SEOUL Magazine 2010 November

“The Steakhouse” “We feature finest Korean prime meats cut to our specification and aged over 21 days”

“Best burgers in Seoul Authentic all American-style burger restaurant with locations in Itaewon and Apgujeong” ITAEWON. 02) 795-9019 | ICHON. 02)792-9829 | APKUJUNG. 02) 518-9829 SEOUL STATION. 02)775-7055 | DAECHI. 02) 553-5633 | RAMADA. 02) 3789-3354 G.F.C TOWER(YEOKSAM STATION). 02) 2112-2988 | NOONSQUARE(MYEONG DONG) .02) 3783-4600

“Closest to Mexican taco in Korea!!”

Dosan Park

Moghul 1

Atelier Hermes Horim Art Center

Hamilton Hotel

n ectio ters an In Dos

Itaewon Stn.

ITAEWON. 02) 749 - 9827

APGUJEONG. 02) 518 - 9825

119-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

#101, 1F, Rodeo Bldg. 630-21 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

We feature the highest quality certified angus chuck on location.

Looking for the best burger in Seoul, come and dine at The Butcher’s Cut.

Apgujeong 02-514-9829 Dosan Park

JEJUHANG SUSHI

Daelim Housing Cultural Center

n ectio ters an In s o D

626-71 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Gangnam Kyobo Tower

02-532-9829

6

Shinhan Bank

Sinnonhyeon Stn.

carnitas(pork) carne asada(beef) el pollo loco(chicken) bean burrito chadol taco(beef)

B1F, Gangnam Taeyoung Dessian Luv, 1303-35 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

Enjoy Korean Movies in English!

CGV and Seoul City join forces to provide Korean movies with English subtitles for foreigners

“Make your smile forever” * Professional clinic: Implant esthetic clinic, prosthodontics esthetic clinic, endodontic restorative clinic, orthodontics esthetic clinic, oral & maxillofacial clinic, periodontics clinic, pedodontics clinic and power whitening clinic.

* Brand new equipment: State-of-the-art instruments, including lasers, fully digital X-rays (low radiation emission) and brand new equipment are ready for patients.

* Large-scale dental clinic: 13 separate rooms and 20 chairs. * English-speaking staff treat you like a V.I.P from beginning to end. * Aboveground parking provides you with large spaces for a hundred vehicles on the first floor of the building.

* Dental insurance forms completed * Weekdays Consultation hours at night • Opening Hours

Han River

Mon.-Thu. 9:30 a.m.- 8:00 p.m. | Fri. 9:30 a.m. - 6:30 p.m.

Sat. 9:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

◀ Dr. Ha has appeared on “MBC Good Day” as a dental adviser.

Pizza Hut 3F

Soonchunhyang University Hospital Free Parking (100 cars) is available.

Venture B/D 3F, 76-6 Hannam-dong Yongsan-gu, Seoul Appointments in English | Tel: 02-795-1599 | www.chicagotooth.co.kr

TONI&GUY is the most powerful hairdressing brand in the world.

The company is constantly evolving artistically and commercially.

TONI&GUY is the only hairdressing company to be awarded 'SuperBrand' and 'CoolBrand' status and to truly represent the catwalk-to-client philosophy. * BEAUTY CARE - CUT, STYLING, PERMING, COLOURING, NAIL, MAKE-UP, WEDDING...

CHEONGDAM - HEAD SALON Tel : 02-541-9985~7 Fax : 02-3443-2026 New Address : 98-10 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul.

BRANCHES : BANGBAE(SEOCHO) BUMGYE(PYEONGCHON) DOSAN(GANGNAM) HONGDAE(MAPO) ICHON(YONGSAN) JAMSIL(SONGPA) JEJU(JEJUCITY) MAPO(MAPO) MOKDONG(YANGCHEON) SANBON(GUNPO) SEOHYUN(BUNDANG) SUJI(YONGIN) ULSAN(ULSANCITY)

Tel : 02-522-0456 Tel : 031-381-0749 Tel : 02-549-0335 Tel : 02-338-2773 Tel : 02-3476-0148 Tel : 02-418-3437~8 Tel : 064-725-1444 Tel : 02-701-7782 Tel : 02-2654-8858 Tel : 031-393-0090 Tel : 031-705-9515 Tel : 031-266-2136~7 Tel : 052-272-2934

Korea`s Best Hair & Beauty Salon. Parkjun!

Main branches

Cheongdam T. 02-511-1414 Daechi-dong

Myeong-dong T. 02-319-1415

Gangnam-gu Office

Sohwa Children’s Hospital

SC First Bank Station, Line 7, Exit 8 Wooridul Hospital

Kookmin Bank

VIPS Gangnam District Tax Office

Seoul Station T. 02-364-1415 Gongdeok Ogeori

Kosney

Park Jun Beauty Lab Myeong-dong (2nd/3rd Flr)

Korail Seoul Office

Coffee Bean

Korail Park Jun Beauty Lab

Seoul Station (3rd Flr, Lotte Mart car park),

Won Bakery

Cheongdam Sungdang

Park Jun Beauty Lab

Apujeong

(Galleria Dept. Store)

Cheongdam 31-12 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Yeongyang Center

Migliore Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit

Starbucks

Yeom cheon gyo

Seoul Station (Line 4) Seoul Station (Line 1) Byeoksan Building

Namdaemun Police Station

Cinus Namsan

Nam daemun Yeonse Daeu Building Building Hoehyeon Myeong-dong City Hall

Franchise Offices T.(02)511-2255 / F.(02)3447-2255 / www.parkjun.com Seoul (02-) Garak 408-8381 | Garak Town 401-3455 | Gasan Station 2026-0100 | Gangnam 3482-1414 | Gangseo 2696-8262 | Gwanak Hanaro Mart 862-9232 | Nambu Terminal 588-8700 | Dapsimni 966-1966 | Dangsan 2633-0292 | Dongbu Ichon 798-7722 | Daerim 842-7797 | Daechi 3453-6260 | Daehangno 763-2354 | Dunchon 470-6670 | Ttukseom Resort 467-3332 | Mapo-Gongdeok 702-1001 | Myeongil 426-5363 | Mokdong 2653-6633 | Mia 989-4226 | Banpo 3477-1414 | Bangbae 523-3594 | Sadang 584-3591 | Sanggye 937-1393 | Sangdo 817-0226 | Seoul National University 883-6510 | Seolleung 552-5502 | Sungshin Women’s University 925-6060 | Suseo 445-0160 | Suyu 992-1222 | Siheung 805-2558 | Sillim 883-2020 | Sinbanpo Station 592-6886 | Sinchon Railway Station 312-4232 | Yangjae 577-4343 | Yangjae Hi Brand 2155-1717 | Yeouido 783-3804 | Yeonsinnae 353-0847/8 | Yeongdeungpo Branch 1 2675-1108 | Yeongdeungpo Branch 3 2069-3313 | Wangsimni 755-5505 | Yongsan Station 2012-0406 | Ujangsan 2662-7938 | Jangan 2212-7888 | Jangji Station 400-2477 | Jamsil Lotte Castle 2146-2420 | Jamsil 2203-3003 | Jongno 2-ga 735-1233 | Junggye Geonyeong Omni Dept. Store 979-3597 | Chung-Ang University 812-6999 | Cheongnyangni Lotte 958-1091 | Chongshin University Branch 1 532-3591 | Chongshin University Branch 2 534-3591 | Hongdae 322-6664 | Hwagok 2603-7997 | 2001 Outlet Cheonho 475-2994 | GS Songpa 546-1255 Incheon (032-) Incheon Gyesan 541-9970 | Incheon Geomdan 569-2770 | Guwol 427-5484 | Bupyeong 505-4096 | Bupyeong Samsan 324-7706 | Sin-Gonghang 752-8261 | Yeonsu 818-1232 | Incheon Jakjeon 555-9193 | Juan 423-9800 Gyeonggi Province (02-) Gwacheon 503-7043 | Gwangmyeong 2619-3391 (031-) Gwangju Gyeongan 763-3387 | Guri Station 551-3183 | Gimpo Sau 984-4268 | New Core Outlet Ilsan 904-2210 | Dongbaek 284-5611 | Dunjeon Station 323-1014 | Beomgye Branch 1 385-2983 | Beomgye Branch 2 385-5031 | Bundang Migeum 726-2400 | Bundang Seohyeon 702-8938 | Bundang 704-2814 | Sanbon 397-7674 | Suwon Station 242-1644 | Suwon Yeongtong 273-5958 | Suji 264-9330 | Sihwa 498-8842 | Ansan 480-1555 | Anyang 444-5744 | Osan 375-6033 | Yongin Jungang-ro 333-0146 | Ilsan Baekseok 932-0002 | Ilsan Pungdong 903-5142 | Paju 943-1888 | Pangyo Sampyeong 8017-2030 | Pyeongchon 346-2489 | Hopyeong 594-3723 | Hwajeong 979-3700 | 2001 Outlet Anyang 465-0038 (032-) Bucheon New Core Sopung 624-8840 | Bucheon City Hall 325-3323 | Bucheon Station 655-4800 | Songnae 324-0500 | Yeokgok 343-4938 Gangwon Province (033-) Sokcho 631-6033 South Gyeongsang Province (055-) Geoje-do D-Cube 680-0690 | Gimhae Lotte Outlet 900-2310 | Gimhae Samgye 313-6598 | Changwon Sangnam 267-2697 | Tongyeong Jum Outlet 640-8980 North Gyeonsang Province (054-) Andong 855-9915 | Pohang Lotte 231-6334 | Pohang Idong 273-0360 | Pohang 242-0360 Ulsan (052-) Ulsan Samsan 269-3340 South Chungcheong Province Gyeryong (042)551-5151 | (041-) Dangjin 354-4777 | Cheonan Yauri 567-6006 Daejeon (042-) Gao 286-7600 | Noeun 477-5153 | Dunsan 486-9513 | Birae 622-8887 | Techno Valley 936-9911 Daegu (053-) Sangin 258-3733 Busan (051-) Nongsim Hotel 518-4533 | Gwangan 759-0310 | Kyungsung University 622-3363 | Daesin 254-6323 | Daeyeon 628-3479 | Dongnae 555-1716 | Dongnae Megamart 553-0199 | Myeongji 271-7253 | Sajik 503-6338 | Seomyeon 807-1009 | Yeoksa 442-1188 (070-) Jangjeon 7744-6856 Overseas Assi Plaza | Illinois Branch 1 847-759-1717 | Illinois Branch 2 630-637-1717 | Illinois Branch 3 847-465-1717 | New York 203-624-5544 | Dallas | San Jose 408-489-1148 | San Diego 858-560-1212/1616 | Atlanta 770-476-0600 | LA 213-368-0000 | Vancouver 604-451-1236 | London 44-208-949-0191 | Wangjing 8610-5920-3250 | Paris 33-1-4108-8327 | Philippines Branch 1-63-927-335-5625

“What Makes You See This?”

Learn the Answer at Anguk Zen Center

18 exploring Seoul

HISTORIC SEOUL Four sites that remain as evidence of the city’s unique past

Zen Practice

Those who are interested in practicing Zen. Can receive special instruction from Zen Master Subul Sunim.

English Lecture

Buddhism and the culture of Buddhism 2:30~4:00 pm every Saturday (except national holidays)

24 cultural hot spots

fROM PAST TO fUTURE...

A visit to Seoul Museum of History

Gahoe-dong Catholic Church The Constitutional Court of Korea

Jaedong Elementary School Exit 2, Anguk Station

Tel. 732-0712 / 744-0772 www.angukzen.org

C/o/n/t/e/n/t/s

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 ′     



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42

travel

IN SEARCH Of MOTHER NATURE’S S-LINE Suncheon Bay boasts some of Korea’s best wetlands and stunning nature

  

  

   

seoulselection.com

COMING SOON

LIVING SPECIALLY DESIGNED fOR THE U.S. MARKET for U.S. Customers, Online Shopping Has Never Been So Easy.

72 74 76

no MoRe INTERNATIONAL POSTAGE CHARGES

78

MUCH QUICKeR DELIVERY!

80

US ONLINE BOOKSHOP BRINGS KOREAN CULTURAL CONTENT TO AN AMERICAN AUDIENCE. Seoul Selection USA Inc. Premier Business Centers 4199 Campus Drive, Suite 550 Irvine, CA 92612 Tel (949) 509-6500 | Fax (949) 509-6599

82

special report ii

EXPAT BANKING IN KOREA dining out

PIRATE fISH nightlife

A TENT RESTAURANT IN THE SKY lifestyle & leisure

HIKING SEOUL’S SPIRITUAL MOUNTAIN shopping

BUYING A PIECE Of AUTHENTICITY special report iii

THANKSGIVING IN SEOUL

84

community page

87

oriental medicine

88

Seoul of zen

C/o/n/t/e/n/t/s 16

28

streetwise in Seoul

G20 special

THE SUMMIT REACHES SEOUL G20 tour themes

36

Seoul personalities

46

Wholistic Care

HIKING IN STYLE

32

40

NEW YORK

Simone Carena tourist spot

Bosingak Belfry special report i

A NEW STEP INTO IT FUTURE

48

Seoul dining for beginners

50

hotel news

54

event calendar

56

goings on around town

Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care The ultimate place to reenergize your mind and body, correct your structural imbalances and achieve optimum health and body awareness. Dr. Vincent Jong, a well-trained, experienced New York chiropractor, has a multi-faceted approach to patient care that integrates chiropractic care with individually custom-designed pilates and yoga. NY Wholistic Care is completely furnished with state-ofthe-art pilates equipment, including the most recent version of V2Max Reformers. Restore the normal balance of your body through soothing therapeutic massage. Don’t forget to sign up to explore your body composition with an Integrated Iridologist at NYWC. All staff are bilingual and internationally certified in their field of specialization.

Take a direct path to wellness and vitality at NY Wholistic Care.

Chiropractic Pilates/Yoga Pre/Post natal care Therapeutic massage Integrated Iridology Office Hours Mon ~ Fri : 8am ~ 8pm Sat : 8am ~ 5pm

T. 02. 792. 2296 Dr. Vincent Jong US Board Certifed

www.nywc.co.kr

736-21 Hannam-dong Yongsan-gu Hyundai Car Dealer bldg, 2nd fl. 서울시 용산구 한남동 736-21 현대자동차빌딩 2층

US, France, and other International Health Insurance benefits available.

TRAVEL & CULTURE

Maps & Guides

Subscribe Now! November 2010 Issue No. 88

Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editorial Advisor Chung Kyung-a Kay Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Production Editor Ben Jackson Copy Editor Colin Mouat Staff Reporter/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Head Designer Jung Hyun-young Designers Min So-young Kim Young-ju, Lee Bokhyun, Shin Eun-ji Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Contributors | Daniel Gray Sonya Beard | Kim Sungjin Peter DeMarco | Patricia Park David B Mann Emanuel Yi Pastreich | Raimund Royer | Jacco Zwetsloot Subul Sunim Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by Prinpia (Tel 82-2-3282-8589) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise — without the written consent of the publishers.

SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (writer@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.

In addition to our monthly magazine SEOUL, we offer a free online SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul. E-mail your subscription request to sense@seoulselection.com (82-2-734 9567, www.seoulselection.com).

Your guide to culture, arts and entertainment in one of the world's hottest cities! Subscriptions available (at 12% discount) at just 32,000 won a year

Stores where you can purchase SEOUL magazine 1. Major bookstores & their branches: Kyobo Bookstore, Youngpoong Bookstore, Bandi & Luni’s 2. Seoul Selection Bookshop / Online Bookshop www.seoulselection.com ● Payments

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Place Your AD! hankinseoul@gmail.com

광고문의 02)734-9567

cover shoot

Coat- contemporary space Dress- Moi et Toi Hat- Judy and Joshua Accessories- stylist's personal items

Coat- UginiO Dress- Moi et Toi Hairband- Fantastyle Accessories- stylist's personal items

Lee Kang Un Cuperm: A high-class hair salon with branches across northern Seoul. Lee Kang Un Cuperm has collaborated with SEOUL for a range of cover shoots, always coming up with the right cut for the job. SEOUL readers can get a 10% discount at Lee Kang Un by cutting out a coupon from the advertisement on p27.

Getting there: See our Maps & Guides supplement (p23, C1). Ewha Womans University Station, Line 2, Exit 2.

LEVEL 5 (LAB5): Selling and marketing the work of 100 independent Korean fashion designers, LAB5 offers truly unique items from some of Korea’s most exciting designers. LAB5 is the own-brand of LEVEL 5, the fashion mall on the fifth floor of Myeong-dong’s Noon Square. Go there to witness the future of Korean fashion.

Getting there: See our Maps & Guides supplement (p10, C2). Euljiro 1-ga Station, Line 2, Exit 6.

Photographer: Ryu Seunghoo Model: Lee Ga-yoon Stylists: Ko Yeon-kyung & Shin Eun-ji Hair designer: Lee Joo Yeon Makeup artist: Lee Jae Eun

Looking as if she had just stepped off a steam train from the 1930s to the present, model Lee Ga-yoon posed for this month’s SEOUL cover in the grounds of Seoul Museum of History and Gyeonghuigung Palace on a perfect October afternoon. Unfortunately, the tram does not run any more.

See our “Cultural Hot Spots” article (p24—27) for more about the locations.

ree festival tickets!

SEOUL is giving away pairs of free tickets to non-verbal performance festival “Korea in Motion Daegu.” All you have to do is “like” us on facebook and post a message on our wall. If you prefer, you can send an email to writer@seoulselection.com.

Taking place in the southeastern city of Daegu from November 5—7, Korea in Motion Daegu features a range of popular Korean non-verbal performances based on genres such as modern dance, musical, acrobatics, B-boying and healthy doses of slapstick. for more info, call 1644-8415 or visit www. koinmodaegu.com.

It takes two hours to get from Seoul Station to Daegu

by KTX.

Dress- JiheiG Hairband- Fantastyle Shoes- byeuuns Accessories- stylist's personal items

travel & culture SEOUL 15

streetwise in Seoul

HIKING IN STYLE

Where to get kitted out before you hit the mountains Written by Ben Jackson

O

n autumn weekends, Seoul’s many mountains groan under the weight of thousands and thousands of hikers. As with golf, hiking in Korea is an enterprise that demands the wearing and carrying of as much high-quality gear as possible. Department stores, large supermarkets, small retailers, and markets all stock hiking paraphernalia, from basic shoes to specialist rock climbing tools. But SEOUL recommends the following neighborhood for good gear at the best prices.

Brand names

Dongdaemun Market—making sense of it all Stretching along Cheonggyecheon Stream around the Dongdaemun area is a huge complex of markets, recommended by Seoul Hiking Club leader Changdae Kim as the best spot to get good-quality hiking equipment at discount prices.

Start from Dongdaemun Station, Line 4, Exit 8, and head west down the row of shops that lines the road by Cheonggyecheon Stream. After five minutes, you’ll come to Hyeondae Sanak (현대산 악; 02-2273-6830) on the right. This small shop is crammed with hiking shoes, boots, backpacks, and other paraphernalia. Expect around a 30% discount on marked consumer prices.

A little further west along the same row of shops is Jongro Sanak (종로 산악; 02-2279-7637; www.jrsports. net). The friendly staff here are used to foreign customers. The manager explains that Seoul hikers prefer softer footwear with higher levels of grip for sticking to the large boulders and open rock faces around the capital. Jongro Sanak also has a good range of Korean and foreign footwear (especially the US brand 5-10) and backpacks, along with plenty of clothing, accessories, and professional mountaineering equipment. Here, again, expect good discounts on footwear and backpacks.

16 SEOUL November 2010

More Info Seoul Hiking Club has gone hiking every Saturday since January 3, 1998, regardless of the weather. For more info, visit www.hikingkorea.com or email hikercd@hotmail.com.

A little further west is an outlet of Blackyak (022272-1818), one of Korea’s major hiking gear brands, followed by Korean competitor Redface (02-2264-8008), a colorful mid-range brand with reasonable prices and a permanent 20% discount.

When you come to a junction with a bridge over the Cheonggyecheon to the left, turn right.

You’ll come to Echoroba (02-2264-5777), another Korean brand that also stocks highquality German Hanwag boots. These will set you back anywhere from 3 00 ,0 00 won upward—the owner says their tough soles will last ten years.

Turn right at the next corner, opposite the entrance to Kwangjang Market (see below), to find a small street full of, among other stores, high-class foreign and Korean hiking brands.

The French label Millet (02-2265-4255) offers good quality at reasonable prices; further on are Snow Peak (02-2269-6234), a new Japanese arrival with fashionable gear that stocks Nepa and Keen among other brands); a specialist K2 footwear outlet (02-2279-5705); the Canadian high-end brand Arc’teryx (02-2266-2513; www. arcteryx.com); Switzerland’s elegant, elephantine Mammut (02-2272-8870); the Italian brand Nepa (02-2272-6234); and the French label Eider.

Come back out of the small street and turn right to find Exit 6 of Jongno 5-ga Station (Line 5). But SEOUL recommends first crossing the road and heading into the central corridor of Kwangjang Market, which sells cheap but delicious hot food and makgeolli (rice beer).

Changdae Kim recommends shopping here on a Saturday afternoon when the market activity is less intense, and gives the following tip: when you've finished bargining, ask for a pair of socks in the deal too. They nearly always agree, he says.

beauty

THEORY OF HAIRCHITECTURE Award-winning stylist Pete Kang’s unique approach to your coiffure

Pete Kang

B

y all accounts, hairstyling legend Vidal Sassoon’s 1968 autobiography, “Sorry I Kept You Waiting, Madam,” is hard to get hold of these days. In fact, it was superseded in September of this year by “Vidal: The Autobiography.” But Cheongdam-based stylist Pete Kang found a copy and it launched him into an entirely new career.

Kang explains how, in his teenage years, he was captivated by Sassoon’s architectural a p p r o a c h t h a t r e v o l u t i o n i z e d w o m e n’ s hairdressing. “He said, ‘The analogy between architecture and hairdressing is, as an architect would create a structure within the parameters of a city using its natural geographic landscape, so we would cut hair within the confines of a human face using the natural structure of bones.

I think that, as good architecture enhances a city, a good hair design or cut enhances the definition and expression of a face.’ I thought, ‘This is a real pioneer.’ He gave people freedom, since a nice haircut no longer meant artificial set pieces or blow-drying. Clients no longer needed to go to the salon every day. He released them.”

Kang’s own technique takes Sassoon’s analogy to heart. While he takes around 45 minutes to give a cut, he says, time must be spent before this talking with clients and working out what kind of style will suit their own unique bone structure. He often makes hand drawings—not altogether unlike an architect’s plans—of heads and hair.

When Kang was seventeen and working as a hairdresser in Korea, he decided to explore further horizons and went to study in London, where he graduated as top student from the Sassoon Diploma Course before working for the Sassoon Salon in Covent Garden. It was in

London that Kang found his “mark ” as a hairdresser. In other words, his own personal style.

