Moscow Expat Life - Issue 4

AUTUMN 2013

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

Driving in Moscow

Pre-School Education The IWC

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an t

tin

ta ur

Lis

Re s

Renewal of Residence Permit

Moscow Good Food Club

INDEX Community:

5. Social Movers 6.Community News 10. Getting a Russian Residence Permit Renewed 12. Pre-school education 16. The IWC

Business:

19. Business News 20. AWARA Law Conference 23. German Business Club Event 26. Ceilidh Dancing 28. Interview with the Indonesian Ambassador 32. The Danish Business Club in Moscow 36. The Luxury Network

Charities:

Real Estate:

44. Acquiring Property in Thailand

Health:

48. Seasonal Affective Disorder

Moscow Personalities: 52. Mark and Louis Gilbert 55. Peter Dick 58. Wouter van der Wiel

Driving:

60. Driving in Moscow

Ecology:

62. Siberian Tigers

Travel:

64. Bogdarnya

Retro:

66. 1991 68. Those Were The Days My Friend

AUTUMN 2013

38. Preodelenie 40. Lavka Radostei 42. Nastenka

My Moscow: 70. Borodino Battles 72. MMOMA

Food:

76. Moscow Good Food Club 78. Food News 79. Restaurant Listings

Community Services: 92. Business Clubs/Organisations 93. Woman’s clubs 94. List of charities 96. Essential Information

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Letter

T

his issue we have a broad selection of reading material for you, all of which has very little to do with current political arguments, but hopefully everything to do with working & living here.

Our main feature article this issue continues the education theme and concentrates on pre-school education. In this article, parents

and educators try to shed some light on the highly complex issues involved in not only choosing the right school, but the right kind of school, as choice in Moscow is wider than one might think. As the fall sets in and we drift slowly into longer nights and darker days, Lucy Kenyon and Dr Ksenia Yadykina inform us that getting depressed is nothing unusual, it has got something to do with the way that the lack of daylight alters our perception, and thus our ability to cope. ‘Seasonal Affective Disorder’ (SAD) is in fact a recognized illness and treatable.

The International Women’s Club has always been a key element of Moscow expat culture. In this issue, current IWC President Izabella Zajączkowska and Sonya Michon Floc’hay, IWC PR Chair talk about the work of their organization, and

Paying for your mobile telephone at a terminal There are many different makes and models of pay machines which handle mobile phone payments in use in Moscow, however most of them work in the same way.

Step 1.

Identify the service you need: The first ‘home’ screen will ask you what kind of services you want. The Russian words: ‘ОПЛАТА УСЛУГ’ (payment for services) are what you want.

Step 2.

the challenges involved in heading up an organization that does such amazing work in bringing together and supporting women from all over the world.

In our continuing drive to include expats not just from the Anglo-American communities, we feature reports of the Wirtschaftsclubrussland, Kasper Ditlevsen, the chairman of the Dutch Business Club , Canadians Mark and Lois Gilbert, and an interview with the His Excellency the Indonesian Ambassador. We also include the ultimate biker Peter Dick from middle-England, whose attitude is totally addictive.

The Moscow Good Food Club started off with a bang at Night Flight in July, and you can read exactly what happened on that eventful evening in this issue. Enjoy.

‘ВПЕРЕД’ (NEXT). On most terminals this is coloured orange, but make sure you don’t inadvertently press any other buttons which may download various entertainment programmes onto your phone.

Identify the service you want: You will be presented by an array of services which indicate the various services which the company operating the terminal has signed up for. Fortunately, to keep things simple, the logos for the most popular mobile telephone companies are displayed on the top row.

Step 4.

Step 3.

Having identified your mobile telephone ‘operator’ by its logo, you will then be asked to key in your telephone number. Having done this, you hit the button which says

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Pay. You insert notes into the machine and the amount you have paid comes up on screen minus commission. You then hit the button: ОПЛАТИТЬ (PAY).

That’s it!

Business Insights

Do you enjoy good food and good company?

Then join the Moscow Good Food Club

The primary aim of the Moscow Good Food Club is to allow the Chefs in some of Moscow’s finest eateries the opportunity to prepare a special meal for connoisseurs to

appreciate and enjoy.

The theme will generally be the food from a specific country or region accompanied by the appropriate wines.

The company will be varied an interested and whilst appreciating the finesse of the Chef, lively conversation and new friendships will accompany the meal.

There is no cost to join!

To receive invitations to the Moscow Good Food Club please contact Kim Waddoup kim@aigroup.ru Each dinner will be limited to 35 people and pre-payment is required to confirm space.

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Business Insights Publisher:

Kim Waddoup, kim@aigroup.ru

Editor:

John Harrison, editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Designer:

Julia Nozdracheva, designer@moscowexpatlife.ru

Researchers: Anastasia Soldatova Aleksandra Markova Alena Kizimova Natalia Alexandrovna

Administration: Alina Kurpas Liliya Islamova

Contributors: Olga Samsonova, Lucy Kenyon, Julia Popova, Don Graig, Chris Helmbrecht, Jonathan Tubb, Peter Hainsworth, Angela Pepperworth, Kim Waddoup, Dr Ksenia Yadukina, Chris Slappendel, Helen Borodina Philipp Kashpar

Editorial Address: 3rd Frunzenskaya 5, Bldg 1, Office 1 119270 Moscow, Russia Tel +7 495 777 2577 www.MoscowExpatLife.ru info@moscowexpatlife.ru

All rights reserved Printed by Blitzprint. Moscow representative office: 127051,Moscow, Petrovsky Boulevard, Dom 10

This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. TY50-01602 Moscow expat Life occasionally uses material we believe has been placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim ownership of something we have published, we will be pleased to make a proper acknowledgement.

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Social Movers

Don Craig

This Summer things have been rather quiet with attendances to many events being far lower than anticipated and in many cases less than in 2012. This may well have something to do with the weather or perhaps because many people decided to get out of town for the season. For now we are praying for an Indian Summer, which is better known in Russia as “Бабье Лето” (Women’s Summer).

The usual haunts such as Krisha Mira, Soho Rooms, Strelka and Olive Beach kept people entertained with their summer programs whilst attendance to other venues is a bit of a let down.

Local favourites such as Casa Agave, Hudson, and Papa’s Place have also managed to keep things going with

their usual steady performance and service, though even they have struggled through the weekdays along with everyone else.

Included to this mix this summer is the new Standard Bar which opened its doors and flourished thanks to Doug Steele being at the helm. At the same time I quietly took over the Big Buffalo Bar & Grill project and started breathing new life into it with some great music and events and this is developing nicely.

The upcoming fall promises not to disappoint with a number of new restaurants and events popping up all over Moscow. Remember the name ‘Bad Room’ and keep your eye on the bouncing ball as this year is far from over!!!

Autumn. The leaves are falling and people are coming back from their vacations. Usually in mid-Sept, Moscow’s parties are picking up in terms of energy and the public.

We’ll continue with our Thursday events at Time-Out Bar, Mendeleev, Soho Rooms and Jagger. Besides we’ll start occasional Friday night parties with a disco theme. We may also go back to our roots and throw

a Labelfucker party now and then, with a great mix of people, NO FACECONTROL and cool mashup hits. A pure party! Besides all that we have an all-German party coming up on Germany’s national holiday, Oct 3rd and later on Nov 9th (Fall of the Wall). Party On. More to come. Check our Facebook groups LBLFCKR and WE! for details and updates.

Chris Helmbrecht

Community News The 8th annual traditional church fete On Saturday, Sept. 14, 2013, from 2pm-6pm, St. Andrew’s Anglican Church in Moscow and the British Business Club will host the 8th annual traditional church fete in the heart of Moscow on the grounds of St. Andrew’s Anglican Church in Moscow (8, Voznesensky Per.).

It’s an afternoon of fun, food, music, children’s games, and prizes for young and old and a great day out for all the family!

All proceeds will go to Taganka Children’s Fund and the St Andrew’s Church restoration fund.

Games for the kids–and adults-includes: Splash the teacher; Whack

the rat; Balloon pop; Face painting; Henna tattoos; Musical chairs; Egg and spoon race; Tug-o-war; Traditional Tombola; a Balloon race; and Raffle.

The entrance fee is 200 rubles for adults and 100 rubles for children.

Children under 12 in fancy dress will get in free! Games tickets will be 25 rubles each.

St. Andrew’s Church in Moscow (8, Voznesensky Per.).

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Community News

British Business Club and the IRB Rugby World cup 7’s in Moscow Moscow continues to attract world class sporting events and June 28th through June 30th at the Luzhniki Stadium, the sixth RWC Sevens took place. The BBC was appointed as the official hospitality provider for the event and together with the IRB and Russian Rugby Union worked on providing a fully catered package for Rugby Sports fans not only resident in Moscow but from all over the world.

24 men’s and 16 women’s teams from as many countries battled the heat and the thunderstorms with New Zealand finally winning both categories.

In the side pitches the Russian Youth Rugby www.rugbyfund.ru was playing its own tournament and we will surely see some of these players coming from this group to represent Russia in the future, especially now that Rugby Sevens has been accepted as an Olympic event.

It was these young players that were the inspiration for the BBC to choose a charity to donate ALL of the proceeds that were made from the hospitality. The BBC raised 800,000 RUR for Russian Youth Rugby and wishes all the budding Rugby players’ success in the future development of Rugby in Russia

Jonathan Tubb Director of the BBC Hej Herfra Jeg har skrevet vores hjemmeside på. Du gør jo meget tydeligt opmærksom på at vi ikke lukker alle og enhver ind, og trafik skader jo aldrig.

Med venlig hilsen/ Best regards Helena Bollesen Mob DK: +45 2683 8393 Mob RU: +7 903 509 2970 Skype: helena_bollesen

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Free jive dance classes in Moscow !

Jive dancing is great fun, keeps you fit and is a good social skill to have. Free beginners classes take place on Saturdays in Moscow. Not essential to come with a partner.

For more info contact Richard at richardhume.hume@gmail.com or phone +7 903 558 7135

Jewish? In Moscow?

Would you like to observe or be part of Jewish life in the capital of Russia?

Warm, inviting atmosphere. Shabbat meals, holiday celebrations and special programs for children and families.

Join us by visiting www.jewishmoscow.com or calling:+74957687392

AWO: a look

inside

Interview by Julia Popova

Community

Twenty years have passed since a few American ladies got together, swapped notes and started organizing weekly meetings to help each other and other American women in Moscow figure out how to live here. The American Women’s Organization (AWO) has now grown into a large network with about 195 members.

Vice President Janet Sibley, Treasurer Cindy Rathmann, and Lisa Bowen, Ex Officio of AWO gave Moscow expat Life a glance at what it is like inside the American Women’s Organization.

The AWO President, Harolyn Rose, regrets that she was back in the U.S. when the interview was conducted, and was unable to take part.

When I came to one of your Wednesday meetings to ask for an interview, I was met as if I were the only person you were waiting for. Is it like this for all newcomers?

How do you plan AWO activities?

Janet Sibley: You met Susan Pearcy who is our Hospitality chairperson. Susan tries to make contact with new people just as they are coming in, and lets them know that we are available to answer all their questions.

The ladies on our Membership committee also meet new members and can give helpful information. Our Newcomers meetings are the second Wednesday of each month, but all members are welcomed to attend each of our three meetings which are held each month.

Lisa Bowen: We have interest groups. Each one has its own leader who gets contact information from interested members and keeps everyone informed on meeting times and locations. We have a committee that coordinates all the interest groups. For example, if you want to join the book club, you can contact the Interest Group committee chairperson or the leader of that interest group, and you’ll receive information about those meetings by email. We communicate mostly by emails.

Do members have to be U.S. citizens?

What are your Interests Groups for this year?

Janet Sibley: If you are a citizen of the USA, Mexico or Canada or if you married to a man from these countries, you are automatically able to join AWO. We also have a certain percentage of places for associate members from different places in the world. In addition to North Americans, we also have members from Russia, Australia, Great Britain, South Africa and other countries.

Cindy Rathmann: Understanding Russia is one of our popular interest groups. We have a Russian lady who comes every Monday and lectures on an aspect of Russia culture. This is very helpful in helping people to adapt to life here.

Lisa Bowen: One of the interest groups is called ‘Spread Sunshine’. We visit the Moscow Pediatric

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Community Oncology Hospital. Ronald MacDonald built a kitchen there, and we go once a month and bring food to the parents of children receiving treatment at the hospital.

Janet Sibley: For the past 17 years, we have organized an Arts and Crafts Festival to support the hospital. The next Arts and Crafts Festival will be held November 14th. We invite different Russian vendors who sell crafts and other items to participate. The festival is held at the Park Place Hotel.

Janet Sibley: There are many Interest Groups.

Every member gets a list of the groups and the contact information for the different group leaders. These groups cover a wide range of interests, and these can change as members come and go.

Is it so necessary to speak Russian in Moscow?

Lisa Bowen: No it isn’t. I speak very little Russian and I’ve been here for 7 years. I’ve noticed that the

street signs and maps are in English. I wish I’d had more time to learn the language. When I arrived here, I was overwhelmed while trying to find somewhere to live. My daughter and son were here and going to school. Now that they’ve left home, I should have more time to learn.

Cindy Rathmann: It depends on your schedule. We do have a deep desire to communicate with the people of the country that we live in. We like Russians, and we open up our homes to meet them. From what I’ve seen, many Russians, especially the young ones, are very fluent in English. We conduct bible study lessons at our home and most of them speak English.

What do Russians and Americans share?

Janet Sibley: Like in America, family seems to be very important here.

Lisa Bowen: Russians are very patriotic, just like Americans.

Cindy Rathmann: One thing I really appreciate about Russian culture and people is the depth of

relationships and friendships. This is so precious. It is also true with the friendships we have made with Americans here. If I have a problem, I can count on these ladies or some of my Russian friends.

Is living in Russia hard?

Lisa Bowen: As a whole, I like Russian people. We may not understand each other but I don’t face big hardships.

Janet Sibley: Living here is mainly a positive experience. It makes things more difficult for me because I don’t speak the language very well. It would be more helpful if I did, and I would have more opportunities to interact with Russian people.

Cindy Rathmann: On the one hand, it is difficult.

I have children and grandchildren back home and it is difficult to be away from them. On the other hand, this is

our second time here, and we enjoy it. I find the culture is rich, the relationships are deep and true. There are sorrows and joys, just like in America.

Lisa Bowen: There’s a gap we try to fill with the help of AWO. That is why the AWO is so strong. When our expat members arrive, they’re faced with some new challenges with their move to Moscow. We try to make life easier here. That’s where we fit in and support each other. We are a social group with a long history of rich relationships.

A delicious traditional American cake carefully prepared by Janet Sibley with fresh cold tea made a marvelous ending for our interview. I left Janet’s apartment absolutely happy with the thought that you would never be bored and lonely having such friends.

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Community

Renewing the Russian Residence Permit Peter Hainsw o

rth

Then a form needs to be filled in which contains no complex questions apart from stating one’s provable income

I

have recently had to renew my residence permit (Vid Na Zhitelstvo), which was issued four and a half years ago.

Recalling the experience of gathering all the documents needed to apply for my ‘temporary’ residence permit, and then the full residence permit , the prospect of renewing my permit did not fill me with joy.

My enquiries started at my local ‘passportny stol,’ where residence permit holders go once a year to ‘re-

register’, once a year. Re-registration means proving that you have not been out of the country for more than 6 months by showing the stamps in your passport. A simple form is filled in and bank statements showing that one has more than 120,000 roubles in a Russian bank account, or a valid work contract are shown. This process usually took me about 30 minutes.

At the Passportny Stol I was told that to get my Vid Na Zhitelstvo renewed, I needed to go to the Federal Migration Service УФМС for the Moscow Central Region which deals with residence permits. The address for this office is on

Bolshaya Polyanka 33/41, phone number: 8 499 238 4178.

Naturally enough, any encounters with Russian officialdom usually require more than one visit.

Queuing comes as default, however on my first visit I waited for all of five minutes before a pleasant but official female officer told me that to get my residence permit renewed I need to firstly get my passport translated into Russian and the translation certified by a notary. Then a form needs to be filled in which contains no complex questions apart from stating one’s provable income. I asked if I could not answer this, the answer was yes, as long as I proved that I had a minimum of R. 120,000 in a bank

Naturally enough, any encounters with Russian officialdom usually require more than one visit

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Community P A S S P O R T N Y S T O L – R E - R E G I S T E R F e d e r a l M i g r a t i o n S e r v i c e У Ф М С B o l s h a y a P o l y a n k a 3 3 / 4 1 Need to firstly get passport translated into Russian and the translation certified by a notary in Russia. I chose to take the capital route. So I then proceeded to get a letter from my bank stating how much I had in my account. As my account is in a Russian affiliate of a western bank, the statement was in Russian, and this was enough.

I was also given a paying-in slip to take to a Sberbank, to pay in R. 2,000. I was relieved to discover that no medical is necessary. I was not asked to prove my address or produce any other documents such as a marriage certificate.

On my second visit I had to wait considerably longer: two hours in a very hot corridor. This time I was asked to re-write certain answers in the application form in the correct way. For example one cannot write ‘No’ to the question about whether one has been arrested whilst living here. One has to write ‘No, I have not been accused of having committed any crime,’ not just ‘no’. In other words, it is necessary to repeat the question.

It is advisable to study ‘correctly filled in forms’ that are pasted on

the walls, or take a picture and ask a literate Russian friend to help you fill them in. This time I was asked for more financial information. I was asked to supply statements showing

My third visit also entailed a long wait, and this time I was informed that because my passport expires in a year, my new Vid na Zhitlestvo would only last one year. But the officer said that if I managed to get a new passport before my present Vid Na Zhitelstvo expired, and presented it within the next three months, I would get a new one for the full five years. On refection I guess it was pretty stupid of me to presume that it could be any other way as the Vid Na Zhiteltsvo is not a passport in itself, rather a document allowing one to enter and leave the Russian Federation without a visa, and work here legally. It is issued on the basis of a full, foreign passport, but it is not a passport in itself.

On my fourth visit, my documents were

the flow of money through my rouble account and a letter from one of my employers stating that I was employed on a regular basis.

The letter did not have to state how much I was paid. Luckily all of this was not a problem.

accepted. On talking to the rather interesting people who I got to know whilst queuing up; I gathered that each case is individual and the officials can basically ask for any further documents that they see fit, however the rigorous examination of one’s reason for existence that is carried out when applying for the original residence permit is not repeated. Prolonging the permit is more akin to confirming that you are the same person, and that you still have the means to support yourself.

It is advisable to study ‘correctly filled in forms’ that are pasted on the walls, or take a picture and ask a literate Russian friend to help you fill them in

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Community

Pre-school education in

Moscow

John Harrison

A

ny expatriate family thinking of moving to Moscow or already here with young children is going to be thinking very seriously about nurseries in Moscow. Finding a place for your child is quite complex, more so than it may seem until parents actually arrive. On the one hand there seem to be an abundance of nurseries available: Russian state ‘Detskiye Sadi’ (kindergartens), private morning-only nurseries and pre-school facilities in the independent schools in Moscow.

However there are many factors to be considered which limit parents’ choice: how long they intend to be here, whether they want their children to learn Russian or not, how far they live from the nursery of their choice, whether they value a western or are happy with the Russian approach, and of

Chloe Ogilvie course income levels. Moscow, for the few people who don’t know, is not a cheap place any more. This article is a whistle-stop tour around some of the existing facilities. It is not my intention to write about all providers as that is simply not possible, and the emphasis is on end-users (the parents’) points of views rather than those of the education providers.

Russian ‘Detskiye Sadi’ Let’s start with the Russian state kindergartens. An expat named Jay mentioned that the Russian schools are “very attractive to expats married to Russians. Anybody living here can send their children to them, although the procedure is quite lengthy. You have to go to their website and choose three or four schools in the area you want.,

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Jay May and then you have to wait to see if your name goes on the list. They aren’t expensive, something like 1,000 roubles a month. But you have to give the teachers gifts; a bit of money or perfume, buy toys for the school, things like that.

These schools are I think pretty professional. The kids can go there all day, they all have a little bed, they can sleep there, they get food. They have psychologists and psychiatrists, they do music, dancing, painting.

I would be quite happy to send my kids to a Russian kindergarten, but they don’t speak English there.

Nevertheless, if they can learn Russian, if the expat is going to be here for four or five years, it’s an advantage for that child in the future. Most of the smaller private kindergartens don’t provide lunches, whereas the Russian schools have

Community

canteens. The Russian schools don’t like to accept kids in nappies before the age of two, they like the kids to be clean before you send them, they don’t really like to change nappies.”

The state kindergartens sound great, but actually getting your child enrolled into one of the state nurseries, is not as straightforward as it may seem. Brit Chloe Ogilvie who has been here for three years has experienced a veritable odyssey trying to do this. In her own words: “Because we knew that we are going to be here for quite a long time, possibly for another 7 or 8 years, our approach was that we wanted our son to integrate more here in the Russian system. We think that learning to speak Russian as a Russian does, and not as a foreign language is a real advantage. The world is an international place now. But neither of us speak Russian, and the task of signing up for Russian state education was not easy.”

“When we moved to Frenzenskaya area from Tverskaya we took our son out of a lovely nursery called Sad Sam’s where we were originally. We put our child’s name on the government nursery waiting list, and then met the local administrator and presented a lot of paperwork, such as birth certificate, a letter from my husband’s work saying that his job is long-term and so on. We were told that there is a separate list for Russians and a separate list for non-Russians. We realised that the administrator holds all the power. Every time we approached her we realised just how much of an outsider one is here.

The impression we got was that she was telling us that Russian children are more important. At least

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Community there was no attempt to hide it. I was thinking the trouble people would get in if that sort of thing happened at home.”

“As it happens, there was one really amazing government-run nursery kindergarten behind our building, and I knew somebody who sent her child there and had a really good experience. I met the headmistress and she said that she’d love to have our child here, that

When you look at the lists of private nurseries there seem to be many choices, but when it comes to finding somewhere near your home and within your price range, the options are limited we have lots of places. When we went back to the administrator after meeting the headmistress, she told us that we had no chance of getting into that school because there were too many Russians further up the list, and that we shouldn’t even bother waiting. So we asked her to suggest some other schools in the area. The first one she suggested was quite a long way away. I was pregnant at the time, winter was coming on and walking twentyfive minutes with a toddler every morning was no fun. The school

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itself had no outside area, it was very small inside and I thought that this is ridiculous, but I had to be careful, I didn’t want to drop down any places on the list. The administrator also suggested a school for the visually impaired, which encouraged us to develop our sense of humour.”

“Then we found another state nursery not too far away and our son went there. But he became more morose by the day. We realised he

was being isolated because he is a foreigner and didn’t speak Russian, it was probably the teacher’s fault as this was her first teaching job, rather than a systemic problem. Teachers don’t get paid an awful lot here and there is a high staff turnover. Then we realised there were real problems because our son was experiencing isolation and wasn’t playing with anybody. After an incident when our son was supposed to have bitten another pupil, the teacher told us that he had to leave the school.

Another school across the road was suggested. By this time I was really sceptical, so we decided that the experiment was over. Then I still had to find him another nursery, so we were back to square one.”

Chloe’s son was finally offered a place at the state nursery where she wanted him to go originally, but it

is

mornings-only. She will now from September be taking her son to the Russian nursery in the mornings and Busy Bees nursery in the afternoons, which is a long way away. Lunch will be eaten on the way. Chloe is hoping that her son will be admitted to the afternoon sessions at the Russian school sooner rather than later.

Perhaps the biggest issue here is that if one parent is Russian, the child will be able to handle the atmosphere in Russian nurseries much more easily, and of course that parent will be able to handle the local administrator on an equal playing field. The second point is that Russian teaching methods are different from western equivalents.

As Chloe said: “All of my friends who have their children at Russian kindergartens speak Russian. We

Community

were like fish out of water and we approached it as if it was the British system, and that was rather stupid of us. Even when you get your child into a Russian nursery, there are so many rules and regulations which are all given out in Russian, which you have to be able to respond to.

An American friend of mine has a child who is left handed, and they made that child eat with her right han d. So you have to be careful to get the right school. It is surprising that the choice is so small for a city that is trying to attract so many people.”

Private nurseries When you look at the lists of private nurseries there seem to be many choices, but when it comes to finding somewhere near your home and within your price range, the options are limited. Some expats complain that a large number of expensive private Russian nurseries are opening up, which appear to be geared to attracting foreign children, but their real aim is to attract high-level Russians.

There are however a few reasonably priced nursery schools where the majority of children are foreigners and the teaching is carried out mostly by Russians, but because the majority of children are foreign, the predominant language spoken is English and the teaching is western, Busy Bees and Sad Sam’s are two of these places. As Jay mentioned: “These places attract a lot of expats. They are reasonably priced.” But there are drawbacks, they are mostly mornings-only, it just depends what people want.

Your child can be educated in both English and French if you wish, for example at Petit Cref, or in other languages at kindergartens attached to some of the embassies, but you have to be prepared to pay for what is in Moscow a luxury.”

A key factor is transport. As Jay mentioned: “Most expatriates that I know like to live either near a metro, near a kindergarten or near a school because with Moscow traffic being so bad, you can waste hours travelling each day. That’s why the small private nurseries are so popular, because they are in the centre.”

Pre-school facilities at independent schools For those parents who can afford it, and who do not want their children to integrate into the Russian system because they are not going to be here very long, or for other reasons, there are some superb facilities available

in Moscow. The big advantage is that pre-school classes at the school of your choice make it easier for children to get into the junior school or ‘year one’ of that school. Contrary to what many expatriate parents think, getting into the school of your choice here in Moscow is subject to availability of places and is not a free for all. Most schools now assess children at entry.

“We have very high expectations, and those children who have been through our nursery find it easier to access year one at a higher level. It is not automatic entry in our school, children are assessed,” commented Clair Doubleday, site leader at the lower school of the International School of Moscow. “We provide a really full educational experience through play at a young age. We start teaching reading and writing early at ISM and never underestimate pupil’s abilities.” Curriculums vary from school to school. At ISM, the Early Years Foundation Stage curriculum is followed for example.

Those expats who are working for large international companies may have been offered relocation counselling before they arrive, and may have already decided to find a flat near the independent school of their choice, in which case many of the problems mentioned in this article will have be solved before they arrive. The number of expats, however, in this fortunate position is not growing as fast as the middle of category of parents who want the very best for their children but are looking at other options.

Resources: http://www.childreninmoscow.ru/en/ http://www.englishdadinmoscow.com/ http://www.ec.mosedu.ru

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Community

IWC Interview by John Harrison

“To Unify but Not

Standardise,”

Izabella Zajączkowska

Interview with Izabella Zajączkowska, President of the IWC in Moscow, and Sonya Michon Floc’hay, IWC PR Chair Izabella, how did you become the President of the IWC?

Izabella

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Izabella. This is a long story! It is connected with my husband’s career. He started his diplomatic career here in Moscow 15 years ago as a councillor. At that time I was a teacher in the Polish school in Moscow. I did not have time for any international work then, my focus was on my family and my job. My husband’s second main work base was Kiev, and later on I became the director of the Polish school in the Polish embassy there. I was given the responsibility of organising a charity bazaar by the Polish embassy, which I did three times, and they were successful. After that I participated in organising a small charity group, and I discovered that this work was very interesting for me, despite the fact that the official language of the charity club was English. At the time I could communicate fluently in Russian or French, but I was a beginner in English; I never studied it at school.

When I joined my husband, who had been appointed ambassador in Bucharest four years ago, one of the events I organised was a presentation to the wives of other ambassadors of the work of an outstanding Polish woman of the 20th century. I also invited members of the steering committee of the IWC in Bucharest, and this was how my work and adventure with the IWC began. After this, I twice organised a charity bazaar, and continued to work in a charity group.

Community Two years ago this February when I came here, I did not have a full time job and had some spare time, so I joined a non-formal Polish club, which organised a breakfast meeting once a month. I also invited the wives of ambassadors and IWC members. After one year I was asked to become the President of the IWC. I knew

nothing about how to be a president, and the situation was not easy because our steering committee then had only four people with any experience, and only three other people. There were a lot of empty places. It is different now; all the places are full!

Please outline the IWC’s main activities.

Izabella. The main goal of our club is to promote friendship between women of different countries. It’s very important for us. The second goal is to raise money for charity. This is a challenge, after one year in the job I at least know what I want to do. My idea is to unify people, but also to stress identity. The first thing I did when I became president was to re-organise our general meetings. We started to hold meetings in embassies, in galleries, in museums, in hotels. Every general meeting has its theme, but beyond that it is important that we women get together, it is important to have the chance to exchange information and emotions. So, for example I organised a general meeting in the Polish embassy. To underline the identity of Poland, the main concert of the evening was a performance of Chopin’s music, but to underline the international nature of the evening, we also had a French composer.

It is wonderful to be able to help new arrivals in Moscow, people who have come to a new country, to a new city, to be with new people. We help them get to know Russian culture better. The ‘unify but not standardise’ idea is also very important in our work in the steering committee. It’s not easy to work only with women, particularly when they are from different countries, because everyone has her own vision of the club and culture, also of communication, of expressing emotions. I try to bring these women together, but always come back to the same general principal.

