Sauce Magazine // November 2018

FRIED & TRUE

the chicken sandwich at juniper, p. 9

R E V I E W THE BENEVOLENT KING P. 19

9 INTERNATIONAL GROCERY

STO R E S TO TRY N OW

ST. LOUIS’2018 INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY November

P. 38

THE ABCs O F

C B D

G U I D E T O T H E H O L I D AY S

(FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER)

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NOVEMBER 2018 • VOLUME 18, ISSUE 11 What is the essential

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER SENIOR DESIGNER ASSOCIATE EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Thanksgiving dessert?

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS An apple-cranberry cobbler. It must be on every Thanksgiving and Christmas table.

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Sweet potato pie. I Matt Sorrell always try, but mine is never like Grandma’s.

Catherine Klene Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, R.J. Hartbeck, Lauren Healey, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Lauren Healey, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Monica Obradovic, Sophie Tegenu, Jane Thier

A biscuit with mashed potatoes and gravy on it.

(I don’t like sweets.)

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whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

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EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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St. Louis, MO 63103 November 2018

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contents NOVEMBER 2018

editors' picks 9 E AT THIS Fried chicken sandwich at Juniper

by heather hughes

28 ELIXIR The orange spectrum

by heather hughes

last course

10

46 STUFF TO DO

Shae Smith of The Side Project Cellar

by monica obradovic

BARTENDER TOUR by matt sorrell

48 WHAT I D O

13

Tom Niemeier

HIT LIST

branzino at the benevolent king p. 19

by catherine klene

5 places to try this month

by heather hughes, catherine klene and matt sorrell

reviews

19 N E W AN D NOTABLE The Benevolent King

features 30

SPIRIT HOUSE by matt sorrell

by michael renner

38

22

by stephanie zeilenga

Tazé Mediterranean Street Food

44

by matt berkley

by lauren healey

LUNCH RUSH

GLOBAL GROCERIES

THE ABCs OF CBD

25

NIGHTLIFE The W Karaoke Lounge

by stephanie zeilenga

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

dine & drink 27 A SE AT AT THE BAR Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera, and ted and jamie kilgore November 2018

COVER DETAILS Fried & True The new fried chicken sandwich at Juniper is a must-try, from the tender meat to the house-made bun. Find out why you should eat this sandwich on p. 9.

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

Flip the magazine over for the Guide to the Holidays Every time Gourmet Soul’s Lavinia McCoy makes her quick caramel cake, her family thinks she's been laboring in the kitchen all day. Get this and other chef holiday recipes on p. 13.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM when Sauce’s Matt Sorrell joins Spirit House founders Ekkachai Danwanichakul and Chelsie Hellige to talk Thai dinner parties in Dogtown, and join us at the beginning of the month when we discuss the must-try new restaurants on our November Hit List.

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editors' picks

EAT THIS With its swanky new space (more light-drenched sophistication, less brick-walled barn), JUNIPER acquired a swanky new FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH. Breaded and deep-fried to a burnished chestnut, the moist, tender chicken is joined by crisp house pickles, red pepper jelly and smoked mayonnaise on a house-baked benne seed bun. Resist the PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO

option to “make it hot” with a douse of Nashville-style chili oil. This sandwich taught us that super smoky mayo and sweet-and-spicy pepper jelly need only each other – and us.

JUNIPER, 4101 LACLEDE AVE., ST. LOUIS, 314.329.7696, JUNIPEREATS.COM November 2018

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browsing through the menu looking for new tastes, though she has favorites. “The biscuit flight – let’s talk about the biscuit flight! Where else can you get one?

It’s so good!” she said, adding the polenta cake is also a frequent order.

3224 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.240.5157, davidkirklandcatering.com

bartender tour SHAE SMITH

Shae Smith, tasting room manager at The Side Project Cellar, started her career as a host at Pi Pizzeria. She eventually ended up behind the bar, which stoked her burgeoning interest in craft beer and the culinary scene. “I fell in love with the industry and didn’t look back,” she said. Four years ago, Smith’s love of beer led to an opportunity to help open Side Project. “I knew that was where I needed to be.” When she’s not on the job slinging brews, Smith likes to make the rounds, sampling fine wines, quesadillas and everything in between that St. Louis has to offer. – Matt Sorrell Small Change “Ever since Small Change opened, I’ve loved going in there in the early afternoon with my computer and catching up on emails,” Smith said of the Benton Park watering hole. “There are always dogs there, which I love. I know I can go in and get a Last Word

– my favorite cocktail – and relax a bit.”

2800 Indiana Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Small Change STL The Whiskey Ring The Whiskey Ring is one of Smith’s favorite post-shift hangs, and she especially likes to kick back on the bar’s recently finished patio.

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“I’m there all the time after work drinking Stags and fernets and unwinding after a busy day,” she said.

2651 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.669.5817, thewhiskeyring.business. site Louie “It’s a nice place to sit by yourself at the bar

and drink delicious wine and eat some amazing pizza,” Smith said. For Smith, the service is the epitome of above and beyond.

“One of the first times I was there, I saw the manager take off his jacket and give it to someone sitting on the patio because she was cold. I was like, ‘Is this a real place?’”

706 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8188, louiedemun.com

The Civil Life Brewing Co. “I live within walking distance, so we go to Civil Life a lot on Sundays. We call it church. Some of us meet up there and just drink Civil Life – what could be better?” she said. “If I can go to Civil Life and drink a beer and have a little bit of wine after, it’s kind of a dream.”

3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, thecivillife.com

Vegetarian As a vegetarian, Smith has several places she frequents for meatfree meals. “I love SweetArt,” she said.

“It’s impossible to leave that place without getting cupcakes or brownies, and if you’re lucky enough, one of their cinnamon rolls.” Other favorites include Living Room in Maplewood (“They have awesome veggie options.”), Lona’s Lil Eats (“That bamboo stew is so good!”) and one particular guilty pleasure: “I love Taco Bell,” she said. “I’m a sucker for quesadillas.

I try not to eat it too much, but sometimes you just need it. And, as a vegetarian, it’s easier for me to eat there than most other [fast-food] places.”

Turn “I like brunch a lot,” Smith said, and one of her go-to a.m. eateries is Turn in Grand Center. She enjoys November 2018

PORTRAIT BY R.J. HARTBECK; SMALL CHANGE AND CIVIL LIFE PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

above: the civil life brewing co.; below: small change; the side project cellar, 7373 marietta Ave., maplewood, 314.224.5211, thesideprojectcellar.com

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hit list

5 new places to try this month

pork chop at 58hundred

58HUNDRED

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Nestled on a quiet stretch of Southwest Avenue, 58hundred looks like another house on the residential street. The full bar and quality beer list are sure to attract neighbors for a weeknight drink, and the solid American fare is worth staying for. Classic dishes range from a burger and grilled cheese to more composed entrees like grilled salmon and a pork chop. Order the shrimp po’boy: a substantial sandwich of tender shrimp with an exceptional Sriracha remoulade. Or opt for the Amish chicken: a roasted half bird served with a muffin-sized serving of mushroom-leek bread pudding, as well as creamed orzo, which is like an indulgent pasta risotto. The homey atmosphere and menu make this new restaurant from the owners and chef of The Block another crowdpleasing neighborhood spot.

5800 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.279.5799, 58hundred.com

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SZE CHUAN CUISINE

clockwise, from left, black pepper beef, summer rolls and massaman beef curry from thai table

The concept of this national chain speaks for itself: Create your own ice cream sandwiches with the option to have the whole mess heated up for a warm cookie/cold ice cream dream. Choose from more than a dozen ice cream flavors to sandwich between cookies (we like the peanut butter) with your choice of toppings from Fruity Pebbles to hot fudge. Our favorite combination was a brownie-espresso bean ice cream sandwich. The brownie was fudgy, soft and spoonable even without warming it, and the espresso bean ice cream had a great smooth texture and pitch-perfect coffee flavor with no bitterness.

THE BAKED BEAR

6140 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.578.8576, thebakedbear.com

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58hundred is at 5800 southwest ave.; the brussels sprouts tacos on the starters menu at 58hundred

7930 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.925.8711

630 N. New Ballas Road, Creve Coeur, 314.731.6735, pokemunchstl.com

Along with the usual American favorites, like pad kee mao and some seriously good pad thai, Maplewood’s newest Thai place offers a number of exceptional specialties. Don’t miss the nam tok beef – tender sliced steak tossed with red onion in a spicy lime-based dressing, served with lettuce and sticky rice to cool the palate. The massaman beef is another standout with beef slow-cooked in a rich, peanuty coconut-based curry broth you’ll want to drink from the bowl.

THAI TABLE

7403 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.449.6919, thaitablestl.com November 2018

58HUNDRED PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY; THAI TABLE PHOTOS BY LAUREN HEALEY

It takes gumption to open a Chinese chain on Olive Boulevard in University City, home to some of the finest Asian restaurants in the St. Louis area. But this new kid on the block has already attracted attention for its expansive menu.

There are plenty of meat dishes to choose from, including thinly sliced sauteed beef with lingering, numbing heat from Sichuan peppercorns to extra spicy braised lamb stir-fried with serrano peppers and cilantro.

Seafood runs the gamut from whole fish preparations to shellfish. There are even a couple dishes showcasing frogs as the main event. Don’t overlook the veggie dishes, which are every bit as flavorful and dynamic as their meaty counterparts – like the deceptively simple eggplant, served in the most fragrant and piquant of garlic sauces, and the salted crispy tofu with ideal texture, seasoned to perfection. Think julienned sauteed potatoes can’t be a joyous culinary experience? Think again.

thai table’s pad thai

St. Louis’ poke wave has POKE MUNCH crashed into Creve Coeur.