Kang later returned to Korea, where he taught hairdressing and worked as a freelancer before meeting veteran Lee Kaja, in whose salon he currently works. “She’s an inspirational figure,” says Kang of Lee. “She’s in her late sixties but still works as a stylist and loves her job. I like the way she thinks of hair as an art form.”

Kang’s photographs and diagrams speak for themselves about his distinct technique and style.

He is the man to call if you’re after a cut with some character from a talented hairdresser with a unique style of his own.

BISlon) haIr Sa ead aJa am H d leeK g n eo (Ch

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exploring Seoul

HISTORIC SEOUL

Four sites that remain as evidence of the city’s unique past Written by Jacco Zwetsloot | Photographs by Ryu Seunghoo

W

hen you are tired of apartment buildings, shopping centers, and even traditional markets, it is always lovely to stroll around some of the oldest parts of Seoul. There are sites here that stretch back into the past and connect the city’s present with the endless stream of life that has flowed through this place for millennia.

The grandest of all Seoul’s palaces The Gyeongbokgung Palace compound is so massive that you can never see it all in one visit.

Its accessibility and cheap entry price make it worth revisiting at least once a season; every trip is bound to yield some new delights.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Construction on the palace began in 1394, after Seoul was chosen as the capital of the Joseon Dynasty. During the Japanese colonial period (1910—1945), more than half of the existing buildings were destroyed. However, many of the more majestic structures still stand or have been reconstructed.

The traditional changing of the guard ceremonies are recreated several times each day before the imposing Gwanghwamun Gate, whose reconstruction was completed just last August.

On top of its countless treasures to be discovered, the palace compound also houses the National Palace Museum of Korea and the National Folk Museum of Korea.

Where to eat There is a little alley running perpendicular to the western outer wall of the Gyeongbokgung compound that has some very tasty and affordable Korean restaurants—Saemaeul-Sikdang, a kimchi jjigae specialty house, and a place famous for its broiled fish.

Just come out of the west gate and go down the alley almost directly across the road.

Getting there Gyeongbokgung Station Line 3, Exit 5. Or, for a scenic route, come out of Gwanghwamun Station, Exit 5, to Gwanghwamun Plaza and walk all the way up to the main gate of the palace.

all-InclUSIVe TIcKeT An all-inclusive ticket (10,000 won, valid for 1 month) for Seoul's four major palaces (Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, and Deoksugung) and Jongmyo Shrine is available at the ticket offices of all of these five destinations.

National Folk Museum of Korea

More Info Website: www.royalpalace.go.kr T. (02) 723-4283.

Closed every Tuesday. Open 9am—6pm (Mar—Oct) and 9am—5pm (Nov—Feb). Open until 7pm on weekends and national holidays (May—Aug).

Admission: 3,000 won for adults, 1,500 won for children. Free guided tours (about one hour) are available from inside the gate where you show your ticket. Call ahead for groups of 10 or more.

travel & culture SEOUL 19

exploring Seoul

The most accessible of old Seoul’s gates Seoul was once a citadel, a city surrounded by 18 kilometers of wall. Four large and four small gates provided access to the nation’s capital. Of the four large gates in each of the cardinal directions, only those in the north and east stand unscathed (the west gate is gone, and the south gate was damaged by arson in 2008).

Dongdaemun (“the great east gate”) is also known as Heunginjimun, literally "gate of rising benevolence." The first gate was built in 1396 during the reign of King Taejo, the first monarch of the Joseon Dynasty. The portal currently standing was built in 1869.

The neighborhood is now better known for the fashion shopping district that sprang up just

nearby, but the gate is unmissable, sitting incongruously at the intersection of some of Seoul’s busier streets.

The gate itself is not usually open to public access, but it is possible to navigate your way around it and admire the centuries-old walls partly overgrown with ivy. Just north of the gate is part of the old city wall, demolished to allow for the city’s expanding girth. Some of it was used to build what followed—a church just opposite the gate sits upon the wall’s foundations. You can hike along the wall up to Mt. Naksan Park.

South of the gate, at Dongdaemun History and Culture Park, another section of the wall has recently been restored and is now open to the public.

Where to eat Try the street food tents just across from the fashion market, south of the gate. There are lots of cheap and tasty eats there, and the atmosphere is convivial, especially at night.

Getting there Dongdaemun Station, Lines 1 & 4, Exit 6. To find the remnants of the old city wall, take the road immediately north of the gate, to the right of one church and leading toward another church. Look for the path that comes off to the left.

Heunginjimun, Seoul's eastern gate

20 SEOUL November 2010

Jongmyo

More info On weekdays and Sundays (except Tuesdays, when it is closed), admission to Jongmyo is only allowed for guided tours. English tours are at 10am and 11am, and at 2pm and 3pm. Call (02) 7650195 to reserve a place, or have a Korean friend do it on the website.

Every Saturday, it is open to visitors without guided tours. Opening hours are 9am—6pm (Mar—Sept) and 9am—5:30pm (Oct—Feb).

Entry costs 1,000 for adults and 500 won for children.

Website: http://jm.cha.go.kr

Places to eat Try the handmade noodles (kalguksu ) or dumpling soup (manduguk ) in the small restaurant above the pharmacy (cheerfully labeled “Have a healthy day”) outside Exit 8 of Jongno 3-ga Station.

Getting there Jongmyo is within five minutes’ walk of Jongno 3-ga Station. From Line 1, take Exit 11 (walk straight and take the first road to the left); from Line 3 or 5, take Exit 8 (walk straight and then follow the road to the right).

Jongmyo Jerye ancestral rite in progress

Where ancestral music is still played Jongmyo is the royal shrine of the Joseon Dynasty. Here, nineteen kings and thirty of their wives are memorialized. Their bodies are not here—just their name tablets. It is these stone tablets that were the objects of Confucian rituals of ancestor reverence.

Jongmyo was built in 1394, the same year as Gyeongbokgung. Over the years, the shrine was extended to accommodate more deceased kings and their consorts. The entire complex was rebuilt in 1601 after being burnt down by Japanese invaders.

A beautiful tradition of music and dance

developed in the rite, which is still held on the first Sunday of each May, called the Jongmyo Jerye. Performers dressed as royal servants play court music, Jerye-ak, and the late monarchs of Korea are venerated. This music and rite were recognized in 2001 as the first of Korea's Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. Other ceremonies and performances are held there five times a year. Even on a nonceremonial day, Jongmyo is impressive as the longest building ever built in the traditional Korean style, facing a massive courtyard measuring 100 by 150 meters. It was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 1995. travel & culture SEOUL 21

exploring Seoul

Remains of the former Russian Legation

More info For a more informative walk, follow Tour 2 of “Seoul’s Historic Walks” by Chou In-souk and Robert Koehler.

Where to eat Since you are in Jeong-dong, it makes sense to try some foreign food. The Brazilians may not have been there in 1900, but they have a restaurant there now called Ipanema, serving all-you-can-eat Brazilian barbecue. Opposite the Canadian Embassy and up the hill a little.

Getting there The neighborhood of Jeong-dong can be reached on foot from City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2. Take Exit 1, turn 180 degrees, and take the first left turn. Follow the wall of Deoksugung Palace along to the roundabout and take the middle road.

For more information on locations of the places mentioned here, see our Maps & Guides supplement.

Deoksugung Palace wall

Jeong-dong—Where east first met West

Junghwajeon Hall, Deoksugung Palace

This quiet street, running from the side wall of Deoksugung Palace up to where Seodaemun, the Great West Gate, once stood, still resonates with the history of early modern Korea. Many of Seoul’s first encounters with Western education, medicine, diplomacy, imperialism, and religion took place here on the western edge of the walled city.

It was at the former Russian Legation that the penultimate Joseon monarch, King Gojong, spent a year after his wife, Queen Min, was assassinated. Nearby, the first western-style hotel in Seoul, the Sontag Hotel, was built.

The beautiful Jungmyeongjeon, recently restored, was once the King’s library and part of Deoksugung before becoming a banquet hall, then the location of the treaty that made Korea a Japanese protectorate, and later on the foreigners-only Seoul Club.

In this neighborhood, you will also find Korea’s oldest Protestant churches, the U.S. Embassy residence, the first girls’ high school in Korea, and so much more. There is an abundance of charming places to eat and stop for a coffee along the way.

Dr.Lee’s Dental Clinic Where beautiful smiles are made Expert know-how and treatment technique based on years of experience Opening Hours Mon-Fri 9:30am~6:00pm Sat 9:30am~3:00pm Closed on holidays and Sundays To Hannam Bridge

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Dr.Lee’s Dental Clinic 4th Fl, Mijin Plaza Buiding Gangnam Station, Line 2, Exit 1 (Free parking is available)

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02-553-2828, 02-3469-1133

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travel & culture SEOUL 23

cultural hot spots

FROM PAST TO FUTURE...

A visit to Seoul Museum of History

Written by Patricia Park | Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

24 SEOUL November 2010

I

t is difficult to imagine Seoul without its skyhigh buildings, neon lights, and staggering speeds of traffic, but a visit to the Seoul Museum of History in the heart of downtown offers a welcome retreat to the past. But don’t be fooled: the museum’s tranquil grounds belie Seoul’s history as a bustling capital city since the Joseon Dynasty.

The grounds The museum is situated on the original site of Gyeonghuigung Palace, which served as a detached auxiliary palace for the Joseon Dynasty kings. During the Japanese occupation, the Palace was diminished to half its original size.

But in 1980 the government designated the grounds as a historic site, and Gyeonghuigung’s original structures were excavated and restored; replicas of the unsalvageable forms were erected and opened to the public in 2002.

Some history On October 28, 1394, King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty (1392—1910), established the capital in Hanyang (present-day Seoul).

Given the city’s tumultuous history of invasions, fires, and invasions by fire, it is a wonder that any cultural artifacts remain from Seoul’s more than six hundred years as a city center, and its more than two thousand-year history of habitation. But when the Seoul Museum of History opened in 2002, over thirty thousand of these cultural relics were finally given a home and made available for public viewing. Please note that the museum is an overview of the city’s history and future, not the history of Korea as a country.

Permanent collection Begin the tour on the third floor of the museum; at the top of the stairs is the City Model Image Hall, a multimedia room whose highlight is a 318 square meter model cityscape. The interactive map lights up to highlight major tourist sites, giving visitors a true sense of the vast scale of the city.

The museum is divided into four exhibition halls arranged in a square overlooking a grass courtyard. The first, “Seoul, the Capital of Joseon Dynasty,” details the start of Seoul as the administrative center and includes historical scrolls, a medical thesaurus, and other documents. “The Life of People in Seoul” offers a travel & culture SEOUL 25

cultural hot spots

glimpse of everyday life for its citizens; hairpins, pipes, lacquered boxes, earthenware, and traditional dresses are among the artifacts included in the collection, along with dioramas of daily rituals. “Culture of Seoul” encompasses the royal court, academic, and arts cultures of Seoul, including paintings, sundials, and astronomical charts. “The Urban Development of Seoul” is currently under construction, but it will highlight the city’s urban development from the prehistoric era to present day.

conserving history in the three capital cities. The visiting collection encompasses cultural artifacts from all three cities, and there will be an international symposium of city planners, museum directors, and academics to address preservation practices. The grand opening ceremony will be on Nov 3, and the exhibit runs until Dec 10 (admission is free). For further details, check the site closer to the event date.

[Special exhibit hours: 9am—9pm weekdays, 9am—6pm weekends.]

Donations collection

What’s nearby

The highlight of this collection on the first floor is Unhyeonggung Palace, the private home and subsequent palace of several kings, including King Gojong. The collection includes lacquered tables, chairs, knives, and, most interestingly, photographs of the royal family. Also on display are the diaries of poet Song-Gan (1577— 1612); while less racy than their Elizabethan counterpart, the entries of Samuel Pepys, they are nonetheless telling in their glimpses of daily life.

Those wishing to extend their stay at the museum can dine at the on-site Congdu Restaurant, overlooking the grass courtyard. Lunch and dinner set menus of tofu steak, Jeju pig trotters, and other nouveau Korean items are on offer.

After the visit, take time to stroll the grounds of Gyeonghuigung Palace, situated in front of a breathtaking view of the mountains. If time permits, consider checking out the collection at the Gyeonghuigung annex of Seoul Museum of Art, just to the left of the history museum.

This month’s exhibition “Beijing, Seoul, Tokyo (BESETO)” is a look at 26 SEOUL November 2010

For more information on locations of the places mentioned here, see our Maps & Guides supplement.

More Info T: (02) 724-0114 Website: www.museum.seoul.kr Audio tour devices are available in English (free; use passport or alien registration card as deposit).

The museum’s “official” policy is these devices must be reserved in advance online, but in-person requesting is also possible.

Opening hours: Weekdays 9am— 9pm, weekends and holidays 9am—7pm. Closed Mondays.

Admission: Free. Special exhibits sometimes have a separate entrance fee.

GeTTInG There Subway: The museum is a five minute walk from Exit 7 of Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5.

Take a U-turn when exiting the station and make a right onto the main road at the Family Mart.

Pass A Twosome Place and the Salvation Army Office Building.

The museum is the red and beige building straight ahead.

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G20 special

THE SUMMIT REACHES SEOUL

Korea prepares for one of its favorite activities this November: hosting the world Written by Ben Jackson Photographs courtesy of the Presidential Committee for the G20 Seoul Summit

T

his November 11—12, the heads of government from all the states that constitute the G20 will meet in the Korean capital for talks on the world economy in the wake of the financial crisis of 2008. The 20 leaders will be joined by various finance ministers, governors of central banks and heads of major international financial bodies such as the World Bank, the International Monetary Fund and the Financial Stability Board. Between them, the G20 member states account for more than 85% of the world’s economy.

In Korea, the G20 Seoul Summit is the subject of huge anticipation and pride. The event is seen by many as the nation’s third major appearance in the international spotlight, following the 1988 Seoul Olympics and the 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup. But what is the G20? And why has Korea been getting so excited for so long about a twoday meeting, the highly technical contents of which many people on the streets of the G20 member states are not even able to understand?

G20—the club that keeps expanding Adversity may not always lead to increased unity, but it certainly did in 1974 when five nations— the USA, Japan, the UK, France and Germany— came together for greater cooperation on economic policy following the 1973 oil crisis, forming a group known as the G5. Italy and Canada soon joined to create the G7, which held annual summit and finance minister meetings, and was joined by Russia from 1997 in the political, though not yet economic, arena.

Following the 1997 financial crisis, the need was recognized for a cooperative organization that included both advanced economies and emerging economies. In December 1999 in Berlin, the G20 met for the first time, after which 28 SEOUL November 2010

it met annually as a gathering of finance ministers and central bank governors for a further decade.

In 2008, in the midst of another global financial crisis, it was decided that the G20 should become a summit meeting among the leaders of its member states. Since then, the G20 Summit has been held twice a year, in Washington DC, London, Pittsburgh and Toronto. Korea’s hosting of the second 2010 G20 summit this November is significant in that it marks the first time a G20 Summit has been hosted by an emerging nation. There are tough items on the agenda, such as exchange rates, but real progress is also expected in areas such as international financial regulation systems.

What’s in it for Korea?

The 1988 Summer Olympics, held in Seoul, lasted for two weeks and featured all the drama that could be expected when the strongest and fastest athletes from 160 nations come together to compete for glory. The 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup lasted for a month, during which the eyes of billions of football fans worldwide turned to Korea to watch the world’s top players in action. The South Korean team surprised the world by storming into the semi-finals.

This November’s G20 summit will last for two days, during which lots of men in suits will sit down and talk about financial issues. So what is all the excitement about?

E v e r s i n c e t h e S e c o n d H a g u e Pe a c e Conference in The Hague in 1907, Korea has felt a strong desire for a fair level of recognition in the international community. At this time, Emperor Gojong of Korea sent three secret emissaries to The Hague to declare Korea’s independence in the face of increasing Japanese domination. The emissaries were forbidden by

Korean President Lee Myung-bak and officials at an earlier G20 meeting this year

G20 members The G20 Summit is attended by the heads of 19 states, as well as the European Union (EU): Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Canada, China, France, Germany, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Republic of Korea, Mexico, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Republic of South Africa, Turkey, United Kingdom, United States of America and the EU.

the great powers, however, from participating in the conference and physically prevented from entering the conference hall. Recognition of Korea and its sovereignty among great powers was almost non-existent. Three years later, Japan began a 35-year colonial occupation of Korea that was to end only with Japan’s World War II defeat in 1945.

The Republic of Korea (South Korea) today has one of the world’s largest economies and a high living standard in addition to its centuriesold unique and sophisticated culture. Its sports players regularly win gold medals and international tournaments. Many of the consumer goods it manufactures are among the best in the world. Yet relatively few people outside the country are aware of what kind of place it is. This, combined with the facts that Korea’s growth was achieved in such a short time and that it is the first emerging country to host a G20 summit meeting make the event highly significant to the Korean people.

In terms of the G20 dealings themselves, Korea is aware that hosting a summit meeting of leaders of group as new and diverse as the G20 is no easy task. Such international meetings have proved repeatedly their capacity to produce bland, anti-climactic results despite high expectations. But Korea can work to shape any global financial rules that are formulated at the meeting, based on its own experiences of global financial turmoil. It can also play a strong role in shaping the agenda of future summits.

An end to the Korea discount?

The Korea discount is a phenomenon whereby Korean goods and services are said to fetch a lower price on global markets than they otherwise would, because of a negative image of Korea as a backward or unstable country.

Some economists argue that the Korea discount is as great as 20 or 30 percent; others claim it is

travel & culture SEOUL 29

special report i global financial regulations. Korea, in particular, is showing initiative in leading the formation of a global financial safety net in ways such as seeing through the establishment of the Precautionary Credit Line, a system that makes it easier than before for countries with sound economic policies to obtain crisis insurance protecting them from global financial crises that are not their fault.

“Thirdly, the summit will be an opportunity for South Korea to overcome the Western media’s focus on the North Korean nuclear issue and East Asian geopolitics, and to show that it is a stable state with a healthy economy and an important status in global fiscal affairs.”

The host city

SaKong Il, Chairman of the Presidential Committee for the G20 Seoul Summit, poses with actress Han Hyo-joo and figure skater Kim Yu-na

30 SEOUL November 2010

a myth. If, however, the phenomenon really exists, how might the G20 summit help to reverse it or even covert it into a premium?

Lee Dong-hun, a research fellow at Samsung Economic Research Institute (SERI), lists three ways in which the summit could work to mitigate or eradicate any discount hampering Korea’s economic performance. “Firstly, the summit will bring a total of around 10,000 leaders, diplomats and financial experts to Korea,” he says. “Many of these people are considered global opinion leaders and there are very few occasions when such people gain direct personal experience of Korea by visiting the country. Such a large-scale visit may make a real and positive impact on such global leaders’ image of Korea.

“Secondly, around 10,000 members of the world’s media are also expected to visit Korea, offering further chances for high levels of positive exposure. Hopes are high that real progress can be made in areas such as introducing new

Many visitors to Seoul this autumn will be experiencing the city for the first time. What can they expect?

Seoul is one of the world’s megacities, meaning its population is in excess of 10 million.

It is well known among residents and visitors alike for its constant state of business and the high pace at which life takes place. Barely 100 years ago, Seoul was the capital of a royal dynasty that had ruled Korea for half a millennium. Its population was well below one million. In the decades since then, the city has endured Japanese colonial rule (1910—1945), war (1950—1953), and national division (1948 to the present) and rapid growth in terms of both population and economy (from around 1960 onwards).

Today, much of Seoul’s skyline is dominated by high-rise office buildings and apartment blocks. Though not always glamorous, they are testimony to the way the city has successfully absorbed intense and sustained urban migration. Another reason for this superficial appearance is that Korea’s traditional wooden buildings—palaces, temples and houses—are rarely more than one or two stories high, and therefore now invisible from afar.

Seoul’s bustling activity carries on well into the night, when hard-working citizens head out to eat, drink, shop and be entertained. The city's people love to be outside the home, socializing and reinforcing relationships.

In terms of culture, Korea’s capital is home to abundant museums, performance venues of all sizes, galleries, parks and historical sites, to name but a few.

Anyone visiting Seoul for the G20 from November 11—12 only is sure to leave with one regret: that they couldn’t stay a bit longer...

travel & culture SEOUL 31

G20 special

G20 MiNi-TOUr SPECiAL

If you get bored in the summit meeting, sneak out and try one of our half-day or day tours.

World heritage & history

0.5 days

Seoul World Heritage sites

1

- Take in some of Seoul’s globally recognized historic treasures.

Changdeokgung Palace (Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 3) ▶ Insa-dong ▶ Jongmyo

1 day

2

600 years of history

- A day among palaces, markets and a traditional village.

Gyeongbokgung Palace (Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 2) ▶ Cheonggyecheon Stream ▶ Myeong-dong ▶ N Seoul Tower ▶

Namdaemun Market ▶ Namsangol Hanok Village

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Bukchon Hanok Village

3 0.5 days

Seoul: comparing past and present

- Witness the city’s remarkable transformation over the last 100 years.

4 1 day

A day of traditional culture

- Exploring royal palaces and one of Seoul’s oldest neighborhoods

Changdeokgung Palace (Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit

Bukchon Hanok Village (Anguk Station, Line

3) ▶ Insa-dong ▶ Deoksugung Palace guard changing

3, Exit 1) ▶ Cheonggyecheon ▶

ceremony (11am, 2pm, 3:30pm except Mon) ▶

Seoul Museum of History

32 SEOUL November 2010

Namsangol Hanok Village ▶ Samcheong-dong

If you’re in town for the G20 summit and want to take some time to discover the many faces of Seoul, have a look through our theme-based tours. Some are designed to take half a day and others a whole day, but the pace you choose is up to you.

We’ve marked the starting subway station for each tour, but we recommend that you take along our Maps & Guides supplement to help find your way around. If you’re too tired or busy to take the

subway, try Seoul’s International Taxi service (www.intltaxi.co.kr or (+82) 1644-2255). Taxis can be chartered for 50,000 for three hours and increasing rates up to 200,000 won for a full day (12 hours). But with most of the tours here, walking between close destinations and flagging down normal taxis between further ones will work out much cheaper. If you get lost, call Korea Travel Hotline on 1330 or Dasan Call Center on 120.

cutting-edge technology / seoul by night / science & environment

0.5 days

1

Cutting-edge technology

0.5 days

- An encounter with Korea’s world-leading digital industries

2

- Experience Seoul via its iconic mountains and river.

KT olleh square (Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 2) ▶

river cruise and night cityscape

samsung d’light exhibition center

Hangang River ferry and buffet meal cruise and Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain (Yeouinaru Station, Line 5, Exit 3) ▶

N Seoul

Tower night cityscape

Hangang cruise

Cheonggyecheon Stream

0.5 days

Sustainable city: urban parks

3

1 day

4

Harmony between technology and environment

- Get acquainted with Seoul’s green spaces and quest for sustainability.

