B E S T
N E W
R E S T A U R A N T S the baked crab cake at wright's tavern, the best new restaurant of the year
ST. LOU I S’ I N D E P E N D E NT C U LI NARY AUTH O R ITY // SAUC E MAGAZ I N E .C OM // D EC E M B E R 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1
2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3
4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5
JAMES “MURR” MURRAY OF IMPRACTICAL JOKERS
THU, DEC 7
Y98’S DECK THE HALL BALL
FEAT. TRAIN, PHILLIP PHILLIPS, AND JP SAXE
SAT, DEC 9 COUNTESS CABARET STARRING
LUANN DE LESSEPS OF REAL HOUSEWIVES OF NEW YORK CITY
SUN, DEC 10
HOLIDAY SHOW!
SAMARA JOY: A JOYFUL HOLIDAY TUE, DEC 12
HOLIDAY SHOW!
DECEMBER 2023 • VOLUME 23, ISSUE 12 PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR ART DIRECTOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
PROOFREADER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERN
Chris Keating Meera Nagarajan Iain Shaw Lauren Healey Michelle Volansky Meera Nagarajan Lauren Healey Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Christina Musgrave, Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Iain Shaw, Matt Sorrell, Michelle Volansky Amanda Bretz, Heather Hughes-Huff Kelli Jones Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Ryan Tyrrell
KENNY G
THE MIRACLES HOLIDAYS & HITS TOUR
WED, DEC 13
Sauce was founded by Allyson Mace in 1999.
HOLIDAY SHOW!
HOME FREE THU, DEC 14
KARLOUS MILLER SAT, DEC 16
ON THE PROWL WINTER HOLIDAZE TOUR
STEEL PANTHER
PLUS FULL MOON FEVER
SUN, DEC 17 CHAMPAGNE SUPERNOVA NYE WEEKEND
To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. The entire contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright 2023 by Big Lou Holdings, LLC. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without the expressed written permission of the Publisher, Sauce Magazine, PO Box 430033, St. Louis, MO, 63143. Please call the Sauce office for back-issue information, 314-772-8004. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Big Lou Holdings, LLC. While
the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.
Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits. Sauce is available free of charge. Additional copies of the current issue may be purchased for $1.00 plus postage, payable in advance to the Sauce Magazine office at 1826 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis MO 63103. Sauce may be distributed only by Sauce authorized distributors. No person may, without prior written permission of Sauce, take more than one copy of Sauce's monthly issue.
ZEDS DEAD PLUS RUSKO & HEYS
FRI, DEC 29
TYLER HENRY THE HOLLYWOOD MEDIUM
TUE, JAN 9
6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
GET SAUCE M AGA ZINE E- M AILED DIRECTLY TO YOUR INBOX EVERY MONTH Rather than searching for a copy on stands around town, you can now receive the issue straight to your inbox every month. Scan the QR code or visit saucemagazine.com/digitalissue/join to subscribe to the magazine online, and keep an eye on our website and social media for more foodie content. Print magazine subscriptions are available for $40/year.
December 2023
contents D EC E M B E R 2 02 3
editors' picks 11 EAT THIS
Listen and subscribe to The Sauce, a weekly St. Louis restaurant podcast, available wherever you get your podcasts. New episodes released each Wednesday.
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.
The lobster Rangoon at Le Ono
by meera nagarajan 12 DRINK THIS Tiki Negroni at Maryland House
by iain shaw 14 MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE Tiffany Gilmore, Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis
by meera nagarajan 16 ELIXIR Classic cocktails, multiple ways
by matt sorrell 21 IN THE KNOW Holiday cocktail pop-ups
by matt sorrell
features
28 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS
martini and sidecar at wright's tavern, p. 28
The 9 restaurants that won our hearts this year
by lauren healey, meera nagarajan, michael renner, iain shaw, matt sorrell, michelle volansky
PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
COVER DETAILS BEST NEW RESTAURANTS The baked crab cake at Wright's Tavern, the Best New Restaurant of the year. Learn more on p. 28. PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7
8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9
10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
The lobster Rangoon at Le Ono is reason enough to pay a visit to this French Polynesian restaurant. Each serving includes four crispy Rangoons filled with fresh lobster claw and knuckle meat, cream cheese and finely chopped scallions. But the pièce de résistance is the housemade sweet chile sauce: a mix of honey, tamari, Sriracha, sesame oil and rice wine vinegar. Its subtle, sweet start is followed by a sneaky heat, both of which are harmonized by the cheese filling. Save the sauce! It also enhances most other dishes on the menu.
