Welcome to Hong Kong
A Foreigner’s guide
Contents Hong Kong, An Introduction
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Helpful Hints 4 Transit 7 Walking Tours 8 Day Trips 15 Hiking 16 Worth Checking Out 18
Written and photographed by Sarah Beaudin. C’est Beau Designs © 2018
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HONG KONG, AN INTRODUCTION Hong Kong is a perfectly balanced city; it exists in a space between urban and wild, East and West, old and new. It is lively, busy, and loud. It is calm, restorative, and quiet. It is a little rough around the edges, but it is a safe and wonderful place to visit. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
Is it really China? Yes, but in the least China-y way possible. Hong Kong is a Special Administrative Region (SAR), it was ceded back to China in 1997 but it operates under it’s own laws. In mainland China they consider Hong Kong to be part of China, but many Hong Kongers see themselves as proudly independent. As a foreigner, you will find Hong Kong much more welcoming than mainland China.
Is Hong Kong an island?
Hong Kong means “Fragrant Harbour.” Sometimes, especially at night by the water, it is very... well, fragrant. Not a good fragrant.
Sort of. Hong Kong Island (the place you think of when you think of Hong Kong) is only one of the islands, there are actually 261 islands, and the Kowloon peninsula which is connected to mainland China. Hong Kong is a lot more than a city. Sure, it’s been touted as the “New York of Asia,” but really almost three-quarters of it is protected greenspace. You are never more than a half hour public transit ride away from walking through mountains.
Can I get by with English? Yes, as one of Hong Kong’s official languages you will find it relatively easy to communicate with most people in English (though taxi drivers seem to be the exception so pick up a calling card at your hotel). Signs and public transit announcements are all in English, making it easy to navigate the city. HK’s other official language is Cantonese. Sorry, the Mandarin phrases you may have learned, even Xièxiè (thank you), are not applicable here.
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Helpful Hints Air Quality
Currency
The air quality in Hong Kong is not great, and if you have any sensitivities (asthma, respiratory infections/irritations) you will definitely notice the difference. If you have an inhaler, bring it with you.
Hong Kong Dollar The exchange rate changes daily, but it works out to about $6 HKD = $1 CAD
Air quality is typically measured in PM2.5 (referring to particulate matter that has a diameter of less than 2.5 micrometers). To put the pollution rates into context:
CAD
HKD
$1
$6.09
$5
$30.46
• Hong Kong: 136 PM2.5
$10
$60.92
• Downtown Toronto: 17 PM2.5
$20
$121.85
$50
$304.62
$100
$609.24
$150
$913.86
On April 27, 2018:
You can buy yourself a fancy post-apocalyptic style mask, but if you are struggling with the air quality, I recommend finding indoor things to do. Worth noting: I found that hiking/walking in the mountains is not as strenuous as I expected in the poor air, probably because it’s outside of the city/concrete everything.
HK HACKS Do you need a power adapter? A SIM card? A Coffee? Cigarettes? Sunscreen? Ice Cream? Beer? 7-11s are peppered throughout the city, they are open late, and you can buy items with your Octopus Card.
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If you dislike doing math while you’re on vacation:
Most ATMs here accept foreign debit cards, so you don’t have to worry about bringing in a lot of cash or going to a formal currency exchange. (Though you may wish to do so to save on bank fees!) Worth Noting: The keypads on most ATMs here are set up opposite to those in North America (123 is at the bottom instead of the top.) Most places in Hong Kong accept Visa and MasterCard, though you will need cash for visits to the market.
Customs
Internet
You can bring in:
Unlike in mainland China you do not need a VPN to access internet in Hong Kong. It is easy, fast, and accessible just like at home. There is a lot of free wifi in Hong Kong, available at most cafés, all MTR stations, and public parks.
• 1L of alcohol (Of note: the fastest way to the heart of most Cirque folk is a bottle of Sortilège) • 19 cigarettes — tobacco is highly taxed in Hong Kong
Phones Electronics The standard cottage in Hong Kong is 220 volts AC, and you will need a three-pronged UK style plug.
Organize an international phone plan with your current cell provider, or pick up a SIM card when you arrive. Short-term, pre-paid plans are available at the 7-11s.
Shopping There is no sales tax in Hong Kong (except on alcohol and tobacco), but there is a charge for plastic bags. Bring a canvas bag with you every day — you never know what treasures you’ll find.
Sign Posts Food & Drink There is a wonderful blend of foreign and local cuisine here, so no matter your tastes there is something for you.
If you get a little lost, just look for the nearest sign post — they’re everywhere! Pink signs are tourist attractions and blue signs indicate nearby transportation.
