Discover Benelux | Restaurant of the Month | Luxembourg
R E S TA U R A N T O F T H E M O N T H , L U X E M B O U R G
Great meat – a rare treat TEXT: MARTIN PILKINGTON | PHOTOS: CAFETIN DE BUENOS AIRES
Thousands of Luxembourgers took their skills and energy to Argentina in the 19th century. With the Cafetin de Buenos Aires, one of Luxembourg City’s most mouth-wateringly enjoyable restaurants, Argentina has returned the favour. Those close links are recalled in photos that adorn the restaurant and its bar, pictures of Luxembourgers who became Argentinians interspersed with more recognizable heroes like Che Guevara and Diego Maradona. “But Luxembourg is a very cosmopolitan place, so we get people from all over eating here: English, Spanish, Norwegians... and of course ex-patriot Argentines,” says owner Stella Sonez. Fish, chicken, empanadas, pasta – the majority of Argentines have Italian roots – and
24 | Issue 11 | November 2014
salads feature on the menu, but the big draw here (unless you’re vegetarian, and even then you might be tempted) is the fabulous Argentine beef: “The quality of the beef we bring in can be seen immediately – the colour’s the first thing you notice, before you taste it. Then there’s the texture: we don’t have steak knives here, the meat is super-super tender, and served without sauce, just grilled or pan-fried like in Argentina,” says Mme Sonez. Great beef calls for fine red wine to accompany it and Argentina is not lacking there either. The Cafetin offers a carefully chosen selection of prestige bottles, working among others with the oldest (and most renowned) of Argentina’s 1,500 wine merchants. What’s not at times on the menu is as important a mark of quality as what is available: “It’s what we call a ‘carte reduite’, that is to
say there is a limited number of dishes, as we cook everything fresh just as we would in Argentina,” says Stella. “We don’t use frozen, so we can sometimes run out, or maybe not find the quality needed that day.” The recipe is working, with all 62 covers taken nearly every night – and the 70 terrace seats likewise when the weather permits. Argentina enjoys magnificent culinary resources, but it’s culturally rich too, something celebrated this November with an exhibition in Cafetin of works by internationally-known artists born there. “I let them use the restaurant so people can see Argentina is not just about cows!” says Stella. Cafetin de Buenos Aires, 18, rue des Capucins www.cafetin.lu