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
Le Ono, 101 S. Cherry St., O’Fallon, Illinois, leonorestaurant.com
Eat This
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
DRINK THIS The Tiki Negroni at Kevin Brennan’s Maryland House will lift your spirit through dark, cold nights. This Negroni uses aged rum instead of gin, establishing a core that is sweet yet rich in character. There’s fan service for Negroni lovers courtesy of Campari, but the bar fat-washes the bitter amaro in coconut oil to smooth its edge and give the drink a silky feel. Notes of coconut encourage daydreams of tropical getaways and cocktails on the beach, and the reverie is enhanced by bananainfused sweet vermouth and vivacious orange and tiki bitters. If you can’t escape the St. Louis winter, this tonic at least makes summer feel reassuringly within grasp.
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
44 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.497.4449, themarylandhouse.com
12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
“A couple of years into my cooking career, I went on a trip to India for about a month, starting in the south and going all the way up through India. The food is incredibly different in each region. We think we know Indian food, but in reality it has such variety and there are so many other influences from different cultures. In the south, they have lots and lots of spice fields – spice plantations, actually. All the spices were so fresh and so vibrant. There were things like green cardamom – at that point in my life, I didn’t even know cardamom could be green, because I’d only ever seen dried black cardamom. In India, they put cardamom in their coffee and their tea, which gives a very unique flavor.
MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE
TIFFANY GILMORE A S S I S TA N T E X E C U T I V E PA S T R Y C H E F , F O U R S E A S O N S
Tiffany Gilmore’s desserts and pastries for the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis are truly special. Each is infused with layers of flavor, restrained sweetness and subtle background notes that keep people guessing. Gilmore holds a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree and previously worked as a florist, which makes sense when you consider her desserts, artfully presented down to the tiniest details. Here, she details two life-changing meals that shaped her as a chef. – Meera Nagarajan
14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Quite often, when you say ‘spices,’ the first thing you think of is ‘hot and spicy.’ Being on spice plantations in India was a turning point: the realization that spice can be so much more than that. Spice introduces other flavor components and can really change the whole [flavor] profile. This got me thinking about how I was using sugar. Once I started to think of sugar as a spice, my desserts became less sweet. I started to really try to use sugar as a way to enhance the main flavor component.”
Manzanita, Oregon, 2014-15
“[This meal] wasn’t fancy at all and didn’t change the way I cook, but it’s probably my favorite meal that I’ve ever had. I was on the Oregon coast where you can catch Dungeness crabs. The water is brackish – it’s half fresh water, half seawater. You go out in these little dinghy boats, drop traps and make a circle in the water. Eventually, you come back, grab your traps and take the Dungeness crabs back to the dock, where they have these big pots. They fill the pots up with that same brackish water and boil it, then you drop your crabs in to cook. You don’t need butter or herbs, and the water is already salted. You sit on this dock just digging in with your hand and breaking open the freshest crab you’ll ever have in your life. It was a really lovely moment. The sun was setting, we had been out all day and the food was so fresh. Good friends, good times. It isn’t always what you’re eating or where you’re eating. The memories that are going to imprint most on you don’t have to be that Michelin-starred restaurant. Sometimes it’s these nostalgic moments that you really hold on to. I guess that’s why people like nostalgic food so much – it reminds them of childhood or of better times.”
