Fleishigs Magazine Issue 024 - February 2021 by Fleishigs Magazine

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BUTCHER'S CUT

This month, we explore the wonders of sweetbreads

EDITOR’S LETTER

GADGETS Tools to cook the issue

UNIQUE STAPLES Mishloach manot inspiration: Our top miniature food gift picks

28 TRENDING Hamantaschen 52

Growing (and cooking with)

PURIM FEAST

saffron

• Pizza and wine party • Persian-inspired feast

NARRATIVE

L'CHAIM Highlighting new whiskey brand DS Tayman

INTERVIEW The Litton brothers of Litton Sukkah

86 TRADITION

MISHLOACH MANOT • Ramen to go • Elevated cereal treats

Ojuelas 90 COOKBOOK Jake Cohen’s new cookbook Jew-ish 96 TRAVEL United States of California 104 BACK POCKET A versatile tart recipe to use multiple ways 108 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Razi’el Winery

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Persian restaurant crawl

112 RECIPE INDEX 114 LAST BITE Brownie decorating kit

EDITOR'S LETTER

THE PURIM ISSUE

We’re not clowning around this Purim. PURIM IS THE JEWISH HOLIDAY to truly let loose. According to the the Talmud, your level of celebration should reach a point where you don’t know the difference between ‘blessed is Mordechai’ and ‘cursed is Haman.’ In addition to the spirited vibe of Purim, the day is marked by reading Megillat Esther, giving money to the poor, sending and receiving mishloach manot and snacking on hamantaschen. The day finishes with a large festive feast. In my opinion, it is the food that makes the party. Food brings people together and provides an opportunity to gather, celebrate and converse. My associations of many amazing moments in life are centered around the food prepared for and subsequently served at various holiday gatherings. As a child, it was all about how much nosh one was able to gather on Purim. We hoarded and collected, did swaps for days after Purim and divided it all according to value. I also have vivid memories of the creative and fun mishloach manot packages that really elevated and enhanced the spirit of the day. No matter how many people you will be having at your Purim feast this year, this is the issue packed with fun, exciting ways to bring the Purim spirit to your table. Since the story of Purim took place in Persia during the 5th century BCE, we set out on an adventure to learn about authentic Persian cuisine from Yoav Antian, who cooked up a feast

inspired by his family's Persian heritage. He shared dishes including gondi (lamb meatball stew), an array of grilled kebabs, tahdig (the most notable Persian crunchy rice dish) and much more. Ahuva Gottdiener takes us through her experience attempting to grow saffron, an exotic spice that is key in Persian cuisine. We also take you on a tour of three incredible Persian restaurants located in Great Neck, NY. Want to do something unexpected and low key for your Purim feast this year? Take inspiration from a few talented Los Angeles women who take us on a meat pizza adventure, with a noknead overnight dough, endless creative toppings and an Italian-inspired tablescape. Beyond feasts, there are countless ways and ideas to celebrate the day — from mishloach manot ideas like ramen in a jar, tarts to go, elevated cereal treats and a DIY brownie “hamantaschen” kit, to cooking outside your comfort zone with the most adventurous Butcher’s Cut we’ve ever done, featuring sweetbreads. We hope that this issue brings fun, joy and inspiration to enhance this unique joyful month of Adar. Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Gabi Nachman CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Dear eater of meat, rejector of milk, words to you we bring and the ability to try a plethora of new things. Your kitchen skills we hone, allowing you to make dishes good down to the bone. Our pictures are fly, our recipes easy, our lemons squeezy. Our articles, like a good babka, are layered and juicy. You see, it’s all for you — the one who reads, makes, bakes and takes the cake. This issue was designed to the eclectic dulcet stylings of Elvis Costello, Sugar Ray and the Goo Goo Dolls

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

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Kalamala Persian-Style Mangal Grill

A mangal grill is a high-quality stainless steel rectangular grill that is traditionally used for Middle Eastern barbecuing. It utilizes coal and generates high, direct heat, which is perfect for grilling kebabs. This version, recommended by Yoav Antian (see feature on page 32 for more), is simple to use and can last a long time with proper care. $139.99 | kalamala.com 2 G&F Products Large BBQ Skewers

Flat (½, ¾ or 1-inch) stainless steel skewers are the best conductors of heat and help kebabs (like those on page 40) cook most evenly. They can also be used for the sweetbread skewers on page 25. The skewers in this 8-piece set, which comes with a heavy-duty zip storage case, have sturdy wooden handles, making skewering and grilling meat, chicken and vegetables a breeze.

$15.34 | homedepot.com 3 Inomata Japanese Rice Washing Bowl with

Strainer

At a 2-quart capacity, this bowl can be used to soak rice, an essential step in making tahdig (recipe and method on page 42). Strain it through the side pour spout for convenience. $4.99 | bedbathandbeyond.com 4 Flour Sack Kitchen Towels

Measuring at 28x28-inches each, these extra long cotton towels are perfect for wrapping the lid when making tahdig (recipe and method page 42). They are thin, absorbent and great to have on hand.

$16.99 for a package of 12 | amazon.com 5 Wilton Nonstick Tart Pans

Fluted tart pans are so versatile and can be used for both savory and sweet recipes, from quiche and pizza to pies and tarts like the jam tart on page 104. Use a 9-inch version for one big tart or the minis for individual tarts, perfect for mishloach manot; with removable bottoms, the tarts will cool quickly and you can serve with ease.

$12.49 for a 9-inch pan; $16.69 for a set of 6 mini | amazon.com 6 Ball Mason Jars

Glass Mason jars are key for pickling and are the ideal containers for meal prep and food storage because they are airtight. We recommend having different sizes on hand for various uses, such as ½ or 1 pint jars for the to-go ramen on page 75. Plus, they are great for mishloach manot, whatever you put in!

Available from Amazon and many major retailers; prices vary based on size 7 Emile Henry Pizza Gift Set

You don’t need to have a pizza oven to own a pizza stone and peel; with a quality pizza stone, you can mimic the texture of wood-fired pizza with a traditional oven at home (see page 60). Simply let the stone heat up in the oven and use the pizza peel to transfer your pizza to and from the stone, then slice with the sleek wood-handled pizza wheel and enjoy.

$99.95 | williams-sonoma.com 8 Cuisinart 3-Piece Mini Spatula Set

*Prices reflected are as of print time; prices, especially on Amazon, can change often.

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Silicone spatulas are a kitchen staple — durable, dishwasher safe and heatproof. Each spatula is one uniform piece, making them super easy to clean. Spray them with nonstick cooking spray before tackling sticky jobs like the cereal treats on page 82. $8.99 | bedbathandbeyond.com

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If you’re looking to up the ante with your mishloach manot this year, consider these unique food gifts that are sure to delight your friends and family.

5 Aufschnitt Beef Sticks

9 Karma Wrapped® Cashews

These 2.2 ounce bags of snacking pickles are the perfect on-the-go snack. They are shelf-stable, available in five different flavors — Sweet, Sour, Cumin-Lime Dill, Garlic Dill and Spicy Sriracha — and can be purchased in single-flavor packs or variety packs. Certified kosher by Star-K.

Aufschnitt, one of the leaders in kosher jerky, has five varieties of beef/chicken sticks that can be purchased on their website individually or in packages of 12 or 24. Minimally processed and made with simple ingredients, they are the perfect addition to a mishloach manot. Certified glatt kosher by Star-K.

$10.43 for a variety package of 5 | walmart.com

$1.99 each; $18 for a package of 12; $29.99 for a package of 24 | aufschnittmeats.com

Karma Wrapped® cashews are air-roasted with the skins for a minimally-processed snack with multiple health benefits. The 1.5-ounce packages are available in flavors like sea salt; peri peri; cinnamon; toasted coconut; golden turmeric; and cocoa dusted. The golden turmeric-flavored cashews are especially addictive and get their deep flavor from sea salt, lime, chili pepper and turmeric. Certified kosher by OU.

Rick’s Picks Snacking Pickles

2 Misceo

Misceo's beloved coffee liqueur is now available in an all new 375-ml bottle, which will be on store shelves just in time for Purim. As an exact replica of its custom-designed 750-ml “sibling,” these limited edition bottles are nicknamed Misceo Mezzo, mezzo being Italian for “half.” Available wherever Misceo is currently sold 3 Oh Snap! Pickling Co. Pickled

Products

Oh Snap’s pickled products come conveniently packed in 3.25 ounce bags. With no brine added, there is little mess, just crunchy, pickled goodness. Besides the five varieties of pickles (Hottie Bites, Hottie Wholes, Sassy Bites, Dilly Bites, Gone Dilly Wholes), there are also pickled carrots, green beans and snap peas. Oh Snap products can be purchased online in variety packs or found individually in the refrigerator section of many chain stores and supermarkets (including Walmart, Aldi, 7-11 and Target). Certified kosher by OU. $20.99-$23.50 for 12 packs | ohsnappickles.com 4 Bartenura Moscato Cans

Famously known as the “blue bottle,” this popular Moscato wine (already available in fullsize 750-ml and mini 375-ml bottle formats) is now available in convenient cans. Each package has four (250-ml) cans. Certified kosher by OU. $59.99 for 12 cans | kosherwine.com

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6 Poshi Vegetable Snacks

If you’re looking for a healthy on-the-go snack, look no further. These steamed and marinated (1.34 ounce) vegetable snack packs are gluten-free, vegan and all-natural. Available in cauliflower, asparagus, artichoke and French bean, these mildly seasoned and shelf-stable snacks are a healthier alternative to bagged snacks. Plus, they are great to have on hand for an impromptu cheese or charcuterie board. Certified kosher by Rabinato de Peru.

$14.99 for a package of 6; $24.99 for a package of 12 | karmanuts.com 10

Butternut Mountain Farm Mini Maple Leaf Syrup Bottle Set

$19.98 for a package of 10 | amazon.com

Vermont produces some of the nation’s best maple syrup. Butternut Mountain Farm is a family business producing maple syrup since the 1940s. Treat your friends to a 1.7-ounce jar of 100% pure, Grade A maple syrup in a cute maple leaf-shaped jar. Certified kosher by OU.

7 Bonne Maman Assorted Jars

$23.94 for a package of 6 | worldmarket.com

These charming 1-ounce jars of preserves, honey and marmalade are a welcome addition to any mishloach manot or gift package. Bonne Maman products are made in France from highquality, simple ingredients. Certified kosher by OU. $32.95 for a package of 30 | amazon.com 8 Noosh Almond Butter

Noosh almond butter packets are perfect for travel, on-the-go snacks and mishloach manot, of course! They come in a variety of flavors such as original, chocolate, chocolate mint, coffee, birthday cake and cupcake and are peanut-free, gluten-free and dairy-free. Certified kosher by OK. $17.99 for a box of 15 | nooshbrands.com

Torani Syrup Trial Size Sampler Pack

Torani syrups add quick flavor to homemade coffees, bringing the coffeehouse experience to your home. This set of trial-sized bottles is perfect for delivering big flavor in a small package. Certified kosher by OK. $4.99 for a package of 3 | worldmarket.com 12

Tabasco 6-Inch Miniatures

What better item to include in a themed mishloach manot than a mini (⅛-ounce) bottle of Tabasco hot sauce? Tabasco bottles bear a “K” symbol, which is acceptable for this product according to the cRc. $9.99 for a package of 6; $24.92 for a package of 30; $32.97 for a package of 48 | amazon.com

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9 11 12

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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SWEETBREADS BY: SHIFRA KLEIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER SWEETBREADS, THE THYMUS gland located in the neck of an animal, were popular among Ashkenazi Jews as a cheaper alternative to chicken. Today, sweetbreads are considered a delicacy and can be an acquired taste. Sweetbreads have a sweeter flavor then other cuts of meat and the Old English word bræd means “flesh" or "meat,” which is how sweetbreads got their name. They are noteworthy for their creamy, smooth texture and rich, one-of-a-kind flavor. It is the most mild-tasting organ meat (aka offal) and definitely worth trying. While sweetbreads can refer to

various glands, including heart and pancreas, in the world of kosher, the thymus gland variety is the only one that you will find — from either veal or beef. Veal sweetbreads, which are milder and sweeter, are preferable to beef sweetbreads. Offal meat is very nutrient dense. Liver is well known for its iron properties and sweetbreads are no different. A 4-ounce portion of sweetbreads contains 14 grams of protein, 64% daily value of vitamin C, a significant amount of iron, potassium and vitamin B, as well as a high fat content.

The Technique Sweetbreads benefit from being poached and pressed to remove any strong offal flavor and improve texture. Once those steps are done, sweetbreads can be marinated, then grilled or pan seared. Sweetbreads can also be dredged and fried, the most popular and best way to introduce yourself to this unique offal. O P T I O N A L : Before poaching the sweet-

breads in water, marinate in non-dairy milk for 1-24 hours to further tenderize the sweetbreads.

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil, then lower heat to a simmer. Once water is simmering, add 2 pounds of sweetbreads. Cook, covered, for 1 hour. 2. Drain and let sweetbreads come to room temperature. 3. Remove membranes, then place sweetbreads in a baking dish. Cover with plastic wrap and weigh down with heavy cans. Refrigerate for 4-24 hours.

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Beer-Battered Sweetbreads Serves: 8

2 ¾ 2 2 2

cups all-purpose flour cup cornstarch teaspoons kosher salt cups beer Canola oil, for frying pounds sweetbreads, poached and pressed (method on page 19) Creamy Ranch, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Combine flour, cornstarch and salt. Slowly whisk in beer until just incorporated. Heat 1-2 inches canola oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. 2. Dredge sweetbreads in batter, then carefully lower into the oil. Fry for 8 minutes, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with Creamy Ranch.