Options abound in this build-your-own roll or bowl menu, but we’re partial to the signature dishes. Each bowl or roll includes a bed of sushi rice, sliced Persian cucumber and fresh vegetables like spring greens or shredded cabbage and carrots.

The Kilauea Krunch is best with crisp tempura shrimp stashed atop a dollop of spicy crab salad, avocado, and unagi and fried onion sauces. Heat things up with Maui’s Fury featuring raw ahi tuna and salmon, jalapenos and a spicy mayobased sauce tempered by avocado and sweet onions. The meat-free Avocoloco includes sweet chili tofu and shiitake mushrooms mixed with pickled yellow daikon, edamame, avocado, sesame seeds and a creamy ginger-mayo sauce.

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

lamb meatballs at the benevolent king

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

the benevolent king

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JONSHON

W h at d o e s a J a m e s B e a r d n o m i n at e d c h e f and enterprising restaurateur do after opening six restaurants with just as many culinary concepts in less than six years? If you’re Ben Poremba, you get back in the kitchen and look to your childhood. Poremba’s vision, cooking skill and design aesthetic have shaped our culinary scene since he and Mark Sanfilippo opened Salume Beddu 10 years ago. (He’s since sold his interest in the artisanal salumeria.) With Elaia, Olio and Old Standard Fried

new and notable THE BENEVOLENT KING p. 19 / lunch rush TA ZÉ p. 22 / nightlife THE Wsaucemagazine.com K AR AOKE LOUNGE p. 25 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

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a slow burn – served mixed with yogurt for split pea falafel or upon request.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. The Benevolent King is as much a cocktail destination as it is a restaurant. Poremba recruited seasoned barman Tony Saputo (Layla, Atomic Cowboy) not only to manage the place but also design and execute the extensive beverage program.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

Order the Rex, a potent concoction of rye, bourbon, allspice and cloveinfused curaçao, housethe dining blended Barolo vermouth room at the and Jerry Thomas bitters. benevolent It tastes amazing, like a king Manhattan in Casablanca.

It costs $18.

Chicken (which he closed to open the modern Mexican concept Nixta), Poremba transformed the corner of Tower Grove and McCree avenues into a popular dining destination. Then there was the FrenchItalian Parigi, which just closed in Clayton.

Now there is The Benevolent King, Poremba’s Moroccan-inspired restaurant and cocktail bar, nestled between Acero and Kakao Chocolate in Maplewood.

Inside, the floor-to-ceiling mirrors of the previous occupant, Water Street Cafe, make the small room feel more spacious (if a bit discomfiting when sitting along the main wall). The open kitchen and cozy side bar also remain, as does the beautiful terrazzo floor. But the eclectic decor is all Poremba: sleek black walls, straight-back Italian and classic French

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bistro chairs, gold and brass accents and many glimmering candles.

The restaurant’s name references Morocco’s Sultan Mohammed V, whose benevolence toward Moroccan Jews during World War II saved their community from German Nazis and French Vichists (Poremba’s mother is Moroccan and his father survived the Holocaust.). Known for hiring top-rated executive chefs at his other restaurants, Benevolent King represents Poremba’s return to his roots as a cook.

Here, it’s the food he likes to make at home, much like he grew up cooking with his mother in his native Israel.

If you’re looking for the best harissa, a staple North African chili paste, you may have found it – crimson and nutty with

Where 7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0440, thebenevolentking. com

If you’ve never dined at a Poremba restaurant, you’d be forgiven for sticker shock. The candle budget is probably sky high, and the pricey cocktails ($10 to $18) do incorporate a lot of house-made ingredients. Luckily, the bar will make you a custom cocktail for $10 after 9 p.m.

Regardless, you’ll want another. I suggest The Benevolent if you’re in the mood for an extra-cold martini made with an aromatic London Dry gin, house-made vermouth and orange bitters ($15).

The food may seem familiar if you’ve eaten at Olio, Poremba’s wine bar featuring “Middleterranean” fare.

But here, there’s more Morocco than Israel coming out of the tiny kitchen.

Salatim (cold mezze and spreads at three for $20 and five for $30), snacks, larger plates and desserts make up the grazeworthy menu. You’d do well to mix and match, taking advice from your server.

A small order of salatim and a couple snacks is good place begin.

All tables should be required to order briouat, aka crispy Moroccan cigars of crackly, papery fried phyllo stuffed with turmeric, cinnamon and honeyspiced chicken (or sardines, harissa and preserved lemon). Ikra caviar dip – the

Don’t-Miss Dishes Branzino, lamb meatballs

Vibe Jewel box-sized space full of energy and problematic acoustics when it fills up

milder, less pungent Balkan version of Greek taramasalata – captured the brininess of fish roe tamed by snowywhite creme fraiche drizzled with grassy green olive oil. Cubes of cantaloupe spiced with hot pepper and cilantro vinaigrette thrilled, while nibbles of cauliflower and zucchini tossed in tahini with capers, currants and sunflower seeds seemed so simple yet tasted so complex.

Such simplicity extended to the main dishes with big results. Whole branzino (a Mediterranean sea bass) baked with nothing more than lemon and capers made for a dramatic presentation on its bed of roasted chicory. Two giant lamb meatballs nestled in fluffy couscous seemed simple enough until the smoked tomato sauce, fragrant with warming, traditional Moroccan spices, kicked in with notes of cumin, ginger, clove and chili.

Carrots, sliced length-wise, were chargrilled to a concentrated sweetness and drizzled with chili oil and elderflower vinegar, served next to a dollop of creamy yogurt. A sprinkling of dried Urfa pepper gave the dish a beguiling smoky-salty-sour depth. Not since Vicia has the lowly carrot been elevated to such superstar status. In comparison, a single beef kebab between chunks of grilled eggplant, potato and zucchini failed to impress – mostly because it was too meager for its $18 price tag.

At 8:30 on a Saturday night, a DJ commenced spinning a throb of disco hits, though there was no room to swing your hips. After dinner, a couple moved to the bar to sip digestifs. A table ordered nearly every small plate on the menu after passing around many cocktails.

Whether you go for dinner and stay for drinks or go for drinks and eat a little something, The Benevolent King knows what you want.

Entree Price $10 to $36

When Tue. to Thu. – 5 to 11 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. – 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

LUNCH RUSH

tazé mediterranean street food

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

Classic Middle Eastern and Mediterranean favorites are dished up quickly from the build-your-own menu of Tazé Mediterranean Street Food. Since its launch in 2015, the sleek restaurant, meticulously laid out by Space Architecture & Design, has become a popular downtown lunch option – so much so that it expanded with another roaring hot tandoor oven in the Central West End.

FLAVORED HUMMUS AND PITA CHIPS A generous scoop comes with every meal, but hummus is also available a la carte.

Signature flavors bring the dish to a new level. The sweet, zesty caramelized onionbalsamic was my favorite with a smooth glaze of onions slowly caramelized in butter and house-made balsamic – but the jalapeno-cilantro was a spicier option also worth your time. The bright green drizzle of spicy hot freshness goes well with thick-cut pita chips, flash-fried in-house and served hot.

TAZÉ HOUSE SALAD WITH GYRO

TANDOOR CHICKEN MEAL

The house salad is essentially a Greek – loaded with fresh greens and cucumbers, hunks of tomato, Kalamata olive slices, thick chunks of feta and a sprinkling of red onion.

Served with an understated house lemon vinaigrette (balsamic is also available), it’s a solid foundation for any of the meats you can add for a small upcharge. I especially enjoyed making this a heartier salad with a hot, generous heap of savory lamb and beef gyro meat.

Standard meal options give the choice of greens, saffron rice or pita bread as a base for a variety of proteins.

Start with the standard white pita, baked in-house.

Of the proteins, the yogurtmarinated tandoor chicken breast is particularly tender and alive with ginger, turmeric and heavy flavors of garam masala. Top that with the tzatziki, a smooth blend of Greek yogurt, cucumber and mint and get it fully dressed

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FALAFEL These crispy, deep-fried spheres of greatness are prepared simply with garbanzo and fava beans soaked overnight then mixed with salt, parsley and a handful of greens before being flash fried. Crunchy as a down-home hushpuppy, the inside of the falafel is pillow soft. A side order pairs well with the house-made harissa, a fiery hot red sauce made from roasted red peppers, garlic, onion and a whole mess of cayenne. You’ll want to drizzle it on everything you order.

with greens, tomato, onions, feta, pepperoncini, cucumbers and pickles. Along with the complimentary hummus, the tabbouleh is an ideal side – a fresh and airy salad dish of fine bulgur, chopped parsley, mint, tomato, fresh lemon and vinegar.

THE DOWNSIDE A number of the side dishes should be avoided at all costs, including the quinoa salad, which was colorful but lacked any discernable flavor. Worse was the lentil soup – sad, wilted vegetables swimming in a bland and watery broth.

Tazé Mediterranean Street Food, 626 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.254.7953; 8½ Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7182; tazestreetfood.com

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reviews NIGHTLIFE

terrifies you (um, hi), The W provides endlessly entertaining people-watching, and the crowd tends to be supportive, The W Karaoke exuberantly Lounge 6655 Delmar cheering on Blvd., University singers.

City, 314.376.4055, thewkaraoke.com

The glamour is turned up in the private rooms, which whisk you away from the quirky Loop entirely with no windows to the outside world. What time is it? What’s going on in the common area? Who cares?

You’re VIP, baby. While the decor in the 10 rooms varies slightly, each echoes the slick look of the main space and is furnished with a large wraparound couch and plush stools, multiple large screens and a tablet for ordering drinks and food. There’s even a mini raised stage in one corner, outfitted with a golden oldschool mic fit for any wannabe diva.

NIGHTLIFE

the w karaoke lounge

BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

T

he squat brick exterior of The W Karaoke Lounge on The Delmar Loop betrays none of the glitzy world awaiting inside. The W shimmers with low, neon-specked lighting playing against a proliferation of reflective and crystal surfaces.

