keep bone-in meat simple, and let the flavor that develops from that slow roast on the bone speak for itself. 1 (4-pound) 3-bone short rib or flanken roast 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon black pepper
Preparing the Flanken Roast I season my roast with just salt and pepper, the same way I'd season anything. Liberally. Then I place it on a rack in the fridge uncovered, overnight to let the salt start breaking the meat down, pull out some of the moisture, and let the fridge fan do all the work of drying it out so I get a nice crispy crust. I take out the roast a few hours before before cooking so it can come to room temperature and cook a little more evenly. I want a thin crust, with all that decadent melt in your mouth beefiness that will hopefully follow, if I do it right.
Cooking the Flanken Roast I place the meat in an oven preheated to 275°F, on the middle shelf. I wait an hour until I check on it. It should be beginning to color, the salt and pepper forming specks of crust, the meat beginning to shrink, the color beginning to darken, the crust slowly taking shape. I close the oven and let it hang out for another hour.
MAKE A SIDE: During this time, I make whatever sauce I'm going to serve with the meat. I like to keep it simple, maybe a parsnip puree or some mashed potatoes, and if I'm feeling fancy, I'll also make a jus of sorts to drizzle on top when I serve it.
When Roast is Done At the 3-hour mark, there should be a nice crust, and the meat should be almost falling away from the bone. That’s when you take it out and let it rest. Every piece is different, every oven is different. The bone should give, but shouldn’t pull from a slight touch; it should need some pressure. I like when the meat falls apart on my fork, not on my plate.
Serving the Roast After the meat has rested, I take the bones out. I’d rather clean it in the kitchen then clean it off the table. If you did it right, there should be no meat on the bone when you pull it out. At this point, I carve or portion and serve it. Well, the truth is, I would put the whole thing on a wooden board with some roasted heads of garlic, red onion marmalade, pickled mustard seed because it's simply delicious, with lots of chopped herbs. I invite my guests to take photos for Instagram then dig in. It’s a big piece of meat, it’ll stay hot through your 5 minutes of fame. Don’t like simple? That’s ok. Life doesn’t always have to be simple. You can use your favorite spice mix on it when you put it in the fridge overnight. Curry or Chinese Five Spice? Glaze it if that's your jam by brushing your favorite sauce on the roast and cooking it for 5 minutes in a 400°F oven. You can make a sauce or relish from scratch (like the pineapple salsa or charred scallion relish, see page 17). What's important is to cook the meat until it's tender but not shredding. Don’t shred short ribs, shred brisket. Unless you're really just trying to make a point about how disposable your income is. In that case, I salute you, and I'd love to cook you an extravagant tasting menu in order to cover a new guitar I've had my eye on.
Why It's Worth It We aren’t spending $100 to make pulled beef for 3. This is a centerpiece. It’s the main attraction. It how you’re winning over the in-laws. It’s how you’re showing your wine buddies that you’re a real gourmand. It’s how your wife is telling you that you chose right. It’s important. It’s a simple recipe, but it’s a project.
FEBRUARY 2019
Fleishigs
13
1
Mama’s Kitchen Hummus
It’s easy to forget why hummus is so incredible when consuming the mass produced variety. Eating a plate of the creamiest, smoothest, sensational hummus at Mama’s Kitchen on the outskirts of Crown Heights re-establishes hummus as the transcendent dish it really is.
o N 2
LEVY’S TRUMP BURGER
Levy’s is a south Florida Israeli restaurant powerhouse. Classic shawarma, rice and beans, and kebabs are all on point. Levy’s is a family-run joint that has a sense of humor that is reflected in their original burger creations, like the pastrami-stuffed, dough-wrapped Trump Burger that eats like a burger stuffed bun and is juicy deliciousness.
28
Fleishigs
FEBRUARY 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
TOP 22 See page
45
for recipe
3 No
4
See page
47
for recipe
Fish Grill’s Fish Tacos
Fish Grill (Malibu & Los Angeles) is the OG of tacos in the world of kosher. They established fish plus tacos as a valid eating experience to the kosher consumer decades ago. While tacos are now available at most modern kosher hot spots, nothing compares to Fish Grill, where the fish is grilled over a charcoal grill which gives the fish a wonderful flavor.
No
5
No
6
Wolf & Lamb Chicken Salad
Izzy’s Barbecue Brisket
Charcuterie at Harbour Grill
Wolf & Lamb (with two locations (Brooklyn & Midtown Manhattan), has been serving up steakhouse fare with consistent service for years. The chicken salad (which isn't currently on the menu) is phenomenal and combines grilled chicken thighs with crispy chickpeas and is a meal onto itself.
Izzy’s in Crown Heights serves real-deal Texan inspired barbecue. This style of barbecue refers to cooking over wood on low heat for a long time. Izzy’s has gained national fame for his on-point brisket, but we wouldn’t do this section justice without mentioning his smoked fried chicken sandwich. Epicness in its own right.
Authentic charcuterie is hard to come by. Harbour Grill in Bal Harbour, Florida serves up legit charcuterie with accompaniments such as fig jam and cornichons. Samples include merguez, foie gras, pâté, lamb chorizo, beef bresaola, "bacon" and much more.
