OAST - Issue 2 / Winter 2018

ISSUE 2 / WINTER 2018

CELEBRATING BEER AND PUBS FREE - PLEASE TAKE ONE

WELCOME

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Welcome to the Winter 2018 edition of

Signs of the times

Oast in which salad arrives on fire, dogs

Exploring the joy of pub signs

lead mankind out of savagery and you are

6 The Inn crowd Famous faces at one of Kent’s oldest Inns

invited to solve a literary mystery.

We also explore the joy of pub signs, visit the cradle of Cherry Brandy and hear from a real live Cockney.

We’re also delighted to introduce you to our first ever charity of the year and hope you’ll join us in supporting this most worthwhile of causes.

8 One man’s love of pubs Johnny Homer on his favourite subject

9 Five minutes with...

Wine Sales Development Manager Roshna Ahmad

Finally, in response to some of the feedback from our first edition, please be assured that yes, Oast is indeed free and you may take it home with you.

Oh, and you can win some beer too.

Benedict O’Connor Editor

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Waiter, my salad’s on fire

Remembering a mighty boy

Meet the team behind the award

Introducing Shepherd Neame’s first

winning Four Fathoms

ever charity of the year

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Market stalls to multi-million pound success

Dogs invented pubs

The inspiring story of a family business

Yes, honestly

15 Editorial: Kathryn Tye

Competition on the Coastguard Solve a mystery and win some beer

Benedict O’Connor Johnny Homer Design: Go Vicinity Creative www.govicinity.com 01227 760116 All enquiries: boconnor2@shepherd-neame.co.uk 01795 542263

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SIGNS OF THE TIMES

One of the many unique features of the great British public house is the humble pub sign, imitated all over the world but never equalled outside these isles for its inventiveness, quirk and charm.

and advances in agriculture. In the form of the

pilgrims passing the bishops finger signposts

Tabernae they also planted the seeds of what

after which the pubs - and of the course the

would grow into the great British pub.

beer - are named.

These Tabernae, from which we get the word

The Divers Arms in Herne Bay celebrates the

tavern, displayed vine leaves outside to

area’s historic connection with the early days of

indicate that they sold wine. The earliest

the diving industry. It features three submerged

There are around 39,000 pubs in the United

alehouses would develop this theme and by the

figures, in old style diving helmets, and boasts

Kingdom and the range of signs under which

mid-12th Century most inns had both names

the Latin phrase Dum Spiro Spero, which

they trade is vast and colourful. Many of these

and illustrative signs, very useful in an age

translates as While I breathe, I hope.

signs reflect regional, local and social history.

when most people were illiterate.

Some celebrate Kings, Queens, Lords and

In 1393 King Richard II decreed that inns must

greengrocer with a basket of oranges on his

Ladies. There are pub signs that pay homage to

display a sign, and the white hart that featured

head, a solitary fruit tumbling to the ground,

The sign for the Market House features a

famous sportsmen and women, while others

on his coat of arms provided the inspiration for

while a beautifully executed still life depicting a

remember - if not exactly celebrate - some of

many tavern names. Indeed many different

watering can and gardening hand tools is the

the more unsavoury characters and unfortunate

coats of arms, representing many different

perfect image for the Gardeners Arms.

events from history.

grand families and organisations, are reflected in pub names, most commonly as the Red Lion

“Pub signs are good examples of accessible

It is possible, with a little inventiveness, to

and the White Lion.

art,” said David Roe. “The picture on a sign can

show of pub signs.

Shepherd Neame’s pub estate features many

people from the past, or simply entertain and

striking pub signs, some appearing quite

delight us with some amusing or fine painting.”

“Pub signs are important,” said David Roe of

obvious but others altogether more intriguing.

tell us something about events, customs and

illustrate the history of the nation with a slide

On first inspection the sign for the Coastguard,

the Inn Sign Society. “They have been an integral part of the traditional English pub - and

The East Kent in Whitstable, for example,

its predecessors the inn, tavern and alehouse -

features the emblem of the Royal East Kent

our front cover, seems to make perfect sense,

for over a thousand years. The image on a sign

Regiment, or the Buffs as they are also known.

featuring a pair of nearby Art Deco houses set

has always defined or reflected the name of a

The Cricketers in Canterbury features two

against a stretch of the famous white cliffs. But

pub, since the days when few could read.”

moustachioed and padded up players enjoying

take a closer look. All is not as it seems. See

a pint before going in to bat. Or perhaps they

page 15 to see if you can solve a mystery and

have stopped for tea.

win some beer.

