Fat is No Longer a Feminist Issue

FAT IS NO LONGER A FEMINIST ISSUE

An illustrated report into behaviour change theories within male fashion advertising by Sayuri Standing 1

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Student name: Sayuri Standing Student number: N0442132 Course title: BA (Hons) Fashion Communication and Promotion (Year Two) Module title: Communication & Message Module Leader: Sarah Lewington Reference Number: FASH20031

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CONTENTS 6 Introduction & Context 8 Research & Investigation 10 Consequences & Solutions 12 Advertising Case Studies 15 Project Proposal 18 Conclusion & Suggestions for the future 20 References 21 Bibliography 22 List of Illustrations 4

Appendix 23

Methodology

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Survey Results

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Focus Group - Consent Forms

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Focus Group - Transcript

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Word Count

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INTRODUCTION & CONTEXT “Fat is no longer just a feminist issue,”writes Tracey

McVeigh (The Observer, 2010: Online), chief reporter of The Observer. It is a statement which contradicts Susie Orbach’s confrontational 1978 book title. She elaborates: “the number of men suffering problems with food and body image is rising fast, with experts suggesting that 40% of binge eaters and a quarter of anorexia and bulimia sufferers are male – compared with 10% a decade ago … the equivalent rates for women have not changed significantly.”

This article was published in 2010, in response to a widespread trend that made fashionable for men to be skinny; virtually mirroring the exasperated desire in women to resemble ‘size zero’ catwalk models.

This new male trend was pioneered by indie musicians such as Johnny Borrell frontman for Razorlight.

These figureheads led to a new model aesthetic for brands such as Topman and Calvin Klein, subsequently resulting in a new mannequin design by leading manufacturer Rootstein, who designed the male figure with a 35 inch chest and a 27 inch waist – 12 inches smaller than the average British man.

While all this prompted a dangerous rise in ‘manorexia,’ this is a curveball against the ongoing issue surrounding ‘bigorexia’ where the male figure has long been idealised to be bulked-up in fashion and the general media.

Apparently, our fixed ideal for the fit and muscular male laid its origins in Ancient Greece and Egypt. Anna Akbari has a Ph.D. in Sociology and teaches at New York University’s Steinhardt School, she explains (Sociology of Style, 2013: Online) that the naked male form was immortalised and celebrated in art. Being physically fit, exemplified through muscle, was of great importance as it was a symbol of self-control and authority which were prized attributes in society. This went on to influence Italian artists of the Renaissance movement such as Michelangelo’s David who was physicalized through Greek ideals of the male form. Throughout the 20th century, however, muscles regained their prominence as “the embodiment of phallic power” in an excessive way. The steroid-pumped superhero ideal was born through comic book characters and action figures such as G.I. Joe. It was the 1970s where we saw the gaunt rock star-look first prevail. In a time before Alex Turner, it was the likes of punk frontman Joey Ramone leading the trend. Muscularity soon returned for a permanent comeback

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in the 1980s when exercising became a trend across both sexes. This decade also saw AIDs emerge, and the physical links to health were once again reinforced as having a pumpedup physique showed you were not ill.

Fashion imagery marketed to men saw the rise of male underwear models such as David Beckham, with Apollonian figures that hark back to the Greek ideal, it showed that even male bodies could be scrutinised and objectified as were women’s. Despite going back and forth, it seems only one message remains: the more muscles you obtained; the more masculine you were considered.

Now the modern male has two bodily ideals to aspire to: hyper-masculine muscularity or androgynous slenderness. In some respect you could argue that there is more diversity in bodily ideals for men than there are currently for women (supposedly just the one in preference for slenderness).

Between the size zero male and the steroid-infused one, however, the men who are shaped outside of these ideals are vastly unconsidered and unrepresented. Whilst the social pressure that faces women to be slim overshadows men’s concerns with selfesteem, the tables are turning and the statistics (as represented earlier) are slowly equalising. New generations of men are more image-conscious than ever before.

Figure 1: Plaster cast of original statue of ‘David’, by Michelangelo, Florence, Italy, 1501-4.

Figure 2: Superman from Adventures of Superman #8. Artwork

by Joe Bennett and Belardino Brabo.

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The modern male has two bodily ideals to aspire to:

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HYPER-MASCULINE MUSCULARITY or ANDROGYNOUS SLENDERNESS Figure 3: Johnny Borrell on the May 2007 cover of Vogue UK with Natalia Vodianova.

Photographed by Mario Testino.

Figure 4: David Beckham in Emporio Armani Fall 2009 Underwear campaign.

Photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.

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RESEARCH & IN Secondary Research

Consumer

analysts Mintel affirm this in their UK sales statistics (2013: Online). “The men’s grooming market grew at twice the rate of the men’s clothing sector in 2012,” a result of “a change in social attitude towards male vanity [having] been at the heart of the industry’s growth.” The market worth is still only 5% of the UK menswear market which was worth £10,437 million in 2012 and is steadily increasing - the global market is expected to exceed $402 billion in 2014 (approximately £245 billion). A separate men’s event from the female-centric London Fashion Week entitled London Collections: Men launched in June 2012 in response to this growing interest in fashion amongst men, and appearance in general. Mass-market brands under Unilever such as Lynx and Dove have well established grooming products for men already on the market. Tom Ford, however, debuted his male grooming range in autumn 2013 with Marc Jacobs looking to launch his own soon. Whilst the men’s toiletries and clothing industries may be expanding ones, the growth is slow at an 11% increase from both sectors over five years. The latter designer efforts are evident of the laggard development known of men’s fashion, in comparison to the rapid innovations seen in women’s fashion and beauty. Ford and Jacobs’s efforts could prompt a trickle-down effect that is more influential in increasing the current continuum for male grooming into the mainstream majority.

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Figure 5: Graph from Mintel Oxygen July 2012. Source GMI/Mintel.

Figure 6: Lynx Apollo deodorant.

Figure 7: Image from Tom Ford for Men Skincare and Grooming Campaign.

Figure 8: Backstage photo from Christopher Shannon Spring 2014 show at London Collections: Men.

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VESTIGATION Primary Research

To

put these statistics and claims into perspective, I conducted a survey amongst male acquaintances (see Appendix), out of 33 respondents the majority (61%) were aged from 18 to 24. I assumed the results would echo my secondary research but was a little taken aback by the results that came through. The majority of the respondents claimed to have a positive or indifferent view on their self-esteem (30% each) and said that the media did not put them under pressure to conform to any kind of body ideal. Friends and family, at 19 answers, were the biggest influencers to my participants’ self-esteem. This was closely followed by TV and film with 18 responses then advertising at 13. Having said that, they did acknowledge that such media pressure exists when asked:

“How much do you agree with the statement:

‘Just as women face social pressure to be thin, guys have pressure to be sculpted.’

Do you believe there is increasing pressure on males to achieve a particular body ideal?”

The vast majority at 76% said yes. In the comments section, the respondents were unified in their description of the fixed ideal the media had represented to them: “handsome and ripped,” and “as if they were Adonis himself.”

Whilst some felt severely affected by the pressure, the majority felt that “the pressure on men for a particular body ideal is not as great as it is for women,” yet believed that it is rising,

some believed “due to [the] rise of feminism.” A few respondents also noted that the male pressure could be a backlash from the pressure on females, thus creating a vicious circle:

“Because although the media industry is mainly criticised for shaping the way women are

it also gives women a false impression on how the male figure is supposed to look as well. ‘supposed’ to look

There’re making men feel pressured as well when women are trying hard to ‘perfect’ themselves.”

This led me to ask: “Would seeing more diverse role models in the media impact positively on your self-esteem?” The majority agreed at 36% closely followed by an apathetic ‘possibly’ at 33%, with the familiar consensus throughout the comments section suggesting that “it probably would not influence me, personally … however, it could have a positive impact in society overall.” My respondents claim the media would not affect their relatively confident selves… yet?

The lack of parallelism between by primary and secondary research could be affected by a number of factors. The respondents were personal acquaintances for one, despite reassuring their anonymity behind their answers, they may still feel reluctant to be completely truthful with their thoughts – especially regarding personal self-esteem.

