SGN June 15, 2012 - Section 3 - Travel

Seattle Gay News

Issue 24, Volume 40, June 15, 2012

Section 3 TRAVEL GUIDE

by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer EXPA NSEP HOTO GRAP HY.C OM

Y. SHIM IZU

Imperial Palacee

The battle for Gay-friendliest city in Europe remains unsettled between Paris and Berlin, while a similar contest in Asia pits Tokyo against Bangkok. I have visited both cities in the past year, and Tokyo, Japan’s most populous urban area with more than 10 million residents, gets my vote.

Tokyo is rather shy when it comes to Gay culture, choosing subtlety over the glaringly obvious, yet it’s this hushed characteristic that often leads to unexpected and surprising pleasures. Because of its size and language barrier, Tokyo can be intimidating to American visitors. So I recommend focusing on a few specific neighborhoods or districts, and carrying a lightweight phrasebook/translation dictionary. Above all, don’t worry: the Japa-

TRIP PLANNING RESOURCES The Japan National Tourism Organization has a tab on its website, www.japantravelinfo.com, titled “Plan Your Trip,” which provides all the necessary information to create your dream journey to this Far East country. If you desire a more personalized experience, Magnet Tours (www.magnettours.jp) is the first Japanese tour company catering specifically to Gay and Lesbian visitors. Shintaro Koizumi and his expert staff can create a week-long or single-day itinerary, meeting you at the airport or your hotel to begin the tour.

Magnet has knowledgeable guides available in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and other cities.

GETTING TO TOKYO Two airlines, Delta and United, fly nonstop from Seattle to Narita International Airport. A third, All Nippon Airways, will join them

starting July 25. Delta’s daily flight departs Seattle in the early afternoon and arrives in Tokyo in the late afternoon, with a flight time of 10.5 hours. That’s a long way to travel in Economy, so I suggest Economy Comfort, with seats near the front of the plane. This section offers 10 cm more legroom, 50% additional seat recline, priority boarding, and complimentary alcoholic beverages throughout the trip.

For Economy Comfort, book your flight in Economy and then change your reservation online at www.delta.com – a minimal fee (I paid $120 each way) will be charged. Business Elite, also offered on trans-Pacific flights, is more expensive but has great advantages. The food wasn’t exceptional when I traveled (the dinner was barely warm, the breakfast fruit was colorless), but the fully reclining, lie-flat seats on Delta’s newer aircraft are generous in size. Other perks include a first-rate amenity kit, a thick quilted duvet, a wonderful selection of beers and wines, an even better menu of entertainsee TOKYO page 20

ZASTAVKI

Tokyo, Japan

nese are the friendliest hosts in the world, seemingly without effort. It’s this sincere courtesy and a very flirtatious Gay scene that makes Tokyo a most inviting place to see in person. Here are tips and suggestions for visiting this enormous, beautiful city.

by Shaun Knittel SGN Associate Editor

kick off your shoes, put your feet up, and take a deep breath. The rooms are spacious with updated bathrooms, and many of them have a balcony where you can enjoy the crisp night air as the sun goes down or sip coffee in the morning while poring over the lists of outdoor activities to choose from.

We opted for kayaking on Ludlow Bay. For one hour, while seated in a two-person

Port Ludlow Inn

iad of amenities. It’s a place where families and couples make lasting memories. I know this to be true because that is exactly what my partner and I did. I would recommend a weekend stay (or even just one night) to anyone looking to melt away his or her stress in a Jacuzzi tub next to a fireplace, while looking out over the marina.

The accommodations are not overdone, although for younger Gay men the décor probably isn’t what you’d choose for your own bedroom. In fact, I will just call it what it is: cheesy. But that’s all well and good because when you stay at a place like the Resort, you aren’t spending your time assessing the interior decorating. Instead, you

kayak, we navigated the calm, clear waters of the bay, spying crabs and schools of fish.

Although there are a good number of boats moored to the docks, the bay is surprisingly low-traffic. I quickly gained confidence as a first-time kayaker and had a really good time watching bald eagles from sea level as we rounded an island where the majestic bird is said to nest.

Back at the Resort, you’ll find breakfast, lunch, or dinner excellently prepared at the Fireside Restaurant, which includes that lovely bar I mentioned at the beginning of

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June 15, 2012

this travelogue. Nearly every seat has a waterfront view. The menu is small yet bountiful, and the service was what one would come to expect at a place that dares proclaim itself a resort. Here’s how you know the Fireside is good: many locals will tell you it is their favorite place to dine on the island.

If you’re a golfer, you’ve come to the right place. A short (10 minute) drive from the main resort is one of the most beautiful and well-groomed courses I’ve ever seen. Golf isn’t my game, but we rented a cart and enjoyed a relaxed drive around the grounds, taking in the breathtaking views along the way.

Yes, the Resort at Port Ludlow is secluded, and yes, some visitors might get cabin fever. But they’ve got you covered.

There are nature walks, a wild game reserve a short drive away, fishing, boating – you name it, they’ve got it. And at a low cost, too – most of their prices are not adjusted based on the season, so you’re getting a pretty fair deal no matter what time of the year you book your stay.

If you are looking for an inexpensive and fast exit from the city, the Resort at Port Ludlow should be on your list of destinations. Not too over-the-top that you watch helplessly as your bank account is drained, and certainly not so tacky that you feel like you are staying at the Bates Motel, the Resort is just the right balance between country and city life. And, you’ll want to keep this property on your wedding reception radar for when we Approve Referendum 74 this November. I suspect the Resort will soon begin to take on a decidedly rainbow hue.

The Resort at Port Ludlow is located at One Heron Road, Port Ludlow, WA 98365; phone 1-877-805-0868; website www.portludlowresort.com.

PORT LUDLOW ASSOCIATES

Port Ludlow Marina

2

LUDLOW PORTAL

I’m a city boy. That’s just the way it is.

Where some people look out at a panoramic view of nature’s best, I see that same beauty in the skyline of a bustling city. Take Seattle, for example. It’s beautiful. The skyline with the Space Needle is one of the most recognizable cityscapes in the nation.

So when my partner starts talking my ear off about getting out of the city for a little while I always think, “But why?”

It takes forever to get there. Everything closes early. And there are only so many trees I can look at before I am bored to tears. Fed up with my aversion to all things “earthy,” he decided to book us a room at a seaside resort, one that is – and here’s the catch – less than an hour and a half away from Seattle. The room has a Jacuzzi, you say? There’s a bar downstairs that stays open late? I’m there!

This destination unknown, the Resort at Port Ludlow, soon became more than known. It became comfortable, affordable, and dare I say it – beautiful. Complete with a golf course, marina, and inn, this little slice of Pacific Northwest heaven is one of Washington’s premier waterfront resorts, situated on the pristine shores of Puget Sound, providing breathtaking views of Ludlow Bay, the lush tree-lined coast, and the magnificent Olympic Mountains. The folks at the Resort advertise, “Come for a day, stay for a lifetime,” and that’s not a bad estimate of how your visit will feel. Within an hour of arriving, your whole perspective is changed. The world slows down, all background noise dissipates, and suddenly being out of the city isn’t so bad at all!

Port Ludlow is easy to get to by car.

You simply drive aboard the Bainbridge Island ferry (it’s first-come, first-serve, no reservations) and 35 minutes later you are back on dry land heading toward the Resort. Seriously, the 35 minutes it takes to reach the island from the pier in Seattle is faster than a weekend drive to Northgate Mall or Sea-Tac Airport. And “the boat” (as its known to locals) is inexpensive, too. For less than $20, we crossed the Sound with our vehicle, and a nice, relaxing trip was at our fingertips.

Driving from the ferry pier to Port Ludlow is equally painless. It’s 45 minutes (max) to the stunning and tranquil

Resort. Locals have dubbed the property “the last great waterfront resort,” and it feels that way. As soon as you step inside the Resort you can almost feel it in the air – it’s as if the building itself is telling you to “relax, I’m not going anywhere.”

The Resort at Port Ludlow offers firstclass, personalized service, luxury accommodations, outdoor adventures, and a myr-

Celebrating 38 Years!

e t o v o t RegisteR

www.myvote.wa.gov

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Celebrating 38 Years!

by Andrew Collins SGN Contributing Writer Although they’re the two largest cities of a decidedly conservative state, Memphis (www.memphistravel.com) and especially Nashville (www.visitmusiccity.com) have developed into popular destinations for Gay and Lesbian travelers in recent years. Both cities have sizable LGBT communities, are steeped in American music lore, and have noteworthy restaurant scenes – not just barbecue and Southern fare, which is legitimately outstanding in these parts, but sophisticated contemporary cuisine. In both cities, fans of dancing

and clubbing will also find a nice range of Gay nightlife options.

Here are some key exploring, dining, nightlife, and hotel highlights in these two cities, which are just 215 miles apart via Interstate 40.

MEMPHIS There’s much to keep visitors busy in this city famous for blues, Elvis, and the tragic assassination in 1968 of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Today the Lorraine Motel, where King was shot, is the home of the National Civil Rights Museum, whose collections tell the story of Amer-

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ica’s civil rights history. The surrounding South Main Street neighborhood is a good spot for a stroll, with several cool shops and cafes. A short drive south, you’ll find one of the city’s lesser-known cultural gems, the National Museum of Ornamental Metal, whose galleries and outdoor sculpture garden sit on a hilltop overlooking a scenic bend in the Mississippi River.