The roots of today’s pub sign can be traced back to the Roman occupation of these shores, from

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around AD43 onwards. The Romans brought

The sign for the Bishops Finger, in both

with them sanitation, new ideas in architecture

Canterbury and London, depicts medieval

at St Margaret’s Bay near Dover, as depicted on

THE SIGNS THEY ARE A CHANGING

history. They are also important for the

from black metal silhouette cut-outs, created

consumer as they provide a quick reference to

by blacksmiths, to hand-painted images in oil

the type of site. For example, if it is a traditional

or acrylic, and modern printed graphics. The

real ale pub or a more contemporary pub

carriers themselves are also being revamped,

focused on food.”

repainted in a range of colours including green, blue and gold.

So where do Shepherd Neame’s team of designers start, when a new pub sign is

In 2016, Shepherd Neame unveiled a new corporate identity, as part of which an ongoing programme of unique, newly-designed bespoke pub signs has been undertaken.

Martin added: “Pub signs are a uniquely British,

needed? The building’s style of architecture,

iconic emblem. I think over the past few

history and location are key.

decades their importance has been lost, and we

“We may take some inspiration from the

bespoke signs, created using traditional

are trying to rectify that by investing in quality, previous sign, but we always view the new

craftsmanship. We are guardians of many

sign as a blank canvas,” continued Martin. “If

beautiful, historic buildings and we feel it is

Each hand painted sign reflects the character

it’s a rural pub, the local countryside might

important to prize and retain that heritage.”

and history of the individual site.

influence some of the colours and imagery, while if it’s a city centre pub, you want to stand

Overseeing the project is Martin Godden, Shepherd Neame’s head of property services.

out in the High Street, so more vibrant colours might be used. Many of our pubs also have interesting stories, or historic connections that

He said: “We believe that pub signs are

can offer inspiration.”

incredibly important, not only from a corporate point of view as they carry our logo, but more

Every new pub sign is designed from scratch,

importantly to show the pub’s heritage and

and handcrafted. The new signs have ranged

Artist Julian Kirk works for Gerald Wilton Designs and has had a hand in many Shepherd Neame pub signs.

How did you become a pub sign writer?

I studied at art college and later university. Subsequently I have been a professional artist and sign writer for over thirty years. My commercial work for Gerald Wilton Designs ranges widely in subject matter and materials used, from illustration through figurative painting to carvings and one-off fabrications of all kind. Over the decades we have been asked to produce a wide variety of work, both for interior and exterior settings. We relish the challenge of more unusual requests and we enjoy the collaborative nature of the larger design briefs.

How much freedom do you have when it comes to painting a new pub sign?

Shepherd Neame will invite us at Gerald Wilton Designs to submit one or two working designs from which the finished design can evolve after initial approval. These early stages are often a shared design process with much discussion and research into individual location and circumstances. We’ve recently worked on the Divers Arms in Herne Bay. It incorporates a brass diving helmet, carved rope border with a coloured header to carry the lettering. Martin Godden at Shepherd Neame can claim credit for this one.

What is the average lifespan of a pub sign?

Pub signs are designed to last indefinitely. For exterior works we employ steel and aluminium in preference to wood, which rots easily. Modern composite materials are guaranteed to last for many years, as do modern gloss paints. Nothing last forever, of course, but signs can often be repainted after many years with little difficulty or expense. Coastal pubs get worse weather than inland locations, inevitably.

Of all the Shepherd Neame signs you have painted, do you have a favourite and why?

Of the Shepherd Neame signs I’ve recently worked on, the ‘portrait’ for the Millers Arms in Canterbury stands out. It was quite a challenge to produce a dramatic but balanced image, taken from a period reference but altered to suit. We gave it a series of darkening glazes until the desired level was reached, not easy given the nature of exterior grade gloss paints. This sign was supported by a second swing sign on another elevation depicting the great wooden Denne’s Mill, which once stood opposite the pub, prior to its destruction by fire in 1933.

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THE INN CROWD Passing through the pretty Kent village of Sarre you can’t fail to notice the Crown Inn, a charming old public house dating from around 1500 that boasts a fascinating history. It has been a Shepherd Neame house since 1897.