Sonia: This is something that Izabella has done extremely well. I have been working with the steering committee for one year. I remember when I arrived, that there although were many new members, nobody knew each other. It was not easy to see what the right role was for every person, but Izabella has done that and more.

Her appointment has been a great success for this club.

I’d like to add that the official reason why the club came into existence in 1978, was to facilitate the

organisation of activities. It was actually GlavUpDK, a branch of the Soviet Ministry of Foreign Affairs which aided the creation of the club. With Moscow being a major world capital where so many diplomats were posted, it was only right that this sort of club, which acted to support the embassies in the same way that similar organisations did abroad, should be allowed to

exist. We started getting involved in charity work much later, because at the time the official line was that there was no need for charity in the Soviet Union, because the government was taking care of all the needs of all the people. It was only in 1991 after the system completely changed, that charities were added to the club. Now we saw a way that we could give something back to Russia.

How do you choose the charities?

Izabella: We have two steering committees. One covers general issues such as what to spend money on; what to organise; what projects we should plan for and so on. The other committee is the charity committee.

This has a very stable group of members, specialists in the charity field. They are aware of what charities are doing what here. If a new charity wants to apply

Sonia

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Community for our help, they have to fill in an extensive form, and are visited by a three-person delegation to verify the application, and if we feel that donating money is appropriate we go ahead and back that charity. Once a year we have an audit. We have a very strict accountant.

She knows how to make all of us economise on everything and spend the money very effectively!

How do you find people to be on the steering committees?

Izabella: It works by word of mouth. I am approached by many people at almost every function that I attend – it is really fantastic – who ask if there is any way that they can help. I would also like to add that when I became the president, I didn’t know how much money we raised for charity. Ninety per cent of the money we collect is given to charity, and seventy per cent of this is given to charities which

help children, and the rest to charities which help the elderly and disabled people. Ten per cent goes on all the administrative expenses that we have to spend to hold our meetings and get people together, but this is very strictly controlled. We raise money thanks to our two main charity fund-raising activities which are the Charity Bazar and the Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball.

Please tell us more about the Bazar.

Izabella: The winter bazar is our main charity fundraising project which generates the most money for our charity events. It has become established and is well known; almost a brand in itself. It is a one-day event, held at the Slavyansky hotel. Last year we had over 4,000 visitors which included some members of the staff of more than 60 embassies. So it very important for me for example to maintain good contacts with the embassies.

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Sonia: One of the reasons why the event is such a success is because it is supported by so many embassies who contribute food and craft items which you simply cannot buy in Moscow most of the time.

Over the years it has become known that you have this amazing event just before Christmas where you can buy for very reasonable prices a huge variety of goods. Each national group invites members of their own community to attend. Most of the people who attend are the wives of expats. These are people who are generally established in their own way, and this is one reason why it is interesting for sponsors to be present at the event. They are able to advertise directly or indirectly. We have a master of ceremonies to make sure that the event runs smoothly. It runs from 9 or 10 in the morning through until 6pm in the evening and basically it is full all the time, because there is always one or other programme happening. We have music, dancing, a room for children etc.

Is the embassy ball event held every year?

Izabella: Yes, every year. The preparations start in June, in fact we recently sent out the first letters to the ambassadors.

In September we send out a letter to sponsors. I think the ball is important, it a way of saying thank you to everybody, but it is also a charity fund raising event in it’s own right. We want to invite more Russians, after all, we are in Russia. The ball consists of two parts. It’s a dinner, so this provides an opportunity for people who are not connected with the diplomatic world to meet various ambassadors over a meal. Secondly, it’s a ball.

I don’t think I will be telling any secrets if I say that we have already decided this year to do something special to mark the club’s 35th anniversary. We want to present different dances from around the world such as the Tango, Polka, Waltz, Samba and many others. To do this, we need the support of the embassies, but I think that everybody in the club feels that this is going to be something special, there is a sparkle in people’s eyes when we talk about the programme.

Business News

Starting

a business or opening

Pascal Leprou Appointed General Manager of the Hotel Nikol’skaya Kempinski Moscow

an office in Russia?

Virtual Reception

WORK Service, a market leader in the provision of merchandising and sales support , promotions and outsourced labour solutions has launched a new service from its call centre, Virtual Reception.

Work Service is offering clients a 24hr’s per day, 7 day’s per week reception coverage, taking client calls, recording out of hours calls , being there when you cannot be. The service can be multilingual and is managed on site at the Work Service head office.

The service can be of great use to those companies that cannot justify full time reception staff, start ups that need support before they establish their own office, holiday and sickness cover for receptionists and event receptions for one off events.

Work Service uses the latest call centre and virtual reception technology.

Work Service has been offering a wide range of Virtual Reception and call centre solutions for many years across Europe .

Work Service “People and Solutions”

CFO Club ‘ECM as a way of improving the efficiency of financial services’

BDO group of companies, supported

by Taxcom, held a meeting of CFO club to look into “Electronic document circulation as a way of improving the efficiency of financial services”. Those in attendance discussed the practical use of internal systems controlling electronic content and legally valid paperless documents exchange between companies.

Victoria Smirnova, chief accountant of the Boehringer Ingelheim company, described the project involving the automation of the processing of advance payment reports done with the participation of the BDO outsourcing division. Elena Pletneva, chief accountant of the HeadHunter company, presented a project involving legally valid electronic documents exchange between the company and clients of the hh.ru portal.

A seasoned hotelier and a newcomer to Kempinski, Pascal joins us with over 30 years experience in well-known hotels including the Hyatt and Meridien groups. Benefiting from pre-opening experience from his most recent posting as General Manager of Hotel Moevenpick Paris Neuilly, as well as a successful track record in Food & Beverage, Pascal brings the talent and skills required to manage this important recent addition to our hotel portfolio.

Pascal is a graduate of the Ecole Hôtelière de Paris. A native of France, Pascal is fluent in English, has some knowledge of German, in addition to his mother tongue.

Joining the Olympic Force with Awara Direct Search

AWARA Direct Search, the reputable international recruitment company with a local know-how, field-leader in Russia, Ukraine and all over the CIS has placed itself as a top recruiter in the Sochi Olympic region. Awara has won a large-scale recruitment project for major international hotel and restaurant chains in Sochi who are opening up this fall in preparation for the 2014 Winter Olympic Games. International clients reach out to Awara, because of their solid reputation in employing talented headhunters and recruiters who all have years of experience recruiting and headhunting across industries and business segments, and thanks to their extensive network of highly qualified candidates at all levels. In their recruitment efforts, they stay up-to-date with the most innovative strategies of attracting the best. They have acquired a leading position in social networks and various recruiting channels (second most followed LinkedIn page in Eastern Europe considering the HR industry).

In the past opening a company, an office or even a representation office in Moscow was an expensive and frustrating minefield of confusing legislation and local rules. And that’s before you even start thinking about Russian! How times have changed, there are now professional companies in Moscow that offer a ‘one-stop-shop’ for all your requirements at sensible prices.

If you are looking at bringing products or services, they will assist at every step without you even having to be here. They research the market and some even pre-arrange meetings for you to present you products directly to potential clients.

Moscow is fast becoming a much more civilised place for business, especially when you use professional advise.

Look for articles and advertisements in our pages.

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Business Insights

GLOBAL LAW AND INVESTMENT FORUM

Summer, Baltschug Kempinski, Moscow

T

he AWARA Group together with Hellevig Klein Usov Llc and Awara eduhouse brought together 300 lawyers and business people from around the world at the Baltschug Kempinski, Moscow in mid-June. The majority of participants were lawyers and investors, however there were a variety of other people present including Moscow-based CEOs and senior company personnel, many of whom stayed on for the AWARA Executive evening which was held on the first evening of the two day event.

Seminars were held throughout the two days, and covered a variety of themes from anti-corruption legislation in Russia, business and investment law in the Nordic and Baltic regions, to transfer pricing in a global context; to list only two of the eleven seminars. As with all events organised by the AWARA group, an open-minded stance was taken towards Russia, and revealing comparisons were made between the situation in Russia and that in other countries. Reporting in full the content of all the seminars would fill a book, however a short resume of those of interest to the author of this short article follows.

The seminar: ‘General Director (Executive) Powers and Liability in Russia’ was of particular interest to me as it reflected the way that Russia is moving forward to align itself to western European financial regulatory norms. Conducted

22

by Vladimir Kramer, AIG Russia, Elena Somov AIG, CISC, Russia, Leonid Zubarev, CMS Legal and Anton Kabakov, Hellevig Klein & Usov, the seminar addressed new responsibilities which are now

being placed directly on company directors’ shoulders as result of new legislation. Vladimir Kremer pointed out that directors are now liable for any claims made against their company, including those

Business Insights

Hanly Chen, Commercial Secretary of the Embassy of Singapore

of any shareholder owning more than 1% of the shares. Even the company which the director is directing can issue a claim against its director. Directors and officers are now responsible for ‘irresponsible’ behaviour of their companies on stock markets, and can be held personally responsible in case of bankruptcy. All of this places any director in Russia in a difficult situation as he is forced to serve two masters: the shareholders and the company. This dichotomy of interests is familiar to the situations faced by the majority of their western counterparts. At the present time, fines of up to R. I mln can be imposed, and prison sentences can, and are being handed out. Since 2005, Vladimir Kremer mentioned that there have been 22 judgements

against Russian directors of banks alone, holding them liable to pay R. 5.5 bln in damages. Over 1,000 directors and officers of Russian companies have been disqualified.

The good news is that Directors and Officers’ Insurance Packages are now available in Russia, as Elena Somov pointed out. She mentioned that directors’ liabilities are not yet anything like as great as in other countries such as Australia, but nevertheless, the risks are there, and anybody becoming a director of a Russian company would “if they are in their right mind” take out an insurance package, as western directors do.

Leonard Zubarev pointed out that during IPOs, under the law on securities, and the law on shareholding, responsibility is

placed primarily on those who sign the company prospectus, which is not as far as corresponding legislation goes in the UK, where anybody who is mentioned in the prospectus is liable. The liability for Russian directors in an IPO is now unlimited, and can include claims against loss of profit, which can be huge, and also difficult to prove.

Directors can be disqualified for providing misleading information, as they can be in the UK. Claims have to be made within three years in Russia, against 6 years in the UK and 6 months in Germany.

The seminar ‘How to Structure Russian Inbound and Outbound Business through the Asian Financial Hubs’ contained so much information that it would be possible to fill this whole magazine

23

Business Insights with transcripts. The session started off with a presentation on Indonesia

by His Excellency the Ambassador of the Republic of Indonesia.

Mikhail Kuritsyn, Executive Director of the Russian-Indonesian Business Council, pointed out the importance of Indonesia’s mineral wealth. Indonesia contains 23% of the world’s known bauxite, and there are vast reserves of nickel and other non-ferrous metals. Mikhail emphasised that despite its rich mineral wealth, Indonesia is trying to diversify, and this was reflected in its decision to leave OPEC, which is perhaps a lesson for Russia. Mikhail also pointed out that Indonesia has been much more effective in curbing corruption than Russia. Whilst much criticism aimed at previous president Suharto can be justified, Indonesia has benefitted from 30 years of economic growth. Above all, Mikhail emphasised, when understanding Indonesia, it is important to understand local difficulties.

Perhaps the most interesting part of this seminar was that given

by Hanly Chen, the Commercial Secretary of the Embassy of Singapore. She gave a factual yet fascinating description of the economic advantages of being based in Singapore which is “much more than just being a country of ‘lemons, bananas and tea’ as the Russian song goes.” Hanly listed the key advantages of basing one’s business in Singapore, which included Singapore’s present importance as a banking centre, with most international banks already there. “Libor rates are actually lower over the long term in Singapore than in many European

24

countries,” she said. Singapore

there is a certain amount of racial

is the fourth most active foreign exchange market in the world, she said, and added that the Singapore stock exchange differs from London, New York and Hong Kong stock exchanges in that they depend to a large extent on local companies, meaning that there are little differences in terms of preferential treatment for foreign companies and Singapore companies.

In reply to a question from the audience on the sometimes negative attitude of Singaporeans to investing in Russia, Hanly gave an honest reply: “I think language is one very valid problem, but not the only reason.

For Singaporeans who come here, like me for example; I came on my first business trip in March 2008. I remember it well, it was one of the coldest days in my whole life. If you compare Japan to Russia, Japan tries to adopt a very foreignerfriendly approach, the signs are all translated into English for example.

But even applying and getting a visa to come here can be very difficult for Singaporean business people.

In a country where there is a lot of sunshine and smiling faces, to go into the Russian embassy where one sometimes feels not exactly comfortable, is rather scary. Then we come to Russia and find that we can’t even find the English word for toilet, and we are aware that

discrimination against Asians in Russia. We try not to recognise this, but we kind of suspect there is. I think it is very challenging for Singaporean businesses when they come here.

Singapore is in the middle of an area of rapid growth, and there are a lot of very promising opportunities close at hand. So Singaporean business people think twice about going to a country where they are perhaps not very welcome, where the weather is scary, and the food is, well, not familiar. On the other hand, we have been successfully organising the Russian Singapore Business Forum for eight years now. Two hundred people attended in the first year, the second year we had double, this year we will have seven or eight hundred delegates, about half of who are from Russia and the rest from Singapore and other Asian countries. There are many challenges for us to overcome, such as seemingly simple things like translation of documents. But that does not mean we are not interested.

In the evening, AWARA group organised its successful regular Executive Business Evening to which 200 people came. Despite Jon Hellevig’s comment that there were too many lawyers there (joke), the food, drinks, musical accompaniment and great networking meant that delegates were there until late evening.

Business Clubs/Associations

German Business Club Summer Meeting at the Lev Tolstoy House in Moscow www.wirtschaftsclubrussland.com

25

Business Clubs/Associations

26

Business Clubs/Associations

Ju

lia

Po p

ov a

Community

One,

two,

three, H eight…

Come together!

Let’s

dance Ceilidh!

28

ave you ever done the Scottish Ceilidh dancing? If the answer is no, do it immediately! You won’t regret it.

After meeting with Wanda Hyde the main organizer of the Moscow Ceilidh dance club and attending her lively class I can say that you won’t have any doubts that this is something you should do.

The group operates within the International Women’s Club (IWC).

Wanda Hyde is from England and has been dancing almost all her

life. She is not a professional but any dance teacher would be proud of Wanda’s boundless enthusiasm and energy. “I believe that if you really are passionate about something, that you can pass that enthusiasm on; because you can explain just how good it is. That is why I have a lot of women coming to take part,” Wanda says. She does a lot of her recruitment at the British Women’s Club (BWC) coffee mornings, and that’s how I met Wanda. I was extremely happy to be invited and did Ceilidh dancing for the first time in my life.

Community The classes have been held twice a week on Monday morning and Wednesday afternoon since October 2012. Sergey Alferow the dance teacher and choreographer of Moscow Scottish dance School got acquainted with Wanda in the summer 2012 at a Russian-British Chamber of Commerce meeting. At that time he was looking for an English-speaking group to teach when Wanda was searching for an English-speaking class to attend. So they decided to organize the Ceilidh dancing group within the IWC. Beside the Ceilidh classes, together with the help of BWC they arrange dance evenings with the men coming over to have fun. The next one is going to be on the 12th of October 2013 at the Marriot Courtyard Hotel.

Please do not mix Scottish country dancing with Scottish Ceilidh dancing. They are totally different. “You don’t need to have prior dancing experience to be able to do Ceilidh dancing. Scottish country dancing is a more formal and sophisticated form of Scottish social dancing. It requires a lot of practice to do really well. Ceilidh dancing is basically just for parties.

Scottish people normally dance this at weddings,” says Sergey. Wanda has been to Scotland on many occasions and did Ceilidh dancing there. When she came back from Scotland to South Wales she wanted to continue dancing and joined the Scottish country dancing group. “When I first went to the class and heard ‘Oh, no, do not put your hands like this!’ I was not sure that this was what I wanted. I’d been used to doing Ceilidh dancing which is more informal. Ceilidh dancing is about socializing and enjoying oneself” Wanda says.

+7

In Moscow, ladies from many countries support Wanda’s ideas about Ceilidh dancing. This Monday before the lesson in a sizeable dance studio with large mirrors on Arbatskaay street I got acquainted with Stefanie Geisler from Germany, Beth Akers from America, , Janet Chesterman from Australia, Tuija Murphy from Finland and Sue Lawrence from England.

Janet said she has been living in Moscow for 2 months. She is not a strong dancer. But after her first class on Monday, she said she is going to join the classes. “Why not go once a week, enjoy and meet new people?” she said.

It was Wanda who introduced Scottish Ceilidh dancing to Tuija.

“I go regularly on Wednesday whenever I can. It is a lovely group of people. It is a little bit of exercise, and a lot of fun. It helps you to bind with other expats,” Tuija explained.

Stefanie from Germany also didn’t know what Ceilidh dancing was like, and first found out about it from the IWC calendar.

92 5

134 540 5

v lfero A y e Serg

Group meets every Monday at 11.15 and every Wednesday at 14.30 Venue: New Dance Flight Studio, 3 Arbat, within 5 minutes walk from metro station ‘Arbatskaya’.

Group leader – Wanda Hyde

k o.u c . oo h wanda a y @ e dhyd

She has been coming to classes since September. “I really enjoy it,” she said. “It is challenging for me because I like dancing. I did jazz dancing before, but this is something you really need to get organized in your head. You need to count a lot, to know where your left and the right feet are. You have to listen carefully to do what the teacher wants. You have to focus on special things. I learn more and more and it becomes easier and easier. I have got the feeling for this kind of dance. That is why I am here,” Stefanie confesses.

I can’t but agree with Stefanie.

This kind of dancing is a little bit challenging for me too. It is curiously difficult to remember the sequence of movements for the beginner: where to form a

group of people, when to join up in a circle, how to circle around to the left for 8 steps and back to the right, where to have the middle person face the person on her right, when to advance toward each other and again to repeat the dance with a new group of people. But nobody looked down at me for my mistakes. Sergey tried to explain and corrected me.

I felt quite comfortable. I liked the atmosphere. It was a nice journey, and we ended up at lunch in the nearest café accompanied by my new dancer friends. I left the ladies full of inspiration and emotions.

And I wish I would always start my day like this!

Make new friends, keep fit, and have a great time enjoying Scottish Ceilidh dancing!

29

Embassy

“We appreciate the fact that Russians consider Indonesia to be a beautiful country, but at the same time we would like them to come and do business with us.�

Interview by John Harrison Ambassador, how long have you been working in Russia?

I have been working in Russian for 15 months now. I presented my credentials in February 2012, then I returned to Jakarta for two weeks when I met with our president and members of the cabinet, and I then started work here in March of last year.

Have you been to Russian before?

Only once, for two short days back in 2010, when I represented the ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) organisation at a conference in Moscow.

What is your perception of Russia and Russians now that you have been working here for over a year?

My perception is interesting. Let me give you some background. As a country we used to enjoy very good relations with the Soviet Union back in the 1950s and 1960s. Our president visited here a couple of times and we had thousands of students here. Due to the international geo-political situation in the late 1960s early 1970s, relation were not as close as earlier. We re-established links after the break up of the Soviet Union, and in 2003 Indonesia entered

30

Djauhari Oratmangun Ambassador, Republic of Indonesia a comprehensive partnership with Russia based on political security, economic development and social culture. Based on this partnership we have re-engaged with Russia, and enjoyed a very prosperous relationship with this country.

For me, I hardly knew anything about Russia before I came here. When I got here I was quite surprised to find out just how beautiful Moscow and other cities are. I have been travelling quite a lot, I have been to Vladivostok 6 times, to Ufa, to Novosibirsk, to Irkutsk and of course to St. Petersburg. I have been to many places. It’s a huge country, a multi-cultured and multi-religious society, right now I am very impressed with Russia.

How many Indonesians are there in Russia?

Not that many, fewer than 500 including students I think. There are about 30 students now. There are some expats, most of them came here back in the 1950s and 1960s as students and stayed.

What kind of businesses are Indonesians involved with?

Indonesia is a part of ASEAN, and we are concentrating now on trade, investment and then social culture. Last year our trade reached $3.5bn, up from $2.5bn the year before. This is a substantial increase, but compared to our strategies within our comprehensive partnership, we have not reached our potential yet.

Is that mostly Russian goods going to Indonesia or the other way round?

There is a surplus for Russia. Hopefully soon we will reach a balance. That’s my task here, to promote Indonesian goods in Russia. We have recently bought a lot Sukhoi commercial super jets, and the Russians are interested in Indonesian raw materials, furniture, clothing, palm oil and other goods.

Most Russians I know associate Indonesia with tourism, and not much else. Does Indonesia have an image problem, and how can that be changed?

The image problem works two ways, it’s not just misconceptions that Russians have about Indonesia, we are also talking about misconceptions that Indonesians have about Russia. That’s the treason I am engaged in a lot of promotional activities here. I am attending events organised by private Russian businessmen who want to do business in Indonesia, as well as encouraging Indonesians to come to Russia. But the first thing is to change preconceptions.

Of course we appreciate the fact that Russians consider Indonesia to be a beautiful country, but at the same time we would like them to come and do business with us. The geographical distance plays a big role, people in Eastern Russian feel that they are a long way away from us, but in fact they are closer than they are to Western Europe. For Indonesians as well, they sometimes feel that to come to Moscow is to come to the end of the world.

But isn’t it rather a long way to fly from Jakarta to Vladivostok for example, you have to go through Moscow?

In fact you can fly via Seoul. This is why I did a promotional event in Vladivostok recently where I told people that to fly from Vladivostok to Indonesia you take a one and a half hour flight from Vladivostok to Seoul and then another short flight to Indonesia. People were surprised.

There are a lot of Russian businessmen coming to Indonesia now. Here we have the Indonesia-Russia Business Council. Only last week, the owner of Russal went to Jakarta, last month a high level delegation from Russian Railways visited, just two months ago a group of Indonesian business men came here, last December 70 Russian businessmen went to Indonesia. This is the sort of thing that we are promoting.

Is ASEAN a purely trade organisation or is it similar to the EU and also have political powers?

To answer your question I have to briefly tell you the history of ASEAN. We established ASEAN in August 1967, the original initiative was put forward by the former foreign minister of Indonesia, he used to be the Ambassador here from 1964-67 and then he became our foreign minister and established ASEAN with 5 member countries: Thailand,

31

Embassy Malaysia, Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore. At that time, some of these countries were in conflict with each other.

The original idea was to establish a peaceful and stable region, because we realised that nobody will be interested in our region if we don’t. So at the time, the main goal was to prevent conflict and to maintain peace and security. From then on, a lot of investors came, and we were considered to be a new ‘tiger’. For 44 years there has been no open conflict in the region. Then we enlarged the membership to cover all of the South East Asian nations; to include Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Brunei and recently Myanmar. So what started out as a group of countries who simply wanted to avoid conflict has now adopted a different mission, to unite together by 2015 in three common communities: a political and security community, an common economic community, and a common social cultural community. We have learned many lessons from the European Union. For example, single production whereby production is unified throughout the region for certain goods. Each country specialises in particular services and can compliment each other. The headquarters of ASEAN is in Jakarta. So now, all foreign ambassadors in Jakarta also become ambassadors to ASEAN. Every year leaders of ASEAN meet, where issues are discussed and resolved. They have become summits amongst friends. Alongside of ASEAN we have another organisation called ASEAN plus three which is the ASEAN countries plus our main trade partners: China, Japan and South Korea. Also in 2005, we established the East Asia summit as a platform where ASIEAN leaders plus three, plus Australia, India and New Zealand can meet together.

Russia and the USA have recently joined.

During the 2008-2009 crisis, we were one of only three counties – China, Indonesia and India – which were able to

32

maintain positive economic growth. The economic bounce back in the region was very fast. Within a year after the crisis, Singapore notched up a 15% growth rate, Thailand was soon up to 5%. The Philippines economy is now moving forward as well. These are the things that I have tried to explain to the Russian community, in particular I point out the unique role of Indonesia a centre and gateway for the ASEAN countries.

Russian and Indonesia culture seem to be pretty far apart. Is there any one aspect of Russian culture that you, as an Indonesian like and can identify with?

I love traditional Russian culture, I like many of the traditional folk songs and traditional dance routines, and the upbeat nature of modern Russian pop culture is similar to what is happening in Indonesia. Of course I have been to the Bolshoi three or four times, my wife loves that. But my personal interest is more in the area of traditional culture.

Every time that I am away from Moscow, I try to enjoy the traditional culture of that region. I do think that on this deep level of traditional culture, Russia and Indonesia share some common points. The other thing is inter-faith dialogue. I have met a lot of religious leaders here in Russia, and I am aware that there are a lot of things that we can learn from each other.

What does your family think of Moscow?

My wife loves Russia and this city. She is a photographer; every time I go anywhere she follows me, takes a picture and puts it on facebook. My three children; one is working in Jakarta, the second is a postgrad in the Netherlands, the third is in a college in Indonesia, have all been to visit me here. t. Petersburg.

Business

Complementing the Big 4

By Jonathan Tubb Director of “Bellerage” (Outsourcing. Consulting. Audit.)

After nearly 15 years of working in the Big 4 as a CFO and Senior Partner in Russia and the CIS and leaving the industry in 2009 I was extremely fortunate to become a member of the Board of Directors of Group Bank Zenit one of the largest forward thinking private banks in Russia where I still work today as the Chairman of the Audit Committee.

2 years ago I was introduced to the Managing Partner of a 2nd tier predominately Financial Outsourcing Company “Bellerage” (Alexander Bykov).

And after a number of meetings and a desire to share what I had learned from the Big 4 I was invited to join the organization as a member of the Board.

What I found in this firm was an energetic group of young professionals that had pretty much market ready solutions and the desire to provide a deliverables of a high quality, professionalism, client service, solid IT infrastructure and all at a market rate commensurate with the size of the operation and in line with its fixed overheads. Our price for quality in the tier 2 market when you look closely at the technological software and infrastructure that we have invested would be hard to beat.

The Financial Outsourcing market is geared towards startups and SME’s but also the larger more established organizations that are looking for certain efficiencies to improve their KPI’s. What I still find very interesting in the market is that although there are a large number of service providers there are possibly only 15 serious players that make up the 1st 2nd tiers in Russia today and their clients are predominantly International and in our case around 80% of our client base. This is where I believe the REAL opportunity lies for all providers to make a bolder move and that is in the domestic market. Each company has its niche relations and core competencies and when you couple all of these firms together the potential service capability to a relatively untapped market (The Domestic Clients) I believe is formidable and it is only a matter of time that good business acumen will prevail.

We are perceived by our clients as complimentary to the Big 4 and have etched out our own identity in the 2nd tier marketplace, our company slogan being “Complex Business-Support Solutions” where we continue to strive for excellence.

Business Clubs/Assiciations How long have you been chairman of the board?

I took over at the beginning of this year together with the newly elected board. All board members are Danes, and there are five of us, plus we have a secretary.

How many members are there, are they mostly Danish?

We have both corporate members and private members, altogether we have between 100 and 200

The

MeL met Kasper Ditlevsen, the chairman of the Danish Business Club in Moscow.

Daytime job: Commercial Director, Uhrenholt Russia & CIS

Danish

Business Club

in Moscow

How long has the Danish Business Club been operating for?

The club originated from a trade counsel, established by the Danish embassy back around 1983. However the club was only formally established via a statutory general assembly around 1997. This was the formal beginning of a democratic business club, with an elected chairman, board and bylaws. Every second year we change the board, which causes a lot of rotation and in some cases challenges in terms of consistency, but it does create a lot of new input to the club. This year we are putting a lot of effort into making the club more focused on business rather than social events. Obviously this takes a lot of effort and time, especially from members of the board.

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active members, almost all of whom are based in or doing business in Moscow, which is really our stronghold in Russia. About 80% of our subscribing members are Danish, but that doesn’t mean that 80% of all participants at all events are Danish. Lego, Danfoss, Novo Nordisk, Arla or other major corporate members, might might have an organisation of hundreds of Russians who could attend an event in which they are taking part so obviously there are a lot of Russian attendees as well.

What kind of events do you organise?

Firstly, we hold social events, such as the Stambord at the Restaurant Skandinavia once a month. Stambord is Danish for a table that always stays the same, and the event is always held at the same time of the month that

Business Clubs/Assiciations we meet up, basically 7pm on the last Thursday of each month. People have the chance to come in and network, and meet others. It is particularly useful for newcomers, who can then write an email to a board member who will arrange an introduction to like-minded people who it might be useful for them to meet. At the same time, it’s a very good chance to catch up with what other members are doing.

Do you organise educational seminars and lectures?

We are introducing theme-based events this year.

The theme could be cultural; for example this year we had a famous Danish jazz singer visiting us. The cultural department of the Danish embassy initiated that event. We are trying to bring in more and more business-like content, and we have been quite successful with this. First of all, we do some company visits, which are joint-visits to membercompanies here in Russia. For instance, we went to Lego, they explained the whole story of their development throughout the last decade, from the starting point, when they entered Russia, and how they have been growing their business and developing in the regions. We also organise meetings with market experts, for example we have an upcoming event with Chris Weafer, former Troika Dialogue, Sberbank. We host events, like the upcoming

event on how companies that are already experiencing pretty good growth can get finance for their business.