- High-tech digital media complexes, new parks, a river cruise

Cheonggyecheon Stream (Gwanghwamun

DMC (Digital Media City Station, Line 6, Exit 2) ▶

Station, Line 5, Exit 5) ▶ Seonyudo Park ▶ Haneul Park (Seoul World Cup Stadium) ▶ Cheonggyecheon Stream

and more.

Haneul & Noeul Parks ▶

N Seoul Tower ▶

Hangang cruise ▶

Seoul Museum of

History ▶ Gwanghwamun Square

travel & culture SEOUL 33

G20 special

temple stay experience and seoul urban life tour

1

Buddhist Seoul

1 day

- Temples, a Buddhist vegetarian meal and stunning Buddhist art

Jogyesa Temple (Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 6) ▶ lunch at Sanchon vegetarian restaurant ▶ Museum of Korean Buddhist Art ▶

Gilsangsa Temple ▶

Suyeon

Sanbang teahouse

Gilsangsa

1 day

Temple stay and urban life

2

- Buddhism and urban chic in southern Seoul

Bongeunsa Temple (Samseong Station, Line 2, Exit 6) ▶

COEX Kimchi Museum ▶ Garosugil tree-lined

street, Sinsa-dong ▶ Cheongdam-dong COEX

34 SEOUL November 2010

discovering the beauty of seoul / seoul shopping

1 day

Seoul art tour

1

2

1 day

- Two giant museums and an artistic student neighborhood

- A host of galleries in two atmospheric neighborhoods

Arario (Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1) ▶ Artsonje

Leeum Samsung Museum of

Center ▶ Gana Art Center ▶ Total Museum of Art

Art (Hangangjin Station, Line 6, Exit 1) ▶

Bukchon and Pyeongchang-dong Galleries

▶ Gallery Sejul ▶ Kim Chong Yung Museum

Seoul Museum of Art ▶

Gallery street near Hongik University

Artsonje Center Boon the Shop

0.5 days

Gangnam Power Shopping

3

- Ultra-highbrow fashion in a southern Seoul shopping hot spot

4

0.5 days or 1 day

Clothes & Gifts Shopping

Atelier Hermes (taxi from Apgujeong Station,

- The almost limitless possibilities of Seoul shopping—take as long as you like...

Line 3, Exit 2) ▶ Ann Demeulemeester Seoul

Insa-dong (Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 6) ▶

▶ Daily Projects ▶ Boon the Shop ▶ 10

Myeong-dong ▶

Corso Como ▶ Galleria Dept Store

Market ▶

Namdaemun

Dongdaemun Market

travel & culture SEOUL 35

Seoul personalities

EUrASiAN DESiGN PASSiON

SEOUL meets top local Italian architect Simone Carena Written by Sonya Beard Photographs by Ryu Seunghoo and courtesy of Motoelastico

M

otoelastico bills itself as the best Italian architectural firm in Seoul. Naturally, that raises the question: How stiff is the competition? It so happens that it’s the only Italian architectural firm in Seoul.

Still, principal Simone Carena finds himself facing challenges from the local government and irrational clients who want something different as long as it looks like everything else.

Now add in the cultural clashes and language barriers. And don’t forget the red tape that becomes even more entangled when working in a foreign country. With opposition like that, who needs competition?

Those no-win situations have sent other Italian companies stomping back to the boot-shaped peninsula. “They get so frustrated doing business here in Korea that they leave after one or two years,” says Carena.

Motoelastico’s top ranking is not merely by default, explains Carena, who started the firm with his partner Marco Bruno in 2002. “We know that things aren’t going to change in two years. This will be a slow, frustrating process. We are the best because we survived and we learned from bad experiences.”

If success comes only 10 percent of the time, Carena says, “that makes the other 90 percent worth all the frustration.”

That 10 percent includes numerous exhibits and impressive structures around town like Grappa the Lounge, which features Asian floorseating juxtaposed with European benches. And Duemio, a boutique that showcases accessories with male and female Velcro shelves and curtains. Carena was amused with this display for its idea and application; in his words, it mimics the way a woman traps a man.

no place like work Climb the scary, steep stairs to Motoelastico and there’ll be a trap door on the ceiling. The border is trimmed in black-and-yellow caution tape.

36 SEOUL November 2010

Dare to enter what looks like a forbidden attic and discover a world never suspected above the bustling Kwangjang Market, one of the city’s oldest traditional shopping pavilions.

The office is a screaming-yellow art space with fire-orange blinds. Scroll to the left and notice a massive wooden shape of the architects’ homeland on the wall—well, half of it, anyway.

The other half juts out perpendicularly into a worktable. “It splits diagonally near Rome and Abruzzo, where they had that earthquake,” says Bruno, who first met Carena 20 years ago while they were undergrads at Torino Polytechnic in Italy.

People think architects should be serious and sad, says Carena, who showed up to the office in a Ducati biker jacket, copper parachute pants, and black low-top boots. But this design duo has way too much fun to be subdued.

Recently, a Korean newspaper ran front-page head shots of North Korea’s Kim Jong-il flanked by his father Kim Il-sung and son Kim Jong-un.

Oddly, Carena had a trio of photos with his father Cesario (1935), his son Felice (2001), and himself (1970) each as toddlers in the exact same chair. Carena positioned all the photos on one poster with the headline, “Three Generations of Power on the Same Chair.”

Exotic blends Even when it comes to an afternoon pick-me-up, Carena manages to find creative ways to blend cultures. One Korean-Italian concoction is the espresso he offers guests in the office. The mocha maker heated by a Korean BBQ burner makes a strong cup of Italian coffee.

Another ideal pairing is the Italian-Korean union between Carena and his wife, fashion designer Shin Ji-hye. Their international love connection began when they met a party during Carena’s first year in Seoul and continued with two weddings in their respective countries. Now, the couple lives in Samcheong-dong with their 1-1/2 year old son. Baby No. 2 is scheduled to arrive in March.

Carena’s masterpiece would be the renovated hanok people warned him not to purchase. He preserved the traditional Korean features on the outside, and the Italian influences dream homes are made of are highlighted—in bamboo green—on the inside.

The project proved controversial initially. The city couldn’t figure out whether to penalize Carena for not following all the codes or praise him for his innovation. “Do we pay a fine or win The hanok Carena renovated in Samcheong-dong

Seoul personalities

1 3 2 1. Duemio 2. A drawing of Grappasutra 3. "Motulor perspective"

a prize?” Carena asks. “The restrictions have since changed. I’d like to think we had a small part in that.”

The slice of paradise, which has tripled in price since he purchased it, has garnered international media attention with four TV segments and more than 20 publications, including the Architectural Review and the New York Times.

“All that coverage has not generated any new projects for us,” Carena says, adding that Koreans are afraid to try something new. “They are into mass prestige. They want to do what everyone else is doing. But our firm specializes in custom designs.”

Island inspirations Carena had opportunities to study at Oxford University (through the ERASMUS exchange program) and Harvard School of Design (through an arrangement from an Oxford professor) before receiving his master’s degree from the Southern California Institute for Architecture.

But it was an earlier study abroad program, which Carena had organized on his own with

38 SEOUL November 2010

permission from his Italian university and what is now the University of Technology in Jamaica, that would have a lasting impact on his career.

Carena sought out the only other white guy on campus, a Peace Corps professor, to privately tutor him in exchange for conducting field studies that sent the student to the streets of Kingston researching architecture.

Carena, who remembered hearing Bob Marley’s “Coming in From the Cold” when he was just 11, also used that time to trace the legacy of the reggae visionary. That’s where Carena discovered that Marley was an architect in his own right. “The more I dug, the more I discovered someone who did something that was true to himself, not for money or fame.”

Carena is concerned that his students at the International Design School for Advanced Studies at Hongik University lack that kind of passion.

His message to them: “Find your talent and invest in it. When you do what you like to do, you won’t care about how much money you get.

Even when they don’t pay me or destroy my work or treat me like a foreigner, I’m happy at the end of the day. I like coming into the office.”

travel & culture SEOUL 39

tourist spot

40 SEOUL November 2010

Bosingak Belfry Photographed by Kim Sungjin

B

osingak Belfry has been one of Seoul’s best known landmarks since it was first erected in 1396. It also goes by the name of Jonggak (“The Belfry”), and it is from this that Seoul’s main east-west thoroughfare, Jongno (“Bell Road”), takes its name.

Like bell towers elsewhere in the world, Bosingak was built to keep time. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392—1910), the bell would ring 33 times at 4am to mark the opening of Seoul’s city gates. At 7pm, it would ring 28 times to mark the closing of the gates. This also marked a general curfew throughout the capital.

Accordingly, the bell played a vital role in regulating life in old Seoul.

When the first bell melted in a fire, a new bell was crafted in 1468. This bell still exists, although it now hangs in a museum for preservation reasons. The bell currently housed in Bosingak Belfry was crafted in 1985. The current belfry, meanwhile, dates from 1979.

The bell no longer marks the opening and closing of the city gates, but it is rung 33 times on New Year’s Eve, when thousands of people flock to the Belfry in a tradition similar to that of New York’s Times Square.

Getting there Jonggak Station, Line 1, Exit 4 For more information on locations of the places mentioned here, see p.8 in our Maps & Guides supplement.

travel & culture SEOUL 41

travel

IN SEARCH OF MOTHER NATURE’S S-LINE

Suncheon Bay boasts some of Korea’s best wetlands and stunning nature Written and photographed by Peter DeMarco

W

hen I first got to Suncheon Bay and started to make my way down the boardwalk through the reeds amongst what seemed like a million other tourists, all I could think was, “Is this it?”

The entrance to the wetlands had the look and feel of a theme park: a trolley bus complete with an oversized kitschy flying bird hood ornament, people queuing up for a boat tour of the bay as if it were a roller coaster ride, an eco center with 42 SEOUL November 2010

a two-story globe encased in glass, a tour buspacked parking lot, and, of course, the ubiquitous souvenir shops.

All that was missing were park employees walking around in mascot-like costumes of cute endangered birds. Even the park visitors were dressed more like they had just come from church—high heels, skirts, suits, and parasols— than as if they were going hiking into one of Korea’s most attractive wetlands.

a bay with curves Thankfully, as I walked deeper into the marsh, the crowds began to thin out. The sound of the wind in the reeds got louder. The muddy ocean bay’s salty smell grew thicker. Crabs scrambled around in the gray mud below the wooden footbridge.

B y t h e t i m e I c l i m b e d u p t o Yo n g s a n Observatory, I began to realize why people, especially photographers, come here from all over the country. Once on high ground, you can see lily pad-shaped clumps of green marsh and colorful red and orange plants growing on the tidal flats, all surrounded by layers of mountains.

Best of all was the view of the river snaking through the marsh into the tidal flats. Like the coveted female body type that Koreans call the “S-line” (think Pamela Anderson: curvy from top to bottom), the river forms a perfect “S” shape.

autumn migration It’s views like the one from Yongsan Observatory that draw over 2.8 million visitors per year. In 2006, Suncheon Bay became the first Korean coastal wetlands to become registered on the list o f R a m s a r We t l a n d s . T h e d e s i g n a t i o n guarantees the wetlands conservation and sustainable utilization into the future.

Today, the protected area is made up of 21.6 km of mudflats and 5.4 km of reed beds. It’s home to many species of migratory birds such as the hooded crane, as well as other rare aquatic birds such as the crested ibis, white heron, and black-faced spoonbill.

In the fall, many migratory birds call the bay home. One such bird is the Eurasian curlew, which rests in the bay for about two weeks during its almost 5,000 km journey from Australia to Siberia.

As for me, my day was coming to an end. Like a migrating bird, it was time for me to move on.

The sun had gone down, and the observation deck was nearly empty. A crescent moon hung over the pinkish-blue sky. A fisherman motored his boat up the river to its dock. Waves of wind crashed against the sea of reeds below. It was as if I was standing in the middle of some idyllic postcard photo. All I could think was, “This is it.”

travel & culture SEOUL 43

travel

places to eat in suncheon Blank (061) 727-0160 Jorye-dong Serving up some of Suncheon’s best Western-style food, this hip, sleek-looking restaurant and café is a favorite with the local foreign community. Try the honey chicken or grilled mushroom sandwich (11,000 won), then wash it down with a berry mix or mango smoothie (5,300 won). Still hungry? Order up a piece of homemade tiramisu to top it off (5,000 won).

Palma Orirang (061) 721-5271 Jorye-dong If duck is your dish, then you have to try the “duck bulgogi ” (30,000 won) at this Korean favorite. Be sure to bring a few friends because it will be hard to finish off this rather large meal if there are just two of you.

San Antonio Latin Bistro (061) 724-2234 Jorye-dong For a little slice of Mexico and Spain in a friendly atmosphere, look no further than San Antonio. Owner José Rosal was born and raised in Spain before immigrating to Canada. He met his Korean wife while in college in Hawaii and has been living in Korea for 10 years now. The menu has many Mexican favorites like burritos and quesadillas (8,000—10,000 won).

However, if you are lucky enough to be there on a Friday, then José will cook up a real Spanish paella (minimum of four people, order in advance). Be sure to try the sangria too. Delicioso !

Where to Stay Bali Motel Jogok-dong

44 SEOUL November 2010

T. (061) 741-2200 Suncheon has a number of cheaper lodging options that are mainly “love motels.” Walk out of the train station and turn right. Head down the street about two minutes and you will see the sign for this motel. Rooms are 30,000—60,000 won per night.

Ivy Motel Jorye-dong T. (061) 724-7878 This is another standard love motel, but in the newer part of the city. Room rates run from 40,000 to 60,000 Won. Naganeupsong Folk Village T. (061) 749-3347 (English spoken) Take bus No. 63 or 68 from the main bus terminal.

Take a step back in time and sleep in a traditional Korean house for a night. This folk village boasts 29 traditional houses with a total of 79 rooms. A room for one costs 30,000 won, and a double is 50,000 won.

Call in advance to make a reservation.

Getting there By bus: There are 21 buses a day from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal (Gangnam) to Suncheon. The travel time is about 5 hours.

By train: Four Saemaeul-class and 11 Mugunghwaclass trains leave Seoul’s Yongsan Station each day for Suncheon. Direct journeys take a little under five hours.

By plane: There are 8 daily flights to Yeosu Airport (a 40 minute drive to Suncheon)—travel time 50 minutes.

To Suncheon Bay: take bus No. 67 from the train or bus station directly to the bay—about 25 minutes.

A taxi from the bus station to the bay will cost about 10,000 won.

Reed boardwalk: the touristy bit

Websites and numbers of interest Suncheon City: www.suncheon.go.kr Suncheon Station Tourist Information: (061) 7493107 Suncheon Bay Information: (061) 749-3006, www. suncheonbay.go.kr

Other points of interest Chances are that if you make a weekend of your trip to Suncheon, you will have more time to visit other sites. Fortunately, the city offers many things to do and see. Here are just a few: Naganeupseong Folk Village T. (061) 749-3347 www.nagan.or.kr During the Joseon Dynasty in 1397, General Kim Bin-kil ordered his troops to build walls around this village to protect the residents from the Japanese invasion. Today, you can see thatched-roof houses similar to those from that era, along with fortress walls.

Songgwangsa Temple T. (061) 755-0107 www.songgwangsa.org This is one of the three most important temples in Korea. A must-see for any Buddhism buff. Another popular but lesser-known temple in the area is Seonamsa.

Suncheon City Tour www.suncheon.go.kr New Samwoo Travel Agency: (061) 742-5200 Price: 9,000 won This bus tour runs from Monday to Friday and goes to all the major sites. There is also a more expensive “Eco Tour” that operates on the weekend. See website for more info.

Tel 02 722 5622 fax 02 722 5623 Opening hours 11:30 a.m.~11:30 p.m.(Closed on Sunday) N°85 Susong-dong Jongno-Gu Seoul Korea Somerset Palace 1F, Exit 1 ortravel 6 from Anguk Station, Line 3 & culture SEOUL 45

special report i

A NEW STEP iNTO iT fUTUrE ICT Convergence can make Korea the environmental leader of the world Written by Emanuel Yi Pastreich | Images courtesy of Loop.pH and LG Electronics

R

ecently, there has been discussion about environmentally friendly ICT (information and communications technology) in Korea. The focus falls on energy-efficient electronic devices and a new generation of smart grids in which electricity will be directed by computers to avoid waste. But there has been a hesitation to take the plunge, to embrace ICT as the central medium for resolving the pressing issue of our time: the massive consumption of fossil fuels for the transportation required by our modern life. If Korea can bring together its expertise in multiple technological fields to make Internet-mediated exchange so effective that the need to commute by car or plane is eliminated, it can become the leading nation in the fight to preserve the environment and reduce energy usage.

paradigm shift We consume massive amounts of energy for transportation, but we cannot eliminate the need to cooperate globally. We can, however, reduce the energy consumption needed for such cooperation. So far, much of communications technology has been focused on entertainment.

Now, we need to make it an essential tool for a massive paradigm shift in society, reducing the need to be present by using a combination of technological, cultural, and psychological factors.

46 SEOUL November 2010

ICT technologies still cannot replace the experience of actually meeting someone in person. If we focus on the technical and cultural barriers that exist, we can accomplish a lot.

raising standards, lowering barriers Displays must have far better quality and be mimetically accurate. 3-D graphics should be effectively employed, not as an amusing special effect, but as a means of permitting more realistic communication between people via the Internet. Sound reproduction and recording technologies must be more responsive to make interactions natural. All these advances will reduce the primary barrier to ICT as a means of serious communications: the fact that it seems artificial, complicated, and confining.

Resistance to working remotely also involves complex psychological and biological issues. We must discover the most effective manner for the hand, eye, and ear to interact effectively with the computer. When we identify the critical visual and aural cues for effective human perception, we can create an environment in which it seems like one is actually â&#x20AC;&#x153;there.â&#x20AC;? The challenge goes far beyond computer engineering, extending to neurology, physiology, culture, and history.

Korea can be successful in this field precisely because it has a broad range of expertise in so many different fields.

"Camalonian Columns" installation by Loop.pH. kew Gardens, 2008.

A step towards digital reality: LG's infina 3D PDP TV

death of distance?

We must identify the cultural signifiers that suggest that an Internet interaction is of significance. For example, the design of the room should be integrated with the device used for Internet communication to seem as comfortable as possible. Perhaps the computer itself should be made of wood and stone to give it that “natural feel.” In any case, we must determine why exactly it is that seeing someone on a screen is not the same as meeting them and, one by one, figure out ingenious strategies to mitigate those deficiencies.

Frances Cairncross first spoke of a “death of distance” resulting from the ICT revolution ten years ago. We are on the threshold of that breakthrough today. For Korea, the next stage of green growth means going beyond selling a specific product to create a comprehensive system encompassing multiple technologies that permits effective communication. If Korea can effectively seize this opportunity, it will be the green leader of this century.

reproducing sensations There are cultural barriers to making conversation via Internet seem significant, and

not just a medium for chats between grandparents and infants à la Skype. The biggest challenge is the seeming unnaturalness of the computer-based conversation. The other person's image should feel as much like a part of the natural environment as possible. We cannot eliminate the screen, but we can surround it with plants, wood, stone, or plaster so that it appears more like a window between two worlds and less like a program running on a computer. After all, if the person we are addressing pops up on the same computer that we use to email our boss, pay our taxes, and fill out travel reports, the associations will inevitably be less than perfect. But if that person 5,000 kilometers away appears to us as life-sized and seems to be sitting in a chair just across the table, the illusion will be perfect.

Perhaps it is ultimately necessary to shake hands with the other person in a conversation, to pat them on the back, in order for the meeting to seem real. With a bit of technological innovation, that effect is entirely possible. Perhaps the combination of 3E Glasses and devices to reproduce tactile sensations will eventually make it possible for the participants in the conversation to feel as if they are literally in the same space.

Emanuel Pastreich currently serves as Director of the Asia Institute at the Solbridge International School of Business in Daejeon, Korea. The Asia Institute coordinates cooperation between institutions throughout Asia to deal with contemporary issues in Asia, with a focus on the environment, technology, and culture.

Pastreich writes on the environment, technology policy, globalization, Sino-American relations, the Korean Peninsula, and business in Asia for such journals as Japan Focus, Foreign Policy in Focus, the Asia Times, the Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies, and the Northeast Asia Peace and Security Daily Report of the Nautilus Institute. He is a regular contributor to MK News, Korea’s leading business daily.

Pastreich serves as advisor for investment to the Mayor of Daejeon Metropolitan City and as a member of the city’s advisory board for internationalization. He consults for Daedeok Innopolis, Korea’s premier technology cluster, assisting in international relations and technology policy, and for several other scientific institutes.

travel & culture SEOUL 47

Seoul dining for beginners

First Encounters With Korean Food

SEOUL's Editor-in-Chief, Robert Koehler, offers a select handful of Korean restaurant recommendations for absolute novices.

All restaurants marked in Maps & Guides by

Korean Meat Dishes

Popular Korean meat dishes include galbi (ribs, either beef or pork), bulgogi (marinated beef grilled atop an open flame) and samgyeopsal (Korean-style bacon). Meat is typically eaten wrapped in a lettuce leaf with condiments.

Gogung T. (02) 736-3211 Hours: 11am—9pm Prices: Around 10,000 won Getting There: Exit 6, Anguk Station, Line 3. Located in the basement of Ssamji-gil in Insa-dong.

The southwestern city of Jeonju does the best bibimbap in Korea. Gogung is the next best option.

Bamboo House T. (02) 555-6390 Hours: 11:30am—2:30pm, 5:30pm—10:30pm Prices: 40,000 won and up Getting There: Exit 7, Yeoksam Station, Line 2.

Walk 10 minutes in the direction of Gyeonbok Apartments (or take a cab — if you’re eating here, money is clearly not an issue).

Pricey; does some of Korea's best barbecue and grill in a multilingual setting. Housed in a stunning Frank Gehryesque building.

Bon Bibimbap T. (02) 736-4288 Hours: 9:30 am—10pm Prices: Under 10,000 won Getting There: Exit 3, Jonggak Station, Line 1. Walk toward Tapgol Park. Hang a left right before the park. Gogung is right there, across from the park, near the entrance to Insa-dong.

The flagship store of this chain does an assortment of bibimbap at reasonable prices.

Soups and Stews

Many tasty options include doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew), kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), sundubu jjigae (tofu stew), seolleongtang (milky beef soup) and samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup).

Maple Tree House T. (02) 730-7461 Hours: 11:30am—10pm Prices: Around 30,000 won Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3. Walk about 20 minutes along Samcheong-dong Road—the restaurant is near Korea Banking Institute.

Samgyeopsal with a beautiful wooded garden in Samcheong-dong.

Bibimbap Simple dish of rice mixed with seasoned vegetables and red pepper sauce. Gwyneth Paltrow likes it. Served in a metal/plastic bowl or a stone pot (dolsot bibimbap ).

Toetmarujip Doenjang Yesul T. (02) 739-5683 Hours: 10:30am—10pm Prices: 10,000—20,000 won Getting There: Exit 5, Jongno 3-ga Station, Line 5. Enter Insa-dong. Face the Seoho Art Gallery at the Insa-dong Intersection and make a left into the alleyway.