A notice outside reminds us that the Shakespearean actress Ellen Terry once made an appearance here, as did Dan Leno and Marie Lloyd, two of the biggest music hall stars of the day. Later, Douglas Fairbanks, Mary Pickford, Tommy Handley and ‘Two Ton’ Tessie O’Shea, among others, popped by for a libation, or possibly two.

Grade I listed, it is also known as both the Old Established Halfway House – it is situated between Canterbury and Margate – and as the Cherry

During his time as landlord, Lindo commissioned a charming pamphlet

Brandy House, the latter on account of its long association with this most

entitled Ye Olde Crown Inn At Sarre, subtitled A Short History of a

distinctive of liqueurs.

Famous Kent Hostelry.

This connection can be traced back to the 17th Century when cherry

Returning to the subject of historic liqueurs, visitors to the pub today will

brandy, made to a recipe brought to Kent by French Huguenots, was first

not be disappointed as Grants Morella Cherry Brandy is on sale. This

sold here. It certainly seems to have put the pub on the map, not to

venerable old brand can trace its roots back to the 18th Century and since

mention in the pages of numerous guide books.

1990 has been owned by Shepherd Neame.

Considering its rather sleepy location, down the years the Crown Inn has

“It remains a very popular drink,” said Clive Franklyn, licensee at the Crown.

attracted a varied roll call of notable customers. Charles Dickens visited

“At Christmas we sell quite a bit of it. There is one gentleman who has a

on numerous occasions, possibly while ensconced at nearby Broadstairs.

bar in Sicily, and he buys several bottles at a time to take back with him.”

Richard H Lindo took over as landlord in the early 20th Century. He had worked as manager and secretary at London’s famous Drury Lane Theatre for many years and several stars of stage, and later, screen, visited during his time at the Crown.

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“

‘TWO TON’ TESSIE O’SHEA, AMONG OTHERS,

”

POPPED BY FOR A LIBATION, OR POSSIBLY TWO.

Grants Morella Cherry Brandy is an historic and internationally renowned liqueur that has been produced in the county of Kent since the 18th Century.

It was first produced in 1774 in Dover, but production was moved to sites in Lenham and Maidstone after the original distillery was damaged by falling rocks from the famous White Cliffs nearby.

Kent has long been famous for its cherries and at one point there were around 20,000 trees growing locally, a mixture of wild and Morello.

Grants was one of Queen Victoria’s favourite tipples, while Charles Dickens was so fond of the stuff that he immortalised it in the pages of the Pickwick Papers, in all likelihood after first encountering the Crown Inn’s famous cherry brandy.

Grants was a family-owned business until the 1960s when production ceased and the famous old drink faced possible extinction. However in 1990 Shepherd Neame acquired the brand and revived it, incorporating many of the old design features in the bottle packaging.

It is made with 100 per cent English cherries and blended with pure English grain spirit to produce a rounded, warming and delicious drink.

The recipe is a very close match to the original, and very closely guarded too.

Grants Morella Cherry Brandy continues to proudly proclaim itself: ‘The National Liqueur of England’.

It goes down especially well on it’s own as an after dinner drink, or in a classic cocktail such as a Singapore Sling.

Whatever the occasion, Grants Morella Cherry Brandy proves popular with all who try it.

In 1994 it was awarded a Royal Warrant from HRH The Prince of Wales.

“

KENT, SIR. EVERYBODY KNOWS KENT APPLES, CHERRIES, HOPS, AND WOMEN. Charles Dickens, The Pickwick Papers

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Shepherd Neame Communications Executive Johnny Homer, a genuine Cockney, is also the author of several books on pub and brewing history. As his latest, East End Pubs, is published, he discusses his love for the Great British pub.

There are many reasons to love the Great British public house, but chief among them for me is that each comes with its own unique history. It is these histories that over the last few years have provided the backbone for a series of books I’ve written, starting with 2015’s Canterbury Pubs and culminating (for now, at least) with East End Pubs, which was published in November 2018.

These books are guide books, of a sort. For while they do occasionally pass comment on beer quality, beer range and sometimes even standard of service, they are primarily concerned with events and people from the past, with pub architecture and pub design. Occasionally I touch on brewing history, for brewing and pubs go together like cheese and onion.