Not being the largest business association in Russia, we are affiliated with other associations. For example, we have a representative from Denmark in the AEB, he briefs us and also the Danish Ambassador to Russia about the content of AEB meetings. Having representatives in other organisations makes it easier for members, in that they don’t have to be members of all the different associations and clubs. If we have some really important, breaking news, we share it with everybody by email. That is why we have a special website which is accessible to all subscribing members. We have a group on Linkedin and it is shared across all types of media.

Which language do you use?

Our operating language is English, because we all speak that, and because one of our aims is to attract Russian staff working for Danish companies, generating a good foundation for mutual business opportunities.

What is your relationship with your embassy?

They are a huge help to us. We use their facilities a lot, but there is a limit to how much the embassy can help all Danish companies coming to Russia and also those that are

Business Clubs/Assiciations

here already. Sometimes we are not able to hold the bigger events at the Danish embassy and have to find alternative locations suitable. We would like to see ourselves as being an independent business club, but very tightly linked with the embassy, trying to support our corporate and private members in the way the embassy can’t.

How do you stop the Club becoming a social organisation?

We are a business club, so the balance should lean more to the business than the social. Having said that, both Russians and Danes like to do business with people who are likeminded and with whom they have socialised with. So what we do is to be very clear when we send out our invitations as to exactly whether an event is business or social. We attach the agenda to the invitations, so there can be no doubt as to what the event is about. We are experiencing that because we have managed to create successful business events, our social events are getting more serious.

Can anyone join the Club?

Like any club, we have bylaws. The most important thing for anybody who wants to join, whether on an individual or corporate basis, is that the applicant has to have an association with Denmark. This doesn’t just mean that the person has seen the little mermaid back in Copenhagen. We are talking about Danish citizens living in Moscow or doing business in Moscow. We are not looking at passports, but you have to have a very close association with Denmark. Corporate applicants have to be Danish companies. If they are registered in an intermediary zone, that’s OK, but they have to be primarily Danish.

So you turn some people down?

Yes, on a regular basis, and this is to preserve the quality of the club. Obviously getting access to such a club could be quite useful for many companies who want to sell their services to members. We are very strict when it comes to certain companies or individuals wanting to invite or present something to our members.

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Danish Business Club Moscow http://www.dbcmoscow.camp9.org LinkedIn: http://www.linkedin.com/ groups?gid=3357530&trk=myg_ugrp_ovr

Is your income from subscriptions or from sponsorship, do you have any money over for charity?

We have a tiny subscription fee, which keeps us going with our administrative costs. But then we have some very loyal sponsors, and the list is growing, because of the very strong initiatives shown by board members in this direction. We have two main events during the year. One of them is our mid-summer event, which is a big tradition in Denmark, which we have held since 1993. It’s a wonderful chance to get together, because it’s just before people are leaving on holiday.

The second big event is a Christmas farewell for the year.

This is more formal and usually it is held in the residence of the Danish ambassador.

Unfortunately we don’t have enough money left over for charity. The money we have is the members’ money. We could bring forward a suggestion to donate to a certain charity, but it would have to be done at our general assembly, according to our bylaws and so on.

What we do practice is that members who are part of charitable organisations, and able to pass on invitations to our members to participate in their events or make donations to causes that they support.

Business

The Luxury Network Joumber Saamov

What is the basic idea behind The Luxury Network, how was it created?

I will have to go back about seven years ago now when Andrew Lloyd and Kevin Rose got together and summarised their experience in the field of cross-marketing. They had both been dealing with highend brands in various fields of luxury goods and services, and were active in helping clients develop loyalty programs and client relations.

So basically they put together a cross-marketing agency which they called The Luxury Network. We are the franchisee for Russia. We deal with foreign companies who are

Mel met Joumber Saamov, managing partner of The Luxury Network in Russia, an organisation that is growing in importance amongst top brands here in Russia. Joumber explained how this quiet but influential club works. represented here, or with Russian companies who are of sufficient quality, whether they be providers of goods or services.

The number of our members is not as important as their quality. We now have a dozen solid members.

Our founding member was Rolls Royce Motors Cars Moscow, which set the tune because we aim to acquire as members the Rolls Royce of companies in different niches, such as Masterskaya Classicheskovo Kostiuma (bespoke tailors), Royal Wellness Club in fitness and wellness, Avrora Clinic in dentistry, Alexander Metlin in furs and Novoye Kachestvo (“New Quality�) in real estate. We bring representatives

The number of our members is not as important as their quality of these companies together to co-brand and cross-market, we seek out upper-crust marketing opportunities for them. We work with owners of companies, with GMs or even marketing managers, with people who are clearly interested in making their businesses grow.

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Business What sort of events do you organise and why?

The one event that I should like to refer to first is our Annual Luxury Network Russia event. This is an occasion when all members come together to display their goods and services, it’s a gala evening where

everyone can bring their clients.

Obviously other members of the network are there so participants can make new client contacts. The gala coming up later this year will be our biggest yet, and we are looking at the possibility of bringing about 200 high net worth individuals together to be entertained, and to see members’ products and services in whatever way members will display them.

We are now putting together a string of smaller events which will be held in members’ premises.

A representative of that company will deliver a speech or a lecture on a topic relevant to the company’s trade, and about 20 to 30 members will attend. This is a good number, because keeping it small means that the host will have enough time to meet and talk to the people he or she wants to, to create contacts.

What is happening in the luxury sector in Russia?

The luxury sector is Russia is going through quite a transition. We have had three or maybe five consortiums

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which have become the key players on the luxury market here. They’ve accumulated quite impressive portfolios of luxury brands, which are at times put into the shade by the façade of the owning company. Many brands now seek independence in their marketing policy. Some of them are opening their own flagship stores, hiring managers that will run their marketing policy here. So the luxury network is something really instrumental for the likes of those companies.

The only sector of luxury goods that has shown consistent growth over the past two to three years is the automobile industry. Since the crisis of 2008-10, wealthy Russians have really cut their expenses on luxury goods and services. The travel industry has suffered quite badly, along with a few others. We see quite a slow down in luxury for example, that having to do with the cuts in new housing acquisition and new homes. It is wrong to think that Russia has been completely immune from the economic malaise that has hit other countries. But somehow the automobile industry has been doing well.

It is wrong to think that Russia has been completely immune from the economic malaise that has hit other countries.

But somehow the automobile industry has been doing well

Business What services do you offer your Russian members?

We offer a whole marketing mix, with the joint events and the member events. The events are quite significant, because each of our current twelve members holds a minimum of two events a year, add that up with a couple of Luxury Network events and you are looking at 26 events a year. All of these events can be used for product placement and networking with potential new contacts and clients. We have a luxury network brochure, which brings all members together in a two page spread, and the distribution is a die-for for companies catering for high net worth individuals here; because it is distributed at points of sale, or points of client contact of each member. So take, for example, the Royal Wellness Club, they will have the brochures at their reception and by their bar. It is also distributed as a quarterly supplement to a monthly magazine called Top Flight, which is published by one of our members called Business Aviation Club, with a circulation of 25,000 copies. The

International brands can most certainly enjoy our events and take the opportunity of product placement magazine is distributed on board business jets, and a Luxury Network advertisement is featured in every issue of Top Flight. This is where brand alignment starts working for all our members.

What services can you offer international luxury brands looking to introduce and sell their products in Russia?

We can certainly give them quality exposure within the right circles. Having brought together a dozen member companies, we are

now talking to about 10,000 clients.

Our newsletter goes out to at least that number of people, and these are all high net worth individuals.

International brands can most certainly enjoy our events and take the opportunity of product placement. They can place their products and talk about their services at the small scale events that we shall start running from September, and that will be at least an event a member, so the schedule will be quite busy. We can have some of their products featured at members’ points of sales. An example here would be Kazumian cognac being seen and actually offered to other member clients.

When people buy themselves a new Rolls Royce for example, among other presents, they receive a bottle of Premium Kazumian cognac.

We provide a direct marketing inroad for a minimum cost. We are the shortest way to your Russian high net worth client. You don’t have to spend hundreds of thousands of Euros in advertising to achieve what you can by becoming a member of the Luxury Network Russia. It’s quite a money saver.

Charity Leaders

OVERCOMING

(ПРЕОДОЛЕНИЕ)

rworth Angela Peppe

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There is a place of magic in Novogoreevo. What looks like at first sight a normal riding school is in fact a place where children with severe motor skills disorders such as autism and down syndrome receive help which helps them do what they most need to do: connect with the world around them. Visiting there is a truly moving experience.

This charity, which has been helping children for 20 years, uses horses as part of its therapy.

Artem Ivanov, who is in charge of physiotherapy at the centre, and semi-paralyzed himself from the waist down, explains: “To control the movements of a horse as it moves means that the rider has to be able to control all the main muscle groups in his [the rider’s] legs, as well as his hands. This creates a training base for riders with any kind of movement problems. A horse’s temperature is two degrees warmer than ours, and because of this, the rider’s muscles warm up and relax.

All this has a tremendously positive effect on the rider’s coordination and balance. I myself discovered this treatment and without it I wouldn’t have been able to enter university and integrate with the world. Not everything in our country is designed for people in wheelchairs!

“Children with autism need to establish contact with the outside

Charity Leaders world, and the horse becomes the link.

You don’t need to speak to be able to make contact with a horse, which suits children with autism, but he or she must be able to correctly move his legs and arms. The horse doesn’t move unless the rider gives the corrects sequence of commands with his legs and hands, and learning these is really useful for any child with motor skills disorders.

“The horses have a kind of calming therapeutic effect, for example, children so want to communicate with the horse that they try to make words come out of their mouths even if previously they have never spoken.

We have seen cases where the work ‘walk’ was the first thing that an autistic child ever uttered. Then slowly their speech, sensitivity, and intellect improves. The horses speed up the process of integration of the autistic child with other human beings.

“Severely autistic children may have difficulty in determining where their right or left leg is, how tall they are, where their eyes are. But they can see that in comparison with a horse, he is she is small, and in comparison

with Vanya, he or she is big. If the rider moves one of his legs, the horse makes one movement, if he moves another, the horse makes a different movement.

The physiotherapy is joyful, and is full of positive emotions. The mother is happy to watch her child riding. None of the children are aware that they are being cured, that they are fighting with their illness, they are too busy! In other cases like with me, they are learning how to control a horse so that they can take part in competitions with other disabled children.”

Artem’s mother, Lidia Ivanova who manages the centre added: “All the horses are trained in a special way, and the instructors have to receive special training. There is a lot involved in running this operation even though we only have six horses, which means that the centre is quite expensive to run. For example, we form groups of five or six children, no more, and there has to be two or three absolutely normal children in each group, because if one heavily autistic child starts to behave in a certain way, a different child, also with autistic problems will start to do the same thing. One will begin to shout, another will bite, a third will shake his or head around, and so on.

Nevertheless, Preodolenie has been operating successfully for 20 years now, and I can say that the positive results on all the children that have come through here has been remarkable. We are tremendously grateful to the Irish Business Club and other organisations for the support they have given us. We cannot survive on government grants alone. Your help literally means that we know that we will be able to buy feed for the horses and pay essential staff.

This year we have been able to buy a special carriage for those children who are so ill that they cannot sit on a horse, but nevertheless benefit from communicating with them. It also means that we can charge less for lessons, this is important because many families are not very well off. We may even be able to afford this year to hire somebody to help with the lifting work involved with putting children on horses and taking them off again.

To help Preodolenie, contact Hugh Mc Enaney, Secretary of the Irish Business Club via http://www.moscowirishclub.ru/ , or Preodelenie direct.

Preodolenie 111396, г. Москва, Союзный проспект, д. 4, под. 8 Telephone: +7 (495) 301-61-50, +7 (495) 301-05-77 President: Lidia Ivanova Leader of Physiotherapy department: Artem Ivanov Email: info@preodolenie-l.ru http://www.preodolenie-l.ru

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Charity

This summer the first and the only charity shop in Moscow ‘Lavka Radostei’ is celebrating its first birthday. To find out how successful the Russian project in Moscow is, Moscow expat Life visited Ekaterina Milova, the executive director of the non-profit charity foundation ‘Fse Vmestye’ and one of the founders of ‘Lavka Radostei,’ which is a charity shop.

Ekaterina, you only have to walk down a high street in towns in the USA, Australia, Canada, and Europe to see that charity shops are part of the cultural fabric of many countries around the world. How did it happen in Moscow?

It was Ekaterina Bermund, the director of the charitable foundation ‘Children’s Hearts’ who inspired everybody with the idea of opening the first charity shop in Moscow after her return from Britain.

Having seen many such shops in London which raise money for charity, Katya thought: why not Moscow?

Do you pay taxes?

“We posted an urgent appeal for help on facebook and got a reply back from Svetlana Pchelnikova the director of a puppet-show workshop on Vetoshny Lane. She gave us a room of 20 meters to use. That is how we started. But that room quickly proved too small for us. After half a year we had to move on. The Moscow City Government allocated us a room on Prospect Mir, which we use as a warehouse.

Right now we do not have premises of our own which we can use as a shop, but we do have a kind of warehouse where we keep things. But our team works at various charity fairs once every week or so.

Premises for a shop have been promised

“We do not pay taxes, because we don’t have prices. Everything is donated. This means that a customer can take out anything he likes and pay as much as he or she considers it should cost. Sometimes I wished we had prices. It is not fair when a person goes away with two big bags full of clothes and leaves 100 rubles for everything. We ask people to be righteous and donate 20-30% of the cost of the thing.

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by the Moscow Government but paper work has yet to be formalized.”

“All the money we get is given to the non-profit organization ‘Fse Vmeste.’ Then we decide where to direct funds. With the help of our charity shop we try to cover administration costs of the charitable foundation, because it is not easy to find enough money to pay our staff.

Charity What are the Ups and Downs of the charity shop?

“I think that main difficulty has been with finding the shop itself. I personally didn’t expect us to be so successful so quickly, even without permanent premises. It has become so well known. We have managed to create a good brand that has a good name. I have to thank all of our volunteers for their fantastic work. They don’t just help us out with arranging and receiving goods, they also take an active part in charity festivals and fairs.

“From time to time people who don’t believe in charity come to us. Our shop makes it possible for people donating goods to see the excitement and happiness in the eyes of somebody else who is buying the thing they bring. Sometimes people in genuine need of help come to our stall at various events. Everybody is different. Despite all the pitfalls the atmosphere at ‘Lavka Radostei’ has an incredibly concentrated charge of love, kindness and dedication.

I can’t but agree that there is special atmosphere inside the charity shop. We met with Ekaterina at a big charity festival ‘Den Radosty’ at Vinzavod where ‘Lavka Radostei’ together with 20 charitable foundations and volunteer organizations belonging to ‘Fse Vmeste’. While we were talking, the last preparations were being made. Someone was arranging cosmetics goods. Another was arranging clothes. I managed to get

acquainted with the ‘Lavka Radostei’ team.

I met Kseniay Anopko from the Charitable Foundation ‘Galchonok’ who was putting out some hand-made toys made by mentally disabled children. I also met Elena Smirnova from the Charitable Foundation ‘Sozdanie’ who donated some nice looking children’s clothes which had in turn being donated by a Russian clothes manufacturer.

Just near the ‘Lavka Radostei’ stall, the Charitable Foundation ‘Galchonock’ had organized the ‘Hollywood Zone’ with a car from the famous Russian movie ‘Lightning’.

There was a real family holiday atmosphere, with a lot of activities. There were many workshops and showrooms. Food and drink was free. Clowns played with children. I was sorry to leave this place of kindness and smiles, and hope to come back next year.

You can always join ‘Lavka Radostei’ and work as a volunteer on such fairs or inside the shop.

If you want to be a volunteer of ‘Lavka Radostei’ you will need to speak some Russian.

To become a volunteer or donate goods, please phone +7 495 5109728.

It would be appreciated if clothes are washed before being donated. Furniture should be in fairly good condition.

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Charity

Nastenka

T

he charitable foundation helping children with cancer ‘Nastenka’ was founded in 2002.

The main objective of the foundation is to increase the quality of diagnostics and treatment of children with oncological diseases, as well as to revive the tradition of charity in Russia. The foundation works in the Scientific Research Institute for Pediatric Oncology and Hematology of the largest Russian cancer center.

For 11 years, the foundation has helped thousands of sick children and purchased large number of expensive modern medical equipment for a hospital: two ventilators, an x-ray machine, a dialysis machine, blood separator and much more.

‘Nastenka’ is one of the oldest Russian charities; it started working in a difficult time for the country when the concept of ‘charity’ was perceived as something unfamiliar and even alien. During the Soviet regime, the rich tradition of philanthropy that existed in tsarist Russia was destroyed. Despite the poverty and devastation in orphanages and nursing homes, lack of basic needs in health care, it was declared that there were no people in need of assistance. It was a difficult time for the Scientific Research Institute for Pediatric Oncology too: a constant shortage of essential medicines, modern medical equipment and basic supplies, even disposable syringes, made the work of doctors ineffective.

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The start of the new post-Soviet era was difficult.

During that period, many funds were started, but could not overcome the difficulties of the initial stage and stopped their activities. This was due mainly to the fact that the administrators of charitable funds aspired to work and to help people, but they had no special education or experience in philanthropic work.

On the other hand, people in Russia were not ready to participate in charitable activities, and funds could not get enough donations to carry out their activities.

The fate of ‘Nastenka’ was better: in the first month of its existence, the foundation was able to purchase expensive medicines and modern catheters for the department of bone marrow transplantation. 11 years have passed, but even now the founder of ‘Nastenka’

Jamilya Aliyeva emphasizes with gratitude that it was foreign supporters who helped her to make the first crucial steps. Foreign experts working in Moscow were always actively involved in charity.

They not only became the first private benefactors, but also encouraged people in their companies to help Russian children with cancer. They shared their experience of charity work in their own countries and provided invaluable moral support. We are grateful to the many foreign companies, individuals, foreign volunteers for their comprehensive care: donations to our fund, organization of charity fairs, auctions, parties, concerts, provision of accommodation in five-star hotels for our children, free language lessons and so on. Different examples of assistance provided to us are endless.

Over the years, many of our foreign friends, representatives of different countries have finished their work in Moscow and left Russia, but they left a part of their hearts here. The Charitable Foundation ‘Nastenka’ sincerely hopes that the foreigners who live in Russia now may continue the good traditions and contribute to the rescue of Russian children with cancer.

Together with ‘Nastenka’ Charitable Foundation You can help Children with Cancer! +7 (495) 980-53-77, +7 (495) 585-41-01 www.nastenka.ru You can contact us by phone +7 (495) 980-53-77, +7 (495) 585-41-01, www.nastenka.ru Additional information can be obtained by calling +7 (495) 980-53-77, +7 (495) 585-41-01, www.nastenka.ru

Real Estate

Buying property

in Thailand

by Kim Waddoup

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Thailand is well established as a favourite tourism destination offering a wide range of different cities/resorts for all interest groups. Thailand is also now becoming a country of choice for many people purchasing property abroad both for living, retirement and for investment potential. The Land of Smiles has many plus points, offering a year round good climate, low cost of living, high quality and a broad choice of properties at sensible prices available throughout the Kingdom The principles of purchasing property in Thailand are indicated in the box, however as with all property purchase abroad due diligence must be carried out with professional assistance. Thailand offers a relatively safe investment with a, currently, stable government and with vast improvements due to the forthcoming ASEAN Economic Community in 2015.

The baht is at a reasonable exchange rate, prices are generally sensible and good rental returns can be generated.

Bangkok is developing fast with vast improvements to

infrastructure and standard of living. Luxury condominiums sell for less that a third of those in Hong Kong or Singapore, therefore an increasing numbers of professionals are moving in to the city most requiring rental properties, driving rentals higher despite increasing inventory. The quality of life is high with top class shopping, night-life, restaurants and facilities. Staff costs are also cheap enabling families to employ maids, nannies and drivers at low wages. Residential property in Bangkok is basically divided into either central apartment/ condominium accommodation in the central districts or town houses and villas located in the greener suburbs. The centre is experiencing a building boom with super condominium projects offering very high class living quality at a sensible investment level. Prices for central property are naturally higher with higher returns or lower in the suburbs whilst still offering good returns especially on the itinerant

Real Estate expat community. Bangkok has the advantage of offering a vibrant rental market producing good returns on investment.

Located just over one hour from Bangkok is Pattaya, whilst known as a vacation district for many tourists it is also a preferred second home location for many Bangkok/Asian residents. With a thriving tourism industry with more than 8 million annual arrivals, Pattaya can offer excellent returns on buy to let. The local government continues to invest in infrastructure to take away the rather sordid image replacing it as a family destination with immense shopping opportunities, entertainment facilities, attractions, excellent restaurants, beaches and a range of superb golf courses. The proposed rail link from Bangkok will greatly increase the values providing quicker transportation from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International airport.

Buying condos is the most popular option among foreigners therefore the condo market in Pattaya (especially in Jomtien Beach) has outperformed the more upmarket resort destinations of Phuket and Samui in recent years, as new project launches have achieved excellent sales results.

Developments surrounding Pattaya such as Jomtien, Sahathip, Pratumnak Hill and Mabrachan Lake are providing good opportunities.

Thailand’s largest island is Phuket offering a well-developed tourism infrastructure of white

sandy beaches, luxury hotels and golf courses. There is something for everyone on the island from the noise and bustle of Patong, the secluded beaches of the west coast and the luxury marina development on the east coast.

Some International flights do land in Phuket but most arrivals come from Bangkok, which is well served by low frills airlines such as Air Asia and Nok Air. There is an increasing demand for new developments in areas such as Bang Tao Beach, Surin, Cherng Talay and Layan, as well as the southern coastal areas of Nai Harn and Kata. The traditional areas, such as Patong, are overdeveloped and now priced at a premium Hua Hin is not so well known as its famous cousins but this has been the seaside choice of the Thai Royal Family since the 20’s. Located just a 2-3 hour drive from Bangkok there is also a regular rail service.

The centre of Hua Hin is slightly more sophisticated that its cousins though still offers all that one comes to expect from Thailand with a well developed tourism infrastructure, sandy beaches and superb golf courses. Whilst some condominium developments are available the majority of property in this region is individual villas with all year round rental potential.

Island Life in Thailand. For those looking for a more laid back Island lifestyle Thailand has a vast variety to offer. For this article we have concentrated on Koh Samui, Koh Chang and Koh Lanta.

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Real Estate Koh Samui is a tourism jewel but is still a little behind Phuket and Pattaya when it comes to property investment opportunities, but the friendly climate and relaxed lifestyle makes it a popular destination. This, in turn has sparked serious growth in the property sector over the last few years and Koh Samui is still a good value option for investors, especially when it comes to high-end properties. With tourism numbers increasing each year, the island today portrays a higher end image and attracts accordingly with high level developments offering either exclusive living or good return potential Koh Chang is located just a 2 hour drive and short ferry from Bangkok and has developed fast in the last 10 years. Whilst it has vowed to control developments to ensure that the current atmosphere and charm of the island remain. There are no high rises on the island but some larger projects are planned.

Developments are currently mostly on the popular West coast leaving the east coast relatively undiscovered.

My personal choice and ‘hot tip’ is the relatively undiscovered island of Koh Lanta. It’s a one hour flight from Bangkok followed by two ferries and this has meant that no mainstream or mass tourism has been developed on the island. There are several low rise resorts, vast sandy beaches and bars and restaurants of every taste. The atmosphere on the island is extremely ‘laid back’ yet offers a certain refinement of people appreciating what they have found and what they want to keep as a secret except to their friends. Prices are low, infrastructure is limited yet the island has high speed internet. There are no large developments allowed with most preferring to buy land and develop themselves. A laid back destination for stressed executives!

Inland: Property in Thailand is by no means limited to the coastal

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areas with inland destinations offering great facilities and investment opportunities.

Chiang Mai is Thailand’s second largest city. Recently the Chiang Mai skyline has changed quite significantly.

A 15 storey construction site now dominates the commercial area around the popular Night Bazaar on Chang Klan road and is the most ambitious of several new developments in the city centre. It is yet to become the ‘hot property spot’ that Phuket, Samui or Pattaya is, but it does claim to be one of the most liveable cities in Asia. Property is considerably cheaper than other major centres in Thailand as the market is far less dynamic. The local estate industry has grown very confident in recent years as this Northern Capital has prospered and produced an ever-increasing Thai middle class. The other major trend to affect property in Chiang Mai is the noticeable influx of foreigners choosing to settle in Chiang Mai. It is generally regarded as cheaper, less touristy and less congested than many other places in Thailand.

Retirement: Many foreigners are now taking advantage of Thailand’s “retirement visas” which are issued to foreigners aged 50 and older, even if they are still working in their home countries. Many houses and condos are bought as first homes or second homes for both leisure and retirement residences.

The author has travelled extensively in Thailand and has business interests in Bangkok.

Looking forward he has identified Thailand as an excellent retirement destination with lower prices yet high standards. With more than 10 years in the overseas property business he is well qualified to assist in locating excellent property and realistic prices in Thailand. The author can be contacted through the Publisher email address indicated at the beginning of the magazine.

Real Estate

Legalities Thai law stipulates that a foreigner may not own land in his name, he has the right of ownership only of the building. For a foreigner to purchase land to build a property there are 2 options.

1) The land is purchased on a 30-year leasehold, with an option to extend the lease for further 30 year periods. Possession of the land is assured by virtue of the fact that the property occupies the land. The lessor cannot therefore seize the property upon expiration of the lease, as the property is separate from the land.

2) If a foreigner operates a business in Thailand then it is possible to purchase the freehold of the land through the Limited Company. The land will be owned by the Company, not the individual.

House Purchase; An investor may own the building freehold and combined with a well constructed leasehold (typically a 30 year lease with two prepaid 30 year renewals) in addition to a purchase option for the land (that could be exercised in the event that the laws of foreign ownership change - or the property is sold to a Thai person or legal entity) effective ownership will be maintained, yet still remain within the laws of Thailand.

partnerships and other corporate entities.

Once formed they are referred to as ‘Juristic persons’ in Thai jargon (legal entities).

Juristic persons in Thailand owned by a Thai majority are considered in terms of property ownership, to be a Thai person and therefore may own property in Thailand. The most popular form of corporate land ownership is the Limited Liability Company (LLC).

while in certain condominium blocks a full 100 % of the units can be owned by foreigners on a freehold basis. An important requirement in order to qualify for freehold status is to ensure that the foreign currency funds for the purchase have been remitted from abroad and correctly recorded as such by a Thai bank. The foreign freehold is the preferred structure for purchase of a condominium or apartment.

Control of the Limited Liability Company;

Land Title Search;

Thai law allows the issuing of classified or two tiered stocks. Hence shares of the LLC may be issued as “Ordinary Shares” where the holder of one share is entitled to one vote, and Preferred Shares where a shareholder must have multiple shares in order to obtain one vote. The Thai majority shares are issued as “Preferred” and the foreign minority shares as “Ordinary”. This allows the foreign minority shareholders to hold less shares, but maintain control of the company by voting rights.

Typical Structure;

Foreigners may own assets in Thailand such as a development constructed on the land.

The owners of the development set up a legal structure and mechanism enabling the purchaser to own the property.

The land is owned by ABC Co. Ltd which is owned by ABC Holdings Co. Ltd (ABCCHL).

The Thai partner in the development holds the Preference Shares in ABCCHL and the Ordinary shares are owned by ABC Owners Ltd (“OWNERS”). Each purchaser at ABC Co.Ltd receives one equal pro rata share of the common stock of OWNERS. On completion of the agreed purchase amount each purchaser will own a Villa plus an equal share in OWNERS and a lease.

Corporate Ownership of property;

Condominium Purchase;

Thai corporate structures are similar to British common law. Thai law allows for a variety of company registrations,

Purchasing a condominium is the simplest transaction. The law allows foreigners to hold 49% of the units in a condominium freehold

Development purchase;

Highly recommended that a proper land search at the land office is carried out prior to making an offer.

Building Survey; To purchase a second hand property it is essential that a building survey be carried out.

Costs involved; Property tax does not apply to property being used for private residential purposes.

Costs only apply upon transfer of ownership. There are 4 categories, Transfer fees 2.0%, Stamp duty 3.3%, Business tax 0.1%, Income tax (the Thai equivalent to capital gains tax - a variable rate).

Most of the fees are calculated relative to the government’s tax assessment value of the property and this value is well below market value. The precise methods of calculation are complex, but as a rough guide for residential sales, expect the total fees and taxes to work out to be approximately 2-3% of the property market value. These costs are usually split between the buyer and seller.

Is an investment in Thailand secure?

Use a reputable business advisor and lawyer, carry out “due diligence”, and have a lease agreement prepared. Once this is done, your investment is as secure as anywhere in the world.

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Health

Background and history of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) further away from the equator you live (i.e. Russia), the greater the risk of having SAD. SAD is most common in women during the years when they can have children. It is about three times more common in women than it is in men. SAD does occur in children (especially those with eating disorders) and in older adults, but this is fairly rare.

Lucy Kenyon and Dr Ksenia Yadykina

T

his is the final article of the first year of MEL Health Matters. Here Public Health Nurse Lucy Kenyon and Dr Ksenia Yadykina, who feature as guest speakers on health topics on Voice of Russia, explore one of the most prevalent illnesses of the long Russian winter – “Seasonal Gloom”.

