High Frequency Playbook by Stroud Skinstitute Playbooks

TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY

PLAYBOOK 1

STROUD SKINSTITUTE

THE AUTHORITY IN AESTEHTIC EDUCATION

dedication This Playbook is dedicated to a class of amazing students that have inspired me to become my best self and not to grow old and crawl under a rock and wither, but to continue to contribute to the betterment of others. I have enjoyed instructing this group of strong women who have taken a chance to change the course of their lives while meeting and defeating some major hurdles along the way; cancer scares, divorce, unexpected pregnancy, depression, anxiety, and issues I may have not heard about and handled it all with grace while supporting each other. They came to school, finished the program and maintained GPAs over 95%. These bright stars are entering the esthetic profession with success written all over them! Remember, “Don’t Be Picasso”, however paint your futures well. I am no longer your instructor and now proud to call all of you my peers: Anidelka(aka Annie), Eryka, Estefany, Isabella, Janesse, Jessica, Kylie, Miranda, Miruida(aka Minnie), Montserrat(aka Montse), Rebecca, Sasha and Storm.

Ms. Sheryl

STROUD SKINSTITUTE Editor-in-chief Sheryl Stroud

Creative Director Executive Producer Art Director Photo Assistant Senior Designer Junior Designers Researchers Staff Writers Contributing Writer Contributing Photographer Contributing Illustrator

Sheryl Stroud Sheryl Stroud Micheal Evans Angela Mitchell Alma Myers Patti Lawrence Gerard Hernandez Ashley Buchanan Heather Wilkins Philip McDonald, Adobe Stock Adobe Stock

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TABLE OF

CONTENTS 04

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History of High Frequency

The structure of the skin

Identify the Basic Concepts of Electrotherapy

Healthy life

Above: 1918 Shop window display for the Branston Violet Ray.

HISTORY OF HIGH FREQUENCY In the late nineteenth century, a number of experimenters – including Paul Marie Oudin [1851-1923], Jacques-Arsène d’Arsonval [18511940] and Nicolas Tesla [1856-1943] – looked at the medical uses of high-frequency currents. One development from this research was the Vacuum Electrode – commonly known as the ‘Violet Ray’ – first developed by Frederick Finch Strong in 1896. If the general employment of a new device by members of the medical profession may be taken as evidence of its practical value, the Vacuum Electrode may be justly regarded as the most important contribution to Electrotherapeutic Technic since the advent of the High-frequency Current. … The use of hollow glass electrodes exhausted to a so-called “Low Vacuum” for the administration of High-frequency Currents originated through certain clinical experiments conducted by the writer in the laboratory of Dr. J . P. Sutherland, who is at the present time Dean of the Boston University School of Medicine. (Strong, 1908, p. 175)

The first glass electrode constructed by Frederick Finch Strong was made from a modified Geissler tube which had its “upper terminal covered by sealing wax and its opposite end fixed in an insulating handle” (Strong, 1908, p. 176). After this first model, Strong went on to make a range of tubes of different sizes and shapes that could be used with the Strong-Ovington Static Induction and High-Frequency Apparatus he developed with Earle Lewis Ovington. In 1903, the machine and the electrodes were put into commercial production by the Electro-Radiation Company of Boston and, by 1906, a battery-operated model was also on the market. By the 1920s, a wide variety of glass electrodes – made from soda lime or borosilicate glass – had been developed for almost any part of the body, and highfrequency machines using these electrodes could be found in medical and dental clinics as well as some beauty salons. After the First World War, models became widely available for use in the home.

These promised to alleviate a wide variety of aliments and the machines had good sales even during the depression years of the 1930s. By the 1940s, the medical and domestic use of violet ray devices was on the wane. In the United States, government prosecutions of violet ray manufacturers for false and misleading claims were physically removing many from the market. However, although their use in medicine, dentistry and in the home largely ceased, they continued to be used in many beauty salons. After a long absence, new forms of these devices have also reappeared for use in home beauty treatments.

Benefits The primary benefit of these high-frequency treatments was believed to be their effect on circulation, the increased blood flow bringing more nutrients to the skin while helping to eliminate wastes. When vacuum tubes are applied locally there is soon produced redness and hyperemia, with all of the resultant benefits on nutrition. In short, the fundamental value of high frequency currents is their beneficial effect on all nutritive processes. Incidental to this we have increased oxygenation of blood and tissues, increased leucocytosis (and phagocytosis); and increased elimination. (Eberhart, 1911, p. 66)

Above: 1919 Ailments treated by the Renulife Violet Ray.

Right:1929 High-frequency electrode being used to treat a double chin by firming the neck muscles in a Helene Pessl salon in Vienna.

The fact that the sparks produced ozone would also prove to be useful in some treatments. High-frequency machines A typical high-frequency machine used in a beauty salon consist of a central unit which produces a high-frequency, alternating current with a high voltage but low amperage connected to a hand piece into which glass electrodes of various shapes can be inserted. The glass electrodes came in a variety of shapes and configurations. In the past they were filled with mercury vapour, neon or argon gas but most were simply made with air in a partial vacuum, the strength of which would determine the colour of the light generated when the power was turned on.