December 2023
PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
Traveling in Southern India, 2013
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
CLASSIC COCKTAILS, MULTIPLE WAYS B Y M AT T S O R R E L L P H OTO BY G R EG RA N N E L L S
16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
smoked, aged negroni at noto italian restaurant
A classic cocktail stands the test of time not just because the basic formula yields delicious results, but also because it offers the curious imbiber a blank canvas for experimentation. Some places around town have taken OG drinks and made them their own, even devoting a section of the drink list to a single cocktail. Here are a few local bars offering multiple ways to enjoy a favorite drink.
Gin and Tonic
This famous pairing started off as a way to keep malaria at bay, but has become one of the most popular highballs around. Bonus: You don’t have to be a mixologist to pull off a quality sipper. Just mix and match gins and tonics to create a distinctive drink, no shaker required. Both locations of 4 Hands Brewing Co. supplement their beer offerings with a solid G&T list that features a variety of their 1220 Spirits gin collaborations in addition to 1220’s Origin range of gins. 4 Hands owner Kevin Lemp said the list is a good way to spread the word about the connection between 4 Hands and their 1220 Spirits line. “I love it as a customer,” Lemp said. “You can really get the full experience of the gin.” Meanwhile, at The Gin Room, there are usually four or five featured G&Ts, or guests can select from a mind-boggling array of gins and choose their own spirited adventure.
Spritz
Spritzes. The name conjures up visions of lazy afternoons spent whiling away the hours on European patios, drink in hand. These apparently straightforward patio sippers – just liqueurs (bitter or otherwise) and bubbles, really – can be anything but simple, with the right combination of ingredients. At Bistro La Floraison (where this author can be found tending bar most evenings), spritzes are most definitely a thing. There’s usually a trio of custom creations on the list that change seasonally, plus sparkly NA options like the Roselle Spritz, featuring gentian along with flavors of cinnamon, hibiscus and citrus, topped with ginger beer.
Negroni
While Noto Italian Restaurant in St. Peters may be known for its Neapolitan pizza, they do love their cocktails, and Negronis are a special December 2023
favorite. There’s always a traditional house version available, according to co-owner Kendele Noto Sieve, along with an aged Negroni that’s infused with smoke and features Ransom Old Tom Gin, Cinzano vermouth and smoked orange bitters. Lucky imbibers who time it right can also experience Noto’s clay pot Negroni. As the name suggests, it’s a Negroni that spends a couple of weeks aging in a clay vessel with dried figs. It’s only available periodically when the batch is ready – good luck!
Old-Fashioned
There may be no other cocktail that’s been riffed upon more than the venerable OldFashioned. The formula of spirit, sugar, bitters and water is the original cocktail that first appeared in print in the early 1800s. Its simplicity just begs for a little creative tweaking. A trio of takes are available at The Golden Hoosier: Fantastic Mr. Fox, Wake Up, Grandpa! and Brass Monkey. The latter has a split base of J. Rieger & Co. whiskey and rum with banana liqueur and J. Rieger’s Caffè Amaro – a tasty and altogether unique combo. In addition to their Negroni offerings listed above, Noto also has a selection of Old-Fashioned and Manhattan riffs with base spirits that range from Scotch (The Godfather) to apple brandy (chai Old-Fashioned). Matt Sorrell is a regular contributor to Sauce Magazine, and also tends bar part-time at Bistro La Floraison.