Dark wood paneling, art decoinspired decor and staff dressed

O R D E R T H I S November 2018

in crisp, white shirts balance the bedazzled look, resulting in a glamorous ambiance evoking Singapore or Hong Kong more than St. Louis.

Crooners have two options at The W – sing to a crowd of strangers in the main bar or book a private room and limit the embarrassment to a close circle of

friends. In the common area, the slightly raised stage is set against the backdrop of an oversized curved screen displaying lyrics and music videos so anyone can dance and sing along. Although not much can be done about the varied quality of singers who take the stage (some are very good!), the karaoke system is state-of-the-art, loaded with hundreds of thousands of songs in multiple languages. Even if the idea of singing karaoke

from left, the moscow mule and the manhattan at the w

The staff makes sure the VIP experience isn’t limited to the room itself. At the beginning of your private session, someone patiently explains how the system works so you don’t have to waste time tinkering with it yourself. They are attentive without intruding on the privacy of the group’s singing session, popping in only occasionally and never while a song is underway.

Word of advice: Book early, as the rooms fill quickly.

Liquid courage is a necessary ingredient in any successful karaoke, and The W has full bar service, including craft and imported beers, Champagne and wines. Sake is also available, delivered nestled in a clear box of neon-lit ice.

The house cocktails include solid classics such as Moscow Mules and Manhattans, but also veer toward the sweet and tropical with passion fruit, mango and lychee martinis, strawberry daquiris and piña coladas. Although sweet drinks aren’t my preference, the blood orange cosmo was well balanced and not cloying.

The food menu at The W leans heavily on typical bar food – think chicken wings, nachos, pizza, cocktail shrimp and toasted ravioli – with a few Asian-inspired dishes like edamame. Nothing special, but who has ever turned their nose up at greasy bar food after downing a few drinks?

There is a $10 cover charge on weekend nights (waived if you’ve booked a private room), and the private rooms start at $58 an hour and can accommodate between eight and 25 guests.

Some establishments look glitzy, but upon closer inspection, it’s all chintzy and cheap. That’s not the case at The W Karaoke Lounge, where everything looks, feels and sounds like a sophisticated, crazy-good time.

the w bar shimmers with low lighting reflecting against crystal surfaces.

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dine

& drink dry vignoles from adam puchta winery perfectly complements turkey, stuffing and cranberries.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake An oldie but a goodie, Dubonnet Rouge just got an update. The aperitif’s renovation features a base of muscat wine, more quinine, black currant and tea. It offers nutty, light bitterness, dark red fruit and increased tannins wrapped up TED AND JAMIE in a shiny, retro label. Enjoy it KILGORE in Queen Elizabeth II’s favorite USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart drink, the Dubonnet Cocktail. and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House In an ice-filled shaker, stir 2 ounces Dubonnet Rouge and 1 ounce Gordon’s gin. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist. $20. Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com November 2018

This year, my Thanksgiving wine pick is Dry Vignoles from the Adam Puchta Winery in Hermann. This stunningly balanced white won gold medal and Best of Class Dry White at the 2018 GLENN BARDGETT Missouri Wine Competition.

Member of the Missouri Wine It exudes gloriously fragrant and Grape Board and wine citrus aromas reminiscent director at Annie Gunn’s of SweeTarts and has a juicy, mouth-watering acidity with the right touch of fruitiness. This crowd-pleasing blend perfectly complements turkey, stuffing and cranberries. $15. Friar Tuck Beverage, 9053 Watson Road, Crestwood, 314.918.9230, friartuckonline.com

No beer prepares you for the holiday season better than a caffeinated, maltforward brew like Hotbox Coffee Porter. This newly year-round coffee bomb from Oskar Blues Brewery is a dream come true with KATIE HERRERA notes of Hotbox Roasters Director of beer at STL cold brew on the nose.

Barkeep and account manager at Craft Republic Medium-bodied and dry, its coffee-forward palate is balanced with hints of roasted, bittersweet chocolate, a touch of burnt caramel and a delicate array of dried fruit. Six-pack: $9. Lukas Wine and Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

All bottles available at Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com

WINE

THE OR ANGE SPECTRUM B Y H E AT H E R H U G H E S

Orange wine has a reputation for being weird and funky. If you’re not a wine person, you might not know what the style is, and strangeness can cause distrust.

“There’s a misconception about orange wine,” said Alisha Blackwell-Calvert, certified sommelier and Reeds American Table beverage director. “Believe it or not, a lot of people think that orange wine is made from oranges. So, that’s the first hurdle – orange wine is made from grapes.”

Whether it’s because no one wants a chemistry lesson when they’re just trying to order a drink or we’ve been made to feel stupid by snotty oenophiles, we don’t ask enough questions when it comes to wine.

Even winos don’t all know that the color of wine comes from grape skins, not juice.

Orange wines come from white grapes made in a red style, meaning they’re fermented with the skins. Think of super light rosés – that translucent, faint pink is made with red grapes but limited skin contact. It’s skin contact that makes reds red, rosés pink, whites (fermented without grape skins) white and orange wines – you get the idea.

With skin contact comes more tannins, a bigger body and that carroty color. Many different varietals and different amounts of time with the grape skins make for a whole spectrum of color and character.

These wines vary from bottles that totally pass as whites (perhaps with a deeper golden tinge and a mysterious, soulful gravitas) to wild, tannic natural wines that look like Sunkist.

2013 CRADLE OF WINE GOGI’S WINE “This is a really good example of true, traditional orange wine,” Blackwell-Calvert said. It comes from the country of Georgia, which has the oldest winemaking tradition in the world and, like Slovenia and northern Italy, is known for extended skin-contact wines. “It’s an intense wine – not for the faint of heart,” BlackwellCalvert said. “It’s nutty – there’s not a whole lot of fruit – but it still has a lot of acidity that makes it great with food. This one definitely needs food.”

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2017 CACIQUE MARAVILLA VINO NARANJA “This is an orange wine that actually tastes like oranges,” Blackwell-Calvert said. The unfiltered Chilean bottle is made from moscatel grapes (a relative of moscato) and has a cloudy, pale orange color. If you like sour beers, Blackwell-Calvert said you’ll enjoy sipping on this citrusy, floral glass.

2011 EDI SIMCIC SAUVIGNON Medium straw in color, this Slovenian orange looks and tastes like a white wine. “It’s a great place to start for people who are just getting into skin contact,” Blackwell-Calvert said. “You get all those aromatic notes people really like about sauvignon blanc – the acid is there, the fruit is there – but because of that extended skin contact, it has a rich, voluptuous body and creamy mouth feel.”

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PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

We asked Blackwell-Calvert to recommend an allorange rainbow that shows how diverse the style can be.

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S P I R I T

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H O U S E Some of St. Louis' best Thai food is served at Dogtown dinner parties

T H R EE - FL AVO R FISH RECIPE ON P. 36

B Y M AT T S O R R E L L // P H O T O S B Y I Z A I A H J O H N S O N November 2018

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real deal to St. Louis. “We thought, ‘What can we do to show our St. Louis friends what home-cooked Thai food is like?’” Hellige said.

“Instead of complaining, we decided to contribute.”

They started hosting dinner parties for a handful of friends in their charming bungalow near Dogtown, showcasing an array of Thai dishes from fried pomfret, a white fish popular in Asia, to khao kluk kapi, a dish of fried rice and shrimp paste.

FOOD BROUGHT E K K AC H A I D A N WA N I C H A K U L AND CHELSIE HELLIGE TO G E T H E R .

They met 13 years ago, when he was a server at The King and I and she was his customer. The now-married couple almost missed their chance when Hellige’s number got smudged on the receipt she left for Danwanichakul. But he kept an eye out – and that ruined

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note to show her when she returned to the restaurant.

Now, the two frequently visit Danwanichakul’s native Thailand to spend time with family and indulge in elaborate Thai feasts, which Hellige jokingly called “eating the gauntlet.”

Home in St. Louis, though, the couple hasn’t found a place that replicates the traditional cuisine they enjoy in Thailand. As Danwanichakul explained,

much legit Thai food sounds simple but takes a lot of time to execute, like khao tom mat, a time-honored dessert made of steamed sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. He said the dish takes a couple of days to prep and a small restaurant sweating the bottom line couldn’t afford to put it on the menu in its bona fide form.

So the couple decided to take matters into their own hands and bring the

What started out as a private affair quickly morphed into the “secret supper” pop-up series called Spirit House that debuted this summer.

Dinners are scheduled on a weekly or biweekly basis and announced via Instagram (@spirithousestl) and email. The eight seats at the couple’s dining table get snapped up quickly.

Danwanichakul prepares all the food as traditionally as possible using the home’s cozy kitchen, a small prep station on the sun porch and the gas grill and a wok in the backyard. Sometimes dishes are plated and coursed, but more often they’re served family-style in the old-school Thai way.

The parties are definitely a labor of love and not a money-making concern – guests contribute just enough to cover the cost of the event.