Hearty North Korean-style doenjang jjigae; traditional ambiance. Particularly popular is the doenjang bibimbap (rice mixed with vegetables and soybean-paste stew).

Tobang T. (02) 735-8156 Hours: 10:30am—10pm Prices: Around 5,000 won Getting There: Exit 6, Anguk Station, Line 3. Enter Insa-dong. Tobang is on the left.

Standard Korean fair like kimchi jjigae, dubu jjigae and doenjang jjigae. Also famous for its marinated crab side dish.

48 SEOUL November 2010

Cheolgil Wang Galbisal T. (02) 332-9543 Hours: 24 hours Prices: Around 25,000 won Getting There: Exit 5, Hongik University Station, Line 2. Walk 20 minutes in the direction of the Sanollim Theater—the restaurant is in the alley across from it.

Wonderful beef galbi; outstanding bean-paste stew. Very popular.

Bukchon Gamasot Seolleongtang T. (02) 725-7355 Hours: 11:00am—10:30pm Prices: 6,000—10,000 won Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3. Located in alley in front of Jeongdok Public Library.

Korean traditional building.

Specializes in seolleongtang; also has good manduguk (dumpling soup) and other dishes. Food served on Korean traditional ceramics.

Jiho Hanbang Samgyetang T. (02) 916-3999 Hours: 11am—10pm Prices: 12,000—14,000 won Getting There: Exit 2, Mia Samgeori Station, Line 4. Walk 10 minutes to Dongseong Car Inspection.

Samgyetang is a Korean summer specialty. A young chicken is stuffed with rice and boiled in a broth of ginseng, jujube, garlic and ginger.

Myeong-dong Gyoja T. (02) 776-5348 Hours: 10:30am—9:30pm Prices: Under 10,000 won Getting There: Exit 4, Euljiro 4-ga Station, Line 5.

Swing a right at the first alley.

Quite possibly the best Pyongyang-style naengmyeon outside of North Korea. This legendary eatery also does outstanding meat dishes but is highly expensive.

Choice of mul naengmyeon (served in a mild, chilled beef broth) or bibim naengmyeon (served with spicy red pepper sauce).

Jaha Son Mandu T. (02) 379-2648 Hours: 11am—9pm Prices: Around 10,000—35,000 won Getting There: Exit 5 of Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3.

Take a taxi from there, as it’s a long walk.

This place in lovely Buam-dong does a variety of mandu dishes.

Hanjeongsik/Palace Cuisine

Hanjeongsik is a full-course Korean meal featuring rice, soup and a table full of side dishes; palace cuisine is Korean traditional cooking at its most sublime.

Sanchon T. (02) 735-0312 Hours: 11am—10pm Prices: 22,000 won (lunch), 39,600 won (dinner) Getting There: There: Exit 6, Anguk Station, Line 3.

Head down Insa-dong and turn left into the alley at Atelier Seoul. Sanchon is at the end of the alley.

One of the ten best restaurants in Asia, according to the Asia Wall Street Journal in 2007. Run by a Buddhist monk. Temple cuisine accompanied by Korean traditional music and dancing.

Woo Lae Oak T. (02) 2265-0151 Hours: 11:30am—10pm Prices: 10,000 and up Getting There: Exit 4, Euljiro 4-ga Station, Line 5. Swing a right at the first alley.

Quite possibly the best Pyongyang-style naengmyeon outside of North Korea. This legendary eatery also does outstanding meat dishes but is highly expensive. Choice of mul naengmyeon (served in a mild, chilled beef broth) or bibim naengmyeon (served with spicy red pepper sauce).

Dalhangari T. (02) 733-7902 Hours: 11:30am—10pm Prices: Around 25,000 won Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3. Walk along Samcheong-dong road until you get to the Prime Minister’s Residence. Dalhangari is in front of it.

Organic Korean home-style hanjeongsik that is both tasty and good for you.

Dumplings and Noodles

Korea does a number of unique noodle dishes, including kalgukgsu (knife-cut wheat noodles in a rich broth) and naengmyeon (chilled buckwheat noodles). Mandu (Korean-style dumplings) are also popular.

Yongsusan T. (02) 732-3019 Hours:noon—3pm/6pm—10pm Prices: 38,000—125,000 won Getting There: Exit 3, Anguk Station, Line 3. Walk towards Changdeokgung Palace, and swing a left.

Keep walking till you see Yongsusan on your left.

Goryeo-style royal cuisine served in a beautiful setting.

Highly recommended.

Goongyeon T. (02) 3673-1104 Hours: noon—9pm Prices: 30,000—92,000 won Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3.

Turn right at Anguk Intersection and walk to Jaedong Elementary School. Swing a left at the intersection across from the school.

Run by a master chef who studied old manuscripts to rediscover proper Korean court cuisine.

Seokparang T. (02) 395-0265 Hours: noon—3pm/6pm—10pm Prices: Around 45,000—100,000 won Getting There: Exit 3, Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3. Take Bus 0212, 1020, 1711, 7018 or 7022 to Sangmyung University. The restaurant is a Koreanstyle building near there.

Housed in a Joseon-era villa, this lovely eatery specializes in Joseon royal cuisine, served on antique ceramics.

Baru (Temple Stay Information Center) T. (02) 2031-2081 Hours: 11am—2:30pm, 5:30pm—9pm Prices: 25,000—50,000 won Getting There: Exit 2, Jonggak Station, Line 1. Walk 70m to Jogyesa Temple. The Temple Stay Information Center is across the street.

On the fifth floor of the Temple Stay Information Center. Serves Buddhist temple cuisine.

Quick Korean Eats Don’t have time for a full meal?

There are plenty of places to score low priced, quickly served food like gimbap (rice rolls), ramyeon (instant noodles) and tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes).

Gimbap Cheonguk Hours: 24 hours Prices: Under 5,000 won A chain with shops almost everywhere, this place serves good, cheap Korean fare, including gimbap , and noodle dishes.

Vegetarian

Korea probably could not in fairness be called a paradise for vegetarians, but vegetarian food can be scored if you know where to look.

Sindang Tteokbokki Alley Hours: 24 hours Prices: 10,000—20,000 won Alleyway near Sindang Station lined with restaurants doing tteokbokki, one of Seoul’s signature dishes. Rice cakes pan-fried with a spicy red pepper sauce, vegetables, dumplings and noodles: cheap, filling and tasty.

travel & culture SEOUL 49

hotel news W autumn collection by Chef Thomas W Pantry, purveyor of top-quality chocolate, pastries, wine, and more, presents a collection of autumn desserts courtesy of bakery supremo Chef Thomas. Choose from “chocolate” (dark chocolate cappuccino mousse, caramel crunch, milk chocolate ganache), “orange & grapefruit” (Jeju orange bavarois, grapefruit jelly and mousse, citrus segments) and “pumpkin & chestnut”

(pumpkin cream cheese tart, chestnut mousse, caramelized chestnut, sugar dough). If ever there were a chance to enjoy autumn 101% with all five of your senses, this is it.

When: Until Dec 14 How much: 6,000 each (excl tax) Contact: (02) 2022-0111

Caviar and fresh oyster special menu If you need something tasty to go well with your c h a m p a g n e a n d v o d k a , l o o k n o f u r t h e r.

Throughout this and next month, Park Hyatt’s flagship Timber House restaurant is offering a special menu featuring premium French caviar and Osole oysters farmed in Korea from French stock. Choose from caviar served on ice, caviartopped sushi, a platter of fresh oysters garnished with a choice of four sauces and fresh lemon, crispy deep-fried oysters with wasabi dipping sauce, and a refreshing miso nabe with boiled-up

G20 Hanjeong course menu Hanjeongsik is the name of one of the highlights of Korea’s diverse cuisine: the multi-course spread of meat, fish, soups, rice, and too many vegetable side dishes to mention. A good hanjeongsik is enough to enamor anyone of Korean food for life.

To mark the much-anticipated G20 meeting in Korea this month, the Imperial Palace hotel is o ff e r i n g a s p e c i a l h a n j e o n g s i k m e n u — a

Autumn Package

/ JW Marriott Seoul, Banpo-dong organic salad bar, Korean food section, shabu shabu corner, live station, pasta corner, sushi and sashimi section, and dessert corner. The Café@ JW will present traditional Jeju Province cuisine from Nov 1 to 14.

When: Ongoing How much: Lunch 46,000/48,000 won weekdays/ weekends. Dinner 52,000 won all week. Prices excl tax and service.

Contact: (02) 6282-6731

/ Imperial Palace Hotel, Gangnam contemporary reinterpretation of traditional hanjeongsik dishes by its very own head chef.

When: Nov 1—30 How much: 72,000—93,000 won (excl tax and service; reservation must be made at least one day in advance) Contact: (02) 3440-8000 or www.imperialpalace.co.kr

/ Sheraton Grande Walkerhill, Mt. Achasan

Enjoy the colorful leaves of Mt. Achasan and a fantastic view of the Hangang River while spending time with your loved ones. The Autumn Package includes special activities like an aquarobics class, a tennis class, or a leisurely stroll through the mountains with professional trainers. The starting rate for the package is 150,000 won, which includes a one-night stay at

50 SEOUL November 2010

/ The Timber House, Park Hyatt, Daechi-dong

fresh oysters, tofu, mushrooms, and leek. Wash it all down with champagne such as Dom Perignon, Moët & Chandon, Pol Roger, or Veuve Clicquot.

When: Nov 1—Dec 31 How much: Oyster dishes from 39,000 won, caviar dishes from 110,000 won, vodka and champagne from 19,000 won per glass. Prices incl service, excl tax.

Contact: (02) 2016-1291

New Café at JW Marriott Seoul On Sept 20, JW Marriott Seoul took the wraps off a one-month, US$1 million makeover. What was the Marriott Café, a conventional hotel buffet restaurant, is now The Café@JW, a sleeker, more health-conscious dining extravaganza. Guest comfort and customized service were the prime motivations for The Café@JW’s designers. For example, there are now private dining rooms available for parties of two to 16 desiring a more intimate setting.

The Café@JW buffet section consists of an

/ W Seoul, Mt. Achasan

Walkerhill’s Douglas House, free entrance to the Refresh Zone, and opportunities for other outdoor activities with two complimentary well-being drinks.

When: Until Nov 30 How much: 150,000 or 216,000 won (two grades of package available) Contact: (02) 2022-0000

New Japanese sous-chef for Chinese restaurant Millennium Seoul Hilton, Mt. Namsan

Taipan, Millennium Seoul Hilton’s Chinese restaurant, welcomes new sous-chef Teruaki Hideshima. Hideshima hails from Japan but has dedicated the last 16 years of his career to cooking Chinese cuisine. Hideshima’s innovative culinary talent has produced over 150 signature sauces, some of which even include local Korean ingredients such as fermented soybean paste, yuja (honeyed citron), and sikhye (fermented rice punch). Taipan will be showcasing a special menu full of the new sous-chef’s Hong Kong-style specialties.

When: Ongoing H ow mu c h : Va r i o u s prices. Special sevenand eight-course menus 90,000 and 1 2 5 , 0 0 0

w o n

respectively, excl tax and service.

Contact: (02) 317-3237

Macrobiotic cuisine

Ritz-Carlton, Yeoksam-dong

This November, the Ritz-Carlton, Seoul is featuring a special macrobiotic cuisine menu emphasizing the use of seasonal ingredients for healthy eating.

The menu includes organic brown rice risotto with wild mushroom tempura, yam and cereal steak with pickled cherry tomato, pan-caked acorn starch jelly with seaweed and grilled root vegetable salad, and simmered sliced tenderloin with blueberry onion tower. For dessert, there’s a great selection of well-being treats like pumpkin pudding, soybean cheesecake, and organic brown rice cake.

When: Until Nov 14 How much: Lunch set 58,000 won, dinner set 70,000 won (excl tax and service) Contact: (02) 3451-8271

Gourmet buffet restaurant ‘the SQUARE’ opens

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam

Designed by leading global American design company Wilson Associates, ‘the SQUARE’ has been completely refurbished with a mixture of cold and warm atmospheres, with combined finishing materials of metal, wood, and marble. It offers 210 seats with four private dining rooms to host any type of dining experience from family to business.

Led by newly appointed French Executive Chef M. Maurice Gerard Mosiniak, the SQUARE offers the finest cuisines from around the world (Korean, Chinese, Japanese, and Western), made from the freshest ingredients. The Open Kitchen features instant live dishes including a sushi and sashimi corner, pasta and pizza corner, grill corner, fried dish corner, dim sum corner, and noodle corner.

When: Ongoing H ow m u c h : B re a k f a s t 2 9 , 7 0 0 w o n , l u n c h 49,500/51,000 won weekdays/weekends, dinner 59,400 won weekdays and weekend. Prices incl tax and service.

travel & culture SEOUL 51

W style

NEW OUTFITS, FRESH STYLE

W Seoul-Walkerhill underscores ongoing commitment to fashion Photographs courtesy of W Seoul

Continuing its tradition of uncompromising style and novelty, W Seoul-Walkerhill has revealed a new set of custom-designed outfits for its “talents” (W’s own unique term for its employees). As the firstever hotel chain to appoint a Global Fashion Director—Amanda Ross—W is renowned for its commitment to creating its own distinct identity.

The hotel’s latest outfit designs are the work of SML Consulting designer Billy San and feature a blend of W’s sensual style and functionality. As such, they will both allow W’s talents to operate with new efficiency and create a fresh impression, in combination with the hotel’s unique atmosphere, for guests.

San, who graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design before going to work in

Hong Kong, has previously designed staff uniforms for the Opposite House boutique luxury hotel in Beijing and the St. Regis in Shanghai.

W’s general manager Nick Heath emphasizes the importance of fashion as part of the overall design that makes W distinct from other hotel brands.

“Fashion can provide another connection to our customers, who are always looking for something new,” he says. “W’s purpose itself is to create new experiences through design and style.”

Since the opening of its first hotel in New York ten years ago, W Hotels has launched a series of revolutionary fashion programs and partnerships. It hosted a backstage VIP lounge in Bryant Park at this y e a r ’s N e w Yo r k F a s h i o n We e k , f u r t h e r underscoring the link between hotels and fashion. It has collaborated for several years with elite names in fashion such as Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenberg, and Gwen Stefani. W New York cooperated with the department store Barneys New York and its creative director Simon Doonan to conceive the hotel’s own window display at the store on Union Square. W also redefined the traditional concept of hotel retail through the opening of the W Store at its hotels around the world and online (www.whotelsthestore.com), selling clothing, jewelry, accessories, household goods, and other items by famous designers.

W’s stunning restaurant Kitchen also currently boasts a new menu—now is the time to give it a visit and get a glimpse of the new talent outfits while you’re at it.

11 EVENT Calendar SUN

MON

TUE

WED

1

2

3

- Yundi Li Piano Recital (Seoul Arts Center)

- Artist of the Year (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts)

7

8

9

- The Masters of Korean Modern and Contemporary Art (63 Sky Art)

- 2010 Seoul International Acappella Festival (Various provinces in Korea)

- Multi Genre Music Theater: Namu (Arko Art Center) thru 10

14

- Park Byoung-choon— Landscape Painting (Savina Museum of Contemporary Art) thru Dec 3

10 - 7th Gunsan International Migratory Bird Festival 2010 (Gunsan-si, Jeollabuk-do) thru 14

17 - Media City Seoul 2010—Trust (Seoul Museum of Art and other venues)

- Round and Round Looking for Father (Guro Arts Valley) - Seoul, The City of Movies 7080 (Cheong Gye Cheon Museum) Flaming Lips—Live in Seoul

21 - The Cleveland Orchestra Concert (Seoul Arts Center)

- Gugak Concert, Dadam (NCKTPA)

- Korean Avant-Garde Drawing 1970-2000 (SOMA Museum of Art)

The Snowman

28

29

- Inside Paul Smith… His Art, His Photography, His World (Daelim Contemporary Art Museum)

- Jónsi— The 1st Live in Seoul (AX-Korea)

54 SEOUL November 2010

23

24 - The Snowman (Hoam Art Hall) thru Dec 31

30 - Special Korean War 60th Anniversary Exhibition (War Memorial of Korea)

+

THU

FRI

SAT

4

5

- Rainbow Asia (Seoul Arts Center) thru Dec 5

For detailed info on the events, go to “Goings On Around Town.”

Blue color letters indicate closing date of event. -Ed

- Seoul Int’l Extreme-Short Image & Film Festival (Guro-gu) thru 11 - Seoul Lantern Festival (Cheonggyecheon) thru 14

11 - Korea Opera Group— Golden Opera-Opera Gala (Seoul Arts Center) thru 12

Performances

- Universal Ballet— La Bayadere (Seoul Arts Center)

Mew—Live in Seoul

12

13

- 2010 Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, Amsterdam (Seoul Arts Center) thru 13

- Israel Philharmonic Orchestra & Zubin Mehta (Seoul Arts Center) - Mew—Live in Seoul (AX-Korea) - Stone Jazz 'Crossover Korean Soul' (Changdeokgung Theater)

18 - Makgeolli Expo (COEX) thru 21

19

20

- 2010 Korea Ice Hockey League (Uijeongbu Ice Rink) thru 28

- Flaming Lips—Live in Seoul (AX-Korea) - Stone Jazz 'Crossover Korean Soul' (Changdeokgung Theater)

25 - The 9th Seoul International Café Show 2010 (COEX) thru 28

Long Running Performances & Exhibitions

26

27

- Paju Jangdan Soybean Festvial (Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do) thru 28

- Kim Sun-wook Piano Recital (Seoul Arts Center)

- Billy Elliot (LG Arts Center), Open run

Exhibitions - National Geographic Photo Exhibit (Seoul Arts Center) thru Dec 8 - Gold Crown, a Symbol of Silla (National Museum of Korea) thru Feb 13, 2011 - Da Vinci, the Genius (War Memorial of Korea) thru Feb 27, 2011 - Picasso and Modern Art (National Museum of Art. Deoksugung) thru Mar 1, 2011

The Cleveland Orchestra Concert

travel & culture SEOUL 55

Goings on Around Town

Upcoming Events

Israel Philharmonic Orchestra & Zubin Mehta

p.60

National Geographic Photo Exhibit

PREVIEW p.66

Seoul International ExtremeShort Image & Film Festival

p.68

Originally formed as the Palestine Orchestra in 1930s Europe, when Jews were subject to increasing persecution and being fired by various orchestras, the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra has built up a formidable reputation in the ensuing decades. This November in Seoul, IPO Music Director Zubin Mehta conducts renowned Korean pianist Kun-Woo Paik in a program that includes Rachmaninoff, Mahler and Stravinsky.

National Geographic—the magazine everyone loves for its impossibly good images by men and women who disappear into the Antarctic and Amazon for months at a time to emerge with films and memory cards full of photographic gems. This exhibition of National Geographic photos, entitled “Life & Nature,” takes in themes such as natural ecosystems, their destruction and efforts to rebuild them.

Back for a second time after opening last year as Asia’s first ever extreme short film festival, SESIFF goes by the motto that anyone can make a film, and a film can be watched anywhere. If you want to explore the new cinematic possibilities opened by threeminute films recorded on devices as diverse as DSLR cameras and mobile phones, this is the festival for you.

Universal Ballet—La Bayadere

p.60

Multi Genre Music Theater: Namu p.62

Gold Crown, a Symbol of Silla

Choreographed by Marius Petipa to music

by Ludwig Minkus, “La Bayadere” tells a story of love between Indian temple dancer Nikiya and warrior Solor, accompanied by plenty of jealousy, intrigue, murder and opium smoking. Korea’s Universal Ballet Company promises to give a stunning performance of this late-19th century tale of opulent and exotic fantasy.

To mark the hosting of the G20 Summit this November, the Korea Foundation and Arts Council Korea are jointly holding a performance and an exhibition on the themes of “green growth” and “the environment.” The various events will address global issues such as “the environment,” “poverty” and “disease,” demonstrating Korea’s will to contribute, as a developed nation, to international society.

The multi-genre musical theater piece “Namu” (“Tree”) addresses issues of green growth and water.

A Silla period (57BC—935AD) golden crown and belt, two of Korea’s most valuable historic artifacts, are on display in Seoul for the first time in 36 years. Excavated from a royal tomb known as Cheonmachong in the ancient Silla capital, Gyeongju, the crown and belt are similar in form to those found in other nearby Silla tombs and offer a fascinating insight into the high standard of gold craftsmanship and jewelry design that existed at the time.

56 SEOUL November 2010

p.58

Seoul Metropolitan Dance Theatre—'Samiingok'

p.64

Following its acclaimed reinterpretation of Tchaikovsky’s popular “Swan Lake” through Korean traditional dance forms this May, Seoul Metropolitan Dance Theater is back with song and dance-based production “Samiingok.” The first in a series of dance plays that introduces quintessentially Korean topics and characters, “Samiingok” is based on the Korean gasa poetry genre, specifically the works of 16th century poet Jeong Cheol, who is regarded as the master of gasa.

Stone Jazz “Crossover Korean Soul”

p.64

Taking place at Changdeokgung Sogeukjang (“small theater”), a venue just a stone’s throw from UNESCO World Heritage site Changdeokgung Palace, this performance features the innovative music of pianist and composer Onesoo Lee and Stone Jazz, a professional Korean traditional music-jazz crossover band. Come and hear what happens you pour jazz, Korean traditional, classical, modern, Eastern and Western genres into one big bowl called “Ultimate Music.”

Hwang Byung-ki—Music and Life p.64

Makgeolli Expo

Perhaps the greatest living player of of the gayageum (12-stringed zither), Hwang Byung-ki boasts a career spanning 50 years.

It is this experience and intimate knowledge of a bygone age and its music that Hwang presents to younger listeners today in “Music and Life.” This is an opportunity to witness the magical sounds that the gayageum is capable of producing in the hands of a true master.

Korea’s rice surplus is a headache for the government, which is spending large amounts of money on storage while looking for alternative uses for it. Makgeolli (Korean rice beer) can cause headaches of its own but is nonetheless a highly popular drink today and a good way to use excess rice. It can be found anywhere from the humblest makeshift bar to some rather expensive establishments—head to COEX this November for all the latest makgeolli products, industry news and information.

Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Ros’ vocalist Jónsi makes a much-anticipated debut in Korea. This raw food vegan is not only a musical genius but has also worked together with his boyfriend Alex Somers to produce much of the graphic design for Sigur Ros and their albums. While other Sigur Ros are taking a break to be with new families, Jónsi is on a creative spree that led to this April’s well-received solo album “Go.” That’s what his current tour is all about.

The Snowman

Comic Theater: Round and Round Looking for Father

Ice Hockey

p.62

One of the best-loved of all English children’s books, Raymond Briggs’ “The Snowman” was published in 1978 and made into a short animated film four years later. Since then, it has captivated children and adults every Christmas with its fantasy tale of friendship between boy and snowman, rendered in Briggs’ characteristic pencil crayon shades.