Along with King, the name most associated with Memphis these days is Elvis Presley, whose palatial – and decidedly kitschy – mansion, Graceland, is a must-see. Allow at least two hours to tour the home, his custom jets, the car museum, and the several other exhibits that make up this impressive compound.

Downtown Memphis, where W.C. Handy helped turn Beale Street into the nation’s blues capital, abounds with live-music clubs, lively restaurants, and a number of excellent hotels. Beale Street’s vibe is fairly touristy, and you won’t find any Gay hangouts here, but the city’s Mid-South Gay Pride Festival does take place here in October. You can tour the outstanding Memphis Rock & Soul Museum, which traces the region’s vibrant music heritage, as well as the Gibson guitar factory. Other attractions that music buffs should check out include Sun Studio, where Elvis cut the early demo tape that launched his career, and the Stax Museum of American Soul Music.

Memphis extends well east from downtown toward Midtown, which has many of the area businesses most popular

merican

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ic

Soul Mus

with Gay visitors. In the Overton Park section, you can tour the excellent Memphis Zoo and the acclaimed Memphis Brooks Museum of Art. A short drive south, the hip and funky Cooper-Young neighborhood abounds with distinctive restaurants and quirky shops, including Inz & Outz, which carries Pride gifts, underwear, erotica, and the like.

Cooper-Young is home to one of the best barbecue joints in town, Central BBQ (www.cbqmemphis.com), which turns out fiendishly delicious ribs and pulled pork. Other neighborhood hot spots, all with a Gay following, include Tsunami (www.tsunamimemphis.com) for Asian-fusion cooking; Alchemy (www.alchemymemphis.com), with its tasty tapas and well-crafted cocktails; Sweet Grass (www.sweetgrassmemphis.com), known for inventive regional American cuisine; and the campy Beauty Shop (www.thebeautyshoprestaurant. com) and neighboring Do Sushi Bar and Noodle Shop. For great coffee and plenty of room to socialize or curl up with a book, Otherlands (www.otherlandscoffeebar.com) is one of the best indie coffeehouses in town.

In downtown Memphis, Local Gastropub (www.localgastropub.com) and, for fantastic soul food, Lunch Box Eats (www.lunchboxeats.com) both serve excellent edibles, and the swanky, historic Peabody Hotel is home to a pair of celebrated restaurants, Chez Philippe and Capriccio Grill.

South of downtown, the 901 Complex is one of the largest Gay clubs catering primarily to African-American patrons in the country – the club also hosts Memphis Black Pride in June. Other Gay favorites fairly close to downtown include elegant Mollie Fontaine (www.molliefontainelounge.com), a trendy, mixed Gay-straight lounge set in a historic house in the city’s Victorian Village Historic District, and a massive dance venue, Club Spectrum (www.thespectrummemphis.com). Most of the city’s Gay bars are in Midtown, where you’ll find several neighborsee MEMPHIS/ NASHVILLE page 18

ht

FIL E PH OT O

Nashville at nig

FILE PHOTO

The Hernando DeSoto Bridge at Memphis

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 Broadway 

Farmers Market 6

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Broadway & E. Pine at Seattle Central Community College Sundays, 11am - 3pm, April 22 - Dec 23.

Celebrating 38 Years!

“People come from all over the world just to get drunk in New Orleans,” the airport shuttle driver told me.

There has never been a more accurate sentence than that one. New Orleans, especially the French Quarter, has a reputation of being a virtual Bacchanalia at any given time and on any given day, but there’s more than just liquor to whet one’s appetite. The sultry Basin City has lots to offer even if alcohol-fueled revelry isn’t your main goal. There are tons of sights to see, food to enjoy, and history to explore.

The first essential of a New Orleans visit is your location. The Hotel Monteleone (www.hotelmonteleone.com) is nestled in the heart of the French Quarter, making every neighborhood destination easily accessible by foot. This hotel is one of only three literary landmark hotels in the United States (the other two are in New York). Tennessee Williams wrote The Rose Tattoo while staying at the Monteleone, and Truman Capote often claimed he was born there.

The rooms are very comfortable and offer every luxury imaginable.

Spacious bathrooms include strong showers and elegant tubs for soaking. The rooftop pool offers food and beverage service to make swimming laps more luxu r ious.

The lobby’s Carousel Bar is perhaps as famous as the hotel itself. This slow revolving bar provides a comfortable atmosphere and nightly music.

Great food can be found throughout the city but it is brought to perfection in the French Quarter. For a quick start there is nothing better than the traditional New Orleans breakfast of beignets and “chickaree” coffee (coffee flavored with chicory).

At Café Beignet three of these delicious puffed pastries covered in powdered sugar can be enjoyed al fresco or on the go. More traditional breakfasts and lunches are on the menu as well, but there’s a reason their slogan is “Beignet – Done That.”

If a jazz breakfast is your style, try the Court of Two Sisters (www.courtoftwosisters.com). Two Creole sisters – Emma and Bertha Camors – give this establishment its name. Outside courtyard seating, under vast leafy trees and next to flowing fountains, is enjoyed to the sounds of a jazz trio. Served buffet style, the selection of traditional Nola crawfish, glazed ham, turtle soup (with

com) is a taste of old New Orleans for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Creole-style andouille sausage with cheddar cheese omelets are so light they practically hover over the plate (and if you drink too much brandy milk punch or Absinthe Suissesse with your meal, yours just might). While Brennan’s is known as the birthplace of Bananas Foster, try the strawberry crepes for an equally flaming dessert presentation.

Seafood is abundant in New Orleans and every place has a different way to prepare it. As its name suggests, the Red Fish Grill (www.redfishgrill.com) specializes in delights from the sea. Raw oysters on the half shell or served barbecue-style are offered with bleu cheese dressing or cocktail sauce with horseradish. If you are the only nonseafood eater at the table, rest assured you will still be satisfied – the grilled beef tenderloin was sheer perfection. For a different take on the flaming dessert, try the Bananas Foster ice cream sandwich.

ALEX EY SERG EEV

by Eric Andrews-Katz SGN A&E Writer

For a more casual, bar-like feel you might enjoy Ste. Marie (www.stemarienola.com).

Styled after a French bistro, this laid-back or without sherry), and a variety of fruits, restaurant is perfect for a relaxed meal. The cakes, breads, and omelets will appeal to French onion soup is made New Orleans style with a thick layer of cheese baked on everyone.

Brennan’s (www.brennansneworleans.

meat. Our server was Dontay, and when he added extra liqueur to our evening’s dessert, he created a Bananas Foster that should have been renamed “Dontay’s Inferno.”

The Creole cheesecake cobbler was so good it would make the Golden Girls weep, and the white chocolate bread pudding also was heavenly.

If the food’s richness is a concern, worry not ­– there are many great ways to burn off calories in New Orleans. The Kayakiti-yat Tour (www.kayakitiyat.com) is not only a wonderful way to enjoy the outdoors, but it can’t be beat for exercise and touring the richness of the city. With a personal guide (Sonny or Sara), your kayak is set into the historic Bayou St. John and the paddling begins. Viewing the wildlife in its natural habitat is easy, as night herons and ducks swim alongside the boats, while snapping turtles (and the occasional soft-shell) sun themselves on the shorelines and tree trunks jutting out of the water. A rare alligator sighting may occur, but it should be no concern with the well-experienced guides. With a snack and swimming break in Lake Pontchartrain to break up the four-hour voyage (a two-hour tour is also offered), there is no better way to observe the subtle beauty of life along the bayou.

If you prefer to keep your feet on solid ground you may find the Sculpture Gardens of the New Orleans Museum of Art (www.noma.org) more your speed.

While not walking distance from the French Quarter, the local streetcar line will get you there (although, sadly, the car is not named “Desire”). This form of transportation is as much associated with New Orleans as cable cars are with San Francisco, and the short 30-minute ride to the museum allows a completely different view of the city.

Artists from all over the world are represented in the gardens, which are surrounded by inviting paths and ponds. A free audio tour (using your cell phone) highlights many of the garden’s artists. Inside the museum itself, works by many other masters can be found, from El Greco to Georgia O’Keeffe, including a large collection of local Creole art.

There is definitely a richness and heritage to New Orleans; this cannot be denied.

Numerous walking tours are available for those wishing to explore the city’s connection to ghosts, vampires, voodoo, literary or military history, or any other part of its lush past. And don’t pass up the great shopping and browsing opportunities offered by the city’s antique and collectible stores. Every Mardi Gras souvenir you can imagine can be found, from detailed rhinestone masks to plastic beads. And these are just a few distractions from Bourbon Street.

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top. For somet h i ng different try the alligator with quail egg. This gumbo-style soup is reminiscent of spicy minestrone but much thicker. Alligator meat is a delicacy of the South, and while it can be a little chewy, in this soup it’s very tender, subtly absorbing the flavor of the gumbo.