As far as the future of Spirit House, there isn’t a longterm plan. Hellige said they’ll continue the series through the winter. After that, “We’ll see where it goes.” instagram: @spirithousestl

clockwise, from top left: the ingredients for flash-fried water spinach; green curr y chicken; the spirit house table; chelsie hellige, ekkachai danwanichakul and their dog sputnik; a spirit house dinner in dogtown; danwanichakul fr ying omelets; a fr ying whole fish; danwanichakul cooking in his backyard

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FLASH-FRIED WAT E R S P I N A C H RECIPE ON P. 35

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RECIPES Recipes courtesy of Spirit House’s Ekkachai Danwanichakul

LAO BEEF STEW WITH DILL

THAI OMELET WITH SOUR PORK SAUSAGE

(OR LAM)

(KHAI JEOW NAEM)

4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 TO 4 SERVINGS

2 stalks lemongrass, finely chopped 4 to 6 shallots, finely chopped 6 to 8 red and green Thai chilies, finely chopped 2 tsp. vegetable oil 1 lb. stew-cut beef 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. Pantai Norasingh pickled gouramy fish, cream style 4 dashes Squid brand fish sauce 4 to 6 Thai eggplants, quartered 1 cup halved wood ear mushrooms 1 cup Nameko mushrooms, bottoms removed 2 cups chopped potato greens or other leafy Asian greens 1 to 2 cups whole fresh dill fronds 1 to 2 cups whole lemon basil leaves Steamed jasmine rice, for serving

3 to 4 eggs 1 to 2 dashes Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce 1 to 2 dashes Maekrua oyster sauce ½ cup ¼-inch sliced Champ nam sausage with pork rinds ¹∕³ cup vegetable oil Steamed jasmine rice and Sriracha, for serving

• In a food processor or using a mortar and pestle, lightly mash the lemongrass, shallots and chilies, leaving some chunks (not a fine paste).

• Add the oil to a stockpot over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the lemongrass mixture and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the beef and salt and brown on all sides, 5 to 10 minutes.

• Add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch, then add the pickled fish and fish sauce. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, stirring to make sure the pickled fish fully dissolves. Add the eggplants and mushrooms and return the mixture to a boil.

• Remove the eggplants and mash in a bowl. Return them to the pot and reduce the heat to medium or medium-low. Add the greens, dill and lemon basil.

• Cover and gently simmer 1 hour.

Season to taste with more salt or fish sauce, if needed. Serve with jasmine rice.

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• In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, Golden Mountain sauce and oyster sauce until well combined. Add the sausage and stir.

• Add the oil to a wok over high heat and roll the wok to coat the sides with oil. When the oil is very hot, add the egg mixture and use a metal wok spatula to pull the cooked egg toward the middle, so raw egg rolls out to cook as well. Once the bottom is set, less than 1 minute, reduce the heat to medium. Carefully flip the omelet with the spatula and remove from heat. Let rest 30 seconds, until the bottom is cooked through.

• Serve immediately with jasmine rice and Sriracha on the side.

GREEN CURRY CHICKEN (GAENG KEOW WAN GAI)

6 SERVINGS

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 4-oz. cans Maesri Thai green curry paste 6 boneless chicken thighs, each chopped into 3 pieces 4 to 5 chicken drumsticks (roughly chopped or whole) 1½ tsp. kosher salt 3¾ cups water

1 13.5-oz. can coconut cream 1 13.5-oz. can coconut milk 2 50-g. palm sugar cakes, mashed with a mortar and pestle (or 100 g. granulated palm sugar) 4 to 6 Thai eggplants, quartered 2 to 4 kaffir lime leaves 1 cup whole sweet Thai basil leaves ½ cup red fresno peppers, sliced lengthwise into quarters Steamed jasmine rice, for serving • Add the vegetable oil to a stock pot over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the green curry paste and stir until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

• Add the chicken thighs, drumsticks and salt and brown on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes.

• Add the water, coconut cream, coconut milk and palm sugar and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the eggplants and lime leaves, then reduce the heat to low and simmer 1 hour.

• Add the basil and peppers, stir and cook 10 more minutes.

• Serve with jasmine rice.

FLASH-FRIED WATER SPINACH (PAK BOONG FAI DAENG)

2 SERVINGS

½ bunch water spinach (also called ong choy), chopped into 2-inch pieces 4 to 6 red and green Thai chilies, chopped 2 to 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 Tbsp. Pantai Norasingh soybean paste 3 dashes Healthy Boy thin soy sauce 1 tsp. Michiu Chinese cooking wine 1 tsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil Steamed jasmine rice, for serving • Place the water spinach on a large plate. Add the chilies, garlic, soybean paste, soy sauce, cooking wine and sugar.

• Heat the oil in a wok over high heat until the oil smokes, 3 to 5 seconds.

Add the water spinach and toss until the spinach wilts, about 15 seconds to 1 minute. Remove from heat.

• Serve immediately with jasmine rice.

TIP If you plan to serve more than two people, the flash-fried water spinach and stir-fried holy basil with ground pork are best made in multiple small batches instead of making too much at once.

Otherwise, they won’t cook properly and will lack the “wok taste” that makes them special.

STIR-FRIED HOLY BASIL WITH GROUND PORK AND FRIED EGG (PAD KRAPAO MOO SAAP)

2 SERVINGS

5 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided ½ lb. fatty ground pork 4 to 8 red and green Thai chilies, chopped 2 to 4 garlic cloves, chopped 6 to 8 dashes Squid brand fish sauce 5 to 6 dashes Kwong Hung Seng sweet soy sauce 4 dashes Golden Mountain sauce 1 to 2 dashes Maekrua oyster sauce (optional) 1 cup green beans, chopped small (optional) 1 cup whole holy basil leaves* 2 eggs Steamed jasmine rice, for serving • Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a wok over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the ground pork and stir-fry until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove and set aside.

• Add another 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to the wok over medium heat. Add the chilies and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, 1 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35

oil, divided 8 red and green Thai chilies 4 garlic cloves ¼ cup water 2 Tbsp. Lee tamarind concentrate ½ 50 g. palm sugar cake (or 25 g. granulated palm sugar) 2 Tbsp. Squid brand fish sauce ½ cup whole Thai sweet basil leaves, plus more for garnish Steamed jasmine rice, for serving

CHILLED COCONUT DESSERT SOUP

minute. Return the pork to the wok and toss.

• Add the fish sauce, sweet soy sauce, Golden Mountain sauce and oyster sauce, if desired. Stirfry 1 to 2 minutes, then add the green beans, if desired, and stirfry another 1 to 2 minutes.

• Increase the heat to high and add the basil. Stir-fry just until the basil wilts, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and set aside.

• Return the wok to medium heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil.

• Add 1 egg and baste by spooning the hot oil over the egg until crispy, 1 to 2 minutes. Repeat with the remaining egg.

• Serve the stir-fry over jasmine rice

and topped with a fried egg. * Peppery and savory, holy basil is very different from the more familiar Thai sweet basil. The best version of pad krapao uses only holy basil (krapao) – in Thailand, these basils would never be interchanged. Locally, sweet basil is often substituted, but try to find holy basil if you can.

THREE-FLAVOR FISH (PLA SAM ROT)

2 SERVINGS

1 whole 1-lb. branzino 2 cups plus 1 Tbsp. vegetable

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• Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

Place a rack atop a baking sheet.

• Cut 3 or 4 slashes into each side of the fish.

• Preheat 2 cups vegetable oil in a wok over medium heat, just below smoking temperature. Hold the fish by the tail and carefully slide into the oil. Deep-fry until crispy, about 5 minutes on each side.

Place the fish on the rack to drain and keep warm in the oven.

• Discard the used cooking oil and wipe out the wok. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the wok over medium heat.

• Add the chilies and garlic and saute until fragrant, 1 minute. Add the water, tamarind and palm sugar and stir until everything dissolves. Add the fish sauce, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Add the basil and stir to combine.

• To serve, place the fried fish on a large plate and top with the sauce. Garnish with more sweet basil. Serve with jasmine rice.

BUY IT Danwanichakul recommends the Joyce Chen carbon steel wok for homecooking. $29. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, St. Louis, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com

CHILLED COCONUT DESSERT SOUP (RUAM MIT)

4 SERVINGS

1 13.5-oz. can coconut milk 1 15-oz. can Aroy-D young coconut meat in syrup 1 Tian OpThai dessert incense candle (optional) 1 20-oz. can Aroy-D jackfruit in syrup, drained and rinsed 1 20-oz. can Aroy-D palm seeds in heavy syrup, drained and rinsed 4 cups crushed ice • Add the coconut milk to a small pot. Use a fine-mesh sieve to strain the coconut meat over the pot, letting the syrup drip into coconut milk. Stir the coconut milk and syrup well until combined.

Perfume the mixture with the incense, if desired.* • Rinse the coconut meat. Slice the coconut meat and the jackfruit into thin strips, then return all fruits to their rinsed cans.

• Cover the coconut milk and refrigerate 2 hours, along with the cans of fruits.

• To serve, divide the crushed ice among 4 bowls. Evenly divide the fruits among the bowls and ladle the coconut milk over the top. * To perfume the coconut milk and syrup mixture, puncture the bottom of the empty coconut milk can and place upside down in the pot with the milk. Light both ends of the incense candle, then extinguish.

Immediately place the smoking candle atop the can, then cover the pot and let perfume 5 minutes.

Put out the candle and discard it and the coconut milk can. Stir the coconut milk well and continue with the recipe.

Recommended brands are all available at Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket. com; Jay International Food, 3172 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.2552, Facebook: Jay International Foods

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G LO BA L

G RO C E R I E S

BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA // PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

dip racily stocks vegetables at bombay bazar in chesterfield.

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NEXT TIME YOU’VE GOT THE URGE TO TAKE A TRIP BY WAY OF YOUR KITCHEN, SKIP THE CONVENTIONAL GROCERY STORES AND OPT FOR ONE OF ST. LOUIS’ DOZENS OF INTERNATIONAL MARKETS. EACH ONE IS LIKE A MINI ADVENTURE, AND WHETHER YOU’RE IN SEARCH OF EXOTIC FRUITS, RARE CUTS OF MEAT OR HOUSE-MADE TREATS, THESE STORES HAVE YOU COVERED.

ALL-PURPOSE INTERNATIONAL Global Foods Market in Kirkwood is a wonderland for culinary explorers. It’s rich in options rarely seen at the average grocery store, like whole frozen octopus, pigs’ feet, red bean ice cream, curry-flavored snacks and whole frozen durian fruit.