Now the highly acclaimed musical, which has been running since 1993, comes to Korea thanks to the Birmingham Repertory Theatre.

p.68

p.64

Korea’s first ever comedy play based on the traditional art of beonanori (an art similar to plate spinning) tells a story of personal growth on the part of its heroine, a young girl named Bulgeunjeom (“Red Spots”).

Bulgeunjeom’s story begins when her mother dies after giving birth to her and she is abandoned in a remote pine wood. The show is a comedy, however, and suitable for all the family.

Jónsi— The 1st Live in Seoul

p.63

p.68

The slap of stick on puck, the gliding blades and flying fists: ice hockey may not one of Korea’s best-known sports, but if you head to Mok-dong Ice Rink on November 8—14, or Uijeongbu Ice Rink on November 19—26, you can watch two of the country’s top matches for free. A great chance both for enthusiasts to catch some high quality playing and for novices to get acquainted with this unique sport.

travel & culture SEOUL 57

Goings on Around Town

Museums Seoul, The City of Movies 7080 Cheong Gye Cheon Museum Thru Nov 14 Free (02) 2286-3410 Wangsimni Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line), 2 & 5, Exit 7.

Transfer to maeul bus No. 3 or 8. Get off at Seoul Metropolitan Facilities Management Corporation.

Buncheong Ware Ritual Vessels

The Painting and Calligraphy of Yi Insang

Horim Museum Sinsa, Horim Art Center Thru Nov 28

National Museum of Korea Thru Dec 5

Adults: 4,000 won, Students: 2,000 won (02) 541-3523~5 Gangnam-gu Office Station, Line 7, Exit 3. Turn around and go left at the corner. Walk straight and cross the road at Hak-dong Intersection.

Go left and walk straight. The center is located on your right.

Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Experience Exhibitions of Automata and Optical Toys Kokdu Museum Thru Nov 30

National Museum of Korea Thru Nov 14 Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

A Dagger and Gold Scabbard from the West: The Excavation of Gyerim-ro Tomb No. 14, Gyeongju National Museum of Korea Thru Nov 21 Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Masterpieces of Goryeo Buddhist Painting National Museum of Korea Thru Nov 21 Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

58 SEOUL November 2010

Ancient Japanese Culture Special Exhibit Seoul National University Museum Thru Feb 28, 2011

Tomb Murals of the Four Guardian Deities from Gangseojungmyo National Museum of Korea Thru Nov 28

White Porcelain Jars— Embracing the Joseon Ideals and Rituals

Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Adults: 5,000 won, Children: 3,000 won (02) 766-3315 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

Turn right by CONUS. Walk 100m toward the hill on your right.

Dongsoong Art Center is located on your left. The museum is on the 2nd fl.

Special Korean War 60th Anniversary Exhibition

Czech Jewellery: Lovers from Prague World Jewellery Museum Thru Dec 30 Adults: 5,000 won, Students: 3,000 won (02) 730-1610 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk in the direction of Jeongdok Public Library. Walk straight through the alley next to the entrance of the library. Turn left at Coffee Factory.

The museum is located on your right.

Treasures of the Vietnamese Imperial House National Palace Museum of Korea Nov 9, 2010—Feb 6, 2011 Free (02) 3701-7500 Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk 5 minutes.

War Memorial of Korea Thru Nov 30 Adults: 5,000 won, Youths: 3,000 won, Children: 2,000 won (02) 709-3139 Walk 3 minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 6, Exits 11 & 12, or 5 minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

Beijing, Seoul, Tokyo (BESETO) Seoul Museum of History Nov 3—Dec 5 Adults (ages 20—64): 700 won, Others: Free (02) 724-0114 Seodaemun Station, Line 5, Exit 4.

Walk 300m.

Others: Free (02) 330-8899 At Sinchon Station, Line 2, Exit 1 (toward Donggyo-dong), transfer to bus No. 110 or 7720. At Exit 3 (in front of Sinchon Rotary), transfer to green bus No. 03. At Hongje Station, Line 3, Exit 3 (toward Muakjae), transfer to bus No. 7738 or 7739.

Free (02) 880-5333 Seoul National University Station, Line 2, Exit 3. Take green bus No. 5511. Get off in front of SNU Business School.

Hamheung: The Hometown of Yi Seong-gye, The Founder and First King of the Joseon Dynasty National Museum of Korea Nov 23, 2010—Mar 27, 2011

Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

20th Anniversary of Korea-Russia Diplomatic Relations: Journey to an Encounter National Folk Museum of Korea Nov 23, 2010—March, 2011 Free (02) 3704-3114 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1 or Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along Samcheongdong Street. The museum is located on the left. Green bus No. 11 is available.

Ethnic Earthenware from Asia's Heart Gold Crown, A Symbol of Silla National Museum of Korea Thru Feb 13, 2011 Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Mystery of the Shark Seodaemun Museum of Natural History Thru Feb 27, 2011 Adults: 3,000 won, Youths (ages 13—18): 2,000 won, Children (ages 6—12): 1,000 won,

National Museum of Korea Thru Sep 11, 2011 Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Grossology— The (Impolite) Science of the Human Body War Memorial of Korea Open Run

A: 60,000 won, B: 40,000 won 1577-5266 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

12,000 won (02) 541-3174 Walk 3 minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 6, Exits 11 & 12, or 5 minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

Mapo Arts Center Nov 10, 8pm R: 70,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 3274-8600 Daeheung Station, Line 6, Exit 2.

Go straight and turn right at the intersection.

Nov 12—13, 8pm R: 420,000 won, S: 320,000 won, A: 220,000 won, B: 120,000 won, C: 60,000 won (02) 6303-7700 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Korea Opera Group— Golden OperaOpera Gala

Classical Music

Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Nov 11—12, 7:30pm VIP: 180,000 won, R: 150,000 won, S: 120,000 won, A: 70,000 won, B: 30,000 won (02) 587-1950 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Itzhak Perlman Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct 26, 8pm VIP: 200,000 won, R: 180,000 won, S: 140,000 won, A: 100,000 won, B: 80,000 won (02) 790-7558 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Kevin Kern— Return to Love

Classical Frontier Series: Percussion Duo Moitié Kumho Art Hall Nov 4, 8pm R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won (02) 6303-7700 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7. Walk 200m in the direction of Seodaemun.

2010 Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, Amsterdam (with Mariss Jansons) Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

David Russell Guitar Recital Hoam Art Hall Nov 13, 5pm R: 70,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 541-3183 City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 9. Walk for 5 minutes. The hall is located inside of the Joongang Ilbo bldg.

Andy McKee Guitar Concert Olympus Hall Nov 5—6, 8pm

2010 Seoul International Acappella Festival Various provinces in Korea, including venues such as Guro Arts Valley, Youngsan Art Center, and Seoul Art Center Oct 30—Nov 8 Around 30,000—70,000 won (02) 766-7085 http://cafe.naver.com/kacs1

R: 55,000 won, S: 33,000 won (02) 522-1886 Samseong Station, Line 2, Exit 5, or Seolleung Station, Line 2, Exit 8.

Transfer to bus No. 4428 and get off at Platinum Apt.

Orchestra Città di Firenze— Toyota Classics 2010 Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Nov 5, 8pm R: 60,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 720-3933 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Alexander Melnikov Piano Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Nov 6, 8pm

Yundi Li Piano Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Nov 1, 8pm R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won,

R: 70,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won, B: 20,000 won (02) 888-2698 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

The Cleveland Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Nov 21, 8pm

R: 280,000 won, S: 220,000 won, A: 160,000 won, B: 110,000 won, C: 70,000 won Tickets: http://ticket.interpark.com/global (02) 599-5743 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Formed in 1918, the Cleveland Orchestra has grown to be recognized as one of the Big 5 orchestras not only of the United States but also the whole world. The orchestra is said to have the most “European” sound of any in the USA, which is lucky because its program at this Seoul performance consists of three works by European composers: Debussy’s Prelude to Afternoon of a Faun, Mozart’s Divertimento in D, K136 and Bruckner’s Symphony No.7.

The orchestra is conducted by Franz Welser-Most, a relatively young conductor currently enjoying success across the Pacific. His first encounter with Korean fans was when he conducted soprano Jo Sumi and the London Philharmonic here in 1995.

travel & culture SEOUL 59

Goings on Around Town Israel Philharmonic Orchestra & Zubin Mehta

3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Nov 13, 8pm

Korea National Opera— Lulu

R: 350,000 won, S: 280,000 won, A: 200,000 won, B: 140,000 won, C: 70,000 won (02) 751-9607 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Nov 25—28, 8pm VIP: 150,000 won, R: 120,000 won, S: 90,000 won, A: 60,000 won, B: 30,000 won, C: 10,000 won (02) 586-5282 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Kim Sun-wook Piano Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Nov 27, 8pm

Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra— Hope Dream Concert Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Nov 14, 7:30pm S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won, B: 20,000 won, C: 10,000 won 1588-1210 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Russian Maestro Night, Pianist Vadim Rudenko Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Nov 15, 8pm VIP: 150,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won (02) 461-6712 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Miriam Fried & Jonathan Biss— Beethoven’s Violin Sonatas Kumho Art Hall Nov 18—19 & 23, 8pm R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won (02) 6303-7700 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7. Walk 200m in the direction of Seodaemun.

2010 Tenor José Carreras Concert in Korea Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Nov 19, 8pm VIP: 250,000 won, R: 200,000 won, S: 150,000 won, A: 100,000 won, B: 50,000 won (02) 541-3183 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 60 SEOUL November 2010

R: 70,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 599-5743 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

The Mariinsky Ballet— Giselle Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si Nov 9—10, 7:30pm VIP: 250,000 won, R: 200,000 won, S: 150,000 won, A: 100,000 won, B: 50,000 won, C: 30,000 won 1577-7766 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

The Mariinsky Ballet— Swan Lake Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si Nov 12, 7:30pm / Nov 13, 7pm VIP: 250,000 won, R: 200,000 won, S: 150,000 won, A: 100,000 won, B: 50,000 won, C: 30,000 won 1577-7766 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si Nov 27, 7pm

Pianist Miroslav Kultyshev Invitational Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Nov 28, 8pm VIP: 150,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 40,000 won (02) 497-1973 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Dance Ballet: Universal Ballet— La Bayadère Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Oct 29—Nov 5, 7:30pm (weekdays), 3pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays) VIP: 100,000 won, R: 80,000 won, S: 60,000 won, A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won (070) 7124-1733 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won 1544-1555 Sindang Station, Line 6, Exit 9. Walk 50m in the direction of Dongdaemun Stadium.

Seopyeonje, The Musical Doosan Art Center Thru Nov 7, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays) Weekdays—S: 77,000 won, R: 88,000 won / Weekends— S: 88,000 won, R: 99,000 won (02) 708-5001~3 Jongno 5-ga Station, Line 1, Exit 1. Walk 30m along 5-ga pharmacy alley.

42nd Street Charlotte Theater Thru Nov 21, 8pm (Mon—Tue, Thu) / 3pm, 8pm (Wed, Fri— Sat)

Tenor Ian Bostridge

R: 90,000 won, S: 70,000 won 1577-7766 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Thru Nov 7, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays)

Modern Dance: Kim Sun-yi Project Group—Dusty Blue LIG Art Hall Nov 18—19, 8pm / Nov 20, 5pm 20,000 won (02) 2263-4680 Gangnam Station, Line 2, Exit 8.

Walk 100m. The hall is located opposite the Yeoksam District Tax Office.

Ballet: Korea National Ballet—Swan Lake Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Dec 7—10, 7:30pm / Dec 11, 3pm, 7:30pm / Dec 12, 3pm VIP: 100,000 won, R: 80,000 won, S: 60,000 won, A: 40,000 won, B: 10,000 won (02) 587-6181 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Musicals Rock Musical: Tick, Tick... BOOM! Chungmu Art Hall

VIP: 120,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won (02) 501-7888 Jamsil Station, Lines 2 & 8, Exit 3.

Walk straight beside Lotte Dept.

Store and cross the road. Walk straight and turn right.

The Sorrows of Young Werther Universal Arts Center Thru Nov 30, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 60,000 won, B: 40,000 won (02) 501-7888 Achasan Station, Line 5, Exit 4.

Walk 3 minutes.

The Great Gatsby Art One Theater Thru Dec 31, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 1577-2365 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2.

Walk along the KFC alley. Turn right in front of Beer Cabin.

travel & culture SEOUL 61

Goings on Around Town The Snowman Hoam Art Hall Nov 24—Dec 31, 11am (Tue, Thu) / 11am, 3pm (Wed, Sun) / 3pm, 7:30pm (Fri) / 1pm, 5pm (Sat) Snow seat: 55,000 won, Santa seat: 35,000 won (02) 751-9607~10, 1577-5266 City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 9. Walk for 5 minutes. The hall is located inside of the Joongang Ilbo bldg.

Radio Star Woori Art Hall, Olympic Park Nov 16, 2010—Jan 2, 2011, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) VIP: 90,000 won, R: 80,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 60,000 won (02) 556-5910 Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3.

Spamalot Kepco Art Center Thru Jan 2, 2011, 8pm (weekdays)/ 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won Tickets: http://ticket.interpark. com/global 1588-5212 Yangjae Station, Line 3, Exit 1.

Walk 200m in the direction of Nambu Bus Terminal. Turn left at Kumkang Shoe MFG bldg. Walk 150m and turn left.

The Musical Hero Main Hall Hae, National Theater of Korea Dec 4, 2010—Jan 15, 2011, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7:30pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6:30pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) VIP: 110,000 won, R: 90,000 won, OP: 80,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 40,000 won (02) 2250-5900 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ.

Station, Line 3, Exit 2, or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Billy Elliot LG Arts Center Open run, 8pm (weekdays) / 2pm, 7:30pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays) VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, OP: 90,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 50,000 won Tickets: http://ticket.interpark. com/global

62 SEOUL November 2010

(02) 3446-9630 GS Tower B1 fl. is directly connected to Yeoksam Station, Line 2, Exit 7. Take the LG Arts Center elevator from there.

Theater 2010 Korea Mime Festival (in Theater) Woosuk Repertory Theater Oct 26—Nov 7 Adults: 20,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won 0502-160-8000 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2. Go straight. Turn left along Marronnier Park. Turn right in front of Dongsung Church and turn left at the first alley.

Non-verbal Performance Festival: Korea in Motion Daegu Major theaters in Daegu (+Dongseongno Street) Nov 5—7 Large venue: 20,000 won, Small venue: 10,000 won (50% discount for foreigners) 1644-8415 www.koinmodaegu.com It takes two hours to get from Seoul Station to Daegu by KTX.

The 5th Theatre Olympics in Seoul Daehangno area, National Theater of Korea, Myeongdong Theater, Namsan Arts Center Thru Nov 7

33 Variations Dongsoong Art Center Thru Nov 28, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 766-3390 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

Turn right at CONUS. Walk 100m toward the hill on your right. The center is located on your left.

R: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 40,000 won 1544-1555 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Gyeongseong Star Daehangno Arts Theater Nov 19—28, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7:30pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun) R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won, A: 10,000 won (02) 763-1268 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2.

Walk along the KFC alley and turn left at the second corner.

Magic Show: Lee Eun-gyeol— The Illusion Chungmu Art Hall Nov 7—Dec 4, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7:30pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) VIP: 100,000 won, R: 80,000 won, S: 60,000 won, A: 30,000 won, VIP Package: 150,000 won (02) 2230-6600 Sindang Station, Line 6, Exit 9. Walk 50m in the direction of Dongdaemun Stadium.

Don Quixote Myeongdong Theater Dec 10, 2010—Jan 2, 2011, 7:30pm (weekdays) / 3pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays) R: 50,000 won, S: 35,000 won, A: 20,000 won 1644-2003 Euljiro 1-ga Station, Line 2, Exit 6.

Walk straight and turn left at the Myeong-dong entrance. Walk for a couple of minutes and you'll be able to find the theater on your left.

In May I’m Getting Married

Admission depends on program (02) 747-2903 www.theatreolympics.or.kr

Dongsoong Art Center Nov 2, 2010—Jan 30, 2011, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 6pm (Sat) / 2pm, 5pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays)

Multi-Genre Musical Theater: Namu Arko Art Center Nov 9—10, 8pm Free (on-site reservation required) (02) 3216-1185 www.greeNamu.com Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2.

Turn left and pass by Marronnier Park. The center is located on your right.

Korea Oct 30—Dec 31, 2pm (Tue, Wed) / 8pm (Thu) / 2pm, 8pm (Fri) / 2pm, 6pm (Sat) / 2pm (Sun)

Yi—King and the Clown

Seoul Performing Arts Festival 2010 (SPAF)

Sejong M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Nov 4—Dec 5, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays)

Arko Arts Theater, Seoul Arts Center, Sejong Center, Gwanghwamun Square, Namsan Arts Center, and other venues Thru Nov 14

R: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 40,000 won 1588-5212 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Admission depends on program (02) 3673-2561~4 www.spaf.or.kr

Take Care of Mom Theater Yong, National Museum of

35,000 won (02) 766-6007 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

Turn right at CONUS. Walk 100m toward the hill on your right. The center is located on your left.

Performance Show: Funtasy Artistan Hall Thru Jan 30, 2011, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays) 25,000 won (02) 548-1141 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

Walk 5 minutes toward Marronnier Park.

Concerts alva noto: xerrox l unitxt LIG Art Hall xerrox—Nov 3, 8pm / unitxt—Nov 4, 8pm 50,000 won 1544-3922 Gangnam Station, Line 2, Exit 8.

Walk 100m. The hall is located opposite Yeoksam District Tax Office.

Boney M— Time Machine 7080 Dom Art Hall, Children's Grand Park Nov 6, 4pm, 7:30pm VIP: 120,000 won, R: 99,000 won, S: 88,000 won, A: 77,000 won 1644-3031 Children's Grand Park Station, Line 7, Exit 1. Pass the gate and walk for 3 to 4 minutes.

Izumi & Sutoh Live in Seoul 2010 Sowol Art Hall

Nov 6, 7pm R: 45,000 won, S: 35,000 won 1566-1369 Wangsimni Station, Lines 1, 2 & 5, Exit 9.

Anne Kei— 1st Solo Live in Seoul KT&G Sangsang Madang Nov 20, 4pm, 8pm 45,000 won (02) 582-4098 Hongik Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 5.

Turn left and go two blocks. Walk through the Walkable Street on your right. Cross the road and go straight. The hall is located next to Luxury Su.

Shin Jung-hyun, The Godfather of Korea Rock Goyang Oulimnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si Nov 27, 7pm VIP: 88,000 won, R: 77,000 won, S: 66,000 won, A: 55,000 won (02) 741-0663

Flaming Lips—Live in Seoul AX-Korea Nov 20, 7pm

99,000 won Tickets: http://ticket.interpark.com/global info_english@mpmg.co.kr Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 2. Cross the road, turn left, and walk for 5 minutes. The hall is located behind the youth center.

Regular headliners at festivals around the world, the Flaming Lips are only now making their first visit to Korea. After forming in Oklahoma in 1983, the Lips released their first album, Hear It Is in 1986 and their most recent, Embryonic, in 2009. Their 25 years of creating experimental music and fantastic stage productions have earned them praise and labels such as “the presidents of alternative rock” and “the Pink Floyd of indie-rock.”

With a string of hits that includes “Do You Realize?”, “She Don’t Use Jelly,” “Race for the Prize” and “The Yeah Yeah Yeah Song,” the Lips have won Grammy Awards in three categories in 2003 and 2007, while their 1999 album The Soft Bulletin is regarded by many as one of the best of the entire decade. Don’t miss them while they’re here.

Wondang Station, Line 3, Exit 4. Walk in the direction of the underground motorways. Turn left and walk 15 minutes through the alley of Oulim Apt.

Jónsi— The 1st Live in Seoul AX-Korea Nov 29, 8pm

Mew—Live in Seoul AX-Korea Nov 13, 8pm

88,000 won (02) 323-2838 Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 2. Cross the road, turn left, and walk for 5 minutes. The hall is located behind the youth center.

Mew toured with world as the opening act for Pixies and the Nine Inch Nails in 2009. The same year, they overwhelmed audiences at Japan’s Summer Sonic festival with unique live performances using powerful strobes and videos made by the band members themselves to accompany each track. The band’s 15-year history began in the northern Copenhagen district of Helerup, when its four members—Vo, G, B and Dr—came together to work on a school film project about nature and destructive power. They began their career in awe of personal heroes like Dinosaur Jr My Bloody Valentine and Pixies, but soon developed a distinct sound all of their own. Come and hear it for yourself.

99,000 won Tickets: http://ticket.interpark. com/global (02) 563-0595 Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 2.

Cross the road, turn left, and walk for 5 minutes. The hall is located behind the youth center.

Elisabeth Kontomanou Mapo Arts Center Dec 5, 6pm R: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 3274-8600 Daeheung Station, Line 6, Exit 2.

Go straight and turn right at the intersection.

Korean Music Changwoo Arirang Bukchon Changwoo Theater Every Fri, Sat, 11am R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won (02) 747-3809 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Walk straight until you see the stone wall of Changdeokgung Palace. Turn left and pass Wonseo Park. The theater is located on the left alley.

2010 Myriade Wave Concert Bukchon Changwoo Theater Every Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, 7:30pm thru Nov 6 5,000 won (02) 747-3809 www.indiegugak.com Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Walk straight until you see the stone wall of Changdeokgung Palace. Turn left and pass Wonseo Park. The theater is located on the left alley.

travel & culture SEOUL 63

Goings on Around Town World Beat Binari in Seoul

10,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Adults: 30,000 won, Youths: 20,000 won (02) 2261-0515 Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4. Walk 200m along the alley between Dongguk Univ.

Culture Contents Complex and Maeil Business Newspaper bldg.

Pansori at Noon

Seoul Namsan Gukakdang Oct 29—Nov 7, 8pm (weekdays) / 4pm, 7pm (Sat) / 4pm (Sun)

Sidae Gonggam Open Stage: Dreaming Performers

Umyeondang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts Nov 16—19, 7:30pm 8,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

(02) 548-4480 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

25,000 won (02) 742-7273 Jongno 3-ga Station, Lines 1, 3 & 5, Exit 7. Walk 300m. The theater is located in the Dongwon bldg.

15,000 won (02) 399-1721 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

20,000 won (02) 2280-4115~6 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ.

Station, Line 3, Exit 2, or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Gugak Concert, Dadam

Umyeondang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts Nov 23, 11am 64 SEOUL November 2010

Free (02) 2666-4450 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 5. On the first basement level of the SKHUB bldg. is a place called “Art Center.” After you pass by several galleries, you will see an openair garden outside. Jay Gallery is located in this garden.

Tiger's Wedding Day Small Hall Dal, National Theater of Korea Nov 19, 7:30pm / Nov 20, 5pm Adults: 30,000 won, Youths: 15,000 won (070) 8954-3075 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ.