Creamy Ranch Blend ½ cup mayonnaise, ½ cup non-dairy sour cream, 1 packet ranch dressing mix or 1 tablespoon chicken soup mix, ½ cup fresh parsley, 1 garlic clove, 1 tablespoon vinegar and 2 teaspoons sugar until combined. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

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Fill your hearts with joy and glandness

BUTCHER'S CUT

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BUTCHER'S CUT

R F U L W H AT YO SEA U W BE IS H

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Seared Sweetbreads with Fig Balsamic Jam Serves: 6 as an appetizer

¼ 4 4 1

cup canola oil or schmaltz sprigs fresh thyme cloves garlic, smashed pound sweetbreads, poached and pressed (method on page 19) Fig Balsamic Jam (recipe follows) Chopped chives, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a grill pan or cast iron skillet over high heat. Add thyme, garlic and sweetbreads, working in batches, if necessary, so as not to overcrowd the pan.

Fig Balsamic Jam Bring 1 cup balsamic vinegar and ¼ cup sugar to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes, until mixture is reduced and coats the back of a spoon. It will thicken more as it cools. Once cooled, combine reduction with 1 cup fig jam. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. M A K E I T A SA L A D:

Combine 3 tablespoons Fig Balsamic Jam (recipe above), 1 tablespoon olive oil, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Massage into 4 cups thinly sliced kale. Top with cooked sweetbreads, ⅓ cup sliced dried apricots and ¼ cup thinly sliced shallots.

2. Sear for 4 minutes per side. Serve with fig jam and chopped chives. FEBRUARY 2021

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Grilled Sweetbread Skewers Serves: 8

Grilling sweetbreads achieves the perfect balance of a soft and creamy center with a charred exterior. The fig balsamic jam works wonderfully here, as would any similar sweet and tangy sauce. ⅓ 2 1 ½ ½ 2 8 2

cup olive oil tablespoons balsamic vinegar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup chopped chives or scallions, plus more for garnish pounds sweetbreads, poached and pressed (method on page 19) cippolini onions firm pears, cut into 2-inch pieces Fig Balsamic Jam (page 23) Oil, for brushing on grill

1. Combine olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper and chives. Add sweetbreads and marinate for 1-24 hours. 2. Bring a pot of water to boil. Add cippolini onions and boil for 5 minutes, then drain. Once cooled, peel onions. Heat a grill or grill pan over high heat. Brush with oil. Skewer sweetbreads onto bamboo or metal skewers, alternating with onions and pears. If using a gas or charcoal grill, be sure to soak bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes before using. 3. Grill for 5-7 minutes per side. Serve alongside fig jam and chopped chives or scallions.

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TRENDING

WE HAVE YOUR CORNERS CORNERED If there is one confection that symbolizes Purim, it is the triangular-shaped cookie known as the hamentaschen. Over the years, recipe developers, bloggers and Instagram influencers have come up with a myriad of fun, creative updates. From sweet to savory, classic to new, there are enough hamentaschen ideas to keep you busy baking all year long.

Ultimate Hamantaschen Poll: We asked our Fleishigs Instagram family what they prefer and these are the results:

AFTER YEARS OF

MAKING IT BIGâ&#x20AC;¦

PAT I S BA K E RY 'S C RO I SSA N T H A M A N TASC H E N M A K E S O U R L I ST O F U N I Q U E P U R I M C R E AT I O N S. S E E PAG E 31 FO R M O R E O F O U R FAVO R I T E TA K E S O N T H E C L ASS I C C O N F ECT I O N . Wondering what happened to the usual megillah of stuff we end our ads with? Just turn the page, but before you do, remember to Please Misceo Responsibly.

TRENDING

GOURMET COCKTAIL HAMENTASCHEN Alison Gutwaks, a private chef and cooking instructor based in Columbus, Ohio, combined both the food and drink aspects of Purim in her cocktail-inspired hamentaschen that she sells on Etsy along with her gourmet chocolate babka. Made with real alcohol and liqueur, these hamentaschen are kosher pareve, certified by Buckeye Kosher (www.buckeyekosher.org).

Alison's cocktail hamentaschen collection includes the following flavors:

Mojito Hamentashen Yield: 2½ dozen hamantaschen FO R T H E D O U G H :

2 ¾ ⅛ ½ ⅔

cups flour teaspoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt cup (1 stick) non-dairy butter substitute, softened cup sugar 1 egg + 1 egg yolk (reserve the egg white for assembling the hamantaschen) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1-1½ teaspoons peppermint oil 2 tablespoons minced fresh mint leaves or 1 tablespoon dried mint leaves Raw sugar FO R T H E F I L L I N G :

Mojito (recipe follows), Cosmo, Tequila Sunrise, Whiskey Sour, Piña Colada, Strawberry Daiquiri, White Russian, Moscow Mule, Sangria, Appletini, Bloody Mary, Almond Joy and Brandy Alexander. Each box comes with a dozen hamentashen containing a variety for $21. All orders must be in by Friday February 19th to arrive in time for Purim.

1 cup sugar ¾ cup fresh lime juice ¼ cup non-dairy butter substitute ¼ cup corn starch 2 tablespoons rum 1 tablespoon lime zest 2 eggs 1. To make the dough, combine flour, baking powder and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat butter and sugar until creamy and fluffy. Add egg, egg yolk, vanilla, peppermint oil and mint leaves and mix until combined. Slowly add in flour mixture and beat until just incorporated. Divide dough in half, wrap each half in plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours or overnight. 2. To make the filling, add sugar, lime juice, butter, cornstarch, rum and lime zest to a saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir until butter melts and sugar starts to dissolve. Beat eggs in a separate bowl. While whisking, slowly pour some of the lime juice mixture into the eggs to temper them, then pour egg mixture into the saucepan. Continue to whisk constantly until mixture starts to boil and thicken, about 1-2 minutes. Pour into a bowl and refrigerate until cooled completely.

Alison can be contacted on Instagram @alibabka or through her website www.alibabka.com. Link to order the hamentaschen: etsy.me/3bBVP9U

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3. Preheat oven to 375°F and line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. Lightly flour a work surface and roll dough to about ⅛-inch thickness. Use a small glass to cut rounds. Beat the remaining egg white. Fill the rounds with curd and lightly brush the edges with egg white. Lift the bottom and pinch the two corners, then pinch the top to make the third corner. Brush the outside with egg white and sprinkle with raw sugar. Bake for about 12 minutes until lightly browned.

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…WE’RE FINALLY READY

TO MAKE IT SMALL

SOME OF OUR FAV O R I T E T W I S T S ON THIS CLASSIC J E W I S H T R E AT

DONUT H A M E N TASC H E N

from Sesame Bake Shop + Café in Brooklyn, NY C RO I SSA N T H A M E N TASC H E N

from Patis Bakery (various locations in NY and NJ) C O C KTA I L H A M E N TASC H E N

from Alison Gutwaks (see pg. 30)

Two things happen when you think big and create a product that reflects your thinking. First, you get awarded (as in a dozen...and counting), then you get rewarded with a following with all sorts of great ideas for getting more of a following. Ideas like Misceo Mezzo. Smaller in size — so it’s superb for gifting, sharing and of course, Shalach Manos. Yet just as big on the small batch, artisanal craftsmanship that’s made us the goto choice for anyone who takes their coffee — and spirits — seriously. ...Misceo Mezzo, it’s the next big thing.

WWW.MISCEOLIQUEURS.COM INFO@MISCEOLIQUEURS.COM @MISCEOLIQUEURS MISCEO LIQUEURS

Rated 92 by Please Misceo responsibly.

Growing up in a home full of hospitality, where an average Friday night meal included 20-50 guests and Shabbos lunch had 200-300, food was always a central part of Yoav Antian’s life. Born into a large family (he is one of 12!) in Tzfat, Israel, Yoav’s family moved to Crown Heights, Brooklyn when he was six years old. The influences of his parents’ and grandparents’ backgrounds were always present in the food in his house. His paternal grandparents are Mashhadi Persians and maternal grandparents are Yemenites from Aden, so he grew up eating a combination of

Persian, Yemenite and Israeli food. From a young age, Yoav cooked alongside his parents making traditional foods like Jachnun and Israelistyle kishka and cholent for Shabbat. Yoav, a good friend of Fleishigs’ photographer Schneur Menaker, currently lives in upstate New York and works in finance. Schneur was lauding Yoav’s Persian cooking skills just as the planning for the Purim issue was underway. After much discussion, Schneur and Yoav planned the perfect Persian Purim Feast, which Schneur shot and styled in Yoav’s home.

yoav antian

Once you go Persian..

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. .thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no other version

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When did you start cooking? I burnt my first omelette at the age of five in Tel Aviv. I always loved being alongside my mother in the kitchen and would go from pot to pot to help her mix. When I was 10, I started helping my mom make jachnun, a Yemenite delicacy, and eventually took over this responsibility. My father’s job was to make six pots of cholent every Shabbat for kiddush and I would contribute homemade kishka every week. Eventually, my father handed over the reins and I started to make the cholent myself, with his guidance.

What is your background and how did that contribute to your cooking style? My grandmother Esther, of blessed memory, would visit us from Israel for a few months a year. Needless to say, she cooked the best Persian food — a petite woman standing over 4-5 pots, cooking to feed the army that was my family and our guests. I was always in awe of her cooking skills and the flavors of her food. We would joke how she always “designed” her food, so that if you wanted a specific vegetable or meat from the stew, she knew exactly where in the pot to dig the spoon in order to get it.

Yoav can be contacted on Instagram @thekingofswords.

What are some key ingredients to have on hand? Do you have any tips to be successful in Persian cooking? As far as ingredients, the basics are saffron, rosewater, cardamom, turmeric, dried limes and long-grain/basmati rice. Of course there are more complex ingredients, but these are staples. I've always enjoyed all the steps of cooking, which I view as meditation. My biggest tip truly is to enjoy the process.

Tell us about your unique grill. I use a mangal to cook kebabs, which is an opencharcoal barbecue grill that allows you to hang the meat over the fire. This cooks the meat over the heat of the fire as opposed to the heat of grill grates. It imparts a really nice smoky flavor to the meat and keeps it really juicy. Cooking on the mangal is always synonymous with spending time with family and eating good food. Grilling on the mangal is unlike anything else — everyone goes nuts over the flavor.

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PERSIAN FEAST

STEAK KEBAB

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B R EC I P ES BY

Yoav Antian All of the following kebab recipes are traditional fare and should be served with warm pita bread, grilled tomatoes, fresh herbs, lime wedges and a side of saffron rice. EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOTE

KOOBIDEH KEBAB

Yoav recommends flat metal skewers (see Gadgets feature on page 12). Alternatively, use bamboo skewers â&#x20AC;&#x201D; just be sure to soak them in water for at least 30 minutes prior to using to prevent burning. For a fun twist, form mini kebabs around cinnamon sticks, which also add a nice subtle flavor. If you do not have access to a charcoal grill, do not let it stop you from making these kebabs. Simply turn your oven to broil and place kebabs on a baking sheet in the middle rack of the oven. Follow the same timing as you would for the grill.

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PERSIAN FEAST

Kebab Koobideh

Joojeh Kebab

Steak Kebab

Serves: 6

FO R T H E K E BA B S :

The longer this chicken marinates, the tastier and more tender it becomes. It can be prepared 1-3 days in advance for best results.

2 2 2 2 2 2 ½ ¼

pounds ground lamb or beef medium onions, finely grated and drained cloves garlic, grated Zest of 1 lime tablespoons sumac teaspoons kosher salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper teaspoon baking powder teaspoon saffron, dissolved in 1 tablespoon rosewater or hot water

FO R T H E BAST E :

½ 1

cup olive oil teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice

1. Mix meat, onions, garlic, lime zest, sumac, salt, pepper, baking powder and saffron water until just combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, preferably overnight. 2. With a bowl of water nearby, wet your hands and divide the kebab mixture onto 10-12 metal skewers, molding it as tightly as you can. Combine olive oil and lime juice for the baste and set aside. 3. Heat a charcoal grill to high, brush oil on grates, then place the skewers on the grill. Turn after a few seconds and then again after another few seconds. This will help the meat stick to the skewer. Grill for about 5 minutes, until the kebabs are charred on the outside. Baste skewers with the olive oil-lime juice mixture right before removing from the grill.

FO R T H E K E BA B S :

¾ ¼ 2 2 1 2 ¼ 2 4

cup olive oil cup apple cider vinegar Zest and juice of 2 limes large onions, peeled and thinly sliced cloves garlic, peeled and crushed teaspoon sea salt teaspoons freshly ground black pepper teaspoon saffron, dissolved in 1 tablespoon rose water or hot water pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces tomatoes, halved

FO R T H E BAST E :

½ 1

cup olive oil teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice

1. Combine olive oil, apple cider vinegar, lime zest, lime juice, onions, garlic, salt, pepper and saffron water. Add chicken, toss well and refrigerate for a minimum of 24 hours. Turn the chicken a few times during the process. 2. Alternate threading tomatoes and chicken onto metal skewers. Combine olive oil and lime juice for the baste and set aside. 3. Heat a charcoal grill to high, then place the skewers on the grill. Baste the skewers with the olive oil-lime juice mixture and grill for 8-15 minutes. Baste skewers again before removing from the grill.

FO R T H E K E BA B S :

1 ½ 1 ½ ¼ 2

2 4

large onion, peeled cup olive oil Zest of 1 lime tablespoon sea salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon saffron, dissolved in 1 tablespoon rosewater or hot water pounds boneless rib steak or shoulder london broil, pounded thinly to 1/2-inch thickness tablespoons sumac tomatoes, halved

FO R T H E BAST E :

½ 1 ¼ ½

cup olive oil tablespoon lime juice teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Grate the onion over a bowl, then squeeze through a fine mesh sieve, reserving the liquid and discarding the pulp. Add olive oil, lime zest, salt, pepper and saffron water and whisk to combine. 2. Cut pounded meat into 3-inch piece strips and thread onto metal skewers by holding the meat down with your palm and slowly working the skewer into the meat. Skewer tomatoes separately. Place in a large dish and pour marinade over the kebabs. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes. 3. Combine olive oil, lime juice, salt and pepper for the baste and set aside. 4. Heat a charcoal grill to high, then place the skewers on the grill. Grill for 1 minute, then baste and flip. Cook for 1 more minute for medium-rare or longer, depending on preference of doneness. Tomatoes should be nicely charred. Baste skewers one more time, then remove from the grill. Immediately sprinkle with sumac.

