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JOYOUS COOKING
M O R E T O N N E A L I S A N A U T H O R A N D I N T E R I O R D E S I G N E R W H O L I V E S I N C H A P E L H I L L . S H E I S A L I F E L O N G F O O D I E , H A V I N G C O - F O U N D E D L A R É S I D E N C E I N 1 9 7 6 .
Gifts for Food Lovers With the exception of homemade goodies, I can’t imagine a better holiday gift than a cookbook or a book about food. Here are a few of my favorites of the year, written or published in our own backyard.
menu (the decadent macaroni au gratin!) and kitchen secrets, but the best part is learning about Ashley’s own background and philosophy, “Give until it hurts.” This big-hearted community leader should run for governor.
“Deep Run Roots” by Vivian Howard This is a thick, handsome tome that reflects the charm of Vivian, familiar to many of us from her TV show, “A Chef’s Life.” The chef/owner of the Kinston restaurant, Chef & the Farmer, shares stories and recipes using familiar Southern ingredients, enhanced by her own imagination and professional techniques. Having just made her brilliant rendition of tomato pie, I predict this will be a best-seller, for good reason.
“Barbecue” by John Shelton Reed John’s recipe for a good cookbook is a combination of cultural history and classic recipes, liberally seasoned with his characteristically wry wit. The former UNC sociology professor mixes his ingredients together with a burning passion for his subject. This is a terrific gift for folks who think they know everything about ’cue as well as those who need an introduction to N.C.’s most beloved and controversial foods.
“Poole’s: Recipes and Stories from a Modern Diner” by Ashley Christensen “Poole’s” showcases the talent, warmth and generosity of Ashley Christensen. The James Beard Award-winning chef pioneered downtown Raleigh’s nowlively dining scene when she boldly opened Poole’s, and later, a large stable of successful restaurants, each one unique. In these pages you will find extraordinary recipes from the diner’s
“Learn to Cook 25 Southern Classics 3 Ways” by Jennifer Brulé Its unsexy title actually describes the book perfectly, but doesn’t do justice to its liveliness and originality. Inspired by living and eating both in the South and in Europe, the entertaining Jennifer offers varied perspectives on familiar dishes. Each chapter includes one traditional Southern recipe, e.g., classic deviled eggs, followed by one contemporary
recipe (herbed olive oil deviled eggs) and one international (truffled devils). The fun is deciding which to make. “The Carolina Table: North Carolina Writers on Food” Edited by Randall Kenan “A buffet of North Carolina food stories” by Daniel Wallace, Lee Smith, Celia Rivenbark, Jill McCorkle, Bill Smith, Nancy McDermott and many others, including yours truly. CHM
Devils on Horseback In “Bacon,” another book I love, Fred Thompson’s recipe for Devils on Horseback uses just two ingredients, bacon and prunes. I haven’t yet tried his version, but here’s a familiar variant of that 1950s-era crowd-pleaser that’s perfect for holiday parties. Serve it with a Garden and Gun Club, a bourbon cocktail from “Poole’s.” 16 dates 8 slices hickory-smoked bacon, cut into halves
3 oz. blue cheese, more or less Slice along the long side of each date. Open it up and stuff with a small amount of blue cheese. Close and wrap with one-half bacon slice. Secure with a toothpick. Place on a cookie sheet covered with parchment paper. Bake at 350 F for 15 minutes, then flip with tongs and bake another 5 to 10 minutes until bacon is browned. Serve warm. CHM
PHOTO BY JAMES STEFIUK
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