The Palace Café (www.palacecafe.com) is another excellent choice for traditional Nola cooking. The chicken and sausage gumbo is wonderful, with chicken and andouille pieces swimming in an aromatic stew. The fish is seasoned with an in-house collection of spices that make the mouth water just smelling it. The braised pork shank was equally incredible, with a strawberry barbecue sauce braised tenderly over the

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by Andrew Collins SGN Contributing Writer

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Taughannock Falls near

Ithaca, New York

Rochester, New York

warmly furnished rooms and a lovely setting on a tiny lake, and the nearby Friends Lake Inn (www.friendslake.com) is also quite nice.

THE FINGER LAKES For its acclaimed Riesling and increasingly well-regarded Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir, the Finger Lakes wine region (www.fingerlakeswinecountry. com) has become the top winemaking area in the eastern United States. More than 100 wineries thrive in this land of 11 deep, narrow lakes.

Seneca Lake (www.senecalakewine.com) is at the center of wine country, but neigh-

June 15, 2012

itithaca.com), home to Ithaca College and the main campus of Cornell University, as well as such cultural gems as the Hangar Theatre and the Kitchen Theatre, and the Cayuga Nature Center, with its many trails and animal enclosures.

Also spend some time in the small, rejuvenated city of Corning, home to excellent Corning Museum of Glass, which showcases a collection of glassworks dating back 35 centuries; the Rockwell Museum of Western Art, with an outstanding collection of Western and Native American artworks; and the several blocks of distinctive shops, galleries, and restaurants that make up the historic Gaffer District.

For dining, favorites along the Seneca Lake shoreline include the Stonecat Cafe, which serves boldly seasoned, rustic American fare, and Suzanne, which occupies a rambling old farmhouse and serves artfully plated dinners with the same genial pace and warm service you might encounter at a dinner party. In nearby Ithaca, students get their fix of cheap and authentic ethnic food at Saigon Kitchen and Sticky Rice, and coffeehouse culture thrives at Collegetown Bagels on the hill near Cornell’s campus as well as downtown. Near here, the urbane Just a Taste Wine & Tapas serves stellar Spanish-inspired small plates, the cozy Carriage House Cafe turns out delicious breakfasts and lunches, and iconic Moosewood Restaurant draws devotees of vegetarian cooking. Noteworthy in Corning are the cheap and cheerful Atlas Brick Oven Pizzeria and the elegant Three Birds Restaurant.

Gay nightlife is limited in these parts, but Ithaca bars tend to attract a mixed Gay and straight clientele – especially Felicia’s Atomic Lounge and the Oasis – and, not far away, you’ll find Gay in Elmira (Club Chill) and Binghamton (Merlin’s).

An excellent base for wine touring at the southern tip of Seneca Lake, the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel (www. watkinsglenharborhotel.com) contains 104 airy and modern rooms, many with water views, as well as the excellent Blue Pointe Grille. In Ithaca, you can enjoy the solicitous service of students from the prestigious Cornell School of Hotel Administration at the Statler Hotel (www.

Seager and the home of a sensational restaurant.

Just down the road, Atwater Estate Vineyards turns out terrific Cabernet Franc and Riesling and is an ideal venue for same-sex weddings (the lake view is impressive).

Wagner Vineyards produces not only a bounty of great wines but also well-crafted microbrews. Finger Lakes Distilling earns kudos for its aromatic gin, bourbon, and distinctive aperitifs. Also consider Miles Wine Cellars, Anthony Road Wine Company, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, and Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, a Riesling legend on Keuka Lake.

Other highlights in these parts include the liberal college town of Ithaca (www.vis-

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THE ADIRONDACKS Home to more than 46 mountain peaks above 4,000 feet and a mix of hardscrabble villages and dapper resort towns, the Adirondacks region (www.visitadirondacks.com) encompasses one of the largest state parks in the country. The park’s southern gateway is Lake George, a welldeveloped vacation center popular with families and rife with amusements, from riverboat cruises to mini-golf centers.

Venture north along routes 28 and 30 through North Creek, Blue Mountain Lake, Long Lake, and Tupper Lake, and you’ll discover some of the prettiest roadtripping, hiking, and boating in the Northeast. Key attractions in these parts include the Adirondack Museum, a rambling 32acre open-air livinghistory museum in Blue Mountain Lake that traces the region’s history in fascinating detail, and the WILD Center in Tupper Lake, where clever exhibits interpret everything from local wildlife to the geology of the Adirondacks’ soaring peaks. Or head up Interstate 87, taking Route 73 west to reach storied Lake Placid, a lively hub of recreation and relaxation that’s hosted the Winter Olympics on two occasions.

Many of the swankier dining options in these parts are in Lake Placid, with the Brown Dog Cafe and Wine Bar, Caffe Rustica, and Eat ’n’ Meet Grill (in Saranac Lake) scoring high marks for great food and inviting settings. A New Leaf Coffee House is a funky stop for java, and in a wooded grove between Lake Placid and Saranac Lake, kitschy Tail-o’-the-Pup makes a fun stop for a lobster roll or a platter of barbecued ribs (you’ll find affordable cabins onsite, too). Down in the area’s southern reaches, check out casual Basil and Wicks in North Creek for wellprepared comfort favorites, or nearby barVino for creative regional American fare.

boring Cayuga (www.cayugawinetrail. com) and Keuka (www.keukawinetrail. com) lakes also have prominent wineries.

Highlights include Red Newt Cellars, the purview of openly Gay winemaker Brandon

AES THE TICS CAF E

The recent legalization of same-sex marriage in New York has given a boost to a number of classic romantic vacation spots in the state’s northern and western regions. Of particular note are the Adirondacks and the Finger Lakes, two areas that abound with gorgeous natural scenery and charming accommodations – the former is also a renowned winemaking region. Near the Finger Lakes, the progressive, culturally vibrant city of Rochester is a great choice if you’re seeking an affordable, Gay-friendly urban getaway.

Here’s a quick profile of three upstate New York destinations gaining new cachet with LGBT honeymooners.

Both members of the revered Relais & Chateaux group, the upscale Lake Placid Lodge (www.lakeplacidlodge.com) and the ultra-exclusive, completely secluded Point Resort (www.the- pointresort. com) are among the plushest accommodations in the Adirondacks. The historic family-operated and quite Gayfriendly Mirror Lake Inn (www.mirrorlakeinn.com) is less pricey but still upscale, with an excellent spa and three restaurants onsite. In the heart of downtown Lake Placid, the Haus on Mirror Lake (www.thehauslp.com) has handsome rooms with full kitchens and contemporary Adirondack furniture.

Other good LGBT-friendly accommodations in the area include the charming Porcupine Lodge (www. theporcupine.com) in Saranac Lake, and the tidy and affordable Shamrock Motel & Cottages (www. shamrockmotellonglake. com) on the shores of Long Lake. Farther south in the village of Chestertown, Fern Lodge (www.thefernlodge.com) is an intimate B&B with spacious,

see NEW YORK page 23

Celebrating 38 Years!

•TAPAS •PASTA •PAELLA •COCKTAILS Late Night Dining Full Menu Tues.-Thurs. 5:30 to 11:30; Fri. & Sat. 5:00 to 1:00; Sun. 5:00 to 10:00; Mon.- Closed 2366 Eastlake Ave. E 206.324.3160 www.pomodoro.net Free Garage Parking

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Celebrating 38 Years!

by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer

GETTING TO BRUSSELS A few nonstop flights to Europe are offered year-round and seasonally from Seattle, allowing for quick connections to Brussels through Paris, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, or London. Another option is to fly American Airlines (www.aa.com) all the way to Belgium, with a short layover at New York’s JFK Airport. Since 1993, when it first added sexual orientation to its workplace non-discrimination policies, Dallas-based American has come out swinging for its LGBT employees. In addition to a long list of workplace protections, the company sponsors an LGBT resource group (GLEAM), the first of its kind in the airline industry, to help

STAYING IN BRUSSELS Across a small plaza from the Brussels-Central station is Le Méridien (www.lemeridienbrussels.com), within walking distance to the city’s central square, known as the GrandPlace – as well as to numerous Gay bars. The hotel’s immaculate semirotunda lobby greets you upon arrival with splendid views of nearby cathedrals and courtyards. A few steps from the reception desk is a business center with three hard-wired computer stations providing complimentary Internet access (inquire about WiFi). On the other end is the Hub, where guests can mingle while sipping cocktails from the hotel’s Longitude Bar. Rooms are accented in a sophisticated fashion, with powder-blue carpeting and long, sweeping yellow drapes, with the usual amenities (flat-screen TV, work desk, in-room coffee kit,

etc.) and a terrific signature line of lotions, shampoos, and other bath essentials. Le Méridien is great for both leisure and business travelers, and it accommodated many LGBT visitors during Belgium Pride last month. (The hotel

The Atomium

brand is part of the Starwood Preferred Guest program, for those collecting rewards points.)

Opened in early May, Hotel Saint-Gery (www.hotelstgery.com) is a boutique property with just 24 rooms on 4 floors. Its location – perfectly nestled in Brussels’ main entertainment artery – couldn’t be better.

This area is flooded with packed bars, restaurants, and live music venues most nights of the week, and the Gay quarter is a 5- to 7-minute stroll.