E D I TO R'S N OT E :

Add sumac to

your favorite pickled onion recipe and serve alongside kebabs — the perfect accompaniment.

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Sangak is a Persian flatbread famous for its 3-foot length. Kosher sangak can be found in select Middle Eastern markets or the bread aisle of large supermarkets.

KOOBIDEH KEBAB

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PERSIAN FEAST

Gondi (Persian Lamb Meatballs) Serves: 4-6

I don’t think I have ever made this dish the same way twice. I’m always adding different vegetables and beans into the broth, depending on what I have on hand. FO R T H E M E AT BA L LS :

1 2 1 ½ ½ ½

pound ground lamb medium onions, grated teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon ground cardamom teaspoon saffron, dissolved in 2 tablespoons rosewater or hot water cup chickpea flour

FO R T H E B ROT H :

2 1 1½ ½ ½ 4 2 ½

tablespoons oil large onion, thinly sliced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon turmeric cups chicken broth or water dried limes, optional cup chopped herbs (parsley, cilantro and/or mint), optional

1. Prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and set aside. Mix lamb, grated onions, salt, pepper, cardamom and saffron water until just combined. Slowly add chickpea flour and continue to mix until just incorporated. Shape into walnutsized meatballs and place on the prepared baking sheet. 2. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until golden brown. Add salt, pepper and turmeric and sauté for another 2 minutes. Add chicken broth, bring to a boil and gently add the meatballs. Bring to a boil again, then reduce heat to medium-low. Add chopped herbs, if using. Cover and simmer for 35-45 minutes.

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Saffron Rice with Tahdig Serves: 12

Tahdig literally means “bottom of the pot” and is a Persian delicacy. Growing up, my grandmother would call it “benekar,” which means crispy rice. It’s the most coveted part of the entire dish!

4 ¼ 1 ¾ ¼

cups basmati rice cup kosher salt, divided lemon, halved cup oil, divided teaspoon saffron, dissolved in 1 teaspoon rosewater or hot water egg yolks

Like any stew, Gondi can be dressed up with various additions. In this case, Yoav added leeks and chickpeas, which simmered along with the meatballs. Feel free to keep it classic or customize based on your taste. You can also add a bit of extra pizzazz to the broth with dried limes, also known as black limes,

1. Check the rice for any particles, then place in a large container and cover with lukewarm water. Move the rice around a little with your hand. The water will become cloudy. Drain the rice and repeat the process 5 times until the water runs clear.

which are sun-dried to preserve them.

2. Soak the rice with 2 tablespoons salt in 8 cups of water for 2-6 hours. Drain rice. 3. Bring 10 cups of water to a boil in a large pot. Once boiling, add the drained rice, remaining 2 tablespoons salt and lemon. Boil rice, uncovered, for 6-10 minutes. When the rice is soft and floating to the top, discard lemon and drain rice. Rinse with cold water. 4. Whisk ½ cup oil, ¼ cup water, saffron water and egg yolks. Using a spatula, mix in 3 heaping spoons of the parboiled rice and stir to coat. Add to the bottom of the pot, shake it into an even layer and pat it down. Working one spoonful at a time, add the rest of the parboiled rice into the center of the pot in a conical/pyramid shape. Cover the pot and cook over medium heat for about 10-15 minutes. 5. Mix remaining ¼ cup of oil with ½ cup water and pour over the rice. Wrap the lid with a thin tea towel or a few paper towels and cover the pot so that steam doesn’t escape. Cook over low heat for 55 minutes. 6. Remove from heat, keep the pot covered and place on top of a damp cloth to cool. This will help separate the tahdig from the bottom of the pot. Let cool for 15 minutes, then invert the tahdig onto a serving platter. Serve immediately.

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PERSIAN FEAST

Rosewater Cake Serves: 8

cup (1 stick) non-dairy butter substitute, at room temperature 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 eggs 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 teaspoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons rosewater 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup almond flour 2 teaspoons ground cardamom 1 teaspoon baking powder ¾ teaspoon kosher salt Rosewater Glaze (recipe follows) ¼ cup chopped pistachios, for garnish (optional) 3 tablespoons rose petals, for garnish (optional)

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1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line an 8-inch baking pan with parchment paper and set aside. 2. Cream butter, oil, eggs and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add lemon zest, lemon juice, rosewater and vanilla extract. 3. Add flour, almond flour, cardamom, baking powder and salt and mix on low speed until just incorporated. Pour batter into the prepared baking pan. Bake for 40 minutes or until the cake is lightly golden on top and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool. 4. Once cool, glaze cake, then sprinkle with crushed pistachios and rose petals, if desired.

Rosewater Glaze Combine 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar, 1 tablespoon rosewater and 1½ tablespoons non-dairy milk. Microwave for 10-15 seconds and whisk until smooth.

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After documenting Yoavâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s incredible Persian feast for this issue, we decided to embark on a Persian restaurant food crawl in Great Neck, NY, a hotspot of kosher Persian cuisine.

ANY PERSIAN JEWS fled to the United States before and after the Iranian Revolution of 1979. The Iranian Jewish population decreased from about 100,000 in 1979 to just about 12,000 as of 2018. Those who fled to New York ended up establishing strong Persian Jewish roots in Great Neck and Kings Point, home to over 40,000 Persian Jews. Great Neck is a recommended food destination for anyone looking to try authentic, real-deal Persian cuisine. There are three meat restaurants â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Colbeh, Chatanooga and Shiraz â&#x20AC;&#x201D; all within a few miles of one another. With similar menus, we went to all three to sample the unique flavors of traditional Persian cuisine. All three restaurants offer cold (sardi) and hot (garmi) appetizers, kebabs, stews and rice dishes. Many of the appetizers are similar to what you would find in a classic Israeli restaurant (think babaganoush and fresh chopped salad) with some Persian specialties like tahdig (crunchy rice usually served alongside stew), dolmeh (stuffed grape leaves) and gondi (meatball soup). We strategized by ordering the classics, plus specific menu items unique to each restaurant. Colbeh and Chatanooga offered some Israeli additions, like falafel and schnitzel, as well as some pasta dishes, but most of the menu is classic Persian food. Shiraz had the most diverse menu, with all of the Persian classics, as well as a variety of sandwiches, pasta and steaks.

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

CHATANOOGA 37 Cutter Mill Road, Great Neck, NY 11021 (516) 487-4455 | chatanoogarestaurant.com

KEBABS AND RICE

working in the jewelry industry, Menashe and Shlomit Raphael opened Chatanooga in 2001 to follow their passion to bring fresh, authentic, 100% homemade Persian food to the Great Neck community. "This is the food we know and grew up with," shares Shlomit. Although it was the second Persian restaurant to open its doors, Chatanooga (unrelated to the city in Tennessee and actually named for a famous teahouse in Iran) soon became a community institution with loyal customers returning for the uncompromising standard of food and the warmth the Raphael family has brought to the dining scene. FTER MANY YEARS

UPON FIRST BEING SEATED, guests are served a bowl of assorted pickles, Chatanooga’s famous tahdig and two classic Persian stews, ghormeh sabzi — an herb kidney bean stew with meat and limes — and a lentil tomato stew. The tahdig at Chatanooga was super crunchy and balanced well with the warm savory stews that were served alongside. Other standout appetizers were the dolmeh — homemade sweet and sour meat and rice stuffed grape leaves — and the gondi — chicken meatballs served in a chicken broth. Menashe explained that they make their broth with all of the leftover

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chicken parts and let it cook for hours to create the ultimate Jewish penicillin. Another enjoyable appetizer was haleem bademjon, a warm tomato-based eggplant dish served with paper-thin pita bread. Juicy, tender and full of flavor, the ground meat and chicken kebabs were served alongside charred tomatoes, raw onion slices and a choice of rice, French fries, grilled vegetables or fresh salad. The kebabs were laid out over a large, flat pita bread to soak up the savory juices. (As we were enjoying our meal, we noticed containers of a white sauce being added to many to-go orders. After being informed that it was a mayo-based customer favorite, we ordered some to try. It was flavored with lemon and dill and was a great accompaniment to the kebabs.) The rice (polow) was cooked to perfection and we enjoyed the various options — sour cherry, carrot orange, dill lima bean and red currant. Our personal favorite

was the carrot-orange variety for its slightly sweet and fragrant note, followed by the sour cherry rice, then the dill rice. Beyond the kebabs, Chatanooga was the only restaurant that had boneless, skinless chicken thighs as a kebab option, which is our personal favorite. We also ordered the chicken fingers and fries plate for our 4-year old. It was super fresh, crunchy and came in a huge portion. Chatanooga offers great service and an authentic menu with a wide variety of options. Wine offerings available as well. www.fleishigs.com

COLBEH 75 N Station Plaza, Great Neck, NY 11021 (516) 466-8181 | www.colbeh.com

HE OLDEST STANDING restaurant of the group, Colbeh opened in 1983 by Pejman Toobia, who impressively created a restaurant brand that is almost 40 years old, with locations in Great Neck, Manhattan and Roslyn. The Great Neck location is centrally located within minutes of the LIRR and has an elegant, steakhouselike atmosphere. UPON ORDERING OUR meal, we were served warm, toasted pita bread alongside assorted pickles and tahdig with ghormeh sabzi (the classic Persian meat stew). This was the one spot of the group that offered fresh, toasted pita and we appreciated the extra gesture. Pita bread in all Persian restaurants is very flat in comparison to the classic fluffy pita that most are accustomed to. In addition to the tahdig, we ordered Persian-style potato salad with eggs and pickles, as well as gondi (Persian meatballs). While traditionally served

PERSIAN PITA BREAD AND ASSORTED PICKLES

CHICKEN KEBAB WITH ORANGE RICE

in a warm chicken broth, Colbeh’s version of gondi was served on its own. While it was delicious, we missed the broth. The ground meat kebab and white chicken kebab were full of flavor and were served alongside the classic kebab accoutrements — rice, raw onions, charred tomatoes and charred onions. In addition, we were served a healthy handful of fresh herbs that added

freshness and vibrancy to the kebabs. As part of our main course, we ordered the bademjoun, a unique tomato-based eggplant stew with tender, braised veal. While we came primarily for the authentic Persian food, we appreciated that there was a steak option on the menu, as well as a variety of fish kebabs. Beyond the food, the ambiance from the recently renovated space was the most modern of all the restaurants.

SHOP DELIGHT 4 Welwyn Road #6, Great Neck, NY 11021 (516) 466-1300 | www.shopdelight.com

HIS KOSHER SUPERMARKET (located across from the LIRR tracks) packs a lot into its space — fresh produce (including traditional Persian produce like fenugreek) and tons of kosher products, as well as bakery, sushi, butcher, deli, kebab and fish counters. However, what makes this supermarket most unique is the large variety of Persian ingredients available. We found dried limes, rosewater, unique cheeses, desserts (like yellow halva — a saffron and cinnamon infused rice pudding) and fresh baked sanjak flatbreads (an authentic bread that can be as big as two feet long). The fresh kebab and shawarma counter in the back of the store was another unexpected surprise from what we are used to in traditional kosher supermarkets. There was an array of kebabs marinating, two shawarma spits and fresh vegetables and accompaniments to make wraps (with sangak SANGAK BREAD bread), sandwiches and platters. FEBRUARY 2021

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

SHIRAZ 770 Middle Neck Road, Great Neck, NY 11024 (516) 487-6666 | www.shirazgn.com

HIRAZ HAD THE most diverse menu of the bunch, including classic kebabs, five varieties of rice, classic appetizers like gondi, dolmeh and tahdig and a few stews. Shiraz is famous for their large portions of rice served alongside the kebabs. The sour cherry rice at Shiraz is flavored with rose water, a unique floral flavor that we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find elsewhere. The classics were well prepared and the dill-based white sauce (similar to the one offered at Chatanooga) made for the ultimate dip to everything we ate. Unlike the other Persian restaurants, Shiraz had a variety of other options on the menu too. We ordered the Yemenite pizza, which was topped with a sweet and savory sauce, ground beef and Yemenite spices. It was crunchy and packed with flavor. The chicken bravas was another unique offering; shredded grilled chicken served with their famous potato bravas â&#x20AC;&#x201D; fried diced potatoes doused in a secret sauce that can be ordered as a side on their own as well. Shiraz also has salads, steak, pasta, grilled sandwiches and a cocktail menu. The sandwiches are a welcome addition as a satisfying meal option for under $20, without going too far outside of your culinary comfort zone.

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YEMENITE PIZZA KEBABS AND RICE

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By: Ahuva Gottdiener

exA pensive spice in the world and, thea $15most planter N ADVENTUROUS BLOGGER

from Home Depot â&#x20AC;&#x201D; what could go wrong? A lot, apparently. In September of this year, I suddenly developed the urge to try and grow my own saffron. I've been growing food all my life and these were just flowers with very valuable stigmas. No big deal, right? I ordered a package of saffron corms (the bulbs of the saffron crocus) and made a trip to my local home improvement store to pick up a planter and a bag of potting mix. Along with a bit of chicken wire I had in the shed to protect the corms from hungry squirrels, I was ready. I planted the corms as per the package instructions and some trusted gardening websites. Then I waited. A few little spiky grass-like leaves grew, followed by some more. Apparently, the flowers are supposed to come up in late fall and the leaves usually grow in the spring, so I think I had some confused saffron. That, or growing the world's most prized crocus was a lot harder than it looks. Either way, I'll have to stick to buying my saffron for now.

