Carrot Margarita Carrot juice, house-infused mango-chile tequila, lemon juice, Cointreau and agave nectar At Atomic Cowboy, it was the addition of a new kitchen gadget that set the wheels in motion for the restaurant’s
Carrot Margarita (The Beetnik, a beet version, is also available.). When the The Grove hot spot added breakfast to its offerings about eight months ago, a juicer became part of the kitchen’s arsenal, and fresh vegetable juices – including carrot and beet – became a morning menu mainstay. “That juice is short-lived,” explained co-owner Jim
Kellogg, “so we wanted to figure out how to use it in other areas, and we thought the margarita would be a good fit.” It was a good hunch: The sweet-savory notes of the carrot juice turned out to be a perfect pairing for the smokiness of the tequila. From there, it took just a bit of fine-tuning, tweaking the sour and sweet elements of the classic margarita depending on the juice used. “Lemon works well with the carrot, lime with the beet,” said Kellogg, who was quick to credit former employee Constance Steinkamp with Atomic Cowboy’s addition of fresh vegetable juices. “For the sweetness, we found that Cointreau works better with the carrot, and Grand Marnier with the beet.” And both worked well with the salt-and-pepper rim already in use on the bar’s bloody mary. The drink’s nuanced flavor and vibrant color have made it a hit with patrons and, not surprisingly, a new standard on the menu. Atomic Cowboy, 4140 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.775.0775, atomiccowboystl.com
Parsnip Flavor Ice Parsnip juice, rum, lime, dill and sugar
Lavender Beets Knees at Niche
Culinary cocktails may take cues from the kitchen, but they tend to originate at the bar. The chefs at Niche, however, are turning that formula around, creating vegetable-based frozen cocktails for use on the restaurant’s tasting menu, including one made from juiced parsnips, rum, dill and sugar. “It’s got a profile like a piña colada – sweet, funky, tart,” explained chefowner Gerard Craft. “Parsnips are like candy, and that made me think of Caribbean drinks, but a lot more Midwestern.” The cocktail’s clean-flavored sweetness paired with the kick of the alcohol make it an effective intermezzo; the fact that it’s served just like a mini Fla-Vor-Ice popsicle and eaten by squeezing it out of its plastic tube adds creativity and levity to the fine-dining experience. “Dining gets so serious,” Craft said. “You need to loosen people up and give them some fun.” Niche, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com
Lavender Beets Knees Golden beet-infused gin, lavender honey and lemon juice The playfulness continues at the bar at Niche, where bartenders mix up a twist on the classic Bee’s Knees cocktail by infusing golden beets into gin. The drink was the result of a desire to make a cocktail that correlated with a dish from the kitchen that featured lavender and beets. “Red beets can be overpowering,” explained Murphy. “But golden beets, when they’re roasted, take on the seductive sweet-savory component we were looking for.” When infused into Pinckney Bend gin, a “very clean spirit” made in New Haven, Mo., that features a very light juniper flavor, the spirit takes on a golden hue and a delicate, earthy flavor that complements the floral notes of the lavender honey. Fresh lemon juice lends a balancing zing, as does the lavender salt rim on the glass. Niche, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com November 2013
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