The vacuum of these electrodes or tubes varies from a very low to a very high degree. The degree of vacuum may be estimated by the color which is emitted. One of low vacuum emits a reddish glow and is the one of choice where relief from pain is the object to be attained. One of medium vacuum emits a bluish tint and one of high vacuum has a whitish appearance. (Grover, 1922, p. 135)

The local high-frequency treatments commonly used in salons were done directly by applying an electrode directly to the skin or indirectly with the current flowing through the operator.

As indicated above, different colours were believed by some to have different healing effects, an idea carried over from prevailing notions regarding the therapeutic effects of differently coloured light. The red or red-pink vacuum besides giving off more heat, is sedative and useful in painful conditions and in acute diseases and inflammation. The medium, blue, or blue-white vacuum gives off some chemical rays, and is more appropriate in chronic conditions. It is often employed where the white vacuum would really be indicated, as this contains not only blue and violet, but also some ultra-violet rays. All chronic ailments, where the vitality is impaired, skin diseases, indolent ulcers, etc., call for the employment of the white or bluewhite tube. (Eberhart, 1911, pp. 52, 55)

Above: 1914 Acne treatment using a bulb electrode..

Salon treatments All the high-frequency treatments carried out in beauty salons came directly from applications developed by the medical profession. Doctors applied high-frequency currents both generally and locally but only local treatments are currently used in beauty salons.

Above: Scalp treatment being done directly (left) or indirectly (right) (Wall, 1946)

Direct Method In this treatment the operator holds the glass electrode and applies it upwards and outwards over the client’s face. When in close contact with the skin, heat is generated at the point of contact with the electrode. However, if a small gap is included, sparking between the glass electrode and the skin ionises the air producing ozone was therefore used in the treatment of pimples but acne but other skin blemishes like psoriasis were treated in the past. On occasion, direct high frequency has also been used to disinfect the skin after hair has been permanently removed by electrolysis or thermolysis. To help generate an even spark the electrode was often applied over gauze. This could be wrapped around the electrode but in most salons it was laid across the client’s face. Indirect Method In this procedure – also known as Viennese Massage – the client holds the saturator electrode while the operator massages the client’s face. The current flow between the client’s skin and the operator’s fingers heats the underlying tissue, an effect that could be increased if the area of contact between the operator and the client was reduced by using fewer fingers. As with all heat treatments, the warmth was said to stimulate blood flow and therefore be good for the skin. The procedure was also regarded as relaxing but this could be counteracted if the use of electricity made the client nervous and tense. Similar effects could be achieved through a diathermy treatment or wrapping the face in a warm towel.

Redundant salon treatments Three other procedures commonly applied in the past are no longer in general salon use today. General electrification This general treatment had its basis in the idea that electricity is a ‘life-giving’ energy source. In the procedure the client was given the saturator electrode to hold and, after the current was turned on, was left to relaxed while her body was supposedly invigorated by being ‘charged with electrical energy’. Fulguration A fulguration electrode with a wire extruded from its end point produced a stream of electric sparks which could be directed to remove moles, warts and other skin blemishes. The medical profession also used fulguration to remove more serious problems such as skin cancers. The orifice of the glass tube is placed on the growth and the current is turned on very gradually, thus causing local anathesia and making the operation practically painless. The sparks must have a whitish appearance; if they become yellow and flame like, the result will be a burn, like with ordinary cautery and there will be an odor of burning flesh. That is not true fulguration. A wart will first turn pink and then blanch. The time required varies with the size and may require more than one application especially if more than one blood vessel supplies nourishment, for all must be plugged or coagulated. When moles are treated, a serum may exude after the first treatment and eventually the whole top may slough off. (Blood, 1932, p. 321)

Above: 1936 Indirect high-frequency treatment, also known as Viennese massage..

An alternative method was to have the client hold the saturator electrode while the operator generated a spark indirectly using an all-metal electrode.

Above: 1914 Beauty treatment for the hair using the direct method and a rake electrode. Treatments were conducted for such things as dandruff, psoriasis and alopecia.

Fulguration was said to be as painless but this seems unlikely. Given the risk of pigmentation changes and scarring some beauty experts advised against it. Even in the hands of an otherwise competent dermatologist, the use of the fulgeration point has often caused a hideous and hopeless pitting and scarring of the skin. It is, therefore, best left to those who have the mechanical skill as well as the correct knowledge of this operation. (The science of beautistry, 1932, p. 209) Understandably, most therapists today would consider the procedure far too risky to be conducted in a salon. Cataphoresis In the past, high-frequency machines were also used in conjunction with drugs like cocaine or chemicals like iodine. On occasion the impression was given that the current helped push these substances into the skin. As high frequency is an alternating not a direct current, this was NOT POSSIBLE but the idea persisted despite numerous numerous statements to the contrary. There is a so-called cataphoric glass electrode made and recommended by some for the ionization of drugs, but it is practically useless since a high-frequency current is an alternating one and has but little, if any, ionizing power. In order to drive medicaments into the skin a direct current is necessary such as galvanic and iontophoresis.. (Grover, 1922, p. 136)

Ozone The spark from a high-frequency machine generates ozone and it was not long before glass electrodes were developed that could be used to inhale ozone directly into the nasal passages and lungs. Ozone inhalers were used medically to treat a variety of illnesses from colds through to asthma but the practice has fortunately been discontinued. In Beauty Culture, high-frequency sparks were added to vapourising machines (steamers) to bathed the client’s face in a spray of steam and ozone. These can still be found in some salons today but many health authorities have banned their use. Although the amount of ozone produced by an ozone steamer is low, given that ozone is both an irritant and a poison it is probably best to avoid such treatments.