Since the 2nd century people have noticed that the seasons can affect our mood. The ancient Greek physician Araetaeus suggested that “lethargics should be laid in the light, and exposed to the rays of the sun (for the disease is gloom)”.

By the mid-1980s studies on the benefits of artificial light therapy and the term Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) were recognised by the Royal College of Psychiatrists and subsequently classified in its statistical manual.

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Background and stats – why does it happen and where?

Greek physician Araetaeus It is sometimes called “recurrent winter depression” and describes people who regularly become depressed in autumn and winter, although they might also be affected in the spring and summer.

In the UK, about 3 people in every 100 have significant winter depression. Feeling tired and sleeping a bit more with some weight gain is a bit like hibernation in animals. But if your symptoms are bad enough to interfere with your life, you may well have SAD. The key differences between seasonal and other depression is that in non-seasonal depression, people commonly sleep less and eat less; in SAD, they usually sleep more and eat more. We also know that the

International studies show that Russians and American Alaskans are more affected by SAD than their Norwegian and aboriginal neighbours. Diet and lifestyle may be factors contributing to this.

By strange contradiction, although it has a higher prevalence of SAD, Russia has no strict diagnosis label. Doctors including psychiatrists do acknowledge, however, that people complain of low moods starting in January each year, “lasting until the snow melts”.

What is the cause of seasonal affective disorder?

Scientists still do not fully understand the exact cause of seasonal affective disorder. The sun’s rays influence some of the substances and hormones of the brain, such

Health We believe that sunlight stimulates one of the parts of the brain, the hypothalamus (centre of autonomic nervous system), which controls mood, appetite, and sleep as melatonin (sleep hormone) and serotonin (happy hormone) and disrupt the circadian rhythm (the biological clock) that regulates specific biological processes.

This means there is every reason to believe that lack of sun exposure leads to a deteriorating mental state, which gets worse when the days get shorter. Despite this, it is not known exactly how this influence occurs.

Some researchers have linked the emergence of seasonal depression with the hormone melatonin, which causes lethargy.

When light hits the retina, it triggers a process in the body, due to which the secretion of melatonin is reduced. Thus, the light decreases amount of melatonin and promotes the production of serotonin in the brain. It is therefore considered that the light therapy has an antidepressant effect.

We believe that sunlight stimulates one of the parts of the brain, the hypothalamus (centre of autonomic nervous system), which controls mood, appetite, and sleep.

The hypothalamus is a region of the brain and is a major subject of scientific studies. According to specialists, in those who suffer from seasonal affective disorder, the lack of sunlight affects certain chemicals in the brain, causing the hypothalamus to fail in some of its functions.

How will I know if I have SAD symptoms?

Patients with SAD typically present in the winter season, with symptoms consistent with some form of depression, fatigue, carbohydrate craving and excessive hunger or increased appetite, with resulting weight gain.

What else might it be?

Before SAD is diagnosed, your doctor should consider other depressive disorders that do not have a seasonal pattern, including cyclothymic disorder, dysthymic disorder, premenstrual dysphoric

disorder, chronic fatigue syndrome, hypothyroidism, and drug or alcohol abuse.

How does the doctor diagnose it?

In Russia the diagnosis of seasonal affective disorder can only be given by a psychiatrist. Thus, the treatment can also be assigned to you only by him.

By contrast in Western Europe and the United States the diagnosis can be made by your GP. Before the diagnosis is certain, the doctor will ask you about your previous illnesses. He may order blood tests to rule out the presence of such a disease, as a dysfunction of the thyroid gland, which can cause

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Health Boost your immune system and vitamin D during the summer months – it is no coincidence that the Russians spend their summers out in the parks or at their dachas depression. He may also ask you to fill out a questionnaire in which there will be questions regarding the changes of sleep, social activity, mood, weight, appetite and vigor.

Profile may consist of such questions: • do you feel a lack of energy with the onset of winter, that is, it is because the days are getting shorter?

• how easily do you wake up in the morning?

• do you sleep more than usual?

• do you feel you want to constantly sleep?

• do you eat more than usual?

• have you gained weight?

• have you ever suffered from an eating disorder?

• do you have a family history of thyroid disease, osteoporosis, skin conditions?

• abnormal mechanisms of coping, eg social isolation, alcohol use.

The doctor may also evaluate your ability to think, evaluate, and remember (cognitive processes). The examination consists of verbal and written questions and, sometimes, laboratory tests (such as blood and urine tests). During the examination, the doctor will evaluate how you look, your mood, behavior, thinking, judgment, memory and how you

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present yourself. He may also ask how you build relationships with friends or family and ask about cases of SAD in your family.

In the DSM-IV (Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of mental disorders - Guidelines for Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of mental disorders), SAD is not a unique mood disorder, but “specifier of major depression.” Because of this seasonal affective disorder is not recognized as a separate disease. It is called the “specifier of direction” and can be used as an added description of the model of episodes of major depression in depressed patients, or in patients with bipolar disorder. This “seasonal specifier” must meet four criteria: • depressive episodes at the same time • the remission of mania (hypomania) at this time of year • these symptoms should last 2 years in the absence of non-seasonal major depressive episodes at the same time • and these seasonal depressive episodes should outperform other depressive episodes throughout the patient’s life.

How can I prevent it?

The risk of winter health this magazine. Boost your immune system and vitamin D during the summer months – it is no coincidence that the Russians spend their summers out in the parks or at their dachas.

Diet Get enough Vitamin D (Calciferol) in your diet and by going out in any sunshine or sunny periods during the winter season – lunchtime walks outside. Vitamin D is oil soluble, which means you need to eat fat to absorb it, so if you are very thin, you may need to eat butter, full fat milk or other fats with the foods containing vitamin D. It is crucial in metabolizing calcium for healthy bones, and is naturally found mainly in fish oils, fatty fish, and to a lesser extent in beef liver, cheese, egg yolks, and certain mushrooms.

Vitamin D is also naturally made by your body when you expose your skin to the sun, and thus, is called the sun-shine vitamin.

How to treat seasonal affective disorder There are different methods of treatment depending on the complexity of the illness. If you have another type of depression or bipolar disorder at the same time, this makes it more important to seek the help of a qualified psychiatrist.

Health

Light therapy consists of a full range of artificial bright light directed straight in the eye Self help It is recommended to spend more time outside, in order to fulfill the human need for daylight. If this is not possible due to the dark winter months, antidepressants and/ or light therapy can be prescribed.

Exercise is the other therapeutic activity for people exhibiting SAD symptoms. Fitness training in bright light is of greater benefit than relaxation training. Exercise and light exposure can be combined, of course, by walking outside, which is free and easy to fit in around a busy schedule. Just one week of outdoor walks for an hour each morning makes all the difference!

What else can I do?

If you find yourself feeling low during the early winter, and the recommendations above do not help, keep a simple symptom record in your diary for a couple of weeks to find out when they occur: • keep a key or code for each symptom e.g. S = feeling sad, H = hungry between meals, T = tired during the day • score the severity (1 not bad10 terrible)

Light therapy Light therapy consists of a full range of artificial bright light directed straight in the eye. NB – do not risk looking into the sun! The patient sits at a distance of 30-60 meters from the bright light source, which is twenty times brighter than normal room lighting. Treatment should be started with a 10-15 minute session, increasing it to 30-45 minutes a day, depending on patient’s response.

Symptoms of winter depression lie along a severity spectrum. This means it is normal to be affected to some degree. Researchers in Canada found that patients suffering from depression who were admitted to sunny rooms had shorter lengths of stay than those situated in dull rooms. Office workers in Finland, who received light therapy for half the time from November to February, rated themselves as feeling happier in mood and vitality when using a light box.

Some patients recover after a few sessions. Others need a little more time. If there is no improvement, the doctor may increase the light treatment to two sessions a day.

In cases when the light therapy brings relief, it is advised to continue sessions for preventive purposes until the spring comes.

Is light therapy an effective treatment?

Light therapy is effective for treating SAD; clinical improvement is usually observed one to two weeks after the start of treatment.

Patients should be positioned about 12 to 18 inches from a source of 10,000 lux of white, fluorescent light without ultraviolet wavelengths.

• therapy should last for 30 minutes daily in the early morning.

• eyes must be open, although it is not necessary to stare at the light.

• after remission, dosing may be individualized for the rest of the winter season.

• in subsequent years, treatment may begin in early autumn to avoid relapse.

Antidepressants Studies have shown that taking antidepressants along with the passage of light therapy sessions, has a positive result on improving mood and increasing vitality.

The effectiveness of antidepressants depends on the type and severity of SAD. A large international multi-center study demonstrated that an antidepressant boosting serotonin (SSRI) is most effective administered as a 3-week single therapy course.

If the seasonal depression does not respond to SSRI single therapy, polycyclic antidepressants combined with SSRIs or modern antipsychotics are recommended.

Occasional electroconvulsive therapy (ECT) is used for patients with SAD where drug resistance has developed.

There is some innovation in the treatment of depression, and the first melatoninergic antidepressant has been developed. This can stabilise your biological rhythms by influencing the circadian system The mechanism of this drug means it may also be a useful weapon in the treatment of SAD. Cognitive behaviour therapy (CBT) Core Beliefs

Rules& Assumptions

Thoughts, Feelings& Behaviours

When tailored for SAD, CBT is an acceptable treatment option and may have prophylactic benefits for subsequent years. CBT helps you to examine your patterns of thinking and how those affect our moods, emotions and actions. It then enables you to challenge those patterns and change your mood by association.

Conclusion

SAD can be a very debilitating illness and should be taken seriously. Prevention is better than cure – so look after yourself in the run up to and during the Russian Winter!

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Moscow Personalities

Mark and Lois Gilbert

Canadian Mark and Lois Gilbert have been living in Moscow since 2008. Mark is the Russia and CIS representative for Bombardier, a director of CERBA and is a prominent member of the Canadian expat community, as is Lois who is a coordinator of the Canadian Women in Moscow and has recently been promoted to Bailli du Moscou for the international Gastronomic Association, Chaine des Rotisseurs. Moscow expat Life talked to them about their experiences of living in Moscow and what it is like working here.

Interview by John Harrison

How did you come to be working and living in Moscow?

Mark: We’ve been living here a little over 4 years, going into our fifth year. I had been coming back and forth here for 6 years. The travel became too hectic, so I suggested to Bombardier that I’m happy to stay if you move me here, so here we are.

How did you survive in the beginning?, did you have difficulty adapting?

Mark: We rented a flat, work was busy, I was travelling a lot into the regions. For my recreation I do a lot

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of running, swimming and cycling to keep fit. I still run six days a week, and now I go out with the Moscow Street Riders on the weekends, when we can do 100k plus on one ride.

Lois: I’m somebody who will jump in and start doing things wherever I am. The first day I was here, I joined the AWO and the IWC. Eventually I started working on their boards, and I became totally involved in Moscow life in a different way from Mark. Right now, I am volunteering for Sochi 2014, I’m interview international volunteers for the Olympics and am very involved in the wine and cuisine culture in Moscow.

How did you get involved with Sochi?

Lois: I was involved with both the Vancouver and London Olympics.

When the Olympics was first announced here, I approached the Sochi 2014 team and told them that I have relevant experience. I didn’t think that there is a culture of volunteering here, but I was wrong.

They had about 200,000 people apply for volunteer jobs, about 5,000 are international volunteers, so we are working our way though that.

It is interesting that their PR office has asked me to speak to a lot of different people about volunteering

Moscow Personalities and the culture of volunteering. We always thought that the culture of volunteering is not here, but we have had people coming off the street and saying: I want to be a volunteer. It is surprising and heartwarming how many Russians are coming forward.

Do you think this could be the beginning of a new Russian national idea?

Lois: This is definitely the beginning of something, the excitement of the games has really caught hold, and this is something that people want to become a part of. To me, this is really exciting.

Do you speak Russian?

Lois: I try, I’m not very good. We have a zone at work where we can only speak Russian, so I go and talk to anybody who is there in Russian.

Russian was actually my first language; my grandparents were Russian. They immigrated to Canada in 1899, I spoke it as a little child, but you know when you get into school, your knowledge of a second language stops pretty quickly if they don’t speak it at that school.

My writing and pronounciation are quite good, I can’t say the same thing about my vocabulary skills!

Mark: I speak enough to get by.

What was doing business here like at the beginning?

Mark: From a work perspective it wasn’t bad, because I had already been travelling here for some time. I had been working with commercial airlines, which were buying western aircraft, they had people who spoke English, so I didn’t really have to speak Russian to do my job. I think the most difficult part was having lived a life of travelling, staying in hotels etc., to then all of a sudden coming here and moving into my own flat and having to look after myself. This was much more of an eye opener than I thought it was going to be. After that, it was fine.

How do you find Russians to do business with?

Mark: At the end of the day, business is all about relationships.

So you have to get to know your customers fairly well if you want to be successful. That takes time, so a lot of things that might go faster in the West, like negotiating a deal, putting everything together, finalising everything can take longer. Most companies here have one single person who makes the decisions, but decisions have to be vetted by a group, and this process can be bureaucratic and very time consuming. This needs to be factored in.

Do you find Russians reliable, honest business partners?

Mark: I find them honest. When they tell you things, that’s usually the way it is. You may not like that, you might want to change it, but in the end of the day you come back to the position they adopted in the first place. This may not be very easy to communicate to people from head office who come over, because their business environment is so different.

Lois: I find Russians need time to get to know you, if you find somebody that you have a connection with then it seems to go a lot faster. Russians don’t seem to like the departure side of things too much. If you are going away, they will cut things off quite abruptly, they wont hang around and be emotional.

What are the main difficulties that you experience when living here?

Lois: Trying to get work done in the apartment. We have a relatively good landlord so things get done in a decent time, but major projects sometimes get left undone. They come and view it, say yes we are going to do it, but things only get done after a long time. This is not something we are used to. If we hire a contractor to come and do something, we expect it to be done

in a certain time. For example, going and buying a washing machine and getting it installed. You would think that the guy who delivers it would install it, but no, you have to have a plumber, Then the guy to remove the old machine and all that sort of thing, all the jobs here are very compartmentalised.

So how do you get things done?

Lois: I just continually persist.

I keep on and on to the landlord, and they are very good to us now. I recognise that the worst thing to do is to lose my cool and start shouting at people, that gets nowhere. I actually found it relatively easy to fit into the lifestyle here. Even though my language skills aren’t that good, I am still able to get what has to be done, done.

On the business side Mark, it must be really difficult now because you are up against local suppliers?

Mark: 10 years ago there were only Russian aircraft, but we looked at the market and thought that there was a lot of opportunity for us to be able to participate. We realised that this is going to take a while, this is not something that is going to happen overnight. We persisted, and successes were seen by the company, and that helped. Now Russia is an international market like many others.

So it’s a long-term business, long money? It also means that you need to be around for long time?

Mark: Yes, it’s long money, but it’s the company that decides if I am going to be here for the long term or not, not me. Eventually the company will hire more local people, there are many good people around, but I am in no rush to leave.

I cover the entire CIS as well, so you can take what you learn here with you, but they are all different and have their own personalities, which is something you have to bear in mind when you are talking to

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Moscow Personalities people. It’s not just one country, is a collection of countries, and they are all different one from the other with some similarities.

What’s the main thing you need to remember when you are doing business in Russia?

Mark: Be patient, work with a trustworthy partner or group of people. Apart from listening to them, you have to work with them very closely. You can’t sit back and put your western ways of doing things in front of you, you’ve got to find out what the issues really are, and deal with them.

Lois: I agree, you do have to develop a relationship so that people can trust you, you have to be yourself. For me, the answer is just to be friendly, and I am lucky because I am an easy-going person, and I will talk to anybody, I didn’t find the experience of moving into Russia overwhelming.

You are both Canadians, is the Canadian community in Moscow active?

Lois: There is a good Canadian community here; I coordinate the activities of the Canadian Women Club in Moscow, although the only main activity we are doing as a group activity now is a Thanksgiving Dinner. I would say that outside the embassy, there are a couple of hundred Canadian women who are in contact with me. We have taken part in the International Women’s Club charity drives and generally stay in contact with each other.

Is there a Canadian school here?

Lois: There isn’t a Canadian school, but there is a Russian Canadian who runs a school which has been expanding quite rapidly recently.

What about on the business front, is there a Canadian business club?

Mark: Yes, I am a director of the Canada Eurasia Russian Business Association, which is going strong.

What do you find to be the most interesting element in Canadian-Russian relations?

Mark: Both countries have a lot on common: both are large and are bountiful in raw materials, but Canada’s population is very small in comparison to Russia’s. There is a lot of exchange in the resource sector.

We don’t have the power that the Americans or Brits do when it comes to issues, we try to keep in the centre as much as we can.

Do you feel overshadowed by the Americans?

Mark: Not really, because the Americans are doing different things in Russia. Some of our board members are Americans and visa versa.

How is business going between Canada and Russia?

Mark: It’s growing. There is the oil and gas sector and the aerospace sector, which are the two strongest segments.

Lois: There are a lot of small businesses like restaurants that are coming over to try the waters here.

For example ‘Fresh’ a company from Toronto, a vegetarian restaurant chain which has just come over.

Russian culture in Canada is growing as well. There is a very large Russian community in the Toronto area that tend to live and shop and do everything in the same general area.

Like Brighton Beach?

Lois: No, it’s much more integrated. They are bringing their restaurants and stores over to Canada. There’s a totally Russian store just north of Toronto called Yummy. The clerks only speak Russian, the food is just the same as in Moscow. We have a pretty open door policy to Russians.

Canadians respect authority and pay their taxes, the country seems from a distance to be quite conservative. How to Canadians react to being in Russia, which at times can be a reckless?

Mark: A lot of people who are coming over have already done business here, and have been exposed to Russia. A lot of people have misconceptions about how difficult everything is here, but when they have come through customs and check into their hotels, they seem to say, Oh, we didn’t realise that this is such a modern place! They don’t necessarily see all the underlying issues which you see if you are living here, but usually they find that their preconceptions are not right.

Car to sell? Organising an event?

Advertise for free at www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

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Moscow Personalities

Interview by Peter Haisnworth

Biker Pete Dick I met English biker Pete Dick in the Punch and Judy pub on Pyatnitskaya Ulitsa, a place that Pete and his biker friends hold some of their ‘MERC’ (Moscow Expat Bikers Club) gatherings. Pete is the quintessential middleEngland biker, and it was rather disorientating meeting and talking to him about biking and the biking world in the middle of Moscow.

What are you doing here?

I moved here in April 2010. My background is in IT, the same as my wife, we both worked for the same company. She came over to the UK office, in 2008, on a training course she was running, and that was how we met. I subsequently applied for a transfer here, but because of the financial climate at the time, they asked us to wait. We waited three months, then another three months, then another three months, they said “can you wait another three months please?”, and I said “no”. I said “We have put plans into place, if you can’t put it into effect now, then I’m leaving”. So I left, and came here without a job. Prior to working for that company, I had worked for myself as an independent IT consultant for 13 years and some of that consultancy work involved running training courses, so I had no problems teaching and doing presentations. I did a TEFL course and got involved with a guy here who was setting up a school.

We started off in August 2010 - two of us and about 20 students, He was a brilliant teacher but I was the better administrator. He said: “I’ll do the teaching, you run the school.” Over the next 15 months the two of us built it up to a school with 7 teachers and over 300 students. We were doing very well, but the school wasn’t mine. I was making him a lot of money. I walked away, in October 2011, mainly out of frustration. We’re still friends. I had proved to myself that I could do this, and running my own school became my long-term plan. In the meantime I have been doing some freelance teaching work, and some IT freelance consultancy work. I also do some voice recording and have done one film recording!

Apparently, my voice is normal middle-English, which the Russians like. I have recorded the sound tracks for maybe 40 or 50 different walking tours all over St. Petersburg, Vienna, Moscow, Paris, London and Istanbul.

So I have three feathers in my cap at the moment: teaching; IT Consultancy and voice recording!

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Moscow Personalities What bike do you drive, did you ride it here?

My bike is a Yamaha FJR 1300, that model replaced the Yamaha FJ 1200. I saw a review of it in the motorbike press it looked like a beautiful machine. I was a consultant at the time, earning a lot of money, so I just went out and bought one, on the September number plate. I’ve been a member of the FJR Owners’ Forum ever since. I go to various FJR meetings in the UK, I’ve made a lot of friends through it, this is the longest I’ve had any bike, it’s an amazing machine.

I came here in April 2010, and left my bike in my brother’s garage. I missed it so much that in September I flew back and rode it here. That took me three days and was a real adventure! I admit that I lost my rag with the border guards. Sometimes you need to show them that you are not prepared to tolerate their nonsense! Since I’ve been living here I’ve ridden to Volgograd, where my wife’s parents live. Because my bike is still on British plates it has to leave the country every four months, so last weekend I drove to Ukraine, down the M2 just to be able to cross the border to be able to get a three month visa which can then be extended to 12 months. That was a pleasant weekend. The last three hours coming back on the Sunday was – interesting – because of the weather. There were dreadful thunderstorms, flash flooding, not pleasant to be on a bike, particularly with some of the idiot drivers around who created “bow waves” with absolutely no consideration of others. They have a small focus zone, and don’t think about other road users. Driving standards here are appalling.

Riding in Russia is an experience, and I think that, in order to improve driving standards, everyone should be forced to ride a motorbike for two years before they are allowed into a car. I think that driving standards would improve dramatically, because their awareness of other road users would be become much better.

Is there a bikers club here you are a part of, or do you communicate with other bikers in some way?

We set up a group on Facebook called MERC – Moscow Expat Riders’ Club – which now has about 20 members, most of whom I have met. We do try to organise rides out, but we’re not affiliated with any Russian biking group. Occasionally we will meet out at Sparrow Hills, where the big biker groups hang out, but I’d rather be riding than sitting there talking. Over the last two years, at the end of April, beginning of May, there’s been the Harley Brothers’ Festival, which has been held at Bor, which is about 35 kilometres South of Moscow. This used to be linked with the government, now it is a private hotel complex. Very Soviet, but very nice.Harley Davidson is very big over here because Russians like anything American. Personally, I’d rather have a bike that works!

Apart from all that, there is a kind of fraternity amongst bikers. When you’re riding and you see another biker, you always acknowledge him or her. If

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you see another biker stuck by the side of the road, you invariably stop to offer assistance.

So Yamahas are reliable?

Very. There are various categories of bikes. Most of the Harleys that you see here are what’s classed as cruisers.

They make a lot of noise, people hear them, there’s a lot of chrome to be polished. It’s the classic 50s, 60s style bike.

Russians are very image-conscious; they like to be seen with their bikes. Mine is classed as a sports-tourer, a sports bike with touring capabilities, with panniers on it. It’s got decent seats for long distance riding, so I prefer mine, the best bike I’ve ever owned.

What does the wife think of it?

She loves it. She was very nervous when I told her about my biking life, back in 2008. She told me a story about when she was 10, and her father bought her a push bike. She had this beautiful bike but she cried, because she was scared. So I said, fine, we’ll go for one ride. I won’t drive quickly, if you like it that’s fine, if you don’t, that’s also fine. I will never force you to go on a bike again. So we rode from Wokingham, where I lived at the time to Ascot. I stopped once on the way, and she said this it is fantastic. She’s never looked back. The next FJR event is being held in Llangollen, in North Wales, in August this year, and we are riding together, on the bike, all the way back to the UK. I will take it more slowly, we’ll take three or four days to get there.

What’s slowly?

As the driving conditions permit. A lot of the roads in Russia are of very poor quality, with potholes and everything else. I cruise at 120, 130 km an hour if I’m with somebody.

Moscow Personalities And if you’re not with somebody?

A little bit quicker. I cruise on my own at 100mph plus, when out of built up areas. You don’t get to my age and be a biker if you don’t drive carefully. I don’t take risks.

So it is the feeling of independence that you get out on the open road?

Yes, I love the feeling of freedom, the ability to be able to filter through traffic jams and everything else. In Russia you are shown some courtesy, but there are some drivers who resent the fact that you can avoid their traffic jam. You can see when a driver has seen you in his mirror and has moved one way or the other to block your way. One advantage that people on Harley’s have is that their bikes make a lot of noise. So they will rip the throttle to let people know they are there. My bike is like a Rolls Royce. Revving the engine doesn’t do any good.

I don’t suffer fools gladly. I think I’m better being my own boss, I do like the independence. I get very frustrated, very quickly, with bureaucracy, which is a problem living in Russia. I wouldn’t like to drive a car in Moscow. I think the metro is unbelievably good. The efficiency of the system, the frequency of the trains, the fact that they run from 5.30am to 1am in the morning, it’s a brilliant system, nevertheless, if you use it between 7.30am and 9.30am you can be physically in contact with about 5 or 6 other people simultaneously, because they are so closely packed in around you. Walking down the street, you’re walking round cars which are either double parked or parked on the pavement. Now they are introducing a parking charge system, and you can usually tell a street that has this system because there are no cars parked there. It’s just moving the problem.

I don’t think that it’s solving the problem. I don’t know what the answer is, maybe working from home.

What about the traffic police here, how do you handle them?

I’ve been stopped by the police 4 times in just over 2 years. The first time I was stopped was 2 or 3 days after I brought my bike in to Russia, and I committed a cardinal sin of crossing a double white line. The policeman signalled me to stop and pulled me in. I phoned my wife and she acted as an interpreter, and, shall we say, we managed to “resolve” the situation. I was then pulled up three months later, it was a random check, they wanted to see paperwork, documents.

I pulled the lot out, he could see that they were foreign. He didn’t even bother to look at the number plate at the back of the bike, or translate the documents. The other two times was within 20 minutes of each other at the beginning of this season. I think the police had been given instructions to check all motorbikes because it was the start of the season.

On the first occasion I was asked where I was from, I said England. He said ah, Manchester United, go! Twenty minutes

later, the same thing happened. I think they realise that English people have their documents in order, so really I’ve had no problems with the police.

What about speeding, don’t you get stopped for that now they have all those cameras everywhere?

The cameras are forward facing and bike number pates are on the back, fortunately. I always have a little heart flutter when I cross the border because I’ve been told that if there are any unpaid fines, they won’t let you out of the country. They’ve not tracked me down yet, must be because I keep within the speed limit (laughs).

A coffee making machine started created continuous scraping sounds making further meaningful conversation difficult. If you are an expat biker, Pete can be found on his facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ groups/213109478802386/

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Moscow Personalities

Wouter van der Wiel

What inspired you to take your very first trip to Russia?

I was looking for adventure, that’s why I began travelling abroad. I was working for a hotel chain, and went to Prague for my job. Everyone was talking about Moscow there. I decided I should just go and see it for myself. The whole process of getting into the country was exciting in itself. Filling out the forms for my visa, getting the insurance… I flew into Moscow on Aeroflot. The airport doors opened, I stepped outside. It was very cold, and there was no sign saying how to get to the city center. Finally a marshrutka took me to the chaotic Rechnoy Vokzal, and from there I managed to get to the ‘Ukraina’ hotel where I had a room booked. I’m proud to say I got to stay there before renovation, when it was still very Soviet – a bit dirty, green painted walls, the screechy ‘parket’…

You gave your room key to the tired and bored ‘floor lady’ every time you went out. They served Russian breakfast of sauerkraut, potatoes and ‘syrniki’…

If someone told you back then that you were going to live in Russia one day, would you believe them?

For 12 years, I spent all my vacations and money travelling around Russia. Especially the Caucasus – I was fascinated by the climate, the food, the culture.

It was my intention to move to Moscow, and in 2010 I came here to launch and lead Ozon e-solutions, the fifth company within Ozon Group.

E-commerce is a business segment that’s relatively new to Russia. How do you see your role there?

The fast growing business segment of e-commerce is getting shaped right now, so it’s the right time to come. How I see my role… I’m Jewish, and I try to live out the principles of Judaism and Freemasonry, and my understanding of these

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By Helen Borodina

Fourteen years ago, on a winter day a young adventurous Dutchman was standing at the exit of the Sheremetyevo international airport, clueless as to how to get to the center of Moscow. Today one of the co-founders of Russia’s first e-commerce service company, ‘Souyzgroup,’ knows his way around. Wouter van der Wiel reminiscences his first time in Russia and shares the ‘snapshots’ of his Moscow life as we talk at the ‘posh’ White Rabbit restaurant in the center of Moscow.

principles defines who I am and what I do. I feel that I can make a difference. I’m here to use my skills, my knowledge and my experience to make something significant happen. I love to inspire people. Russians seem to be afraid of stepping out into the unknown. I’m not here to say how it should be, but to come alongside those Russians who are willing to make it happen, to offer them guidance and assistance.

With that vision we started ‘Soyuzgroup’ (in January 2013; van der Wiel is one of the 4 co-founders).

How would you characterize the current state of e-commerce in Russia? Could it ever work as well here as it does in the USA and Europe?

The Russian e-commerce market is still young and wild.

In 2008, online shopping came to Russia and was a real revolution. Now it’s the time to focus more on quality and the level of services. Russia is ten years behind Europe and the USA in e-commerce and the use of internet in general…

But the Russian e-commerce market is developing fast, and will catch up. Yes, it’s a long way to go, but it will happen. You cannot change mentality within a day.