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Saffron comes from the stigmas that grow in the middle of a particular type of crocus flower that blooms in the fall. Each flower contains only three stigmas and the saffron has to be handharvested; it takes 70,000 flowers to make one pound of saffron! Saffron has a distinctive color and aroma and a rich, honey-like flavor that has long been a target of fraud. Sellers have been found adulterating it with marigold petals, threads of lily flowers or turmeric. While none of these have the same color, aroma or flavor of true saffron, at $5,000 per pound, fraud can be tempting to the unscrupulous. Saffron is most often sold at $20 a gram (compared to gold, which sells at approximately $60 a gram) â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it's a good thing a little of it goes a long way in cooking. Saffron was first found in the Mediterranean region and was used in ancient times medicinally, as well as for seasoning and dye or paint. The Persians were the first people to cultivate it, growing fields of the beautiful purple crocus flowers. They used copious amounts of saffron in everything from dyes for their famous carpets to medicines, cosmetics, tea and of course, to season their food.

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NARRATIVE

Saffron is popular in Mediterranean and Indian cuisine and has been grown in many parts of the world. There was even a thriving saffron-growing industry in Saffron Walden in England in the 1500s and 1600s. Today, most saffron comes from Iran, Afghanistan, India and China. After my spectacular failure at getting my saffron to bloom, I did some research. Apparently, I wasn't the only one who had difficulty this year. Some other planting enthusiasts had the exact same trouble with their saffron. And even some saffron crocuses that had bloomed in the past just refused this year, to the frustration of hobbyist saffron growers. Chalk it up to just another strange thing in the air in 2020!

Ahuva Gottdiener of Homegrown Kosher is a foodie dissident. Bridging the food knowledge gap between ground and plate, Ahuva shares her fascination with the fundamentals through education, inspiration and connection. Widely lauded as perhaps the most bona fide artisan sourdough baker, selling her loaves in supermarkets in Monsey, NY, and authentic suburban homesteader (seriously, she raises chickens with her family in Wesley Hills, NY!), Ahuva's love for the origins of our sustenance provides fuel for her mission of connection. To learn more about Ahuva and how you can start your own food identity, you can follow her on Instagram @ homegrownkosher and read the blog at homegrownkosher.com

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Fleishigs

NARRATIVE

Sweet Tart Crust This crust recipe will become a favorite and its uses are endless. 1 1 2-5 ½ 1 ½ ¼

egg yolk teaspoon pure vanilla extract teaspoons non-dairy milk, divided cup (1 stick) non-dairy butter substitute or margarine cup all-purpose flour cup confectioners’ sugar teaspoon fine sea salt

1. Whisk egg yolk, vanilla and 2 teaspoons nondairy milk until combined; chill in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes. 2. Cut the butter into ½-inch pieces and freeze for 15-20 minutes until very cold. 3. Add flour, confectioners’ sugar and salt to the bowl of a food processor fitted with an “S” blade; blend until well combined. Add the cold, cubed butter and pulse a few times until the mixture is crumbly and just combined. Some pea-sized pieces of the butter should still be visible. 4. Transfer to a bowl and add the egg mixture. Using your hands or a rubber spatula, gently fold the wet ingredients into the dry until a rough dough forms. If the dough seems dry, add up to 3 more teaspoons of non-dairy milk, 1 teaspoon at time, as needed. 5. Transfer dough to a piece of plastic wrap and press into a 6-inch disk. Wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Once chilled, place on a floured surface and roll out into a 12-inch circle. Dust the top with flour, fold in half and then in half again. Carefully transfer to a 9½-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Gently press dough into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Fold over any excess dough and use the top edge of the pan to cut it off. If your crust tears, use some of the excess dough to patch any holes. 6. Freeze crust for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut a square of heavy duty foil and press it into the bottom and sides of the frozen tart crust. Fill with pie weights or sugar, then place on a sheet pan and bake for 25 minutes. Carefully remove foil and pie weights and bake for an additional 5-10 minutes until golden brown. Let

• Sugar makes the best pie weight. It can be saved and reused; after a few uses, it becomes toasted sugar, which adds a delicious flavor to your cakes and cookies!

Saffron Crème Brûlée Tart Everyone loves the creamy texture of a classic crème brûlée. This version, which is non-dairy, is elevated with the floral flavors of saffron. It can be omitted, if desired, but I implore you to try it at least once! N OT E : The tart can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours once baked and cooled. Remove from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before torching. Remove plastic wrap and very gently blot any condensation with a paper towel. Let come to room temperature,

then sprinkle with sugar and torch until golden. 2

cups full-fat coconut milk (such as Roland) ¼ cup sugar ¼ teaspoon sea salt ¼ teaspoon saffron threads, lightly crushed 2 eggs 2 egg yolks 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 pre-baked Sweet Tart Crust (recipe above) ⅓ cup turbinado sugar or raw sugar, for sprinkling 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Add coconut milk, sugar, salt and saffron to a small saucepan over medium-low heat. In the meantime, add eggs and vanilla to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat on medium speed until foamy. Stir the coconut milk mixture until it just starts to simmer, making sure that it doesn’t come to a full boil.

N OT E S :

2. Once the coconut milk is heated, add it to the mixer in a very slow stream while on medium speed. Mix for 30 seconds until fully combined, then return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture reaches 160-165°F. It should thicken slightly and coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat. Place prepared tart crust on a sheet pan and slowly pour in the filling.

• I tested this recipe with both non-dairy butter substitute (Miyoko's is particularly delicious in this) and margarine. It works with both, but the amount of non-dairy milk you will need to add when the crust comes together will vary

3. Bake for 20-30 minutes until just set in the center, then let cool to room temperature. Sprinkle with a thin layer of turbinado sugar and torch to caramelize. Let sugar set for a few minutes before cutting and serving.

cool before filling.

depending on which you use and even which brand. Start with the lesser amount and only add more if needed.

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If you do not have a torch, you can use the broiler function of your oven, but watch your tart carefully. It takes just seconds for it to go from caramelized to burnt. A torch is the best tool for the job, but those cute little "kitchen torches" are just that â&#x20AC;&#x201D; cute. They will work, but take some time, so have patience. I highly recommend an actual propane torch. I use the Bernzomatic TS8000 with a mini propane canister (like the type for travel propane grills). It makes quick work of caramelizing the tart and you look really cool while doing it!

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L E F T TO R I G H T:

JILL SHARFMAN (LET MY PEOPLE EAT PODCAST CO-HOST) CHANIE EHRENTREU (BOSS MAIDEL PODCAST HOST AND SHMUZY CO-CREATOR) LAYLA ZIRKIND (FOOD STYLIST AND CONTENT CREATOR) ADELE BEINY (LIFESTYLE EXPERT)

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B Y: A D E L E B E I N Y R E C I P E S B Y: L AY L A Z I R K I N D P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y: L I N D A A B E S E R A

Nestled in the picturesque Los Angeles backyard of Chanie and Shloime Ehrentreu, creators of the new social app Shmuzy, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find an authentic charcoal brick pizza oven (doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t everyone have one in their backyard?). Their sweet garden transports you to another time and place and provided all the inspiration we needed for our dreamy Purim tablescape.

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PIZZA PARTY

been home for months now, and although we may be tethered to our couches, we can still dream of travel and imagine the faroff places we would love to visit. We decided to transport you to Italy with an outdoor celebration inspired by the Tuscan countryside. (East Coasters, I know that Purim is still a cold time of year and I feel for you. Perhaps our Italian Purim will give everyone a chance to warm up, virtually speaking.) The Italians have a saying, “Meno pregiato è il pesce e meglio il brodo riesce,” which means, “The less noble the fish, the better the broth.” Oh, those clever Italians! They understand that the most humble dishes are often the most delicious. The countryside of Italy excels in no-fuss, high-quality food with an emphasis on gathering tasty ingredients. Go easy on the frills. In other words, they don’t waste time with napkin folds. In general, Purim is a fun and less-than-formal holiday. Layla Zirkind, food stylist and culinary content creator (@laylazirkind), put together a feast for the eyes and the soul centering around pizza, a food group that is no-frills and can be easily elevated. It’s no surprise that she went in that direction, it’s in her DNA — Layla’s father is behind Pizza Pita, a popular pizza shop in Montreal. We may be eating pizza, but it’s with a fleishigs twist (pun MANY OF US HAVE

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intended). All of the food was designed to be eaten with your hands, inspired by the Italian saying, “Pollo, pizza e pani si mangiano con le mani,” which means, “Eat chicken, pizza and bread with your hands.” Layla’s menu was curated with seasonality in mind and included local ingredients, such as grilled artichokes and blood oranges. Each pizza offering was unique, varied and elevated with deep, interesting flavors from roasted fennel to braised beef cheeks. Of course, it wouldn’t be an elegant Italian pizza party without wine pairings for each pizza. As a lifestyle and tablescape expert, I was tasked with creating the backdrop that would bring the Purim table to life. The last thing we need right now is another set of rules, especially when it comes to setting a table, so I kept it authentic, warm and inviting — just the ticket for a Purim meal. I brought heavy, rustic ceramic dishes and faded red napkins, which reminded me of the hot Mediterranean sun. The table displayed a cornucopia of local garnishes and fresh breads. Chanie, the gracious hostess, lit the candles, which set the tone for a meal that would run into the evening hours, as any Purim feast would. The look came together seamlessly. As the sun gently set, we made a l’chaim. May the future hold the blessings of good health, happiness and prosperity for all. Happy Purim!

Adele Beiny is a lifestyle expert and founder of the website www.lifeslookingood.com. Across her digital platform, Adele covers everything from personal style and beauty tips to ways to enhance living spaces and elevate tables. More recently, she’s gone deeper and more intimate on her new podcast, Life Unfiltered. Adele can be contacted on Instagram @lifeslookingood. www.fleishigs.com

*Food sponsored by Western Kosher supermarket in Los Angeles. Follow them on Instagram @westernkosher for more food-related content. *Shmuzy is a new social app for connecting more intimately with your favorite Jewish influencers, authors, chefs and beyond. Layla, Adele, Jill and Chanie can all be found on Shmuzy. FEBRUARY 2021

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PIZZA PARTY

No-Knead Pizza Dough Yield: 5 balls of dough

For years I’ve been making Jim Lahey’s noknead artisanal bread. What I love about the recipe is that it’s deceivingly simple to make and always impresses guests. I’ve adapted his recipe with honey to help the fermentation process. This dough needs about 18 hours to work its magic, so plan accordingly. N OT E S :

• Mixing by hand is truly the magic trick. Hands impart heat, which helps build gluten. • Pizza dough freezes wonderfully. 3¾ ¼ 2 1

cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting teaspoon active dry yeast teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon honey

1. Add flour, yeast and salt to a bowl, mixing lightly with your fingers. Add honey and 1½ cups water and continue mixing with your hands until all incorporated. The dough won’t be perfect. Cover the bowl

Market-Fresh Pizza Yield: 1 large pie or 2 small pies

1 ¼ 3 1 1

acorn squash, sliced into thin wedges bulb fennel, sliced into thin wedges cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste cups kale Basic Vinaigrette (recipe follows) blood orange, very thinly sliced ball No-Knead Pizza Dough (recipe above) Almond Feta (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Prepare 2 parchment-lined baking sheets. Arrange acorn squash on one and fennel on the other. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 30 minutes. 2. Massage kale well with vinaigrette and set aside. 3. Roll out pizza dough and brush the sur-

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with plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature for 18 hours. 2. After 18 hours, turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide dough into 5 equal portions. Working one at a time, flatten each piece of dough, then fold each side over itself like an envelope. Shape the dough into a nice circular ball and turn it so that the seam faces down. If the dough seems sticky, dust with a bit more flour. Cover the balls of dough with plastic wrap and let rest for 1 hour. 3. Working one at a time, dust dough generously with flour and stretch out dough by holding it over your knuckles and pulling gently. Alternatively, use a wine bottle or rolling pin to roll the dough into a 10-inch disk. Place on parchment paper, add desired toppings (see below), then cook according to one of the following methods. We were lucky enough to use an outdoor pizza oven, which can crank out pizzas quickly once it has reached a very hot temperature. While this is not feasible for most, the following three methods can be used at home to create the ultimate pizza.

face with the remaining tablespoon of extravirgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Top with blood orange slices, roasted fennel and roasted squash. 4. Bake according to one of the methods above. Before serving, top with dressed kale and crumbled almond feta. Basic Vinaigrette: Whisk ¼ cup olive oil, ¼ cup lemon juice, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 teaspoon honey, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper until combined.

Almond Feta This is the best non-dairy substitute for when you want a layer of texture and flavor. I add it on top of salads and grain bowls. It also tastes incredible as a simple spread. N OT E : Almond feta can be made 1 day in advance. You can also look for Violife vegan feta cheese in stores.

1½ cups raw almonds 2 cloves garlic

OV E N : Place a baking sheet upside down in the oven, then preheat to 500°F. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven and transfer the dough from the parchment paper onto the heated baking sheet (the underside). Bake for 10 minutes or until charred to your liking. CAST I RO N : Place a large cast iron skillet in the oven, then preheat to 500°F. Once the pan is super hot, carefully remove it and dust with flour. Transfer pizza from the parchment paper into the pan. Bake for 10 minutes, until you see the sides of the dough crisping up. P I Z Z A STO N E : Place a pizza stone in the oven, then preheat to 500°F. Sprinkle a pizza peel or the bottom of a baking sheet with flour or cornmeal. Transfer pizza from the parchment paper to the peel, then slide directly onto the hot pizza stone in the oven. Bake, rotating halfway through, until the bottom of the crust is crisp and the top is blistered, about 5–7 minutes.