Another reason could be in reflection to the laggard nature in which men’s trends develop, as mentioned earlier.

My respondents do not necessarily follow fashion and therefore would 9

represent the mainstream male, and the men who fall under this category are prone to acknowledging changes only after the trend leaders and early adopters. This is evident in their response to one question asking to name the specific brands who they believe to be leaders in representing diversity. The majority of respondents failed to acknowledge any brands or companies by name.

As my research is being conducted with the aim of helping men, it seemed appropriate to ask the men themselves how they believe “I could change the way notions of beauty are communicated in the future to promote positive self-esteem for the next generation.” Many encouraged the use of diverse role models in various media, along with promoting “charisma and character,” an “emphasis on not ‘being’ but ‘working’ for others,” and “placing a greater focus on personality.” One added:

“It’s a case of nurture and not nature, [for example] if we hadn’t been subjected to any part of the media [whilst] growing up we wouldn’t have been brainwashed into only liking skinny/chiselled models.

It needs to be nipped in the bud at a young age!”

Mintel (2013: Online) predicted their statistics regarding rising male narcissism a decade ago, naming the trend ‘Man in the Mirror,’ but with many new product and event launches taking place within the past few years, it is evident that this is a steadilydeveloping macro trend.

CONSEQUENCES & SOL Values of masculinity

are being questioned as ‘metrosexuality’ is becoming commonplace, yet at the same time condemned, amongst men. Within the madness for what is considered an acceptable representation of being male, no wonder in 2013, Britain now faces a ‘masculinity crisis.’ A speech led by Labour MP and shadow health minister, Diane Abbott, warned of “a ‘crisis of masculinity in Britain’ because of the pressures rapid economic and social change [had] placed on masculine identity.” This is further encouraged by the “pressure to

the education system, are more likely to be homeless, and are less likely to access NHS services” (BBC News UK, 2013: Online).

As the Greeks believed perceived muscle matched their physical strength, the visual aspiration of masculinity is heavily ingrained in the problem also. Dr John Morgan, a leading eating disorder specialist, explains this: “The difference between men and women … tends to be that men focus on shape more than weight, and also men have the extra issue of being expected to be an ideal which is not incompatible with health, so George

Abbott has urged for more action to take place that helps boys see a less narrow view of masculinity: “[Abbott] will call for a strengthened role for fathers in family life, with father-friendly parenting classes, meaningful parental leave for men and more conversations between fathers and sons about manhood …

Ms Abbott will also call for schools and parents to do more to encourage boys to talk about the issues they face and she wants more male teachers in schools to act as role models.” (BBC News UK, 2013: Online) Writer Jack O’Sullivan, who is also cofounder of the FatherhoodInstitute, is

Out of vulnerability, men are turning to represent a stereotypical ide

structural, cultural and social norm live up to ‘pornified ideals’” as Viagra is being bought as a performanceenhancer rather than for medical reasons, subsequently fuelling misogyny and other hyper-masculine barbarisms such as homophobia. Out of vulnerability, men are turning to represent a stereotypical ideology of masculinity that is so ingrained in our structural, cultural and social norm.

It is because of these expectations, men defer to seeking help. Which means “common psychological disorders, including depression and anxiety, are under diagnosed” and men are “more likely to take their own lives than women, have lower educational attainment at all levels of

Clooney might have a great body but we’d also expect him to scale Mount Kilimanjaro, whereas Keira Knightley would struggle with the mountain, but that would be expected.” (The Observer, 2010: Online) Gender sterotypes have long assumed the male to be the breadwinner, so when faced with economic instability and the high unemployment rates that come with it, a man can only be left with a severely distressed self-esteem.

Not only has our rigid social and cultural expectations of masculinity left damaging personal effects but have led to violence towards others and, in one case, a family murder.

(The Observer, 2013: Online)

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one of many men who agreed with her claims. He also affirms my assumption that the respondents from my survey could very well be laggards in acknowledging these sweeping societal and cultural changes. O’Sullivan goes on to say that, “men, like women, are belatedly escaping what we now recognise to be the confines of our gender” (The Wired World in 2014, 2013: p. 65).

This is also backed by the respondents’ ages, which lie mostly between the youngest (and most impressionable) 18 to 25 category. So far the solutions laid out strongly emphasise the need for the older generation to influence the younger more positively.

UTIONS There are schemes

already taking place which have built upon the need for positive male role models and have proved successful. Brighton-based charity, A Band of Brothers, pair older men, from a variety of professions, as mentors to troubled younger men in the community. Through weekly sessions and weekends away, the pairs form strong enduring bonds which lead to beneficial outcomes. Rowen Bainbridge, 45, is owner of an oil and gas company and volunteered to mentor Steve Logan, 22, through the charity. Before Logan signed up for

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esteem. This is evident through the suggestions raised by Diane Abbott and other leading professionals, which is reflective in the success by A Band of Brothers. If younger generations of men, from boys to millennials, all received this level of personal address on the realistic definitions of masculinity, then most likely they will grow up more confident and comfortable in their skin and subsequently less likely to cause antisocial behaviour.

If mentors promoted body confidence, then that would be one step towards creating an overall positive entity within young men. Mentors alone,

ology of masculinity that is so ingrained in our the scheme, he was “directionless and falling in and out of trouble,” himself recalling: “I had no good male role models growing up. I drifted” (The Guardian, 2012: Online). Now he works as a forklift truck driver and is proud to be achieving something.

Alex Bailey, the charity’s chair of trustees, stresses “This is often the first time any of these young men will have had a meaningful, positive relationship with older men … Boys don’t suddenly become men at 18.

And if they’ve had difficult lives with no positive male influences the consequences can be serious and long term.” Logan has even gone on to say, “A Band of Brothers has changed my life.” (The Guardian, 2012b: Online) As aforementioned from the survey results, my male participants stated that friends and family are the biggest influencers towards their self-

however, are not influential enough to persuade a generation that they are fine the way they are. Not when imagery depicted in media and advertising all contradict this and display the Apollonian aesthetic as standard.

According to research by MarketLine, the “key players in the global men’s clothing industry include: Armani, Levi’s, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Nike, Diesel, Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, and Ermenegildo Zegna” (ReportLinker, 2012: Online). None of these brands particularly promote any bodily diversity with their model choices, whether it is on the catwalks or in their advertising. See figures 11 and 12 for a selection of these brand’s latest advertising campaigns.

One can see that the imageries cater to antiquated attitudes towards masculinity, and none have attempted to challenge it.

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12 Figure 9: Steve Logan (left) with his mentor Rowen Bainbridge in Band of Brothers scheme.

Photographed by Frantzesco Kangaris.

Figure 10: Dianne Abbott in speech.

Figure 11: Dolce & Gabbanna The One Sport fragrance advertisement for Spring 2013.

Figure 12: Hugo Boss Black Bodywear advertisement for Spring 2013.

ADVERTISING: CASE STUDIES French Connection crafted an intriguing campaign for their spring 2010 collection. Created by advertising agency Fallon, it drew upon “classic gender stereotypes associated with old fashioned French cinema” (The Inspiration Room, 2010: Online). French Connection’s male protagonist speaks directly to their male consumers, almost telling them what to do. He goes against the grain of typical idols championed by Calvin Klein or Armani, the hero for this highstreet retailer embodies the qualities of a caveman – the extremity of assumed masculinity. He is described by one blogger as “a rugged, bearded and outspoken character who tells our customer how to dress. He has the physique of a bare-knuckle boxer, the brain of Voltaire and a discerning eye.

Other men can learn much from him” (If it’s Hip, It’s Here, 2010: Online).

On posters he has quotes emblazoned across him in large, bold and capitalised type, from: “THIS IS THE MAN,” “EAT MEAT. DRESS WELL,” and “MAN SHOULD BE BRAVE.” They are all very commanding and, in my opinion, a big step backwards in regards to broadening our perceptions of masculinity.

I held a focus group with eight male participants aged between 19 - 25. I asked for their opinions on a series of male-targeted adverts including French Connection’s. The majority claimed not to “understand” the adverts and felt the simplified caveman tone of the print advert’s slogans were derogatory.