Hotel Saint-Gery is very modern, even by American standards. A former love hotel, rooms are about the size of a college dorm – mainly studios with side-

by-side twin beds (very European) and a stripped-down, visually artistic feel. My room, on the fourth level, had skylight windows that opened to let in fresh air.

Each room has a separate commode and shower (or bathtub), and contemporary sink basins with a minimal array of bath amenities. The minifridge with complimentary beer, water, and soda was a wonderful touch. Overall, Hotel Saint-Gery’s proximity to Brussels’ top attractions and lively entertainment scene makes it the envied new kid on the block.

LEO

Brussels is not Paris, and neither does it try to be. Residents here are proud of their city, yet they’re not boastful about it. I found the Belgian capital subtle and charming, but it does come to life at night with partygoers squeezing into dozens of Gay bars (and drinking outside of them as well – Brussels allows alcohol consumption in public).

The city proper is home to 145,000 people, but the surrounding districts easily put the metro population over 1 million.

If you’re staying in the downtown sector, you won’t even need public transit for the most part – just about everything is walkable. This is how I suggest filling in your Brussels itinerary.

advance the company’s relationship with the community. In 2005, American was the first airline to establish a Web page for LGBT travelers (www.aa.com/rainbow).

Flight time between Seattle and New York is around 5.5 hours, and then it’s another 7.5 to 8 hours to Brussels. Getting into the city from the airport is a cinch by rail.

The airport’s underground station is easily accessed by elevator, and trains to the Brussels-Central railway station run frequently.

The fare is EU5.40 oneway, and it’s a 30-minute trek.

GAY CULTURE/ NIGHTLIFE Brussels is one of the most liberal-minded cities in Europe, so LGBT travelers should feel safe in all neighborhoods and in most businesses. In fact, Belgium was the second country in the entire world to legalize same-sex marriage. Several weeks ago, Brussels played host to Belgian Pride, which attracted a record 70,000 people to the Saturday afternoon parade. The “Gay village” is wedged between downtown and the Grand-Place with a stream of Gay bars along Rue Marché au Charbon, among them the rustic-style Le Belgica (www.lebelgica.be) and the more nouveau Le Boys Boudoir (www.leboysboudoir.be). Up the street are a few more to consider, all quite popular – Le Baroque (www.barlebaroque.be), Le Plattesteen (www.facebook.com/pages/Le-Plattesteen), and Dolores (40 Rue Marché au Charbon, no website). Fairly close by is Chez Maman (www.chezmaman. be), a two-story club owned by its wellknown proprietor Maman, who razzles and dazzles with weekly drag shows in the dungeon-like lower bar. On the night I visited, the performance began with the Dynasty theme blaring over the sound system.

My favorite Brussels Gay bar is one that’s slightly off the grid, You Night Club (www.leyou.be). Intimate and cozy, this is where trendsetters hang out see BRUSSELS page 14

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Seattle Gay News 11

by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer

STAY The Westin Portland (www.westinportland.com) ain’t no ordinary Westin, thanks to a recent $6.5 million renovation. Located downtown a mere 10-minute walk from Union Station, the hotel is home to 50 newly installed fine art pieces, including a signed etching by Picasso.

A posh lobby with four complimentary built-in iPad stations is a good starting point for a night on the town, especially with the happy-hour specials at the onpremise restaurant, Daily Grill. Nestled in a corner of the lobby is a beautiful li-

the chain’s exclusive line of bath amenities.

Interior features include sturdy work desks with accompanying maize-colored chairs, large windows with chocolate-toned drapes, generous-sized bathrooms with see-through glass showers, and slick wooden dressers with slide-out drawers. The Westin Portland has a 24-hour fitness center for those needing a morning workout, and seven dedicated Starwood Preferred Guest floors (inquire at www.starwoodhotels.com).

The Jupiter Hotel (www.jupiterhotel. com), just over the Burnside Bridge from

Barely a year old, the Crystal Hotel downtown, may be the city’s Gay-friendliest resting quarters. A longtime host and (www.mcmenamins.com/CrystalHotel) sponsor of LGBT events ranging from PDX is literally within crawling distance of Pride to Latino Pride to Portland Leather Portland’s busiest Gay bars. Once a bathhouse (among other things), this building now boasts 51 rooms on three floors, each room uniquely designed in homage to a legendary musician or song. Part of the McMenamins family of drinking and lodging establishments, the Crystal Hotel sparkles with freshly carpeted stairwells, vintage framed photographs of the building’s previous lives, and a sub-level soaking pool. This aside from a full-service restaurant (Zeus Cafe) and a downstairs watering hole (Al’s Den), a replica of an authentic English pub, where live entertainment is frequently booked. Up the street is another McMenamins jewel, the Crystal Ballroom, where artists like Gotye and Franz Ferdinand have performed and where a limited number of tickets are reserved for Crystal Hotel guests. So if there’s a sold-out show you’re dying to see at the Ballroom, you might squeeze in by booking a room at the hotel. Speaking of rooms, they start at $85. “King” accommodations come with private bathroom, while “Queen” overnighters share facilities on each floor.

TRAVEL PORTLAND

brary that provides a quieter environment to read or simply unwind. Rooms are elegantly furnished with all the essentials, There’s something happening in Port- like Westin’s signature “heavenly beds” and land. Usually sedate and humble, it’s now ruffling its feathers and demanding attention. Everywhere you look in the Rose City, a new business or fresh retail concept is being plotted. From stylish restaurants to independent coffee shops to highend men’s clothing boutiques – all opened recently – Portland is reinventing itself.

Amtrak (www.amtrak.com) offers multiple daily trains between Seattle and Portland at reasonable rates, and Alaska/ Horizon (www.alaskaair.com) has several flights per day to the Rose City from SeaTac for those wanting an expedited journey. A newer option is the Bolt Bus (www.boltbus.com), which offers express service to Portland aboard charter-type coaches with free WiFi. Events on the horizon include the Waterfront Blues Festival (July 4-8), Oregon Brewers Festival (July 26-29), and MusicfestNW (September 5-9), yet any time of the year is great for a dash to our Northwestern sister city.

Go to www.travelportland.com for more trip ideas. Here’s what I discovered on my latest visit.

Alliance workshops, the Jupiter truly lives up to its slogan, “Keep Portland Queer.” The cool motor-lodge vibe, the basement-level concert venue (Doug Fir Lounge), and the upstairs restaurant of the same name attract all types of folks every night of the week.

Its 81 rooms include one inspired by SpiderMan and another by John Lennon. Recently added to the Jupiter are Zipcar parking stalls and a vending machine arcade, beside a relocated and nifty reception area. Rates are always, and I do mean always, affordable at the Jupiter.

EAT Seattle is the Northwest champion in terms of the sheer number of world-class chefs, though some would argue that Portland, pound for pound, is the region’s real kitchen powerhouse. Perhaps they’re even. But when it comes to great inexpensive comfort food, I tip my hat to the Rose City. Case in point: Pine State Biscuits (www.pinestatebiscuits.com). Launched at the Portland Farmers’ Market six years ago, this local favorite now has two permanent locations to please its many fans. Just about everything is made from

TRAVEL PORTLAND

Portland, Oregon

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June 15, 2012

Celebrating 38 Years!

scratch, from the buttery biscuits to the shitake mushroom gravy. All items are under $10 and you can easily make a meal of any of their famous biscuit sandwiches, such as the Chicken Club (fried chicken, bacon, iceberg lettuce, and tomato, with choice of bleu cheese or ranch dressing) going for $8, or the Moneyball (one egg with choice of gravy) for just $7. Both shops are open daily from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., and the Alberta Street store in Northeast Portland is also open 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Another cheap eat to put on your list is the Grilled Cheese Grill (www.grilledcheesegrill.com), with two locations. One of them, the School Bus diner on Alberta Street, is the craziest thing ever, a kitschy decorated bus with grade-school photos and bus seats turned into booths. The other is a likewise tricked-out double-decker bus.

But don’t let the wacky surroundings fool you – the sandwiches here are delicious and filling. The Baby Cheesus (1/3 lb. burger, American and Colby Jack cheese, lettuce, tomato, mustard, and ketchup) was enough to carry me through lunch the next day. I can’t imagine what the daddy of these gooey inventions, The Original Cheesus, would do to me. For early risers, their breakfast menu offers the Big Huevo (Tillamook pepper jack cheese, egg, jalapenos, avocado, and red onion).

I’m not convinced that newcomer Oven and Shaker (www.ovenandshaker.com) has the best pizza in town, yet they do get an “A” for effort. Situated in the lively Pearl District, this polished pizzeria takes a gutsy approach to the beloved pie, utilizing toppings like fried sage, nettles, Mama Lil’s peppers, cauliflower, honey, collard greens, and almonds. Oven and Shaker’s pizzas were hit-or-miss for me, though the sides, notably the Tuscan potatoes served with a fabulous aioli, were consistently delicious.

Perhaps a better recommendation for most pizza lovers, and one that sells by the slice, is Sizzle Pie (www.sizzlepie.com). Straddling downtown and the Pearl District, this rock‘n’roll-style eatery takes few risks and instead focuses on familiar ingredients.