It’s a matter of time.

Would you say learning Russian is essential? Do you speak Russian?

I speak four languages – Dutch, English, German and Yiddish. And yes, I’m learning Russian! I have a tutor, and I speak Russian to my friends. I make a lot of mistakes, of course, but I try to use all the words I know. It might not be grammatically correct, but I’m able to make myself understood.

How long are you planning to stay in Russia?

As long as possible. I like the country from the ‘soul’ point of view. I like the winter, the cold, the extremes, the multicultural environment, the vastness… 10-hour plane flights inside the same country, and of course the rich history and the culture.

Moscow Personalities What’s your personal Moscow like?

I like the ‘posh’ style of Moscow. It’s a part of the new culture of today’s Russia. I love being around the environment, I enjoy the style and the quality of the posh places, the expensive cars, and how the ‘posh’ Russians love to go to the dacha, where babushka makes apple ‘kompot’ (stewed apple drink), and the only thing that counts is being with the family. I like to watch people in the streets, trying to catch the trend, but everybody seems to be so unique. I admire the Moscow architecture. It’s so diverse, and can tell you so much of the Russian history – the Mongols, the Soviet Union, the Tsarist times. There’s old Moscow, the modern part, the interesting, the uninteresting… Sometimes when I drive or walk in Moscow I see views I haven’t seen before.

What is the most impressive sight in Moscow you’ve seen so far?

My favorite part of Moscow is, I guess, here, where we are right now (16th floor of Smolenskaya plaza, White Rabbit restaurant) because of the view on all the big buildings. I like Kutuzovsky prospect, the buildings in that area, the canal.

Krasny Oktyabr’ (former Soviet chocolate factory, now a club and center for modern art events) across from the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour is very impressive.

When you go back to Holland to visit friends and family, what souvenirs from Russia do you bring?

Vodka, Matryoshka?

No. Chocolate. At first, everyone is surprised, but then they try it, they love it and begin to realize that Russia is more than vodka, matryoshka and mafia.

Finding and Keeping Qualified Staff in Russia Russia is on track for yet another year of above average GDP performance. But while economic growth promises great prosperity, it also brings a lot of new challenges such as a shortage of qualified labour.

The lesson we learned over the last decade is that qualified Russian staff are just as expensive as in the West. Today, the lesson we are learning is that there is simply not enough qualified labour available on the market which is especially felt by compaines in need of technicians, engineers, sales and finance staff.

So how can companies in Russia cope with the shortfall? Here are some tips for finding, assessing and keeping employees in the finance sector - our area of excellence.

Finding In the fast changing Russian labour market, professional networks have gained more importance when it comes to finding the right employee. When searching for candidates with special qualifications, an innovative approach to advertising vacancies should be considered.

At RUSSIA CONSULTING, we make use of

networks such as LinkedIn to identify qualified candidates who may not see or respond to traditionally advertised vacancies. In contrast to labour markets in many Western countries, personal contact is more important in Russia.

Career and professional fairs are another source recruiters should be looking into.

Assessing When asking for references, the recruiter should be aware that references may be friends or relatives of the candidiate.

This should not be seen as a sign that the candidiate lacks integrity though, as this procedure is new to the business culture in Russia. Also, the understanding that a reference should be independent has not yet been fully incorporated into business conduct. Due to the fact that people tend to overestimate their own abilities and qualifications, it is important to check essential qualifications such as university degrees.

Keeping Russian employees are aware of the value they bring to the company and they know how buoyant the demand for qualified employees is. Most can immediately pick up a better paid

job opportunity should they become frustrated or lose interest in their current position. The best way to address this risk is to have a focused training plan which takes into account the needs of each key employee. If they are the kind of employee you will want to retain, they will value this more than a little extra money in the short-term. Having left behind the disastrous lack of motivation often associated with the Soviet period, management staff on all levels are very keen to improve their skills and move on. Western companies have a unique advantage here and a lack of required language skills should not necessarily stand in the way of recruiting the right candidate.

In the Russian market, it is important to use a variety of techniques to find, assess and retain talented staff. While this may seem like a daunting process, RUSSIA CONSULTING has the knowledge and expertise to assist in the search for the right candidiate.

Michael Spaeth Director of Business Development RUSSIA CONSULTING +7 / 495 / 956 55 57 SpaethM@russia-consulting.eu www.russia-consulting.eu

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Driving

D

riving in Moscow can be scary for the newly arrived, driving expatriate.

It takes a few months and some getting used to. For starts, we drive on the right here, something you shouldn’t forget, particularly the morning following a night out when one’s concentration may not be at its best. I have been driving here for a number of years and don’t particularly enjoy it, but I think I now know how to do it. Here are a few of my experiences, and a few tips that you might find useful.

M Jay

ay

The driving experience Moscow roads are Big, Busy and Bad. Traffic jams will stretch your nerves but please keep calm. Russian drivers are calm, they are used to it.

They watch television and they don’t tend to get angry. They are resigned to their road fate. I have seen women knitting in traffic jams, cats in cars and dogs at the wheel. If you don’t like knitting, do Sudoku, a crossword puzzle or watch a movie on your smart phone. I don’t recommend doing these things while actually driving, but in case of traffic, allow plenty of time to get from one place to another. It’s usually better to drive in Moscow at the weekends

certificate if your car is over three years old, and car registration document.

The traffic police stand by the side of the road with a white stick, you will be waved over to stop and asked for all your papers. Some traffic police take a bribe, while others do their job according to protocol. I have seen cars in Moscow with one headlight, no headlights, no car plates, no windows and some looking as if they have just left an off-road car race, where the car had a fight with a tree. I am not totally sure how some cars drive on the road here at all or what the traffic police look for when they stop a car.

I have had a broken indicator (signal light) for six months now but have not

HOW TO DRIVE New expat drivers

Language, Moscow traffic police and the road signs are perhaps the biggest worries for many foreign drivers here. We now have fantastic technology, that can speak to us and guide us in any direction, in any country in the world. You can use your car navigation system, or your smart phone. Bart, Basil Fawlty, Darth Vader or almost any other celebrity voice, will guide you through the tangled web of Moscow roads.

You do not need to speak Russian, however if you get terribly lost, Russian will help if you need to stop and ask the way but even then you can use your phone translator. When I have been lost in Moscow, Russians have always been happy to help.

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or during national Russian holidays, when many Russians are away or at their dachas. Moscow roads are huge, with many lanes in each direction and turning left is hard to impossible here. You can only turn left when you see a broken white line or at traffic lights. Roundabouts here are as rare as an honest politician. On any Russian road, always get out of the way if you hear a series of unpleasant get-out-of-my-way electronic barks, from a police car. They have the power to ram you out of the way or even or worse if you block their path, so scram!

Carry your documents with you at all times. That is, a Russian driving license or international driving license, a car insurance certificate, road-test

fixed it, as many Moscow drivers don’t usually bother to signal at all when turning. Drivers can be aggressive and manners and politeness can be considered a waste of time. Try not to use your horn (klaxon), as you never know who is behind the wheel in front of you. I have seen drivers get out of the cars to fight and argue when they have been hooted. Lane-sharing is common here and even expected and encouraged. This is when a car drives over the line, into your lane. Russian drivers are usually very impatient, I have seen them overtake on the inside hard shoulder (lay by lane) and overtake the car in front, on a road zebra crossing. There are new rules on parking in Moscow. You are not supposed to park across a road, on

Driving zebra crossing and offenders can be fined, but most drivers ignore this and park on zebra crossings, on the pavements (sidewalks) and almost anywhere else they want to.

Tyres, petrol & washing your car Each new winter and summer season, you will need to change your tyres. Russians usually do such things at set times of the year; such as in October and April. Take your car to an official dealer or to one of the many car-tyre changing places in Moscow.

There are some at petrol stations and a guy will swap your summer for

car’s engine. You must carry a fire extinguisher, a reflective jacket and a first aid kit with you at all times. If in doubt, ask your embassy for full car equipment rules.

I was amazed to find out that it is illegal to wash your own car here.

I found out the hard way, when one day an angry Russian came up to me in my yard and began shouting at me to stop washing my car. The reason is that local authorities do not want people making a mess of the yards between buildings, which in the centre of Moscow are very cramped.

You can only get your car washed at a car wash which can be found at big petrol stations, sometimes in

your insurance company and should not move your car an inch away from the place where the accident occurred; even if you are blocking a major road. The police officer will come and take details, photos, measure the road, and this can take a long time. Without having the police check everything, you will not be able to make any insurance claims.

Personally, I only drive once a month, to go shopping in a large supermarket, as I am a bit nervous of driving in Moscow. I am nervous because of aggression and because of

IN MOSCOW winter tyres, from about 800 rubles.

Make sure they balance the wheels and put your tyres into plastic bags to stop your car from getting dirty. Petrol (gas) is very cheap here, as Russia has lots of it. Usually but by no means everywhere, a man will fill up your car for you at petrol stations. This service is usually free but tip them if you want to. Strangely, unleaded fuel is in a red pump, rather than a green one, as it is back home in my own country. Make sure you don’t put the wrong fuel into your car, it does happen to the novice driver here. In most garages, paying for fuel is the opposite to back home, you pay for your petrol first then fill up. Be careful to choose a reputable petrol station, as sometimes fuel can be dirty and it will damage your

car parks, at shopping centres and sometimes at big dedicated car washing places. In the winter, the roads get full of dirty black snow, so you will need to visit a car-washing place regularly. Prices start at about 300 rubles. It begins to get icy here from about November, so make sure you put anti-freeze into your cooling system, as well as non-freezing cleaning liquid into your windscreenwashing system, before the ice comes or you will be unable to clean your windows. The main Moscow roads are usually cleared regularly of snow. If you do have an accident and are not injured, be ready to spend a long time registering the accident with the police. You have to call the traffic police immediately as well as

the awful traffic but if you have a family, a car for shopping is essential. Just remember, keep calm, use your mirrors often, watch speed limits and try not to use your horn. Be assertive, plan the journey, use your car navigation or smart phone. Always have plenty of fuel and in-car entertainment, for any potential traffic jams. Always carry your papers and have all the required equipment in your car. In the winter, keep your windows, car plates and headlights clean of black snow or ice.

Happy driving.

Jay May, English dad in Moscow, http://www. englishdadinmoscow.com/

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Ecology

Chris Slappendel

Tigers have always fascinated me ever since I was a young. Only recently, while still in my home country the Netherlands, I discovered that the tiger really is in danger, with only 2,500 left in the wild. In October of 2012 I decided to dedicate one year of my life to do my bit to save the tiger. On the 15th of May I kicked off my journey in Moscow and I’m on the road until the 15th of November; through all the countries where the tiger once lived or is still living.

The reason for ‘TigerTrail’ is to heighten awareness, not only about the situation the tiger is in but about solutions as well.

R

ussia is blessed with one of the 9 subspecies of the tiger, the Panthera Tigris Altaica. This tiger also lives in China and is also known as the Siberian, the Manchurian and the South East China tiger. Russians call it the Amur tiger. This majestic animal lives in the delta of the Amur River in the Russian Far East (RFE) and has a hard time surviving. Russia has a good history with regard to the conservation of the Amur tiger, only 30-50 tigers were left in this region, mostly because of poaching. Due to effective measures (like the creation of a special law enforcement brigade called ‘Inspection Tiger)’ the Amur tiger has managed to survive. The result is that the population has grown and in the late 1980s there were roughly 500 tiger in the area.

Without going into details, in 2000 the Russian government unfortunately decided to change their policy, which led to change of funds and focus. The result was that ‘Inspection Tiger’ was dismantled and that poaching—the biggest threat for tigers nowadays—was again the reason for a decrease in numbers of the Amur tiger. Although the exact number of tigers is unknown (tigers can’t be easily counted, so alternative and questionable methods are used), experts believe that there will be only 270-300 tigers at the next ‘count’.

So why is the Putin-administration not doing anything? It is. President Putin hosted the Global Tiger Forum in 2010 where important steps were introduced for tigers worldwide. And in Russia this resulted

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in a different approach, with more people working in conservancy, in law enforcement and with more focus. Just recently two important things happened. President Putin is about to sign a law making punishments much higher and he will also introduced a fund, albeit a conservative fund especially for the conservation of the Amur tiger.

If you compare this with what is happening in other countries you can say Russia is setting a good example.

However, whilst in the RFE, I visited several natural reserves and talked with biologists, the directors of these reserves, scientists, NGOs, (former) law enforcement officers and with lots of others concerned with the Amur tiger, I learned that it is possible to do much more. Not only because there is enough space for over 1,000 Amur tigers there but also because conservation measures can be executed more effectively.

For example, Russians love to hunt. The number of hunting permits in Primorsky Krai only is more than 50,000 for a population of only 2 million people. With so many people hunting, the forests of the RFE are almost empty. And this means that prey for tigers is scarce and they really need food to survive and to reproduce.

Drastically reducing this number of permits will help, but prohibiting hunting will be even better. Hunters will claim they are already restricted. The hunters’ lobby is strong and influential, and restrictions are often not enforced for all hunters. Changing these ‘shielded’ restrictions into real restrictions will help.

Another example is monitoring. The RFE is such a large area that within the current financial limitations and the lack of skills and adequate materials hunterspoachers have almost nothing to fear from anti-poaching teams. And if they are caught the current legal framework makes conviction almost impossible (only a dozen convictions per year). I wonder if the FSB is not able to do something, as they are masters in surveillance. To be

really effective it is essential to have not only dedicated law enforcers but also real prosecution as well.

Of course I have experienced ineffective management and heard strong rumors about corruption as well.

Improving management skills will help to expose corrupt inspectors. But these two things are a nationwide challenge, so I’ve heard. I would rather focus on the RFEsituation. I asked myself the question: why do people hunt? And I not only asked myself the question, I asked a lot of others too. The answer was always the same: for fun, for ego but also to provide their families with food.

And this brings me to the core of the current problem: the poor economic situation in the RFE, and President Putin has shown his concern about this as well.

Instead of developing this area into a gas- and oil extraction centre, with devastating effects on nature the RFE could also be developed into an area for adventure eco tourism. Nature is almost purpose-designed for biking, trekking, rafting, cross-country skiing and other exciting activities. Tourism will contribute to a better overall economic situation, but can also damage carefully conserved nature if implemented carelessly. A vision and a master plan on tourism with a focus on high-end lodges will lead to large revenues, and will also create extra demand for luxury food, souvenirs, clothing and transport. This means extra jobs, and less hunting/poaching, as India is demonstrating. Even the oligarchs could help here by investing in the natural heritage of Russia instead of spending it in football clubs. People will admire them for it, I’m sure.

There is still so much to do. Not only the government has to act. Also companies should step up, just like the people living in the RFE. Everyone must be aware that the threats are real and that Russia could lose its most precious animal: the Amur tiger.

Travel

Bogdarnya W

ould you like to take a break with a difference from the humdrum of Moscow life? Would you like to go fishing, horse-riding, ride in a horse drawn carriage, go quadracycling, participate in master classes on cheese making and meat preparation, go on picnics deep in the forest by horseback, or just take it easy in a beautiful lake-shore wooden Russian home, all at very reasonable prices? If the answer is yes, the ecologically friendly agricultural and eco-tourism centre Bogdarnya, which is a three hour drive or two hour train journey west of Moscow, is for you. Here you can enjoy all that authentic Russian culture and traditions have to offer, but with western service.

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Bogdarnya Bogdarnya is a 400 hectar working farm and tourism centre spread out on three different sites near the village of Petushki, 120km west of Moscow, along the banks and water meadows of the river Klyazma. The surrounding countryside is incredibly beautiful. The farm was started by long-time expat John Kopiski and his wife Nina who settled in the area 20 years ago. John’s farm has now become one of the major milk and meat production centres in the region, but the enterprise has become much more than a farm. Employing locals, running children’s camps in the summer, building and restoring authentic Russian churches and buildings, John has become a part of the local community. On the way, he has acquired a deep knowledge of the Russian way of life and doing things, something he is keen to share with all visitors.

Travel

Weekend breaks for families Facilities at Bogdarnya are extensive enough to offer a huge variety of activities and programmes for groups and individuals, yet all programmes can be tailor-made to suit the unique demands of the individual or group.

Families may wish to go kayaking together for example, or parents may wish to let the children join a supervised group of other children whilst they enjoy some well-earned time off.

Finding a farm where children can play with rabbits, collect eggs from hens, brush down a pony before going on a trek, feed horses and sheep is surprisingly difficult to do in Russia.

A special ‘touch zone’ has been set up at Bogdarnya to let children do exactly this. Other organised activities for children include experiencing the wilderness of the Russian countryside on camping trips deep into the forest, going kayaking, going on a barbeque, boy-scout type camps, arts & crafts activities, horse-riding lessons, or simply learning how to find and pick mushrooms in the forest.

Families may also wish to visit Bogdarnya during a Russian festival, as all the main traditional occasions are celebrated with great style with period costumes and authentic food and entertainment.

these towns and other less known centres of Russian architectural and cultural interest.

Master Classes Visiting a farm where of meat and dairy products are produced by hand means that you are visiting a centre of knowledge that can be shared. At a master class of meat appreciation, you can learn how animals are reared, what they are fed before slaughtering, and how this alters the taste of the meat. You can also pick up important tips of how to cook your favourite meat dish, so that it not only looks good but tastes great as well. Next time you are at a steakhouse, you will be able to tell just how good the meat is, and how old it is.

Cheese is something few of us have ever thought of making ourselves, yet this is exactly what a master class on cheese production at Bogdarnya will teach you. Through learning how good cheese is made, you will be able to distinguish more easily between good, bad, and excellent cheese, as well as equip yourself with the skills to make your first cheese yourself, if you want.

Whatever you want in terms of a break or holiday, you can find it at Bogdarnya. Give us a ring and find out what we can do for you.

Tel: 89039615880

Website: www.bogdarnya.ru

Accommodation: A 20 bedroom hotel in the heart of the Bogdarnya complex will open

by October, whilst meantime offcomplex hotel accommodation is only 20 minutes away.

Lakeshore traditional Russian cottages with all modern facilities are also available

Activities:

Horse-riding and lessons Camping and fishing Kayaking ‘Animal Touch Centre’ for children Master classes in meat and cheese preparation Celebration of traditional Russian festivals By-cycling Quadracycle lessons and forest tours Excursions of horse drawn carriages Sauna and Banya Parties and weddings Corporate events (conferences, team bonding, annual events)

Individual sightseeing tours in the ‘Golden Ring’.

Bogdarnya is situated within easy striking distance of two gems of the ‘Golden Ring’ of special spiritual centres: Vladimir and Suzdal. Using Bogdarnya as a base, you can explore

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Retro

The August Coup

Remembered

John Harrison

I

n August 1991 I was living and working as a photo correspondent in Moscow for an English daily newspaper. On the morning of the 19th, having returned from a friend’s dacha, I drove straight to a government office near Kievskii Vokzal to complete the long drawn out process of procuring a Soviet driving license.

At about 9.30am I was waiting in a queue when I overheard people talking: “It’ll be the end of it, thank God. Teach those bloody rascals a lesson, get some order around here again”. “Do you know what your pension is worth now?”

I asked someone to please tell me what was happening. “Must be a foreigner, do you really think Soviet power can be stopped by your money and Jewish scheming?”

Seeing that only Swan Lake was being broadcast on the large Soviet TV at the end of the room,

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I thought it’d be a good idea to totally abandon the idea of getting my driving licence and head home to pick up my cameras. It took me an hour and a half to get across South Moscow (a long time then) because Leninsky Prospect was blocked with APCs and tanks trundling into central Moscow. At home, my Russian wife was in a panic, having been told by her parents that they were deserting Moscow for the countryside, but that she would be all right under the protection of a foreigner. Things seemed to move in slow motion, as they do in moments of great tragedy, or triumph.

But there was no time to reason anything out. I knew only that Gorbachev had been deposed and hard-liners had taken over. There was no time to work out why, how or what to do next.

My job got me into the press conference where the coup leaders declared to the world that they had imposed a state of emergency, and that President Gorbachev, on

holiday by the Black Sea, was ill and unable to return to his duties.

Despite Vice President’s Yanaev’s trembling hands, the coup seemed very real; Moscow was in shock.

The phone from London never stopped ringing, that long beep that immediately identified a call as being from abroad. The boys in the news room wanted to know where the tanks were, but I was inside the White House. My brave wife back in our flat had a map on the kitchen table with the radio on, tuned to short wave, and was informing London where the tanks were; and was surprised to be asked so many times whether people were being killed or not.

What was amazing to us was that the self-imposed commanders bothered to call a press conference at all, and that resistance was allowed to build up around the President of Russia, Boris Yeltsin, who had journeyed unhindered from his dacha to the White House that morning. It seemed that the

Retro “putchists” desire to somehow gain international approval, their very civility held them back from using force while they still had time to do so. They did not count on key army and KGB units disobeying orders.

The hard-liners also did not count on the power of raw emotion which Yeltsin and his colleagues successfully harnessed against them. Russians, particularly Muscovites and Leningradians were not yet disillusioned with democracy. Yeltsin did not have the Communist Party to contend with (unlike Gorbachev), and was the undoubted centre of reform.

Thousands of Muscovites swarmed around the White House as speaker after speaker denounced the “fascists,” and new arrivals such as Shevardnadze were greeted with tumultuous applause.

Inside the White House, amazing calm prevailed despite the panic. I remember sitting in the office of a deputy from Yaroslavl discussing the situation. She wasn’t panicking; she was rational and together. There was a tangible sense of bravado and confidence, even co-operation, an unheard of quality in Russian politics after 1991. The phones were not cut off, a Gestetner machine was churning out samizdat copies of Vecherniaia Moskva, which were

then distributed by the simple and effective method of being thrown out of the window to the crowd below. Alexander Listev (assasinated, 1995) and friends set up a miniature radio station which was broadcast by a weak shortwave radio transmitter. This was picked up by the Moscow based international news corps.

I remember how a Russian cameraman colleague of mine found himself on the White House roof, just as Yeltsin appeared to make a speech, but without a camera.

Suddenly he was thrown a VHS video camera from 50 feet below.

Amazingly, he caught it. Next to come flying through the air was a cable, an umbilical cord with the world. Sasha didn’t realise it at the time, but he broadcasting live to the world. The CNN transmissions were fed back through monitors inside the buildings. We understood that the whole world was watching.

This was a moment of history, fed by the media, and, some would say, kept going by the media.

There were, however some very serious moments. Late in the cold, drizzly evening of the 20th, a voice came over the White House tannoy system advising all women and children to leave, as apparently a squad of paratroopers had been dispatched to quell the uprising.

It genuinely appeared to all—even an atheist like me—a miracle that they didn’t actually materialise on the roof, which they probably would have done if the weather hadn’t been so bad.

Not surprisingly, Moscow was split between the good and the bad guys. Between those who supported the “putchists” and those who had supported Yeltsin.

No middle ground, and certainly no favourable media attention for the “baddies”. Looking back, there was an incredible of naiveté around. I met a couple of young people half way up a statue near Barrikadnaya Metro station, which I had scaled in order to get some good shots of the huge Russian tricolour being unfurled around one side of the White House on the 21st.

I had expensive cameras, which I couldn’t possibly have afforded myself sprouting from every pocket. One of the two students asked me who I supported, like at a football match. I said, “Yeltsin.”

He replied: “If we win, we’ll all have cameras like yours.” This just about summed it all up. The early democrats sincerely believed that everything would magically change now, that Russia’s ills would be cured by a panacea from the West.

Unfortunately that isn’t quite the way it worked out.

69

Retro

Those were the days my friend‌

1991

August 19th h Frederickovic

The building shake and rattling windows wake me and I grope for my watch. It is two am. I get up to look out over Ploschad Gagarina and see the Tamanskaya Division tank column entering Moscow.

The mechanical screeching and squealing of the tank tracks is unmistakable. I wake Sveta. Some months earlier she had stopped working for me and joined a Western TV news agency. We look on incredulously knowing that we are witnessing history.

The previous evening I had sat in the newly opened Irish Bar on Novy Arbat joking with journalists that Moscow was becoming a soft posting. Rumour had it that the bar was an afterthought of the Irish and Russian owners of the adjacent supermarket. In there you could fill your shopping basket from an array of imported goods and proceed to the check out unlike in the Russian magasins that were usually uniproduct and practiced serial queuing, first to order your purchase and receive a token, then to pay in another part of the store before returning to wait for the prized goods.

Supposedly, the Russian partners were to receive their profits as produce and the bar area was to be their storeroom but common sense had prevailed and they decided to take cash instead. The result was what was to become the most successful Guinness outlet by area outside of Ireland coupled with a supermarket that would sell out as fast as the goods could be delivered.

70

The journos were speculating on what might happen in Moscow in the coming days. The situation was tense and there was evidence of a hard line faction becoming ever more reactionary to the events of recent times. The Berlin Wall had gone long ago but in January the unthinkable had occurred with the Baltic States seceding followed by serious bloodshed as the USSR tried to re-establish control. The Soviet economy was in ruins and the regular shops were becoming emptier, in stark contrast to the excesses available next door.

I paced the bedroom deciding what to do. What would happen with the business? Would we be in lockdown?

Would there be violence on the streets? Would foreigners be seen as alien agents, arrested perhaps?

The apartment phone was still working and Sveta managed to contact her news office. Yes a military coup was happening, no there were no broadcasts yet and the TV stations were blacked out, yes some major roads were being blocked and controlled by the troops but perhaps the metro would open. At seven am all was confirmed. An emergency committee comprising the head of the KGB, the interior ministry and several others with Gennady Yanayev as their nominated leader appeared on state TV to announce that Mikhail Gorbachev, Chairman of the Communist Party and President of the USSR was taken unwell whilst holidaying in the Crimea and would need to rest for the forseeable future. In response they the

Retro Committee had stepped forward to save the situation and prevent the Union slipping further out of control.

The West would not yet be awake to the events. I decided to get to my office in Paveletskaya as quickly as possible and that cycling through the backstreets would be best. The weather was pleasant and the streets were quiet until I approached Paveletskaya. There was the first evidence of Military intervention with soldiers blocking traffic trying to get onto the garden ring. In the office there was a sense of bewilderment among the employees. The reactions were varied. Some of the staff were visibly afraid and these I told to return home if they wished but they seemed to draw comfort from being together with their colleagues. The more senior staff, who by and large were card carriers, were belligerent and thankful that the government had finally come to its senses and had taken control, order would soon be restored they stated. The younger ones, they were quiet and almost resentful giving the impression that an opportunity was being denied.

I dialed the UK and muttered thanks to myself once again that we had one of the few International phone lines in Moscow and that it was still operating – although probably not for long. I woke my boss at home to brief him on the situation and to convince him to stay there and not attempt to come to Moscow.

Afterall, if things turned ugly I would need his help to get out. Next I spoke with the British Embassy. They advised that non-essential expatriates should leave the Country. Apparently the road to the International airport Sheremetyevo 2 was being controlled by the Military and a queue of foreigners and their families was already forming. Later that day the Ambassador would give a briefing for those remaining if they were able to get to the Embassy. Finally I rang my regional offices throughout the USSR to make sure our staff were safe. It appeared that the action was well and truly centred in Moscow and that the rest of the country, and the world, were removed from the immediate situation and looking on.

My driver and I now headed for the increasingly relevant Irish supermarket armed with my emergency cash fund and credit cards to buy up what food and essentials I could to enable me to keep the office

manned with key personnel. After shopping as we left the supermarket I gave him a bag of goods for him and his family. Tears welled up in his eyes – he thought I was leaving and this was my way of saying goodbye. With that misunderstanding corrected we carefully picked our way past the road blocks and interrogations to the British embassy across the river from a heavily guarded Kremlin.

Sir Roderick Braithwaite was an internationally recognized expert on the Soviet Union and a consummate Kremlinologist. His briefing was masterful. He spoke of the gravity of the situation, the characters involved, and that although the military had been mobilized his sources reported that the troops not been “whipped up” for action and so far no lethal orders had been issued. The coming days would be critical. We were warned to be extremely careful and to avoid the streets, particularly any protests.

I left my emergency contact details with the consular staff and returned to my office and settled in for a long night. Earlier in the day Boris Yeltsin had made his now famous speech after climbing on a tank outside the White House where the Russian Federation Government remained.

To the surprise of many at the time this was shown on TV. The following day the rumours grew. Large numbers of expat families were exiting Moscow in anticipation of violence. My journalist friends spoke of expected military action to remove the Russian Federation Government. That night a curfew was declared from 2200–0500 but despite this, demonstrators took to the streets in great numbers and some mobilized trolleybuses as barriers to prevent the troop carriers approaching the White House. In the ensuing chaos three protestors were killed but the resistance was successful and that night the troops were pulled back.

I later discovered some of my younger staff were involved in these demonstrations. After the troop withdrawal the rebellion quickly subsided.

In the early hours of August 22nd Gorbachev made his triumphant return to Moscow and had the plotters arrested. The Communist Party, until then the vanguard of the USSR was banned in Russia and Dherzinsky’s statue outside of the KGB headquarters in Lubyanka was pulled down. The Soviet Union’s house of cards was tumbling down and for many, including me, life would never be the same.