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Figure 13: Poster from French Connection Spring 2010 campaign by Fallon.

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One successful campaign in promoting positive body image, is not by a clothing brand, but by

Southern Comfort

– a liquor. Their most recent, ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ campaign was mentioned by a few respondents in my survey when I asked: “Are there any brands or companies out there that you believe are already leading the way in terms of using diverse models?” In the focus group, one member went as far to say “I liked that advert so much.

That actually made me go out and buy Southern Comfort.” Critics have also lauded their efforts; Sam Thielman from AdWeek is full of praise for the first, and most memorable, video commercial from the series:

Who Thielman is referring to, is the advert’s protagonist: an older gent, who flaunts his rotund figure in nothing but a pair of very-short, fitted swimming trunks and wading shoes. He has a receding hairline that gives way to a head of short curls and sports a handlebar moustache (as opposed to the thick beard currently in vogue). His gaze is obscured by his thick-framed red sunglasses that hark back to eighties swagger a la Miami Vice. The reflection in the lenses allows the viewer to see themselves in him (almost distorting John Berger’s famous theory), as Thielman reiterates, “this dude looks like most of us guys here in the journalism world ... Truly, this is a hero for the everyman.”

This mysterious man doesn’t speak, we simply watch him walk down the

belly) with a red flag flying out of the glass, reading the slogan: “Whatever’s Comfortable.” Or as Gabriel Beltrone, also from AdWeek, describes as, “the company’s little red we-don’t-give-as**t flag,” which sends a clear message: “This is the drink of the average winner” (Adweek, 2013: Online).

Southern Comfort have extended this campaign with two more videos making a hero of another older gent, this one skinnier and more modestlydressed, and set in a hairdresser. The message remains the same as he leaves the other ladies in the salon in awe with his confidence. The brand have also resurrected the hero from the beach in an online campaign where he tells the weather in your local area, thus subjecting him to brave the rain and wind (as well as sunshine,

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“This, Internet.

This is the most interesting man in the world. Is he stunningly handsome? Is he uncommonly svelte?

Is he well dressed? Or dressed at all? In fact, he is not. Yet even the hot girl in the short shorts and the bikini top at 0:59 can’t resist his magnetism.”

(AdWeek, 2012: Online)

beach – but with the subtle swagger that denotes pure self-ease in his own skin (which is all he’s dressed in) – soundtracked by “Hit or Miss”

by Odetta, with rather apt lyrics such as, “I gotta be me,” chiming through.

His confidence creates a magnetism around him that has attracted young girls to double-take as he walks by and even dogs to get up and follow him.

He then goes out of shot for a second to return to his walk with a highball of Southern Comfort in his hand. The end shot closes in on his drink (and 13

Figure 14: Still from Southern Comfort commercial, 1 August 2012 by Wieden + Kennedy.

luckily) in just his swimming trunks.

The purpose behind this extension is unclear. Aside from the scratch into personalisation, which is favourable amongst millenials (especially since the success of Coca Cola’s personalised bottles), I am not particularly impressed that Southern Comfort can read you the world’s weather and it hasn’t exactly rung a storm amongst critics either (pun intended).

The only criticism I have against the ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ campaign is

how they have failed to extend it past its fourth wall and into a meaningful project that engages directly with their consumers offline. The Southern Comfort website barely make mention of their advertising message, simply just showing the embedded commercial on their homepage. The company Facebook page is not particularly engaging either.

They barely make reference to the heroes from their adverts – who have every potential to become pop culture role models. Every now and again, however, they will end a post hashtagging their slogan, “#WhateversComfortable,” and tell you to “be comfortable” in various situations, for example: “Have a comfortable Christmas” (Southern Comfort Facebook Page, 2013: Online).

The brand are clearly faithful to their values, however I can’t help but feel they are only scratching the surface. They are the only brand to have celebrated diversity with next-to-none criticism in their approach. Companies such as Dove have had critics and the public debating back and forth over their various campaigns, yet still they ruthlessly continue to seek innovative ways to communicate their Self-Esteem Fund. Southern Comfort should take full advantage of their position and I believe it would broaden their fan base. According to Facebook, the average number of friends a user has is 130 (Telegraph Online, 2011: Online).

I have 696 friends at the time of writing and the majority amongst that figure are aged between 18 to 24. Only nine other friends have ‘liked’ Southern Comfort’s fan page (only one respondent from my survey was amongst them) within a total of 877,460 likers around the world – a fairly dismal figure from a global brand.

Is it possible to leverage the essence of a local mentoring scheme such like A Band of Brothers through a widespread media campaign by a liquor brand?

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15 Figure 15: Print poster from Southern Comfort ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ campaign by Wieden + Kennedy.

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JECT PROPOSAL We discussed suggestions on how Southern Comfort could possibly extend their campaign

in the benefit of their male consumers’ self-esteem.

The initial thoughts were that they do not recall any print advertising and their current ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ editorial adverts without the commercial characters are non-stimulating. They said they would appreciate seeing billboards and bus stop adverts with the characters on. They even spoke of branded merchandising such as t-shirts and swimming trunks with the ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ logo embedded - and that they would purchase them if such existed. Even a silly hat to wear at a club or bar would be happily worn.

These are definitely good starting points and should be encouraged, especially merchandised products.

The brand own a strong message and a causerelated marketing project would create positive conversations.

To encourage confidence-building behaviour amongst male millenials in an environment where many of them are found, Southern Comfort should build an interactive stand to attend various UK festivals as consumer touch-points. Whilst it is common for alcohol brands to do this, the spin would be that the punters are not allowed to purchase their drinks – they have to earn them. In order for anybody (male or female) to earn a drink, they have to pay a friend or stranger a compliment. Bar staff will interact with attendees outside the stand to discuss the incentive and they will watch them do 15

the task as evidence. It indeed does seem too easy to gain a drink and could subsequently encourage drunkenness; therefore, there will be a three drink limit per day. The compliments must be one per person. The bar staff will provide a wristband after the first drink earned and they will tally the compliments on there. For each third compliment you receive a prize which increases in value. For example, an ideal first prize would be a pair of slogan-embossed sunglasses (similar to the pair championed by the first commercial’s protagonist).

If six compliments are paid by the second day of the festival, a hat could potentially be earned then if one completes all nine compliments by the end then they can receive a t-shirt.

What is distinct about the festival environment is that the attendees will generally not be very groomed, particularly whilst camping. Compliments may be expected in a club or bar where one has put more effort into their appearance. Therefore compliments received when you are feel rough towards the end of the weekend, has the potential to be more effective on the respondents’ self-esteem. Also, festivals are heavily attended by young millennials and have broad, unisex appeal. The kind of consumer who will be most receptive to this project will most likely be in his late teens and have mainstream interests.

He may not follow fashion but is subconsciously aware of the current trends. He would be techsavvy, a heavy social media user and values his friends and family.

PROJECT PROPOSAL CONTD. The project will be filmed and shared via social media and could continue online. With a smartphone app dedicated to the ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ campaign, users can receive the same gifts if they play the application’s game which involves publicly writing a compliment about a friend via Facebook or Twitter. Once done and approved for five different friends, you will be eligible to receive

qualities – communication being the prevalent issue amongst men. The project will be ever evolving after its festival launch in its first year; it will add more events as it goes which will incorporate a variety of confidence-

The brand are clearly faithful to their values, however I can’t help but feel they are only scratching the surface. the first prize. More gifts will be on offer through the app and users can accumulate them and have them posted.

As the compliments can regard physical and personality traits, the project promotes both bodily confidence and the recognition of good character. More importantly, it encourages friends to be open and communicate each other’s good

boosting methods. During this, Southern Comfort should introduce more diverse commercial heroes so everyone can have someone relatable, especially younger ones as the current two are near middle-aged men. Due to it being an alcohol brand, Southern Comfort cannot engage with consumers younger than 18, however, they can make their campaign known to those who immediately become of legal drinking age and attempt to nip their insecurities in the bud where it still exists at that age.