With catchy pie names – the Six Inches of Kevin Bacon, the Holy Diver, the Ol’ Dirty, the Good Luck in Jail – and a retro jukebox with jammin’ tunes, plus vegetarian and vegan choices, this has “late night bite” written all over it.

their own espresso syrups. My iced vanilla latte, delivered in a mason jar with giant ice cubes and swirling coffee grounds, was really tasty. Courier gets kudos, too, for its old-school LP record player and its friendly, talkative staff. In the revitalized Central East neighborhood, across the Willamette River near the Jupiter Hotel, is Water Avenue Coffee (www.wateravenuecoffee.com).

This hometown roaster operates in a larger space than Courier, yet the atmosphere is equally communal. If hot chocolate is more your style than coffee, try a cup of it at Cacao (www.cacaodrinkchocolate.com). Cacao also offers its own candy bars, as well as premier chocolate from around the world, at both of its two stores.

SHOP Move over Nordstrom and Saks – men seeking fashionable threads in Portland now have alternatives, thanks to a slew of boutique retailers lining up in a sliver of down-

town called the West End. In the new Black Box Building, local merchandisers Tanner Goods (www.tannergoods.com) and The Woodlands (www.woodlandsshop.com) are updating the Northwest outdoorsman look with a tailored, finer, and sexier selection of clothes and accessories. The former of the two sells handcrafted belts, wallets, tethers, and sunglass cases, plus buckles, belt pins, natural soap, and writing notebooks. The latter has a sharp assortment of denim, casual and dress shirts, knitted hats, and mountain boots. Mere steps away is Animal Traffic (www.animaltraffic.tumblr.com), carrying vintage sweaters, trousers, T-shirts, and other items.

John Fluevog’s year-old renovated space (www.fluevog.com) is big and fun, highlighted by a car as part of its interior décor.

The flagship UnderU4Men store (www.underu4men.com) is now open in its new location and features a barbershop, day spa, DJ station, and expanded sales floor. And, for

knickknacks such as flashy tote bags, musically themed coasters, costume jewelry, and flasks with beer logos, look no further than Tender Loving Empire (www.tenderlovingempire.com). It is here, at this kitschy little boutique, where my Portland journey began and ended. Which reminds me of another cool Portland perk: No sales tax in Oregon!

DRINK When it comes to cocktailing in Portland, there are abundant options. Besides the tried and true Gay bars (Silverado, CC Slaughter’s, Red Car Garage), a few congregating spots outside the norm have sprouted. Gay men and a mixed hipster set are regulars at Departure (www.thenines.com/departurerestaurant). This swanky place atop luxury hotel The Nines is hard to pass up on sunny afternoons, as it provides magnificent views from its patio. Happy hour has a daily selection of beers, wines, and other beverages for only $5 to $6, while the irresistible appetizers peak at just $8. Highly suggested from celebrated chef Greg Gourdet’s kitchen are his signature Departure Wings or his outstanding sushi rolls, while the coconut pearl tapioca is unusually refreshing. Also drawing a Gay/straight crowd is Dig a Pony (www.digaponyportland.com), where DJs spin everything from ’80s new wave to trash blues, depending on the night you swing by. Window booths, a circular bar, and bare floors add to the lounge’s rustic ambiance. Dig a Pony is not be confused with Glo Pony, a Gay event at Rotture (www. rotture.com), a live music venue in the Lower Southeast district. It will host “BMP/ Grind,” a Queer genre-bending ’90s party, on PDX Pride weekend.

For non-imbibers, the Rose City has a bevy of cool coffee shops to socialize and surf the Web in. Courier Coffee (www. couriercoffeeroasters.com) not only serves its self-roasted product at their teeny downtown shop, but they also bake a limited amount of fresh pastries in-house and create

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Seattle Gay News 13

FILE PHO TO

building COUR TESY DELT A VICTO

British Columbia legislative

RIA OCEA N POIN TE RESO RT

The view from the Delta Victoria

by James Whitely SGN Staff Writer

Ocean Pointe Resort

Victoria isn’t as far away as you might think. The capital of British Columbia is farther south, and much closer to the Emerald City, than Vancouver. To get there you have to go by boat, but hey – that’s part of the fun of going.

Your two main options for getting to Victoria are to either first drive to Port Angeles and take the Coho ferry from there, or take a direct maritime route from Seattle aboard the Victoria Clipper. If you want or need your car with you in Canada, Port Angeles is the way to go. Not to mention that this will also give you the opportunity to visit Port Townsend, a city known for its many well-preserved Victorian-era buildings.

Named in honor of Queen Victoria, the city was the epicenter of British Columbia until 1886, when the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway brought massive commercial opportunities to Vancouver.

Victoria then began cultivating an image as a refined destination – one that it maintains to this day.

Not everyone can afford to stay at Victoria’s signature hotel, the Empress. Located right downtown, the Bedford Regency has some nice amenities like jetted tubs and fireplaces, but the service left much to be desired for my partner and me. In fact, our only positive customer-service experience was a housekeeping woman who was kind enough to shoo a giant wasp out of our room.

Whether you’re traveling for business or pleasure in Victoria (but especially for business), the Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort is one of the finest hotels in the city.

A modern alternative to the Empress, the Ocean Pointe offers in-room mini-bars, a 24-hour gym, racquetball courts, a pool and hot tub with poolside cocktail service in the summer, lots of spa services, a private dock where you can catch a water taxi across the bay, and some of the friendliest hotel staff in the city (trust me on this).

The hotel bar hosts live entertainment on Fridays and Saturdays, and their bartender Dirk won the 2010 title for best bartender in the Northwest. In the full-service spa you can sip wine or champagne while you look

14 Seattle Gay News

June 15, 2012

out at the water.

For the business traveler, the Delta chain offers the fastest Internet service of any hotel in Canada and their own unique “SmartDesk.” Plug in your laptop and project it onto the plasma TV with 3.5mm audio connections and a bunch of other features.

If you want to start your day with a mimosa, Lady Marmalade (898 Queen St. E.) is your kind of place. Not only do they serve breakfast anytime, but their menu is eclectic, featuring savory waffles, a large selection of Benedicts, and a poutine with miso gravy. They use local ingredients and their drinks are strong. Don’t miss out.

Victoria is known for its buskers. Most of them perform in or around the inner harbor in front of the Empress, especially during summer. Acts you might see include fire spinners, jugglers, and Darth Vader playing the violin – terribly.

If you find yourself in need of some new clothes while in Victoria (maybe Lady Marmalade’s mimosas were too strong and you

spilled, eh?) stop in to Le Château at the Bay Centre Mall downtown (1150 Douglas St.). With both men’s and women’s formal/ evening wear, this Canadian line offers some sweet looks you simply can’t find in the states (although they do apparently have two stores in New York). Le Château isn’t cheap, but looking really good seldom is, and this place is definitely worth a look.

Also, for the ladies, a new La Senza is opening up in the mall soon.

Not far from the mall is Victoria’s Chinatown. Although much smaller than Seattle’s International District, this neighborhood offers a very different perspective on Chinese immigration to North America in the late 1800s and early 1900s. If you look hard enough, in just a few short blocks you can see little pieces of history scattered through the shops and the streets, and a uniquely Canadian story unfolds.

For a relaxed and refined weekend getaway that’s close to Seattle, Victoria is hard to beat. Victoria, je t’aime!

BRUSSELS

tric atmosphere. Finally, one might not think “Thai food” in Belgium, but when in continued from page 11 Brussels sprint to Les Larmes du Tigre (www.leslarmesdutigre.be), a snazzy little joint that offers an all-you-can-eat buffet Sunday nights for “You Gay Tea Dance.” with green curry, chicken skewers, spicy A clean interior with velvety upholstered noodles, fried and steamed rice, and delibooths, hardwood dance floor, charming cious bite-sized desserts. bar counter, and random tunes from Lykke Li, Madonna, Gotye, and Empire of the THINGS TO SEE AND DO Sun, this place seemed ideal to close out a The No. 1 tourist attraction in Brussels is spectacular weekend. Dress to impress. One the aforementioned Grand-Place, a plaza final suggestion for Gay events is La De- in the heart of the city, which is often shown mence (www.lademence.com), which hosts in postcards. It’s here that the famed “flower monthly parties in and around Brussels as carpet” is displayed every other year. This well as Gay cruises.

UNESCO World Heritage Site is also where much government business is conducted.

DINING Another top destination is the Atomium in Before I departed for Belgium, everyone the Heysel district. Constructed for Expo told me to “eat pomme frites.” I did, and ’58 and seen on The Amazing Race, this loved them. But Brussels is a culinary ha- giant steel structure stands 335 feet tall. ven, and some of the best food here is pota- It looks like a winning science fair projto-free. La Brasserie De Bruxelles (www. ect with nine enormous spheres, each with labrasseriedebruxelles.be) won my heart some kind of observation area, and at the with a vol au vent that was creamy, hearty, very top is a restaurant. If you’re pressed for and loaded with chicken and mushrooms time, take the metro to the Heysel station topped with a puff pastry (think decon- and take photos of the Atomium on the long structed chicken pot pie). The restaurant’s stretch of lawn in front of it. setting is chic, yet not a bit pretentious.