The research involved has been both fascinating and enjoyable. Along the way I have made some wonderful discoveries while also revisiting a number of pubs that had somehow passed me by. The Princess of Prussia, in Prescot Street, is a fine example of the latter.

One of three Shepherd Neame hostelries

ONE MAN’S LOVE OF PUBS

included in East End Pubs, and located in Aldgate, I hadn’t visited the Princess of Prussia in many, many years. But when I crossed its threshold again one murky February afternoon, Jamaica Wine House in the City (the first place

with research uppermost in my mind, of course, I

in London where coffee was sold), the Eleanor

was instantly seduced by this lovely old place.

Arms in East London (with its connection to the women’s suffrage movement). I could go on.

The pub was first recorded here in 1860, although the current rather exquisite building, complete with old Truman’s livery, is probably

Many characters emerged while I was writing

early 20th century. My research revealed that

my books and I think one of my favourite was

John Cox had been landlord here in its

Dr William Butler. A 17th century physician,

early days.

court physician to James I no less, Butler

The more I delved the more it became clear

great popularity in its day. It was sold at a

concocted a ‘medicinal ale’ which enjoyed that Cox was quite a character. In 1862 he was

number of taverns in London, and these

declared bankrupt, which meant giving up the

taverns would have traded at the sign of the

licence of the Prussia. This doesn’t seem to

good doctor’s head. The best known of these

have stopped him becoming landlord of a pub

was, and indeed still is, the Old Doctor Butler’s

called the Jolly Waterman, across the Thames

Head in the City of London. The ale in question

in Rotherhithe. Cox died, of consumption, in the

was made from, among other ingredients,

City of London workhouse in 1867. People like

sage, scurvy-grass, wormwood and

Cox, I would suggest, are in their own way as

horseradish. All things considered, I’d rather

much the stuff of history as any King or Queen.

Stephen’s Green, from Canterbury Pubs, was

have a pint of Bishops Finger.

once home to the Beverlie Cricket Club and While writing and researching my books many

played a significant part in the formation of

other Shepherd Neame pubs have revealed

Kent County Cricket Club.

East End Pubs

intriguing histories. The Hoop and Grapes in

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(ISBN9781445680576)

Farringdon Street, featured in City of London

Then there’s the Marine Hotel in Tankerton

Pubs, was once a venue for clandestine

(built in 1895, originally as a rather grand

is available from

marriage ceremonies, known as Fleet

terrace of houses, later becoming a hotel, then

bookshops and online

marriages, while Ye Olde Beverlie at St

a military hospital and now a hotel again), the

RRP £14.99

five minutes with…

SHEPHERD NEAME’S TENANTED WINE SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER brewery visiting pubs, as a large part of my role

NAme: Roshna Ahmad Title: Wine Sales Development Manager

is liaising with licensees to compile wine lists. Our wine division Todd’s The Wine Company typically offers around 333 wines, and I help to identify which ones fit best with their business and food offering. I also advise on merchandising and back bar display, hold staff training sessions,

Work-related qualifications:

and host wine tastings and food matching

Diploma in Wines and Diploma in Spirits from

evenings around the estate. Due to the surge of

the Wine & Spirit Education Trust and Shepherd

customer interest in gin during the past couple

Neame’s in-house Master of Beer award.

of years, I now also spend a lot of time offering advice on gin selection and presentation.

How did you get into the industry?

English sparkling wine now accounts for 10% of fizz sales in the UK. A lot of them are single

I initially planned to pursue a career in radio,

What are the most rewarding parts of

vintage which is often better than much of the

and studied a degree in Music and Film, Radio

your job?

most commonly drunk Champagne.

and Television, but I took a part-time retail

I am passionate about wine, and love the

position with Peter Dominic Wine Merchants

variety of my role. It is very rewarding when

What is the most common mistake most

after finishing university and discovered a

you offer advice to a licensee and it results in a

people make when it comes to wine?

passion for the industry. I progressed to deputy

real difference to their business. I particularly

Assuming that all wines from the same grape,

manager, then joined marketing agency

enjoy the wine tasting and food matching

such as Pinot Grigio or Malbec, will taste the

SOPEXA which represents the French food and

evenings, as I love talking about wine and

same. The flavour profile is greatly influenced by

drink industry in the UK, as wine trade advisor. I

having free rein to use the full range of our

where they are grown and how the wine is made.

stayed with the firm for 11 years before moving

wine portfolio. People are more likely to buy

to work as an events and administration

wine now, although we still need to encourage

Any tips for those who are new to wine and

manager for Sensible Wine Services Ltd in

them to be more adventurous. Many go for the

unsure where to start?