Station, Line 3, Exit 2, or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Artist of the Year Gwanghwamun Art Forum Special Exhibition

Main Exhibition Hall, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Oct 27—Nov 2 Free (02) 723-9489 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Korean Theater Royal Court Banquet Music: Music of Peace, Dream of the Dynasty

Yeakdang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts Dec 14—24, 7:30pm (weekdays) / 4pm (weekends) S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Song of the Red Cliff KB Haneul Youth Theater, National Theater of Korea Nov 20, 3pm

Jay Gallery Thru Nov 2

Hwang Byung-ki— Music and Life

Changdeokgung Theater Thru Nov 13, 20, 7pm

Sejong Chamber Hall, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Nov 18, 7:30pm

Paintings / Drawings

10,000 won (02) 2280-4115~6 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ.

Station, Line 3, Exit 2, or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Dec 4, 2pm

Art Exhibitions Michael Anderson— Happy Mascots

KB Haneul Youth Theater, National Theater of Korea Nov 24, 11am

Stone Jazz ‘Crossover Korean Soul’

Seoul Metropolitan Traditional Music Orchestra Regular Performance

R: 50,000 won, S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 399-1766 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Korean Dance Seoul Metropolitan Dance Theatre— ‘Samiingok’ Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Nov 5, 7:30pm / Nov 6, 5pm

Comic Theater: Round and Round Looking for Father Guro Arts Valley Nov 14, 4pm R: 20,000 won, S: 15,000 won (02) 2029-1700~1 Daerim Station, Line 2 & 7, Exit 4.

Transfer to maeul bus No. 10 or 11.

Get off at Guro Community Center.

Analog Forest Outdoor Exhibition

Seoul Museum of Art Thru Nov 7 Adults: 700 won, Youths: 300 won, Others: Free Weekdays: (02) 120, Holidays & Nights: (02) 2124-8800 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 1 or Line 2, Exits 11 & 12. Walk for 5 minutes.

Bang Byoung-sang— Too Young to Die Photography

Sungkok Art Museum Thru Nov 7 Adults: 5,000 won, Youths: 4,000 won (02) 737-7650 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7. Walk in the direction of Seodaemun. Turn right at the alley between the Salvation Army Hall and the Seoul History Museum and walk 300m.

Gwangju Biennale 2010—10000 LIVES Biennale

Gwangju Biennale Hall and other venues in Gwangju Thru Nov 7 Throughout the exhibition period— Adults: 30,000 won, Youths: 20,000 won, Children: 10,000 won One day—Adults: 14,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won, Children: 3,000 won (062) 608-4114, www.gb.or.kr It takes three hours to get from Seoul (Yongsan Station) to Gwangju by KTX. Take a cab. It will take another 10 minutes to get to the venue.

Seodaemun. Turn right at the alley between the Salvation Army Hall and the Seoul History Museum and walk 300m.

The Masters of Korean Modern and Contemporary Art

Sungkok Art Museum Thru Nov 7 Adults: 5,000 won, Youths: 4,000 won (02) 737-7650 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7. Walk in the direction of

Shona Sculpture Exhibition

Modern and Contemporary Art

Sculpture

Adults: 12,000 won, Children: 11,000 won (02) 789-5663 Yeouinaru Station, Line 5, Exit 4.

Walk 80m in the direction of MBC.

3,000 won (02) 580-1300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

63 Art Hall, 63 Sky Art Thru Nov 7

V-Gallery, Seoul Arts Center Oct 29—Nov 12

Fare-Well International Art Project

Over the Rainbow— 9 Journeys of Dorothy in the Museumland Contemporary Art

www.greeNamu.com Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2.

Turn left and pass by Marronnier Park. The center is located on your right.

Brain Factory Thru Nov 14

Choi Jongbum— G20 ‘The Photosynthetic Exciton’ Visual Performance

Arko Art Center Nov 9—10, 7:20pm Free

Free (02) 725-9520 Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along the west side of the walls of Gyeongbokgung Palace. You will find Brain Factory on the corner at the first traffic light.

Wind and Water We Met Photography

Thru Nov 18 Free (02) 3444-9700 Itaewon Station, Line 6, Exit 2.

Walk toward Hangangjin Station and turn left at Chosun Antiques.

Go up the hill and turn right at Lee Soon-hwa Gallery.

Busan Biennale 2010— Living in Evolution Biennale

Busan Museum of Art and other venues in Busan Thru Nov 20 Adults: 7,000 won, Students: 4,000 won (051) 503-6111, http://2010.busanbiennale.or It takes three hours to get from Seoul to Busan by KTX.

Korean Avant-Garde Drawing 1970—2000 Korean Avant-Garde Drawing

SOMA Museum of Art Thru Nov 21

Adults: 3,000 won, Youths: 2,000 won, Children: 1,000 won (02) 425-1077 Mongchontoseong Station, Line 8, Exit 2. Inside the Gate of Peace, walk 200m to the right.

The Korea Foundation Cultural Center Nov 3—15 Free (02) 2151-6500, www.kfcenter.or.kr City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 9.

Walk 5 minutes.

Kim Hyun-sik— Illusion_Between Spaces Contemporary Art

Da Vinci, The Genius Traveling Exhibition War Memorial of Korea Thru Feb 27, 2011

Adults: 15,000 won, Youths: 12,000 won (02) 541-3174 www.davincithegenius.com, www.davincithegenius.co.kr Walk 3 minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 6, Exits 11 & 12, or 5 minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

You might expect the creator of several of the world’s most famous paintings to have led a life dedicated to his own genre. But the hand that produced masterpieces such as the “Mona Lisa” and “The Last Supper” was in fact that of one of the world’s greatest ever polymaths, Leonardo Da Vinci. At once a painter, inventor, scientist, anatomist, engineer, architect, sculptor, biologist, musician, Da Vinci is well known also for his iconic “Vitruvian Man” drawing and countless inventions including a helicopter, tank, double-hulled boat, concentrated solar power and more.

Highlights of this exhibition include the 25 “Secrets of Mona Lisa” display, the results of multi-spectral imaging analysis of the work by French technician from 2004-2006 which show, among other things, that she once had eyebrows; and actual-size models of Da Vinci’s inventions, transported all the way from Italy.

Gallery LVS Thru Nov 16

Free (02) 3443-7475 Apgujeong Station, Line 3, Exit 4. Walk straight and turn right at Sweet Space. The gallery is located inside the Jasmi bldg. next to Family Mart.

Nulla Dies Sine Line

Media City Seoul 2010— Trust

Gallery, KT&G Sangsang Madang Thru Nov 21

Media Art Biennale

Seoul Museum of Art and other venues Thru Nov 17 Adults: 3,000 won (ages 20—23: 2,000 won) (02) 2124-8981 www.mediacityseoul.org Seoul Museum of Art—City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 1 or Line 2, Exits 11 & 12. Walk for 5 minutes.

Spanish Contemporary Drawing

Free (02) 330-6224 Hongik Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 5.

Turn left and go two blocks. Walk through the Walkable Street on your right. Cross the road and go straight. The hall is located next to Luxury Su.

Showing Up Contemporary Art

Gallery Through, Itaewon travel & culture SEOUL 65

Goings on Around Town Yoon Joo-kyung— I'll Keep Your Smile Video Art

behind the Hamilton Hotel. Walk about 100m. Le Saint-Ex is on the left.

Art Space Pool Thru Nov 21 Free (02) 396-4805 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1, or Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along Samcheongdong Street. The museum is located on the right.

Choi Jong-hee— 'project aRan’

Installation Art & Performance

Gallery Kong Nov 10—24

Free (02) 738-7776 Take maeul bus at Namdaemun, City Hall, or KT Olleh Square and get off at Samcheong-dong Office.

Turn around and walk a bit. Turn right at the rime Minister's Official Resience and head towards Cheong Wa Dae.

Inside Paul Smith…

His Art, His Photography, His World Special Exhibition

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum Thru Nov 28 Adults: 4,000 won, Students: 2,000 won (02) 720-0667 Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 4. Walk 5 minutes in the direction of the Blue House.

Sibylle Bergemann Photographien

Contemporary Art

Museum of Art, Seoul National Univ.

Thru Nov 28

Blair Kitchener— Gyeongbokgung: Unexpected Ways Photography

Le Saint-Ex, Itaewon Nov 7—28 Free (02) 795-2465 www.lesaintex.co.kr Itaewon Station, Line 6, Exit 1. Turn right at KFC and left at the street 66 SEOUL November 2010

Adults: 3,000 won, Youths: 2,000 won 1577-7766 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Rainbow Asia

Craft Trend Fair 2010 / Korea, The Style 2010

Various Artists

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Nov 4—Dec 5 Adults: 2,000 won, Students: 1,000 won (02) 580-1600 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Oct 29—Dec 8

Vincent Troia— I could taste your lipstick on the filter

Photography

Special Overseas Exchange Exhibit

Free (02) 418-1315 Mongchontoseong Station, Line 8, Exit 2. The gallery is located on the 19th fl. of Hanmi Tower.

Photography

Adults: 8,000 won, Students: 5,000 won (02) 777-4237 http://designartfair.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

No More Daughters & Heroes Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si Thru Dec 12

National Geographic Photo Exhibit

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Nov 19—27

Univ. Students: 8,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won (031) 780-2153 www.designkorea.or.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Photography

The Museum of Photography, Seoul Thru Dec 4

Design

Free 010-9518-9333 Get off at Noksapyeong Station, Line 6, Exit 2. Walk approx. 350m until you reach Haebangchon-gil, and turn left in front of Jongjeom Pharmacy. The gallery is located on your left.

Adults: 2,000 won, Youths: 1,000 won (02) 736-4371, 4410 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Turn left at the exit, then left again in front of the post office.

Yuki Onodera

Design & Art Festival 2010

Laughing Tree Open daily: Nov 14—19, Open by appointment: Nov 20—27

Contemporary Art Nov 3—Dec 3

Adults: 10,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won, Kindergartners: 6,000 won 1544-1681 www.ngphoto.co.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Craft

Hall A, COEX Dec 15—19 (02) 398-7921 http://craftfair.kcdf.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Seoul International Quilt Festival 2010 (SIQF 2010) Quilting

Hall B, COEX Dec 21—23 Adults: 16,000 won, Youths: 2,000 won (031) 785-5419, www.siqf.com Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Forgotten War, The Division of Reality Painting

National Museum of Contemporary Art Thru Dec 26 Free (02) 2188-6000 Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus.

3,000 won (02) 880-9504 Seoul National Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 3. Take green bus No. 5511, 5512, or 5513. The museum is located to the left of the main gate.

Song Young-su— Pioneer in Korean Abstract Sculpture

Hisaya Taira

Abstract Sculpture

Photography

National Museum of Contemporary Art Thru Dec 26

Free (02) 519-0800 Apgujeong Station, Line 3, Exit 2.

Walk 500m. Turn right and walk 600m. Turn left and walk 800m along LG Fashion.

3,000 won (02) 2188-6000 Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus.

Gangnam Space, Gallery Hyundai Nov 11—30

Park Byoung-choon— Landscape Painting Korean Traditional Painting

Savina Museum of

Design Korea 2010

Chun Kyung-ja's Spirit

Design

Modern Art (Painting)

Adults: 10,000 won,

Adults: 700 won, Youths: 300 won, Others: Free

Hall D, COEX Dec 7—12

Seoul Museum of Art Thru Dec 31

Weekdays: (02) 120, Holidays & Nights: (02) 2124-8800 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 1 or Line 2, Exits 11 & 12. Walk for 5 minutes.

Board bus No. 9710 and get off at Munsan Bus Terminal. Transfer to bus No. 94 and get off at Imjingak.

Yangju World Pumpkin Festival

Thomas Struth— Korea 2007—2010

Yangju-si, Gyeonggi-do Thru Nov 30

Photography

Free (031) 842-5605~7 http://hobakfestival.com Yangju Station, Line 1. Transfer to bus No. 7, 79 or 82 on the opposite side of the road. Get off at the entrance of Samsung-dong Xii Apt.

Gallery Hyundai New Space Nov 17, 2010—Jan 9, 2011 Free (02) 2287-3500 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk along Samcheong-dong Street.

The gallery is located on your right.

Starlight Garden Fair

Memories of the Future Contemporary Art

Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art Thru Feb 13, 2011 Adults: 10,000 won, Youths (ages 7—18): 6,000 won (02) 2014-6900 Hangangjin Station, Line 6, Exit 1.

Walk 100m toward Itaewon. Turn right at the first alley and walk the hill.

Picasso and Modern Art Masterworks from the Albertina Museum of Art

National Museum of Art. Deoksugung Oct 26, 2010—Mar 1, 2011 11,000 won (02) 757-3002 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 2 or Line 2, Exit 12. The museum is located inside of Deoksugung Palace.

Seoul Lantern Festival Cheonggye Plaza & Cheonggyecheon Stream Nov 5—14

Free (02) 120 Cheonggye Plaza—City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2.

2010 is the first of three consecutive Visit Korea Years. To mark this, and to promote international cultural exchange by inviting and displaying lanterns from around the world, Seoul Lantern Festival is opening on November 11 (the same day as the G20 Seoul Summit) and running for 11 days in the Cheonggyecheon Stream area. More than 520,000 people are expected to take part in the festival.

Appropriately enough for a festival held along a stream, Seoul Lantern Festival this year has a theme of “flow,” in the hope that it will generate a huge flow from the rest of the world to Seoul. Let’s wait and see what flows in.

Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Festivals The Yeoncheon Jeongok-ri Paleolithic Festival Prehistoric Site of Jeongok-ri, Yeoncheon-gun, Gyeonggi-do Oct 29—Nov 2

Exposition Spéciale du Château de Versailles en Corée Special Exhibition from Versailles Palace, France

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Nov 5, 2010—Mar 6, 2011 Adults: 13,000 won, Students: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won (02) 580-1702

Free (031) 839-2561~3 http://goosukgi.org Dongducheon Station, Line 1.

Transfer to bus No. 39, 39-1, 395, or 3300. Get off at Jeongok Station and walk for 15 minutes.

2010 Korea Chrysanthemum Festival Hampyeong Expo Park, Jeollanam-do

Oct 29—Nov 14 Free (061) 322-0011 www.hampyeong.jeonnam.kr It takes four hours to get from Seoul to Hampyeong by express bus.

7th Gunsan International Migratory Bird Festival 2010 Gunsan Migratory Bird Observatory, Gunsan-si, Jeollabuk-do Nov 10—14 Free (063) 453-7213~4 http://eco.gmbo.kr/english It takes three hours to get from Seoul to Gunsan by express bus.

Transfer to shuttle bus.

Paju Jangdan Soybean Festival Imjingak, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do Nov 26—28 Free (031) 940-5281/8 http://kong.paju.go.kr Nokbeon Station, Line 3, Exit 1.

The Garden of Morning Calm, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do Dec 1, 2010—Feb 28, 2011 (5pm—8:30pm) Adults: 6,000 won, Youths: 4,000 won, Children: 3,000 won 1544-6703 www.morningcalm.co.kr Take the bus heading to Chuncheon from Sangbong Station, Line 7, and get off at Cheongpyeong Bus Terminal. It takes about an hour and a half.

From there, catch a cab or take a bus to the tree garden.

Seoul Festival of Lights 2010 Cheonggye Plaza & five bridges between Mojeongyo Bridge and Samilgyo Bridge Dec 11, 2010—Jan 9, 2011 Free (02) 120 Cheonggye Plaza—City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2.

2010 Yeongdong Dried Persimmon Festival Yeongdong-gun, Chungcheongbuk-do Dec 17—19 Free (043) 740-3311~3 http://gam.yd21.go.kr It takes about three hours to get from Seoul to Yeongdong by KTX. The festival venue is near Nangye Gugakdang.

Other Events The 9th Gyeonggi International Travel Mart 2010 KINTEX Nov 11—14 Adults: 2,000 won, Youths: 1,000 won travel & culture SEOUL 67

Goings on Around Town (031) 259-6987, www.gitm.or.kr Daehwa Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Transfer to shuttle bus.

Nov 25—28 8,000 won (02) 2051-3322 www.cafeshow.co.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Sports 2010 Seoul International Food Industry Expo aT Center Nov 17—20 Free (02) 2232-7911 http://expo.ekra.or.kr Yangjae Station, Line 3, Exit 7.

Transfer to bus No. 470 or 471 and get off at Yangjae Flower Market.

Makgeolli Expo Hall C, COEX Nov 18—21 3,000 won (02) 6000-2800 www.makgeolliexpo.co.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

My Car Show KINTEX Nov 18—20 5,000 won (031) 433-0023 www.mycarshow.co.kr Daehwa Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Transfer to shuttle bus.

Food Week 2010 Hall A & B, COEX Nov 18—21

National Ice Hockey Championship Mokdong Ice Rink Nov 8 & 11, 1:30pm / Nov 9 & 12, 1:30pm, 4:30pm / Nov 14, 4:30pm Free (02) 425-7001 www.kiha.or.kr Omokgyo Station, Line 5, Exit 3.

Walk 10 minutes.

2010 Namsan MillionPerson Walking Festival Namsan Park Square Nov 13, 10am Free (Registration at information desk on morning of festival) (02) 522-5448 www.seoulwalking.or.kr Take blue bus No. 402 or 405 or yellow bus No. 02, 03, or 05 and get off at Namsan Library.

Cinema The 4th Seoul International Family Film Festival (SIFFF) CGV Songpa, Garden 5 Oct 27—Nov 2 Around 5,000 won (02) 777-1444 www.sifff.org Jangji Station, Line 8, Exit 3.

Adults: 4,000 won, Youths: 2,000 won http://blog.naver.com/2010isf Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 5.

The 8th Asiana International Short Film Festival Cine Cube Nov 4—9

Around 4,000—7,000 won (02) 783-6518~9, www.aisff.org Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 6. Walk 5—10 minutes.

68 SEOUL November 2010

Feminism Video Activist Biennale 2010 Media Theater, i-Gong Dec 2—15 TBC (02) 337-2870, 2873 www.igong.org Hongik Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 4.

Turn right and walk straight. Turn left at the Street You Want to Walk.

Turn right at Hongik Galbi. The theater is located on your left along the Market M alley.

Uijeongbu Ice Rink Nov 19, 12:30pm / Nov 21—22, 25—26 & 28, 3pm Free (02) 425-7001 www.kiha.or.kr Uijeongbu Station, Line 1. Transfer to maeul bus No. 208. Get off at Uijeongbu Ice Rink.

The 36th Seoul Independent Film Festival CGV Sangam Dec 9—17 Around 5,000—10,000 won (02) 362-9513, www.siff.or.kr World Cup Stadium Station, Line 6, Exit

2010 Pink Film Festival Cinus Isu / Cinus Ichae Nov 5—10 / Nov 12—14

Hall C, COEX Nov 25—28

Hall A, COEX

Adults: 6,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won, Seniors: 4,000 won (02) 741-9782, www. cinematheque.seoul.kr Jongno 3-ga Station, Lines 1, 3 & 5, Exit 5. Walk straight for 5 minutes.

The theater is located in Nagwon Arcade.

Gwacheon National Science Museum Oct 28—Nov 7

2010 Korea Ice Hockey League

The 18th Korea International Sign & Design Show

The 9th Seoul International Café Show 2010 / The 5th International Fancyfood Festival

Cinematheque Thru Nov 7

2010 International SF Film Festival

Business days: 8,000 won, Public days: 3,000 won (02) 6000-1067, 1073 www.foodweek.co.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

5,000 won (02) 6000-1052/7, 1108 www.kosignshow.co.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Agnès Varda Retrospective

TBC www.pinkfilm.co.kr

2010 YTN Son Ki-jung Marathon Festival Jamsil Sports Complex Nov 21, 9pm Free (On-site registration required) (02) 723-1666~7 www.sonkijung.co.kr Sports Complex Station, Line 2, Exit 6 or 7.

Seoul International Extreme-Short Image & Film Festival CGV Prime Sindorim, CGV Guro Movie Collage, and other venues in Guro-gu Nov 5—11 TBC (02) 6300-6854~5 www.sesiff.org

2

travel & culture SEOUL 69

Goings on Around Town

Regular Events Korean Traditional Stage, Miso Chongdong Theater Daily (no performance on Mondays) 4pm, 8pm

R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 751-1500, www.koreamiso.com City Hall Station, Lines 1 or 2, Exit 1.

Miso, one of Korea’s most popular traditional performances, now has its own dedicated theater in central Seoul. Chongdong Theater, in the historic neighborhood of Jeong-dong, is just down the road from the Deoksugung Palace and an ideal location to take in Miso’s compelling blend of traditional dance, music and percussion.

Korean Folk Performance for Visitors

Ballerina Who Loves B-boy

National Folk Museum

LotteWorld Art Hall

Sat 3pm Free (02) 3704-3114, www.nfm.go.kr Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3.

Walk 15 minutes from Exit 5.

Sachoom Sachoom Theater (Nagwon Arcade)

Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 4pm, 7:30pm, Sun 4pm 50,000 won (070) 8249-3023, www.sachoom.com Jongno 3-ga Station, Line 5, Exit 5.

Jump Jongno Cinecore Theater

Mon 8pm, Thu—Fri 4pm, 8pm, Sat 1pm, 4pm, 8pm, Sun 3pm, 6pm R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won (02) 722-3995, www.hijump.co.kr Jongno 3-ga Station, Line 1, Exit 15.

Seoul Namsan Gugakdang Regular Performance Seoul Namsan Gugakdang

Wed, Fri 7:30pm, Sat 5pm Adults: 20,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won (02) 2261-0515 www.sejongpac.or.kr/sngad Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4.

Pungnyu Hanmadang

Nanta

Jung Dong: Mon—Sun 2pm, 5pm, 8pm Cheongdam: Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 5pm, 8pm, Sun 5pm, Myeong-dong: Mon—Fri Sun 5pm, 8pm, Sat 2pm, 5pm, 8pm

VIP: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won, (Myeong-dong—A: 40,000 won) (02) 739-8288, www.nanta.co.kr/en Jung Dong: Seodaemun Station, Line 5, Exit 5. Cheongdam: Gangnam-gu Office Station, Line 7, Exit 4. Myeong-dong: Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 6 or Euljiro 1-ga Station, Line 2, Exits 5 or 6.

Theater Pungnyu, Korea Heritage Cultural Foundation bldg.

Every Friday, 7:30pm 5,000 won (02) 3011-2178~9, www.chf.or.kr Seolleung Station, Line 2, Exit 8. Walk in the direction of Gangnam-gu Office.

The theater is located next to Ramada Hotel.

Battle B-boy B-boy Theater

Wed—Fri 8pm, Sat 6pm, Sun 2pm 50,000 won (02)323-5233 www.sjbboys.com Sinchon Station, Line 2, Exit 1.

Transfer to bus No. 273. Get off at Samjin Pharmacy bus stop.

Changwoo Arirang Bukchon Changwoo Theater

Fri, Sat, Sun 11am R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won (02) 747-3809 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Walk straight until you see the stone wall of Changdeokgung Palace. Turn left and pass Wonseo Park. The theater is located on the left alley.