4 Hands at The District 17081 N. Outer 40 Road, Chesterfield, 4handsbrewery.com 4 Hands Brewery & Tasting Room 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 4handsbrewery.com The Gin Room 3200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.3411, natashasginroom.com Bistro La Floraison 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880, bistrolafloraison.com Noto Italian Restaurant 5105 Westwood Drive, St. Peters, 636.317.1143, notopizza.com The Golden Hoosier 3707 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.354.8044, thegoldenhoosier.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17
18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19
20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
IN THE KNOW H O L I DAY C O C K TA I L P O P - U P S BY M AT T S O R R E L L
IMAGE COURTESY OF ANGAD ARTS HOTEL
Festive cocktail pop-ups are as integral to the holiday season as the Yuletide playlist at our local grocery store – and a lot more fun. For those planning to belly up to the bar at one or more of these festive spots, here’s what you can expect. Remember that the places requiring reservations fill up quickly, so book early and don’t show up late. If you’re doing the walk-in thing and run into a bit of a wait, don’t be a Grinch – it’s the holidays, after all!
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
FROM LEFT: IMAGE COURTESY OF CASA DON ALFONSO; IMAGE COURTESY OF SIPPIN' SANTA
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
All I Want: The Queen of Christmas Pop-Up Art Bar
Angad Arts Hotel has all you want for Christmas at this diva-centric celebration, including small plates like cheese and charcuterie boards, hummus and flatbreads, along with cocktails like the Clausmopolitan, a festive take on the classic Cosmo. There are also glitzy photoops designed for you to channel your inner Mariah, and a top-of-the-world view of the city. Now through Dec. 31. 3550 Samuel Shepard Drive, St. Louis, 314.561.0033, angadartshotel.com
Casa Don Alfonso
Casa Don Alfonso’s $150 holiday cocktail tree features four pairs of seasonal libations made for sharing and served, decoration-style, on a “cocktail tree.” The four custom cocktails can also be
December 2023
purchased individually and include: the Rudolph, with burnt rosemary-infused gin, creme de mure and lemon juice; Santa’s Return, a combo of Baileys, Disaronno Velvet, Earl Grey tea syrup and chocolate bitters; the North Star, with Amrut Two Indies Rum, Amaro Nonino, maple spice syrup and orange bitters; and The Grinch, based on a bell pepper- and basil-infused tequila, lemon juice and agave nectar. Reservations are recommended. Now through Dec. 31. The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis, 100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.719.1496, casadonalfonsostlouis.com
The Chalet Le Meridien St. Louis Clayton
Where else can you test your skill on a bona fide curling rink? This rooftop experience also features heat lamps and fire pits for ultimate coziness. A menu of comforting, warm seasonal drinks –
think mulled wine, apple cider, smoky hot chocolate and a bourbon hot toddy – and some tasty small plates add to the fun. Friday nights feature live music and a $15 cover, which includes a s’mores kit. Reservations are recommended for the curling rink, but the pop-up bar is first come, first served. Now through Dec. 29: 5 to 8 p.m. on Fridays, and noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. 7730 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, lemeridienclayton.com
Lit Molly’s in Soulard
Imbibe from the “12 Drinks of Lit-mas” cocktail list, and nosh on an expansive menu of small bites. Highlights include the Deep Fried Ornaments – fried mozzarella balls with pesto and marinara – and the Away in a Manger (a shepherd’s pie). Reservations are required, except for four first-come, first-served bar stools.