Above: 1906 The Junior Portable High Frequency Coil in a case of finished mahogany designed by Frederick Finch Strong . It was manufactured by the Electro-Radiation Company for medical use.

Above: c.1930 Inhaling ozone from a high-frequency machine..

Above: Earle Lewis Ovington [1879-1936] (left) and Frederick Finch Strong [1872-1955] (right).

Above:1920 Violetta Violet Ray. Problems supposedly ‘cured’ by this machine include Asthma, Barber’s Itch, Boils, Blackheads, Catarrh, Chilblains, Colds, Constipation, Dandruff, Deafness, Earache, Eczema, Eye Disease, Falling Hair, Hay Fever, Headache, Goitre, Insomnia, Lumbago, Nervousness, Neuralgia, Neuritis, Pains, Paralysis, Pimples, Rheumatism, Skin Diseases, Sore Throat, Sprains, Tonsillitis, and Whooping Cough.

BASIC CONCEPTS OF ELECTROTHERAPY Electrotherapy is the use of electrical devices for therapeutic benefits. Electrical devices enhance facial treatments by making it easier to give a skin analysis, by helping to achieve better product penetration, or by exfoliating the skin. These tools are especially effective for more challenging skin conditions such as aging or sun-damaged skin. General Contraindications for Electrotherapy There are several contraindications for electrotherapy. To prevent physical harm, some electrotherapy machines should never be used on: Clients with heart conditions, pacemakers, metal implants, or braces Clients who are pregnant Clients with epilepsy or seizure disorders Clients who are afraid of electric current Clients with open or broken skin

If you ever have any doubts about whether a client can have electrotherapy safely, request that the client get a note from their physician approving electrotherapy treatment. Ensure the client removes jewelry and piercings before using electrical devices such as the galvanic machine. Use all machines as directed by the manufacturer because similar machines may have different mechanisms and work differently. Most machines discussed in this chapter are used for approximately 5 to 10 minutes while being integrated into the facial treatment. How to Safely and Effectively Use the HighFrequency Machine The high-frequency machine (HY-FREE-kwensee muh-SHEEN) is an apparatus that utilizes an alternating or sinusoidal current (sy-nuhSOYD-ul KUR-unt) —which is a smooth, repetitive alternating current—and produces

Electrotherapy a heat effect. The highfrequency oscillating current passes through a device that allows for the selection of a Tesla pulse current. This current can produce a frequency of 60,000 to 200,000 hertz, depending on how it is regulated. The frequency indicates the repetition of the current per second. Because highfrequency current is capable of changing polarity thousands of times per second, it basically has no polarity and in effect does not produce chemical changes. This makes product penetration physically impossible. Product penetration is achieved instead by using the galvanic current.

THERMOLYSIS = HEAT EFFECT

the use of electrical devices to treat the skin and provide therapeutic benefits

THE STRUCTURE OF THE SKIN It is estimated that our skin is made up of around 70 trillion skin cells making it the largest organ of the body. It gives us our shape by supporting all of our internal organs, bones and blood and provides a waterproof covering. The thickness of the skin can vary, the thinnest skin is around the eyes and eyelids, and is approximately 0.5mm, the thickest skin is found on the soles of the feet and can be up to 4mm in thickness. The epidermis is a vascular, nourished by diffusion from the dermis below it. Skin Structure - Epidermis The epidermis is made up of six layers, each plays a different part, and these layers are called:

The renewal of skin cells, or Keratinisation, on average takes 28 days, however, after the age of 36, your age represents the number of days the process of keratinisation takes.

Stratum Germinativum – This is the deepest layer of the epidermis, also known as the Stratum Basale. It is within this layer that a process called mitosis takes place. Mitosis means cell division and that’s exactly what happens, the cells divide making more new fresh, plump cells, it is here when the cell are first created that they are at their most receptive. As this process of mitosis happens, the older cells start to move upwards through the layers towards the surface. In this layer, blood vessels connect to the dermis and this is where, through deep product penetration to the epidermis, we are able to communicate with the dermis via this layer. The Stratum Germinativum also contains melanocytes; these are melanin producing cells which provide the body its natural protection against harmful UV rays. Stratum Spinosum– This is where the first stage of keratinisation takes place. Cells are pushed up from the Stratum Germinativum and begin to flatten slightly then start to synthesis keratin. This layer is also known as the prickle cell layer. Lipids are present in this layer; these lipids create a hydrolipidic barrier between the Stratum Granulosum and the Stratum Lucidum, which prevents dehydration. Stratum Granulosum – Also called the granular layer, it is in this layer that keratinisation continues, the nucleus within the cells become void and starts to fill with keratin. The cells flatten further and continue to move up into the next layer. Stratum Lucidium – This is a clear layer and has 2-3 layers of irregular clear flat cells. The Stratum Lucidium only tends to be found in thicker skin, therefore is commonly found on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands. Stratum Corneum - This layer is made up of between 15-20 layers of completely flattened cells, these cells are full of the protein keratin. This is the last part of the life cycle of the cell, which will eventually be shed from the skins surface. The keratin within these flattened cells, help to absorb water helping to keep the skin hydrated and preventing water from evaporating.