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CONCLUSION &

SUGGESTIONS FOR THE FUTURE

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One brand alone cannot change the behaviour of an entire generation. The benefit of a liquor label encouraging positive esteem in men is that they have a broader consumer base than a fashion label would, and therefore a wider audience to spread their message to. More lifestyle brands need to encourage a similar message in order to speak to the consumer at every touch-point: from food to personal care to cars. Southern Comfort is owned by Brown-Forman Corporation, which is one of the biggest wine and spirits companies in America. Spreading a message in self-esteem should be an opportunity

seized by global corporations such as Procter and Gamble and Unilever who own consumer goods brands under a variety of sectors. A unifying project between all the brands under their umbrella has the potential for massive outreach and could override the negative messages sent out by the fashion industry. In an increasingly consumerist culture, the public are more likely to listen to the messages laid out by the companies they frequently shop from. If brands were to tell their consumers how great they are, it would increase the consumer’s self-confidence, brand confidence, and most importantly, sales.

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ANON. [no date]. Men’s Clothing Industry: Market Research Reports, Statistics and Analysis. ReportLinker [online]. Available at: http://www.reportlinker.com/ci02122/Men-s-Clothing.html [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

ANON. (2010). French Connection Campaign Salutes The Absurd With A Nod To Artsy French Films. If it’s Hip, it’s Here [online blog], 17 February. Available at: http://ifitshipitshere.blogspot.co.uk/2010/02/french-connection-campaign-salutes.html [Accessed: 24 December 2013].

ANON. (2013). Diane Abbott to warn of British ‘masculinity crisis’. BBC News UK [online], 15 May. Available at: http://www.bbc. co.uk/news/uk-22530184 [Accessed: 4 January 2014].

ANON. (2013). Colourful, shiny, and ready-to drink: you can’t say the same for tinsel. Tinsel’s rubbish. Have a comfortable Christmas. Facebook [online], 14 December. Available at: https://www.facebook.com/photo. php?fbid=663023477075132&set=a.212747478769403.54855.207119795998838&type=1&theater [Accessed: 5 January 2014].

BELTRONE, G. (2013). Ad of the Day: Southern Comfort Stumbles Upon the Genius of Its Karate Man. A spot born in casting.

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MCVEIGH, T. (2010). Skinny male models and new fashions fuel eating disorders among men. The Observer [online], 16 May. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/society/2010/may/16/skinny-models-fuel-male-eating-disorders [Accessed: 15 December 2013].

O’HARA, M. (2012). From boys to men: how mentoring is smoothing the road to adulthood. The Guardian [online], 27 March.

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SLAUGHTER, A-M. (2013). Men’s lib: the next emancipation. The Wired World in 2014 UK Edition, (2013/2014), pp.65-66.

SYAL, R. (2013). British male identity crisis ‘spurring machismo and heartlessness’. The Guardian [online], 14 May. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/politics/2013/may/14/male-identity-crisis-machismo-abbott [Accessed: 15 December 2013].

THIELMAN, S. (2012). Ad of the Day: Southern Comfort. Liquor struts out first work from Wieden + Kennedy. AdWeek [online], 3 August. Available at: http://www.adweek.com/news/advertising-branding/ad-day-southern-comfort-142444 [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

TOWNSEND, M. (2013). ‘Masculinity crisis’ leads to family murder, according to new study. The Observer [online], 11 August.

Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2013/aug/11/masculinity-crisis-family-murder [Accessed: 15 December 2013].

WILLIS, A. (2011). Most adults have ‘only two close friends’. Telegraph Online [online], 8 November. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/facebook/8876376/Most-adults-have-only-two-close-friends.html [Accessed: 5 January 2013].

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BIBLIOGRAPHY BERGER, J. (1972). Ways of Seeing. London: British Broadcasting Corporation and Penguin Books.

BRICE, J. (no date). Why Dove’s “Real Beauty Sketches” Video Makes Me Uncomfortable… and Kind of Makes Me Angry. Jazzy Little Drops [online blog]. Available at: http://jazzylittledrops.tumblr.com/post/48118645174/why-doves-real-beauty-sketches-videomakes-me [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

BURGOYNE, P. (2010). Crit: The rebirth of French Connection. Creative Review [online], (April). Available at: http://www. creativereview.co.uk/back-issues/creative-review/2010/april-2010/crit-french-connection [Accessed: 24 December 2013].

CHALABI, M. (2013). The other gender divide: where men are losing out. The Guardian [online], 7 May. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/news/datablog/2013/may/07/men-gender-divide-feminism?guni=Article:in%20body%20link [Accessed: 15 December 2013].

CHARLES, G. (2013). Southern Comfort’s marketer on why millennials love its ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ ads. Brand Republic [online], 19 September. Available at: http://www.brandrepublic.com/news/1212489 [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

CORNFORD, L. (2013). Beards offer a growth opportunity for men’s personal care. Mintel Oxygen [online], 20 May. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/insight_zones/20/ [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

CORNFORD, L. (2013). Beauty goes au naturel. Mintel Oxygen [online database], 14 August. Available at: http://academic.mintel. com/insight_zones/20/ [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

FRANK, P. (2013). Gorgeous Portraits Capture The Feminine Side Of Masculinity (PHOTOS). The Huffington Post [online], 20 August. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/08/19/nir-arieli_n_3767849.html [Accessed: 15 December 2013].

LIBBY, C. (2013). Beauty Advertising: A Man’s World? Mintel Oxygen [online database], 10 September. Available at: http://academic. mintel.com/insight_zones/10/ [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

“Lily Myers - “Shrinking Women” (CUPSI 2013),” 2013. Button Poetry. [Online] Youtube, 18 April. [Available at: http://www.youtube. com/watch?v=zQucWXWXp3k&list=TLDZBbASzsKI40dsHSVs6LkrzAL141jfZ6. Accessed: 28 December 2013].

LONG, H. (2013). Dove’s ‘real beauty sketches’ ad deserves some praise. The Guardian [online], 20 April. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/apr/20/dove-real-beauty-sketches-ad-women-perfection [Accessed: 24 December 2013].

MARCOTTE, M. (2012). Are Beauty Standards Higher for Men Now? Slate [online], 12 December. Available at: http://www.slate. com/blogs/xx_factor/2012/12/12/men_on_screen_are_more_muscular_but_that_doesn_t_mean_much_has_really_changed.html [Accessed: 15 December 2013].

MENKE, S. (2008). Marketing to Gen Y. Mintel Oxygen [online database], 29 August. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/ insight_zones/15/ [Accessed: 5 January 2014].

MERCER, J. (2013). S-commerce: are consumers interested? Mintel Oxygen [online database], 11 July. Available at: http://academic. mintel.com/insight_zones/15/ [Accessed: 5 January 2014].

NUDD, T. (2013). Ad of the Day: Southern Comfort. W+K trades the beach for the salon and another exceeding comfortable gent. AdWeek [online], 10 June. Available at: http://www.adweek.com/news/advertising-branding/ad-day-southern-comfort-150170 [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

POOLE, G. (2013). How tackling the ‘crisis of masculinity’ creates a crisis for feminism. The Guardian [online], 15 May. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/may/15/why-crisis-masculinity-feminism?guni=Article:in%20body%20link [Accessed: 15 December 2013].

RIEMER, A. (2013). Post-workout product positioning to help boost bodycare appeal amongst men. Mintel Oxygen [online database], 9 August. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/insight_zones/20/ [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

ROMANOWSKI, S. (2013). Unilever Expands Presence in Men’s Grooming Category. Mintel Oxygen [online database], 26 February.

Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/insight_zones/20/ [Accessed: 26 December 2013].

SHELTON, M. (2010). Male Beauty: Variety and Homogenization in the Future. Psychology Today [online], 20 November. Available at: http://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/sex-life-the-american-male/201011/male-beauty-variety-and-homogenization-in-thefuture [Accessed: 15 December 2013].

STEELE, V. and MEARS, P. (2012). Dr Valerie Steele on the fashionable body with Patricia Mears. Acne Paper (13) (Spring), pp.108111.