Marden. I joined Shepherd Neame in 2002.

same wines over and over as they are unsure of

Find a good pub, restaurant or wine shop where

what to try, and I love to try and change that.

the staff know about wine and can offer some

What attracted you to the industry?

advice, based on the kind of flavours you enjoy

I found it fascinating. Wine tasting isn’t a magic

Is there a special way to ‘taste’ a wine?

in other drinks. There is also lots of information

skill, it is just a question of taking time to think

Look at the colour to check its clarity and

online, and the Wine Society website is

about the flavours in the wine you are drinking.

density, swirl it around to allow the release of

particularly good. But the top tip is simply to

There is always more to learn, with so many

aromas, take a deep inhalation known as

experiment. People are afraid of trying new

wines produced by different vineyards around

‘nosing’, then drink it. Suck it across your palate

wines but it should be fun. There’s a whole

the world, each with different qualities.

to gain the fullest flavour as it takes in oxygen

world of wine out there and it doesn’t have to

and touches different parts of your mouth.

be expensive. It is a very democratic hobby!

Has the industry changed since you first joined?

Any top tips for pairing wine with food?

If you weren’t working in the wine industry,

Wine has become much more popularised in

Most important is to match wine with the

what would you be doing?

the last 20 years. When I joined, there were lots

strongest flavour in the dish, rather than simply

In addition to spending time with my husband

of big groups such as Threshers and Oddbins

considering the main ingredient. Also think

and 20-year-old son, music is my passion, and I

selling wine, but now it is mostly sold by

about the method of cooking, as if a dish is fried

teach piano and sing in a chamber choir,

supermarkets, although there has recently been

or cooked in butter, for example, a wine with a

Canterbury Cantata. I would have loved to

a healthy renaissance of small independent

higher level of acidity is a good choice as it will

work as a professional singer.

wine shops. The quality of wine in pubs has also

cut through that. Another good tip is to think

got much better, as they have become more

about the region that the dish originates from,

What advice would you give to someone

focused on food so wine has become more

and pick a wine from that region.

considering a career in the wine industry?

important. The selection of wines available by

If you are passionate about wine, you will love

the glass in pubs is now better than many

What is your favourite wine?

it. You won’t earn a fortune, but every day will

restaurants. There is also more customer

It depends on the occasion, but I’m definitely a

be different. It isn’t just about drinking wine,

interest in provenance and quality.

fan of premium English fizz. I have always liked

there is a lot of hard work involved! But there

it but there are so many top quality ones now,

are lots of great personalities in the business,

What are your main responsibilities?

many of them local to us in Kent, such as Blanc

and the potential to travel to beautiful

Around 70% of my time is spent out of the

de Blancs from Gusbourne in Appledore.

vineyards around the world.

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WAITER, MY SALAD’S ON FIRE...

A salad titled Deforestation arrives at your table on fire, while a plate of whitebait titled Decadence is served with a lemon that has a spray nozzle fitted and a Russian doll containing caviar.

These dishes may sound like the type of quirky delicacies served up as part of a tasting menu at a Michelin-starred restaurant, yet they are in fact standard fare at the Four Fathoms pub in the quiet Kentish seaside town of Herne Bay, which was recently named Pub of the Year at the Kent Life Food and Drink Awards.

Licensee Joe Mullane and wife Jane took over the Shepherd Neame pub in February, and have already made a big impact, introducing a quirky new look and a bold new menu and drinks offer.

Joe works as head chef while Jane looks after front-of-house, and they describe their menu as ‘pub food reinvented’, offering delicious dishes with a twist.

olives and paprika crisps. Fresh flowers and fruit are used for decoration, and they have also introduced Ciderology, inviting customers to choose

These include Fish Pie in 3D, deconstructed to enhance its flavour

syrups made from local fruits to create a bespoke cider.

and texture, and Steak & Chips Circa 1970, described as a nod to the Berni brothers of the era but with contemporary elements such as

Jane said: “Our aim is to create a sense of theatre, serving great beer

truffle reduction.

and beautiful drinks in a unique way, encouraging customers to experiment and enjoy themselves.”