(see recipe on page 43)
FEBRUARY 2019
Fleishigs
29
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
TIERRA
52
Fleishigs
FEBRUARY 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
SUR
RESTAURANT
A Kosher Destination with Distinction WRITTEN BY NAOMI ROSS
FEBRUARY 2019
Fleishigs
53
ER G U
O
SH
:
Fleishigs
TS
R
PRESE N U
Restaurant Guide Guide to Dining Out
+
K
I
am honored to introduce the premiere restaurant guide for Fleishigs magazine. I have worked in the food industry for half my life, from catering halls to supermarkets, commercial food production to consulting and marketing. In between all of these food gigs, I have eaten out at more places then I can count and learned a few things along the the way.
Editor's Note: The restaurant guide section serves as our collaborative space and advertorial section.
Whether it’s a night out on the town with friends or loved ones, whether you’ve gone to the same spot dozens of times or it’s a first in a new city, dining out should be and always is an experience. I’ll walk you through each “course” in my guide to dining out, and let you in on my secrets to having an ultimate experience each time.
For starters, call in advance to see if reservations need to be made. Having reservations will help reduce wait time. Try to plan your day accordingly. The tension from being in a rush is never a good feeling. If you’re running a few minutes late, a courtesy call to the restaurant with a heads up is always appreciated. To start your meal off with a nice vibe, thank your host after they show you to your table, and thank your servers throughout the meal. I always ask my server what their name is after they take my initial drink order to show that I view them as an actual person, not just by the title “Excuse me!”
As a rule of thumb, order slowly. See what catches your eye or ask what’s popular on the menu. I don’t recommend jumping ahead and ordering each course within the first 5 minutes of sitting down. Often times diners order more than they can eat. If you’re still feeling hungry at the end of your meal, then order a main dish accordingly, or stick with ordering various appetizers to create a custom tapas-style meal. Order the specialty of the house. A steakhouse should have their steak and meats down pat, and dairy restaurants generally specialize in fish and pasta. Focus on the restaurant’s specialties. I often leave room for dessert.
If the desserts are homemade, order desserts! It may just end up being the best part of the night out. If they are not homemade, it is probably best to skip it and save the calories for another occasion. To tip or not to tip? Honestly, there really is no question. Some eateries include tip in the final bill. By all means, help me out with the math! I always make sure to include a tip no matter what. There was time and effort put in by someone else to make my experience happen. Showing appreciation never hurts. Lastly and most importantly, take in the ambiance and enjoy the company you’re with.
Gabriel Boxer, known as “Kosher Guru” is a leading kosher industry food & restaurant consultant with a thriving social media following. His @KosherGuru Instagram page has 40,500 followers who enjoy being part of his fun and fresh approach to anything and everything kosher. He runs one of the largest and fastest organically growing Kosher Foodie Facebook Groups, “Kosher Guru’s Kosher Nation”. He also hosts “The Nosh”, a radio show which airs every Thursday at 9:30 pm on 620 AM in the NYC area and broadcasts the show on his iTunes and Google Play podcast channel and YouTube channel. He can be found on Twitter @thekosherguru. In his spare time, he writes for Whisk (by Ami Magazine) and shares his top 5 kosher destinations each month in Fleishigs magazine.
64
Fleishigs
FEBRUARY 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
774 Amsterdam Ave New York, NY 10025 917-261-2472 BoruBoruNYC.com resy.com/cities/ny/boru-boru 917-261-2472 I: @BoruBoruNYC F: BoruBoruNYC Mehadrin Kosher under the supervision of Rabbi Avrohom Marmorstein
HIGHLIGHTS BRISKET RAMEN
ME NU
A hearty and flavorful bowl of comfort, with a black garlic and new potato broth, Romanian sausage stuffed dumplings, Koji aged brisket, and caramelized celery root, all on top of our fresh made ramen noodles
SELECTION OF AUTHENTIC, HANDMADE DUMPLINGS Featuring the freshest of local ingredients, and bursting with flavor JAPANESE STYLE BAO BUNS
A soft, steamed, yeast bun, stuffed with a variety of fillings and toppings. The Bao Buns are handmade each day, and are one of Boru Boru's most popular items.
CRAFT COCKTAILS AND IMPORTED SAKE One of our most famous drinks is our Tiki Hurricane, a beautiful and balanced drink, made with a variety of blended rums, tropical juices, and housemade liquors.
EDITOR'S NOTE:
B
oru Boru is the place to go if you would like to explore Asian comfort food and ingredients likely not found on any other kosher restaurant menu. Ingredients that are impossible or difficult to find kosher are made in house for a flavorful, one-of-a-kind dining experience. The food at Boru Boru (located on the Upper West Side of NYC) is inspired by the flavors of the Lower East Side of NYC (a fusion of Chinatown & Jewish Deli). You can experience standouts like their noodle special, classic ramen bowl, brisket ramen bowl, oxtail fried rice and whatever dish they have with duck...order! The restaurant is cozy and modern and has bar seating available too. Their cocktail menu is a great addition and the tiki hurricane, a must try. FEBRUARY 2019
Fleishigs
65