Istana 4

Existential Aspirations Sculptor Lim Yew Kuan and fellow Singapore Arts Society member completing a bust and oil portrait of President Yusof Ishak at the Istana on 28 Feb 1966.

While the Istana is a place for formal state events and is largely associated with prestige and protocol, it is also very much a showcase of Singapore.

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he dignified architectural splendour of its buildings, the beauty of carefully-selected artworks which adorn its walls and the myriad of improvements to the Istana gardens, reflect Singapore’s ardour for heritage, art and nature.

The West Drawing Room in the Istana Main Building.

DEDICATION TO HERITAGE The 146-year-old Istana is one of the oldest and most important buildings in Singapore and it has a rich past to share with the present generation.

The Istana building and Sri Temasek, a two-storey bungalow on the grounds of the Istana, were collectively gazetted as National Monuments for their historic, architectural and symbolic significance.

The architecture of the buildings reflects Singapore’s rich history.

The Istana, as designed by Colonial Engineer Major John Frederick Adolphus McNair, combined European architecture with the indigenous tropical Malay architecture that was better suited for a warmer climate.

The verandahs, panelled doors and louvered windows were designed to allow for air ventilation.

Inside the Istana building are stately halls that now function as venues for state ceremonies and receptions. Local officials and visiting delegation members are introduced to the respective Heads-of-State in the Reception Room, foreign guests are hosted to State Banquets in the Banquet Room, and official ceremonies, such as the swearing-in of ministers and award investitures, are held in the State Room. Numerous state gifts, as well as artwork by local and foreign artists, are displayed in these halls.

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Sri Temasek is a two-storey bungalow that was once the Colonial Secretary’s residence. After Singapore became independent in 1965, it was designated as the official residence of the Prime Minister.

Sri Temasek, like the Istana building, features a blend of Malay and European elements. Stand-out features include the delicate, decorative fretwork on the building’s timber arcade, as well as on the main stairway leading to the second storey. Like the Main Building, Sri Temasek also has spacious verandahs on the first floor.

President Ong Teng Cheong, who was trained as an architect, improved the interior of the Istana building, highlighting its aesthetics as a historic building. Old artefacts with historical importance were restored and displayed, not only to be admired by guests but also to showcase the historical lineage of the Istana. Two chandeliers—originally gifted by the last Emperor of Austria to the 3rd Duke of Buckingham and then to the Straits Settlements Government—were restored and prominently hung over the half-landing of the grand staircase.

A 1½ foot—high wooden Indian statue which the Indian convicts who first built the Government House in 1869 apparently prayed to, is now displayed at the top of the Grand Staircase in the Istana. It is fondly referred to by Istana staff as the “Guardian of the House” After the renovation, the Istana re-opened its doors to the public on 19 January 1999, in celebration of Hari Raya Puasa. The addition of fire safety measures provided members of the public an opportunity to access the Istana building. To get a glimpse of the building interior, even if it’s only confined to the first floor, has proven to be a crowd-puller at every Open House.

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To help the public better appreciate the architecture, history and artefacts of the Istana, guided tours of the Istana were introduced

by President Tony Tan in 2013. Organised by the Preservation of Sites and Monuments and led by its staff and volunteer guides, the tour offered visitors a chance to step foot into the President’s official residence and get insights into the building’s long history, and its transformation over the years, architectural highlights and artworks that decorate the space. They also get a chance to view a selection of gifts which have been given to the President and Prime Minister over the years. In total, there are over 1,400 gifts displayed on a rotational basis. When he launched the tour, President Tony Tan said that the tour not only made history come alive for visitors, it also offered an opportunity for history enthusiasts to share their passion and knowledge of the Istana.

It is not just the Istana’s inherent architectural features and showcase of art and antiques which is a paean to Singapore’s heritage. Some slices of local nostalgia have been brought into the Istana. Visitors who find themselves resting on one of 14 esoteric wooden benches scattered around the Istana grounds, would be astounded to learn that the very same wooden planks used to construct the benches had lined the former National Stadium. Since the stadium’s opening in 1973, thousands of Singaporeans had fond memories of cheering on the Singapore football team and doing the “Kallang Wave” while sitting on these backless plank-benches. The stadium was closed in 2007 to make way for the Sports Hub.

from left to right:

Prime Minister’s official residence, Sri Temasek.

Members of the public listening on during the Istana Main Building Guided Tour at the Istana Open House.

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Fourteen benches from the former National Stadium have been recycled and permanently installed at the Swan Pond and other areas within the Istana grounds by the Urban Redevelopment Authority.