Joe, 55, said: “Food is my passion, which is why I gave up my job in the City to train as a chef at the age of 40. I love experimenting with flavours and coming up with new ideas, and I want to share that excitement with customers.

“All dishes, even a bowl of chips, are served with a complimentary amuse bouche. We cook everything fresh to order, and use premium quality ingredients including fish from Billingsgate Market, vegetables from local farms and meat from Broadway Butchers in Herne Bay.” This commitment to a special customer experience is continued in their drinks offer, as all glasses of wine, along with certain beers, are served with snacks designed to enhance their taste, such as chunks of cheese,

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The couple’s sense of fun is demonstrated in the new décor they have

efforts recognised with the award. It is also a

introduced at the pub. A wire cabinet previously used for wine storage

fantastic opportunity to thank our fantastic

has been converted into a Cabinet of Curiosities including an opticians

team of staff for all their hard work and support

section featuring plastic eyes and reading glasses for use by customers,

during the past nine months.”

and a collection of ‘crisp art’ fashioned from crisp packets.

The Four Fathoms is open from Tuesday to Sunday, with food served There is a table featuring a typewriter with sheet music for Marvin Gaye

from 12.30pm to 2.30pm and 6pm to 9pm Wednesday to Friday, 1pm to

song ‘What’s Going On’ to encourage customers to pick up leaflets and

9pm on Saturday and 12.30pm to 4.30pm on Sunday.

pamphlets advertising events in the local community. As devoted dog lovers, with a greyhound and Jack Russell, they have also created a

For more information visit www.fourfathoms.co.uk or call 01227 364411.

special station for pooches which includes ‘Pawsecco’ wine along with free water and dog biscuits.

Joe said: “This is our first pub, and although I have worked as a chef in a number of restaurants and pubs, Jane’s previous experience is as a legal secretary and she had never even pulled a pint, so it was a big step. But we knew exactly what we wanted to achieve at the Four Fathoms: to create our idea of the ‘perfect local’, offering fantastic service, food and drinks in a relaxed atmosphere. We certainly have more work to do, as we are always looking for ways to improve, but it is great to have our

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REMEMBERING A MIGHTY BOY

LOCAL HERO Name: Mike Peters age: 68 lives: Whitstable occupation: Self-employed musician, singing and playing bass guitar regular at: The Bear, Faversham

What are you drinking: A pint of Shepherd Neame’s Late Red. I always drink draught ale but I like variety, so I normally go for a seasonal ale.

Why are you here: I travel to France a lot with my work so I

A fund launched in memory of a Faversham schoolboy who lost his battle with brain cancer has been chosen as Shepherd Neame’s first Charity of the Year.

or five of us that have lessons together, and

Silas Pullen was a happy, sporty, bright 10-year-old when he was diagnosed in August

Bear for a drink and something to eat.

started weekly French lessons in Faversham about 10 years ago. There is a group of four afterwards we walk over the road to The

2012 with a tumour the size of a tennis ball. Despite two major operations and gruelling courses of radiotherapy, immunotherapy and chemotherapy, he died just after

Why did you choose The Bear:

Christmas 2013, aged 11.

I have been coming to the pub for about 20 years and know the licensees Chris and Marie

His parents Sarah and Ben Pullen started the Silas Pullen Fund to raise money for The

really well. It serves good old-fashioned

Brain Tumour Charity and support research into the treatment and cure of childhood

cooking in a friendly atmosphere, as if I was

brain tumours.

having a meal in my own home. And I have always lived in Kent so I know Shepherd

Chief executive Jonathan Neame said: “We are committed to supporting the community

Neame well and I like their beer.

we serve, and are delighted to be able to offer our support to such a worthy cause. The Silas Pullen Fund has special significance for our company, not only because the Pullen

What do you look for in a pub:

family live locally and are known to many of us, but because we have lost two members

Pubs are a big part of my life, whether I’m

of staff to the disease, and several other employees have lost loved ones. We hope to

meeting friends or performing. I think a pub

not only raise a significant amount of money, but also raise awareness.”

should be a meeting place, part of

The Sheps Giving committee will be working with the Silas Pullen Fund and Brain

character and its own regulars. I’m not a fan

community life, and it should have its own Tumour Charity to organise fundraising activities at the brewery and across its pub

of bland pubs that try to be bistros and only

estate throughout the next 12 months.

want to appeal to tourists. It’s nice to see

Silas’ Mum Sarah Pullen said: “My husband Ben and I are delighted to be supported by a

people behind the bar.

familiar faces in the pub and to know the national business with such strong local connections. We look forward to working with their team to raise awareness and funds and make a real difference to other families affected by a brain tumour.”