71

Travel

A History

Lesson

As I sit down to write, I light a candle and put on some classical music: I would like to imagine that I’m sitting in a 19-century study in an ‘usadba,’ a daughter of a Russian army commander, reading my father’s memoirs of the battles with Napoleon he has fought in.

Have you read ‘War and Peace’ by Leo Tolstoy? I have. I read it for my literature class, losing myself in the pages of ‘peace’ – the balls, the salon tea parties, the romance, the refined conversations in French, the hunt – and skipping through the pages of ‘war.’ Years later, I wish I had been a more diligent reader.

Helen Borodina

72

Last year was the 200th anniversary of the events of the great patriotic war with Napoleon. And back in 1962, to celebrate the 150th anniversary, some films, including ‘War and Peace,’ directed by Sergei Bondarchuk, were shot, and it was decided to begin holding an annual theatrical event in the field of Borodino – the site of the most famous battle of the war (Borodinskaya Bitva, or, as the French named it, la Bataille de la Moskova). Soldiers of the Soviet Army were brought to the field under an officer’s command. They all were dressed in uniforms provided by Mosfilm and other studios and theatres, and armed with wooden rifles that the kids from the audience were happy to take home as souvenirs. The event won the hearts of the public, and was continued year after year in the same fashion, growing into historical reenactments by 1982.

Napoleon started his doomed-to-fail Moscow campaign in the summer of 1812 by approaching Smolensk, ‘the key-city to Moscow,’ after being hesitant for a while, residing in Vitebsk and contemplating a peace treaty with Alexander I. Smolensk is my hometown, and I find its role in history fascinating. This is why I feel proud of the fact that for six years now the Battle of Lubino (taken from the name of a nearby village) that happened near Smolensk August 7, 1812, has been reenacted, uniting historical reconstruction clubs from all over Russia, former Soviet Union and abroad. Why is it important? Of that battle, back in 1812, it was said: ‘If it were not for Lubino,

Travel would there have been Borodino?’ Do I need to explain more?

I arrive to the site early and walk around. Men and women dressed in 1812 clothes are teaching ballroom dancing to anyone who’s willing to learn. I snap some pictures and take the road that leads to the Russian and French camps.

As I walk, I meet officers and soldiers, French ‘madams’ with children – everyone looking as if they had just stepped out of one of the Hermitage pictures painted back in the early 1800s.

In the camps, everything – the tents, the furniture, the cutlery, even, I am told, food and beverage – is just like the way it was back then. Ladies are talking, horsemen are saddling their horses, some regiments are already lining up… It all looks like a movie site, only there’s no filming crew.

As the battle begins, I join the ‘regiment’ of the press and photographers, and stand at the front line, doing my share of shooting which will not impact the outcome of the battle, but will capture the unique moments of glory. True, the scenario is the same every year, the outcome is always the same, but the battle is always different.

After the battle is over, as tradition has it, the remains of unknown soldiers that fell at Lubino on August 19, 1812 found on the site during the year (search works are held by members of special patriotic clubs) are buried with honor.

And then, there’s talk, laughter, music, fireworks and dancing in the camps. Historical reconstruction is much more than just a show. It’s a lifestyle.

Later, the soldiers, the officers, the generals of both armies and their guests are sitting at the wooden tables next to the camps. Before I know it, I’m having some great conversations.

“We hardly ever miss a battle,” my new friends tell me. Why, I ask them. A great hobby. Patriotism. Love of history. A young man from Germany says it’s the best way to meet interesting people. “Last year (the 200th anniversary), two punk rockers from Belgium followed the way of the Great Army, covering the distance between Moscow and Paris on foot, wearing 1812-styled jackets,” a finely dressed Russian officer smoking a pipe tells me. “We ran into them every battle we went to. Isn’t that fantastic?” Yes, it is. We exchange contacts and make sure we can find each other on social networks, and meet again in a matter of weeks at Borodino.

When: September 1 Where: The Borodino field near Mozhaisk (Moscow region) What time: Battle reenactment: 2 p.m-3.30 p.m.

How to get there: Unless you are driving, I recommend taking an electrichka from Belorussky vokzal, options being: Mosckva-Mozhaisk, get off at Mozhaisk and take a bus there to Muzei Borodino.

The trip will take you about 1 hour 20 minutes *The battle reenactment is the main event of the annual Den’ Borodina festival held August 31-September 8. The events of September 1 preceding the battle itself start at 11 a.m.

In any case, try to come early enough to give yourself some time to look around.

73

My Moscow

Moscow Museum of Modern Arts (ММОМА) Vasili Tsereteli, Executive Director

I

think that the museum shouldn’t be just a place to look at history of art. The Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA) – firstly is a place for experiments, a lab where artists and curators materialize their ideas. We invite the best specialists to create temporary exhibitions, they chose artworks from our archives and show their personal views on the art process, in the process creating new dialog and discourse.

74

ММОМА The field for experiments is very large – MMOMA concentrates on art of the XX – XXI centuries.

Mostly we collect Russian art of the last 20-30 years. We want to show works of Russian artists in an international context. That’s why we organize a lot of projects abroad. Until September 15 you can see two of our projects as one of the Collateral Events at the Venice Biennale. We want to change the Moscow environment by the popularization of art. I’m absolutely sure that this contributes to the development of culture, and this in turn helps to develop the country and society.

75

My Moscow

21st

September

20th

October

Anton Kuznetsov ‘Bad Print.’ Exhibition at 10 Gogolevsky Boulevard.

In his paintings, Anton Kuznetsov works with badly printed photographs.

Producing artifacts which highlight losses of information in the original picture, the artist addresses the question of the boundary of visual credibility.

MMOMA Projects at the

76

My Moscow

4th

September

6th

October

Andrei Roiter ‘Open House’.

Exhibition at 17 Ermolaevsky lane Andrei Roiter’s exposition pans out as a collage of 3D objects, photographs and video works spanning the 25-year period of work of the artist. Many new paradoxical connections are discovered in his works. The exhibition ‘spherical space’ is, as the author himself admits, a self-portrait.

V Moscow Biennale of Modern Art

77

Moscow Good Food Club

A

Moscow Good Food Club

group of 25 food enthusiasts gathered in the Night Flight restaurant in July for the inaugural meeting of the Moscow Good Food Club. Night Flight is perhaps best known for it’s club on the first floor, and few know that upstairs it houses a fine restaurant that has served as one of Moscow’s best eating places for over two decades.

Executive Chef Pierre Elofsson created a special menu for this high summer occasion based on typical Scandinavian fish, each dish accompanied by appropriate wines. The herrings, however deserved beer and a glass of specially prepared aquavit.

The primary aim of the Moscow Good Food Club is to allow the chef to be creative and go beyond the standard restaurant menu. Pierre really surprised the audience with an amazing experience of exquisite tastes accompanied by carefully selected beverages. Guests were asked to discuss a critique of the meal based on 4 criteria. Night Flight scored high due to the excellent cuisine and service:Pierre explained each dish as it was served. On his delicacy ‘Norwegian Salmon 400C.’ “I cook this for several hours according to traditional cooking methods at just 400C, the result is a melt-in-your-mouth experience of fresh salmon revealing amazing flavours that can only

melting on the tongue, it was fascinating, congratulations to the chef. There were a lot of opinions on the quality and suitability of the drinks, the service standard was satisfactory.

Overall, we rated the whole experience an 8.”

To keep guests intellectually stimulated, they were given two extremely difficult questions to mull over whilst consuming their fish and wine. Namely: What are the most significant three changes that have taken place during your time in Moscow?, and What are your favourite restaurants in Moscow? Engaging debate ensued on all the tables, raised voices and raucous laughter were occasionally heard above the sound of chinking glasses.

In answer to the first question, Doran Doeh, senior partner at SNR Denton (CIS) Limited, the spokesperson appointed for the first table announced: “There are three main changes; firstly the appearance of good eateries and wine bars, which have made a real difference to the lives of everybody at least at this table. Number two is bicycles. You can now get on one of these municipal wonders and the cars will give you a wide berth because they are terrified of the bikes. The third is Red October,” which the speaker didn’t elaborate on. As regards restaurants, Doran mentioned: Mr Lee “for their wonderful Beijing duck and the Chinese restaurant Druzhba; and naturally Chicago Prime for steaks & hamburgers.”

The menu Herring from Hallando sea buckthorn, vanilla/lime leaves and mustard herring, Wästerbotten cheese, young potatoes Norwegian Salmon 400C horseradish crème, egg yolk, pickled onions, croutons Halibut from Kattegat red beets, capers, poached egg, brown butter emulsion Variations of rhubarb

Food Quality (out of 10): Quality/suitability of the drinks: Service: General rating of the meal:

be experienced with this method of preparation.”

We asked each table to elect a spokesperson for their critique and make comments. A précis of their comments regarding their Night Flight experience follows: Ksenia Karpenko (Head Sommelier at Hotel Balschug): “I loved the first course with the nuts and the herring, I am Russian, so I love herring cooked in the old Russian way, but I have never tried this kind of fish prepared in such an interesting and tasty way. I enjoyed all the food that was served, I almost finished everything! The wine matched the food.”

Lucy Kenyon (health care professional): “we felt the food quality was 10 out of 10. There was nothing that we could have improved on. The choice, the range, the selection of the fish was just amazing. I am going to try and do that egg dish myself at home! We gave an 8 out of 10 for the quality and suitability of the drinks. For me I would have preferred a smooth sweet wine rather than a sparkling wine, to go with the desert. Service was excellent, the friendly staff were most attentive and looked after us well. We feel that the general rating of the meal as being very close to 10 out of 10.”

Anton Greiler, General Director of Julius Meinl Coffee: “we all estimated the food quality to be absolutely sensational, this is a clear 10. We have never experienced fish literally

Lucy Kenyon, spokesperson for table number two listed the coming of summer as being a tremendous event each year. “The biggest change for me since I’ve seen in Moscow is the awareness of the customer, I think we have a much more client- orientated service here now, and as Herman Ubbenjans eloquently mentioned, ‘Russia is on the threshold of being called a customer-service culture now.’”

Table two cited that “for a genuine Russian experience, a restaurant called Alabama is a clear winner, there being no tourists there, draft beer, and friendly. The police eat there, you can speak Russian, and the food quality is reasonable.” For me, Lucy continued, “there is the White Rabbit restaurant. The food quality, mixture and taste is unique, also GlavPivTorg at Lubyanka because they do game better than anywhere else. Then we had café Pushkin for its selection of wines, as far as Night Flight goes, we shall be coming back, soon. The slow cooking was great, and so was the poached egg yoke, as a sauce, unbelievable.”

All in all the Moscow Good Food Club’s first event was a memorable occasion and will be repeated allowing our readers the opportunity to experience the best that Moscow’s restaurants have to offer.

9 8 10 9

79

Food News

Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Chaîne des Rôtisseurs in Moscow saw a change in leadership as Gerhard Mitrovits said good-bye to the city after 3 years as the Bailli du Moscou and as the General Manager of the Batlschug Kempinski. His successor at Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is Lois Gilbert who, on the handover, promised to maintain the momentum gained under Mr. Mitrovit’s patronage with an increase in events for both members and guests.

The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is the world’s oldest international gastronomic society, founded in Paris in 1248 by King Louis IX and re-introduced in 1950.

It now has over 30,000 members in 80 countries and is an international society devoted to preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table and to promoting excellence in all areas of the hospitality arts.

The Moscow Good Food Club has been created with intention to hold monthly dinners of high quality in some of Moscow’s better restaurants bringing together a diverse group of expats and Russians for a pleasant evening of excellent food, appropriate beverages and scintillating company!

With such a diverse expat community, the Moscow Good Food Club will initially concentrate on the traditional foods of a specific country or region. Read the report on our inaugural event at Moscow’s famous Night Flight restaurant on pages 74-75.

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Moscow

now offers so many wonderful restaurants and great bars. Our aim is to provide you with Moscow’s most extensive listings of Restaurants and Bars.

In this issue it is an A-Z format Also Available on: –

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

Our

wonderful researchers continue to work hard to produce this list, however if your restaurant/ bar is not listed, please contact us, and you will be in the next issue.

81

Business Insights 02 Lounge

3 Tverskaya The Ritz-Carlton Moscow M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$

1-2-3 Cafe

5, Pushkinskaya Square M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

1001 night

31 kor.1, Bratislavskaya ul.

M. Maryino Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, $

11/1 Burger Bar

15/2, Lubyansky Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: American, $$

1920

10/2 str.2b,Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, $

3 Rooms

84/32 kor.1, Profsoyuznaya St. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$

32.05

3 Karetniy ryad M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $

7 sisters

18/1 Olimpiyskiy pr.

(Hotel Renessans) M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $

A&B Cafe

8, Tulskaya bol.

M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

A. F. Koni

9/1 Novaya Basmannaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Russian, European, $$

A.V.E.N.U.E.

8 km of Rublyovo-Uspenskoye Shosse,Barvikha Luxury Village M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: French,Italian,Japa nese,Russian, $$$$

Abricol

Academy

Building 2, 23 1st Shchipkovskii Per. M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Japanese, Seafood, $$

Accenti

7, Kropotkinsky per.

M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Author’s cuisine, Italian, Japanese, $$$

Acienda

39 Vavilova St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Brazilian, Spanish, Cuban, Latin American, Mexican, Portuguese, $$$

Adriatico

3, Blagoveschensky Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Africa

10, 2nd Vladimirskaya St. M. Perovo Cuisine: African, Georgian, Mediterranean, $$

Ahtuba

1a Nijegorodskaya St. M. Rimskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $

Aiko

24 Frunzenskaya Nab. (Embankment) M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Japanese, Seafood, $$$

Aist

8/1, Malaya Bronnaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$

Akademicheskiy 1 Donskaya St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

Alazani

11/15 Volochaevskaya St. M. Rimskaya Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$

Alenky Tsvetochek 6/5 Kostyakova St. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Jewish, European, $$

Allegro

Building 8, 52 Kosmodamianskaya Nab. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$$

Aloha Bar

Alrosa

AnderSon

4, 1st Kazachii Per. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$

Alter Ego

74 bld.8, Leningradsky Prospect M. Sokol Cuisine: European, Confectionery, $$

Profsoyuznaya St. 152/2 M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Russian, $$

14, Kirovogradskaya M. Yuzhnaya Cuisine: American, $$

American Bar and Grill

2 bld.1, 1st TverskayaYamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

AMG cafe dj bar

13a Vavilova St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

Amigo Migel

47 Leningradskiy prospekt M. Aeroport Cuisine: Mexican, American, $$

Amstel

2, Kievskiy vokzal square (Evropeyskiy) M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $

Amstel Bar

Ulitsa Neglinaya, 8/10 M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Spanish, $$

Academia Cafe & Pizzeria

All-Time Bar

Amsterdam

4, Ilinka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Dutch, European, $$$

ANT-25

24 Rusakovskaya St. (Holiday Inn Moscow Sokolniki ,25 floor) M. Sokolniki Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Antaliya

29/1, Proezd Dezhneva M. Otradnoye Cuisine: Turkish, $$

“Classy & relaxed café and restaurant. Excellent cuisine and extensive wine list”

Amarcord

American Bar and Grill

Chistoprudny Bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Russian, $$$

4/2 Stroileley Ul. M. Universitet Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$

66 Aviatsionnaya St. M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: European, $$ 6 Pokrovka St. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Annyushka Traktir

ANDIAMO

Alye Parusa

2, Dnepropetrovskaya ul (Yujniy) M. Yuzhnaya Cuisine: European, $

82

Ananas (Pineapple)

38 bld.1, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$

Alioli

2/1, Kamergersky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

19a bld.1, Vorontsovskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$ 11 Generala Beloborodova St. M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: Jewish, $$

Lipeckaya 7a M. Tsaritsyno Cuisine: European, Russian,Mixed, $$

7/5 bld.2, Bolshaya Dmitrovka M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Amsterdam Cafe

Andiamo

Aozora

Andiamo

Apartment

Andiamo

Apple Bar & Restaurant

10 N.Maslovka M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $ 4/2 Stroileley Ul. M. Universitet Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$ 53/6 Ostojenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Italian, $$

Andreas

Kutuzovsky Prospekt 12 M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Anfilada

Olympic Ave, 16, M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, Russian, Mixed, $$$

Angello

60-letiya Oktyabrya Prospekt 3 M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Mediterranean, Japanese, European, Italian, $$$

Anna Mons

3 Krasnokazarmennaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Fish, $$

Annenfeld

17 Uralskiy St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, East, $

Leninsky Pr 38 M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Japanese, $$$ 12/6 Savvinskiy Bol. per M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

11 Malaya Dmitrovka (Hotel Golden Apple) M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$$

Apropos

2 Frolov Per. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, European, $$$

Aquarelle

36 Krasnaya Presnya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, $

Ararat Park Hyatt

4 Neglinnaya ul., Ararat Park Khayat Moskva Hotel, 10th floor M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, $$$

Arbat

12 Plotnikov Per. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, Russian, $$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Argento

104 Profsoyuznaya ul.

M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Argo

19 Melnikova St. M. Volgogradsky Prospekt Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Georgian, Russian, $$

Argument cafe

ArtТs Palace

3, bld.4 Uspensky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Fusion, Georgian, Russian, Seafood, $$$

Aruba

4 Narodnaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Cuban, Spanish, $$$

41, Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Asakhi

Aristocrat

Asia

6 bld.2, Lokomotivny Proezd M. PetrovskoRazumovskaya Cuisine: armenian, georgian, caucasian, mexican, european, $$

Arkhitektor

20 M. Nikitskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$

118 Prospekt Mira M. Alexeyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$ Krasnogorsk district, 65/66-y km Ring Road, TVK M. Strogino Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Seafood, $$$$

Assambleya (President-hotel)

24 Bolshaya Yakimanka St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Oriental, Italian, French, $$$$

AST-Mayak

152/2 bld.2, Profsoyuznaya M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: Azeri, Fusion, $$

25/1 Bolshaya Filevskaya Street M. Bagrationovskaya Cuisine: Azeri, European, Russian, $

Art-Cafe Etre

Asteroid

Arshin Mal Alan

2/14, Lopukhinsky Pereulok M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $

10 Krylatskaya St. M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Russian, $$

AROMASS INDIAN RESTAURANT Krizhizanovskovo 20/30 M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Indian, $ www.aromass.ru +7 499 125 6276 “The most authentic and best Indian food in Moscow. Delivery service also available”

Astoria

Artefact

11 Konstantina Fedina St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

57, Trifonovskaya street M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, Russian, $

Artist Gallery

At Pirosmani’s

19, Prechistenka Street M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, Italian, Japanese, $$$

4, Novodevichiy proezd M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Artplay

Atlantic

11 bld.34, Timura Frunze M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, $

2/1 Kutuzovskii Prospekt M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

= Menu in English

Atlantis

Bakinskiy Dvorik

Barashka

Aurora

Baku

Barbados

Aurora - Restaurant Cruiser 1st Rank

Baku Patio

Balaclava Avenue, 7 M. Chertanovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$$ 12 Startovaya St. M. Medvedkovo Cuisine: European, mixed, $$$

10 Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, European, Russian, $$$

Aurora Yacht Club

Moskovksaya oblast, 6th KM from MKAD on Dmitrovskii Shosse M. Rechnoi Vokzal Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, Seafood, $$$

Avocado

12/2 Chistoprudny boulevard M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Vegetarian,European, Indian, Mexican, Japanese, $$

Azon

Korpus 1, 28 Narodnogo Opolcheniya St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, $

B-52

7 Litovskii Bulvar M. Yasenevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$

B-69

69 Vavilova St. M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$

B2

8/1 Bolshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Russian, Seafood, $$$

Baan Thai

11, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$

Baba Marta

8 Gogolevskiy bulvar M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Bulgarian, $$

Bagrationi

1/7 Spartakovskaya pl.

M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Georgian, $$$

6 Stomynka St. M. Sokolniki Cuisine: Caucasian, Seafood, $$$$

12/14 Usievicha M. Aeroport Cuisine: Azeri, European, French, Russian, $$

20/1, Petrovka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Azerbaijani, $$$ 5, Bolshoy Putinkovsky pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Indian, Spanish, Thai, $

6 Strominka M. Sokolniki Cuisine: American, Azeri, Georgian, $$

Barbontempi

Baku Patio 2

Barista Bar

10 a, Akademika Sakharova M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Azeri, Russian, European, $$

Balcon

8 Novinskiy bulvar Lotte plaza M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japaneese, $$$$

Balikoti

13/9 B. Ordynka M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$

Baltschug

1 Balchug, Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Bamboo Bar

Presnenskaya Naberezhnaya 8 M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Asian, Japanese, Chineese, $$$$

Bank

1/15 Kotelnicheskaya Embankment M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, $$

Bar 1920

10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Bar Strelka

14/5 Bersenevskaya naberejnaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

8 Nikitskiy bul.

M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$ 47 bld.2, Leningradskiy Prospect M. Aeroport Cuisine: Italian, $$

Baron Munchausen 11 Mikluho-Maklay M. Yugo-Zapadnaya Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

Barracuda Tavern 24/27 SadovayaKudrinskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$

Barry White

1/2 Glubokiy per.

M. Krasnopresnenskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Bavarius

21/10, Komsomolskiy Prospekt M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, German, $$$$

BBcafe

13 Skatertniy per.

M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Beavers

Ulitsa Lyublinskaya 171 M. Maryino Cuisine: European, $$

Bed Cafe

6 Presnenskay Val. bldg.2 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Japaneese, $$$

BLACK MARKET Usacheva 2, Bldg 1 M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: International, $$ “An inventive and ever changing menu offering International specialities and friendly service”

83

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Bedouin

57 Leninsky prospect M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: East, $

Beef Bar

Beverly Hills Diner 1, Sretenka M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: American, $$

13 Prechistinskaya Naberezhnaya, bld. 1 M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Beverly Hills Diner

Beef Reef

Novinskiy bul’var, 8 LOTTE PLAZA M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$

20, Malaya Dmitrovka M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Steakhouse, $$$

Beefbar

13 bld.1, Prechistenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, French, Asian, $$$$

Beeftro

26, Tsvetnoi Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: American, $

Beer & Loga

23 Autumn Avenue (Osenniy bulvar) Bisness Center M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, German, Japaneese, $$

Beer House

10, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, $$

Biblioteka

Blackberry cafe

8/1 Bolshoy Drovyanoy per.

M. Marksistskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

BM

Belaya Rus

14 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ul. M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Belarussian, $$

6/1 str.1, Sretenskiy bul.

M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Italian, Corean, Russian, $$

Bellagio

Bobby Dazzler

1/2, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Europeane, Russian, $$

Beloe solnce pustyni 29, Neglinnaya M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Azerbaijiani, Chinese, Uzbek, $$$

Beloye Solntse Pustyni

29 Neglinnaya Ul. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Arabic, Uzbek, Chineese, $$$

Bericony

11 bld.6, Volxonka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Georgian, European, $$$

84

Bontempi Restaurant 12 bld.1, Bersenevskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

26/1 Sretenka M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

2/15 Moroseyka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, American, $$

Belochka Bar

8A bld.1, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

BloggiBAR

Blur Cafe

Bo

7/13 Kostiansky pereulok M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, $$

Bobry & Utki

1A, Chistoprudnii Bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Italian, Thai, $

Bocconcino

7, Strastnoi Bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, Tuscany, $$$

Bochka

3 Glinishevskiy per.

M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $

Boomcafe

Booze Pub

“Charming, bright terrace restaurant. High quality Italian cuisine, extensive wine-list and professional service”

Brichmula

Cafe Bellissima

Briz (ship Alexander Blok)

Cafe Brocard

3,19 Starovagankovsky Bystreet M. Alexandrovsky Sad Cuisine: Uzbek, $$$

12a Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. (Embankment) M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$$

Bruder

46 bld.1, Butyrskaya M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Potapovsky Per 5 M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: International, $$

Brussels

Bora Bora cafe

Brussels Catering

14/3 Orehoviy bul.

M. Domodedovskaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, $

Bora-Bora Grill

1 Semyonovskaya square M. Semyonovskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$

Bosco Bar

19, Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, $

Bosco Café

3, Red Square M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Bosfor

47/23 Stary Arbat St. (Old Arbat St.) M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Turkish, $$

BottleBar.ru

2 Pyatnitskiy per.

M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Thai, Asian, $

2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, $$$

Bouillabaisse

Bolshoi

Bread and wine

3/6 bld.2, Petrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: French, Russian, $$$$

8, 1st Frunzenskaya M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$$

Bontempi bar

Bookafe

12 Preobrajenskaya sq.

M. Preobrazhenskaya Ploshchad Cuisine: European, $

CAFE FRESCO

4/4 bld.1, Yakimanskaya Nabereznaya M. Polyanka Cuisine: International, $$$

10, Akademika Sakharova Prospect M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

2/12 Kozitsky Maly pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Austrian, German, $$

8 Mosfilmovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Bon

37, Leninskyi bulvar M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Seafood, $$$ 27 Bol. Polyanka Ul. M. Polyanka Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

10/12 Timiryazevskaya M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Belgian, $$$ 17/1 Myasnitskaya St. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, German, Russian, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$

Bublik

24, Tverskoi Boulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, – onfectionery, $

Buffet

14/34 Maly Afanasyevsky per., bldg.2 M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$$

Bulka

9, Krymski Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Vegetarian, Bakery, $

Bungalow Bar

6/1 Zemlyanoi Val M. Kurskaya Cuisine: African, $$$

Cafe

22в Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Cafe Ararat

4 Neglinnaya M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Armenian, $$

23 Olhovskaya St. (Hotel Mandarin Moscow) M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$ 36/1 Bol. Novodmitrovskaya St. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: European, $

Cafe De Fauchon

7 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya St., delicatessen Fauchon, 2nd floor M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, French, Seafood, $$$

Cafe Dioskuriya

5 Nikitsky Bulvar M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, $$

Cafe Fresh

2/38 Dobroslobodskaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, Seafood, $$

Cafe Gotty

24 Tverskaya St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Cafe Loft

25 Nikolskaya, shopping center УNautilus, 6th floor M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, French, $$$

Cafe Manon

2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Asian, $$$

Cafe Margarita

28, Malaya Bronnaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

Cafe Pushkin

26a, Tverskoi Bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Cafe Swiss

25/6 Kosmodamianskaya nab.

M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Rusian, Swiss, $

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Calvados

Castle Rose

Cantinetta Antinori

CDL Club & Restaurant

23 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $$$$ 20, Denezhny Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Italian, tuscan, $$$$

Cappuccino Express 26 Bolshaya Polyanka St. M. Polyanka Cuisine: Italian, $$

Capri

7 Academika Sakharova M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$$

Carabas

18, Lva Tolstogo M. Park Kultury Cuisine: French, $$$

Caribe cafe club

18/18 Pokrovka St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Mexican, Brazilian, European, Italian, Cuban, Latin American, $$

Carre Blanc

19/2, Seleznevskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: French, $$$$

Casa Agave

Bolshoy Cherkasskiy Per.17 M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Mexican , $$

Casa Bella

10/1 1905 goda St. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Russian, Italian, $$

50, Povarskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Russian, Italian, $$$$

Central Park Cafe

14A, Prospekt Vernadskogo M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: American, $

Central Park Cafe

14a Prospect Vernadskogo M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: American, Italian, $$

Chaika

26, Tverskoi Bulvar M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Castle Grill Bar

4 Komsomolskiy Pr. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Castle Knight

58 Bol.Nikitskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

China Club

21, Krasina M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Author, Pan-Asian, $$$

China Town

25/12 Lubyanka Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Chinese, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$

22 Narodnaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $

Multiple Cuisine: Uzbek, East, $

Chaikhona є1

4 Lodochnaya St. M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Mediterranean, $$

Chalet

Chateau de Fleurs

Casta Diva

Strastnoy Blvd. 8a M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, $$$

Chaikhana Kishmish

Casa di Famiglia

MKAD 65 km (Crocus City Moll) M. Myakinino Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$$$

Chicago Prime: Steakhouse & Bar

Chito Grito

29 Pr. Vernadskogo St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Casa Mia

Building 1, 19 Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$$

7, Marksistskaya M. Marksistskaya Cuisine: French, Georgian, International, Italian, Mediterranean, $$$$

7б Elektrolitny proezd M. Nagornaya Cuisine: European, French, Italian, Swiss, $$

7/18 Metallurgov St. M. Perovo Cuisine: Italian, $$

Chesterfield

29 bld.3, Lomonosovsky Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, $$$$

Che

10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Latin American, $$

Chekhonte

11 Trubnikovsky pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Geogian, $$

Chito Grito

Chocolate

Correa’s

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$

Correa’s

32, Bolshaya Gruzniskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Corsa

78 Mira Prospect M. Rizhskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Cosmos Planet

The Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Costa Coffee

Courschevel

2g Minskaya M. Park Pobedy Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Cipollino

7 Soimonovskiy prospekt, building 1 M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

City Club International

23a Taras Shevchenko Embankment M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: International, $$

Cofelavka

5, Zabelina M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: – onfectionary, $

9, Chistoprudnii bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$

= Menu in English

23\14, Bolshaya Nikitskaya St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Cicila

Chemodan

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $$

Conversation Cafe

Multiple location Cuisine: Coffee, European, $

Coffee Mania

Cherdak

163a Dmitrovskoe Shosse M. Altufyevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$

22, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$ Gogol Boulevard, Bldg 25, M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Comedy Cafe

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$

Coffee piu

Coffee-house Landrin 9-4 Suschevskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: European, French, Russian, $

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Panasian, French, $$$$

Courvoisier

Malaya Sukharevskaya Sq. Bldg.8 M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Coyote Ugly

6/3 bld.3, Kuznetskiy Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Coctails, $$

Crab House

6 Tverskaya Ul. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, Mediterranean, Seafood, $$$

Crazy Hunter

8 Dovatora St. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Cup&cake

10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

Da Cicco

13/12 Profsoyuznaya M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Dacha na Pokrovke 18/4 bld.16, Pokrovsky Bulevard M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Darbars

38 Leninsky Pr. 16 Fl Hotel Sputnik M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Indian, $$$

Darling, I’ll call you back ..