WOLF, N. (1991). The Beauty Myth. London: Random House.

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Cover image: MORBACH, A. (n.d.). Image from the 55cm series in Horst Magazine. Studio Morbach [online]. Available at: http:// www.studiomorbach.com/media/gallery/111203_horst_korsett_09-1352825811.jpg [Accessed: 26 December 2013.]

Figure 1: ANON. (1857). Plaster cast of original statue of ‘David’ by Michelangelo. Florence, Italy, 1501-4 [Sculpture]. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0004/223798/2007BM5740_michelangelo_ david_plaster_cast_290x435.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 2: BENNETT, J., and BRABO, B. (2013). ‘Adventures of Superman #8’ [Cartoon]. The official DC Comics website, December [online]. Available at: http://media.dcentertainment.com/sites/default/files/styles/covers192x291/public/comic-covers/2013/09/ ADVSM_Cv8_ze07435ytq_.jpg?itok=YJEqnPSY [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 3: TESTINO, M. (2007). Vogue UK May 2007 cover. Vogue.co.uk [online]. Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/426x639/ k_n/may07_426x639.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 4: ALAS, M. and PIGGOTT, M. (2009). David Beckham in Emporio Armani Fall 2009 Underwear campaign. Models.com [online]. Available at: http://i.models.com/i/db/2009/6/7766/7766-800w.jpg Emporio Armani FW09 [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 5: GMI/MINTEL. (2012). Piechart displaying the number of toiletries used by men in July 2012. Mintel Oxygen [online].

Available at: [Accessed: 26 December 2013.]

Figure 6: ANON. (n.d.). Image of Lynx Apollo deodorant. Chemist Direct [online]. Available at: http://images-its.chemistdirect.co.uk/ Lynx-Apollo-Deodorant-Bodyspray-187182.jpg%3Fo%3Dr8o80gUVYi5rInEadX7K6FOMcBEj%26V%3DBl%249%26q%3D70 [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 7: FORD, T. (2013). Poster from Tom Ford for Men Skincare and Grooming Campaign. GQ [online]. Available at: http://www. gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/tom-ford-mud-mask-men.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 8: LEE, H. (2013). Backstage photo from Christopher Shannon Spring 2014 show at London Collections: Men. Wonderland Magazine [online]. Available at: http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Christopher-ShannonSpringSummer-2014-Backstage-e1371633470265.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 9: KANGARIS, F. (2012). Steve Logan and Rowen Bainbridge as part of the Band of Brothers scheme. The Guardian [online].

Available at: http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Society/Pix/pictures/2012/3/26/1332764373870/Steve-Logan-left-and-Rowe-008. jpg [Accessed: 15 December 2013.]

Figure 10: ANON. (2012). Diane Abbott in speech. The Mirror [online]. Available at: http://i1.mirror.co.uk/incoming/article1548487. ece/ALTERNATES/s2197/Diane%20Abbott-1548487 [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 11: VIVANCO, M. (2012). Campaign poster for Dolce & Gabbanna The One Sport fragrance. Models.com [online]. Available at: http://i.models.com/i/db/2013/5/160478/160478-800w.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 12: ANWANDER, C. (2012). Campaign poster for Hugo Boss Black Bodywear range. Models.com [online]. Available at: http://i. models.com/i/db/2013/1/134883/134883-800w.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 13: FALLON. (2009). Campaign poster for French Connection Spring 2010 collection. Adeevee [online]. Available at: http:// www.ibelieveinadv.com/commons/french_connection2.jpeg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 14: WIEDEN + KENNEDY. (2012). Still from Southern Comfort ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ commercial. AdWeek [online].

Available at: http://www.adweek.com/files/imagecache/node-detail/news_article/aod-soco-hed-2012.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

Figure 15: COULTER, D. (2012). Poster fir Southern Comfort ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ campaign. AdWeek [online]. Available at: http://www.adweek.com/files/adfreak/images/3/SoCo.1.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

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APPENDIX:METHODOLOGY What did I want to find out?

How the media impacts male self-esteem (and if not, what does?)

How did I find out?

Primary Research

Secondary Research

Sent an online survey and held a focus group Newspaper and Magazine Articles Were they conducted ethically?

Yes, their participation was confirmed through consent forms (see pg.34)

Online Databases

Were the methods I used effective?

Yes, see pg.24 onwards for all results 23

APPENDIX:SURVEY RESULTS

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To kickstart my primary research I sent out an online survey highlighting a few general questions on the topic of research, males depicted in the media and how it affected the consumer’s self-esteem, with the aim to receive some first-hand insight from the consumer’s point of view.

I also included an optional discussion box at the end to give the respondents an opportunity to advise me on how to approach my topic of research.

This survey was shared directly to the respondents, most of whom I were personally acquainted with. In total, I received 33 responses.

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APPENDIX:SURVEY RESULTS

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COMMENTS “As TV and movies portray women as beautiful and thin, men often come across as well groomed and sculpted.” “some girls like skinny guys, innit, but muscle is generally viewed as healthy and attractive” “Same media influence that women face, probably increased due to rise of feminism” “Men are always portrayed as very hench and dominant in films. The ‘hero’ that has to do it all. All the men in magazines have six packs” “Well first off its hard for me to find cloths on the high street that will fit me, I have to order them off the net.

I get comments from people I don’t

even know. But I wouldn’t say I am that big.”

“To a certain extent, a slimmer, more toned body is perceived to be more attractive to the opposite sex” “In today’s western culture, male image is becoming increasingly valued and reflected upon in terms of body and fashion, but I do not believe that men are “under pressure” to conform to a certain body shape or image.

Many men pursue their ideal body for the sake of their own self-satisfaction or to appear attractive to others, but I personally am not aware of a cultural, peer or media pressure to conform. In fact, alternative media is increasingly popular and seems to favour rejection of the idea that you should conform 28

to cultural expectations of form. This applies to both men and women, but there appears to be significantly less pressure on men, perhaps due to their habits: speaking in generalities, the consumption of media material which would dictate such ideals seems to be lower than with women (i.e. fashion magazines.) however, the “metrosexual” male lifestyle is much more predominant in the 21st century, and there are large followings for “Men’s Health’ and other such fitness magazines. Furthermore there seems to be more pressure on achieving an ideal body image in gay culture, so it is difficult to evaluate fairly.”

“I believe advertising may be playing a part in this I see a lot if thin muscular men and even actors who have to

keep a good body shape to get work promoting even the most simple things such as perfume.”

“Because although the media industry is mainly criticised for shaping the way women are ‘supposed’ to look it also gives women a false impression on how the male figure is supposed to look as well. There’re making men feel pressured as well when women are trying hard to ‘perfect’ themselves.”

“Yes, because they want to look good in front of everyone and also believe that by having a perfect body, people will notice.”

“Movies and adverts portray men as if they were Adonis himself. Girls feel like they expect a guy to be sculpted beyond reasonableness and refuse to acknowledge anyone which they believe falls below their standards.”

“Men are expected to meet certain physical standards in order to be seen as attractive. Obviously this isn’t nearly as bad as the pressure on women, but it’s still very much there.”

“I don’t consider the pressure to be at all similar to the pressure that women face but at the end of the day it’s human nature for a male to be stronger, faster and smarter. Long before advertising and ‘the media’ men aspired to be the strongest, etc.

In honesty I would consider that there is a definite increase in the popularity of ‘feminine men’ with the acceptance of homosexuality, as well as glorifying of musical icons more than athletes.”

“The majority of males in media and advertising are handsome and ripped.

‘Normal’ guys only seem to used in comical adverts.”

“I have personally received some comments about my fitness and body shape, but those are more jokes and/ or concern for my health. It is not pressure at all. I also have not seen any

pressure exhibited on anyone I know, nor do I feel any from the media.”

“There is no doubt there is just as much pressure not just scuplted but also thin, with brands like Abercrombie pushing this sculpted idea and particular Fashion houses’ runway samples becomes smaller and smaller so models become thinner and thinner. Slim models have personally told me they have been turned away because they do not fit into unrealistic sized clothing . I think the male issue is nowhere near as publicised as much as the female and therefore is not challenged as much.”