Visit www.shepherdneame.co.uk/sheps-giving for more information or to donate.

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FROM MARKET STALL TO MULTI-MILLION POUND SUCCESS When Keith Chapman first opened his fish market stall in a pub car park almost three decades ago, he never expected Chapman’s to become what it is today.

The Borough Green facility is open 24 hours a

tried to create a ‘family’ atmosphere at the

day, six days a week, only closing Sundays to

company, and are very proud to say that many of

deep clean, and Keith still has a very hands-on

our staff have been with us for over 10 years. That

role, with his typical working day starting at

continuity and knowledge enables us to provide a

5.30am.

fantastic customer service, and has helped Chapman’s stand out from the competition.”

He grew up in Sevenoaks and after leaving school Chapman’s now supplies some of the most

at 16, undertook a number of casual jobs before

Keith said: “We deliver six days per week, and

becoming a delivery driver for a fish supplier.

operate a 24 hour phone service to take orders.

famous restaurants in London and the South

We offer constant updates on the fish markets

East, sends vans to Manchester, Oxford and

Aged 26 he decided to branch out on his own,

and fresh catches, so busy chefs can just give

Southampton, and exports to Europe and even

and began sourcing fish from boats on the Kent

us a call at the end of their evening shift to

Barbados, last year adding Shepherd Neame to

and Sussex coast and selling it to members of

receive an order of fresh fish the next day.”

its list of clients.

the public from his stall. His reputation spread and local pubs and restaurants began asking

Despite its growth, Chapman’s has maintained

Keith said: “We are really proud of our

him to supply their kitchens. Eventually this

its family business approach, as Keith’s 16-year-

relationship with Shepherd Neame, particularly

became so successful that he couldn’t maintain

old son Daniel works at the Rye site, grading

as they are also a Kent-based family firm. They

both the stall and the distribution business, so

and sorting fish. Partner David Theze, a father-

were impressed by our commitment to

he chose distribution.

of-three from Whitstable, joined the business 15

responsible sourcing and quality, and we also

years ago, and his 16-year-old son George

have everything in place to cater for their high

Chapman’s now has a state-of-the-art

works for the company as a blockman (fish

demand. Fish and chips is one of the most

processing facility in Borough Green and

filleter) at the Borough Green site.

popular dishes across their estate, so there

factory at Rye, along with 50 staff and a £10

have been instances when we have been asked

million turnover.

to supply 800 cod fillets to cater for just one

Father-of-three Keith said: “The business was built on a reputation for freshness and quality, and that has never changed. Much of our produce is sourced from local fishing boats across the Kent and Sussex coast including 13 of our own boats in Rye. It is taken immediately to our depot in Borough Green, where it is

“

day of orders across three of their coastal sites

THE BUSINESS

during the summer.”

WAS BUILT ON A

He added: “I now live in Broadstairs with my

REPUTATION FOR

stroll down to the Royal Albion Hotel for cod and

FRESHNESS AND

fish we are eating has come from Chapman’s.”

QUALITY, AND

For more information visit

THAT HAS NEVER

”

family, and when the weather is nice we often chips. I still get a real thrill from knowing that the

www.chapmansofsevenoaks.co.uk

CHANGED

processed before going out in our fleet of vans.

Keith said: “David and I are both passionate

The fish can be delivered from boat to table

about the business, and it is so rewarding to

in 24 hours.”

share that passion with our sons. We have always

13

DOGS INVENTED PUBS Dogs invented pubs. Fact.

Now while that statement may not be true, in the best tradition of untruths, it does have a grain of truth in it.

Dogs were the first domesticated animals. We know not quite how, where or when this happened, but we do know that it happened while early man was still in the hunter gatherer phase.

WHAT THE DICKENS? Charles Dickens loved pubs and he also loved dogs (he once owned a St Bernard called Linda and later doted on a white Pomeranian called Mrs Bouncer). He also liked Dog’s Nose, a drink that he immortalised in the pages of the Pickwick Papers, without doubt the great author’s most bibulous book.