Street food is big in Hong Kong, and while it may look strange it is definitely worth trying. I highly recommend the fishballs. There is no open-bottle law in Hong Kong. You can buy cider at a convenience store and stroll to the nearest park. Or buy a local craft beer in an alleyway and stroll through the city streets. 5
Smoking
Water Quality
Smoking is banned in restaurants, bars, cafés, public parks, and beaches.
Do yourself a favour and don’t drink the tap water. It’s fine for washing up and brushing your teeth, but as a rule of thumb, don’t drink tap water anywhere in China. Boiling your water is a safe option, and drinking hot or warm water is the Chinese fashion. They do not usually serve cold/ice water at restaurants.
Tipping Pay-at-front Restaurants: Don’t tip. Other Restaurants: Tips are not expected, but if you do want to treat your server be sure to tip in cash. Taxis: Don’t tip. Tour Guides: Tip $10-70 HKD.
Toilets Don’t panic, most places in HK have both western and squat toilets. Though you may want to bring some tissue with you, sometimes their isn’t any toilet paper!
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Weather Hong Kong is warm and wet. And humid. Bring an umbrella with you every day, and pack a light sweater because there is AC in every building.
Transit They drive on the left! In busy public areas there are usually reminders painted on the ground at intersections indicating which way to look for oncoming traffic.
Octopus Card Hong Kong has one of the best transit systems in the world. Simply purchase an Octopus Card (sort of like Presto in the GTA), load it up with money, and you’re good to go. Your Octopus Card is good for: • The awesomely well-organized and efficient subway, aka the MTR • The adorable skinny double-decker trams on HK Island • Public buses • Green Mini-Buses (not the red ones!) • The historic Star Ferries (the most convenient and quaint mode of transit) You can also use it to pay for goods and food at many shops, including most grocery stores, pharmacies, 7-11, and McDonalds.
Bikes Unlike most of Asia, you will not see many bicycles and scooters here. There are a lot of roads that bikes of any kind are not allowed on.
Walking Hong Kong is very pedestrian-friendly. Just keep in mind that some areas can get very crowded (especially during rush hour and on weekends), and people will NOT get out of your way. Your Canadianness will struggle with this, but eventually you will learn to stand your ground. 7
WALKING TOURS The best way to see this city is on foot — get out and explore! There are so many interesting neighbourhoods, lush green parks, fun stores, beautiful temples, and other hidden gems waiting for you. If you’re not sure where to start, I’ve listed a few of my favourite unofficial walking tours*, and a quick click map to get you oriented. These tours are 2–5 hours each, depending on your pace and how curious you get. Bonus: these activities (except for any food or shopping) are all free. Who says Hong Kong has to be expensive?
The Peak Skip the tram (seriously, who wants to wait in that line?!) and take the 15 bus from Central, directly across from the Star Ferry terminal. Head up to the top level (public buses are double deckers) and sit as close to the front as possible for the best mountain views. Once you’re at the peak, grab a coffee, use the facilities, and take a view super touristy photos (just follow the huge crowds). When you’ve had your fill of jostling elbows for the perfect shot, head away from the tourist centre and hit up some of the exercise trails. You can walk at your own pace, in a large circle across the mountain top, or visit Victoria Garden. If you’re feeling particularly active, you can walk you way back down to the Mid Levels, otherwise, laugh as you pass the hordes of people waiting for the overcrowded tram, and hop back on the bus. Map It: Catch the 15 — https://goo.gl/maps/bjEh8r457oB2 At the top: https://goo.gl/maps/4y3YiKdYjUE2 (Just one of many walks available. Once you’re there just follow your feet!) 8
*Self Guided or Sarah-Guided, your choice!
Mong kok Markets Highlights: • Bird Market • Goldfish Market • Ladies Market Start at Prince Edward Station, head east to the Bird Market, then wind your way back through the Flower Market, stop for lunch in a local café, head south to the Goldfish Market, grab a tea (did you know they put cheese in tea here? Try it, I dare you) and some street food, then continue south through the Ladies Market. Worth noting: While the bird, flower, and goldfish market all sell their namesakes, you will not find ladies for sale at the Ladies Market. That sort of activity can be found in Wan Chai and the New Chungking Mansion after dark. Map It: From the Bird Market to the Ladies Market — https://goo.gl/maps/wBWny7hWHND2 (Don’t follow this route directly, wander the whole area!)