Brussels is known for incredible museResto Henri (www.restohenri.be) served an ums, such as the Musee Magritte (www. excellent steak with a traditional Béarnaise musee-magritte-museum.be), the Musical sauce, and their apple crumble for dessert Instruments Museum (www.mim.be), the was orgasmic. This restaurant had an easy- BELvue Museum (www.belvue.be) and the going, casual vibe and the raised bar coun- fun-for-all Belgian Comic Strip Center ter was really inviting. Royal Brasserie (www.comicscenter.net). If you’re on the Brussels (www.royalbrasseriebrussels.be), hunt for mementos, the Galeries Royales a two-minute walk from Restro Henri, has Saint-Hubert (www.galeries-saint-hubert. a sleek, ample dining room with spiral bar be) is lined with bistros, chocolate shops, and high-rise chairs. The mushroom risotto and bookstores. Speaking of Belgian chocohad excellent texture and lots of flavor. late, retail boutiques selling these iconic edAcross town, the Smets fashion store ibles are located throughout the city, rang(www.smets.lu/en/stores/brussels) is a ing from expensive (Marcolini, Godiva) to high-end shoppers’ paradise with men’s and moderate (Neuhaus) to affordable (Leoniwomen’s departments chock full of major das). Many chocolate shops can also be designer wear. While you’re there, head to found at the Brussels airport, making for a the top floor for a great meal or cocktail at sweet last stop on your way out of Belgium. the lush Bowery, where you’ll find WarholFor trip-planning information, go to like artwork on colorful walls and an elec- www.visitbrussels.com.

Celebrating 38 Years!

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June 15, 2012

Seattle Gay News 15

by Andrew Collins SGN Contributing Writer

/M OT T

LL IN S

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staurant & Ba

Ten Tables Re

downstairs dining room you’ll find more elaborate options, like lobster risotto with roasted-butternut squash.

In a light and airy yellow house in the West End, Victor’s serves deftly prepared modern American cuisine, including some of the best breakfast fare in town. Cute and

June 15, 2012

CHRISTOPHER SEUFERT PHOTOGRAPHY

Sunset on Cape Cod

16 Seattle Gay News

TIM GR AF FT

inviting Devon’s is another great option, offers up fresh bountiful dinner salads, both for breakfast and dinner, serving such seafood pastas, and other casual but wellinternationally inspired victuals as lemon- executed meals at reasonable prices. It’s a chicken tagine with almondfavorite with locals.

For lighter noshing, Aquarium Marketplace is home to several good take-out spots, including Big Daddy’s Burritos, Batata (which serves Belgian-inspired treats like super-crisp fries with unusual dipping sauces, and addictive short-rib sliders), and the fabulous Aqua Bar, which has seating overlooking Provincetown Harbor and serves exceptional seafood and cocktails. Frappo66, beside Art House Cinema, serves healthy, world-beat cuisine including seared tuna tataki, and warm Street Commercial and welcoming Cafe Heaven is a top spot for decaapricot-green-olive dent breakfast fare. For late-night postcouscous in the eve- bar noshing, head for Spiritus Pizza, a ning, and hearty Por- longtime tradition for people-watching. tuguese omelets to You can check your e-mail and perk up start the day. with a cup of potent java at Wired Puppy In an intimate sec- coffeehouse. And be sure to stop by the ond-floor space with Provincetown Portuguese Bakery to stunning harbor sample the delicious meat pies, pastries, views, Ross’s Grill rolls, and breads. earns kudos for its When it comes time to trade in your well-chosen wine knife and fork for a mug of beer or an list, tantalizing icy cocktail, head for historic Atlantic raw bar, and in- House (aka A-House), which contains ventive American both a hopping Gay bar and a disco. cuisine. For au- The other big player in town, noted for thentic Mexican its pulsing weekend circuit parties, is food head to Lor- the Crown & Anchor, which also has a raine’s, where festive video lounge and a cruisy leather crab enchiladas bar. The Gifford House hotel is home to and roasted duck Purgatory, a small, sexually charged star on the menu. basement dance club. In the East End, Right on the wa- check out the Lesbian-oriented Vixen, ter in the East an attractive bar and dance floor with live End, Fanizzi AN DR EW CO

There’s nothing quite like late spring in Provincetown, when seasonal businesses have all completed their refurbishments and new paint jobs, and the loyal fans of this idyllic resort town at the tip of Cape Cod begin migrating back in – a steady trickle in May and June, followed by a flood in July and August.

If you’re more about quiet beach strolls and enjoying the camaraderie of fellow travelers without overpowering crowds – or just want to save a little money – plan a trip here in spring, or wait until the beautiful autumnal months of September and October. If you’re more about partying and hobnobbing, head here in summer – just keep in mind that room rates are at their peak, as are waits for restaurant tables. And many hotels and inns require minimum stays of three to as many as seven nights during this period.

Be aware, too, that Provincetown has a number of fun yearly events that draw big crowds, from Carnival to Holly Folly to Cabaret Fest. You can view the full rundown at the excellent Provincetown Business Guild website (www.ptown.org), which also gives comprehensive lists of attractions, lodgings, bars, restaurants, shops, galleries, and more, all geared to the LGBT traveler.

At whatever time you come, here are some key Provincetown (w w w. p t o w n ch a mb e r.c om) recommendations on where to sample delicious food, mingle with friends at bars, and snuggle up in bed for the night.

A couple of terrific restaurants opened in Provincetown last season and immediately began earning raves. In an elegant Victorian mansion, Dalla Cucina serves artfully plated fine Italian fare – it was named Best Italian Restaurant in New England in 2011

by Yankee magazine. The other new-ish notable is Ten Tables, which has older branches in Cambridge and Boston’s LGBT-popular Jamaica Plain neighborhood.

This intimate, romantic eatery sources ingredients from local fishermen and from its own garden. Chef-owner Krista Kranyak dazzles diners with creative dishes like braised pork shank with grilled romaine, sunchokes, and orange.

L ong-r unning P-town favorites are still turning out terrific food, including the uberromantic, rather fancy Red Inn, which occupies a beautiful 19thcentury house in the West End and serves firstrate coastal New England fare, and the informally elegant Mews, which offers great live entertainment as well as tasty food.

The casual upstairs bistro has lighter fare (burgers, salads, etc.), and in the

Celebrating 38 Years!

shows on many nights.

All summer long, posers and party creatures mingle and cruise during the Boatslip’s legendary tea dances. The crowd usually moves on to the Pied Piper, which has a small but fun dance floor, off of which is one of the loveliest decks in town, a great spot to watch the sun sink over the bay. Bayside Betsy’s is a wonderfully dishy spot for early evening cocktails, and the Monkey Bar is an enjoyable place to sip martinis and watch the world go by. Fans of the grape should check out Joonbar, a natty wine boîte with a mixed clientele, while Nor’East Beer Garden is a cool open-air hangout with an exceptional selection of interesting ales.

Provincetown has more than 70 inns and guest houses with a Gay following, most of them welcoming a mix of men and women, Gay and straight (the breakdown of clientele typically varies throughout the year). Arguably the town’s premier accommodation, the superbly sumptuous 40-room Crowne Pointe (www.crownepointe.com), occupies a regal setting on a bluff in the center of town. Cushy in-room amenities abound: pima-cotton bathrobes, gas fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, TVs with DVD players. The inn’s stunning Shui Spa is a top-notch facility with a professional yet low-key staff, and the inn’s restaurant serves tantalizingly good contemporary American fare.

The team behind Crowne Pointe also runs the exceptional Brass Key (www.brasskey. com), which was the first Provincetown guest house to offer a level of service and amenities comparable to a world-class luxury hotel, and this splendid resort still excels in every category. The staff at hip and cozy Somerset House Inn (www.somersethouseinn.com) has set the standard in Provincetown when it comes to hospitality, capturing the chic ambience of an urbane boutique hotel with its mod furnishings, L’Occitane bath amenities, and plush beds with luxuriant linens. The Lesbian-owned Inn at Cook Street (www.innatcookstreet. com) is a handsome, smartly furnished Greek Revival house and two cottages on a quiet block on the East End – ideal for a peaceful getaway.

One of the best addresses for Gay guesthouses is Johnson Street, home to the reasonably priced, attractively furnished Christopher’s by the Bay, which occupies a towering Victorian house with a lush and cheerful patio in back. Proprietors Dave and Jim are two of the nicest and most helpful innkeepers in town. Across the street, the sleek and stylish White Porch Inn (www. whiteporchinn.com) contains nine natty guestrooms named for Cape Cod lighthouses. Each unit has a flat-screen TV with DVD player and an mp3 dock, and some have deep tubs and fireplaces. Just a few doors down, the similarly romantic Carpe Diem (www.carpediemguesthouse.com) is sophisticated yet social, with rooms named for famous poets and writers, from Rilke to Cocteau.

And that’s just the tip of the iceberg.

You’ll find countless other great properties around town – the cheap and cheerful Heritage House (www.heritageh.com), ideal if you don’t mind shared baths; the sumptuous Benchmark Inn (www.benchmarkinn. com), a Greek Revival beauty with sunfilled rooms; the friendly and moderately priced Ampersand Guesthouse (www.ampersandguesthouse.com), nestled in the quiet West End; and the tranquil Secret Garden Inn (www.secretgardenptown.com), set down a narrow alley off Commercial Street and surrounded by fragrant gardens and red-brick patios.