Now through Dec. 23. 816 Geyer Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.6200, mollysinsoulard.com
Miracle STL Small Change
The granddaddy of STL holiday popup bars, Miracle returns for its eighth year. Miracle may have more holidaycentric decor per square foot than any other pop-up, thanks to co-owner Jamie Kilgore’s extensive collection of Christmas kitsch. In addition to the boozy holiday drinks, Miracle has a list of NA sippers as well, like Big Bulbs, with passion fruit, pomegranate green tea, lemon and club soda. There are even to-go cocktails and Miracle merch like vintage glassware. Reservations usually go quickly, but walk-ins are welcome – expect to wait a maximum of 20 minutes. Now through Dec. 30. 2800 Indiana Ave., St. Louis, drinkchristmas.com
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23
24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
IMAGES COURTESY OF MANGO SOCIAL MARKETING
Sippin’ Santa Planter’s House
Miracle’s beach bum cousin, Sippin’ Santa, features an array of tiki-inspired drinks and a tropical Yuletide vibe that’s part North Pole, part North Shore. Hang ten with cocktails like the North Pole Bowl, a rum experience made for two, or choose from a select list of Planter’s House favorites like the In A Pickle and Gin Soaked Boy, and pair them with bites like the Spam Slider and Waikiki Meatballs. Reservations are recommended. Walkins are welcome, but call ahead to check availability. Now through Dec. 30. 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, drinkchristmas.com
The Sleigh Shed The Train Shed
This Yuletide experience transforms The Train Shed at Union Station into The
December 2023
Sleigh Shed, with a custom cocktail list featuring traditional favorites like Noel Nog, a classic egg nog, and the decadent Three Kings, featuring two kinds of chocolate liqueur, hot cocoa and toasted marshmallow. Holiday-themed apps and desserts are also available, as is The Train Shed’s regular dinner menu. Reservations are not required. Now through Dec. 31. 201 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.923.3949, trainshed-stl.com
a walk through an outdoor light display. Reservations are required for the indoor experience, where two-, four- and six-top tables, VIP couches and VIP igloos are all available. There’s a heated tent outside to accommodate walk-in guests; the tent serves drinks, but no food. Now through Dec. 31. 5546 Chestnut St., Cottleville, 636.720.1905, publicschoolhouse.com
to distributing customized holiday gifts, including toys, clothing and gift cards, to families of children with special needs in St. Louis city. Reservations are recommended. Now through Dec. 31. 4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, yellowbellystl.com
Toasted Chestnut: A Christmas Pop-Up Bar and Winter Light Walk Public School House
Yellowbelly and Lazy Tiger
Yellowbelly and its adjacent cocktail companion, Lazy Tiger, are offering seasonal cocktail menus as well as some more understated holiday décor to get guests in the mood. Both spots are also offering a custom holiday glass designed by Kansas City artist John Malta, with 100% of proceeds going to St. Louis Family Gift Drive, an organization established and managed by co-owner Tim Wiggins’ mother that’s dedicated
When the pop-up is billed as a “snow globe” featuring “extreme décor,” you know you’re in for an over-the-top experience. Add Three Sixty’s stunning views of the city and a custom cocktail list of creative hot and cold drinks and it’s a Yuletide happening for sure. Feeling peckish? The restaurant’s full dinner menu is also available. Note that there’s a $10 cover after 10 p.m. Reservations are not required. Now through Dec. 30. 1 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.241.8439, 360-stl.com
Cottleville event venue Public School House’s Toasted Chestnut holiday popup returns for its fifth year with a list of holiday-themed drinks, food from Sugarfire Smoke House, an immersive indoor experience featuring an abundance of holiday decorations, and
Up On The Rooftop Three Sixty
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25
26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
BEST WRIGHT'S TAVERN, THE BEST NEW RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR
RESTAURANTS
28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS
NEW T H E W O N
9
R E S T A U R A N T S
O U R
H E A R T S
T H I S
T H A T Y E A R
By Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Iain Shaw, Matt Sorrell, Michelle Volansky December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29
W R I G H T ' S T A V E R N
30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
true. But I celebrate the straightforwardness of it. It personally makes me feel very at ease when I’m there.”
previous spread, from left: shrimp scampi at wright's tavern, the best new restaurant of the year; some of the front-ofhouse staff at wright's tavern
People dress up to go to Wright’s, and the servers are sharply attired, but it’s never stuffy: You’re here to feel good, not to feel judged or observed. You’re never far from other diners, and conversation between tables comes easily. This isn’t everyone’s style, and that’s fine, but we love a restaurant where a civilized meal feels like it could imminently spill over into a rambunctious party.