7, Bolshoy Strochenovsky M. Serpukhovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Das Kapital

Building 1, 6/9/20 Rozhdestvenka St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, German, $$

De Marco

Multiple Cuisine: European, International, Seafood, $$$

Ded Pihto

37/3 Myasnitskaya ulica M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

DeFAQto

30/2 str.1, Bol.Lubyanka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: American, European, Indian, $$$

Denis Simachev

12 Stoleshnikov Per. Bldg.2 M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$

Devi Cafe

Miklukho-Maklaya st., 21a M. Belyayevo Cuisine: Indian, $$

Dim Sum

3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

Dioskuria

2, Merzlyakovsky Pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $

Divas

10 Strastnoy Boulevard, Building 2 M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, French, Russian, International, $$

85

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Dodo

21/2 Petrovka M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Dolls

23b Krasnaya Presnya, Building 1 M. Krasnopresnenskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Seafood, $$$$

Dom Karlo

6 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Don Ivan

10 Yaroslavskoe shosse M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, Italian, $$

Don Macaron

53, Lusinovskaya M. Serpukhovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Don Pedro

9 Spiridonievsky lane M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$$

Don’t Tell Mama

5, Putnikovskiy bol. per M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Donna Klara

21/13, Malaya Bronnaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Donna Margarita

2 bld.1, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Home, Italian, $$$

Doolin house

20 Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, $

Dorian Gray

6/1 Kadashevskaya nab.

M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Doucet X.O.

31 Novinsky boulevard, Trading Center ТNovinskyТ M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

Drevny Kitai

5/6 bld.4, Kamergersky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Chinese, $$

86

Druzhba

4, Novoslobodskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

Due Soldo

33/4 Narodnogo opolcheniya M. Oktyabrskoye Pole Cuisine: European, Italian, $

Dukhan Alaverdy

23-25/2 Gruzinsky Val. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Duma

11 bld 3b, Mokhovaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $$

Durdin

Multiple Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, Russian, $$

Dzhagannat

11, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Indian, $$

Eat & Talk

7 Mohovaya St. M. Borovitskaya Cuisine: European, $

Ecle

5 Oktyabrskaya St. M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

El gauchito

48, Kutuzovskiy pr.

M. Slavyansky Bulvar, $$$

Elky-Palki

Multiple Cuisine: Russian, $

Emporio Armani Caffe

3, Red Square M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Esperanto Lounge Bar

41a Vyatskaya ul.

M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: European, $

Est-Caffe

40 Pokrovka St. M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $

Etaj

bld. 1, 14 Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Etaj

Flei

Galereya

Etaj

FM Cafe

Gallery

9/28 Pyatnitskaya M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$ 89 Dmitrovskoye shosse, Trading Center ТXLТ M. PetrovskoRazumovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Etaj

2aya - Brestskaya 52/1 M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Eva

31 Marshala Rokossovskogo bulvar M. Ulitsa Podbelskogo Cuisine: European, Russian, Medeterian, Italian, French, Japanese, $

Evoo

8 bld.2, Lyalin Pereulok M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Farm products, Home, $$ 11 Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Europeane, $$

Focaccia

3 Kozitsky per.

M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Indian, $$

Fonda

2 str.90 Ugreshskaya St. M. Dubrovka Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Free Bar

21-23 bld.1, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Tex-mex, $$$

15, Kosygina (Korston hotel) M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Free Bar People

Ex Libris

6 str.1 Bobrov per.

M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

3 Smolenskaya Pl. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, $$$

Extra Lounge

French cheese hole

26/1 Trubnaya St. M. Trubnaya Cuisine: European, $

French Cafe

15, Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, $$$

15-17 Bolshoi Cherkasskii Per. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: French, $$$

Farsi

28/6 bld.3, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: American, $

2/1 Kutuzovskiy prospect M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Iranian, $$$

Favorite Pub

24, Spiridonovka M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: American, $$$

Filini Bar & Restaurant

26, 3 ulica Yamskogo polya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Five Spices

3/18, Sivtsev Vrazhek Pereulok M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Indian, Thai, $$

Flat Iron Bar & Roadhouse

7,Voznesenskiy per.

M. Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Cuisine: American, Russian, Mexican, $$$

Frendys

Friends Forever 25, Nikolskaya St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: American, Italian, $$

Friends Forever 18, Kozijinsky per.

M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, Italian, $$

Fusion Plaza

12, Krasnopresnenskaya nab.

M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: European, Italian,Indian , $$$

G Graf

8, 4th Dobryninsky Pereulok M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$$$

27 Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$$ 27, Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Asian, European, Italian, Russian, French, Japanese, $$$

Gandhara

15 bldg.7, Rochdelskaya M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Pakistani, $$$

Gayane’s

1/4 bld.2, Smolensky Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Armenian, $$

Genatsvale

11 bld.2, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Genatsvale

12/1, Ostozhenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Giardino di pino

30/1 str.1 Obrucheva St. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Gin-no Taki

6 Tverskaya St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Ginkgo by Seiji

3 Tverskaya, The Ritz-Carlton M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, $$$$

Gino Taki

6 Tverskaya Ul. Bldg.1 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

Gino Taki

58 Bol. Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

Giovedi Cafe

26, Ozerkovskaya Nabereznaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Godunov

5/1, Teatralnaya Square M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Gogol-Mogol

Happiness

Golicin

Harbin

6 Gagarinsky Per. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$ bld. 4, 15 Staraya Basmannaya M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Russian, $$

Good Beef

15-17 bld1, Bolshoi Cherkassky Pereulok M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Steaks, $$

Goodman

57 Leninskii Prospekt M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $$$$

3, Kamergersky pereulok M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Confectionery, $$ 5 bld.1, Prospekt Mira M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Harbin

5, Balchug M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: Asian, european, russian trend, $$$

Grand Cru

8 bld.1, Presnenskaya Nabereznaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$

Greenwich Pub

52/5, Kosmodamianskaya Nabereznaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Pub Food, $$

Gusyatnikoff

2a Aleksandra Soljenicina St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Hachapuri

2/1 Shluzovaya Nab., bld. 7 M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Hachapuri

10 Bolshoy Gnezdnikovskiy Per. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $

Hachapuri

7 Ukrainskiy Bul. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Hamon and Wine 4, Sytinsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Spanish, $$

Happiness

5, Bolshoi Putinkovsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, – onfectionery, $$

4B bld.4, Kozlovskiy Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Italian, French, $$$

Il Capriccio

Building 4, 92 Lobachevskogo St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Italian, $$$

66, Niznyaia Pervomaiskaya M. Pervomaiskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$

IL Forno

Hard Rock Cafe

IL Forno

44, Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Help Bar

GQ Bar

IL Camino

27 bld1, Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, Tex-mex, $$

Hiro

bld. 32, 31 Dolgorukovskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Thai, $$

Hudson bar

10, Butirsky Val M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$

Hugo

39, Bolshaya Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: French, $$$

Hunter

Golovinskoe shosse 1a M. Vodny Stadion Cuisine: European, $$

HuntsmanТs House and Safari Lodge 32 Pokrovka M. Kurskaya Cuisine: German, $$$

Hyppocratus

2-3 Bolshaya Pirogovskaya M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: French, Russian, $

I Like Bar

21, Shukhova St. M. Shabolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Ichiban Boshi

Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

= Menu in English

3/14 Ostojenka ul.

M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

IST Buffet

16 Novoslobodskaya Ul. M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Asian, $$

Jourbon

81, Vavilova Street M. Universitet Cuisine: International, $$$

Ju-Ju

15, Smolenskiy Boulevard M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Home, draw-heavy oven, $$$

Jukovka

8/10 Neglinnaya ul.

M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, $$

41/1 Marshala Jukova pr.

M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, Italian, European, $$$

IL Kamino

Kabanchik

4 Bld.4, Bolshoi Kozlovsky Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Swiss, $$$

Il Patio

Multiple Cuisine: Italian, $$

Illarion

5 Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: Georgian, $

Illarion

20/2 Pyatnickaya ul.

M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $

Illarion

119 Mira prospect, pav. 67 VVC M. Botanichesky Sad Cuisine: Georgian, $

Indabar

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Uzbek, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, $

Insolito

7/5, Pushechnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, $$

27 Krasina St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Georgian, European, $

Kabinet

Building 4, 15 Malaya Kaluzskaya M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Kalina Cafe

17 Prechistenskaya Nab. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, Russian, $$

Kalinka

Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Kamchatka

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, Russian, $

Kampus

Multiple Cuisine: European, East, $$

Kapri

Multiple Cuisine: Uzbek, $$

7 Saharova Pr. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Iskra Cafe-bar

Karaoke Boom

Inzhir

36 Bol.Novodmitrievskaya M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Isola

23 A Tarasa Shevhenko Emb., Bashnya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

46 Novoslobodskaya M. Mendeleyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, Russian, $$$

Kare

42 str.1 Dmitriya Ulyanova St. M. Akademicheskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Karetny Dvor

52/1, Povarskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Azeri, Caucasian, Georgian, $

Karma Bar

3 Pushechnaya St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

Kasbar

Building 5, 3 Turchaninov Per. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Arabic, European, French, International, Japanese, Seafood, $$

Katie O Shea’s

Groholsky Per 25, Bldg 5 M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Irish, $$

Kavkazskaya Plennitsa

36, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Kebab City

5 Kamergersky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$

Ketama Bar

5/6 str.5 Bolshaya Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Moroccan, $$

Khajuraho

14, Shmitovsky Pereulok M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Indian, $

Khinkalnaya

15, Neglinnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Khinkalnaya

71, Bolshaya Ordinka M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Khinkalnaya

11, Trubnikovsky Pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Gerogian, $$

Khlestakov-Traktir

Build.1, 9 3rd Frunzenskaya St. M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, Russian, $$

Khorosho Sidim

17 bld.1, Pokrovka M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Georgian, $$

87

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Khram Drakona

37 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Chinese, $$

Kioto

55 bld 1, Mitinskaya M. Mitino Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $$

Kish-Mish

28, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Uzbek, $$

Kitaisky Kvartal

12 bldg.1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

Kitaisky Letchik Jao Da 25, Lubyansky Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Asian, Russian, $$$

Kitchenette

Presnenskaya Nab., 2, Afimall City , 5th floor Metro Vystavochnaya, M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Brasserie, $$

Kitchenette

Kamergersky Per.6 M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Brasserie, $$

Kitezh

23/10 Petrovka St. M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Kleopatra

2a 1905 Goda Ul., Bldg. 2 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: International, $$$

Knyaz Bagration

Konigs Platz

1a str.2 Kozitskiy per.

M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, German, $$

Koonjoot

36a Berejkovskaya nab.

M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Eastern, $$

Krambambula

352 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: Belarussian, $$

Krick

16, Strastnoi Bulvar M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

Kruazh

4, Prechistenka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Kruzhka

Multiple M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: European, $

Kruzhka

15 Nikolskaya ulitsa M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: Beer Bar, $$

Kuhmeister

Build.1, 47 Piatnitskaia M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, $$

Kult

5 Yauzskaya emb.

M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Spanish, $$$$

58 Pluscgikha M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

Kuznetsky Most 20

Kogo Fragola

Kvas

12a Suzdalskaya St. M. Novogireyevo Cuisine: European, Japanese, $

Kolbassoff

Multiple M. Oktyabrskoye Pole Cuisine: Russian, $$

Kolkhi

1/1 Leningradsky Pr. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Komi

62 Volokolamskoe shosse M. Sokol Cuisine: Russian, $$

88

20, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $

20 SadovayaChernogryazskaya St. M. Kurskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

La Bottega

5B, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

La Bottega Siciliana 2, Okhotny Ryad M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Italian, $$

La Cantina

5, Tverskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Mexican, American, $$

La Delizia

Le Gateau

La Gourmet

Le Pain Quotidien

56a Sevastopolskiy prospect M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Caucasian, $$$ 1/3 Bolshaya Polyanka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, $$$

La Luna

69 Sadovnichevskaya nab.

M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, International, Japanese, $$

La Mancha

12a Kravchenko ul.

M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: European, Spanish, $$

La Maree

201 Zhukovka, Odintsovsky District M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

La Maree

24/27, SadovayaSamotechnaya M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: European, French, $$ Multiple outlets Cuisine: Bakery, $

Lemonade

7 Kievskaya St. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Leningrad

21/40 Kalanchevskaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Les

18/1 Olympiysky Prospekt M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Italian, $$

Latuk

Lex – lubCafe

14/6, Bolshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Lazzetti

4 Nogorniy bul.

M. Nagornaya Cuisine: Italian, editerranean, $

Le Gateau

23, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

Le Gateau

2 bld.1, Paveletskaya Square M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, French, $

Lisya Nora

2 Dayev Per. M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Little Japan

12a, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Look In!

33 str.1 Povarskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, $

Lawson’s Bar

Korpus 1, 7 Lomonosovskii Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, German, Vegetarian, $$

Les Menus Par Pierre Gagnaire

La Stazione

7 Tsvetnoi Bul. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Armenian, $$$

Linderhof

Lobby Bar

8/2 Novinskiy bulvar M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: French, $$$$

Lavash

4 Komsomolskii Prospekt M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

10/7, Rozdestvensky Boulevard M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Coffee, European, $

Malaya Gruzinskaya ul., 23 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

1/15, Yauzskaya M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: vegetarian, $$$

Limonchello

Letto Club

2 kor.2 Balaklavskiy Pr. ( Aridan) M. Chertanovskaya Cuisine: American, European, Caucasian, $

28 Tverskaya St. (Mariott Grand Hotel) M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $ 9 Bolshaya Dmitrovka St. M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Los Bandidos

7 Bolshaya Ordynka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Seafood, Spanish, Vegetarian, $$$$

Louisiana Steak House

30 Pyatnitskaya, bldg.4 M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Luce

20 Fr. Engelsa M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, $$

21, 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$

Liga Pap

Luch

Light House

Luciano

Life Pub

24, Bolshaya Lubyanskaya M. Sretensky Bulvar Cuisine: European, Italian, Spanish, $$ 7 kor.1 Michurinskiy pr.

M. Universitet Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Lilit

2 Ohotniy Ryad St. (Moscow Hotel) M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $

LiLu

Sireneviy bulvar 25a M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Caucasian,European, Russian , $$

27 bld.1, Bolshaya Pirogovskaya M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Coctails, $$ 3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Italian, Author’s, $$

Ludi kak ludi

1/4, Solyansky Tupic M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Confectionary, $

Ludvig

3/1 Marshala Vasilevskogo St. M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: Czech, European, German, Russian, $$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Lyustra

Maxim bar

Mr. Lee

LТAlbero

Maxima Pizza

Muchachos

11/1, Vorotnikovy Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, International, $$ Delegatskaya Str., 7 M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

LТAltro Bosco Café 10 Petrovka St. M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Macaroni

62 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya Ul. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Madam Boulange

15, Tsvetnoy Bulvar M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: European, $$$ 78, Leningradsky Pr. M. Sokol Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $

Mayak

19/3, Bolshaya Nikitskaya M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Mayashi

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $

12, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Confectionery, French, $

McDonaldТs

Madam Galife

8/2 Novinskiy bulvar M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$

26/1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Georgian, European, $$

Maestro de Oliva Mega moll-2 M. Rechnoi Vokzal Cuisine: Spanish, $$

Maharaja

2/1 Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Indian, $$

Maison Elitaire

1 A, 37/43 Bolshaya Pirogovskaya St. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: French, Mediterranean, $$$

Mandarin

2 Mal. Cherkasskiy Per. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Pan Asian, $

Mario

17 Klimashkina Ul. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Market

18 bld.1, SadovayaSamotechnaya M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Seafood, Asian, Chineese, $$$

Marocana

1/15, Kotelnicheskaya Nabereznaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Moroccan, $

Martinez bar

1, Sretenka M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

= Menu in English

Multiple Cuisine: American, $

Megu

Merkato

9, Krymskii Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Mestiere

38, Leninsky Prospect M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Milk and Honey 38, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$$

MinSelHoz

5, Petrovka M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Home, $

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Panasian, Author’s, $$$

Noev Kovcheg

Old Batum

7, Academika Bochvara St., bld.1 M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: Fusion, $$

9 Maly Ivanovsky pereulok M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

Old Berlin

Muzey

Nostalgie

Old Havana

52 str.7 Kosmodimianskaya nab.

M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Austrian, $$$

Myasnoi club

19 bld.1, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Creative, Meat, $$$

Myasnoy Club

19 str.1 Kuznetskiy Most St. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$$$

N Cafe

87/89 Leninskiy Pr. M. Universitet Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, $$

Na Melnitse

24, Sadovaya-Spasskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Nabi

12A, Chistoprudny Boulevard M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, $$$

Novoi

25 Universitetskii Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: Uzbek, $$

NYM yoga

4/5, Plotnikov Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, $

O2 Lounge

3, Tverskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: International, $$$

Oblaka

48 Kutuzovskiy pr.

M. Slavyansky Bulvar Cuisine: European, $$$$

Oblomov

13, Prechistenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Asian, $$$

5, Monetchikovskyi 1-iy Pereulok M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $$$$

Navarro’s Bar & Grill

Octyabr

23, Shmitovskiy Proezd M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, Latin American, $$

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Japanese, European, $

NIGHT FLIGHT

1, Kaluzskaya Square M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: French, Italian, $$

17 Tverskaya St +7 495 629 4165 www.nightflight.ru

Modus

“Superb food at sensible prices prepared by excellent chefs with friendly, efficient service”

vl.4, 1 Truzjennikov per.

M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$$

Neolit (Kristina)

1a, Square of Europe M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $

9/1 Altayskaya St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Azerbaijani, Russian, European, French, Caucasian, $$

More vnutri

News&More

7, Pesochnaya alleya, Park Sokolniki M. Sokolniki Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, $$

B.Dmitrovskaya 20/1 M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Japaneese, $$$$

Komsomolsky Pr 28 M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Mexican, $

Mio DJ Cafe

Moo-Moo

Nobu

11 Novinskiy bul.

M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, American, $$

Ogonek

5/2, Potapovsky Pereulok M. Sretensky Bulvar Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

Ogorod

30/2 Prospekt Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$

25 Arbat St. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: German, $$ Talalihina St. 28/1 M. Volgogradsky Prospekt Cuisine: Cuban, $$

Old Man Muller

Multiple Cuisine: German, $$$

Old School Pub

15, Bol. Cherkasskiy M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Olimp

24 Luznetskaya Embankment M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Russian, $$

Oliva

3/5, Smolensky Boulevard M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Middle Eastern, $$

Olivetta

20 Mal. Dmitrovka St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Olympos

13 Akademika Korolyova St. M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, $$

Om Cafe

15/1 Novy Arbat Ul. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$

Onegin

12/2 Prechistenka St. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Orange CowТs House

18 Pavlovskaya St. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Oriental Tale

22 D Frunzenskaya Embankment M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Azeri, Russian, $

Osteria Da Cicco 3, Banniy Pereulok M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $$

89

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants OSTERIA DELLA PIAZZA BIANCA Lesnaya street 5a M. Belarusskaya Cuisine: Italian $$$$ Typical Italian traditions for food and hospitality. Food care is the most important aspect, with freshness and simplicity as the main characteristics. Feel and breath Italian culture and true Italian cuisine.

Osteria Montiroli

Pancho Villa

Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 60 M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

52, Bolshaya Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Mexican, $$

Osteria Montiroli

Pane & Olio Pizzeria

Pasta Mama

Pinocchio

Pattaiya

Pizza Amore

12/9, Spiridonevsky Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$ 14, Bol. Sukharevskaya Square M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Thai, Chineese, $$

Pavilion

7 bld.1, Bolshoy Patriarshiy Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Pechki-Lavochki

Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 60 M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

38 Bldg 1. Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Italian, $$$

10 Nizhnyaya Radishchevskaya Street M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Osteria nel Parco

Pane & Olio Trattoria

Peking Duck

9, Krymskiy Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

22, Timura Frunze M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Osteria Numero Uno

Panorama

2, Tsvetnoy Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$

Ostozhye

40/1 Ostojenka ul.

M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Otkrity Mir

18, Pavlovskaya M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Indian, $

Oсakbasi

10 str.2 Kozjevnicheskaya St. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Turkish, East, $$

Pacha

4 Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: East, European, Caucasus, $$$

Pachito Bar

10, Nikolskaya street M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, $$

Palati Nu Cafe

11/13 str. 1 Kozjevnicheskaya St. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Palazzo Ducale

3 Tverskoy Boulevard M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Paluba

8 Berezhkovskaya nab.

M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, Turkish, $$$

90

24 Tverskaya St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Vegetarian, $$$

5 Smolenskaya St. (Hotel Golden Ring,2st floor) M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

Peperoni

Papa JoeТs

Pepper

Building 26, 1A Nikoloyamskaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: American, Latin American, Mexican, $$

Papa JohnТs

Multiple Cuisine: American, $

Papa’s place

22, Myasnitskaya street M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, Italian, $$

Paparazzi

3 Pyatnitskaya St. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, American, $$

Paper Moon

Build. 1, 17 Petrovka St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, Vegetarian, $$$

Paradise

2a Nagornoe Shosse M. Planernaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Parisienne

31/9, Leningradsky Pr. M. Dinamo Cuisine: French, European, $$$$

23 A Naberejnaya Trasa Shevhenko M. Mezhdunarodnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$ 43 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Italian, $

Pizza Express

Porter House

20 Arkhitektora Vlasova St. M. Novye Cheryomushki Cuisine: European, $$$

Porto Chervo

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Porto Maltese

3 Varvarka Ul. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$

17 Tverskaya St. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Porto Maltese

Pizza Hut

17 Tsvetnoy Bulvar M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: American, Italian, $$$

Pizzeria il Pomodoro

54 bld.2, Sadovnicheskaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

Planet Sushi

Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

21 Pravda St. M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

Porto Maltese

11 Leninsky Prospect St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

Porto Maltese

31 A Leningradsky Prospect St. M. Dinamo Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

POLO CLUB

17, Petrovka M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

11/12, Petrovka M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

9 1st Proezd Perovo Pole M. Perovo Cuisine: European, Italian, $

“Polo Club, one of the best hotel restaurants in town serving quality steaks and seafood”

Peshi

10 Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$

Petrovich

24/3, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Russian, $$

Piccolino

11 1st Kolobovsky Pereulok M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Pink Cadillac

4-6, Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ulitsa M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: American, $$

Pino-Pizza

73 Volgogradsky Prospect M. Tekstilshchiki Cuisine: Italian, $$

Pino-Pizza

32 Perovsky St., bld. 1 M. Perovo Cuisine: Italian, $$

Pino-Pizza

23 Bolshaya Bronnaya St., bld. 1 M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Plotnikov Pub

Plotinikov pereulok 22/16 M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Pochtmeyster

47/23, Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, German, $

Pokrovskie vorota 19 Pokrovka St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Tibetan, $$$

Polyana

75 A Udalcova St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Europe, East, $$

Pomest’e

Tamanskaya 46 M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: American, Caucasian, European, French, Italian, Mediterranean, Seafood, Spanish, Vegetarian, $$$

Ponton

Berezhkovskaya Nabereznaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Porutshik Rzhevsky Build. 4, 4 Bolshoy Tolmachevsky Pereulok M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Fusion, Russian, Vegetarian, $$

Poslednyaya Kaplya 4 Strastnoi Bul., Bldg. 3 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, $$

Post Scriptum

42b Miklukho-Maklaya St. M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Praga

2/1, Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Brazilian, European, International, Japanese, Russian, $$$$

Pravda 21

21/1 Pravdy St. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $$

Prego Pizza & Pasta 6, Dolgorukovskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Presnya Cafe

7, Stolyarniy Pereulok M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Prichal

Red Point

7 Autumn Avenue (Osenny bulvar) M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, Seafood, $$

Ilyinskoe Shosse, 2km M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Uzbek, Italian, $$$

Red Sails

Prime Star

Red Square

77 bld.2, Sadovnicheskaya naberezhnaya (Aurora) M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Russian,Mixed, $$

Prince

16 Kashirskoe Shosse M. Kashirskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, Russian, $$$

Prospektbar

42 str.2a, Shepkina ul.

M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$

Radio City Bar & Grill 5, Boshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: International, $$

Ragout

16, bld.5, Olimpiisky Prospect M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$$

Ragout

69 Bolshaya-Gruzinskaya ulitsa M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Rakhat Lukum

9 Bol. Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Uzbek, $$$

66 Aviationnaya Street M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Red Lion

12 Krasnopresnenskaya Embankment M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: British, $$

Sandik

Shanti

Sanduny

Shantil

20 Rozhdestvenskii Bulvar M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Roll Hole

Romanov

6 bld.2, Bersenenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Restaurant Moschoice

15 Kosygina St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $

Revolutsiya

Richard Lion Heart

29 Michurinsky Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European,$$$

Rio-Grande

16 Krasnopresnenskaya Emb. M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Brazilian, European, $$$$

River Side

10 Mantulinskaya St. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Chineese, Japaneese, International, $$$

Riverside cafe

29, Serebryanicheskaya Nabereznaya M. Kurskaya Cuisine: european, $$

= Menu in English

57, Bolshaya Gruzinskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Sharabara

29/3 Lomonosovskiy pr.

M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Eastern, European, $$

Roni

Savoy

Shashlichnaya #1

20/1, Petrovka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Asian grill, $$$

Rosemary

Royal Family

10/2, Tryokhprudny Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Seafood, European, $$$

14 str.4, Neglinnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Chinese, Russian, Uzbek, $$

2/1 Myasnitsky Proyesd M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Vietnamese, $$$

27, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Gerogian, $$$

Rialto

Ribny Bazaar

Shyolkovskoe shosse 68 M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Uzbek, $$

11 str.1 Noviy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, Irland, $$

Saperavi

40, Novokuznetskaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Home, $$$ 9/11 Bolshoy Fakelny Lane M. Marksistskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

6 bld.1, Bolshoi Karetny Pereulok M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Georgian, $$

17/1 Neglinnaya ulitsa M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, Russian, European, $$

26 Nikoloyamskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: French, International, Italian, $

Rio-Rio

15 Lesnaya St. (Hotel Holiday Inn) M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Roberto

Reka

Real Food Restaurant

Red & White

Shamrock bar

3 Holodilnyy Per. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Vegetarian, $

11 Spartakovskaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$ 12, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. (Crowne Plaza Moscow World Trade Centre) M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Sakhli

4, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: French, $$$

1 Krasnaya ploschad M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Russian, $

No.19 Zeleny Prospekt M. Perovo Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, Mexican, $

Razguliay

Riviere

15 Ul. Kosygina (Hotel Orlyonok) M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Korean, $

Royale

21/1 Begovaya St. (in the Hippodrome building) M. Begovaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $

Ryba

4 Nashekinsky Per. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Seafood, $

Rybatskaya Derevnya

Savoy Hotel, 3 Rozhdestvenka M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Sayani

Ural’skaya 5 M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Scandinavia Restaurant

Scotland Yard

34 bld.1, Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Pub Food, $$$

Secret place

4 str.1 Kaloshin per.

M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $

Saigon

39 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ul.

M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Vietnamese, $

2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Ukrainian, $$$

Shokoladnica

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$

Shore House

Crocus City (66 km MKAD) M. Myakinino Cuisine: European, Japanese, Azerbaijani, Uzbek, $$$

7 Maliy Palanshevskiy Per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Skandinavian, $$ “Comfortable, calm restaurant with high quality cuisine offering many Scandinavian specialities”

28 Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, $$$$ 1 Shcholkovskoe shosse M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

17, Gogolevsky Boulevard M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, European, Japanese, Tai, $$$$

SCANDINAVIA

Rytsarsky Club

Sahara

Shatush

Shinok

7, Maly Palashevsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Swedish, $$$

All-Russia Exhibition Center, Selskohozyaistvennaya St. M. Botanichesky Sad Cuisine: Georgian, Russian, $$$

2, Ryazansky Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, $

Seiji

5/2, Komsomolsky Prospect M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$

Seven Fridays

6, Vorontsovskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, French, $$$

Shvarcvald

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$$

Sindbad

14, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Lebanese, Middle Eastern, $$

91

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Sirena

15, Bolshaya Spasskaya M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$

Sisters Grimm

11, Stoleshnikov Pereulok M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Author, European, $$

SQUARE

60 str.1 Brestkaya 1st St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, English, $

Stakan

3/3, Teatralniy pr.