Country flags help shoppers navigate the aisles stocked with thousands of ingredients from all over the world. Large tubs of nuts, flours, dried fruits and seeds are available for a good price, and the

freezer aisles put Trader Joe’s to shame. The bread selection, which includes everything from pita to black bread, is a carb-lover’s dream.

Global Foods, 431 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com

ASIAN Red Chinese lanterns adorn the ceiling of Olive Supermarket in University City, Chineselanguage newspapers are piled on the news racks, and the aisles are stuffed with Asian noodles, spices, sauces, snacks and herbal, floral and black teas. The seafood section includes live frogs and crabs.

The meat counter sells spiced roasted duck and chickens, available in half or whole portions. Open-minded eaters will delight in the take-away options, including spicy chicken feet and beef lungs in chili sauce. The supermarket is a favorite of Lona’s Lil’ Eats chef-owner Lona Luo, who said she shops there often for fresh produce and ready-to-eat goodies.

Olive Supermarket, 8041 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.997.5168, stlouissupermarket.com Pan-Asia Supermarket in Manchester is like the Sam’s Club of Asian cuisine. Open since summer 2017, the large space is stocked with

ingredients sourced from all over the continent. Make sure you’re hungry – you’ll want to sample something from the to-go section, which includes Korean egg pancakes, Drunken Chicken, five-spice beef shank, roasted duck, barbecue pork and peanuts roasted in soy sauce. The bakery churns out fresh bread each morning and prepares seasonal specialties like housemade mooncakes. If you’re just starting to experiment with Asian cooking, Pan-Asia also sells ramen bowls, sauce ramekins and sushi-making supplies. Later this year, store manager Ethan Lin said the store will add extra space to accommodate a food court offering noodle and fried rice dishes.

Pan-Asia Supermarket, 14246 Manchester Road, Manchester, 636.220.9999, panasiasupermarket.com

BOSNIAN If you want to try your hand at traditional Bosnian dishes, a stop at Europa Market is a must. The small store bakes

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fresh Bosnian-style breads and carries a variety of imported cheeses and sausages, as well as frozen pita and burek, a spiraled phyllo dough filled with cheese and other savory ingredients. The tea aisle is impressive, containing many varieties of herbal teas, as well as traditional Turkish black.

Don’t miss the selection of jarred ajvar, a smoky dip of red peppers and eggplant ideal in any happy-hour spread.

Europa worked with Brother and Sister Foods, a Pennsylvania-based Bosnian food producer, to make their own argeta, a chicken pate typically eaten for breakfast or lunch and nearly impossible to find in the States. “Whenever you go to Bosnia or your family goes to visit, nobody comes back without bringing many cans back,” said Lemmons Restaurant chef-owner Senada Grbic. “They started carrying it about two months ago, and everyone I know was freaking out about it.”

Europa Market, 8100 Water St., St. Louis, 314.631.7288, europamarket.com

pieces of jackfruit, a trendy meat substitute, rest on newspaper at bombay bazar; at right, gulab jamun, an indian dessert, is available at mideast market.

butchery is an important aspect of business at mideast market in ballwin.

INDIAN The unmistakable aroma of Indian cuisine is noticeable the second you step inside Bombay Bazar. The small but tidy space is well stocked with a wealth of affordable spices, lentils and other standard Indian ingredients, including a small selection of fresh produce, yogurt, milk and eggs. The freezer case entices less industrious cooks with frozen naan, samosas and Indian entrees, and nearly an entire aisle is dedicated to Indian snacks like spicy banana chips and spiced fried peanuts. Bollywood music adds a touch of fun to shopping.

Don’t miss the freshly prepared samosas, rotis, pakoras and bondas stocked behind the checkout.

Bombay Bazar, 1761 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.778.2391, bbazarstl.com

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even a recipe, DiGregorio’s is happy to share its secrets.

DiGregorio’s Italian Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.1062, digregoriofoods.com

MIDDLE EASTERN Mideast Market is tucked away in a nondescript Ballwin strip mall. Hidden beyond the aisles of canned chickpeas and fragrant spices and past the meat section is a small cafe counter serving killer gyros and other Middle Eastern dishes like samosas, falafel, pakora, and chicken and goat biryani.

“Everything is made in-house with family recipes,” said owner Rashed Kazmi. Mideast also offers catering services.

el morelia supermercado bakes conchas, mexican sweet buns, in-house.

ITALIAN Don’t plan a pasta night in without a trip to DiGregorio’s Italian Market. First, head to the freezers in the back for house-made ravioli or tortellini.

You’ll have a lot of filling choices to peruse, ranging from traditional (beef, cheese) to highclass (lobster) and vegetarian (eggplant, caprese). Glutenfree options are also available.

Carnivores will want to take a peek at the house-made sausages and meatballs. Next, choose your sauce. (DiGregorio’s makes all of theirs in-house.) Then, move along to the refrigerator case filled with freshly grated Reggiano, pecorino and Parmesan. Finally, check out the wine selections from Sicily, Tuscany and Campania.

“The majority of our recipes have roots going back to the old country and have been handed down generation to generation,” said marketing associate Giovanni DiGregorio.

If you need cooking tips or

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The grocery comes highly recommended by Sameem Afghan Restaurant co-owner Fahime Mohammad. “The local meat they get is grassfed with no antibiotics,” he said. “The hardworking staff is mostly immigrants – I like to support our immigrant community as much as I can, particularly as I’m a firstgeneration immigrant myself.”

Mideast Market, 14345 Manchester Road, Ballwin, 636.230.7018, mideastmarket.net

Another prize tucked into a humdrum strip mall, Worldwide International Food Market includes a small, no-frills restaurant serving up traditional Middle Eastern and Palestinian favorites like hummus, falafel, shawarma and shish kebab. The dishes come from family recipes. Ayah Sumren manages the store and her mother, Ruqaiah Sumren, prepares everything by hand, including the pita bread and sweets baked in the store each morning. “On Fridays, we have chef ’s choice specials – my mom chooses a dish, which is usually something traditional,” Ayah said.

“Many of our customers are immigrants, and it takes them back home.”

Worldwide International Food Market, 7238 N. Lindbergh Blvd., Hazelwood, 314.731.3500, Facebook: World Wide International Food Market

MEXICAN Visit El Morelia Supermercado in Bridgeton on a weekend when the entryway becomes a mini brunch cantina serving authentic tacos. Corn tortillas are topped with generous helpings of carne asada, al

from top, thai eggplant at bombay bazar; savory stuffed samosas are popular at mideast market in ballwin. pastor, carnitas or lengua. Card tables groan under the weight of an impressive selection of toppings, including fresh salsa, radishes, onions and cilantro.

“The tacos are a fifth-generation recipe from my dad’s side,” said co-owner Karen Rico. Her dad once owned a shop in Morelia, Mexico, and now the Rico family also owns The Taco & Ice Cream Joint on Cherokee Street.

Along with brunch, El Morelia has everything you could possibly want to create a Mexican fiesta at home. Besides staples like dried chilies and spices, the store sells carnitas and other taco meats by the pound, house-made salsa and freshly baked bread and empanadas.

El Morelia Super Mercado, 12005 St. Charles Rock Road, Bridgeton, 314.209.0014, Facebook: El Morelia Supermercado piñatas line the aisles at el morelia supermercado in bridgeton.

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THE

ABCs OF CBD

H O W

T O

T R Y

C A N N A B I S

W I T H O U T

G E T T I N G

B A K E D

BY LAUREN HEALEY // ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

CANNABIS IS NO LONGER JUST FOR HIPPIES AND S TO N E R S , and you don’t have to go to Denver to enjoy it. Snacks and candies infused with cannabidiol, or CBD, are popping up around St. Louis.

With less than 0.3 percent THC (the psychoactive component of cannabis), CBD won’t get you high, but stores like CBD Canvas Boutique & Dispensary in Maplewood and CBD Kratom, which has several locations in the area, are marketing CBD-infused gummies, teas, lollipops and caramels and as a legal way to alleviate anxiety, pain and insomnia, as well as promote relaxation and overall health.

“CBD can be derived from marijuana or hemp – marijuana is above 0.3 percent THC and hemp is below – but marijuana could get you high.

Hemp-derived CBD has cannabinoids and terpenes that have great wellness properties,” said Mowellens owner Amy Duncan, who said CBD helped heal her husband and former Cardinals player Chris Duncan when he was diagnosed with a brain tumor in 2012. There have been some early clinical trials of cannabinoids in cancer treatment, but CBD’s efficacy has yet to be determined, according to the American Cancer Society. For now, the only FDA-approved drug derived from CBD is Epidiolex,

November 2018

used in the treatment of seizures in certain forms of epilepsy.

If you’re not into gummies, you can buy bottles of CBD oil to use in your own culinary creations from smoothies to soups and sauces. Some forms offer a sweet, vegetal flavor, like Evolution CBD 3-in-1 Natural from The CBD Store in South County, while Mowellens’ Inner Peace is flavorless. Check the label for dosage recommendations, as some oils are more concentrated than others.

Hello Juice & Smoothie in Forest Park Southeast recently added Mowellens CBD to its menu, recommended as an addition to the Matcha Hemp bowl made with hemp protein, matcha, banana, ginger and coconut milk. “Matcha has some of the same benefits as CBD, so pairing it boosts the calming and healing effect,” said Hello Juice owner Kayla Bauer. PuraVegan Café in DeBaliviere Place and SymBowl in Kirkwood and Chesterfield also offer CBD as an add-in to any beverage.

The trend is growing nationally too. Nashville pastry chef Dani Veit utilizes CBD in baked goods, while Haberdish in Charlotte, North Carolina, offers a CBD-infused cocktail called The Apothecary. And the James New York – NoMad hotel has a full CBD tasting menu. CocaCola is even considering creating a CBD beverage.

At the intersection of supplement/health food trends and the cannabis cuisine boom predicted with the widespread legalization of marijuana, you’re bound to see more of CBD.