“ The first time I stepped into the State Room was when I was given the opportunity to be the emcee for the Boys’ Brigade President’s Award in 2015. What struck me most were the cultural artefacts that I saw throughout the day, from local pottery arts to Chinese calligraphy and drawings that were gifted to our past presidents. During the reception, I was also very pleased to be able to chat with the President’s Aide-deCamp to find out more about the culture and heritage behind the protocols observed in the Istana.”

AVERY HO, Emcee for Boys’ Brigade President’s Award presentation ceremony in 2015

In a unique marriage of historical preservation and artistic license, these planks were given new life by Singapore’s home-grown artists, designers and architects, as new bench designs to commemorate the Grand Old Dame of Kallang which can also be found around the island to enliven our public spaces.

ART DEVOTION Art features strongly in the Istana and its walls pay homage to stunning works by both local and foreign artists. Indeed, these artworks offer a priceless opportunity to present Singapore as seen through an artist’s lens, to the many guests who enter the Istana. An Istana Art Collection Advisory Committee helps to commission and acquire art pieces which are fitting for the Istana, while some of the artworks are gifts from overseas visitors.

Many of the artworks are by local artists, including works by renowned home-grown master potter Iskandar Jalil and celebrity photographer Russel Wong’s photos of the Istana. A perennial favourite is a painting depicting Singapore life in minute detail by Indonesian artist I Wayan Bendi, which visitors pore over as they try to identify the many Singapore icons in the painting. He is the only foreign artist commissioned by the Istana Art Collection Advisory Committee.

Some art pieces were commissioned by the President himself. In 1999, President Ong Teng Cheong commissioned artist Lim Yew Kuan to sculpt a bust of President Benjamin Sheares for the Sheares Room. Working with just 50 photographs of President Sheares, Mr Lim produced the 65kg bust in three months.

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Members of the public touring the interior of the Istana Main Building and viewing the display of gifts presented to the President and Prime Minister by foreign dignitaries (top) and viewing the furniture setup for various functions held at the Istana (left).

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Iskandar Jalil’s art pieces being displayed at the Istana.

“ As a Singaporean artist, it’s nice to be able to use my art to do something for the country.”

Artist Lim Yew Kuan

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Another significant piece of work commissioned by President Ong was a five-panel portrait of the different Singapore presidents encircled by their respective cabinets, by Singapore artist Chua Mia Tee. Singaporeans’ burgeoning arts interest also manifested itself in the form of the Istana’s annual arts event.

Seeing that the Istana Open House was a potential avenue to engage visitors in art activities, the President’s Office partnered the Singapore Art Museum (SAM) and the National Heritage Board (NHB) to premiere the Istana Art Event in 2002. Organisers fondly recalled that the event started out with a team of just two staff who were given a shoestring budget of $20,000 to finance the entire programme. They would zip around the Istana grounds in a buggy with a laundry list of to-dos, from ferrying materials and judges around, to making sure special guests were present for prize presentations. When it rained, they had to soldier on despite the buggy getting stuck in the mud. “I remembered I was on valium for a week in the run-up!” said one of the organisers.

The Istana Art Event has since grown to be an anticipated and much-loved part of every Open House held in celebration of National Day, a crowd-puller with something for everyone. From On-theSpot art competitions for children aged 3-12 which typically attract entries in the thousands, highlights over the years have included an Arts and Heritage Village comprising hands-on activities like assembling paper mahkotas (crowns) and keris (swords). In 2015, Singapore’s 50th year of independence, event participants could personalise their own hand fans featuring some of Singapore’s key artworks, or take part in

from left to right:

President Ong Teng Cheong viewing the sculptured bust of the late President Benjamin Sheares at the Telok Kurau Studio, 91 Telok Kurau Lorong J on 25 May 1999.

President Tony Tan viewing the winning art pieces and interacting with the winners at the Istana Art Event during the Istana Open House on 18 Aug 2013.

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Harmonious Future I, II, III (triptych)

by Leo Hee Tong, part of the Istana Art Collection.

“ I was glad for the opportunity to take our museum programming beyond the walls.

It was significant that the Istana lent itself to the branding of a museum programme— The Istana Art Event, something I started and which I am glad continues till today.”

JEAN WEE, Director of the Preservation of Sites and Monuments, National Heritage Board

President and Mrs Tan joined PA Talents in their fusion performance of Malay Cultural Dance and Batik painting called Slamanan Masa, and added finishing touches to the batik painting during the Istana Open House in celebration of Hari Raya Puasa on 17 Jul 2015.