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Old Meets New Highlights: • West Central • Upper Lascar Row • Soho • Mid Levels Take a stroll through West Central and see the Chinese apothecaries, follow the pink signs to Soho for some quaint antiques on Upper Lascar Row, pop over to the historic Man Mo temple, and finish up in the Mid Levels with a ride on the longest outdoor covered escalator in the world! Grab bite at one of the countless restaurants lining the hills to work up your energy for the walk down. Map It: From Western Market to the Mid Level Escalator — https://goo.gl/maps/CoDuDm3PEqt
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Stanley Some consider this to be a tourist trap, but I think it’s a charming coastal area full of food and fun. It’s one of the oldest villages in Hong Kong, but it’s not as remote as Sai Kung or Tai O, and it’s a lot more commercial. Go before 5pm to hit up the markets. Then stroll the promenade, and grab dinner on the boardwalk. Map It: From Central to Stanley by public transit — https://goo.gl/maps/x1cGQzYGQyz
Top left: Stanley, in the distance. (You don’t have to hike there, you can take a bus...) 11
Gardens and Tea Highlights: • Zoological Park & Botanical Gardens • Hong Kong Park • Tea Ware Museum • Tea Shop Head to Admiralty (Central) and walk to the Zoological Park & Botanical Gardens. When you’re tired of visiting monkeys, head across the street to Hong Kong Park. Explore the gardens, relax by the waterfall, and definitely check out the Flagstaff Tea Ware Museum. Then walk north to One Pacific Place where you can stop for tea (or a lovely meal) at TWG. Worth noting: TWG is actually from Singapore, but I think it’s one of the best tea and dining experiences in Asia. Map It: From the Zoological Park & Botanical Gardens through to TWG Tea — https://goo.gl/maps/Q7bVVTLx9UJ2
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Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery This is not actually a monastery (it’s a temple) but there really are ten thousand Buddhas. Take the MTR to Sha Tin and it’s a five minute walk from the station. The entrance is a bit hidden, but if you get lost just ask anyone in the nearby mall to point you in the right direction. It’s a bit of a hike up the stairs to the temple, but you will barely notice because you will be too busy taking photos of the gold (painted) statues that line the walkway — no two are alike. If you’re lucky, you’ll meet some monkeys on your way. There is also a small café near the first temple, stop for photos and a rest, and then head up to the top. Hike up a little farther to visit the ivory white Kwun Yam statue; she is magnificent. On your way back to the MTR, stop for a bite at King Pizza Tuesday. Map It: From Sha Tin Station to the start of the monastery walk — https://goo.gl/maps/qJiXeVdhmWF2
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the tst Highlights: • Granville • Kowloon Park Wander through Tsim Sha Tsui East for some of the best shopping (and alleyways filled with small bites and craft beers) until you are overwhelmed by crowds, then head to Kowloon Park. Wander the paths, check out the aviary, watch the locals dance or do tai chi, and then head to the west side for an ice cream cone and a visit with my best Hong Kong friends, the flamingos! (Honestly, I visit them once or twice a week. It does not get old.) Map It: From shopping to the flamingos — https://goo.gl/maps/UjPox3or7i22
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DAY TRIPS Cheng Chau A small island with a lot of history. You can hike the perimeter, or just lounge on the beach. There are historic villages, temples, rock carvings, and even a pirate cave. Let me say that again, there is a pirate cave! Getting There: Take the First Ferry from Central (Pier 5), it leaves every 30 or 40 minutes.
Sai Kung Just over an hour away from the city is a small fishing village with reportedly excellent dining options. It is also home to a huge country park, Sheung Yui Folk Museum (closed Tuesdays), Pak Tam Nature Trail, boat tours, and beautiful beaches. Getting There: Take a taxi (30 minutes), or take the MTR to Choi Hung Station and hop on the 1A (1.5 hours).
Macau If you get bored of Hong Kong, you can hop on a ferry and head off to “the Vegas of China,” Macau. It’s another Chinese SAR so it is easily accessible to tourists. Getting There: Take the Cotai or TurboJet Ferry from Shun Tak. It takes about 1 hour each way, and leaves roughly every 15 minutes between 7am-11:45pm. Remember to bring your passport because you will be crossing an international border. Don’t worry, you will receive a 30 day tourist visa when you pass through immigration. 15
Hiking There are plenty of hiking trails in Hong Kong, featuring everything from hardcore rock climbing adventures to well-paved walking paths. Whatever your fitness level, there is a trail for you! The official trails are all safe, well marked, well maintained, and almost all of them are accessible via public transit. Below are a few of my favourite routes, and a couple that I’m curious to explore.
Cheng Chau Island This is a day trip. You can get to the island by ferry and hike the entire perimeter, or just tackle either the north or south section. Coastal views, beaches, temples, and a real slice of old Hong Kong. Distance: 8km (South loop) Time: 3 hours A million stairs? No.
Dragon’s Back The most iconic of HK’s hikes. Gorgeous views, but a little more family friendly than The Twins. Worth noting: I refuse to do this on a weekend due to it’s popularity, I don’t like people that much. Distance: 8.5km Time: 3.5 hours A million stairs? Only about 300.