Dog’s Nose is a strong punch, a concoction of dark beer (stout or porter), gin, brown sugar and nutmeg. It packs quite a wallop and should be served hot. Winter is without doubt the season to sip Dog’s Nose, although in moderation of course.

Dogs are descended from wolves and it was with wolves that we first began to interact.

The theory is that we may have found inter-species cooperation helpful in hunting. The

In his rather eccentric book Drinking with

important point here is ‘cooperation’, as it seems that the domestication may have been

Dickens, Cedric Dickens, great-grandson of

a mutual process. That is to say we domesticated each other. We learnt from them,

Charles no less, recalls Mr Walker, a

they learnt from us.

character who crops up in the Pickwick Papers as a member of the United Grand Junction Ebenezer Temperance Association.

Brick Lane branch. Walker drank Dog’s Nose twice a week for twenty years, we are told, and was of the opinion that this had caused him to lose ’the use of his right hand’.

Here’s a recipe for you to try at home.

What we learnt was how to form complex relationships, what they learnt was that they

Dog’s Nose

could manipulate us to the point where several thousand years down the line we would

1 bottle Shepherd Neame Double Stout

feed them, walk them and pick up their excrement in little bags.

2oz gin

Through our ability to form more complex relationships we were able to make the

A generous pinch of nutmeg

1 tablespoon brown sugar transition to living in larger groups, leading to the development of agriculture and what we now think of as civilisation.

Method: Gently warm the Double Stout in a pan, but do not let it boil. Once it is warmed through add the gin, the brown sugar and then sprinkle the grated nutmeg on top. Drink while still hot.

Good luck.

Double Stout is available to

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The highest achievement of civilisation is of course the pub.

order at:

So the next time you see a dog in a pub, raise a glass in its direction.

www.shepherdneame.co.uk

Writers have always liked a drink, or as Brendan Behan would have it, drinkers have always liked to write.

This is also where Willie Wilde, the dissolute

provided the inspiration for Moonraker, the only

former drama critic holed up occasionally and

Bond book set entirely in Britain. In the book,

where he is thought to have been visited by his

Hugo Drax, the villain of the piece, builds the

more famous but equally ill-fated brother Oscar.

Moonraker rocket just outside of Deal.

Kent has provided inspiration for writers for centuries, so it is no surprise that the pubs of

The Boathouse at Yalding has a room

White Cliffs still stands and is depicted in the

Kent are thick with literary association.

dedicated to Edith Nesbit, author of the

sign that hangs outside the Coastguard. But

Railway Children and a regular guest in its

there is also another, more subtle reference to

For instance, you’ll struggle to find a pub in the

former guise as the Anchor, while over at

Fleming in the sign. Can you spot it?

county where Dickens didn’t sink a cheeky pint.

Boughton under Blean regulars at the White

Indeed a room bears his name at the Crown in

Horse would have had to push past Geoffrey

Sarre, as detailed elsewhere in this issue and he

Chaucer to get served once upon a time.

used to live in a house that now forms part of

St Margaret’s Bay near Dover is home to the

the Royal Albion Hotel in Broadstairs.

Coastguard and for such a small place has an unusually rich literary history.

It was here in 1945 that Noel Coward set up home in the not terribly imaginatively named White Cliffs. In an effort to secure his privacy he attempted to buy the neighbouring houses, but was prevented from doing so by post-war housing policy. To get round this his mother and friends, including the novelist Eric Ambler, were the alleged purchasers.

Coward was investigated but no wrongdoing was discovered.

A regular guest was James Bond creator Ian Fleming, who in 1951 bought White Cliffs from Coward. Coincidentally, Fleming’s brother Peter

Ian Fleming at his desk at Mitre Court,

was married to Celia Johnson, the star of

1961. Courtesy of Ian Fleming Images

Coward’s most famous work Brief Encounter.

© The Ian Fleming Estate and Ian Fleming Publications Ltd.

As well as being handy for the Royal St George’s Golf Club, the surrounding area

SOLVE A LITERARY MYSTERY & WIN BEER Study the sign pictured above and on our cover, and if you can spot the Bond reference, drop us a line at: competitions@shepherd-neame.co.uk with the answer and your name and contact details before February 28, 2019. All correct entries will be entered into a draw and the winner will receive three cases of Spitfire Amber Ale (each contains 8 x 500ml bottles). Only one entry per person and all entrants must be aged 18 years or over.

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