“Because of media coverage and the increased popularity of going to the gym to train just to achieve a sculpted body there seems to be more pressure on men to achieve sculpted bodies.”

“They absolutely do. It’s in every magazine, every TV show, every film.

I actually think that it’s worse, women are told ‘It’s best to be thin’ men are just *expected* to be sculpted” “Whilst the pressure on women is more pronounced and almost certainly far stronger - due to the prevalence of lad-mags and magazines - in modern society the growing emancipation of women (something I wholly support) has seen their options grow. This means that many are (as is their right) more careful about their partners, with looks now playing a much greater role in how many women choose their partners. Furthermore, films and other media do have stereotypes of the ‘perfect’ which most men find themselves compared to by women.”

“Whilst I believe the pressure on men for a particular body ideal is not as great as it is for women, I do believe there is an increasing pressure.

However it is less, and less constant.”

“Media and society place more pressure on image than ever before 29

so that even lazy males have started to take more notice. In a superficial world first impressions seem to matter a lot to people. The Internet and greater access to information, images and advertising may have created a shift in attitude to self image and it’s priority in people’s lives, making competition in life, work, image, self worth etc seem much greater than it is.” “certainly in recent years there is an increasing trend for men to suffer a constant bombardment, perhaps to a similar extent as women face, with ‘idealised’ male figures, or the ‘men’s health’ cover guys, as well as male actors or celebrities who have tonnes of spare time and money (as well as expert training personnel) away from (or as part of) their day jobs and thus can afford the required investment to reach pinnacle peak fitness” “I don’t feel pressure at all to look like a standard set by someone. I’ve never had to abide by peer pressure by what’s ‘popular’, i’ve seen it as stupid and far behind how we can see ourselves. I look like how I’d want to look like, and I don’t care who has opinions against it.”

“No one wants to look like that fat yob on the bus with a can of Stella - that’s how I believe men who are overweight are portrayed in today’s media, and to some extent this has already become a popular belief. Every man wants to have a six-pack and look like a sculpture at heart anyway, a little pressure can really wreck a blokes selfesteem.”

“Topless male bodies are only ever shown when extremely fit or as a figure of revulsion. While it’s more okay for a guy to be overweight and a “jolly fat guy” he is often seen as having to rely on his humour and personality as there’s no possible way they can be attractive.”

COMMENTS “the media is bullshit, friends are real” “...these things DO NOT NECESSARILY IMPACT SELF ESTEEM! The question should perhaps read “factors that influence reflection on your own body image” - it’s not always negative!”

“Life in general.”

“Online media”

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COMMENTS “promoting more than one body image would be nice, though I don’t think the media affects my self esteem personally” “Seeing people in the media doesn’t really get to me as there are people all sizes shapes all over the world on tv or not.”

“They’re everywhere for a reason they’re the most desirable men in the world” “again, the assumption that everyone’s self-esteem is damaged by the media is a big presumption - some people are happy with being the way they are!”

“Other people that I will never meet do not really have a conscious effect on me, so if they would change my

self-esteem I wouldn’t know, but generally, why would it be logical to waste time thinking about how great somebody else is if I don’t know who they are and will never meet them?”

“Male role models are already, physically, fairly diverse. David Attenborough, for example, is no Daniel Craig, but both represent ideals of masculinity; be that physical, or intellectual.”

“The public see celebrities differently; take James Cordon for example, he’s a lad lad and everyone commented on that but in a POSITIVE way, now the same for Adele - not a chance. She was ridiculed for her weight. There is no way the same pressure on males as there is females.”

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“There are many role models in the media that are like me i.e. white british etc.”

“As this is not something that really affects me, it probably would not influence me, personally, to any great extent; however, it could have a positive impact in society overall, so long as it is not going too far the other way and promoting another form unhealthiness. Models are often too thin (or toned in sense of males) at this time, which is undesirable, but them promoting (even in an attempt at promoting body-confidence) overweight stereotypes is not a positive step in my opinion.”

“It doesn’t influence me, but if it was changed, i’m sure it’d help others who feel that way.”

Q6. Are there any brands or companies out there that you believe are already leading the way in terms of using diverse models?

“None that spring to mind.”

“Southern comfort”

“drop dead is for skinny fuckers, so i guess thats far away from hollister”

“Yohji Yamamoto has always used diverse models on the catwalk.”

“No”

“Nooo”

“Matalan have pretty average models”

“Not that I know of ”

“Jacomo even though online uses diverse models, but other than that no. I am not mega into fashion.”

“Not really, but I am not an expert.

However, I do hear that M&S are considering this issue seriously.”

“N/A”

“Maybe not that spring to mind as standing out. However I feel western media has a relatively broad range of male role models in terms of ethnicity and body type, and age, especially compared to women’s role models”

“Dove, body shop (?), I am aware of some others (specifically in lingerie also) but I do not remember the names.”

“Not that I can think of ” “Not that I know of.”

“The Body Shop” “Not in my opinion” “None that I can think of.”

“No” “Southern Comfort.”

“not that I can think of, but definitely NOT Abercrombie and Fitch!”

“Apple, Burberry, Coca Cola” “I don’t follow fashion D:” “I think there are a few brands helping work on female self esteem but hardly any leading the way when it comes to men. Jacamo seems to be but I can’t think of any others.”

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Q7. As part of my report, I have to consider how I could change the way notions of beauty are communicated in the future to promote positive self-esteem for the next generation. Any ideas?? Thank you! “beauty on the whole is skin deep, but a wider variety of models to portray different perceptions of beauty would be nice” “Models who aren’t perfect in every way e.g. one with a big nose, big ears but are still very attractive” “Stop the promotion of unrealistic women, who are stick thin, stop with the airbrushing to make them even more slender and unrealistic.”

“Advertising often requires pairing products with aspirations... simply showing a reflection of the user with the product and happiness (or some other positive attribute) is valid, but may be difficult to achieve... often “new and improved” is favoured for its effectiveness in manipulating the desires of the consumer to drive their need for the product.”

“Reduce the number of people in films and adverts (and other forms of social media) from being as sculpted as they are, although it would be almost impossible as you’d have to convince movie stars and MNC’s that they don’t want the “most attractive” people in their adverts.”

“Find a way to promote charisma and character. That way it becomes less about appearance. I have no idea.

Good luck!”

“There is not much to do i think.

As brands use models which are considered as attractive by women

and womem on the other way consider those as attractive. This close bond/relation between those groups lead way in what kind of men are used as models and set trend. Along with movies and music video clips...”

“An emphasis on not ‘being’ but ‘working’ for others. Everyone is different, why is that a bad thing?

Differences should be celebrated.”

“Less focus on looking good for someone else, more focus on looking good for your own health’s sake. If we thought more about the health aspect, we’d care less about supposedly ‘fat’ people who are actually healthy but have a naturally larger body.

Essentially, more empathy in general.”

“Having really ugly models (not all worldies) would raise everyone’s self esteem.”

“Show that no body type it ‘right’ and that, frankly, going to the gym all the time is an unhealthy obsession” “I think placing a greater focus on personality by persuading the markets that often things, such as clothing, are often an expression of one’s personality should lead to a change in the public’s focus and nullify the problems of body-confidence.”

“Beauty is something that can be shown through attitude, how one holds one’s self, and a care in putting some effort to communicate that.

If something can show itself to aid people in expressing themselves as

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they are whether as individualism or conformity that’s good” “it is difficult to determine what is really attractive in a man from a man’s perspective aside from physical fitness. from a purely evolution basis women tend to be lumbered with predominantly physical attraction based on visible beauty, health and physical form as a precursor for child bearing suitability, whereas male attraction is far more pragmatic and based upon protection, providence and protection - usually determined by a testosterone geared facial appearance or physical prowess to initially obtain a partner which is actually at odds with a more gentle and paternal nature more conducive for long term child rearing or fidelity.”

“Not just looks, perhaps, scenarios in how they are seen in the real world, with jobs, student life, etc.”