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Kan Shan COuntry Park
Sunset Peak
Monkeys, monkeys, monkeys! The Family Walk is a mostly flat, mostly paved trail that is intended to be a leisurely stroll among the macaques.
On Lantau Island. Of particular interest is Lantau Trail Stage 2 which features “Mountain Camp” a collection of strange tiny stone houses (all sealed shut now) on a mountain top.
Distance: 1km Time: 45 minutes A million stairs? No.
Distance: 6.5km Time: 3 hours A million stairs? Maybe. Let’s go find out!
Lion Rock
Tai Mo Shan (“Big Hat Mountain”)
One of the best hikes on the Kowloon/New Territories side! It’s only Hong Kong’s 52nd highest peak, but that means great views without a vomit-inducing climb. (There are still a lot of stairs…) You can take public transit right to the starting point, and you can hike in a circle from the MTR. Bonus: The forested area before you officially enter Lion Rock Country Park is home to a lot of monkeys.
This is a big hike, but it is the highest peak in Hong Kong! If you want the views but not the workout, you can actually drive up close to the top. If you’re an early bird, hopping in a taxi for sunrise here would probably be a stunning start to the day.
Distance: 3km Time: 2.5 hours A million stairs? Yes.
The Peak Skip the tram line and just walk. Honestly, the walk probably takes less time than waiting for the tram. The walk includes some city streets, but mostly paved paths in shady groves as you go up and up. At the top of Victoria Peak there are a bunch of walking trails. On my last visit I wandered for 3 hours around the mountaintop and I still haven’t seen it all!
Distance: 10km Time: 5 hours A million stairs? Not if you take a taxi!
Violet Hill and The Twins (a.k.a. Wilson Trail, Section 1) This is the best workout hike, and if you trek it backwards (it should technically start in Stanley) you are rewarded with the best views: Wong Nai Chung Gap, Repulse Bay, Stanley. Cons: Your quads will hate you. Pros: Rewarding this exercise with gelato and good eats in Stanley. Also, the view. Distance: 4.8 km Time: 3 hours A million stairs? No, two million stairs.
Distance: 3km Time: 1 hour A million stairs? No, just a few. But it is all uphill. 17
Worth Checking Out This is just scratching the surface of things to do and see in Hong Kong. Here are some other activities and sights to add to your itinerary while you’re here.
Take the Tram
Parks
Riding the “Ding Ding” is one of the cheapest way to see the city on Hong Kong Island. Instead of a touristy Big Bus tour or the “TramOramic” tour, just hop on the regular tram. Take the route from Western Market to North Point, and get off wherever it looks interesting. At only $2.30 HKD per ride, get on and off as often as you want. Bonus: Use your Octopus card here.
Hong Kong Park
Lantau Island
Kowloon Walled City Park
• Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car • Tian Tan Buddha
Markets Not listed in this guide, but definitely worth visiting: • The Jade Market • The Temple Street Night Market • The Wet Market in North Point
Galleries • Above Second • Gagosian • Tang Contemporary
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The perfect city park, home to a conservatory, waterfalls, turtles, and the tea museum
Kowloon Park My favourite place in the city, home of the flamingos
A public park that used to be a den of crime and hedonism, features a Chinese zodiac garden and the ruins of the old city.
Nan Lian Garden Near the Chi Lin Nunnery, this picturesque park is very tranquil — if you can ignore the flashes and clicks of cameras.
Victoria Park Not to be confused with Victoria Peak, this is the largest public park on Hong Kong Island. It’s equipped for virtually every sport.
Tai O Fishing Village A historic fishing village in the New Territories, it’s a bit like stepping back in time.
Museums
Hong Kong Museum of History
Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware
A must-see for all first time visitors. Especially good for a rainy or bad air day.
A small museum dedicated to tea and it’s many vessels. Small, charming, and incredibly informative.
Tickets: $10 ($5 for seniors), permanent exhibit is free *Closed Tuesdays
Tickets: Free *Closed Tuesdays
Hong Kong Space Museum
Hong Kong Maritime Museum When you alight from the Star Ferry, this is the first tourist attraction available in Central. I have walked passed it at least twenty times but I haven’t stopped to venture inside yet.
Right on the waterfront. The newly renovated exhibition hall has timed sessions (starting at 1pm) so plan your visit accordingly. Tickets: $10 ($5 for seniors), free on Wednesdays; 3D Omnimax & Sky Show Tickets $24 *Closed Tuesdays
Tickets: $30 ($15 for seniors)
Hong Kong Science Museum Always a fun way to spend a rainy day. Tickets: $20 ($10 for seniors), free on Wednesdays *Closed Thursdays
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