Andrew Collins covers Gay travel for the New York Times-owned website GayTravel.About.com and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA. He can be reached in care of SGN or at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com.

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June 15, 2012

Seattle Gay News 17

MEMPHIS/ NASHVILLE

continued from page 5 hood bars, clustered mostly around the 1300 to 1500 blocks of Madison and Poplar avenues. These include the Pumping Station (www.pumpingstationmemphis.com), the Lesbian-popular Dru’s Place (www.drusplace.com), and the Crossroads Bar. Many visitors to Memphis would never think of staying anywhere but that downtown grande dame, the aforementioned Peabody Hotel (www.peabodymemphis. com), which has luxurious rooms, a fine spa and fitness center, and a lobby in which ducks famously parade to and from a gur-

gling fountain each day. A more intimate but no less pleasing option is the River Inn of Harbor Town (www.riverinnmemphis. com), a charming 28-room property on pretty (don’t let the name fool you) Mud Island, just a short drive from downtown.

Other reliable options include the Gayfriendly Talbot Heirs Guesthouse (www. talbotheirs.com), the smartly furnished and centrally located Westin Memphis (www. westinmemphisbealestreet.com), and the reasonably priced Hampton Inn at Beale Street (www.hamptoninn.com).

destinations over the past decade, as it now buzzes with diverting retail and entertainment districts, several energetic Gay nightspots, and a wealth of cultural attractions.

Downtown Nashville is set around the courtly Greek Revival-style Capitol building, which is perched atop the highest hill in the city. You can learn a thing or two about the state’s history at the nearby Tennessee State Museum. A block over, 5th Avenue was the site throughout the 1960s of civil rights demonstrations, the success of which inspired similar protests throughout the South. These days, 5th Avenue has become NASHVILLE rather artsy – it’s the site of several excellent Perhaps the most progressive city in the galleries and the nearby Frist Center for so-called Bible Belt, Nashville has devel- the Visual Arts, which occupies a handoped into one of the South’s Gay-friendliest somely restored, art-deco post office build-

 Broadway 

Farmers Market 18 Seattle Gay News

June 15, 2012

ing.

A few blocks east, toward the Cumberland River, you’ll come to Nashville’s old Market Street, now 2nd Avenue, where a long row of red-brick Victorian warehouses have been converted into restaurants, music clubs, and brew pubs. Downtown’s most impressive attraction is the Country Music Hall of Fame, whose exhibits honor dozens of legendary musicians (Patsy Cline, Johnny Cash, and Dolly Parton among them).

The nearby Ryman Auditorium is one of the music icons of downtown, often hosting Grand Ole Opry shows.

It’s a short drive from downtown to reach Midtown and its main drag, West End Avenue – you’ll pass several of the city’s schools and medical facilities, including Vanderbilt

Broadway & E. Pine at Seattle Central Community College Sundays, 11am - 3pm, April 22 - Dec 23.

Celebrating 38 Years!

University, as well as an art-filled, full-scale replica of the Parthenon. A few blocks from here is the city’s Gay nightlife strip, along Church Street. West End Avenue eventually leads into ritzy Belle Meade, home to Belle Meade Plantation, once the site of a 5,300acre Thoroughbred breeding farm, and Cheekwood, a 1925 Georgian-style house that’s home to the Tennessee Botanical Gardens & Museum.

Nashville’s dining scene is earning major kudos these days. Downtown has plenty of options, from long-running Merchants (www.merchantsrestaurant.com), which is set inside a masterfully restored 1892 brick building, to trendy Watermark (www.watermark-restaurant.com), which offers the most extensive wine list in the city. But it’s best to venture a bit outside of downtown for some of the most interesting and Gaypopular dining. The hip 12th Avenue South neighborhood is a great food destination, home to Burger Up (www.burger-up.com), known for bison, lamb, and salmon burgers; and Las Paletas, which serves refreshing and oddly flavored popsicles (chai tea, cucumber-pepper, and chocolate-wasabi, to name a few).

East Nashville is another cool neighborhood for eating and exploring. It’s home to Lesbian-owned Margot (www.margotcafe. com), which turns out delicious French bistro fare. The same owners run the nearby coffeehouse and bakery, Marche (www. marcheartisanfoods.com), which serves up all sorts of tasty snacks. The inviting Rumours Wine Bar (www.rumourseast.com) is great for sipping and dining, and Ugly Mugs (www.uglymugsnashville.com) is a terrific coffeehouse.

For Gay nightlife, head to Church Street in the West End. Arguably the neighborhood’s hottest Gay bar, Tribe (www.tribenashville.com) is a hip spot with a full restaurant, an open-air deck, and a decentsize dance floor. If you’re seeking a more high-energy experience, venture next door to Play (www.playdancebar.com), a sprawling dance club that packs in huge crowds on weekends. Just down the street is Blue Gene’s, a relaxed neighborhood joint.

Over in East Nashville you’ll find one of the liveliest Lesbian bars in the South, the Lipstick Lounge (www.thelipsticklounge. com), set inside a brightly colored and attractively furnished old house. On the main level there’s a small dance bar, and live music is often featured. A couple of Gay neighborhood bars worth going out of your way for are Trax, a hard-to-find little dive in a somewhat industrial neighborhood south of downtown, and the nearby Stirrup (www. stirrupnashville.com), a warm and welcoming bar that caters to a diverse crowd.

Nashville’s hotel selection has become increasingly interesting over the years, thanks in part to the opening of the stylish and contemporary Hutton Hotel (www.huttonhotel.com), a couple of blocks from the West End Gay bars. It’s quickly become a

favorite address of visiting celebs and musicians. The nearby Hotel Indigo (www. hotelindigo.com) is a Gay-friendly, moderately priced, and sleekly designed mid-rise.

Another favorite of hip, design-minded travelers is the Hotel Preston (www.hotelpreston.com) – just keep in mind that it’s 10

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miles southeast of downtown, by the airport. If you’d rather be downtown, consider the gracious Union Station Hotel (www. unionstationhotelnashville.com), which adjoins turn-of-the-20th-century Union Station and has a gorgeous lobby and warmly furnished rooms.

Andrew Collins covers Gay travel for the New York Times-owned website GayTravel.About.com and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA. He can be reached in care of SGN or at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com.

June 15, 2012

Seattle Gay News 19

TOKYO

continued from the cover ment with noise-canceling headphones, and bathrooms with mood lighting. I found Delta’s in-flight service to be friendly and personal, and storage space was abundant.

(Alaska Airlines rewards members can accrue and redeem miles on all Delta flights.)

Upon arrival at Narita, you can take the JR (Japan Railways) Narita Express into Tokyo (2,940 yen) or the Limousine Bus (2,700-

20 Seattle Gay News

3,000 yen). By either method, it’s approxi- vocates (1F Dai-7 Tenka Bldg.), a cubbyhole mately an hour-long trek downtown from wedged into the corner of the main drag; the airport.

Arty Farty (2F 33 Kyutei Bldg.), a popular bar for dancing; GB (B1F Shinjuku Plaza GAY CULTURE/NIGHTLIFE Bldg.), a fun place to watch videos or sing Tokyo has multiple Gay enclaves, but the karaoke; or Dragon Men (1F Stork Nagareal center of LGBT life is Shinjuku Ni- saki), a good spot for cruising, schmoozing, chome. Here is where East meets West, lit- and listening to music. For something a bit erally. Locals wanting to congregate among edgier, try Dock (B1 Dai-2 Seiko Bldg.), themselves can do so in 300 bars scattered where you’ll be greeted with a “no pants” around this district, yet Japanese social dress code and a promiscuous dark room, butterflies who don’t mind the company of or stumble upon 24 Kaikan (www.juno.dti. foreigners will likely encounter them at Ad- ne.jp/kazuo24/english/english.htm), a seven-story sauna that caters to both locals and visitors. If you’re really in a frisky mood, go to King of College (www.kocnet.jp/english/ index.html), an escort service that delivers young Japanese men to your doorstep. They have a physical location with a bar, though you might be subject to a screening process and cover charge, plus mandatory drink purchases. Private rooms are available for a charge, should you feel more comfortable taking care of business there.

For non-drinkers, Cocolo (1F Daiichi Hayakawaya) is a Gay-friendly cafe to have dinner or dessert, as is Mamma Mia! (1F Shimazaki Bldg.). Elsewhere, Lumiere (across from Advocates) has all the essentials for an intimate evening, from Japanese adult DVDs to water bottles disguised as lube containers. Check and Pandora, nestled next to each other, also sell undergarments and adult items. There is a community resource center called Akta, but it caters mainly to locals with emphasis on HIV prevention and social workshops.

The Shinbashi district has about 40 Gay bars, including the Townhouse (6F Ginza Bldg.), which caters to locals but allows foreigners, if they can find it. Townhouse is one of the bigger drinking hubs I came across in Tokyo, and the ambiance is cordial and lively with a vast karaoke catalog.

Tokyo hosts two major Pride events annually. Tokyo Rainbow Pride was held in April, and a larger spectacle, Rainbow Pride, is scheduled for August 11. The latter is expected to draw close to 10,000 onlookers.