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“ To do this job, it takes dedication, passion and attention to detail. The Istana greens are amongst the best in Singapore.”

KOH SOON KIONG, Curator, Istana

Lily Pond Garden in the Istana.

an interactive skit inspired by artist Chua Mia Tee’s iconic painting National Language Class.

EVOLVING GREEN OASIS A stone’s throw away from a popular shopping mall and bordered by roads on which cars whizz past, the Istana is in the heart of Singapore’s city. But upon entering its gates, one steps into another world: A 41-hectare oasis of serenity where birds can be heard chirping in the verdant silence and where majestic trees tower over lush greens. On walking further, one spots the gleaming white Istana building which arises like a jewel from the emerald expanse.

The green oasis which frames the Istana is a shining symbol of Singapore’s determination to create a tropical Garden City. The gardens of the Istana today—slowly transformed and carefully tended over the decades as its horticultural wonders take root—is a source of national pride and joy which reflects Singapore’s much-lauded greening efforts over the last 50 years.

To those who enter the Istana for the first time, they inevitably cite the beauty and expanse of the gardens as one of the most breath-taking parts of their experience.

The grounds around the Istana buildings have served the same function for over 150 years: It has always nourished horticultural life. From a nutmeg plantation, the gardens matured gracefully after Government House was built, as the British made various embellishments and modifications.

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President Tony Tan and Mrs Tan with volunteers during the Spice Garden Planting at the Istana on 25 Apr 2015.

But it was when Singapore became independent in 1965 that the gardens took centre-stage. Like how the rest of the Istana was transformed to reflect the thrust of the new nation, the gardens had to represent Singapore’s declared intention to be a tropical Garden City, when then-Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew planted a Mempat tree in 1963 to signify the start of the nation’s greening campaign.

The Istana grounds, which until 1966 had been administered by the Director of Botanic Gardens, became the responsibility of the Personal Secretary to the President. The duties later reverted to the National Parks Board (NParks), and it remains so until today.

In response to the national greening directive, the Istana’s gardeners geared up to groom the gardens as a showcase. Careful thought was put into the choice of plants to feature in the Istana grounds, which eventually also became a test-bed to experiment with plants potentially suitable for Singapore’s larger landscape.

Various improvements to the gardens were made during this time.

The Japanese Garden, nestling quietly behind the Centre Gate, was completed in 1967. The Swan Pond—where gleeful children today still gather to admire the swans during Open House events—was constructed in 1968. It is the largest of five ponds on the Istana grounds.

The horticultural red carpet was rolled out whenever foreign guests arrived, as hundreds of plants were trotted out to beautify the environment for events. On the dining table, guests were treated to the sight of freshly-cut orchids.

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from left to right:

Vanda Miss Joaquim Garden in the Istana.

Japanese Garden in the Istana.

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The Swan Pond in the Istana.

“ We had all sorts of fruit trees, including banana, papaya, pomelo, durian and langsat. We also added more fruit trees.

I still recall we had particularly sweet starfruits in the Istana, but it took a lot of work because we had to wrap each fruit in newspaper to protect it.”

PANG SOO TONG, Curator, Istana (1982—1989)

Rain trees that line the road leading up to the Istana Main Building.

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The gardens underwent a major overhaul in 1996, in conjunction with the renovation of the Istana building. New plantings added over 125 botanical species to the grounds, which were already home to 51 species of shrubs, 61 species of ornamental trees, 25 species of fruit trees and 16 species of palms. From the planning stages to the unveiling of the new garden grounds, the team took two years and went as far afield as Australia to source for suitable plants.

The front lawn, which used to be a garden, was converted into a useable outdoor space able to accommodate several thousand people. A fountain was also built on the front lawn, and new plants were carefully selected and planted based on their colour scheme. Currently, right in front of the main building are rows of orchids in yellow, orange and red. A flight of steps runs down to the next level which comprises the function lawn, around which are benches where visitors can sit on to enjoy a view of the city skyline.

The new landscaping aimed to maximise the aesthetic impact and grandeur of the Istana building upon approach, as well as to create a functional space.

One of the most extensive horticultural makeovers, testament to the dedication of the people involved, involved transplanting 18 meninjau trees, all over 10 metres tall, into the Istana. The trees now form a magnificent axis, akin to a line of sentries standing at attention, which frame the circular function lawn.

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The Istana Main Building and the Istana Lawn.