CBD CANVAS BOUTIQUE & DISPENSARY, 7168

Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.308.9122, cbdcanvas.com

CBD KRATOM, multiple locations, cbdkratomshops.com/st-louis/

THE CBD STORE, 3522 Lemay

Ferry Road, Mehlville, 314.200.9655, thecbdstores.com

HELLO JUICE & SMOOTHIE, 1000

S. Newstead Ave., St. Louis, 618.509.2366, hellojuicestl.com

PURAVEGAN CAFÉ, 307 Belt

Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.5144, puravegan.com

SYMBOWL, 11215 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.315.4421; 137 Chesterfield Towne Center, Chesterfield, 636.778.0638 mysymbowl.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45

stuff to do:

NOVEMBER

BY MONICA OBRADOVIC

Belleville Art and Wine Walk Nov. 3 – 4 to 7 p.m., Downtown Belleville, 101 E. Main St., Belleville, 618.233.2015, bellevillemainstreet.net Stroll down Belleville’s historic main street while sipping wine and listening to live music. Stop by more than 20 local businesses and restaurants like Copper Fire, Seven and Taps & Tapas to enjoy wine samples and peruse art from photographers, multimedia artists and more. Tickets available online and at the door.

Sake-ology: Sake Cocktails and Tasting Nov. 7 – 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., Intoxicology, 4321 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3088, intoxicologystl.com Join The Blue Ocean head barman Tai Nalewajko for a night of sushi and sake.

Nalewajko teaches the complexities of sake, from milling techniques to ingredients and the production process.

Taste different sake varieties while enjoying carefully paired snacks from The Blue Ocean. Tickets available online.

Beersgiving Dinner Nov. 13 – 7 to 10 p.m., HopCat, 6315 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.582.3201, hopcat.com/ st-louis Celebrate an early Thanksgiving at this four-course feast paired with Six Mile Bridge Beer brews. Start with a mixed cranberry salad topped with a boozy vinaigrette and served with a cranberry witbier, then enjoy a turkey pot pie accompanied by an Irish-style red ale.

Finish the meal with cinnamon-maple sweet potato pie paired with a cinnamonmaple stout. Tickets available online.

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Taste of Downtown Alton Nov. 15 – 5:30 to 7:30 p.m., Argosy Casino Alton, 1 Piasa St., Alton, 618.465.6676, downtownalton.com Sample the flavors of downtown Alton at the annual tour of this river city’s favorite food from more than 15 Alton-area restaurants like The Brown Bag Bistro, Decaro’s, Great Rivers Tap & Grill and Wang Gang Asian Eats. Proceeds benefit restoration efforts for Alton Main Street.

Tickets available by phone or at the Alton Visitors Center.

Author Cathy Barry Cooking Demonstration Nov. 18 – 2 to 3 p.m., Brentwood Recreation Center, 2505 Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, 314.963.8630, Facebook: Cookbook Author Cathy Barrow: Pie Squared Meet “Pie-Squared” author Cathy Barry at an event hosted by the Brentwood Public Library. Barry shares how to make her slab pies during two cooking demonstrations, and attendees can sample the sweet and savory results. Tickets include a copy of “Pie Squared” and are available online.

St. Andrew’s Dinner and Celebration Nov. 30 – 6:30 to 9 p.m., Racquet Club, 476 N. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, stlstandrews.com Don your finest Highland formalwear and celebrate Scottish culture with the Scottish St. Andrew’s Society of St. Louis. Indulge in a buffet dinner including traditional Scottish fare, like smoked salmon and beef stew, as well as desserts, sides and a cash bar. Tickets available online and at the door.

November 2018

November 2018

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WHAT I DO

Tom Niemeier It all started with the ceiling at Franco.

Space Architecture & Design owner Tom Niemeier didn’t want to hide the historic wooden joists, but he needed to disguise the exposed pipes and ductwork of his first restaurant design. The Space team came up with an elegant solution: suspended curved wood panels undulating above diners’ heads.

Since then, Space has designed more than 60 restaurants, including Pastaria, Narwhal’s and Mission Taco Joint, overseeing nearly all elements of architecture, construction and fabrication. Meet the leader of the team behind some of St. Louis’ most recognizable restaurants. – Catherine Klene

a hole-in-the-wall, bland space. … If their food is bad, no matter what kind of environment they have, they’re probably not going to make it in the long run. If you can possibly put those two things together – excellent food, excellent environment – then you’ve got a real recipe for success.” “ T h e k e y i s t h at y o u d o n ’ t wa n t t o b e t o o l i t e r a l . You want to create

something that people have to think about a little bit before they realize where that came from, if that makes sense.

Obviously, when people go into Narwhal’s and see these ropes hanging down, they’re tying that into ships and netting and things like that. …

You’re getting the essence of a nautical theme, but you’re not being too crazy with it.”

“ I d o n ’ t l i k e w h at I wo u l d c a l l m at e r i a l t r y i n g t o b e s o m e t h i n g t h at i t i s n ’ t. Not a fan of plastic

laminate. Not a fan of faux wood.

If you go into our restaurants, you’re typically going to find materials that are being true to themselves. You’re going to see wood; you’re going to see steel; you’re going to see glass; you’re going to see concrete. We’re not trying to fake anything.”

“Even through 2009 and 2010, when it seemed like the e n t i r e s o c i e t y wa s c r u m b l i n g here in

America, restaurant work stayed strong for us through that whole period. These guys have guts.

They’re not risk-averse. They have a passion about what they do, and they’re just going to go for it. And yeah, they hear the statistics that 50 percent aren’t going to make it past their first

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year – they don’t care. They’re confident enough in their ability that they don’t let that stop them. Thank God for them.

Thank God for the entrepreneur that’s willing to take that risk and give our city so much more flavor, no pun intended.”

a nice architectural space, but she has a way of softening things and making things warmer and comfortable and inviting. … It truly isn’t about me. I’ve been here and leading the charge, but it’s absolutely about the team that makes this place go.”

“ M y w i f e , S h e l l e y, i s r e a l ly m y t e a m m a t e a n d s o u l m a t e on so

“ I lov e w o o d w o r k i n g . T h at ’ s r e a l ly m y p a s s i o n .

many of these restaurant projects because she adds this touch that I honestly don’t have.

I’m an architect, and I can design

Unfortunately, I have to live vicariously through the guys in the shop that are, for one, much better woodworkers than I am,

and they obviously spend a lot of time there. My hope and dream is to one day transition back to the shop, and I’ll be the old Geppetto guy in the back, and hopefully this firm keeps going. I’ll still be around – just creating a lot of sawdust.”

Space Architecture & Design, 4168 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.534.4168, spacestl.com

November 2018

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

“ I f a r e s ta u r a n t c a n p u t o u t e xc e l l e n t f o o d , they can survive being

November 2018

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GUIDE TO THE

H O L I D AYS quick caramel cake, p. 18

Guide to the Holidays 2018

FREE, GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS 2018

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

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when you want to spend

$25 OR LESS This season of hostess gifts, Hanukkah tchotchkes and stocking stuffers can be as stressful as it is joy-filled. Here are gifts to have on retainer when the person who agreed not to exchange shows up with a little something. – Heather Hughes

Tree of Life trivet For the socially conscious person on your list, we present this hand-carved sheesham wood trivet made in Saharanpur, India, by fair-trade artisans. $22. Zee Bee Market, 3211 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.1000; 7270 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.402.0940, zeebeemarket.com

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Blueprint Penrose and HAY clip with spoon This adorable, Scandinaviandesigned measuring spoon/ clip makes a perfect pair with Blueprint Coffee’s crowdpleasing house espresso. We won’t tell you rounded up 50 cents to make the dream team happen. Spoon: $10. MoMA Design Store, store.moma. org. Coffee: $15.50. Blueprint Coffee, 6225 Delmar Blvd.; 4206 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.266.6808, blueprintcoffee.com

Mortar and pestle The clever design of this gray marble set – with a pestle shaped to fill the entire bowl of the mortar – makes grinding spices a breeze. $20. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com

Collin Garrity wood kitchen tools Form and function are equal in local artist Collin Garrity’s beautiful tools, each available for less than $25. Along with the obvious, use the herb stripper for scraping cutting boards and seeding squash. Prices vary.

Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com

Guide to the Holidays 2018

KITCHEN TOOLS, BISCUIT MIX AND JAM PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Larder & Cupboard gift bag Give the pros at Larder & Cupboard your budget, and sit back as they create an ideal custom gift bag or basket. Start with the remarkable housemade raspberry-elderflower jam ($7.50) and Juniper’s Gift Horse buttermilk biscuit mix ($6), and you can’t go wrong.

Prices vary. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

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when you want to spend

$ 2 5 - $ 5 0 It can be hard to pick something in the agreed-upon price range that you won’t meet again at next year’s white elephant exchange. From crowd-pleasers like cloth napkins and cheese knives to unique finds like a handmade bread warmer basket, these gifts deliver. – Heather Hughes

Tree of Life bread warmer basket set Another fair-trade favorite, this basket comes with an oven-safe terracotta disc to keep baked goods toasty. $27. Zee Bee Market, 3211 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.1000; 7270 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.402.0940, zeebeemarket.com

Lehmann Goods wood spice dish and Phillip Cinder ceramic spoon This spice dish by Hannah Lehmann is so much cooler than salt and pepper shakers. Give it to a pizza lover to fill with salt, pepper, red pepper flakes and oregano.

Spice dish: $40. Lehmann Goods, lehmanngoods.com; Phillip Cinder ceramic spoon: $10. Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com Large Turkish towel This soft, stylish towel can be used for everything from cleaning up to covering small tables or folding into a runner. It gets softer the more it’s washed. $36.

Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com

Cotton napkins Cloth napkins never go out of style. Buy these beauties to ensure they’re not just chic and sustainable, but fair trade as well. Prices vary. Plowsharing Crafts, 6271 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.863.3723, plowsharing.org

SPICE BOWLS AND TURKISH TOWEL PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Laguiole cheese knife set Laguiole combines the French loves for cheese and elegant design. The set includes a cheese fork, knife and spreader. $40. Civil Alchemy, 8154 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.801.7577, civilalchemy.com

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when you want to spend

$50-$100 The holidays are an opportunity to gift the things you can’t justify buying yourself – like a gorgeous carved cookbook stand and artisan ceramics. Treat friends and family to these home goods and live vicariously. – Heather Hughes

Carved book stand Give recipes some style and save cookbooks or iPads from spills with this ornate book stand. $75. Plowsharing Crafts, 6271 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.863.3723, plowsharing.org

‘Hey Girl, I Made You a Salad’ framed print Created by St. Louis illustrator Vidhya Nagarajan for the September 2016 issue of Sauce, this framed print belongs in every salad lover’s kitchen. $51. vidhyanagarajan.com

snakewood sushi table Make sushi night look professional with this striking table made from reclaimed wood by local artisans. $70. Newberry Furniture, 314.647.6090, newberryfurniture.com

Arthur Court Olive Tray and olives Show up at your next holiday party with a snack and elegant gift in one. Tray: $60. Olive prices vary.

Extra Virgin an Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, Ladue, 314.727.6464, extravirginoo.com

PITCHER AND CUPS PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Al Westcott ceramic pitcher and cups A two-cup and pitcher set of local artist Al Westcott’s beautiful, unembellished work is perfect for couples, roommates or guest rooms. Pitcher: $62. Cups: $18 each. Union Studio, 1605 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.5398, stlunionstudio.com

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when you want to spend

A LOT When it comes to food, we like gifts that keep giving, like classes or subscriptions. If you’re going to spend the big bucks on world-class coffee or wine, it’s nice to know your loved ones will be reminded how much they mean to you month after month. – Heather Hughes

Bolyard Butcher classes Give the gift of meat knowledge (and meat to take home) with classes where students chew the fat with butcher Chris Bolyard and learn how to cut meat while snacking on house charcuterie and drinking beer. New classes open in January. $125. Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions, 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com

Jilly’s Cupcakes of the Month subscription Available in the St. Louis area and Edwardsville, you can have four massive cupcakes delivered monthly to your favorite sweet tooth for three, six or 12 months. Three months: $127.50. Six months: $240. One year: $450. Jilly’s Cupcake & Ice Cream Bar, 8509 Delmar Blvd., University City; 222 E. Park St., Edwardsville, 314.993.5455

Vero Meal Kits subscription Perfect for homebodies who love good food, Vero kits allow people to bring the Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria experience home with customizable menus and easy instructions for cooking dishes that have been featured at the sister restaurant, including eggplant Parmigiana and artichoke salad. Prices vary.

Vero Meal Kits, 314.764.2220, veromealkits.com

Sump Roaster’s Choice Subscription This is a dream gift for any coffee lover. Sump’s flexible subscriptions let you send $16 12-ounce bags of some of the best beans in the state as often as once a week. The selection of single-origin coffees rotates on a bi-weekly basis. Prices vary.

Sump Coffee, sumpcoffee.com

CUPCAKE PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Claverach Farm Wines subscription In addition to making its own wine, Claverach works with small, niche importers and cult domestic wineries to distribute some special natural wines you won’t find elsewhere. Give a yearly subscription of 12, six or three bottles a month for $155, $82 and $45 per month, plus fees, respectively. Prices vary. Claverach Farm Wines, claverachwine.com

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

A CHEF'S HOLIDAY New holiday recipes abound every year, but some family favorites simply cannot be improved. That’s why La Patisserie Chouquette’s Simone Faure swaps choux pastry for 7UP in her holiday baking, and why Companion’s Josh Galliano always keeps a pot of gumbo simmering on Christmas Eve. We asked St. Louis chefs with Southern roots to share the dishes that make their family tables complete. – Catherine Klene

mac ‘n’ cheese with red gravy, recipe on p. 15

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER Guide to the Holidays 2018

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companion’s josh galliano and his son, emil

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

RECIPES EGGPLANT AND CRAB DIP Courtesy of Companion’s Josh Galliano 12 SERVINGS

“In Baton Rouge, we were always asked to do crab Mornay. I started doing a crab and eggplant one as a different option. We always had different dressings that are kind of casseroles and kind of dip.” – Josh Galliano 1 large eggplant ½ cup butter ¼ cup white onion, small diced 1 garlic clove, minced ½ cup flour 2 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¾ cup grated Parmesan, divided 1 lb. refrigerated lump or backfin crabmeat, picked over for shell pieces ¾ cup breadcrumbs Benne wafers, water crackers or mini vol-au-vents, for serving • Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium, direct heat.

• Pierce the eggplant with a fork in 8 to 10 places. Grill the eggplant over direct heat, turning every 5 minutes to cook evenly. Once the eggplant is soft all over, set in a bowl to cool.

• Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise.

Scoop out the flesh and let drain in a fine-mesh sieve or colander until ready to use.

• Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• In a medium pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until the onions are translucent, 4 to 5

Guide to the Holidays 2018

minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the onion mixture and stir to incorporate, then stir in the milk and heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 10 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper.

• Transfer the sauce to a blender and add the eggplant and ½ cup Parmesan. Puree the mixture.

• Stir in the crabmeat, then pour the dip into a 7-inch round casserole dish. Sprinkle the top with the breadcrumbs and the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan.

• Bake 10 minutes. Serve with benne wafers, water crackers or inside mini vol-au-vents.

MAC ‘N’ CHEESE WITH RED GRAVY Courtesy of Companion’s Josh Galliano 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

“It was from my dad’s side of the family, going over on Christmas Day to my Aunt Mary’s. They would always have [this], a classic staple of their Christmas spread.” – Josh Galliano ¾ cup butter, divided ¼ cup flour 4 cups milk 1 lb. rigatoni or penne pasta Olive oil, to prevent sticking 1 cup shredded Fontina ½ cup shredded cheddar ½ cup cubed Velveeta ¼ cup shredded asiago Pinch of cayenne Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¼ cup breadcrumbs Red Gravy, for serving (recipe follows)

• Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

• In a medium pot, melt ½ cup butter over medium heat, then whisk in the flour. Whisk 2 minutes, then add the milk. Bring the bechamel to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and continue whisking about 10 minutes.

• Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Boil the pasta according to package directions until al dente, then drain and place in a large mixing bowl and stir with a drizzle of olive oil.

• Add the Fontina, cheddar, Velveeta and asiago to the bechamel and stir until the cheeses melt. Season to taste with cayenne, salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.

• In a small skillet, melt the remaining ¼ cup butter over medium-high heat. When the butter foams, add the breadcrumbs. Stir the breadcrumbs until toasted, about 2 minutes, then remove from the heat.

• Pour the cheese sauce over the pasta and mix until thoroughly coated, then pour into a 9-by-13inch casserole dish. Evenly sprinkle the top with the breadcrumbs.

• Bake 10 minutes. Serve with Red Gravy.

4 garlic cloves, minced 2 6-oz. cans tomato paste 4 8-oz. cans tomato sauce 4 cups water 3 Tbsp. Italian seasoning 2 tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. whole anise seed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add the onion and garlic and saute until they begin to brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

• Add the tomato paste and reduce the heat to low. Stir and cook the tomato paste about 5 minutes.

• Add the tomato sauce and water and bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer about 1 hour.

• Stir in the Italian seasoning, oregano, anise and salt and pepper to taste. Serve over mac ‘n’ cheese or other pasta.

SAUTEED COLLARD GREENS Courtesy of Gourmet Soul’s Lavinia McCoy 3 TO 5 SERVINGS

RED GRAVY

Courtesy of Companion’s Josh Galliano 1 TO 1½ GALLONS

Yes, this is an Italian tomato sauce – just don’t call it that. “Red gravy is what Sicilian Italians in New Orleans call it.” – Josh Galliano ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, small diced

1½ lb. fresh collard greens 2 Tbsp. butter ½ cup finely diced onion Crushed red pepper flakes, to taste ½ cup chicken stock Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • Remove and discard all but 1 inch of the collard stems. Strip the leaves from the remaining center stems. Cut the leaves into 2-by2-inch squares and thinly slice

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“ F O R I

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

the stems. Thoroughly wash the greens, making sure all dirt and grit are removed.

• Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat. Submerge the collard greens and boil 3 minutes.

Drain and set aside.

• In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter, then saute the onion with red pepper flakes to taste until the onions are tender, 2 to 3 minutes.

• Add the collard greens and chicken stock to the skillet and raise the heat to high. Wilt the greens, stirring occasionally until desired tenderness is reached, 5 to 7 minutes, adding more stock or water to prevent burning.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE GUMBO Courtesy of Companion’s Josh Galliano 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

“When we always had my immediate family around, we would celebrate Christmas Eve – open up whatever presents – and then snack on gumbo, because it was easy, and it would be in the background. We went to vigil Mass and came back, and at that point you’d be hungry because they kept you too long and the gumbo was easy to get back into.” – Josh Galliano For the Stock 3 to 4 Tbsp. canola oil 1 3-lb. chicken, cut into pieces 2 Tbsp. Creole seasoning 15 cups water 1 yellow onion, cut in half 1 large carrot, cut into 3 pieces 1 celery stalk, cut in half 1 bay leaf

Guide to the Holidays 2018

For the Gumbo ½ cup canola oil ½ cup flour 1 cup small-diced onion ½ cup small-diced celery ½ cup small-diced green bell pepper 1 Tbsp. chopped garlic 10 to 12 cups chicken stock 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire 1 tsp. Crystal hot sauce, plus more for serving 1 bay leaf Pinch of cayenne Pinch of chili flakes ½ lb. andouille, cut into half moons* Steamed white rice, for serving Chopped green onion, for serving • Begin the chicken stock by preheating the canola oil in a Dutch oven over high heat.