2 tablespoons olive oil ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1. Place almonds in a jar or container and cover with water. Let soak for 24-36 hours at room temperature. For a quicker option, place almonds in a pot of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 1 minute. 2. Drain almonds and rinse with fresh water. Peel the skins from the almonds by placing each almond in between your fingers – the skin should come right off with a gentle push. Discard skins. 3. Place peeled almonds into a food processor or blender with garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, ½ cup water and salt. Blend until smooth, about 4 minutes. Transfer mixture to a cheesecloth and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Gather the cheesecloth and secure with a twist tie. Place in a bowl or container and refrigerate for 24-36 hours. 4. Remove feta from the cheesecloth and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. www.fleishigs.com

PIZZA PARTY

L AY L A'S N OT E : I take pizza toppings very seriously. As the daughter of the owner of the famous Pizza Pita in Montreal, I have explored many pizza toppings and how different tastes and textures can elevate a pizza. Living in beautiful Los Angeles, where seasonal bounty is so readily available, has allowed me to stretch my palate to include ingredients that are in season at Purim time. I highly recommend brushing the surface of the dough with a light layer of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper before adding toppings.

A solid bottle of wine balances and enhances almost any meal and acts as a palate cleanser. Gabriel Geller shares the perfect wine pairings that bring out each pizza's unique flavor. Beef Cheek Pizza: Segal Whole Cluster Syrah 2018 or Koenig Pinot Blanc 2018 Beef Fry Pizza: Jezreel Valley Gewürztraminer 2019 or Capçanes Peraj Petita 2019 Pesto Pizza: Herzog Special Reserve Albariño 2018 or Bartenura Prosecco Baharat Meat Pizza: Yatir Creek 2016 or Gush Etzion Sauvignon Blanc 2019

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Beef Cheek Pizza Yield: 1 large pie or 2 small pies

Any pulled beef or braised meat would work well for this pizza — the perfect vehicle for leftovers! 1 2 3 1 1 1 ¼

tablespoon olive oil leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced russet potatoes ball No-Knead Pizza Dough (recipe above) tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Braised Beef Cheeks (recipe follows), shredded

1. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add leeks and sauté slowly until caramelized, about 20 minutes. Set aside. 2. Peel potatoes and place in a pot of salted water. Bring to a boil and cook for about 12 minutes, until fork tender. Drain and let cool, then slice thinly. 3. Roll out pizza dough and brush with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Press the potato slices into the dough, overlapping in concentric circles. Top with shredded beef cheeks and caramelized leeks. 4. Bake according to one of the methods above.

Braised Beef Cheeks Preheat oven to 300°F. Place 2 pounds beef cheeks in a 9x13-inch dish. Top with ½ cup BBQ sauce and ½ cup wine. Cover tightly and cook for 4 hours. Let cool, then shred. 62

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Beef Fry Pizza Yield: 1 large pie or 2 small pies

1 1 1

1 1 1 ½

(4-ounce) package beef fry tablespoon maple syrup ball No-Knead Pizza Dough (recipe above) (16-ounce) can crushed tomatoes cup diced pineapple small red onion, thinly sliced cup roasted red peppers, thinly sliced (optional)

1. Heat a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add beef fry and a drizzle of maple syrup. Cook until fat is rendered, about 5 minutes. Drain on a paper towel-lined plate. 2. Roll out pizza dough and brush with crushed tomatoes. Top with pineapple, onions and roasted red peppers. 3. Bake according to one of the methods above. Before serving, top with roughly chopped crispy beef fry.

Pesto Pizza Yield: 1 large pie or 2 small pies

2 1 1

1 1 ¼ ¼

small zucchinis cup pesto (recipe follows) batch No-Knead Pizza Dough (recipe above) (14-ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained and halved cup baby spinach ripe avocado, sliced cup chopped fresh parsley cup chopped fresh basil

1. Use a vegetable peeler to shave thin ribbons of zucchini. 2. Roll out pizza dough and spread with pesto. Top with zucchini ribbons, artichoke hearts and spinach. 3. Bake according to one of the methods above. Once cooled, top with sliced avocado and herbs.

Pesto Add 2 cups fresh basil, ½ cup roasted pine nuts, 2 garlic cloves and ½ teaspoon kosher salt to a food processor. Pulse, then add ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil. Continue to pulse until all incorporated. Transfer to a Mason jar and top with a thin layer of olive oil to prevent the top from turning brown. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. FEBRUARY 2021

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PIZZA PARTY

Baharat Meat Pizza Yield: 1 large pie or 2 small pies

1 1 2 1 1 1 ½ 2-3 1

tablespoon olive oil pound ground beef tablespoons baharat spice (recipe follows) teaspoon kosher salt ball No-Knead Pizza Dough (recipe above) cup hummus cup tahini Fresh parsley, for garnish tablespoons pine nuts tablespoon black and white sesame seeds

1. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat. Add oil, ground beef, baharat and salt; break up the meat and cook until browned, about 10 minutes. 2. Roll out pizza dough and bake according to one of the methods above. 3. Let cool slightly, then spread a thin layer of hummus over the crust. Spoon cooked meat over the hummus and drizzle with tahini. Top with parsley, pine nuts and sesame seeds.

Baharat Spice Combine 2 teaspoons paprika, ½ teaspoon cumin, ½ teaspoon coriander, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon cardamom, ½ teaspoon ground cloves, ½ teaspoon nutmeg and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

Italian Insalata Serves: 6

Italian salads are most often simple in their ingredients and dressed simply with olive oil and vinegar. Either plate individually as per directions below or arrange on a large platter and serve family-style. 1 1 1 ¼ ¼ 1 ½

head romaine lettuce pint cherry tomatoes or vine tomatoes cup homemade croutons (recipe follows) cup extra-virgin olive oil cup balsamic vinegar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place a large romaine leaf on each plate. Top with tomatoes and crumbled croutons. Whisk extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper and drizzle over the lettuce. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste, if desired.

Homemade Croutons Preheat oven to 400°F. Combine 2 cups cubed day-old bread and toss with ¼ cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Bake for 20 minutes. Toss and bake for an additional 5-10 minutes, until bread is golden brown. Let cool. Use as is or crumble into coarse crumbs. 64

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PIZZA PARTY

Deconstructed Hamantaschen Hamentaschen can seem somewhat daunting — carefully cutting out circles, daintily spooning on the perfect amount of filling and crimping the edges into a perfect threecornered cookie. Too many steps! Enter deconstructed hamantaschen, which kids love. Layer triangle-shaped cookies in jars with fillings of choice such as raspberry or apricot jam, halva filling or chocolate spread. Add in chopped chocolate, nuts, freeze-dried berries or leftover crushed cookies — the sky’s the limit! These jars were the perfect dessert ending to our pizza dinner.

Supreme Cookie Dough Makes: 3-4 dozen

As far as sugar cookies are concerned, they should all want to be this cookie. “Supreme” accurately describes the versatility of this recipe, which will become your go-to sugar cookie recipe that is also a perfect hamantaschen recipe. The dough can be made well in advance. It keeps for about a week in the fridge and a month in the freezer, just make sure to wrap the dough very well and allow it to warm up just enough to cut when ready to use. 3 cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon baking powder 1½ cups (2½ sticks) non-dairy butter substitute 1 cup sugar 1 egg 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon rum or orange juice 1. Whisk flour, salt and baking powder until combined. Set aside. 2. Add butter and sugar to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Cream on medium-high speed for about 2 minutes. Add egg, egg yolk, vanilla extract and rum or orange juice. With the mixer on low, slowly add the flour mixture and beat until just incorporated. 3. Transfer dough onto a sheet of parchment paper and form two even disks. Wrap each disk in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours. 4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Allow dough to come to room temperature for at least 15 minutes. 5. On a lightly floured sheet of parchment paper, roll each disk to ½-inch thickness. • To make traditional hamantaschen: Use a round glass or cookie cutters to cut circles from the dough. Fill with ½-1 teaspoon of desired filling, then seal corners to form hamantaschen. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes. • To make deconstructed hamantaschen: Transfer the dough on the parchment paper to 2 baking sheets. Using a knife, cut out triangular shapes. Bake for 10-15 minutes, rotating pans halfway through. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely. Follow instructions above for deconstructed hamantaschen. FEBRUARY 2021

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FEBRUARY 2021

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IF YOU’VE EVER browsed the whiskey aisle at your local liquor store, chances are you’ve seen the terms “blended” and “single malt” on the majority of the bottles, as well as the term “single cask.” But what do they all mean?

All whiskey starts as raw grain — in the case of malt whiskey, barley is moistened and allowed to sprout, causing the starches within to convert to sugar. The barley is then ground into a flour and agitated with water in a large vessel to extract those sugars. Yeast is added, fermenting the mixture and turning the sugars into alcohol, after which point it is distilled two or three times. At this point, the resulting liquid is clear and ready to be aged. Nearly all whiskies are aged in wood — usually oak — containers. To qualify for the

label “Scotch,” the whiskey must be aged in Scotland for at least three years, although it is usually aged for much longer. The color, aroma and flavor notes in the resulting product are derived mostly from this aging period, which is why so much thought and attention goes into the casks in which the whiskey is aged. “With so few ingredients, all of the flavor comes from the wood in the barrels and the wine or spirit that was stored in them previously,” explains Danny Saltman, co-owner of the independent whiskey bottler DS Tayman. “That’s why it is

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L'CHAIM

FROM THE GALIL TO THE GLEN

crucial to source the right barrels and know how to match each barrel with whiskey from the right distillery,” adds Saul Taylor, Saltman’s partner and DS Tayman co-owner. (Fun fact: The name DS Tayman is derived from each of their first initials, along with half of each last name.) While single malt whiskey must be made in one distillery (unlike blended varieties, which combine whiskeys from multiple distilleries), using only water and malted barley, many brands will combine a number of barrels for each bottling run, creating a more consistent and uniform flavor. Single cask, on the other hand, means that only a single barrel of whiskey is bottled at a time, resulting in a more distinct flavor in each limited-edition bottle. Just as the different regions in France produce unique varieties of wine, Scotland is broken down into five distinct regions, with whiskey characteristics ranging from smooth and sweet to more smoky and peaty; Speyside (producing some of the most commonly found Scotch, such as Macallan and Glendfiddich), Islay, Campbeltown, the Highlands and the Lowlands. “Everyone’s palate is different,” says Saltman. “Some people prefer a sweeter flavor, while others are looking for something a little more smoky. Instead of just choosing a bottle based on its price or label, try different varieties and eventually you will learn what you like.” ***

expert for nearly 20 years, UK-native Danny Saltman spent years working in various wineries, eventually opening his own Londonbased wine shop and then moving on AS AN INDUSTRY

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to work in country-wide distribution, establishing a reputation as one of the foremost experts on wine in the UK. Though for years, his passion for whiskey simmered on the back burner, as he and his partner started to get involved in the trading of barrels of whiskey, he knew that coming out with his own brand was within reach. With his extensive experience and contacts in the industry, Saltman knew he could create a product that would excel in kosher and non-kosher markets alike, while avoiding the kashrus conundrum that is frequently discussed regarding mainstream sherry cask-aged whiskeys. “Even though most whiskey is considered kosher,” explains Saltman, “the wine barrels are always a questionable issue.” Although it is just the barrel that the whiskey is aged in, and no actual non-kosher wine is added to the whiskey, it is unanimously agreed that the whiskey absorbs the flavor from those barrels and the wine or spirit that was previously aged inside, which raises some halachic questions. “At every kiddush, you have people discussing whether or not you should be drinking those types of whiskey,” he adds. By personally sourcing wine barrels from kosher wineries and having kosher supervision every step of the way, there are no questions whatsoever regarding the status of the final product. Saltman and Taylor source barrels of whiskey from Scottish distilleries, whether “new make” or vintage, and then finish the aging process in their specially-sourced kosher barrels. Saltman travels the globe, handpicking casks based on appearance, smell and flavor from kosher wineries, as well as from other kosher spirits, such as rum and tequila. Because the quality and www.fleishigs.com

flavor will have a significant impact on the final product, the craftsmanship and attention to detail in this process is crucial. The length of time to finish the whiskey (the final stage of aging) can vary greatly as well, so instead of relying on a set formula, Saltman personally

visits each of the casks regularly, using his expertise to taste the whiskey in each barrel and decide when it is ready for bottling. “Depending on the cask itself and the reaction of the whiskey with the wood, different whiskeys need to finish for different amounts of time,” explains Saltman. “If it’s not aged long

enough, it won’t develop enough flavor and if it ages for too long, the flavor of the wood will overpower the whiskey.” After launching in the fall of 2020, DS Tayman has produced two editions so far, the first aged in barrels from the Galil Mountain Winery, which sold out quickly, and the second aged in FEBRUARY 2021

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Hot Toddy Serves: 4

With Purim taking place midFebruary, a warm whiskeybased cocktail is the ultimate way to celebrate. A hot toddy is a classic warm cocktail made with water, whiskey, lemon and honey. In the book How to Drink by Victoria Moore, she describes the properties of the drink as, "the vitamin C for health, the honey to soothe, the alcohol to numb." Here we provide an update with tea, oranges and warm spices like cinnamon and star anise.

3 2 1 1 Âź 3 Âź 1

black tea bags cloves (optional) cinnamon stick star anise pod cup orange juice tablespoons honey cup whiskey orange, sliced, for garnish

1. Bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add tea bags, cloves (if desired), cinnamon stick and star anise pod. Lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes. 2. Add orange juice, honey and whiskey. Remove from heat and let steep for 5 minutes, then discard tea bags and spices. Serve in mugs and garnish with orange slices.