The choice of the meninjau is significant because the narrow evergreen is a native Southeast Asian tree. But finding the right trees was a tall order. They could not be grown from scratch, as that would have taken far too long, so mature trees had to be transplanted from elsewhere.

The NParks team scoured Singapore’s roadsides for beautiful meninjaus. Several were found, but when these were uprooted and brought into the Istana, they realised that the trees were dwarfed by the scale of the Istana grounds. Finally, the search ended at the AVA Agrotech Park in Pasir Ris where suitably huge trees, growing on undisturbed farmland with rich alluvial soil, were discovered.

Over two nights, the trees were carefully placed on flatbed trailer trucks with specially built racks, tilted so that the trucks could drive under overhead bridges, and driven from Pasir Ris to the Istana escorted by two mobile police outriders. The trees could only be moved after 10pm when traffic was low. Once at the Istana, the trees were planted into pre-dug 2.5m-deep holes, and arranged in order of height.

Visitors to the Istana the next morning, including the staff, were amazed at the overnight transformation. The trees, carefully prepared for the move from four months before, hardly lost a leaf.

In order to ensure that the Istana garden looks its best at all times, it is lovingly maintained by a dedicated team of 14 landscape technicians and horticulturalists. They take care of the Istana’s many green spaces, which not only include those on the front lawn, but also those of the residential gardens at Sri Temasek, The Villa and The Lodge, as well as the orchard, kitchen gardens and the flower nursery.

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The Whistling Ducks at the Swan Pond in the Istana.

“ After the re-introduction of the swans, we also started Butterfly and Bird Conservation initiatives which have been quite successful. The Common Birdwing and Common Rose butterflies were introduced in collaboration with Alexandra Hospital. This was followed by introduction of birds such as the Oriental Pied Hornbills and the Whistling Ducks with the help of the Jurong Bird Park. Jurong Bird Park provided the birds and also helped us to check and monitor the health of the swans.

These are all part of our bigger plan to increase the flora and fauna biodiversity in the whole of Istana.

That’s why we also have a native trees planting programme and more recently have added the spice, ginger and orchid gardens.”

WONG TUAN WAH, Senior Curator and Director of Conservation, NParks

The resident swans at the Istana.

They look into every detail, including how the grass is cut, which is with a very sharp blade for a smooth finish. One NParks staff quipped that it is akin to getting a good haircut with top-quality scissors, the quality is apparent.

They also ensure that the Istana’s greenery appears at its best before every event or function. This is certainly no mean feat, as official functions take place on an almost-daily basis.

Another Istana gardener reflected that the horticultural standards expected in the Istana is top-notch. “Taking care of the Istana gardens, the pressure is self-imposed because the expectations and standards are so high,” he said.

It’s not just plants which thrive in the Istana gardens. It is a veritable showcase of wildlife which flourish in the protected sanctuary, away from the public and urban disturbance. At least 67 species of birds have been recorded in the Istana, including kingfishers, sunbirds and bulbuls, and the Istana curators have always made deliberate efforts to protect and introduce new species of wildlife into the gardens.

Some of the wildlife were gifted by foreign guests. When the Istana’s Swan Pond was constructed in 1968, the Zoological Society of London gave a pair of white mute swans to the Istana. When then-Japanese Prime Minister Eisaku Sato gave a pair of carp to then-Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew in 1969, half of its hundreds of offspring were housed in the Istana’s ponds.

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Hornbills at the Istana.

A species of rare bird was introduced into the Istana in 2008, when the Jurong Bird Park gave the Istana a pair of hornbills. The hornbill is a beautiful bird with a large, long bill which was nearly extinct in Singapore. The pair bred successfully and can still be seen in the Istana gardens today. In 2012, the Jurong Bird Park gave the Istana seven Whistling Ducks to increase the biodiversity of the area.

Testament to the effectiveness of the Istana grounds as a wildlife incubator, the female swan introduced in 1968 later produced two eggs which was reported in The Straits Times on 27 February 1970: “The female swan laid two eggs on January 24 which are expected to hatch next week. Would-be Father Swan has become so protective and fierce—a characteristic of the species when the female lays eggs—that another pair of swans, which are black, had to be removed from the Istana pond for their own safety.”

One of the hornbill pair’s male chicks was paired with a rescued wild female bird from Pulau Ubin, and the duo were placed at the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, where they started breeding.

To attract certain species, the Istana’s gardeners grow special plants.

For instance, in order to attract a black and yellow butterfly to the Istana called the Common Birdwing which, contrary to its name is not common at all, the gardeners started growing a plant called the Dutchman’s Pipe on which this butterfly lays its eggs.