“Trying to think of things that could be said to overcome our current generations massive bias is a daunting task. It’s been ingrained in us for nearly all our lives that thin = good and now some people are sick of it. I’d say it’s a case of nurture and not nature, ie if we hadn’t been subjected to any part of the media while growing up we wouldn’t have been brainwashed into only liking skinny/ chiseled models.

It needs to be nipped in the bud at a young age! Kids should always be taught that it’s you as a person that’s beautiful. /essay”

APPENDIX:FOCUS GROUP CONSENT FORMS

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APPENDIX:FOCUS GROUP TRANSCRIPT The aim of the focus group was to receive opinions and insights into various advertisements targeted to male consumers in order to gain an understanding into how to strategise my project proposal.

There were eight male participants between the ages of 19 to 25. All participants had previously completed my online survey and had already acquired an understanding into the context of my research.

Me: I’m going to pass around these print adverts from French Connection’s spring 2010 campaign.

Let me know what each of you think of the adverts.

Josh: Quite unusual. He’s pretty raggedy.

Chris: He looks like a caveman in nice clothes.

Craig: I think it’s quite ironic.

Tom: I don’t think I would aspire to be him. He looks like a villain.

Harry: He doesn’t look happy.

Daryl: I think.. they want us to be stupid. He looks like a neanderthal. It’s not really the right message, to be fair.

It looks like they want us to be stupid.

Grow a beard like Desmond from Lost and.. is that it?

Me: Bear in mind, this poster is just one out of a series. The broken English is meant to be in the style of narration from old French cinema.

Chris: Still feels very 1960s. Like a predated 1960s ideal of masculinity.

Tom: It’s all quite pretentious. Doesn’t help that it’s black and white either.

Adds to the dated feel.

Me: The ad agency behind this do admit to drawing on classic gender stereotypes for this campaign. But how do they translate to you as a consumer?

Especially when you have one type of male - the very metrosexual kind often seen in Calvin Klein adverts and then you have this man here.

Tom: He does have a beard. You don’t see a lot of beards in advertising.

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Me: They’re coming back into trend now.

Harry: Yeah they are.

Me: Think John Lewis.

Tom: All the recent adverts I can think of don’t have beards.

Will: I think this advert is different.

It sticks two fingers up at most other adverts, I think.

Me: In a good way?

Will: Sorta takes the piss out of other adverts. Like a parody.

Craig: It’s a parody because people can recognise that this is ‘wrong,’ y’know, saying, “This is the man.”

Ben: Like the Stella adverts were very sixties and dated, but to the point where they were just silly.

Josh: I think they’re purposefully trying to show you something that’s absurd. And it makes you feel that you should be in on the joke, and you should be clever enough to do so.

Harry: I don’t feel like I’m in on the joke. Whatever the joke is. You can clearly see there’s a joke here, but more of an in-joke between the advertisers themselves.

Ben: In this, I just feel the humour is arrogant.

Harry: None of the words have more than one syllable. It makes men out to be simple. And stupid.

Josh: Unless you give them the benefit of the doubt that they’re doing it ironically.

Me: Because the French Connection campaign from that season were purposefully drawing on classic gender stereotypes and therefore the adverts were gender-segregated and targeted specifically to you, do you feel empowered by looking at this at all?

Craig: No. Daryl: It’s more insulting than anything.

Tom: I wouldn’t say I was outright insulted by it but I wouldn’t feel inclined to buy anything from them either.

Me: You can’t relate to this advert in any way then?

Tom: No. If I saw this on a bus stop, I would glance at it and carry on. It wouldn’t affect me.

Daryl: I just think, what is it selling?

Chris: The clothes are so dark!

Me: Funny enough, this campaign was also made with the intention to draw more attention to the brand’s design and craftmanship.

Chris: The words are written all over the clothes.

Josh: You’re drawn to his face, and how scruffy he looks.

Me: I read somewhere that they won an award for this, and they had increased sales turnover.

Daryl: Oh God. Josh: Well it would have got them noticed.

Me: Why do you think their sales increased although none of you like this advert?

Ben: It’s so absurd, people will still talk about it.

Josh: People will talk about the new French Connection adverts because of how different they are. Regardless of whether it’s an advert for their product, as long as it’s an advert for their name.

Me: What’s so different about it? Is it the model choice? Or the words?

Josh: It’s aspirational.

Me: The womens’ adverts are in colour.

The mens’ are in black and white. Why do you think that is, because I don’t know either.

Will: Black and white is simple.

Me: Overall, would you say you feel empowered or insulted by this advert?

Tom: Neither.

Harry: Almost so unempowered, I’d go for insulted as a preference.

Will: It’s an original advert but I would have never had guessed it was for a designer.

Harry: I mean, what is it selling?

Obviously, clothes but like we said earlier, you can barely see the clothes.

It’s clearly not selling a lifestyle either.

Josh: But it is an effective advert though. Because if you saw it in a fashion magazine, you would stop and look to see what it was advertising.

Tom: You feel compelled to find out more.

Me: They probably intentionally made it to be vague and absurd then?

Tom: Maybe.

Harry: Yeah, to draw people in...

Sometimes though, if it’s a really witty and funny advert, I’ll think of going out and buying what they’re selling.

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In response to Dove’s ‘Real Beauty Sketches’ video commercial and Southern Comfort’s ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ commercial.

Tom: I liked that advert so much.

That actually made me go out and buy Southern Comfort. That amused me.

Me: This advert is interesting. Because it’s the only advert that addresses bodily diversity with next-to-no criticism, unlike Dove. Like their latest forensic sketch one.

Tom: So this advert was criticised?

Me: It was lauded and criticised at the same time.

[Dove commercial clip] Tom: You NEED someone to tell you you’re beautiful. It was really patronising, I thought.

Harry: But I thought it was really nice.

Will: Once again, what are they selling?

Me: Dove have their own charity project called The Self-Esteem Fund.

Will: So if you buy Dove soap you’ll look better?

Chris: That’s more brand awareness than selling a specific product.

Harry: Yeah, definitely. But it was a positive message to associate with that brand.

Tom: I’d like the idea if it wasn’t done by a company, it’s an interesting experiment.

Harry: What difference does it make if it were a big company or not?

Tom: It just feels like there’s an underhand motive there.

Me: Obviously, Dove are a profitled company at the end of the day. Although the product they’re advertising isn’t tangible, it just goes to show the creative ways companies go about advertising.

Josh: I think they’ve approached the topic of self-esteem well. For one they didn’t solely use women just in their mid-twenties. But the end message is still the same: “You are more beautiful than you think.” The importance is

still on physical beauty.

Me: What did you think of the woman’s message at the end? About how our appearance is so critical in all our life decisions?

Daryl: Well that’s just saying, buy Dove products. If you don’t you’ll look like the first picture, if you do, you’ll look like the second.

Me: But there are women who look like the first pictures?

Ben: Clearly they’re not using enough Dove.

Tom: Dove won’t help them.

Josh: That’s why I had an issue with the final message. It’s good but it’s getting

ZAMORA, G. (2013). Two sketches from Dove’s ‘Real Beauty Sketches’ campaign. Dove [online].

Available at: http://realbeautysketches.dove.com/images/pic2-back.jpg [Accessed: 19 January 2014.]

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towards that, it’s still saying physical beauty is paramount.

Tom: None of the people in the advert you would call objectively ugly. There are ugly people out there in the world.

Josh: I can understand why Dove are doing what they’re doing. But they’re selling beauty as something that we want. Because they sell beauty products.

Daryl: And you can tell it’s an American advert, because the American media just love to pull at your heartstrings, like with the music choice. That annoys me as well. I don’t think in a UK version, anyone would cry over a second portrait of themselves.

Me: So how do you think this advert would have played out if it were all men describing each other?

Harry: First picture would be better maybe?

Daryl: It would be like the UK version that I said. There would probably be a comedic theme.

Tom: I think you would have had less detail in pictures. There were two men there, but they said a sentence and completely vanished.

Me: Yeah, why are there men there to describe some of the women?

Shouldn’t a project like this be exclusively female?

Tom: Would it have been different if a woman was sketching?