THE STRUCTURE OF THE SKIN Function - Epidermis The whole process of a single cell moving up through the layers of the skin, takes approximately 28 days. The epidermis is connected to the dermis by an undulating surface, due to this undulating surface; it gives a larger surface area, where all biological changes and nutritional exchange can take place. As we age, the epidermis and dermis start to separate, therefore causing all chemical reactions and processes to slow down quite dramatically, a classic example of this would be skin healing. When we are young, if we cut or graze the skin, it heals very quickly without too much trouble, however as we age, the process of healing can take much longer, meaning the skin is susceptible to infection. Therefore as we age, it is even more important to ensure we are taking care of our skin and treating it correctly. The epidermis has a chemical protection called the acid mantle on its surface. The acid mantle is made up of sweat and sebum and these acts as a fungal and bacterial deterrent. The acidity of the skin helps to neutralise the chemical effects of contaminants, this is why skincare products are slightly acidic so as not to disrupt the skins balance. Free radicals constantly attack our skin and can weaken this natural barrier; this is why it is so important to protect our skins from the sun. Skin Structure - The Dermis Within the dermis there are two layers, the lower layer is called the reticular layer, it is this layer that gives the skin its overall strength and elasticity, it has coarser elastin fibres and denser collagen bundles. Above the reticular layer is called the papillary layer. This layer contains smaller looser collagen and elastin fibres. This layer has a rich blood supply and nerve supply which provides the basal layer (or Stratum Germinativum) of the epidermis with sensation and nutrients.

Function - The Dermis Within the dermis are a number of specialised cells, all with important functions to carry out. Eccrine glands are the primary sweat glands of the human body; they produce a clear, odourless substance consisting mainly of water. Hair follicles are also found in this layer, attached to the hair follicles are little muscles called erector pili, these muscles lift the hair when the body gets cold to trap warm air and retain heat, and as you would expect, the muscles relax to flatten the hair to cool the body. Nerves are also located in the dermis and enable the body to respond to pain, temperature, touch and pressure. The proteins collagen and elastin are found in both layers of the dermis, but both have different effects on the body. Collagen – Maintains the tone and structure of the skin because the molecules are rigid and resistant to stretching. It is made up of three polypeptide chains wrapped around one another as a triple helix. Collagen is formed in fibroblasts within the dermis, this can breakdown within the skin. The main cause of this is due to the enzyme Collagenase. This breaks down old collagen at a precise rate, however, this rate speeds up with sun damage, exposure to free radicals, age and UVA exposure (which is an inhibitor). Elastin – Gives our skin resilience, keeping it toned, tight and springy. Like collagen it is produced by fibroblasts and forms a network of elastic tissue. The breakdown of elastin is what causes the skin to sag. Again, like collagen, elastin can also breakdown, the enzyme elastase is responsible for this breakdown under normal conditions, however with free radical attack, advanced ageing and sun exposure, this breaking down process will speed up resulting in an increased loss of elasticity within the skin.

High Frequency High frequency (also known as the Tesla high frequency current) was first developed in the late 1800’s by renowned scientist Nikola Tesla. While it offers a number of functions, before the invention of ‘modern’ antibiotics it was largely used for medical purposes such as in the treatment of strep throat and other infections. In the 1970’s, European salons discovered the cosmetic and healing benefits of high frequency electrical stimulation on the skin and by 1980, the the technology became widely used by skin care professionals.

Benefits

Boosts blood circulation Reduces enlarged pores Increases oxygen in the skin Encourages lymphatic drainage Improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles Improves puffy or dark eyes Promotes collagen stimulation and elastin production

Recommended treatment areas: Face, neck and décolletage Eye area Cheeks Scalp Back Benefits

How does High Frequency work on the skin? 01

High Frequency operates on a Rapid Oscillating Alternating Current. A current will travel up and down in waves. This movement (Up and down) is called an OSCILLATING movement.

High Frequency operates at around 250,000Hz. This means that the current is OSCILLATING up and down 250,000 times per second. Therefore each OSCILLATION is very tiny effectively making High Frequency a very superficial treatment only penetrating no deeper than the epidermis.

The current also ALTERNATES between positive (At the peak of the OSCILLATION), and negative (At the bottom of the OSCILLATION).

During the high frequency treatment, enriched oxygen molecules are produced that create an antibacterial action and a “natural” thermal tissue warming. This reaction helps blood vessels push away toxins, while the skin cells are enriched with nutrients. This in turn creates an increase in blood circulation and cell renewal that supports increased levels of collagen and elastin. The skin is left feeling instantly energized and noticeably softer after just one treatment.

High frequency has proven to be effective on almost any skin lesion from acne and burns, to waxing procedures and cold sores. High frequency facials are considered to be a safe, gentle and therapeutic approach to skin rejuvenation, quickly healing and restoring skin’s health.

Information All high frequency machines function by using a perspex electrode to treat various contours of the face and body. When applied to the surface of the skin, a mild electrical current passes through a neon, or argon gas filled electrode, causing it to emit a subtle glow neon red/orange or violet/blue and buzzing noise. Traditionally, acne prone skin is treated with violet and aging skin is treated with red, however, recent studies show that both are effective regardless of the skincare concern.