opposite page, from left: owner matt mcguire and executive chef cary mcdowell
PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS
Owner Matt McGuire and executive chef Cary McDowell’s initial motivation for Wright’s Tavern was to create a restaurant that served the kind of food they wanted to eat. McGuire and McDowell built themselves a place to enjoy a great steak and a Caesar salad, but more importantly, their December 2023
Clayton steakhouse also tapped into a communal longing: for delicious food and drinks, genuine hospitality, and the unbridled enjoyment that a really lovely restaurant can deliver. McGuire believes Wright’s Tavern has proved itself a perfect fit for this moment in time. “For this time,
for that neighborhood, for that space,” he said. “You never know until you do it, but I think it’s hit all of those things for sure.” Wright’s promises – and delivers – consistency, certainty and comfort in an era lacking those qualities. McGuire never reads the reviews of Wright’s,
positive or negative, but he can take a guess at what irks its critics. “The negative reviews are probably that it lacks exoticism: It’s a French dip roast beef sandwich, a hamburger, steak frites, halibut, salmon, whatever,” he said. “Those criticisms, if you can consider them to be criticisms, are
Wright’s is driven by the conviction that the simple food is the best; its ambition is to cook the best version of that food you’ve ever had. The greatest hits collection at Wright’s already includes the shrimp scampi with its addictive garlic-andchile sauce, the wedge salad with blue cheese and smoked bacon, the perfectly flaky potatocrusted halibut with lemon beurre blanc, and the salt and cream of the heady dauphinoise potatoes. McGuire said the simplicity and familiarity of these dishes creates its own challenges. “You can’t hide behind anything with some notions of novelty,” he said. Sourcing and execution make all the difference here. Take Wright’s baked crab cake for example, which features colossal lump crab from Fortune Fish & Gourmet in Chicago. “Colossal is just basically the largest
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31
32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
pieces of blue crab that you can get,” McGuire said. “There’s not any filler in there.” The crab cake is seasoned with salt and pepper, has just enough egg and dairy for binding, and is plated atop a delicious red pepper remoulade. It’s one of the very best dishes we’ve had this year, and no visit to Wright’s is complete without it.
opposite page: the staff at work at wright's tavern; this page: the sundae
PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS
McDowell has worked in the kitchens of some genuinely toptier restaurants in New York City; he knows and respects the value of creative, innovative cooking. But at Wright’s, he embraces the pursuit of metronomic consistency and excellence. “I enjoy the discipline and the challenge of staying excited about what are seemingly simple things,” he said. It’s difficult to rally a kitchen crew’s enthusiasm for making a roasted chicken every day, but McDowell said consistency flows from the application of fundamental principles. He tastes everything, every day. As a result, the cooks know the ingredients are right – and that simplifies the act of cooking. “It was drilled into me years ago, at the very beginning, that was the key,” McDowell said. “Most people are flippant and don’t take the time to do simple things.” McDowell estimates that he’s made every creme brulee that Wright’s has produced to date. So far, only two have failed
December 2023
the taste test. “That’s not bad, if you play the odds,” he said. The kitchen invests the same level of care in each item, regardless of price or perceived significance.
For McDowell, the butter served with your bread deserves as much attention as the ribeye sourced from Iowa Premium, a co-op run by several family farms producing corn-fed Black Angus beef. “It
may not be expensive butter, but it’s good butter, with great salt and great olive oil, done correctly at the right temperature and the right composition, with a really good piece of bread,” he said.
“Variance is not rewarded,” McGuire said. “If you come in and you have something and you enjoy it, and hopefully you do, the way that the business works is that you bring your friend in the next time and it has
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33
this page: the martini and sidecar at wright's tavern
opposite page, from left: owner matt mcguire and executive chef cary mcdowell
34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
they bring to the table, their understanding of the other’s role, and the deep respect and friendship between them. It’s rare to find a restaurant where the front and back of house are so finely balanced, and the diner reaps the rewards.
PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS
to be the exact same way that you had it when you were there, otherwise the business doesn’t work.” He puts the restaurant’s pommes frites forward as an example of the rigorous processes the kitchen repeats, day after day: Russet potatoes are cut, soaked in ice cold water, then blanched. The blanched potatoes are chilled again before finally being fried during service. “It’s an arduous
December 2023
process and it’s a little bit of a pain, but it’s also what adds up to be a really good chip [in the British sense],” McGuire said. As a customer, it’s easy to take a well-oiled restaurant operation for granted – as some do at McGuire’s other restaurant, Louie – but what looks effortless to the untrained eye is the result of years
of experience, untold hours of hard work and a diligent, gifted team that includes capable lieutenants. McGuire oversees operations on the restaurant floor, but gives credit to Sean Thomas and Rickey Whalen for leading the front-of-house team, while Sam DeClue and Josh Poletti run the kitchen under McDowell’s overall guidance.
McDowell said being present in the restaurant is another simple but critical part of his, and McGuire’s, contribution to Wright’s success. “I’m confident that I don’t have to be here on any given day, because these guys are prepared, but I also see the benefit of me being here every day,” McDowell said. He talks about his “daily dialogue” with McGuire, aided by the wealth of experience
Wright’s is earnest about the things that really matter, but isn’t averse to a dash of mischievous fun in the appropriate places. From the indulgent martini (with accompanying sidecar) to the riotous ice cream sundae, the moments of jaw-dropping awe and delight are the cherry on top of a rich feast, served with charismatic aplomb. Whether it’s your place for special occasions, or a weekly haunt, Wright’s Tavern was the restaurant we all wanted to eat at in 2023, and there’s really no debate: It’s this year’s Best New Restaurant. – IS
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35
this page: sasquatch special at bagel union
opposite page, from left: cherry crunch bagels and the staff at bagel union
bagel union
36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
By any measure, the gold standard for bagel making is the New York method: simmering a ring of flour, yeast and maltbased raised dough in hot water, then baking it until shiny and glazed, with a chewy interior texture. Given the large number of New Yorkers and Jewish people who have settled here over the years, St. Louis’ relative paucity of traditional boiled-andbaked bagel bakeries has always been a mystery. After Pratzel’s Bakery closed in 2012 and the Bagel Factory closed in 2022, local bagel lovers have mostly had to endure frozen brands or fluffy bread-like simulations trying to pass for the December 2023
real deal. But just when we thought we’d never eat another salt or onion or tzitzel water bagel, we’ve seen four new retail bagelries launch in the metro area in 2023 alone. Our favorite is Bagel Union, at the corner of Big Bend Boulevard and South Elm Avenue in Webster Groves. Coowners Sean Netzer and Ted Wilson do for the modest bagel what they did for fresh baked bread and superb pizza and sandwiches at Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery. Netzer and Wilson are obsessive about their bagels – their research for Bagel Union took them to New York City, where they drew inspiration from visits to favorite bagel
shops including Shelsky’s and Absolute Bagels. With over 10 types of bagel and a minimum of five varieties of schmear at any given time, Bagel Union will satisfy even the most ardent bagel snob. The classics are present – onion, salt, egg and plain – along with the expected everything, poppy seed, whole wheat and sesame seed bagels. Then there’s the tzitzelnickel, a rolled-incornmeal pumpernickel bagel inspired by tzitzel rye bread, a St. Louis classic that Pratzel’s Bakery in particular was renowned for. For a couple bucks more, there’s a cheese bagel featuring a rotating combination
of cheeses (Chihuahua and cheddar, for example), available daily at 9:30 a.m. Three non-savory bagels are available: cherry crunch, blueberry and carrot. Bagel Union sources plain cream cheese from Sierra Nevada Cheese Co. – they use this as the base for other flavors like scallion, veggie, lox and jalapeno. Great coffee is a must with great bagels; locally based Coma Coffee roasts a blend of single-origin beans exclusively for Bagel Union. Several bagel sandwiches and spreadable salads round out the menu, including the taste budtingling Iggy sandwich