Me: Would you agree men are less critical of themselves?

Harry: Yes, definitely.

Tom: There’s less pressure on men.

Harry: I think we’re more acceptant of the fact we’re gonna look bad by the age of the fifty. Where women don’t wanna believe it. We all know it from the second we’re born and we just accept it. ‘Deal with it’ is a massive part of being a bloke, in society.

Men: Would you say men are more realists?

Harry: Maybe it’s the opposite. We’re less likely to communicate things also.

So if a guy thinks he looks bad, he won’t communicate it.

Me: Do you think a lack of communication is negative though?

Harry: Maybe, but that’s just how gender roles have been socialised.

[Southern Comfort video clip] Josh: He looks like the butt of the joke.

The whole thing is that he’s a fat old man.

Tom: But he does it so cool.

Harry: That’s the thing, he knows, but he’s having a good time.

Me: Yeah he’s been deliberately styled uncool, from the shades to the wading shoes.. but he still has girls checking him out and dogs following him..

Harry: That’s the point of the advert isn’t it. Whatever’s comfortable. Who cares. Chill out. Buy some Southern Comfort.

Josh: Alcohol adverts rarely focus on appearance. It’s usually about a joke, like WKD. Something that makes you go, that’s cool.

Me: It is unusual that they are taking this stance.

Harry: It’s easier to understand the joke here. The whole message was really clear. It’s not going to make you look cool, you’re not going to be any more attractive. But who cares, chill out.

[Southern Comfort second and third video commercial clips] Harry: I don’t like it as much.

Ben: But the confidence is cool.

Josh: I’m a bit cynical. It’s like they’re not trying to advertise anything to you, they’re just trying to entertain you.

Me: But isn’t that the point of adverts?

They’re meant to catch your attention.

Josh: But it’s like the Cadbury’s advert, which had nothing to do with chocolate.

Me: But you remember them being Cadbury’s adverts.

Josh: Yeah if you put something absurd in front of people and distract them then stick a brand name at the end of it people are more likely to remember you.

Me: Do you feel the Southern Comfort adverts are doing exactly that?

Josh: Yeah sort of. Like the Old Spice adverts. They were fantastic adverts though. They were a parody too.

Me: The Old Spice advert and the French Connection ones do seem to have similarities on how demanding they are.

Josh: The Old Spice joke was that he was so absurd, and he was mocking the expectations of men. Because no guy can be that cool. I think that’s why 46

so many liked it. It was a joke people were in on.

Tom: They’ve taken a new direction though, with a new guy. If an advert can make me laugh, it’s a good advert.

Me: So in my survey, I asked if seeing more diverse role models in the media would affect your self esteem, and quite a few people said not really.

However, when I asked for suggestions at the end, a lot of people suggested the incorporation of more diverse role models or the promotion of character and charisma. Having said that, media wasn’t the biggest impactor to self esteem. Friends and family were. Closely followed by TV and film, which are forms of media. I do find that with the Southern Comfort advert, they have a good message going on, it would be more effective if it was taken offline though.

Harry: I can imagine the Southern Comfort advert working really well in print.

Me: They do have print adverts, but they don’t have the characters in.

Just the little flags saying ‘Whatever’s Comfortable.’

Tom: I think it would be really cool if you could buy the flags, with your drink or something.

Josh: I’ve never seen the print ad. But I guess you need to watch the TV commercial first to understand the print anyway.

Me: So Tom, you said you went out and bought a bottle after seeing this advert. Why? Tom: I just thought for what it was, it was a really cool advert. It wasn’t pushy.

Chris: There wasn’t a whole lot going on either.

Tom: No but the song isn’t.. annoying.

Not like the Go Compare advert. And even Old Spice, I went out and bought that after seeing the ad.

Harry: Yeah like the Coors Light advert as well. Same with Southern Comfort. I can see they have a sense of humour, and I appreciate that. So if I were in a situation where I could choose between Coors and a similar priced beer, I would choose Coors because of the advert. It didn’t MAKE me go out and buy it. But it upped my estimation of them, so I chose it over

a competitor.

[Coors Light commercial clip] Harry: See they don’t take theirselves very seriously and they have a sense of humour.

Josh: Well, masculinity always seems to be the case. Far less than beauty, like in the Dove adverts. Masculinity is always a joke.

Me: Is that the best way to go about it, through humour?

Josh: Yes, men aren’t too concerned about being manly. Like, they’re so manly it’s a joke and we know misogyny is wrong.

Me: Do you think female approval of a guy is a big affector of your selfesteem?

Harry: Yes definitely. Especially like in the Southern Comfort advert, he still has girls checking him out even though he looks like that. I always respond better to ads like that. More so than the Calvin Klein, David Beckham style ads because they’re so pretentious.

Tom: The Aldi advert mocked that, that was funny.

[French Connection SS10 commercial clip] Ben: I didn’t get that at all.

Tom: I just feel like I watched a really unfunny comedy show.

Josh: It’s just a bit silly really.

Will: I think a simpler advert, the better.

Harry: I still feel like it’s a joke, and no-one’s told us the punchline.

Josh: I think the punchline is just that it’s a bit silly.

Tom: You definitely need to see the TV ad before seeing the print ad to understand it.

Daryl: Doesn’t that fail as an advert then?

Me: So adverts should be clear? Should they always have humour in it?

Tom: Not necessarily. Guinness adverts rarely have humour in them.

Me: Are there any adverts for men without humour that were memorable?

Josh: Any James Bond film is like a long advert. It’s a very aspirational thing.

Tom: Any of the Guinness ones, like the horses one. And the reason why it’s black and white is because the

actual drink is that colour.

Me: So Diane Abbott recently claimed there was a masculinity crisis in light of the recession. A lot of unemployment leading to violent behaviour etc.

Tom: The same thing happened after the War didn’t it.

Harry: I think men are under way more pressure now.

Me: She reckons there should be more one-on-one mentoring and teaching at schools the values of masculinities to try and combat this.

Tom: I think a good example is with Jacamo. They had Johnny Vegas as the face of their brand, who isn’t exactly a slim guy. Now they’ve brought in Freddie Flintoff and completely alienated their fanbase.

Me: They stock sizes up to 5XL though.

Tom: But they don’t have anybody actually modelling them.

Harry: There are normal people out but they deliberately chose overathletic people to represent them.

Josh: But you’re more likely to trust better looking people.

Craig: It’s more of a Jack-the-lad brand.

Me: If you think you nipped in the bud combatting masculinity in regards to appearance, do you reckon this is a good step in the right direction?

Harry: I think the media give both genders a very strong ideal of what they should look like.

Josh: But in male culture, there’s more emphasis on character.

Daryl: Yeah it’s more about well you dress.

Tom: How to act.

Me: So do you need advice on how to ‘be’?

Josh: Yeah it’s like James Bond again.

Tom: Yeah there’s even James Bond aftershave and all.

Me: Superheroes were a factor in this.

Tom: Yeah there was a Drink Aware advert where the man died because he tried to be the hero.

Harry: But yeah I think the Southern Comfort advert would transfer really well on a bus stop advert or billboard.

Me: What about taking their campaign to the actual bars and clubs?

Harry: That’s boring though.

Craig: They should have Southern Comfort Speedos.

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Tom: If I could find a t-shirt that had the ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ written on it, I would wear that.

Ben: Yeah.

Harry: I like the whole anti-branding of it all, like, this isn’t a cool beverage but it’s a comfortable one.

Josh: Not sure if that’s the kind of message you want to give out to men though. You still need something aspirational.

Me: So there should be a level of aspiration in every advert?

Josh: They do need to relax too though.

Tom: Do you aspire to not care or just, deal with it, and be that cool within your day-to-day.

Me: So there’s a fine line?

Josh: It’s like, Just do it, which is such a powerful statement beyond those three words. It’s a shame Nike’s taken it.

Tom: You could just make it so it becomes ‘because you can.’

Harry: I do like ‘Whatever’s Comfortable.’

Josh: ‘Whatever’s Comfortable’ feels more like the host, and ‘Because I can’ feels more like the guest.

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