– @reallygreatsite Rapid Oscillating AlternatingCurrent

Types of Gases Used in Electrodes Argon or rarified gas will glow anything from Pale Baby Blue, to Dark Purple, and everything in between. It will vary in colour naturally.

It is safe to breathe in, and will not react with other chemicals. The Argon gas acts as a medium through which we pass electricity. The Argon carries the current through the electrode, and causes a chemical reaction in the air surrounding the electrode. How OZONE is produced. The air around the electrode is oxygen - O2. When we pass an electrical current of this nature through the air, the O2 gains an extra electron, and becomes O3. O3 is also known as OZONE. Ozone gives this treatment a metallic odor and is drying, antibacterial and germicidal. Typically used for normal to oily skin and acne prone skin. Sometimes these lights are inaccurately called infrared or ultraviolet because of their colors; however, there are no infrared or ultraviolet rays in high frequency.

The air around the electrode is oxygen - O2. When we pass an electrical current of this nature through the air, the O2 gains an extra electron...

... and becomes O3. O3 is also known as OZONE. Ozone gives this treatment a metallic odor and is drying, antibacterial and germicidal.

The argon gas-filled electrode comes in contact with your skin, it transfers a minimal amount of ultraviolet light to heal and improve your skin condition significantly. And as the amount of UV light is super low, it doesn’t harm or damage your precious skin in any shape or form. The anti-bacterial ultraviolet light from the argon electrode penetrates deep into the skin layer and kills acne and breakout-causing bacteria from the inside. This action clears your face and helps to reduce the unsightly acne drastically for flawless skin. The argon high frequency also helps to minimize the appearance of pores to present you with smoother skin. Just like fighting acne-causing bacteria, this electrode eliminates the bacterial and fungal buildup on your head skin so that you not only have a healthier scalp but also experience an improved hair regrowth cycle.

Types of Gases Used in Electrodes Neon gas produces a pink, orange, or red light and is typically used for sensitive skin and aging skin.

The red gas transfers more warmth to the affected area and treats it from the dermis layer for more precise results. It promotes blood circulation, stimulates cellular turnover rate as well as helps the skincare product to penetrate better to improve your skin texture and tone drastically. As it encourages cell regeneration and boosts collagen production, this special gas helps to remove fine lines and wrinkles from your face quicker than ever for youthful skin. Due to increased collagen production and enhanced blood circulation, this gas electrode also eliminates dark spots and scars actively so that your face is as spotless and fresh as ever.

Large Mushroom

Small Mushroom

Roller

Electrodes Several types of direct or indirect electrodes are available with high frequency. Each of these electrodes has unique benefits and features that produce specific physiological reactions in esthetic treatments. If you use the high-frequency machine, you will need to be trained in the procedure and on how to use the different electrodes. During the manufacturing process, most of the air is removed from high-frequency electrodes, creating a vacuum in the tube. The air is replaced, mainly with neon gas. However, some electrodes may also contain argon gas. As electricity passes through these gases, they emit visible shades of light. Neon gas produces a pink, orange, or red light and is typically used for sensitive skin and aging skin. Argon or rarified gas produces blue or violet light and is typically used for normal to oily skin and acne prone skin. Sometimes these lights are inaccurately called infrared or ultraviolet because of their colors; however, there are no infrared or ultraviolet rays in high frequency. In addition to different forms of gas, the electrodes come in different shapes and sizes to accommodate the treatment area.

Types of Direct Application Electrodes The range of glass electrodes for use with high-frequency medical machines numbered twenty or more, but only a few of these were found in models produced for use in beauty salons. These included:

Small and Large Mushroom Electrode

Gauze produces a small spray of sparks onto the skin. This treatment is ideal for acne or problematic skin.

Direct application can also be put directly on bare skin for 5-10 seconds per lesion without moving the electrode. This treatment is ideal for a single or small clusters or acne lesions

Small Mushroom This electrode is used for Direct High Frequency facial treatments and is ideal for working on difficult areas, such as around the nose and ears. 1. Place the electrode into the handheld device. Twist it gently into place. 2. Adjust the rheostat to the proper setting if the machine is not automatic. 3. Place an index finger on the glass electrode to ground it until it touches the client’s skin, then remove. 4. Glide the electrode over the gauze in circular movements (across the forehead area) and then to the nose, cheeks, and chin areas. 5. To remove from the skin, place an index finger on the electrode to ground it and then remove it. Turn the power switch off and disengage the electrode. Remove the gauze. The large mushroom is used for Direct High Frequency facial and body work, particularly useful for larger areas, i.e. the back. 1. Another effective way to use this apparatus is to open a piece of cotton gauze and glide the mushroom electrode over the gauze which is placed on the client’s face. This produces a small spray of sparks onto the skin. This treatment is ideal for acne or problematic skin. 2. Facial finish: High frequency may be used at the end of a treatment over cream. Place cotton gauze between the cream on the client’s skin and the electrode. Glide in circular motions over the entire area. Remove the gauze.

Types of Direct Application Electrodes There are many types of electrodes that can be used in a high-frequency machine treatment. Here’s a breakdown of various types and their applications.