M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$

SILVERS IRISH PUB 5/6, Nikitsky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Pub food, $$

Staraya Usadba

16/2 str.2 Noviy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, American, $

29a, Metallurgov ul.

M. Perovo Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Smolenskaya Ploshad 6 M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$

56 Profsoyuznaya St. M. Novye Cheryomushki Cuisine: European, $

Sky Lounge

32а Leninskii Prospekt M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

Sky Lounge

32a Leninskiy Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

13 str.2, Bol.Lubyanka M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $$

Starlite Diner

6, Vernadskogo Pr M. Universitet Cuisine: American, $$

SOHO Rooms

12/8 Bolshoi Savvinsky Nab. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: International, $$$$

Soup Cafe

62/25 1st Brestskaya, bldg.3 M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$

92

20/2 Trubnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Spanish, $$$$

1, Stroginskoe shosse M. Strogino Cuisine: European, $$ Krymsky val, 10 M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $$

Sweet Home Cafe

14/2 str.1, Myasnitskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

T-Bone

25 Khoroshevskoye Shosse M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$$

Takasa

2/1 bld.1, Kutuzovsky prospect M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

8a, Strasnow Bulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, $$ Moscow’s original diners still serving our favourite food

Starlite Diner

9a, Korovy Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Starlite Diner

16/5, Bolotnaya Square M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Starlite Diner

16 Bolshaya Sadova M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Steyks

21 Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Tapa De Comida

Tapa’rillas Tapas Bar 4/3 bld.3, Strasnoy Boulevard M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Spanish , $$

Taras Bulba

Multiple Cuisine: Ukrainian, $$

Tatler club

2/1, Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Tavern Admiral Benbau

Building A, 52 Sudostroitelnaya St. M. Kolomenskaya Cuisine: Fusion, $$

Tcaikovsky

31/4, Triumfalnaya Squqre M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$

Tel Aviv

30/1, Tsvetnoy Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Israeli, $$$

Temple Bar

STARLITE DINER

6 Mira Prospect M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

66 Leningradskiy pr.

M. Aeroport Cuisine: European, Japanese, $

Superbeach

Taisky Slon

Stariki

11, Nicolskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Tanuki

Multiple location Cuisine: American, $$

Multiple location Cuisine: american, $

Tancy

41 Gastello St. M. Sokolniki Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, $$

T.G.I. Friday’s

Starbucks

Small Pub

Smotra Bar & Restaurant

Super Mario

Pyatnitskaya Ul. 52, bldg. 2 M. Polyanka Cuisine: International, $$

SIMPLE PUB

Skazka

42/2 Bol. Polyanka M. Polyanka Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Sushi-Bar Kiot

“Traditional Irish hospitality with great pub food and excellent beers”

Sixties diners

Suliko

Take

No.20, 60-Letia Octyabrya Prospekt M. Akademicheskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Talavera

2 Europe squar (RadIsson Slavyanskaya Hotel) M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Taliesin

26 Valovaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

Multiple M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $$

Tequila Bar & Boom 4, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Mexican, $

Terrace

13 Uglichskaja St. M. Altufyevo Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Terrace

The Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, $$

Thai Elephant

25 bld,1, Horoshevskoe shosse M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Eastern, European.

Thai, $$$

Tiflis

32 bld.2, Ostozhenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Time Out Bar

5, Sadovaya ulitsa Hotel pekin M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Timeterria LiPeople 4, 2nd Shemilovsky pereulok M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Pizzeria, $

Tinkoff

11, Protochny Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, German, $$$

Tommy D Gastro Bar 1, Tretyakovsky Proyezd M. Lubyanka Cuisine: International, $$$

Tonino Lamborghini Boutique Caffe 19 bld.1, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Author’s, Home, European, Italian, $$$

Traktir Chyornaya Koshka 6 Vorontsovskaya Ul. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

Trattoria Venezia

9 bld.3, Stoleshnikov Pereulok M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Trattoria Venezia

4/3 bld.3, Strastnoi Bulevard M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Trattoria Venezia

17, Shabolovka M. Shabolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

TORRO GRILL Multiple Cuisine: European, $$$ Some of the best steaks in Moscow. Great service, great drinks and great prices

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Tri kabana

U Shveika

Trubadur

Ub cafe

34 kor.2 Ryazanskiy pr.

M. Ryazansky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

2, Barrikadnaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, Czech, European, $$

2/1 bld.1, Kutuzovsky prospect M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

40 Dolgorukovskaya St. M. Mendeleyevskaya Cuisine: European, Medeterrian, $$

Truffaldino

5/14 Porechnaya St. M. Maryino Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

20 Marksistskaya Ul., bldg 1 M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$

Tsarskaya Okhota

186a, Zhukovka village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Russian, Hunting, $$$

TsarТs Hunt

186a Zhukovka, RublyovoUspenskoye Shosse, 9 kilometers from MKAD M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Ugra

Uilliam’s

20 Mal. Bronnaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Un Sun

70, Zhukovka village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse Cuisine: Italian, Uzbek, Japanese, $$$

Vesna

19, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Italian, Mediterranean, Japanese, $$$

Veterok

24, Gorki-2 village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse Cuisine: Home cooking from Arkady Novikov, $$$

Vinil

9, Achsheulov Pereulok M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Korean, $

13 str.2 SadovayaSpasskaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$$

Unicum

Vinosyr

10 2nd TverskayaYamskaya St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: French, $$$

Usadba in Archangelskoe

Tsifry

Veranda u Dachi

40 bld.2, Pokrovka M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$

Arсhangelskoe Settlement M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Tsimmis

3, Novoslobodskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Jewish, $$$

23/10 Petrovka St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$

Tunnel

Uzbekistan

Uzbehka

6, Maly Palashevsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Vinyl

4 Pevcheskiy Per. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, $$

Vision Cocktail Hall

White Cafe

Yoko

White clouds

Yolki Palki

36/9, Novy Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$ 4, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, Mexican, $

White Rabbit

6 bld.3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Russian, Haute couture, $$$$

Who is Who (Karaoke) 15a Oruzjeyniy per.

M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

William Bass

9 Malaya Yakimanka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Wok Express

26 Bolshaya Nikitskaya St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

X.O.

25 str.1 Rusanova pr.

M. Sviblovo Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $

11 Noviy Arbat St., bld. 1 M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, J apaneese, $$$

Yan Pen

3/7, Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Korean, $$$

7 Lubyansky Proezd M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, International, Japanese, $

29/14 Neglinnaya Ul. M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Arabic, Azeri, Chinese, Uzbek, $$$

Viskonti

Yapona Mama

28a Shipilovskaya St. M. Domodedovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

4 Smolensky Bulvar.

M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Vanil

Tutto Bene

Vivace

Yar

8, Presnenskaya nab., bld.1 M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

1, Ostozhenka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, French, Japanese, $$$

Tverbul

Vanilla Sky

24 Tverskoy bul.

M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

Vapiano

Twin Pigs

19a Akademika Koroleva St. M. VDNKh Cuisine: Russian, Japanese, Philipino, $$$

Tyrandot

Build.3, 11-13 Nikolskaya St. M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

26/5, Tverskoy bulvar M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Chinese, Japanese, $$$$

26 bld.1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Italian, $$

Venice

16 Spartakovskaja Square M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Mixed, $$$

7 SadovayaSamotechnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Vizavi

6 Serpukhovskoy Val M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Vodny

Multiple M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Yujung

12, Krasnopresnenskaya Nabereznaya M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Asian, Japanese, Korean, $$

Z-Lounge

3 SadovayaSamotechnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Zafferano

8/10, Novinsky Bulevard M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$$

Zafferano

Vegas Mall, 25th km MKAD Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$

Zolotaya Vobla

9 Sushchevsky Val Ul. M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, $$

Zolotoi Drakon

15a Kalanchevskaya M. Komsomolskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$

Zolotoi Kupol

10/2, 10-Gorky township, Rublyovo-Uspenskoye Shosse M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Caucasian, $$$

32/2, Leningradsky Prospect M. Dinamo Cuisine: French, Russian, $$$$

Zolotoy Dar

Yasniy Perec

Zucker

51/23 Pervomaysky St. M. Pervomaiskaya Cuisine: Russian, International, $$

39 bld.6, Leningradskoye Shosse M. Vodny Stadion Cuisine: Italian, Uzbek, Japanese, $$$

Yasumi

Vogue Cafe

1/30, Petrovsky pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: asian, indian, vegetarian, $

7/9, Kuznetsky Most M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$

5, Soimonovskiy prospekt M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Japanese, author’s, $$$$

61a Profsoyaznaya ul.

M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

154 Profsoyuznaya St. M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$ 12/2, Bolshoy Kozikhinsky Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Moroccan, Lebanese, Syrian, Persian, Bukharan, $$$

YogaDOM

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

= Menu in English

93

Community Services Business Clubs/Associations

British Business Club President: Don Scott

Italian Business Club (ITAM) President: Giovanni Stornante

Today, the British Business Club supports more than 600 British or affiliated people and companies with regular meetings and charitable events. We have strong local contacts and help where we can, if not directly, then at least with a guiding hand to a person, organisation or ministry.

Russia continues to offer massive opportunities to British businesses, but it takes stamina to see them through. The BBC offers a small sanctuary of Britain to help in these times. www.britishclub.ru We organise social and professional events for the Italian community.

We bring Italians together, help their integration when they move to the big city, facilitate the exchange of ideas, experience and opportunities between the Italian and other business communities. Ultimately, we make Italy a little closer to Russia.

Any organisations and individual in Moscow that are either Italian or focus their business on Italy can join the club.

The Association of European Business (AEB)

Australian Business in Europe, Russia (ABIE) Managing Director and Founder: Slava Konovalov

The Irish Business Club Chairperson: Avril Conway

The ABIE has an international membership of about 1,000 drawn mostly from Australian companies with business interests in Europe and from a wide range of European companies with reciprocal interest in Australia.

ABIE hosts a range of events designed to keep members up-to-date with business, political, sports and cultural developments occurring in Australia.

It also runs a social programme to facilitate networking. www.australianbusiness.ru The members of the Irish Business Club are a mix of both Russian and Irish professional people and private individuals. It takes some time to understand the Russian culture and to make friends. Russian people are very well educated and I truly believe our role is to transfer knowledge and understanding. This is sometimes a challenge for people.

We try and help in these respects as much as we can. www.moscowirishclub.ru

AEB is an active community of about 630 members, providing a network for sharing opinion and experience. The AEB is an advocate of its members’ opinions, generated in 40 CEO: Dr. Frank Schauff industrial and cross-sectorial committees, sub- committees and working groups. We develop cooperation between Moscow and European business circles through high profile conferences, briefings, round tables and other business events. The AEB is working on improving the business and investment climate in Moscow in the interests of its member companies and promotes a favourable image of Russia abroad to improve business development conditions inside the country and attract foreign investors.

Web site: http://aebrus.ru/

94

Community Services Gyms and Fitness Clubs Private membership Do you have a favourite gym or fitness club that we have not mentioned?

Please send in your recommendations for inclusion in future editions to editor@moscowexpatlife.ru Marina Club 50-meter indoor pool with 10 tracks and 12-meter aqua-slop. Open daily: 07:00-24:00.

Address: Leningradskoye sh., 25a Metro: Voikovskaya Tel: 363-6061 Web: www.marina-club.ru

Beach Club A surprisingly beautiful white-sand beach flanks the Moscow River, furnished with lounge chairs, beach umbrellas and a well-stocked bar. Active types can rent jet skis, play volleyball and even swim.

Of course there is a place to dock your yacht.

Address: Leningradskoe Shosse 39 Metro: Vodny Stadion

Website: http://beach-club.ru Phone: 495 979 9090

Trud Part of Planeta Fitness club. 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks. Open: MonFri 08:30-22:15, Sat 08:3021:00, Sun 09:00-21:00.

Address: Varshavskoye sh., 14 Metro: Tulskaya Tel: +7 495 958-1501 Web: www.fitness.ru

Fit & Fun Address: Chistoprudny Bul 12 Str 1 Mon-Fri: 07:00-23:00 Sat-Sun: 09:00-20:00 Gym, pool, saunas, Jacuzzis, aerobics, aqua-aerobics

Marriott Hotels Group Some hotels offer discounts to expat club members, e.g. BWC

Marco Polo Hotel Health Club Address: Spiridonovsky Per 9 Daily: 12:00-24:00 Tel: +7 495 202 0381

Atlantis fitness club Mezhdunarodnaya 1, Krasnopresnenskaya Nab 12 Tel: +7 495 937 0373

Hard Candy Address: B.Kislovskiy per 9 Moscow Russia 125009

Front Desk: +7 495 933 7100 Mon - Fri: 7:00-24:00 Weekends and Holidays: 09:00-10:00

Locstream rollerdrome Address: 125a Bol. Cherkizovskaya Str. +7 495 161 8630

RollHoll Rollerdrome Address: 3 Kholodilny Ave. +7 495 954 0158

Rollerdrome (Kant) Sports Club Address: 7 Electrolitny Proezd, building 2 +7 495 317 6101

Fantasy Park Address: 100 Lyublinskaya Str. +7 495 641 3451

Adrenalin Sports and Entertainment Center Address: 1 Chermyansky Proezd +7 495 221 0105

Dr.Loder — Fitness club in Moscow Address: 103031 Moscow, Strastnoy bulvar, 10/1 Metro: Strastnoy Bulvar E-mail: strastnoy@doctor-loder.ru Tel.: +7 495 775 7474, +7 495 775 7400

Municipal Chaika Sports Complex 25-meter and 50-meter open-air pools. Two paddling pools. Tennis courts Open Mon-Sat 07:00-22:30, Sun 08:30-19:30.

Address: Turchaninov per., 1/3 Metro: Park Kultury Tel: +7 499 246 1344 Web: www.chayka-sport.ru

CSKA Sport Complex Well-established sport complex. 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks. Open daily: 07:00-23:00.

Address: Leningradsky prosp., 39, str. 9 Metro: Aeroport Tel: +7 495 613 6907 Web: www.cska.ru

Fili 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks and two paddling pools. Open daily: 07:1522:00.

Address: Bolshaya Filyovskaya ul., 18a Metro: Bagrationovskaya Tel: +7 499 148 3046

Izmailovo 50-meter indoor pool with a paddling pool and a jumping pool. Open daily: 07:00-19:45.

Address: Sirenevy bulv., 2 Metro: Cherkizovskaya Tel: +7 499 166 8945

Luzhniki Outdoor 50-meter and 25-meter pools, two 25-meter indoor pools and one 25-meter indoor children’s pool. Open Mon-Fri 07:00-22:00, Sat 07:00-18:00, Sun 07:00-15:00.

Address: Luzhnetskaya nab., 24 Metro: Sportivnaya Tel: +7 495 785 9717 Web: www.luzhniki.ru

Medvedkovo

25-meter indoor pool with 6 tracks and 16-meter indoor pool. Open daily: 07:00-22:00.

Address: Zapovednaya ul., 1 Metro: Sviblovo Tel: +7 495 4767500 Web: www.skmedvedkovo. boom.ru

Oktyabr 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks plus a paddling pool.

Open daily: 07:00-23:00.

Address: Zhivopisnaya ul., 21 Metro: Schukinskaya Tel: +7 499 728 5390 Web: www.bassein-oktyabr.ru

Olympic Village - 80 25-meter indoor pool and a paddling pool.

Open daily 07:30-22:00.

Address: Olimpiyskaya Derevnya, 2 Metro: Yugo-Zapadnaya Tel: +7 495 437 1698 Web: www.ckod80.ru

Olympic Water Sports Center Large swimming complex: Outdoor Pool “Neptun” (50-meter), House of Swimming (25-meter and 50-meter indoor pools) and Water Sports Palace (two paddling pools).

Open daily: 06:45-22:00.

Address: Ibragimova ul., 30 Metro: Semyonovskaya Tel: +7 495 369 4803

Olympiysky Two 40-meter indoor pools, 33-meter pool with springboards and 10-meter diving board.

Open: 07:00-22:45.

Address: Olympiisky prosp., 16 Metro: Prospekt Mira Tel: +7 495 786 3266 Web: www.olimpik.ru

Setun Health Complex 25-meter indoor pool with 6 tracks, teen’s 15-meter pool (6-16 years old) and a paddling pool (4-6 years old).

Open daily: 08:00-21:00.

Address: Tolbukhina ul., 10

Metro: Kuntsevskaya Tel: +7 495 444 9223 Web: www.setunsport.ru

Torpedo 25-meter pool with a paddling pool. Open: Mon-Sat 07:15-18:45, Sun 08:00-16:15.

Address: Avtozavodskaya ul., 21 Metro: Avtozavodskaya Tel: +7 495 675 0279

Ostankino 25-meter indoor pool with a paddling pool.

Open daily: 08:00-22:00.

Address: Bolshaya Marfinskaya ul., 7a Metro: PetrovskoRazumovskaya Tel: +7 495 619 9912 Web: www.sportclub-ostankino.ru

Beaches “Serebryannyi Bor” Take the trolleybus from Polezhaevskaya or Shchukinskaya Metro Stations.

“Strogino” Take the bus 357m from Strogino metro “Vodnoe Dynamo”

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Community Services List of Charities Below is an incomplete list of Charities operating in Moscow which foreigners are known to be involved with.

If you wish to list a charity in future issues, please write to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru Kidsave

Downside Up

Kidsave® is a non-profit organization working in Russia since 1999. Our programs create strong and lasting connections between children and adults, with the goal of giving orphans and young people graduating from institutions opportunities to develop the skills necessary for a successful future.

Our Programmes: ‘Teen Mother’ programme helps vulnerable young mothers and pregnant girls learn how to care for their babies, experience the joy of motherhood, and stop the dreadful cycle of ‘inherited orphan hood’.

‘Strong Shoulders’ is a social adaptation and mentoring program that works with orphans and young adults.

‘Corporate Mentoring’ is a program designed to give older children in orphanages exposure to the workplace.

You Can Help: In becoming a Kidsave Corporate Sponsor/Donor, you can give hope to orphan children and graduates and help create more favourable conditions for their future.

With your help, we can find caring mentors for forgotten and abandoned children. We can give them a ‘strong shoulder’ or a safety net to ensure that they have a resolute start of an independent life!

For additional information, please contact Alexander Mzhelsky at: a.mzhelsky@ kidsave.org or +7 (985) 970 9019

About 2,500 children with Down syndrome are born in Russia annually. In 85% of such births, parents give their children up to maternity homes, often following doctors’ advice. The abandoned children are sent to state institutions with no chance of ever leaving them. But there is an alternative! The children can live in their families and join early intervention and education programmes. They develop and learn under a guidance of special education professionals, and they can go on learning at pre-schools and schools. Children with Down syndrome, no matter how different, have a vast learning potential.

Downside Up invites you to help make life better for people with Down syndrome Elena Lubovina Downside Up 14A Parkovaya Str., Moscow, 105043 Russia Tel. +7 499 367 1000, +7 499 165 5536 lubovina@downsideup.org

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Kitezh Kitezh is a network of therapeutic communities that give children from orphanages loving foster families.

The aim is to create a developing environment for the education and care of orphans and children in crisis.

The first Kitezh village is in Kaluga Region, 300 km south west of Moscow, and the

second village, Kitezh-Orion, is located 60 km in the same direction.

Contact: Kitezh Centre representative Katya Gurkina Tel: +7 916 975 1603 kitezhcentre@yandex.ru http://www.kitezh.org/en/ index.php

Musical Experimental Theatre ‘Open Art’ Open Art was created in September 2001 for people with learning disabilities.

Open Art is based on a unique combination of different art forms and directions: • Music • Dramatic art • Choreography • Art Design • Poetry • Dramatic improvisation • Ethnic art The Musical Experimental Theatre Open Art is open for participants from Moscow and Moscow region.

Open Art has developed methods which are being used in rehabilitation centres and institutions for people with learning disabilities.

Open Art also organizes courses and seminars for specialists in Moscow.

Email: info@metopenart.com http://metopenart.com/

Diema’s Dream Diema’s Dream was established in 1998 to provide financial, medical, and educational support for

both physically and mentally disabled children in Russia.

The larger goal is to support changes in society and legislation in order to create social and medical support programs, which would allow parents to raise their children at home rather than living in institutions.

Who We Support • Charity House, a Russian non-governmental organization (NGO) in Moscow. Charity House is the first and only one of its kind in Russia. The Moscow City government considers their work with disabled orphans to be a model for orphanage reform. Unfortunately, lack of funding has made it impossible for the government to apply the Charity House standards of child care to other orphanages • Association of Down’s Syndrome (ADS) program in Moscow.

Academician Bochvar Street, 10A Moscow Russia 123098 International: 011-7-495-942-4003 sa5557@yandex.ru sergey@ddfund.ru

Moscow Animals Email: info@moscowanimals.org.

Moscow Animals – devoted to the welfare of homeless animals. To adopt a dog or cat or if you would like to help local animal shelters by making a donation or volunteering your time, please visit the Moscow Animal Website or email.

Essentialinformation info@moscowanimals.org http://moscowanimals.org/

United Way The Fund supports charities offering programs aimed to meet the social needs of the following sections of society: • children at risk • disabled (children and adults) • refugees and homeless • elderly people Mission Fostering responsible philanthropy in Russia by supporting local charity programs aimed at solving the most critical problems.

The Fund is a permanent source of financing for efficient charitable organizations. Charities

receiving funding have to demonstrate financial transparency to the highest possible degree. In turn, we guarantee to the donors full adherence by the foundation to Russian legislature and provide full financial and activity reports.

14 Nizhnyaya Str., Bldg. 1, office 5, Moscow, 125040 Tel./Fax: + 7 (495) 780-97-18 info@unitedway.ru

and hunger, and provides medical care and education for Moscow’s poor, including women, children, families, pensioners, economic migrants, and refugees. To volunteer or donate, please visit our website at www.mpcss.org. www.mpcss.org

MPC Social Services

Big Brothers Big Sisters of Russia is a part of Big Brothers Big Sisters International, one of the most efficient mentoring programs for children.

In Moscow BBBS helps children living in institutional care (orphanages) and disadvantaged children. A

MPC Social Services is one of the longest serving charitable organizations in Moscow.

It is a registered Russian charitable organization and an established 501(c)3 non-profit in the United States that addresses poverty

Big Brothers Big Sisters

volunteer becomes a Big Brother or a Big Sister to a child, visits him or her once a week for at least one year.

Studies show that children who have a mentor have higher self-esteem, are more stable emotionally, have better motivation to study and show more initiative.

Currently there are 162 matches in Moscow. http://nastavniki.org To become a volunteer leave an application http:// nastavniki.org/ru-application/ or call +7 (495) 500 40 42 Please keep in mind that you need a good knowledge of Russian to become a Big Brother or Big Sister because the children don’t speak English very well.

Emergency Phone Numbers Fire fighters 01 Police 02 Ambulance 03 Emergency Gas Service 04 Intercity phone calls 07 Information 09 Time (automatic clock) 100 Emergency rescue service 937-9911 Medical help International SOS (The Moscow Clinic, 24 hour service to its clients) +7 495 937 6477 American Medical Centers (24 hours service) +7 495 933 7700 European Medical Center (French, British and American experts) 7 495 510 54 14 International crisis Line Tel: 8 926 1133373 This is a free English-speaking telephone counseling service for expatriates people in distress.

Available 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.

In case you ever have to call the fire fighters, the police, or an ambulance, make sure that all family members can correctly pronounce

your complete address in Russian.

Post a piece of paper with your full address details and phone numbers in Russian and translation into your native language on the wall next to your phone.

Also make sure that your children know how to reach you or another adult you trust in case they get lost or have an emergency.

Note that in Russia there is difference between the police (militsiya) and the traffic police (GIBDD, formerly GAI). The police are not responsible for regulating traffic or handling car accidents, and the traffic police do not handle criminal offences that are unrelated to traffic.

Pharmacies (Apteki) Finding a pharmacy in Moscow is definitely not a problem. In fact, quite a few number of them are open 24/7. The prices vary from one pharmacy to another, but the difference is not very significant.

What to do if you lose your passport Your first step should be to contact the nearest consular department

for your country of origin. You will also have to go to a police station in order to obtain an official form confirming the loss or theft of your travel documents. We recommend, however, that you contact your embassy or consulate first, as they may be able to help non-Russian speakers with the necessary paperwork. In the case of a child’s lost passport, both parents must appear with the child.

Once you have a new passport, take it, along with your plane ticket (if you do not have a return ticket, you will have to buy one before you are issued a new visa) and the police form to the company that issued your visa support documents. If you have a copy of your lost visa, you should also provide it. If the agency refuses to help you (although it is their legal obligation to do so), then your consulate should tell you what to do.

Important: For ease of processing we recommend that the police report states that your documents were lost, not stolen.

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Essentialinformation Taxi Services in Moscow In Moscow any car is a taxi, and you will quickly notice how Muscovites get around by simply sticking out a hand and jumping into the first car that stops. If your Russian is up to the negotiations, you can try this for yourself, although you have to maintain an element of caution.

Official taxis are more expensive, but still cheap by European standards unless, of course, you’re being ripped-off. The market is increasingly competitive, and a number of wellestablished firms now run large fleets of cars with regulated fares.

Official taxis come in a variety of guises, some yellow markings and a yellow roof-light. Taximeters are not used in all cars, often the sum is defined at the order. Pre-booked transfers are the most comfortable and convenient way of getting from the airport to your final destination, and they don’t have to be expensive.

More and more companies are offering discount transfer services in Moscow. So, if you don’t want the hassle of dealing with crowded public transport after a long flight, book a car and driver to meet you at the airport and take you directly to your hotel. Your hotel will be able to give you the numbers of Englishspeaking taxi companies.

Taxi companies with operators who understand English: Bee Car +7 495 979 4810 www.bee-car.ru Moscow Taxi + 7 499 995 0654 www.taxi-in-moscow.com Taxi 956 +7 495 956 8956 www.taxi956.ru Gorodskoe Taxi +7 495 500 0500 www.500-0-500.ru Eurasia Taxi +7 495 647 1111 www.eurasiataxi.ru VIP Taxi Moscow +7 495 991 6173 www.taxi749.ru

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NewMoscowTaxi +7 495 780 6780 www.newmoscowtaxi.ru Formula Taxi +7 495 777 5777 www.formula-taxi.ru Slujba +7 495 918 0101 www.taxi918.ru

Getting to Moscow’s Airports Moscow is served by three major airports: Vnukovo, Domodedovo and Sheremetyevo. You can get a taxi (fares range between 1200 and 2300 roubles, and generally, the service is good. The operators speak English, but the drivers may not. A taxi back can also be booked, and this saves a lot of hassle and possible agro when dealing with the taxi drivers at arrivals. All three airports are now served by aeroexpress shuttle trains. The service is good but not 24 hours a day.

The three airports are: Sheremetyevo Airport http://www.svo.aero/en/ +7 495 578 6565 + 8 800 100 6565 +7 495 956 4666 for flight information Sheremetyevo has become much more accessible thanks to the opening of the Aeroexpress from Byelorusskaya Station. The Aeroexpress costs 320 roubles and they leave every half an from 5:30 to 00:30. Long term parking costs 250 roubles a day according to the airport web site. If you are getting a taxi or driving your own car there during the day it is advisable to leave a minimum of two hours to get there from the centre.

Domodedovo Airport http://www.domodedovo.ru +7 495 720 6666 for flight information Getting there: The Aeroexpress train departs from the left hand side of Paveltskaya station. Tickets which come as flimsy paper receipts with bar codes in them. Don’t lose your ticket as you

need it to get out of the station at the airport. Tickets cost from 320 roubles. The journey takes 40-50 minutes, and they run reliably and regularly, every half an hour from 6am to midnight. On the way home, this is a convenient way to beat the taxi mobs, however there is only the taxi if you arrive during the night.

Leaving your car in the long-stay car park costs 600-700 roubles a day depending on the season, although information on the airport’s site is not clear on this score.

Vnukova Airport http://www.vnukovo.ru/eng/ 8 (495) 937-55-55 Getting there: 1. By airport bus from Yugo Zapadnaya Metro. You need bus 611, 611с or 611ф, (611f ) (express) bus. You need to listen carefully to the pre-recorded stop announcements. Your stop is Airport Vnukovo. Busses run every 10 minutes or so, so to be sure you get there on time and the journey to the airport takes about 30 minutes.

You can also get a ‘marshrutka’, (mini-van taxi service) route 45 which will take you to the airport faster. Fare is 100 roubles plus 10 roubles for each piece of extra luggage.

2. From Metro Oktyabrskaya (the Circle Line) (subway) Route 705m ‘marshrutka’ runs between Metro Oktyabrskaya (Circle Line) and the Vnukovo airport.

They take 35-40 minutes, although Moscow traffic is Moscow traffic, so at peak time leave at least an hour.

Fare is 130 roubles plus another RUB 10 for every extra item of baggage.

3. By Aeroexpress Train From Metro Kievskaya (Metro) (exit to Kievsky Train Station).

Once out on the Train Station forecourt, go round the corner of the Station terminal building and a few yards down on your lefthand side you will see the entrance portico of the Vnukovo Aeroexpress Terminal. Tickets cost 320 roubles for standard fare, and can be bought on line, if you read Russian. The journey takes 40 minutes.