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“ The experience of leading nature guided walks at the Istana has been most joyful and enriching as I not only share my knowledge of the Istana outdoors, I also enjoy interacting with my tour party. I have noticed that tourists and foreigners living in Singapore are also coming to the Istana. I feel absolutely honoured to be in the Istana grounds. The architectural character of all its buildings, in particular the Istana, luxuriant greenery and its collection of majestic trees, never fails to leave visitors gasping in awe.”

THADDEUS LOO, volunteer for the Istana’s Nature Guided Walk

In response to public curiosity about the various plants in the Istana gardens, President Tony Tan asked to start a series of garden tours or Nature Guided Walks in 2013, which are conducted during the Open House. The walks attract up to 100 participants on average, every Open House. These guided walks complement the tours of the Istana buildings which are conducted by the National Heritage Board.

Recognising that Singaporeans have become increasingly wiredup, armed with smart phones which they rely on for information throughout the day, President Tony Tan launched the Istana Garden Walk mobile application which visitors can download and use to scan QR codes around the Istana grounds to find out more about the Istana’s gardens and landmarks.

The free application was developed by Temasek Polytechnic to provide an interactive self-guided tour option for visitors, and it has proved to be particularly useful during Open House events for those who want to independently wander the grounds, as well as for children who enjoy searching for the landmarks. Key landmarks featured in the app include The Swan Pond, the Grove, the Centre Gate and the Japanese Garden.

The Istana curator and his team continue to develop the gardens, to better serve the needs of those who enjoy it. Recent additions include a mini Vanda Miss Joaquim garden, as well as a new Spice Garden. The ideas for both gardens were seeded by President Tony Tan’s wife, Mrs Mary Tan.

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Volunteer Guide Bian Tan (lower left), introducing the flowers at the Istana Lower Lawn to participants from Queenstown Primary and Secondary School and APSN, President and Mrs Tan on 28 Jan 2014, during a preview of the Nature Guided walk at the Istana.

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“ With its tranquil beauty and layered history, the Istana garden is our country’s precious asset. I volunteered to be a guide for the Nature Guided Walk because I wanted to connect groups to this jewel of a garden.

What gives me joy is when I share stories associated with the flora, fauna and personalities of the Istana, and when I see the smiling faces of the visitors at the end of the tour.”

BETTY WEE, volunteer for the Istana’s Nature Guided Walk

President Tony Tan Keng Yam and Mrs Mary Tan take a view of the new addition to the Istana Gardens—the Spice Garden—during the Istana Open House on 17 Jul 2015, in celebration of Hari Raya Puasa.

“ We have introduced a lot of Singapore’s native orchids in the Istana grounds. A lot of these orchids have been lost over the years and we now have a programme to re-introduce them. The Istana is one of the places where we are nurturing these orchids because it is a protected space.

This is a very meaningful initiative because these are the plants which Singapore used to have, and they are being put back into the Istana.”

LILIAN KWOK, Deputy Director / Horticultural Standards & Nursery Management, Horticulture and Community Gardening Division, NParks

President Tony Tan and Mrs Tan viewing the new Vanda Miss Joaquim Garden at the Istana during the Open House on 17 Jul 2015.

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The planting of the national flower was Mrs Tan’s way of celebrating the nation’s golden jubilee while the idea for the Spice Garden came about after she visited the Community-in-Bloom show gardens at the Singapore Garden Festival in 2014. The Istana’s gardening team and more than thirty Istana volunteer nature guides and volunteers from Community in Bloom—a nationwide gardening movement which galvanises residents to nurture gardens in their community—were involved in planting over 30 different species of herbs, spices and edible plants to start the Spice Garden.

These include chilli, ginger, pandan, lime, roselle, lemongrass, sweet potato, tapioca and the Stevia rebaudiana, a plant with leaves which are 200 times sweeter than sugar. The Spice Garden and Vanda Miss Joaquim garden were both unveiled to the public in July 2015.

Most recently, a Ginger Garden was introduced into the Istana grounds. This garden showcases some of the gingers used for culinary and medicinal purposes in traditional Asian culture, and their close relatives, including native gingers such as the recently discovered Singapore ginger (Zingiber singapurense).

In the years to come, the Istana gardens will always be more than just beautiful greenery to create ambience. Its evolution over a century eloquently tells part of the Singapore story, and its beauty today is testament to the ideas and hard work put in by not just Singapore’s leaders, but also NParks, to realise the “City in a Garden” vision.

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