Comb Electrode It is mainly used in a scalp and beard treatment.

Rake Electrode

Used to treat alopecia and other hair problems.

To apply the comb electrode, follow the directions for the mushroom electrode. 1. Place the electrode into the handheld device. Twist it gently into place. 2. Adjust the rheostat to the proper setting if the machine is not automatic. 3. Place an index finger on the glass electrode to ground it until it touches the client’s hair, then remove. 4. Glide the electrode through untangled hair. 5. To remove from the hair, place an index finger on the electrode to ground it and then remove it. Turn the power switch off and disengage the electrode.

Types of Direct Application Electrodes There are many types of electrodes that can be used in a high-frequency machine treatment. Here’s a breakdown of various types and their applications.

Roller Electrode

This electrode is very versatile and can be used for both face and body work. As it rolls freely over the treatment area, no gauze or sliding agent is necessary (but is still optional). As this electrode will not spark when lifted from the skin, it is ideal for use on nervous clients.

Neck Electrode This Direct High Frequency electrode is specifically contoured for working on the neck area, but also can be used on any curved area, i.e. arms, shoulders.

1. Place the electrode into the handheld device. Twist it gently into place. 2. Adjust the rheostat to the proper setting if the machine is not automatic. 3. Glide the electrode over treatment areas. To remove from the skin, place just lift off skin, this electrode will not spark when lifted from the skin. 4. Turn the power switch off and disengage the electrode.

1. Place the electrode into the handheld device. Twist it gently into place. 2. Adjust the rheostat to the proper setting if the machine is not automatic. 3. Place an index finger on the glass electrode to ground it until it touches the client’s skin, then remove. 4. Glide the electrode over curved areas. 5. To remove from the skin, place an index finger on the electrode to ground it and then remove it. Turn the power switch off and disengage the electrode.

Types of Direct Application Electrodes There are many types of electrodes that can be used in a high-frequency machine treatment. Here’s a breakdown of various types and their applications.

Sparking (glass tip) To apply the comb electrode, follow the directions for the mushroom electrode. It is mainly used in a scalp and beard treatment.

1. A glass tip electrode is used to direct sparking to a specific area such as an acne lesion. It helps disinfect and heal the lesion. Sparking is visible and creates an interesting zapping noise. 2. Place the electrode into the handheld device. 3. Place the glass electrode over the lesion area, removing your finger so that the electrode is not grounded prior to placing on the face so that the area is sparked for a few seconds. Touch the electrode to the blemish for a few seconds and remove. Repeat this a few times. 4. Remove the electrode from the skin by placing the finger once more on the glass. Turn the power switch off and disengage the electrode.

Application of Direct High Frequency 01

Direct High Frequency is used on the face and body to give a Drying, Antibacterial, Germicidal treatment. It is ideal for an oily skin.

It is suggested to adjust the timing to suit the skin type you are working on:

HOWEVER, for the first 2 to 3 minutes it actually stimulates the sebaceous glands.

Normal/Combination Skin: 5 mins.

Gauze makes the Ozone work harder by creating a minute gap between the electrode and the skin. It also provides a uniform layer over which the electrode can be passed freely.

Dry Skin: 2-3 minutes

Oily Skin: 7 minutes

Because the Ozone is given out at such a low intensity it only becomes drying after this time. Therefore, Direct High Frequency can be used to treat ALL skins.

Effects of High Frequency Treatments Operate at low to medium Intensity. There are several electrodes available for use with Direct High Frequency:

Warms and softens tissues Increases metabolism Improves skin texture Gives a germicidal effect Limits sebaceous secretions Dries and heals pustular infections

Watch Video on How to Perform Direct High Frequency

Sparking (glass tip) Sparking is possible with Direct High Frequency. This creates a larger gap between the skin and the electrode, creating a “lightening bolt” of Ultra Violet light, which is antibacterial, and effectively kills germs in a specific area. Only use the Small Bulb Electrode. Position it on it’s side, directly over the area to be sparked. Lift the electrode off the skin, following these guidelines: Remove any gauze Position electrode no more than half a centimeter off the skin Apply no more than 3 sparks on one area at low intensity. If sparking is needed over a large area, it is possible to use double or triple thickness of gauze, and to work over the area in this way, – @reallygreatsite creating lots of sparks as you work.

Procedure: Use the HighFrequency Machine Implements and Materials ☐ Gloves ☐ Hand sanitizer ☐ 2” × 2” Esthetic wipes or cotton rounds ☐ Cleanser ☐ Toner ☐ Moisturizer ☐ Sun protection ☐ Disinfectant solution and paper towels for clean-up

Adhere to the following guidelines.

01 Apply and massage a cleanser suitable to remove makeup into the skin with your gloved hands.

02 Remove the cleanser using 4” × 4” esthetic wipes or chosen material.

03 Using 2” × 2” esthetic wipes or cotton rounds moistened with toner, remove any residue.

04 Apply the precut gauze face mask over the face, unless the electrode application does not require the gauze.

05 Continue with the appropriate electrode selection and proceed with the indicated steps listed for the specific electrode.