Wed—Thu 8pm, Fri 5pm, 7pm, Sat—Sun 3pm, 6pm R: 50,000 won (02) 2266-3727 www.showbboy.com/language/english.asp Jamsil Station, Line 2, Exit 4.

Drawing Show 'Hero' MyungBo Art Hall

Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 4pm, 7pm, Sun 3pm, 6pm R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won (02) 766-7848 www.drawingtheater.com Euljiro 3-ga Station, Lines 2 & 3, Exit 8.

Legend of Flower Walkerhill Theatre, Sheraton Grande Walkerhill Hotel

Daily (no performances on Sundays) 5pm, 7:30pm S: 60,000 won, R: 80,000 won (02) 455-5000 www.legendofflower.com Take shuttle bus at Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 4 (in the direction of Gangbyeon Station.)

Saturday Performance of Korean Music & Dance National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts

Sat 4pm 10,000 won (02) 580-3333, www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5.

PAN—The Korean Traditional Performing Arts directed

by Kim Duk Soo Gwanghwamun Art Hall

Wed—Fri 8pm, Sat—Sun 2pm R: 40,000 won, S: 30,000 won (02) 722-3416, www.ghmarthall.co.kr Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 1.

Walk 10 minutes along the Sajik Park and turn right.

Traditional Performing Arts Korea House

Mon—Sat 1st show: Dinner 5:30pm Performance: 7pm, 2nd show: Dinner 7:20pm, Performance 8:50pm, Sunday show: Dinner 6:30pm, Performance 8pm 50,000 won (02) 2266-9101~3 www.koreahouse.or.kr Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 and 4, Exit 3.

You can find more Korea-related events at

www.ClickKorea.org

70 SEOUL November 2010

LIVING expat banking in Korea dining out nightlife lifestyle & leisure shopping news

special report ii

EXPAT BANKING IN KOREA

SEOUL explains why you don’t need to keep cash under your mattress any more

Written by Jacco Zwetsloot Photographs by Ryu Seunghoo and courtesy of Korea Exchange Bank

More iNfo More detailed information about banking in Korea can be found in “Financial Transactions Guide for Foreigners in Korea,” a booklet published by Fn Hub Korea (an arm of the Financial Supervisory Service). It can be downloaded for free at their website (www. fnhubkorea.kr, in the “Living Assistance” menu). Various banks also have a copy on their websites and hard copies in their branches.

WeBSiteS www.keb.co.kr/netc/en/expat/ main.html www.scfirstbank.com www.shinhan.com/en/ http://eng.wooribank.com/ www.citibank.co.kr/eng/index.jsp http://money.kbstar.com/ quics?page=eng www.hsbc.co.kr/1/2/home http://english.ibk.co.kr/ www.hanabank.com http://banking.nonghyup.com www.suhyup.co.kr/eng/index.jsp

T

hough daunting, banking as a foreigner in Korea is much easier than 15 years ago, when you got a Korean friend to help you at the teller and after midnight ATMs were down until the next day. Nowadays, banks are competing for expat clients. Even the National Agricultural Cooperative Federation (Nonghyup Bank) has an English interface for Internet banking!

Getting started To open a bank account in Korea, all you need is your passport to get a basic passbook that you can use for over-the-teller transactions. Some bank passbooks can be used in ATMs to withdraw cash. Ask at your bank if you want this, as you will require a PIN for the passbook.

At the bank’s discretion, you may need to wait 90 days from opening your first bank account.

This can be avoided if you already have a certificate of alien registration. Some banks are reluctant to issue ATM cards that will work overseas, so make sure you ask beforehand.

Please note: when you get a new passport, it will have a different number, meaning it will not be valid identification for accounts opened with the old passport. The best thing to do is register your certificate of alien registration a s y o u r identification, as registration numbers never

72 SEOUL November 2010

change. If you opened the account with your passport, you can change it when you receive your registration card.

Sending money overseas Wiring funds to your home country is possible, though there are restrictions. The Korean government has laws and guidelines in place to curtail the unlimited outflow of capital.

Each foreigner must designate a “primary foreign exchange transaction bank.” This will usually be where you open your first account in Korea. Henceforth, all money remitted overseas must be done at a branch of this bank. If you visit the same branch each time, subsequent remittances to the same account should be much faster.

You will need to show identification and fill in a remittance form. You can send up to US$50,000 each year without declaring the source of the money. To remit more, you need to show documents to the bank showing the money was legally earned in Korea.

transferring money within Korea You can transfer funds from your account to any other in Korea easily and quickly at a bank teller or ATM or via the Internet. Fees vary, but the last option is cheapest. This is an efficient way to pay bills, shop online, and buy travel tickets. You just need the recipient account name, number, and the name of the bank.

Check cards and credit cards A check card is similar to a debit card. It functions like a credit card, but the money comes directly out of your account, so you cannot exceed your balance. Check cards can be used in most stores, restaurants, taxis and some ATMs. A signature is not always required.

You can apply at your bank—some will issue them immediately upon opening an account, while others require a 90-day wait and/or proof of income. Whether you are eligible for a debit card is always at the discretion of each bank.

Foreign residents of Korea can now apply for locally issued credit cards. Eligibility depends on credit history in Korea, income levels, and/or job type. Depending on these, you may be required to open a term deposit; your credit card limit will then be a percentage of that deposit.

internet banking All major banks now provide Internet banking in English, but not all levels of service are equal.

Check if your bank has explanatory brochures in English and an English-language helpline for phone advice. Some websites are superficially expat-friendly—with error messages and popups in Korean only.

Internet banking is helpful and cheap, but there are a number of security hurdles to surmount. Most banking websites work only with Internet Explorer and require you to allow the installation of firewalls and anti-spyware applications. You also need to download and save a “digital certificate,” which you will use for all future Internet banking transactions with any bank. Then you need an OTP (one -time password) card that holds strings of random numbers. When transferring funds online, you will need to enter your PIN, a transfer password, your certificate password, and two strings of OTP card numbers.

Additionally, some banks offer phone banking and mobile banking.

Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center

expat-friendly banks Shinhan Bank recently opened a center for foreign customers on the first floor of the Seoul Finance Center.

Standard Chartered First Bank has ten branches in Seoul with English-speaking staff, brochures, a helpline, and a website in English.

Citibank runs six “global branches” of its own Woori Bank has 11 “expat-only” desks in its branches around the nation.

Apart from its 19 global desks, Korea Exchange Bank runs 3 foreign VIP centers, a 24-hour English hotline and a desk in the Seoul Global Center run by Seoul Metropolitan Government.

KB, IBK, HSBC, Hana, and Nonghyup have direct-dial English-language helplines.

Korea Exchange Bank's desk at Seoul Global Center

travel & culture SEOUL 73

dining out

PIRATE fISH Lee Chun Bok Chamchi, the tuna buffet that feels like a buccaneer’s galley Written and photographed by Daniel Gray

L

ee Chun Bok Chamchi, near Sookmyung Women’s University Station, has a raucous feel to it. The swashbuckling chefs carry in big hunks of tuna on their shoulders and slice them up while yammering with the guests. The chefs have a sardonic edge to them, but it is easy to tell that it’s all in good fun.

Once you get seated (there is usually a 15 to 20 minute wait), it doesn’t mean you’ll get immediate attention. It’s not just because the crew of chefs is busy—it’s as if they are eying you up, asking themselves in their pirate’s voice, “So what sort of customer is this landlubber going to be? Harrgh....” Sure, you could turtle and be meek, but I say demand attention and have fun.

Getting the captain’s attention

More iNfo Opening hours: 11am—2am T. (02) 794-4558

GettiNG there Down the road from Sookmyung Women’s University Station, Line 4, Exit 6.

74 SEOUL November 2010

Often, the head chef, Mr. Han, will come over to take your order. There isn’t a wide selection: there is mixed tuna (modeum chamchi ; 20,000 won), the special (chamchi special ; 25,000 won), and the boss’s recommendation (siljang chucheon chamchi ; 35,000 won), and it goes up from there. I recommend you get the boss’s recommendation. You get special attention from

FRESH DINING IN SAMCHEONG-DONG

The head chef, Mr. Han

the captain of this surly crew, and he happens to be the most skilled chef of the whole lot. If that’s a bit out of your price range, you’ll still get good tuna with the chamchi special —just be sure to buy lots of soju or cheongha (a distilled rice wine). It’s customary to give the boss a shot of liquor; in return, you’ll get higher-grade cuts of tuna.

Now, they will try to fill you up on tempura, salads, soups, roasted corn with cheese, egg, etc. Forget all that stuff—I recommend you stick with the tuna. You’ll get a mix of red tuna and white abalone.

Dalhangari Freshest Korean Seasonal Ingredients Feeding Your Body and Soul

A crescendo of fat They’ll generally start you out with very red cuts of tuna. This is the leanest and most prevalent cut. It’s quite good with a bit of vinegared red chili paste or with a bit of wasabi and soy sauce.

The wasabi here is excellent, so ask for extra.

When the tuna turns a pinker red, like cheeks in winter, you know that the cuts are getting fattier.

Finally, when you get flesh that is red with ribbons of fat, you know that you have won the chef’s favor. This is the prized tuna belly, which consists of nearly 50% fat. Savor these pieces of foie gras from the sea, and thank the chef with a shot of soju .

No frozen tuna here Besides the atmosphere, the best part about Lee Chun Bok Chamchi is that the tuna is defrosted.

Many other Korean tuna places will serve the tuna frozen, preventing the fat from melting on your tongue. All tuna comes to restaurants frozen, but here they first defrost it in brine. That might not sound appetizing, but it makes the fish taste delicious.

To send you off, your captain might give you a shot of cactus alcohol with a tuna eye in the bottom of the glass—a special privilege reserved for his favorite guests. The chewy, waxy eye isn’t delicious, but with only two per fish, it is a kind gesture.

Tel. 02-733-7902 9:30am~9:30pm Located in alley in front of Prime Minister's Office ('Chongni Gonggwan' Ap) in Samcheong-dong, 15 mins' walk from Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1

travel & culture SEOUL 75

nightlife

A TENT RESTAURANT IN THE SKy Traditional street food nine floors above street level

Written by Daniel Gray | Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo and Daniel Gray

76 SEOUL November 2010

P

ojangmacha , or “tent restaurants,” are deeply grounded in the Korean culture.

They are the everyman’s drinking place.

Pojangmacha are known as cheap drinking tents lined in orange waterproof fabric around a makeshift cart. The food is not what you would call “refined”: chewy chicken gizzards, grilled fish, giant yellow omelets with red ketchup, and chicken’s feet braised in a blood-red chili sauce.

As uncouth as this might sound, you’ll see everyone, young and old, hip and traditional, coming to these mobile bars on wheels that are often parked on the side of the road or under bridges.

far out and far out

More iNfo T. (02) 478-3612 Address: Seoul, Gangdong-gu, Cheonho-dong 469-1, Star City Building, 10th fl.

Opening hours: 6pm—5am

GettiNG there Line 5, Cheonho Station, Exit 2.

At the first intersection, make a left (you’ll see a giant golf driving range across the street). Walk about two blocks and you’ll see the Star City Building on the left.

Efforts have been made to transform the pojangmacha concept in the past. There are luxury places like Mui Mui and Juju in Apgujeong (south central Seoul), but often these aren’t as good as the little mom and pop tents in the heart of Jongno 3-ga (north Seoul). So the idea of going all the way to Gangdong (in far, far eastern Seoul, near W Hotel) for a pojangmacha seemed a bit illogical—but the idea of a “tent restaurant in the sky” piqued my curiosity.

Wang Dae Po (왕대포) means “the king’s goblet.” It is located in a working class area dotted with machinists’ shops and motorbike dealerships, but the trip up in the glass elevator to the 9th floor, overlooking the Han River, transforms everything so that it looks bright and sparkling.

twinkling skyscrapers

the tables are filled with friends talking over green bottles of soju , tin kettles of rice beer, and glasses of beer. Each table is an island where friends smile, chat, joke, and toast. The tables near the windows are prime seating, and to create a big-top atmosphere the 10th floor’s floor has been cut away and a loft formed (from the remainder of the 10th floor) near the windows for an even more romantic view of the cars crossing the Olympic Bridge and the twinkling skyscrapers in the distance.

This place keeps to its roots, so you won’t find a wine menu—you get traditional Korean fare: soju , rice beer (makgeolli ), distilled rice wine (cheongha ), and beer. Bottles start at 3,000 won. Of course, as with all Korean drinking places, you can’t drink without having food (Koreans believe it’s bad for your health to drink on an empty stomach).

Good standard fare The food menu is also your standard pojangmacha fare: live octopus (san nakji ), acorn jelly salad (dotorimuk ), fish cake soup (odeng jeongol ), and seafood pancakes (haemul pajeon ). House specialties are the “spicy scorched rice seafood soup (haemul jjamppong nurungji tang )” and the “spicy braised chicken’s feet (Wang Dae Po maeun dakbal ).”

Wang Dae Po is a place where old and new unite. It’s where you’ll see beautiful Korean girls dressed up for the night sipping on cups of soju while wearing plastic gloves and nibbling on spicy chicken’s feet. It’s a great place to take in Korea’s exciting nightlife culture.

The atmosphere is jovial, fun, and infectious. All travel & culture SEOUL 77

lifestyle & leisure

HIKING SEOUL’S SPIRITUAL MOUNTAIN

Autumn is the ideal time to take in Mt. Inwangsan’s special atmosphere Written and photographed by David B. Mann

R

ising 338 meters high in Seoul, Mt. Inwangsan has long been a favorite among hikers, and a center of shamanism in Korea for quite a bit longer. Known as “White Tiger Mountain” during the Joseon period because of the number of white tigers residing on it, Mt. Inwangsan is now a loose complex of Buddhist temples and shamanist shrines. After going through the main gate of the complex, visitors can immediately take a path going to the right or go up to the big bell, which is easily seen to the left. Each path leads to its own distinctive experience of the mountain. Taking the paths that start at the bell leads the hiker to the various shamanist temples and shrines scattered about the hillside, while the path on the immediate right is a more scenic path used by most hikers wanting to get to the top for the fantastic views of Seoul and its various mountains.

78 SEOUL November 2010

rocky manifestations Because of the manifestations of the “Benevolent King” (the meaning of “Inwang”) and a crouching tiger, the national animal of Korea, Mt. Inwangsan has long been a center of shamanist activity on the Korean Peninsula. After passing the bell, which was assigned to the temples some time in the 1970s, the hiker will soon come to Guksadang, a shamanist shrine.

Talking with individuals in the first few temples can be a trying experience for those who do not speak Korean, but once you get to Guksadang most of the people you meet are genuinely interested in sharing their experiences and talking with foreigners.

Praying for a son Starting with Guksadang, hikers will see why the mountain has long been a center of shamanist activity. This side is much quieter, and the people are much more spread out. This is the side of the mountain where you will see contemporary shamans, or mudang , who act as intermediaries

between the spirit world and the human world and perform rituals. You will also find several temporary huts and individuals meditating and chanting. You might also see pregnant women praying for sons at Seonbawi Rock, whose name means â&#x20AC;&#x153;Zen rockâ&#x20AC;? in Korean. While exploring this side of the hill, you might find yourself wanting to stay a bit longer to enjoy the quiet and relaxing atmosphere.

Breathtaking views The other side of the mountain does not have the many interesting altars and rock formations that the front side does, but it gets you to incredible views along the summit. This is the path that most hikers take, and at times it can be steep and/or narrow. Along the way to the summit, there are several places to stop and get a good view of the valley below. There are also a few stops along the path that have a place to sit and get some fresh mountain water. The higher you go, the better the view.

Once you get to the top, the view is one of the best in Seoul, and gives a good idea of how

much the city has grown over the last 20 years.

Several Seoul landmarks, such as the presidential Blue House and the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s palaces, can be seen from this ridge. One will also appreciate the sheer number of high-rise apartments and buildings built in Seoul. Along the top ridge, there are paths that lead to other fantastic views of Seoul, which is why the mountain has military and police personnel stationed on it.

More info Guksadang hosts three or four rites each day. It is especially busy in March and October.

Getting there Line 3, Dongnimmun Station, Exit 2. Start walking up to Hyundai Apartments. Follow the road up behind the apartment complex until you reach the Korean-style gate that marks the entrance to the mountain.

A mountain for everyone All in all, Mt. Inwangsan is a unique place in Seoul in that it has come to be used in different ways, and for different purposes, by different groups of people. This ethos is even reflected in some of the walking paths that venture out and around the mountain. In these areas, it is not surprising to see an individual sitting crosslegged on a brick wall, quietly looking out over the city, while ajumma and ajeossi (middle-aged women and men) stroll past them on the pathways.

travel & culture SEOUL 79

shopping

BUyING A PIECE Of AUTHENTICITy Shopping for antiques in Seoul

Written by Ben Jackson | Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

T

here’s a theory that tourists in foreign countries are always on the lookout for “authenticity,” blocking out gas stations, Starbucks branches, and new high-rise apartments around them in search of streetside food stalls, traditional teahouses, and aging wooden buildings. When it comes to shopping, this translates into a search for antiques. Seoul contains its share of valuable old objects for sale, but walking away with a piece of Korean history is not a simple matter.

Keeping it in the country If you are lucky enough to get your hands on a genuine antique, taking it out of Korea may be a problem. Each air- and seaport has its own Cultural Properties Appraisal Office, which judges old items in outgoing travelers’ luggage and decides whether they should be designated as the “cultural property” of the state. If this is the case, the person carrying them risks prosecution.

There are several options for those who don’t want to risk smuggling: buying a real antique, if you live in Korea, and leaving it behind when you move abroad; buying an imitation that you like, regardless of its age; or buying a highquality item made by a government-designated practitioner of an “important intangible cultural property” (a craftsman who possesses high levels of skill and knowledge in traditional crafts such as pottery, furniture making, brassware, paper making, or any one of many more areas).

80 SEOUL November 2010

the real deal Those determined to acquire a genuine Korean antique object will need to do a bit of research.

According to antique furniture expert Jung Deayoung of the Donginbang antique shop in Dapsimni, a successful antique transaction must meet three conditions: firstly, the buyer must possess knowledge of the kind of Korean object he or she wants to buy; secondly, he or she must meet a good seller; and thirdly, he or she must be prepared to pay a reasonable price when a valuable item is involved—in other words, bargain hunting and genuine antique shopping are separate and irreconcilable activities. Jung also points out that items such as valuable wooden storage chests were originally p o s s e s s e d b y yangban n o b l e m e n , w h o constituted a small minority in a much smaller population. After many items were sold or otherwise removed from Korea during the Japanese occupation, not a huge number remained.

If you’re still confident, head for the antique markets of Dapsimni or Insa-dong and give yourself plenty of time, bearing in mind that genuine antiques are expensive, and few and far between.

it’s not old but i like it anyway If you like things that just look old, you’ll have a much easier time. Head for Dapsimni, Insadong, or Itaewon and just enjoy browsing the miscellaneous objects until you see something worth bargaining for.

Modern masterpieces The long-sighted option may be to purchase an item made by a state-designated important intangible cultural property or locally (in this case, Seoul) designated practitioner of an intangible cultural property. You may need to ask around to find the right person, but a good place to start is the Korean Association for Preservation of Important Intangible Cultural Properties, in southern Seoul’s Samseong-dong.

Practitioners of these traditional arts are designated after much careful study with another designated master and make items ranging from wooden furniture to fans, textiles, metalwork, traditional musical instruments, mother-of-pearl inlay, lacquerware, paper, and much more.

Whichever of the three options you choose, Korea’s rich arts and craft traditions are sure to turn up at least one object that you can treasure for a long time.

Where to go • Dapsimni—home to Korea’s largest single concentration of antique shops in four large buildings.

Great both for wandering around and for serious shopping. Shops vary in content from antique Korean furniture and pottery to Chinese reproductions, Chinese-style items, antique agricultural machinery, stone carvings, paintings, and plenty more. Age and quality vary wildly. For old wooden chest-type furniture, SEOUL recommends Jung Dea-young’s Donginbang shop, located at #154, 154 Samhui-dong, Dapsimni.

Getting there: Dapsimni Station, Line 5, Exit 2. Head one row of buildings in from the main road and you’ll find the buildings of the antique market.

• Insa-dong—Perhaps Seoul’s most famous center of “authenticity,” this is, unlike Dapsimni, at the heart of the conventional tourist trail. The main thoroughfare and several streets leading off it are home to various antique shops. If it’s real, it will definitely be expensive here. Try To n g m u n g w a n f o r a n c i e n t b o o k s a n d documents, Dongmundang for old paintings and calligraphic works, and Gayajae for stone Buddha figures and tiles.

Getting there: Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 6. Walk straight ahead for 50 meters, then turn left down Insadong’s main street.

• Itaewon—Seoul’s most famous “foreigner neighborhood” used to have plenty of antique shops, but only a handful remain. Try Chosun Antique (02-793-3726), or Koreana Antique, both of which offer high-quality replicas of classical Korean and Chinese furniture. The proprietor of Chosun Antique explains that the furniture is less darkly aged than some Korean antiques and tends to have lighter shades of wood with visible grain. The pieces here appeal more to the tastes of foreigners who want something that is beautiful and at the same time can function as a useful piece of furniture in the home. Expect to pay from 200,000—300,000 to several million won.

Getting there: Itaewon Station, Line 6, Exit 2. Walk straight ahead until you come to the corner opposite Chosun Antique.

For more information on locations of the places mentioned here, see our Maps & Guides supplement. travel & culture SEOUL 81

special report iii

THANKSGIvING IN SEOUL: 2010

Not even Korea is a safe place to be a turkey in November Written by Daniel Gray

W

hatever it takes, people make Thanksgiving happen. During my last Thanksgiving, I heard numerous stories of turkeys being cooked in small convection ovens, and even in rice cookers.

I also heard of groups of families and friends that braved long lines and the cold to eat turkey, pumpkin, and pie at hotels and in restaurants.

Luckily, American Thanksgiving has become more popular in the last few years. Western grocery stores, Costcos, and many hotels are getting ready for this foreign holiday. Here’s a roundup of how you can celebrate American Thanksgiving this year.

Cook your own turkey The Haddon House in Hannam-dong always has all the essentials for Thanksgiving. Turkeys are 10,000 won a kilogram, with sizes ranging from 3—5 kilos. They also have pumpkin pie mix (9,000 won), cranberry sauce (6,000 won), and stuffing—all that you need.

Costco had 7.7 kg turkeys last year for 80,000 won. You can also buy the fixings there in bulk.

take your turkey home Your best bet is the Dragon Hill Lodge, which has turkey with mashed potatoes, gravy, beans almondine, dinner rolls, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie. This feast comes in a giant gift box for only US$99.95 (112,567 won) and feeds 10—12 people. You can pick one up from Gate 17 (across from Ichon Station) or 3 (down from Noksapyeong Station, Exit 2). You can also order turkey a la carte for US$49.95.