L'CHAIM

Flam Winery barrels. Each included two different varieties from different distilleries — a Linkwood from Speyside, described as having a “soft gentle sweetness, with notes of creamy vanilla and a long spicy finish,” and a Caol Ila from Islay, a smokier variety with a “cappuccino foam, rhubarb and sea salt palate and a long, rich and smoky finish.” Each bottle includes tasting notes on the label, as well as disclosing details on which distillery the whiskey was sourced from, which barrel it was aged in and the date it was bottled. “With a product that takes so long to mature, there is a lot of planning involved,” says Saltman. “We have inventory now that is new make, as well as 8, 15 and even 30-40 years old, some of which won’t be released for another few years. It takes a lot of expertise and careful planning, but good things come to those who wait.” “It’s not easy to create a winefinished whiskey with a hechsher,” adds Taylor, “but it’s something that we were able to do because of our positioning in the industry.” A kosher supervisor must accompany the partners every time they move whiskey into a new cask, as well as sometimes handling the barrels themselves (as the wine stored inside previously was non-mevushal). Just like most businesses across the globe, the current pandemic has complicated things even further, including a neartotal lockdown in the UK in January that prevented the partners from utilizing their newest shipment of empty wine barrels, which could impact future releases as far as four years down the line.

“Ultimately, our goal is to create an excellent product that is meant to be enjoyed with the people you love and appreciate the most,” concludes Saltman. “I’m a social person. Whether it's at a kiddush, a shiur or watching football (or soccer, to you Americans), the most memorable and bonding moments can be created over a shared bottle of fine whiskey.”

OH, DANNY BOY, THE PIPES, THE PIPES ARE CALLING.

Chana Zelda Weiss is a full-time mom of 3, part-time program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL @thosesisterswhocook.

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INTERVIEW

QA &

STEVEN & JONATHAN LITTON OF LITTON SUKKAH

IT HAS BEEN quite inspiring to watch many companies pivot and achieve great ingenuity during the COVID-19 pandemic, which will undoubtedly impact many aspects of life as we know it. The restaurant industry has been one of the hardest hit, having to adapt to everchanging guidelines. As a result, outdoor dining has become the norm, especially in large cities like New York and Los Angeles. We spoke with Steven and Jonathan Litton, the entrepreneurs behind Litton Sukkah, about how they have used their knowledge to create the latest outdoor dining solution for restaurants nationwide.

Tell us a bit about your company, pre-COVID: Litton Sukkah has been building premium, high-quality sukkahs since 1999. We are brothers who began our sukkah business in the Five Towns area of New York, offering premium, custom sukkahs and full service (building and dismantling). Clients the world over have come to know and trust the Litton Sukkah name. We put a large emphasis on quality, but also exceptional full service, which helped set us apart. What is your background? Jonathan studied carpentry with a master carpenter in Switzerland and went to school for construction in Boulder, Colorado. Steven received his degree in business and finance from Hofstra University. We bring both our strengths and backgrounds to the business. Where are Litton sukkahs made? Litton sukkahs are manufactured in the USA using premium, top ofthe-line materials. Fashionable and rugged Sunbrella® canvas, heavy gauge, powdered-coated steel frames, stainless steel hardware and adjustable stainless steel legs are standard features in a Litton sukkah. Our sukkahs have the ability to conform to all types of spaces, including uneven surfaces, expanding and contracting as the need arises. Our sukkahs also stack neatly and take up very little space to store. In the span of two decades, we have erected sukkahs for numerous shuls and Chabad houses in many countries, as well as on piers, mountain houses, Manhattan rooftops and seashore properties. We will go anywhere! How did you take the sukkah business to the next level? When indoor dining in New York City was banned, we received a request from a posh Manhattan restaurant, Barnea Bistro, that desperately needed help. Unable to open, it put the waitstaff, bartenders, chefs and owners in a dire position; because of the cold weather, outdoor dining was not so simple. We immediately got to work and engineered a steel roof, which has a strong load capacity; with that, we had all of the ingredients for a successful “COVID hut.” What is unique about the COVID hut? The design and strength of a Litton sukkah transforms beautifully into a COVID-friendly, outdoor dining structure — perfect for restaurant dining. What really stands out is the addition of the steel roof engineered to withstand rain, wind and snow, making it possible for these dining structures to be comfortable and warm by using overhead electric infrared heaters. We were happy to pivot Litton Sukkahs during this trying time. Jonathan and Steven can be contacted at (516) 610-6610 or via email info@littonsukkah.com, their website littonsukkah.com or Instagram @littonsukkah to chat about their custom creations.

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B Y : S H U S H Y

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T U R I N

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MISHLOACH MANOT

UP SOUPS ARE synonymous with nostalgia and it’s time for some grown-up, elevated versions! Once you have a flavor base, the sky's the limit! I bring them to work and then all I need to do at lunchtime is add hot water and let it steep. Gone are the days of double wrapping your lunch to heat up, nor do you need a dedicated kosher microwave. I like to make a large quantity at once (read: quadruple the recipe!) and freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen, transfer to a freezer-safe bag to store. The great thing about this concept is the versatility. Use any base, noodle, vegetable and protein to make a different combination each time based on your personal preferences. I recommend using a large glass jar or container so that there is enough room for everything to steep.

C H O OS E YO U R F L AVO R BAS E : ramen, curry,

peanut chili (recipes follow) C H O OS E YO U R C O O K E D N O O D L E : soba, ramen,

rice vermicelli

S H I F R A’S N OT E

C H O OS E YO U R F L AVO R B O M B : soy-soaked

shiitake mushrooms, kombu, sliced chilis, sliced ginger, lemon or lime wedges, kimchi C H O OS E YO U R A D D - I N S : corn, sliced scallions, herbs (cilantro, mint, basil), shredded carrots, shredded cabbage, peas, bean sprouts, shredded greens (spinach, arugula, kale), nori C H O OS E YO U R P ROT E I N : chicken breast, soft-

boiled egg, tofu, chickpeas Add 2 tablespoons flavor base to the bottom of a glass jar or container. Layer cooked noodles, flavor bombs, add-ins and proteins of choice. When ready to eat, add 8 ounces boiling water, cover and let steep for 2 minutes. Stir, taste and add more boiling water if desired.

These soups take some advance preparation, but once that’s done, you have the ultimate gourmet on-the-go lunches, impromptu dinners and one of the most creative mishloach manot or edible gift concepts.

Ramen Flavor Base

Curry Flavor Base

Peanut Chili Flavor Base

2 1 1

2 2 1

2 1 ½ 1 ½

tablespoons white miso paste tablespoon soy sauce tablespoon chicken consommé powder cloves garlic, minced teaspoon light brown sugar teaspoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients and store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 month or freeze in ice cube trays.

Soft-Boiled Eggs Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil and prepare a bowl with ice water. Add 1 teaspoon kosher salt and carefully lower eggs into the pot. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 7 minutes. Transfer eggs to the bowl of ice water using a slotted spoon. Peel once cool enough to handle.

Asian-Marinated Tofu Serves: 2

Combine ¼ cup hoisin sauce, 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil and ½ teaspoon chili flakes in a glass

3 2 2 2 1 1 2 1 ½

tablespoons full-fat coconut milk tablespoons white miso paste tablespoons curry powder tablespoons nutritional yeast tablespoon onion soup mix tablespoon lime juice teaspoons light brown sugar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients and store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 month or freeze in ice cube trays.

dish. Cut 1 block firm tofu (from a 15.5-ounce container) into planks, pat dry and marinate for 2-12 hours. Preheat oven to 400°F. Transfer tofu to a parchment-lined baking sheet and cook for 25 minutes, until crispy. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Soy-Soaked Shiitake Mushrooms Slice shiitake mushrooms (or leave whole if they are small) and let marinate in soy sauce with a piece of kombu for 30 minutes.

1 1 1 1 1 ½

tablespoons creamy peanut butter tablespoons sambal oelek tablespoon chicken consommé powder tablespoon white miso paste tablespoon full-fat coconut milk teaspoon instant coffee teaspoon toasted sesame oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients and store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 month or freeze in ice cube trays.

E D I TO R'S N OT E : Kombu is dried sea kelp that is one of the key ingredients in dashi, a richly flavorful Japanese stock. It’s been a part of Asian cuisine for centuries and provides a deep umami flavor. It can be found in Asian markets. Some hold that kombu in its dried form does not require a kosher certification; consult with your rabbi for more information.

Shushy Turin (née Shine) is a full-time nurse practitioner by day, food blogger and recipe developer by night. Shushy is passionate about finding flavor bomb ingredients and using them in as many ways as possible. She also loves learning and incorporating techniques from all over the world into her cooking. She lives in New Jersey with her husband Ben and their three children. Find her on Instagram @cookinginheelss and on her blog cookinginheels.squarespace.com.

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MISHLOACH MANOT

CLAS S IC C U RRY • CURRY FLAVOR BASE • • SOBA NOODLES • • BASIL AND CILANTRO • • SLICED CHILIS • • LIME WEDGES • • BAKED TOFU • • CHICKPEAS •

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MISHLOACH MANOT

SUM MER FRESH • RAMEN FLAVOR BASE • • RAMEN NOODLES • • SHREDDED KALE • • LEMON WEDGES • • COOKED CHICKEN BREAST • • PEAS • DILL • CORN • • SLICED CHILIS •

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MISHLOACH MANOT

CLASSIC RAM EN • RAMEN FLAVOR BASE • • RAMEN NOODLES • • SCALLIONS • BOK CHOY • • SOY-SOAKED SHIITAKES • • KOMBU • NORI • • SOFT-BOILED EGG • • SRIRACHA •

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MISHLOACH MANOT

THAI P EANUT • PEANUT CHILI FLAVOR BASE • • RICE VERMICELLI • • SLICED GINGER • SLICED CHILIS • • CILANTRO • • LIME WEDGES • • COOKED CHICKEN BREAST •

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BUTCHER'S CUT

BY: ROSA SEIDENWAR PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER

This Purim, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re taking a stroll down memory lane and thinking of some creative twists on our favorite childhood dessert, Rice Krispie Treats. Each recipe can easily be transformed into the most epic mishloach manot to gift your friends and family.

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MISHLOACH MANOT

Fruity Cereal Treats Yield: 9 large squares

This is a versatile version of the classic recipe. Use white or pink marshmallows (or a combination of both) and any fruity-type cereal. 1 tablespoon oil 1 8-20 marshmallows 1½ cups marshmallow cream 3 cups fruity cereal (such as Trix or Fruity Pebbles) 1. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish and set aside. Add oil and marshmallows to a large pot over medium-high heat and stir until melted. Add marshmallow cream and cereal and mix until combined. 2. Quickly pour into the reserved dish and press firmly into an even layer. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to set, then cut into squares using a sharp knife. M I S H LOAC H M A N OT: Dip each square into melted white chocolate (Wilton Candy Melts work best for this), then dip into crushed fruity cereal. Place on a sheet of parchment paper until set, then individually wrap in cellophane bags and tie with colorful twine.

Everything But The Kitchen Sink Treats Yield: 12 squares

1 ¼ 2 1½ 3

tablespoon non-dairy butter cup peanut butter cups mini marshmallows cups marshmallow cream cups Rice Krispies cereal

OPTIONAL ADD-INS:

⅓

¼ ⅓ ⅓ ¼

cup chocolate sandwich cookies, chopped cup salted peanuts, chopped cup potato chips, crushed cup chocolate chips cup mini marshmallows

1. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish and set aside. Add butter, peanut butter and mini marshmallows to a large pot over medium-high heat. Stir until melted and incorporated. Add marshmallow cream and cereal and mix until combined. 2. Remove from heat and fold in desired add-ins, then quickly pour mixture into the reserved dish and press firmly into an even layer. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to set, then cut into squares using a sharp knife. M I S H LOAC H M A N OT: Stack 3 squares, wrap in a cellophane bag and tie with twine.

Cookie Butter Chocolate Treats Yield: 15 mini chocolate bars

1¼ 1 ½ 3 1 2

cups cookie butter, divided (such as Lotus) cup light corn syrup cup brown sugar cups Rice Krispies cereal cup chocolate chips teaspoons canola oil

1. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish and set aside. Add 1 cup cookie butter, corn syrup and brown sugar to a large pot over medium-high heat. Stir until melted and incorporated. Add cereal and mix until combined. 2. Quickly pour into the reserved dish and press firmly into an even layer. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to set, then cut into small bars using a sharp knife. 3. Set a cooling rack on top of a baking sheet and set aside. Add chocolate chips and oil to a microwave-safe bowl and microwave in 30 second increments, mixing well in between, until fully melted. Using 2 forks, dip each bar in chocolate until fully covered and set on the reserved cooling rack. 4. Place the remaining ¼ cup cookie butter in a piping bag and place in a cup of hot water for 5 minutes to loosen. Drizzle melted cookie butter over the treats. Refrigerate for 1 hour until set. M I S H LOAC H M A N OT: Once set, insert a popsicle stick into the bottom of each bar and wrap in cellophane.

Rosa Seidenwar trained as a pastry chef at Estella in Tel Aviv. She started blogging on Instagram, creating quick and easy dessert recipes for busy parents who enjoy baking but may not have the time. In addition to blogging, Rosa is a food photographer and food stylist for various brands, with a focus on video content. Rosa lives with her husband and five kids in Southern Israel. Find Rosa on Instagram @rosa_lilyrose or on her website lilyrosebakersblog.com.