06 Apply moisturizer and sun protection.

Standard treatment table setup with linens ☐ High-frequency machine and attachments ☐ Precut gauze face mask or gauze pads ☐ Massage cream, if performing as part of a massage, with the saturator (spiral) electrode ☐ Moistened 4” × 4” esthetics wipes

☐ To avoid being burned, the client should avoid contact with metal during electrical machine treatments. ☐ Clients should remove all jewelry and piercings prior to the treatment. ☐ The technician should ground their finger on the electrode prior to applying it to the client and prior to removing it from the client. ☐ The electrode should be continuously moving at all times. ☐ Electrodes should be gently removed from the hand piece to avoid snapping the electrode.

– @reallygreatsite

Direct High Frequency treatment protocol Treatment Duration: 20 minutes

1. Remove jewelry from both client and yourself. 2. Cleanse face and neck thoroughly, tone and blot dry. 3. To intensify the treatment apply a clean sterilized dry gauze over the area (this is not necessary for sparking treatments). 4. Insert the appropriate electrode firmly into the black handle. Care should be taken when handling glass electrodes. 5. Place electrode onto area to be treated, gently turn up current, by turning intensity dial clockwise until correct level is attained. 6. Work over the area, ensuring that the electrode is constantly moving. Average treatment 2-3 minutes all skin types (warming increasing circulation) 5-7 minutes treatment for greasy, seborrhoeic, acne skin (drying and refining) Ensure that no one area is worked on for longer than 2 - 3 minutes, or tissue sensitivity may result.

7. When treatment has been completed, with electrode still in contact with the skin turndown intensity and switch off. Remove electrode from the skin. 8. Remove gauze, tone and blot dry.

– @reallygreatsite

Types of In-Direct Application Electrodes There are many types of electrodes that can be used in a high-frequency machine treatment. Here’s a breakdown of various types and their applications.

Indirect (spiral) Saturator Indirect electrodes are used indirectly to stimulate the skin during Viennese massage. This treatment is ideal for sallow and aging skin. This electrode is used for Indirect High Frequency. The metal spiral inside the glass ensures that only a gentle current is required to give maximum effect. 1. Give the wire glass electrode to the client, who then holds it with both hands. 2. Place the fingers of one hand on the forehead. 3. With the opposite hand, turn the high frequency on and move to a low setting. 4. Using both hands, perform a piano finger motion, gently tapping the skin. Move around in a systematic manner over the entire face. 5. To discontinue, remove one hand from the skin, turn the power switch off, and disengage the electrode. 6. In order to keep the current flowing do not lose contact with the skin during this procedure.

Application of In-Direct High Frequency 01

Indirect High Frequency can be used on all skin types, though it is particularly suited to Dry, Dehydrated, Mature and Sensitive skins.

A soothing warmth will be felt where the current is concentrated. This is where the client and therapist are in contact with each other. This warmth will stimulate sebaceous glands, circulation, aid lymphatic drainage, and stimulate skin cells. It is soothing, and relaxing, and the massage should reflect this.

EFFECTS OF INDIRECT HIGH FREQUENCY TREATMENTS Warms and softens tissues Increases metabolism Improves skin moisture balance Stimulates tissues Increases blood circulation Increases lymphatic circulation

It can also be used where there is muscular tension, as an aid to warming the therapist’s hands, and to aid relaxation. It is suitable for both face and body use. Indirect High Frequency requires the use of the Saturator Electrode. This is held by the client in their hands. The therapist then applies a massage medium to the area being treated, and turns up the intensity while keeping contact with the client.

Treatment takes place BEFORE masking. Timing: 10 – 20 minutes Intensity: No higher than 1 o’clock on the dial. Always keep at least one finger in contact with the client, to ensure the electrical circuit is not broken. It is important that both therapist and client remove EVERYTHING metal, and that neither party touches anything metal during the treatment. This includes the metal casing of the machine, metal therapist stools, and metal couch fixings…

– @reallygreatsite

In-Direct High Frequency treatment protocol Treatment Duration: 10-20 minutes before masking

1. Remove jewelry from both client and yourself. 2. Cleanse face and neck thoroughly, tone and blot dry. 4. Lightly talc clients hand (the one to hold the electrode) 5. Place indirect electrode (saturator) in high frequency handle and give to client to hold in relaxed position. Switch on machine (checking intensity is at zero) 6. Place one hand on client face and gradually turn up intensity until correct level is obtained. This will actually be very low because of the nature of the electrode. 7. Now place other hand on face and commence Viennese Massage. Treatment time between 10 – 20 minutes. 8. On completion remove one hand from face, lower intensity knob and turn off unit before removing the other hand. Take electrode from client. 9. Tone and blot dry.

– @reallygreatsite

Viennese Massage Protocol 01

Place electrode in client's hand.

Warn the client that the machine will make a buzzing sound. It also has a unique smell produced by the germicidal action on the machine.

Place at least one hand on the client and turn on the machine.

Turn it up a little at a time until the client notes comfortability. As you turn up the device,client may feel slight warmth. Note the intensity that you have reach and record it in your client treatment record.

Start and complete full massage except for tapotment. The massage shoul last 15 to 20 minutes, unless the skin has a adverse reaction.

When the massage is complete, leave at least one hand on the client until the device is shut off. Turn current down and shut off machine.