(02) 6903-6716, www.dragonhilllodge.com Last year, E-marts in Seoul had takeout turkey dinners for sale. Also, Delibonbons at the COEX InterContinental Hotel (Samseong Station) have takeout turkey dinners with the fixings. Last year’s prices were 160,000 won + tax for 6kg turkeys and 180,000 won + tax for 8 kg turkeys. (02) 3430-8660 Grand Hilton Seoul’s Alpine Deli (Hongje 82 SEOUL November 2010

Station) will have Thanksgiving turkeys with fixings from Nov 19 to Dec 31 for 165,000— 195,000 won + tax. (02) 2287-8274

have your turkey at a restaurant Never a bad bet, but sometimes it can get quite crowded. Be sure to make reservations and get there on time for your seating. If you miss it, you might have a very long wait.

Chef Meili’s in Itaewon will be celebrating Thanksgiving from Thursday, Nov 25 to Sunday, Nov 28. It offers a pre-fixed course with cream soup, turkey with all the trimmings, stuffing, veggies, and pumpkin pie. Large groups can be accommodated. The cost will be 36,500 won per person. Be sure to make reservations. (02) 794-7024.

Gecko’s Terrace in Itaewon (behind the Hamilton Hotel) will be doing its regular Thanksgiving dinner. Prices have not yet been decided. (02) 749-9425 The Grand Hilton Seoul in Seodaemun-gu (Hongje Station) will have authentic Thanksgiving spreads at their Buffet Restaurant and Atrium Cafe on Nov 25 starting at 6pm for 70,000 won per person, with one glass of champagne and red wine included. (02) 22878271 Suji’s Restaurant in Itaewon will have Thanksgiving buffet specials on Nov 25. Their menu departs a bit from the norm, with cornbread sausage stuffing and seafood chowder. The first seating is from 5:30pm to 7:30pm, and the second seating is from 8pm to 11pm.

Also during Thanksgiving weekend, Suji’s will have a pre-fixed turkey dinner for 28,000 won per person. Be sure to make a reservation.

Takeout options are also available. (02) 7973698, www.sujis.net Finally, my cooking school, O'ngo Culinary School in Insa-dong, is going to have a potluck Thanksgiving dinner at our cooking studio. We'll have several turkeys with all the fixings, as well as homemade pies, mashed potatoes, stuffing, macaroni salad, and many other types of homemade food. It's BYOB and all you can eat.

Dinner will be from 3pm to 7pm. Come early if you would like to help cook. It's 30,000 won a person, but you can contribute a homemade dish (cooked dishes only; snacks and drinks will not be accepted for a discount) and save 10,000 won. Contact me at dan@ongofood. com or (02) 3446-1607 to make reservations.

The party is limited to 60 people.

news

METROPOLIS MEMBERS GATHER IN KOREA’S NO. 1 METROPOLIS City officials from around the world converge on Seoul for cultural policy course Shima Tal Cultural Programs Manager Greater Amman Municipality, Jordan My Visit to Korea

A

s the Asian center of the International Institute of Metropolis, Seoul hosted an International Program on Urban Cultural Policy for Metropolis Member City Officials from Sept 5 to 9 this year, attended by officials from other Metropolis member cities such Amman, Dalian, and Colombo.

Participants attended theoretical lectures on the vision and strategy behind Seoul Metropolitan Government’s cultural policies and visited key spots such as Seoul Museum of Art, Guro Arts Valley Theater, the Seoul Foundation for Arts and Culture’s creative spaces, and filmmaking spaces. They also watched performances such as “Pimatgol Sonata,” “MISO,” and “Misuda” at Seoul Namsan Gugakdang.

Participants also used their imaginations to create their own stories and produce shadow plays by taking part in a shadow “Magic Show,” part of a creative culture and arts program in conjunction with the Seoul Foundation for Arts and Culture. They visited a creative urban renewal space in Seongbuk-gu that recycles unused urban equipment, and at Sindang Creative Arcade they experienced Seoul’s efforts to work with its citizens to make them happier through culture and art.

The participants wrote letters about their experiences in Seoul before returning to their home countries—below are some excerpts.

Without hesitation, I applied to the cultural policy course organized by the Seoul Human Resource Development Center, which took place from Sept 5 to 12, 2010. I wanted so much to visit this great country that made its prosperity from challenging circumstances.

I packed up and eagerly took this marvelous trip. Although it was a long flight from my country to Korea, with many long hours of transit, as soon as I got outside the airport I immediately felt Seoul’s welcoming atmosphere. That night, I slept deeply, and the first walk early in the morning the next day was amazing. I can’t describe how considerate and helpful the team from the center was as they accompanied us throughout the visit.

They deeply touched my heart, reflecting the hospitality and devotion of the Korean people. We visited museums and cultural centers, attended performances, cooked, experienced Korean food, and dressed up in traditional garments. I will never forget the sensations that overwhelmed me when we visited the square of Sejong the Great. It enveloped me in a feeling of gratitude and honor toward this exceptional ruler. I loved Seoul so much—its people, its atmosphere, and above all its sincere determination to provide a happier and better life for all generations.

H.K. Sunil Shanthasiri Senior Sociologist Peradeniya, Sri Lanka Eight Days in Seoul One evening in early September 2010, I got a chance to visit Seoul, the greatest developing city in the world. My navigator was the Seoul Human Resource Development Center (SHRDC). This center supplies energy for the city’s population by building the capacity to think creatively and work for prosperity. On the evening of the very first day, when I arrived at my accommodations from Incheon Airport, I followed the largest shopping complex, tallest apartments, and some green patches in the city of Seoul.

At the beginning, we learned a little Korean; now I can write my name in Korean script.

I hope this language will develop as an international language in the near future. In Sri Lanka, many tuition classes teach the Korean language for those who are anticipating jobs in South Korea.

We participated in many events during the urban cultural policy training program.

All of the lectures and field visits were excellent. In the evening, we experienced media technology in modern artworks by watching various works of art; it was a mixture of modern technology and ancient Korean culture.

The basin of the Hangang River is protected from pollution. The river has been used widely for transportation, tourism, etc. I felt the attraction of the green banks of the Hangang River—they were like a protective wall from the polluted water and showed the wastewater management system of Seoul City. Our study tour of Seoul has deposited many memories in my mind that will stay with me for a lifetime. travel & culture SEOUL 83

COMMUNITY PAGE SIWA NEWCOMERS’ MEETING

Nov 4, 10am Seoul Club, Jangchung-dong

If you’re new to Seoul, meet Seoul International Women’s Association and find out more about the city at this meeting. Cost: 8,000 won.

More info: www.siwapage.com

AWC ANNUAL FASHION SHOW

Nov 5, 9:30am Hallasan Room, Seoul Club American Women’s Club event where you can buy what the various models on the catwalk are wearing, at a very affordable price and in a really fun environment.

Cost is 12,000/15,000 won members/non-members. More info: www.awckorea.org

ISANG YUN COMPETITION TOUR TO TONGYEONG

Nov 6, 8am—Nov 7, 9pm Departs from Seocho Culture and Arts Center This tour to the beautiful island of Tongyeong in far southeastern Korea coincides with the final weekend of the annual Isang Yun

Competition 2010, held this year among pianists. Tongyeong was Yun’s birthplace, and is also home to a memorial center dedicated to the composer. This is a great chance to experience a far-flung but worthwhile destination at the same time as some worldclass piano performances. Cost is 198,000/185,000 won adults/ children. For more info, call TongYeong City Tour on (055) 6445464.

I’M YOUR DJ: 003

Nov 6, 10pm—last person goes home Club VERA, Hongdae Mood: light. Dress: sexy. Dance: until you drop. VIP reservation: call 010-6279-5845. Club VERA is marked on the Hongdae page of our Maps & Guides supplement, p24, D3.

BASS CATCH-UP COFFEE

Nov 9, 10am—noon Star Moon Cafe, Fraser Suites, Insadong Catch up with old friends and make new ones at this midmonthly BASS get together. More info: www.britishseoul.com

Unlimited calls to 25 countries worldwide for only 9,900 won a month!

Just dial 1600-2042 from your mobile phone

BOOK SIGNING: MELANIE STEYN

Nov 11, 1pm—4pm Suncheon National University Museum Lobby

A chance to meet Melanie Steyn, author of the recently released novel "Once Around the Sun," and get your copy of it signed.

Published by Seoul Selection, “Once Around the Sun" is a short novel based on the lives of four members—or three generations—of a Korean family in a rural fishing village in southern Korea. Steyn, who teaches in the Department of English Education at Suncheon National University and has lived in Korea since 2002, creates the fictional Lee family and narrates a year in the life of four of its members. At around 130 pages, “Once Around the Sun” is written in accessible and entertaining prose and is a rare and interesting example of a foreign writer creating and entering the minds of four Korean characters.

Inquires should go to Kay at director@seoulselection.com.

KARNEVAL AN RHEIN UND HAN 2010

Nov 22, 10am—noon Seoul Club, Jangchung-dong

An event to mark the start of the traditional German carnival season. Featuring a surprise event, a tombola, carnival music and dance, free snacks and drinks and a bar with Kolsch beer. Entry is free. For more information, see www.1-skv.kr (in German and Korean).

Instead of BASS’s monthly Tuesday meeting, here is an opportunity to kick-off your Christmas shopping.

There will be many vendors in attendance selling unique items, along with a table of new condition items donated by BASS members.

All vendors have kindly donated to BASS charities.

Cost (incl light refreshments): 10,000/15,000 won members/nonmembers. More info: www.britishseoul.com

SIWA COFFEE MORNING

Nov 17, 9:30am—11:30am Grand Ambassador Hotel Coffee with Seoul International Women’s Association. Cost: 12,000/17,000 won members/ non-members. More info: www. siwapage.com

AWC NEWCOMERS LUNCHEON

Nov 19, 10:30am Vin Vino Restaurant, Itaewon

Helping newcomers to Seoul feel right at home. Cost is 15,000 won for both members and nonmembers. More info: www. awckorea.org

BROKENTEETH PRESENTS FRENCH ATTACK!—MANEGE 88

Nov 19 Club Answer, Cheongdam-dong

To apply, call 1600-2042 or visit www.16002042.com * Local call charges apply, according to your mobile phone service provider’s price scheme.

BASS CHRISTMAS FAIR

Nov 11, 7:11pm Goethe-Institut Korea, Seoul Square

A new era for clubbing in Seoul has come: BROKENTEETH is proud to announce the birth of the FRENCH ATTACK parties, introducing to Korea the most talented DJs and producers among newcomers on the FRENCH electronic music scene.

More info/reservation www. brokenteeth.kr, info@brokenteeth. kr or 010-5595-1909.

KOTESOL DAEJEONCHUNGCHEONG SYMPOSIUM AND THANKSGIVING DINNER

Nov 27, 10am—6pm (symposium) and 6pm—8pm (dinner) Hoseo University, Cheonan A range of practical classroombased workshops and presentations to enhance your teaching skills set. Cost is 15,000/20,000 won members/ non-members for the symposium and 25,000 for the Thanksgiving dinner (pre-registration required).

More info: www.kotesol.org or call/ email conference chair Brian Quirk on 019-470-5316 or quirk_brian@ hotmail.com

O’NGO THANKSGIVING DAY POTLUCK DINNER

Nov 27, 3pm—7pm

O'ngo Culinary School in Insadong is going to have a potluck Thanksgiving Dinner at their cooking studio—see Daniel Gray’s Thanksgiving article on p82 for more details or contact dan@ ongofood.com.

www.moveonekorea.com

2010 SIWA AND DIPLOMATIC COMMUNITY BAZAAR

Nov 30, 10am—3pm Grand Hilton Hotel, Hongeundong

SIWA (The Seoul International Women's Association) and the diplomatic community are hosting their 32nd annual bazaar, bringing you handicrafts, foods, wines, antiques, clothing, entertainment and other treasures from around the world.

The bazaar is a great cultural experience and shopping opportunity. A silent auction and a lucky draw include flight tickets, hotel stays and over 1,000 other gifts and prizes.

Tickets cost 8,000/10,000 won pre-sale/on the door.

Contact bazaar@siwapage. com for ticket sales.

Children under 12 years of age are admitted for free.

All proceeds go to Korean charities For additional information contact Lorrie Gomes at bazaar@siwapage.com.

FKCCI GALA 2010— UNE SOIREE AVEC PATRICIA KAAS

Dec 4, from 6:30pm. BooKiNG DeADLiNe iS NoV 12 Grand Hyatt Seoul The prestigious annual gala of the French-Korean Chamber of Commerce and Industry this year boasts as its highlight an exceptional musical performance by remarkable French artist Patricia Kaas. One of France’s best-known artists internationally, Kaas has sold more than 16 million albums in 47 countries. Her new stage show, “Kabaret,” celebrates the glamor of the 1930s, paying tribute to the singer’s personal heroines, including Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Suzy Solidor and Martha Graham.

The gala, attended by more than 800 distinguished guests, is a highlight of the French-Korean business and social calendar.

Cost: 250,000/270,000 won members/non-members per seat, or 2.5 million/2.7 million won

members/non-members per table.

For more info, contact Ms. YongJae Kim on (02) 2268-9531 or admi@fkcci.com.

2010 OPEN LECTURES ON KOREAN CULTURE

Nov 6—Nov 23, selected tuesdays & Saturdays The Korea Foundation Cultural Center

A series of lectures on the fine arts, architecture and music of Korea, accompanied by trips to related sites.

Program Nov 6 (Sat.) 2—4pm | Viewing traditional performance Nov 9 (Tue) 7—9pm | Korean Music I: Current and future Nov 16 (Tue) 7—9pm | Korean Music II: Pansori Nov 23 (Tue) 7—9pm | Korean Music III: Traditional and contemporary gayageum music For more info, visit www.kfcenter. or.kr/english, call (02) 2151-6500 or send an email to hykim@kf.or.kr.

AWC BOOK GROUP

2nd Mon of each month, 1:30pm La Bocca, Itaewon area

Contact Vicki Frawley at frawley@ gmail.com for more info.

CLUB DAY

Last friday of every month, 9pm—5am 21 clubs in Hongdae area

Making it easy every step of the way 02-372-7000 Services • Moving Services • Relocation Services • Secure Storage Services • Vehicle Transportation • Fine Art Shipping • Multilingual Staff and Services

Highly popular monthly club night— pay just 15,000 won for entry into all participating clubs and one free drink.

EXPAT GROUPS ON FACEBOOK Korean Americans in Seoul Nightlife in Seoul—lively page with plenty of members ★Seoul-Circle★Drinking Beer, Networking with International Friends★—self-explanatory Seoul City Improv— improvisational comedy Seoul Veggie Club Vegan Korea Vegetarians in Korea

KOREAN CULTURAL CLASSES FOR FOREIGNERS Seorae Global Village Center - Sagunja: Nov 5, 12, 19 & 26 (Fri), 10am—noon - Bojagi: 09-16-23-30 (Tue), 2pm— 3:30pm - Kimchi making experience: Nov 3 (Wed), morning.

- Korean traditional cookery (japchae ): Nov 5 (Fri), 2pm— 3:30pm

Global web: www.moveonerelo.com

travelKorea & culture SEOUL 85 Il Yang Bldg., 164-6 Yeomri-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul 121-874, Tel. +82-2-372-7000

- Discovering traditional Korean winter teas: Nov 12 (Fri), 1pm— 3pm - Visit to National Museum of Korea: Nov 16 (Tue), 9:15am—2pm - Natural dyeing experience: No 18 (Thu), 1pm—3pm - North African pastry experience: Nov 26 (Fri), 10am—3pm - Christmas pastry for adults: Nov 29 (Mon): 1pm—3:30pm - Wine: Nov 4, 11, 18 & 25 (Thu), 8pm—10pm - Art lessons for children: Nov 12 & 26 (Fri), 3:30pm—5:00pm Pre-registration is required: call (02) 2155-8916 or mail tbn2@sba. seoul.kr.

More info: seoul.global.co.kr/ seorae

LADIES NIGHT & OPEN MIC

every tuesday until Dec 28, 8pm—4:30am Rhythm & Booze, Bucheon

Mojito, peach crush, cosmopolitan, tequila sunrise and melon ball cocktails all on offer to ladies at 4,000 won, plus an open mic. For more details, look up Rhythm & Booze on Facebook.

86 SEOUL November 2010

NFL GAME REPLAYS

every Monday until Jan 17, 2011, 3:30am—6:30am Rhythm & Booze, Bucheon

The NFL season has started!!!

Knowing that most people can't be up for the games, Rhythm & Booze has purchased the NFL package and will be showing the game replays the next day, which means you can come in Monday after work. Games screened will depend on what games were played and what the masses want.

For more details, look up Rhythm & Booze on Facebook.

KOREAN COOKING CLASSES AND MARKET TOUR Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef.

Classes held at O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga). After class, tour the market for your ingredients.

Classes include dakgalbi (red chili chicken), haemul pajeon (seafood pancake), bulgogi , bibimbap , and more. Mon—Fri 10am and 2pm (special classes on Sat). Contact Daniel Gray at dan@ongofood.com or (02) 3446-1607.

O’NGO KOREAN NIGHT DINING TOUR & TASTE TOUR Night Dining Tours start at Kwangjang Market and continue to historic Jongno 3-ga where you can eat Korean BBQ, drink makgeolli (rice wine) and dine at a tent (pojangmacha ) restaurant.

Korea Taste Tours send you with a culinary guide to visit a Buddhistinspired Korean restaurant, get a quick tour of Insa-dong eateries, stop by a teahouse, and enjoy rice wine and Korean bar food snacks.

Both tours cost 80,000 won per person. For time and other info, contact Daniel Gray at dan@ ongofood.com or (02) 3446-1607.

RAS TOURS One of Korea’s most popular expat tour providers is the Korea Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society. This month's tours include: Tongdosa and Haeinsa temples (Nov 6—7), Yongmunsa temple and Yongmunsan hiking (Nov 7), Land of exile: southern Jeolla Province (Nov 13—14), Inner Seorak and South Seorak nature-rhapsody (Nov 20—21), Cheorwon County (near the central DMZ) (Nov 27),

Maisan Provincial Park (Nov 28). Costs and departure times/ locations vary according to tour.

Advanced reservation necessary.

See the RAS Korea Branch website (above) for more info, or contact Mrs Sue J Bae at (02) 7639483 or raskb@kornet.net.

SCOTTISH DANCE PRACTICE Every Wed until Nov 17, 7:30pm Broughton Club of the British Embassy Essential dancing practice as this years St. Andrew’s Ball (Nov 20, Marriott Hotel) approaches. Free admission but pre-registration essential. Contact Douglas Barrett at douglas.barrett@sky.com. No dancing partner necessary.

SIWA NOVEMBER TOURS Seoul International Women’s Association runs a lively program of tours and activities this month.

See www.siwapage.com for more details.

Oriental medicine

Respiratory Problems

Part 2: Allergic Rhinitis

Dr. Raimund Royer (raimundroyer@jaseng.co.kr) is Korea’s only “Western” Oriental medical doctor and the medical director of the Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine’s International Clinic (www.jaseng.net).

Uncontrollable sneezing, an itchy, runny, or stuffy nose, and teary eyes are symptoms with which many of us are familiar. Some experience them only during certain seasons, like in spring, summer and autumn; these are the times when tree pollen, grass pollen, and weed pollen, respectively, prevail. The term that specialists reserve for this condition is “seasonal allergic rhinitis,” whereas laymen call it “hay fever.” An unfortunate few, however, experience symptoms throughout the year whenever exposed to certain airborne allergens that range from house dust to pet hair. The name given to this condition is perennial allergic rhinitis.

functioning of the entire respiratory tract, including the nasal passages. The Lung group also includes the external skin, so the Lungs are truly considered the first “wall of defense” against all kinds of external intruders.

Key elements: heat and phlegm

Allergic rhinitis is an inflammation of the nasal mucosa that is triggered by an allergic reaction.

People with a family history of allergies are more likely to develop allergic rhinitis, particularly those individuals with other atopic (allergyrelated) conditions such as eczema and asthma.

Allergic rhinitis affects more than just the nasal passages. It can also cause minor blockage of the ears, headaches, irritability, loss of sleep, and fatigue. Since these symptoms also interfere with cognitive functioning, they can impair work performance considerably.

Western medicine considers allergic rhinitis as an immune system “over-response” to certain particles. Therefore, it is treated with medications that suppress bodily immune response chemicals. Antihistamine, decongestants, and anti-inflammatory drugs are administered .

For the treatment of acute allergic rhinitis, the two key elements that must be addressed are heat and phlegm/dampness. Those with “hotter” constitutions, particularly children, adolescents, and young adults, must be aware that a diet that includes greasy food, overly spiced food, or alcohol can increase body heat. Some studies suggest that modern diet patterns, along with stress, have contributed to the soaring prevalence of allergic rhinitis in developed countries. Correspondingly, symptoms can be mitigated through dietary adjustments. On the other hand, wind-heat-dampness patterns are treated with medicinal preparations that include herbs to disperse the wind (Ledebouriella divaricata and Schizonepeta tenuifolia ), clear the heat (Lonicera japonica ), and drain dampness (Angelica dahurica and magnolia flower buds), thereby clearing the nasal passages and sinuses.

Acupuncture treatment is also an effective tool for treating hay fever symptoms. For selftreatment, certain acupoints can be massaged with the fingertips for a few minutes, several times a day. Those points include the spot located on the forehead right between the eyebrows and the spot located on the nasolabial groove adjacent to the nostrils.

Traditional Oriental diagnosis

Lifestyle changes

According to Traditional Oriental Medicine, allergic rhinitis is caused by an invasion of External Wind, Cold, or Heat (exopathogens) with an underlying Lung Qi and Defense Qi deficiency that may be further complicated by Spleen deficiency. The Spleen is in charge of transforming food energy into body energy.

Spleen underactivity may manifest itself in the formation of dampness and phlegm.

Lung Qi is responsible for the proper

In order to successfully cope with allergic rhinitis, diet and lifestyle changes are necessary.

Depending on the cause of the allergy, you should minimize dust-collecting household items like carpets and use air purifiers or dust filters.

Avoid walking in the countryside in the late afternoon when the pollen count is highest, and keep the bedroom window shut at night. Last but not least, reduce stress to help to balance your immune system.

Western interpretation

travel & culture SEOUL 87

Seoul of zen

A Way to Remove Suffering

Much as you like wealth and fame, you must leave them some day.

Though not interested in them, you still can't escape death some day.

As you have to bid farewell to everybody around you once in your life time, you must get yourself ready for the farewell.

Though the suffering is beyond description when you leave yourself, you must leave yourself.

Religious life may relieve you of the suffering but you will have to feel the same suffering at your final moment.

Then, what preparation do we need to leave this life without any suffering?

Buddha discovered a lot of ways to avoid this suffering, and afterwards patriarchs also had their unique ways.

These are the ways of Seon (Zen meditation).

Since practicing today is also for finding the way to remove suffering and realizing the cause of Samsara correctly, do make a good observation.

88 SEOUL November 2010

Written by Master Subul Sunim of Anguk Zen Center Translated by Boo Ahm (Song Soo-kyong)

travel & culture SEOUL 89

Add yourself as a friend