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By: Tanya Ohana

OJUELAS ARE AN iconic Sephardic sweet delicacy made from rolled pastry, which is fried and coated in sugar syrup. They go by many names — ojuelas, hojuelas, fijuelas, fizuelas — based on where the recipe originates from. The Spanish word ‘hoja’ and the French word ‘feuille’ mean leaf, referring to the many layers of thin dough that are stretched and twisted into a roll shape while frying. So if you’re originally of Spanish-Moroccan ancestry, chances are you’ll refer to them as ojuelas (like my grandmother did) or hojuelas. If you’re FrenchMoroccan, you would call it fijuelas, which is the equivalent in Haketia (North African JudeoSpanish dialect). Typically, the super-sweet ojuelas are eaten to break fasts, when a quick sugar boost is needed. It is particularly traditional after Ta’anit Esther because the pastry resembles a scroll in shape and in color, reminiscent of the scroll of Megilat Esther that is read on Purim. I have such wonderful memories of my grandmother, of blessed memory, rolling out the

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dough by hand into thin, translucent strips and then twisting them with a fork as she lowered them into the hot oil. My Granny, who was born in Lisbon, Portugal, was well known in my hometown of Gibraltar as a connoisseur of desserts and sweet treats. For those who don’t know, Gibraltar is a melting pot of Spanish, Portuguese and Moroccan traditions. Just like with many of my grandmother’s recipes, the measurements aren’t in your standard cups or teaspoons, but rather in eggshell measurements (I know, old school, right?). If you would have asked her for a recipe she’d gladly give it to you with the phrases she used often like – “al ojo” (by eye), “lo que entre” (whatever fits in) or in this case, “para una masa blanda” (to make a soft dough). I have converted her “al ojo” measurements with some trial-and-error to make your life easier. I’m sure she was smiling down and guiding me along while I figured it out. Purim Sameach!

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TRADITION

Ojuleas Yield: 1 dozen ojuelas FO R T H E SU GA R SY RU P:

1 1

cup water cup sugar

FO R T H E D O U G H :

2 eggs 2 teaspoons water 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour Canola oil, for frying 1. Prepare a cooling rack set on top of a baking sheet and set aside. 2. Make the sugar syrup: Add sugar and water to a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the syrup thickens to a honey-like consistency and easily coats the back of a spoon. Set aside to cool. MAKE THE DOUGH:

3. Combine eggs, water, oil and flour and mix with a wooden spoon. Once mostly combined, mix by hand until a smooth ball of dough forms. 4. To roll out the dough, use the finest setting of a pasta machine or roll out with a rolling pin on a well-floured surface to a 13x18-inch rectangle. Using a sharp knife or pizza wheel, cut 12 (1½-inch) strips of dough across the width of the rectangle. You can also roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface until paper thin. 5. Roll dough into a rose-like coil, (see picture). Alternatively, take a strip of dough with the tip of a fork and lower it into the oil while twisting the fork away from you to create a coil shape. 6. Add a few inches of oil to a wide, shallow sauté pan over medium heat. Once oil is hot, fry for about 10 seconds, depending on the thickness of the dough, until the dough bubbles and turns a pale golden color. Transfer to the prepared cooling rack and repeat with the remaining strips of dough. Let drain on the cooling rack.

al recipe Granny's origin

7. Dip each ojuela, one at a time, into the sugar syrup, tilting the saucepan to make sure each layer is fully coated. Take care when placing them into the pan to make sure the delicate layers don’t break. Transfer back to the cooling rack to set. Serve immediately.

Born and bred in the small town of Gibraltar, Tanya Ohana now resides with her husband in London. Tanya shares her passion and love for cooking and baking on Instagram @garlic.and.ganache. Growing up Sephardi and living in the Mediterranean has influenced Tanya’s cooking style, with thoughtful use of spices and fresh produce being ever-present in her recipes.

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has an impressive culinary background. After studying at the Culinary Institute of America and working the line at some famous NYC restaurants, Jake began working in food media, both in recipe testing and contributing as well as editing. Currently, Jake serves as the Editorial and Test Kitchen Director of The FeedFeed, the largest social mediabased food platform.

BY: E L I S H E VA TA I TZ

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COOKBOOK

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COOKBOOK

JAKE’S NEWEST VENTURE ,

a cookbook entitled Jew-ish: Reinvented Recipes from a Modern Mensch (set to release on March 9, 2021), is a colorful and modern manifesto detailing the evolution of Jewish cuisine in an approachable way. Jewish cuisine was largely influenced by Old World dishes that have since been adapted using the flavors and ingredients of the Diaspora. Jake’s own Ashkenazi background and the Persian-Iraqi background of his partner serve as inspiration for his reinvention of classics, including Short Rib Cholent, Roasted Tomato Brisket, Salt-andPepper Sufganiyot, Iraqi Beet Kubbeh Soup and Persian-Ish Kuku Quiche. Jake also takes classic comfort food from many cultures up a Jewish notch with dishes like Pastrami Biscuits and Gravy, Sabich Bagel Sandwiches, Schmaltzy Chex Mix (recipe follows), Challah Panzanella and Sumac Hot Chocolate. Of course there are Jewish classics like challah, rugelach and babka, complete with a few inventive varieties. The photography is vibrant, the recipes are easy to follow and there is something for every cook level. The book begins with a lengthy introduction, which is a great read on its own, where Jake draws on his own personal background and talks about how he identifies with his Judaism in meaningful ways, both in his life and the food he puts out. He explains the various blessings for the Shabbat table and provides a step-by-step challah braiding tutorial. The book is then broken down into 10

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chapters — My Pantry; Breakfast; Apps + Snacks; Salads; Vegetables; Carbs; Soups + Stews; Mains; Desserts; and Drinks. There are also menu guides for Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur BreakFast, Hanukkah and Passover. Jake proves that Jewish cuisine is not meant to be stuck in the Old World, rather we draw on its rich cultural history to create new memories around familiar classics. So whether you are Jewish, Jew-ish or neither, this book is an asset to any shelf.

Jew-ish: Reinvented Recipes from a Modern Mensch Author: Jake Cohen Published by: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Photography by: Matt Taylor-Gross Food styling by: Barrett Washburne Prop styling by: Marie Sullivan Release Date: March 9, 2021 Price: $30* (*Price on Amazon is as of press time. Prices, especially on Amazon, can vary.)

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COOKBOOK REVIEW

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COOKBOOK REVIEW

Schmaltzy Chex Mix

BAGEL CHIPS

YIELD: SERVES 8 TO 10

YIELD: MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES

PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS COOLING TIME

COOK TIME: 45 MINUTES

COOK TIME: 20 MINUTES

I’m not a huge snacker. I can restrain myself against a bag of potato chips or a bowl of popcorn, but put some Chex mix near me and I lose all control. There is just something about its combo of textures that gives me life. So, I figured I might as well throw some chicken fat on it and call it a day. I toss this snack mix with rendered schmaltz, fresh thyme, dried spices, garlic, and lemon zest before baking it low and slow until it’s crisp and addictively salty/greasy. While this munchie is perfectly good for anytime noshing, it’s one of my favorite things to make the day before I host Shabbat, so I can put out a giant bowl of it when my guests arrive (it’s also always better the day after you make it). It buys me a bit more time to put the finishing touches on dinner, while I enjoy my own private snack bowl. My only disclaimer is about the pretzels. To this day, I pick out all the pretzels from store-bought Chex mix. Why? Because they are inferior to all three kinds of Chex and the mighty bagel chips used in the mix. However, I’ve found that gluten-free pretzels are absolutely incredible in this recipe. I don’t know why, you’re just going to have to trust me on this one!

Growing up, my mother always had a bag full of bagels in our freezer. She was really into the unusual-yet-life-changing combo of onion pumpernickel, but the bagel shop would only make them for her if she special-ordered at least two dozen at a time. As an adult who lives in NYC, my freezer remains bagel-free, given that a fresh one is only a block away. That being said,if I ever do have any leftover bagels, it’s time for bagel chips. Much like pita chips, the bagel variety is just as sublime and oh-so-simple. I always have a bag in my pantry for scooping up any dip and, of course, for tossing into my Schmaltzy Chex Mix (recipe follows). You’re going to be glad you got the baker’s dozen.

¼ ½ ¼

½ 2 1½ 1 1 1 1 3 2 2 2 1

cup schmaltz, melted teaspoons fresh thyme leaves teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon onion powder teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon finely grated lemon zest garlic clove, finely grated cups corn Chex cups rice Chex cups wheat Chex cups Bagel Chips cup small pretzels

bagels, any flavor, sliced into ¼-inch-thick coins cup extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. On a half sheet pan, toss the bagel coins, olive oil, salt, and cayenne to coat. Bake, tossing halfway through, for about 20 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Let cool, then serve immediately or store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

1. Preheat the oven to 275°F. 2. In a small bowl, stir together the melted schmaltz, thyme, salt, onion powder, oregano, lemon zest, and garlic. 3. In a large bowl, toss the corn Chex, rice Chex, wheat Chex, bagel chips, and pretzels to combine, then drizzle with the schmaltz mixture and toss to coat. Transfer to a half sheet pan and spread into an even layer. 4. Bake, tossing halfway through, for about 45 minutes, until fragrant and crisp. Transfer to a bowl and serve warm or store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.

R EC I P E S R E P R I N T E D W I T H P E R M I SS I O N F RO M J E W- I S H : R E I N V E N T E D R EC I P E S F RO M A M O D E R N M E N SC H © 20 2 1 BY JA K E C O H E N .

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WELCOME TO THE UNITED STATES OF CALIFORNIA! No, it is not the year 2041, nor has the Golden State seceded from the country. (Although ever since it was admitted to the union, California has been subjected to more than 220 proposals for secession and division into multiple states.) Because of Californiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s large size, it is blessed with a full shopping cart of attractions for travelers. Had California been its own country, it would still deserve a spot on everyone's top-ten list of countries to visit. With so many points of interests scattered across its 163,696 square miles, there are endless possibilities. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hit the road to a lesser known California with five different towns off the beaten track.

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TRAVEL

Nevada City, California WHEN THINKING ABOUT the “Wild West,” the first thing that comes to mind is an old Western town with good-ole charm. There are a handful of Western towns that have survived and are now being romanticized, visited and photographed by many. Not far from the state's capital of Sacramento sits one such charming town along the western foothills of the Sierra Nevada (which literally translates to "snowy mountains" in Spanish). The first settlers came here during the Gold Rush in the late 1840s and it feels as though not much has changed, especially in the Downtown Historic District. During the Gold Rush, Nevada City was the most important gold mining town in the entire state. Initially, the town was called “Nevada” but later the word “City” was added to its name because people would confuse it with the nearby state. Many of the buildings in town have been preserved and received recognition from the National Register of Historic Places. Additionally, the downtown district has been categorized as a California Historical Landmark, including California's oldest existing theater and one of the oldest hotels west of the Rocky Mountains, both of which are still in use. 98

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B ROA D ST R E E T

You can easily spend a full day exploring the area. Broad Street has an abundance of quaint shops housed inside old buildings, including restaurants, cafés, bars, art galleries and shops with handmade furniture, candles, gifts and jewelry. Not to mention the street smells like chocolate from a boutique chocolate shop! (Of course, in keeping with the old-fashioned theme, they are all called “shoppes.”) Even trying on the many different hats in the hat shop was fun — there was an entire wall of hats to choose from! Make sure to

check out the old firehouse, which now serves as a museum and has an attractive balcony and Greekstyle cornice, and take some time to explore the quiet side roads as well, where you will find old houses transformed into bed and breakfasts. I began touring the main street from the bottom of the hill, not realizing what the view was like behind me. As I approached the top, crossed the street and turned to walk downhill, the town looked even more picturesque with the old, multi-colored buildings against the Sierra Nevada mountains. No wonder it was used as a set location for various film and television productions! EMPIRE MINE STATE HISTORIC PARK

A few miles from Broad Street is Empire Mine State Historic Park. The site was once one of California's biggest gold mines. www.fleishigs.com

TRAVEL

Norco, California APPROXIMATELY 50 MILES from Los Angeles lies a city called Norco. The city has trademarked the motto "Horse Town USA,” rightfully so, as it has one of the largest networks of horse trails in the nation. At one point, there were more horse trails than roads for cars; currently there are more horse trails than pedestrian sidewalks. Also unique are the crosswalk buttons, which are placed at two different heights — one for pedestrians and one for riders on horseback. I am about six feet tall and I had to jump to reach the button for the riders! There are even parking spots for cars next to hitching rails for horses and active rodeos, adding to the town’s Western vibe. The people who established Norco originally wanted to make it the largest resort on the west coast. Instead, it developed into a farming community with a love for horseback riding. As a previous mayor of Norco expressed, “This is the last Mecca, the last Alamo of horse country.”

The tracks used to hoist the gold are still visible inside the main mine shaft. On display is the “Highway to Work,” a head frame close to 100 feet tall, which supports the cable down the 4,600-foot shaft (the only way in and out of the shaft). The journey to the bottom of the shaft takes a little over seven minutes, with the hoists traveling at a speed of 600 feet per minute. Hundreds of mine parts and artifacts are scattered across the yard. There is an actual blacksmith shop with lots of rustic old tools. The docents are very knowledgeable and give visitors a glimpse of how the mine operated. The Compressor Building houses the air pumping equipment that allowed miners to safely work deep inside the mine. The compressed air was also used to operate the drills and the hoists. Also visible in the factory are the tools and furnaces used for pouring the gold bars. Each bar weighed approximately 70 pounds and the mine averaged half an ounce of gold per ton of ore. The gold bars were then taken to the U.S. Mint in San Francisco. Considering the weight of each individual gold bar, the infamous Western Bank robbers must have been in great physique to be able to throw such heavy bars from one coach to another. The grounds in the park are also beautiful and feature many hiking trails, serving as a meeting point between history and beauty.

H O RS E TOW N USA

Upon entering the town, the first thing to catch our attention was a huge store selling hay. It was literally the size of a Walmart or Home Depot! The workers were moving swiftly with pallet jacks, carrying pallets of hay to customer’s trucks. Right next to it was a huge dealership lot selling horse trailers, with various types and sizes of trailers as far as the eye could see. We came across a farrier, an expert in a horse’s hoof care. As we approached him, he was placing the legs of the horse on a special stool next to a stand of various tools. He gave me a horseshoe as a souvenir and told me that if I was planning on hanging it outside, I should place the open side towards the bottom, so that the luck would rain down on me. If, however, I was planning on hanging it inside, it should be placed with the open side towards the top, so that the luck would stay inside the house. After a few hours in Norco, we made our way back to Los Angeles, passing yellow street signs with images of a horse and rider.