After Care

After use, the electrode should be cleaned and sanitized and put away safely. It is essential to clean the machine itself and the holderwith an EPA-registered, hospital grade disinfectant. Do not fully submerge metal parts of the glass electrodes. If grease or talc remains on the machine, it will acts a conductor to the high ferquency ci=urrent, and the therapist may feel an electric shock in hand.

After a Viennese massage, the skin is left feeling instantly energized. It will have a slight rosy appearance cuased by erythema. The skin will appear firm, refreshed and softer after just one treatment. HF is a safe and gentle procedure with no down time. Advise clients to protect their skin with moisturizer and sunscreen four to eight hours after treatment.

Treatment Frequency Target areas should receive a series of 4 to 6 Viennese massage treatments. Treatments should be 1x per week. Once desire results have been achieved, once a month maintenance treatments are

The client may experience a mild redness or erythema and may have light flaking after treatment. They can return to work immediately. This is a great lunchtime power treatment due to its relaxing, anti-aging effectiveness and lack of down time.

– @reallygreatsite

Viennese Massage Video

Watch Video on How to Perform In-Direct High Frequency

When to Use High Frequency

Effects of High Frequency

Contraindications and Best Practices for HighFrequency Machines

The high-frequency machine is a useful and versatile esthetic tool.

The high-frequency machine benefits the skin in the following ways: It has an antiseptic and healing effect on the skin. It stimulates circulation. It helps oxygenate the skin. It increases cell metabolism.

Be sure to know all the contraindications of using a highfrequency machine before implementing it in treatments.

It may be applied after extractions or used over a product but will not penetrate a product as iontophoresis would. The machine also creates ozone, which has a germicidal action on the skin.

It helps coagulate and heal any open lesion after extraction by sparking it with the mushroom electrode. It generates a warm feeling that has a relaxing effect on the skin.

High frequency should not be used on clients with the following conditions or devices: Couperose skin Inflamed areas Pacemakers Metal implants Heart problems High blood pressure Braces Epilepsy Pregnancy Body piercings from the waist up; the client should avoid any contact with metal—such as chair arms, jewelry, and metal bobby pins— during the treatment; a burn may occur if such contact is made.

Safety and Maintenance for High-Frequency Machines Follow these maintenance guidelines for high-frequency machines. After each use, clean the glass electrode by wiping it with a solution of soap and water. Do not use alcohol on electrodes. Do not immerse the electrodes directly in water. Place only the glass end (not the metal) into a disinfectant solution for manufacturer’s recommended time. Wipe the entire electrode with a disinfectantsaturated paper towel.

Rinse the electrodes. Do not get the metal end wet. Dry with a clean towel and store in a nonairtight closed container. Do not place electrodes in an ultraviolet machine or in an autoclave.

The high-frequency coil should be replaced after a few years of use if it is losing power.

Unless they break or are damaged, most electrodes do not need replacing, but keep in mind that the electrodes are very fragile. Take extra care to wrap them in a soft material and then store them in a drawer where they will not be knocked around or damaged. Some of the newer machines offer inserts for storing the electrodes right on the machine. Be sure to cover the electrodes so they remain clean and undamaged.

Check with the manufacturer for additional service requirements.

Clean the handpiece, cords, and machine with disinfectant.

– @reallygreatsite

Contra-indications High/low blood pressure Heart conditions Epilepsy Asthma Eczema

If client suffers from any of the above conditions a letter from GP is advised before commencing treatment.

Diabetes Pregnancy Lack of skin sensation Metal in area (excessive number of fillings)

Swelling in area Bruising Cuts or abrasion Skin infections Hyper sensitive skin Clients with nervous disposition Couperose skin conditions

Contra-actions Some clients may notice the following effects. These are all normal reactions if observed in a mild effect. If any effect is noticed excessively it is vital to cease treatments immediately and refer the client to their doctor.

Mild discomfort Erythema (Redness) Warm, or what appears to be over-sensitised skin

Mild Erythema will disappear a few hours after the treatment though either is rare, and you may want to consider and consult with client as to whether the treatment is right for them.

In this instance, be sure to take photographs, and fill in an incident report in accordance with your insurer’s instruction.

Client after care recommendations Although the side effects of High Frequency treatments are minimal there some essential after care recommendations. For 24 Hours after treatment: Apply as much moisturiser as is needed Avoid touching the area with unwashed hands No heat treatments No swimming/exercise No perfumed products No make-up

For the following 7 days: No exfoliation No Sunbathing or Sun Beds Apply minimum of SPF15 or higher

– @reallygreatsite

How to sell the treatment For best results treatment courses should be taken in twelve sessions, every 5 days. For the purposes of pricing, you wouldn’t treat for any longer than 30 minutes in a session, and then add time, depending on which treatments/products you team it with. Be commercially attractive to all budgets, We recommend you also offer shorter courses. Try an introductory offer to get clients in for that first treatment, then you will have the opportunity to upsell. Offer courses of 6 and 12. Offer 4 for the price of 3 as a one off “try me” promotion. Create a Deluxe Treatment An extended procedure gives you the opportunity to include massage, masks, and ampoules. Create bespoke facials Include electrical treatments, masks, ampoules, serums. Also tier the facial, Platinum, Gold and Silver - price accordingly. Combine with other treatments for the ultimate electrical anti-aging treatment

– @reallygreatsite

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