Oscar-winning film Lost in Translation. It is here at the Park Hyatt that a bored and lonely Charlotte (Scarlett Johansson) encounters the frumpy Bob (Bill Murray). The lounge scene where they first meet, as well as the indoor pool shots, press conference, and lobby and bedroom scenes were all done in the interior of this hotel. The Park Hyatt is an immaculate property that occupies the top 14 floors of the 52-story Shinjuku Park Tower and boasts 177 elegant rooms with the finest of amenities, not to mention unobstructed views of the city skyline. Teal carpeting, cream-colored walls, coffeetoned armchairs, and black-lacquered desks go well together in the Hyatt suites, and the in-room amenities, primarily bath products like natural loofahs and Aesop hair cleansers, outshine those of other hotels. Most of all, the service is impeccable. From the moment of arrival to the check-out process, it seems as if no one really matters but you.

The New York Grill is iconic on its own, a hotspot for sophisticated travelers and the local chic set with stunning views from the 52nd floor. The food here underwhelmed me, but the ambiance is worth the higherthan-usual bar tab. Live music every night of the week is complimentary to Park Hyatt guests and those who arrive by 8 p.m. Another signature feature of the hotel is their Club on the Park. A top-floor indoor pool and fitness center are free for all guests, while separate spas for men and women, with swanky relaxation areas and communal soaking pools, are slightly extra.

Another hotel option is the Keio Park Plaza (www.keioplaza.com), also in the Shinjuku district. This mammoth property – 423 rooms in two towers with more than 20 different restaurants and lounges – is a mainstay of American business travelers and domestic Japanese vacationers. Spacious rooms with all the expected Westernstyle amenities are nicely furnished and offer terrific views of nearby skyscrapers. A rooftop pool is open seasonally, but a wellequipped fitness center is available anytime.

Of the many restaurants on the premises, the Glass Court serves the best breakfast (commonly included with your stay), and HOTELS the concierge service provides excellent asTokyo has thousands of places to stay, sistance. from luxury Western-style and no-frills business hotels to traditional Japanese ryoSHOPPING kans (inns) to sleeping capsules and “love Hankyu Men’s (www.hankyu-dept.co.jp) hotels.” Whatever your budget, they’ve is a multi-level shopping complex exclugot it. If you have enough cushion in your sively for guys in the Ginza district. Calvin wallet, a stay at Park Hyatt Tokyo (www. Klein, Burberry, G-Star, Polo Ralph Lautokyo.park.hyatt.com) is an absolute must, ren, Coach, and Alexander McQueen are and it happens to be a favorite of Gay trav- among the high-end retailers taking resielers. This three-tower property is only 18 dence on the eight floors of this upscale mall years old, yet it has already earned iconic that opened its doors in November 2011. status, both as one of the world’s most styl- The top level is called the Refresh Court, ish hotels and for its co-starring role in the where men can spruce up with hair or nail

June 15, 2012

Celebrating 38 Years!

maintenance, foot treatments, and body care, or have a snack at the boutique eatery Fruit Gathering. For new threads at modest (for Japan) prices, go to one of the many Uniqlo stores (www.uniqlo.com), a Gapmeets-American Apparel retailer based in Japan that’s endorsed by every young hipster from Tokyo to Osaka and even by pro tennis player Kei Nishikori. For vintage or worn-in clothing, head to the Harajuku district, and specifically to Takeshita Street, for a succession of men’s used goods stores, including City Surfer, Berberjin, Hyu-Men, Sprout 2nd, and 3-Dam. These shops are a tad expensive, but two stores in particular, Golley’s American Used Clothing and

Bowl-O-Rama, have significantly lower prices. Harajaku, just one stop away from Shinjuku on the Yamanote transit line, is home to hundreds of retail boutiques that carry everything from costume jewelry to J-pop memorabilia to wild lingerie.

SIGHTSEEING/ PEOPLE-WATCHING You’ll have no problem filling your itinerary, as Tokyo has lots to see and do. Though much of it can be pricey, there is hope for those on a budget. The Metropolitan Government Building (www.metro.tokyo.jp) comprises identical twin towers, each with its own observation deck. Admission is free

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and the views are unparalleled. The South Observatory closes at 5:30 p.m. with the last elevator ride at 5, while the North Observatory stays open until 11 p.m. with the final elevator ride at 10:30. Another free sightseeing option is the Imperial Palace, situated along the perimeter of the Otemachi financial district. A reconstruction of the original 1590 castle, this palace is a historical landmark representing the legendary Edo period, when the Tokugawa shoguns were in power.

Starbucks owns some of the best stakeout points in the city, including a shop above the Tsutaya music store in Shibuya. The Shibuya Kosaten, or “scramble,” as the lo-

cals call it, has been featured in films such as Lost in Translation and Babel. It’s just outside the Shibuya train station, 3 stops from Shinjuku. There’s another Starbucks in Harajuku, right on the main drag, that’s perfect for watching passersby. From the Harajuku train station, walk directly ahead and through the long shopping alley, and at the end turn right. It’s next to the BowlO-Rama store. Speaking of the Shinjuku train station, more than three million people stream through it every day, making it a prime spot for crowd gazing. Lastly, the Yoyogi and Ueno districts both have magnificent public parks that lend themselves to great people-watching and photo-taking.

June 15, 2012

Seattle Gay News 21

 Broadway 

Farmers Market 22 Seattle Gay News

June 15, 2012

Broadway & E. Pine at Seattle Central Community College Sundays, 11am - 3pm, April 22 - Dec 23.

Celebrating 38 Years!

NEW YORK

continued from page 8 statlerhotel.cornell.edu) and a full resort experience at La Tourelle Resort and Spa (www.latourelle.com), which has a very good spa as well as the excellent Simply Red Bistro and John Thomas Steakhouse.

Quirkier, more distinctive inns proliferate in these parts, including a few romantic Gay-owned options: the sumptuous, artfilled Juniper Hill B&B (www.atjuniperhill.com) in Trumansburg; the John Morris Manor (www.johnmorrismanor.com), overlooking the northern end of Cayuga Lake in Seneca Falls; the Black Walnut B&B (www.blackwalnutny.com), which dates to 1804; and the Greek Revival Hillcrest Manor (www.corninghillcrestmanor. com) in Corning. In downtown Ithaca, the Gay-friendly, Queen Anne-style William Henry Miller Inn (www.millerinn.com) is another great option.

ROCHESTER More than any other city in upstate New York, the urbane educational and business hub of Rochester (www.visitrochester.com) has long cultivated a progressive bent. Women’s suffragist pioneer Susan B. Anthony lived here (her house on Madison Street is now a museum), and a strong corporate presence (including Kodak, Xerox, and Bausch & Lomb) continues to support a robust arts scene.

Rochester’s must-see attraction, the George Eastman House International Museum of Photography and Film, contains a trove of exhibits related to the history of photography and presents intriguing rotating shows. Other enjoyable diversions include the University of Rochester Memorial Art Gallery and the Rochester Museum & Science Center.

For a relatively small city, Rochester supports a highly sophisticated dining scene that complements that of the nearby Finger Lakes – wine lists feature plenty of local

wines, and many chefs in these parts favor regional ingredients. Foodies shouldn’t miss the Rochester Public Market, which features not only gorgeous produce but also a handful of inexpensive eateries. In the trendy Atlantic-University neighborhood, both Lento and Gay-owned Edibles earn acclaim for inventive cooking and lively ambience, as do nearby spots like Mise en Place in the up-and-coming South Wedge district and Cafe Cibon in the hip Park Avenue area. You’ll also find LGBT folks sipping java at Equal Grounds Coffee House in South Wedge and at Java’s Cafe downtown by the Eastman Theatre.

For Gay nightlife, 140 Alex is popular with college students and younger sceney sorts, and Tilt Nightclub revs up for dancing on weekends. Elegant and fun mixed venues in South Wedge include Lux Lounge and Solera Wine Bar. More intimate neighborhood haunts include the Bachelor Forum and the Avenue Pub. The city has several Gay-friendly inns, among them the Edward Harris House (www.edwardharrishouse.com), in the historic East Avenue district, and the Ellwanger Estate (www.ellwangerestate. com), on beautiful grounds in the Mount Hope Preservation Garden neighborhood.

Downtown’s old-world Inn on Broadway (www.innonbroadway.com) is an elegant boutique property with stunning rooms.

Close to Eastman House, the Strathallan Hotel (www.strathallan.com) is a reasonably priced and comfortable option that’s undergoing a top-to-bottom renovation slated for completion this summer. Also consider the East Avenue Inn & Suites (www.theeastavenueinn.com), a formerly dated property that has undergone a major makeover.

E

xperience awe-inspiring views of Hood Canal, Mt Rainier, the snow-capped Olympic Mountains and prime shellfish beaches. Fresh oysters, clams, shrimp and crab; the shellfish Hood Canal is famous for. Make your reservation today and let us assist you in getting the perfect location for your next reunion, retreat or romantic getaway. Easy commute from Seattle , approx. 2 hours from Bainbridge ferry or one hour from Kingston ferry.

vacationhomesonhoodcanal.com 888.796.3450

Andrew Collins covers Gay travel for the New York Times-owned website GayTravel.About.com and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the USA. He can be reached care of this publication or at OutofTown@ qsyndicate.com.

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June 15, 2012

Seattle Gay News 23