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TRAVEL

Rough & Ready, California THE TOWN OF Rough and Ready does not have much left to tour aside from a handful of remnants from the old Sierra Nevada mining town. However, just for its name itself, as well as the fact that it made it onto the list of "unusual names" and is a California Historical Landmark, I made the detour to check out this old town. Rough and Ready was established during the Gold Rush by a Wisconsin mining company. The company was known as the "Rough and Ready Company,” named after the newly-elected 12th United States President, Zachary Taylor, who went by the nickname of "Old Rough and Ready.” The owner of the company served as a captain in the American Forces under the President, fighting the war against the Native American Black Hawk leader and his tribe. Three other towns carried this unique name, but only this one survived. Ascending upon the town I came across a blue sign that read, "The Great Republic of Rough and Ready" (the name it carried in the 1850s when it declared its secession from the Union to avoid mining taxes). Old stagecoaches lay in front of wooden shops alongside wagons, carts, rails and tools from the mine. There is an old post office that is still in use as well as a firehouse and historic toll house. I enjoyed reading the toll price — man and horse: 25 cents. I entered the firehouse where the volunteers were warm and friendly. “Rough and Ready Fire Dept. Co 59” was written on all the doors of the fire trucks. I asked one of the firefighters if he was "rough and ready” to which he replied affirmatively. One of the senior fire volunteers (originally from New York) gave me a tour of the firehouse. He showed me the trucks, including one that was 35 years old, yet it still sparkled and was in great condition. He also showed me an older truck from 1963 that was no longer in service. We discussed wildfires in the region and spoke about New York. After a while, I bid them farewell and I continued on my way. 100

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Slab City, California IN THE SONORAN DESERT , approximately 85 miles from Palm Springs and a mere 40 miles from the Mexican border, sits a small squatter community of free-spirited hippies and “snowbirds” (migraters from all over the United States and Canada who move to the desert to warm up during the winter months). During the winter, close to 4,000 inhabitants live in Slab City on approximately 640 acres, though only about 150 stay through the summer due to the brutality of the heat. The residents use solar panels and generators to generate electricity, along with bed springs, tires and anything they can lay their hands on to create gates to their improvised homes. They live off the grid in what is known as the “only lawless city in America.” The name “Slab City” is derived because of

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the remaining concrete slabs from a dismantled World War II marine base used to train artillery and anti-aircraft units. The first settlers were veterans who had worked at the base, followed later by backpackers, drifters and RV owners in search of a free camping spot not far from Palm Springs. The residents call themselves “slabsters” and “slabbies.” LIFE OFF THE GRID

Throughout the years, Slab City has attracted many different folks including hippies, artists, drug addicts and outcasts. But do not think you can “get away with murder” in the lawless city! The area is regularly patrolled by local sheriffs and Border Patrol agents searching for undocumented immigrants. The most common causes for police intervention in the area are camping boundary disputes, burglary and drug related crimes. Upon entering Slab City, the first thing to catch my eye was what looked to be a bus stop, which was spray painted a light blue color with birds and trees. In big letters it said “Slab City, Welcome.” On the horizon I saw a few RVs spread out and a small booth spray painted with a floral image, a large peace sign and an "I" for information. On the bottom of the booth read the words "The Last

Free Place." In the far distance I spotted an old painted bus rolling down the dirt road. There was a chimney sticking out of the window (apparently there was an oven inside) and a bike tied to the roof. Meanwhile, a girl strolled past me wheeling an icebox and asked me if I wanted to buy eggs or herbs. I observed two people playing baseball with a makeshift ball and bat made from a paper bag and tree branch, respectively. A man invited me to an outdoor music venue called “The Range.” I asked what time and he responded, “There is no time here. Only light and dark.” He also

mentioned that if there was anything I needed, that he was the guy to talk to. (I wasn’t sure if he was being polite or if he was hinting that he is the source for anything illegal.) I went to The Range and enjoyed the music and atmosphere. I noticed that the gates of The Range were made from car bumpers. I stuck around for a while and watched the slabbies jamming on their different music instruments. The sun was almost setting when I realized it was time to head out to avoid driving those desert dirt roads in total darkness.

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TRAVEL

I really enjoyed this journey and I hope you did as well. I hope you will get a chance to visit and experience these towns on your next visit to California or at least add them to your bucket list. Even if you only get the chance to explore each of these towns briefly, remember the Yiddish saying, “a gast far a veil zeht far a mile,” which means, “a guest for a short while, sees a mile.”

Solvang, California IN THE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY , not far from Santa Barbara, lies the city of Solvang. Solvang was founded in 1911 by a group of Danish immigrants who traveled west to escape the brutal Midwestern winters. Originally, the Danes left their native country because of poverty. When they arrived in America, they built their new homes according to traditional Danish architectural styles. Solvang boasts many Danish bakeries, restaurants, shops, four windmills and replicas of Copenhagen’s Rundetårn (Round Tower) and Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid statue. There is even a horse-drawn Danish streetcar to take tourists around. Without a doubt, Solvang looks, feels and even tastes like Denmark. No wonder it has been attracting media attention and visitors since 1947, including several Danish royalties. The descendants of the founders still reside in and have great influence over Solvang.

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Yanky Schwartz’s first trip on an airplane as a 17-year-old student snowballed into a lifelong passion for travel. He travels the world and has amassed over 260 stamps across three passports and over 18,000 followers on his Instagram page, where he blogs about his adventures. Yanky also considers himself to be a tourist in his own city and is always on the lookout for interesting shops, festivals, street art, shows, landmarks and sights within the borders of his own hometown of NYC. He takes part annually in the world's biggest game of Musical Chairs (around 720 people), the Brooklyn Coffee and Tea Festival, the Honey Festival, events hosted by the New York Transit Museum and more. Yanky’s motto is that there is no excuse not to be awake in the "city that never sleeps." You can find Yanky and his adventures on Instagram @picturemacher.

DA N I S H I N F LU E N C E

WILDLIFE REFUGE

Prior to visiting Solvang, I assumed only a block or two would have a Danish theme, but I was shocked to see that it is an entire area. I have visited Denmark three times, so I was able to compare the similarities. The roofs, colors, facades, alleyways and even the way some of the windows were opened looked Danish, as is typical in Nordic countries where air conditioners are not in use, even in the most prestigious hotels.

After almost a full day of exploring Solvang, I visited a nearby wildlife refuge and fed the ostriches. Heading west, I enjoyed watching a breathtaking Californian sunset on the drive back.

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Jam Tart Serves: 8

By: Shifra Klein

I recently participated in a photoshoot for local scarf brand Ana + Ava with Malkie Hirsch (@kissthekoshercook) and our editor, Elisheva Taitz (@thatswhatshemade). Aside from the fashion, Malkie brought a beautiful jam tart that I knew would be a great option for Purim. This recipe is adapted from the dessert blog www.prettysimplesweet.com. It is stunning in its full form as a 9-inch tart and is the easiest Shabbos or Yom Tov dessert. It can also be made into mini tarts, perfect for a dessert buffet or mishloach manot gift. Wrap in a cellophane gift bag for the ultimate edible gift. N OT E : Tart can be covered tightly and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months (thaw overnight in the fridge).

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¾ 1 2 ½ 1 ⅓

cup (2 sticks) non-dairy butter, at room temperature cup sugar teaspoon vanilla extract cups all-purpose flour teaspoon kosher salt cup jam or preserves cup sliced almonds, optional

1. In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar on medium speed for 3-4 minutes until creamy. Add vanilla extract, flour and salt and mix until just combined. Reserve 1 cup of the mixture to use as a streusel topping (freeze until ready to use). 2. Press remaining mixture into the bottom of a 9-inch tart pan (preferably with a removable bottom), pressing up the sides as well. Freeze for 15 minutes until set. 3. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Spread jam over dough and top with reserved streusel. Top with sliced almonds. 4. Place tart on a baking sheet and bake for 35-40 minutes. Let cool completely and serve at room temperature.

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MISHLOACH MANOT

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Domaine du Castel is synonymous with quality and luxury in the kosher wine world. Established in 1988 by the patriarch Eli Ben Zaken in Moshav Ramat Raziâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;el, Domaine du Castel has continued to grow by leaps and bounds since that time.

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

which were planted in 1988, to the legendary recognition given to the inaugural 1992 Castel Grand Vin by Sotheby’s Serena Sutcliffe MW, it is crystal clear that the Ben Zaken family has mastered the art of working the land of Israel and producing some of the finest wines in the world. The winery continued to grow from its inception, adding Petit Castel and C Blanc du Castel to the Grand Vin in the lineup. In 2009, they added yet another wine with the Rosé du Castel, arguably the first premium kosher rosé. The sales and production kept growing steadily and the Ben Zaken family and their employees started feeling tight in the Ramat Razi’el facility. A new location was needed to meet the needs of Eli’s growing brainchild. Thus in 2015, Domaine du Castel built a new, expansive, state-of-theart facility in Yad Hashmona, situated in the Judean foothills, about 20 minutes from Ramat Razi’el. The concept for a new everyday line, La Vie du Castel (white and red), and a dessert wine, the M Muscat, were then added to the winery's lineup. The only important question that remained once the original winery in Ramat Razi’el was abandoned was what to do with the space that was very special to the family. It held so much nostalgia that it seemed almost foolish to rent it to another winery. Perhaps the family could make more Castel wines there? They decided to opt for a challenge and create Razi’el, a new winery! This might seem surprising to many, but the Ben Zakens are no amateurs. Eli has been in this business for a long time, with the help of his son Eitan, who trained in France as a winemaker. Eli’s other

son Ariel oversees the business at both wineries and his daughter Ilana is the director of export and procurement. In 2017, the first red wine was made, mostly from Syrah and Carignan, with a drop of Mourvèdre and Grenache Noir. More vineyards are being planted to produce Rhône-style wines in the future, including Roussanne. We were lucky enough to sample the 2018 red Razi’el from an advance sample. It was really lovely and reminiscent of the style we are expecting from these professionals. Rosé is also on the schedule with 1,500 bottles produced under the Razi’el label in 2019. That's not all they have in the works at Razi’el. Eli hints to three varieties of sparkling wine in production! I couldn't be more excited about this. In 2016, Eli and Ariel led the team to press an early-picked, high-altitude Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Golan Heights to produce the family’s first sparkling wine made by traditional method, otherwise known as Méthode Champenoise. The production is extremely small, with about 2,000 bottles of each wine being produced in 2016, 2018 and 2019. Some were made into a non-vintage sparkling wine and Eli says the wines are very promising. Razi’el is a beautiful playground and the Ben Zaken family may even create some Frenchstyle cordials in the future. It seems like they are managing very well with two wineries, as they are all very close to their home in Ramat Razi’el. Neither winery is neglected and both are held to the high standards that we expect from the Ben Zakens. We are looking forward to the wines coming out of Razi’el. L’chaim!

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FROM THE FIRST VINES ,

DO EL' T S S G R E AT E

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R EC I PE IN D E X CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 20 23 60 60 64 64 70 75 75 75 75 95 95

Creamy Ranch FF M Q Fig Balsamic Jam M Q Basic Vinaigrette M Q Almond Feta M Baharat Spice Q Homemade Croutons FF M Q Hot Toddy Ramen Flavor Base Q Curry Flavor Base Q Peanut Chili Flavor Base Q Soy-Soaked Shiitake Mushrooms M Q Schmaltzy Chex Mix FF Bagel Chips FF M Q

VEGETARIAN & SIDES 42 60 60 63 63 64 75 75

Saffron Rice with Tahdig No-Knead Pizza Dough FF M Market-Fresh Pizza FF Pesto Pizza FF Pesto M Q Italian Insalata M Q Soft-Boiled Eggs M Q Asian-Marinated Tofu FF M Q

MEAT & CHICKEN 20 23 25 40 40 40 42 64 62 62 63

Beer-Battered Sweetbreads Seared Sweetbreads Grilled Sweetbread Skewers Kebab Koobideh Joojeh Kebab Steak Kebab Gondi (Persian Lamb Meatballs) Baharat Meat Pizza FF Beef Cheek Pizza FF Braised Beef Cheeks FF M Beef Fry Pizza FF

SWEET TREATS 30 Mojito Hamentashen 44 Rosewater Cake 54 Sweet Tart Crust FF 54 Saffron Crème Brûlée Tart 65 Deconstructed Hamantaschen FF Q 65 Supreme Cookie Dough FF 88 Ojuleas FF 104 Jam Tart FF M Q

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

LAST BITE

A DIY BROWNIE DECORATING KIT IS THE PERFECT MISHLOACH MANOT. You can do this with any cake, brownie or cookie, store bought or homemade, and it comes together quickly.

W H AT YO U N E E D: • Brownies (homemade or made from a store bought mix) • Cupcake liners • Store bought frosting • Mini disposable piping bags or plastic bags • Sprinkles or mini colorful chips • Disposable 2-ounce plastic containers • Cupcake topper of choice for decoration • Tissue paper • Cake box H OW TO:

1. Bake a box of brownie mix according to package directions. Cut into triangles and place in cupcake liners. 2. Line a cake box with tissue paper. 3. Portion out some frosting in mini piping bags or plastic bags and secure with a tie. Portion out sprinkles in cupcake liners, plastic bags or 2-ounce plastic containers 4. Arrange brownie, bag of frosting, bag of sprinkles and cupcake topper of choice inside the box. 5. Add instructions for assembly: Scoop out a small hole in the center of the brownie, fill with frosting and top with sprinkles and topper. 6. Add a personal Purim message.

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Fleishigs

FEBRUARY 2021