• Meanwhile, dry the chicken pieces with a paper towel, then season all over with the Creole seasoning.

• Sear the chicken pieces in the Dutch oven until browned on all sides, working in batches if needed.

• Add the water, onion, carrot, celery and bay leaf. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer 45 minutes.

• Remove the chicken pieces and set aside. Strain the stock into a clean pot; discard the solids.

• Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the meat and set aside in a small pot with some stock to keep warm. Discard the skin and bones.

• Clean the Dutch oven, add the oil and return to medium-high heat.

When the oil just begins to smoke, whisk in the flour and reduce the heat to medium-low. Continue whisking the roux until it is the color of dark peanut butter or a Hershey milk chocolate bar, about 45 minutes.

• Add the onion, celery, bell pepper and garlic and cook 5

minutes. Then add the stock, Worcestershire, hot sauce, bay leaf, cayenne and chili flakes.

Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer about 10 minutes.

• Add the chicken pieces and andouille, then simmer another 30 minutes. Skim any foam or impurities that rise to the top.

• Taste and adjust the seasonings.

The gumbo should be the consistency of a slightly thickened broth. Serve over steamed rice, garnished with green onions and hot sauce. *Galliano orders andouille from Jacob’s in LaPlace, Louisiana, at cajunsausage.com. It is also available at Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions in Maplewood and Truffles Butchery in Ladue.

NEW ORLEANS RICE DRESSING

Courtesy of La Patisserie Chouquette’s Simone Faure 6 TO 8 SERVINGS, ENOUGH TO STUFF 1 LARGE TURKEY

“For Christmas and Easter, we always have rice dressing or dirty rice. I feel like it is the core of Louisiana, the core of New Orleans.

It’s always on the table.” – Simone Faure ½ lb. chicken gizzards 2 Tbsp. olive oil 4 celery stalks, chopped 1 green bell pepper, small diced ½ red onion, diced ½ white onion, small diced 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 lb. ground turkey 1 Tbsp. garlic powder 1 Tbsp. onion powder 1 Tbsp. Tony’s Creole Seasoning ½ Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. paprika

1 tsp. cayenne 4½ cups beef broth 3 cups white Louisiana rice 1 bunch parsley, chopped 1 bunch green onions, chopped • Rinse the gizzards thoroughly, then add them to a stockpot. Cover with water and cook over low heat about 1½ hours, adding more water if needed, until the gizzards are fork tender. Drain the gizzards, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid. Set aside.

• Meanwhile, in a large skillet, warm the olive oil over mediumhigh heat. Saute the celery, bell pepper, red onion and white onion until tender, 6 to 10 minutes, then add the garlic and saute 1 minute more.

• Add the turkey, garlic powder, onion powder, Creole seasoning, pepper, paprika and cayenne and saute until the turkey is browned, 6 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

• Add the gizzards to a food processor and pulse to lightly chop, or lightly chop by hand.

• Return the skillet to medium heat, add the gizzards to the turkey mixture and stir well. Add the reserved gizzard cooking liquid.

Reduce the heat to low and let simmer.

• Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring the beef broth to a boil over high heat. Stir in the rice, cover, reduce the heat to low and cook 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let the rice steam 10 minutes.

• Add the turkey mixture to a large bowl. Add the rice 1 cup at a time so the mixture remains moist and the desired rice-to-meat ratio is reached.

(You may not use all the rice.)

• Add the parsley and green onion and mix well. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with more parsley and green onion to serve as a side or use it to stuff a turkey.

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SOUTHERN 7UP CAKE

Courtesy of La Patisserie Chouquette’s Simone Faure 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

“Every black family in New Orleans does 7UP cake for the holidays.

My mother was an avid baker, and she would always have 7UP cake.

I had friends in college who would request it if they came home for the holidays.” – Simone Faure 3 cups granulated sugar ¾ lb. (3 sticks) butter, softened 5 eggs 3 cups self-rising flour 4 Tbsp. lemon juice, divided ¾ cup 7UP 1 cup powdered sugar 1 tsp. milk

QUICK CARAMEL CAKE

Courtesy of Gourmet Soul’s Lavinia McCoy 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

“For whatever the reason, every time I make that damn cake, [my family] thinks I’ve been laboring in the kitchen all day.” – Lavinia McCoy 1 box Duncan Hines Signature Golden Butter Recipe Cake Mix 1 cup sugar 6 Tbsp. salted butter, room temperature cut into 6 pieces ½ cup heavy cream 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 to 2 cups powdered sugar, sifted, plus more if needed • Prepare the cake in a bundt pan or 2 9-inch round cake pans

according to package directions.

Let cool completely.

• In a medium saucepan over medium heat, constantly stir the sugar with a heat-resistant rubber spatula or wooden spoon. The sugar will clump and melt into a thick, amber-colored syrup.

• Immediately add the butter and whisk until completely melted, 2 to 3 minutes. The sugar will bubble rapidly when the butter is added.

• Very slowly drizzle in the heavy cream while whisking. The mixture will bubble rapidly and/or splatter when added. Boil 1 minute, then remove from heat and stir in the salt. Let cool.

• Slowly whisk in 1 cup powdered sugar until the desired consistency is reached, adding more sugar as needed.

• Drizzle the frosting atop the cake, or apply with an offset spatula.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

• Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Coat a 12-cup bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray.

• In a stand mixer on medium speed, cream the granulated sugar and butter until light and fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating after each addition.

• On low speed, add the flour and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.

• Use a rubber spatula to fold in the 7UP, then pour the batter into the bundt pan.

• Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes.

• Let cool on a wire rack completely before removing the cake from the pan.

• Meanwhile, whisk together the powdered sugar, milk and remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice to make a glaze. Drizzle atop the cooled cake before serving.

la patisserie chouquette's simone faure

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

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Guide to the Holidays 2018

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yolklore’s mary bogaki tops key lime pie with whipped cream.

KEY LIME PIE

Courtesy of Yolklore’s Mary Bogaki 1 9-INCH PIE

“Generally, citrus is in season in the wintertime, so the lime and Key lime are actually in season. It’s something different and fun, and after heavy eating, Key lime pie is so light and refreshing. I like that a whole lot more than heavy pumpkin custard pie.”

– Mary Bogaki

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3 cups (about 10 oz.) graham cracker crumbs 6 Tbsp. (about 3 oz.) butter, melted 1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk 10 egg yolks ½ cup plus 1½ Tbsp. (about 5 oz.) lime juice ¹∕³ cup vodka 1 cup heavy cream

¹∕³ cup powdered sugar ½ tsp. vanilla extract • Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

• In a mixing bowl, combine the graham cracker crumbs and butter. Press evenly on the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch pie pan.

• In another mixing bowl, whisk together the condensed milk, egg yolks, lime juice and vodka until

smooth. Pour into the prepared pan.

• Bake until the filling is just set, 15 minutes. Let cool completely, then refrigerate overnight.

• Before serving, make whipped cream by beating the cream, powdered sugar and vanilla extract in a stand mixer on high speed until stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes.

• Serve the pie with a generous dollop of whipped cream.

Guide to the Holidays 2018

Guide to the Holidays 2018

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YOU CAN ACTUALLY AFFORD

2002 YORK CREEK VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON ESTATE “All of the acidity, all the tannins have been completely smoothed out, so you’re left with an incredibly silky, robust wine,” said Cork & Rind buying manager Matt Hickerson. “You get a lot of dark fruit flavors in it – like munching on figs and plums and dates.” $35. Cork & Rind, 555 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.896.4404, corkandrind.com

2006 R. LOPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA TONDONIA RESERVA This tempranillo-graciano blend from Rioja, Spain, is super balanced. “When red wines are young, they’re big, they’re fruity,” said The Wine Merchant general manager Phil Peimann.

“As red wine ages out, the fruit tends to fall back a little bit, you get some earthy elements coming up from the background.” $43. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com

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2007 CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU You don’t usually see 11-year-old red Bordeauxes at a price like this. Peimann said the merlot-cabernet franc-cabernet sauvignon blend from the SaintEmilion region features notes of red and black fruit, leather and tobacco.

“It’s great when you can find a great wine like this at such a good price.” $40.

The Wine Merchant

2006 QUINTA DA BOAVISTA TERRAS DE TAVARES “It needed some time to mellow out, and it has done that very well,” said Parker’s Table owner John Parker. After a dozen years in the bottle, this Dão, Portugal, wine has more balanced notes of dark cherries and earth. $35. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

2007 FIGLI LUIGI ODDERO BARBARESCO “The wine starts out as fairly tannic and astringent,” said Parker. “Over time, the wine softens out, turns paler and has less juicy punch.” After 11 years in the bottle, Parker said this 100 percent nebbiolo wine from Piedmont, Italy, has relaxed from its forceful youth into gentler notes of stewed tomato and spice. $38. Parker’s Table

1997 PÜTZ-BOTZET LISERER SÜSSENBURG RIESLING AUSLESE A rare find from a defunct Mosel, Germany, producer, this classic riesling’s acidity and sweetness have become more prominent with age. “The fruit goes from fresh and ripe to dried and desiccated,” said sommelier Zac Adcox, Reeds American Table general manager. Retail: $24. Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com Guide to the Holidays 2018

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

S I X AG E D WINES

Aged wine has a reputation for quality and expense, but time isn’t always money. You can find mature bottles at a steal if you look in less famously ageable regions or luck out with pricing flukes like winery going out-of-business sales or retailers with direct chateau connections. We asked St. Louis wine minds for help selecting bottles over 10 years old for under $45. – Heather Hughes

Guide to the Holidays 2018

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