with hot-smoked salmon, scallion cream cheese, Passenger Foods’ chile crisp, and cilantro salad on tzitzelnickel (or your choice of bagel). If you like Union Loafers’ smoked beet sandwich, the Goldie Lox is for you: It pairs smoked golden beets with cream cheese, pickled shallot, dill and lemon oil. Chicken, egg, spicy tuna, and smoked trout salads are perfect with any bagel you choose. After years of playing second (or 10th) fiddle to New York bagels, St. Louis is boiling and baking its way toward a bagel renaissance – and Bagel Union is leading the way. – MR saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37
38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39
NO. 3
opposite page, from top: unagi kabayaki; from left: shaun martin, sous chef; ashley rouch, general manager, nick bognar, chef and owner and ann bognar
40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
DO
this page: thai basil and toro with thai basil pesto, fried shallots and chile oil
SA
December 2023
PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
December 2023
Tomes have already been written about the culinary prowess of Sado’s chef-owner Nick Bognar. Bognar’s career has thrilled and delighted us since 2017, when he breathed fresh air into Nippon Tei, his mother Ann Bognar’s West County restaurant. His first solo venture, Indo in Botanical Heights, topped our 2019 Best New Restaurants list, blending a unique combination of signature Thai flavors and classic Japanese techniques with a wild sense of fun. Nods from the James Beard Foundation, Food & Wine, GQ and Esquire followed.
serves as a highlight reel of Bognar’s career thus far. Familiar favorites like crab Rangoon and California rolls have made the cut from Nippon Tei’s comfortable JapaneseAmerican menu. There’s a welcome cameo from Indo’s signature dish, the isaan hamachi. This irresistible sashimi dish is dressed with coconut naam pla, Thai kosho and candied garlic. Even the mural from local artist Jessica Bremehr calls back to the beloved Indo bathroom – and yes, we do mean beloved. What other restaurant’s bathroom has its own Instagram account?
Enter Sado. Bognar’s restaurant on the Hill opened a few weeks after the final service at Nippon Tei, which the Bognar family shuttered at the end of February 2023. Less of a move or expansion and more of a Pokemon-style evolution to the next level, Sado
Although Sado’s full menu features delightful, delicately fried tempura and mouth-watering A5 Wagyu beef, fish is the main attraction. To that end, the restaurant is best experienced at the eight-seat sushi bar in the front of the space. Diners can feel overwhelmed in the thundering back dining room, but cozier vibes abound in the front room, where you can watch magic happening behind the counter.
We can scarcely think of another restaurateur that has elevated the culture and palates of St. Louis diners more than Bognar. His approach is refreshingly bold and unapologetic in everything from technique to flavor and service, but he deserves a special accolade for introducing diners to chawanmushi, an irresistibly creamy dashi custard that Sado tops with king crab and blue crab meat and a shellfish bisque with a dash of truffle oil.
Sado’s facilities for dry-aging are more expansive than anything Bognar has had at his disposal at either Nippon Tei or Indo, and the restaurant’s frequently updated fish market menu includes rare cuts like American
For all its many virtues, Sado still feels more like a chapter in an unwinding tale rather than a standalone story. It doesn’t quite feel like the peak of what Nick Bognar has to offer as a restaurateur – and that’s the most exciting part. – MV
farm-raised unagi. Consequently, Sado is unrivaled either in its selection or presentation of fish. Each piece of nigiri is treated as a unique dish, popping with bright flavors and sweet-savory balance. You can’t help but think, “Oh, this is what sushi is supposed to taste like?” The robata yaki section of the menu highlights the dry-aged selections like Japanese seabream and Atlantic salmon, grilled to crisp perfection on the binchotan grill using only Japanese oak charcoal.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41
N O. 4
1929 PIZZA & WINE
Artisan Bakery – before spending most of the past decade traveling the world. Informed by all their experiences and adventures, 1929 brims with an industrious, infectious verve, serving food characterized by simple yet thrilling flavors. 1929 is only open for service three days a
42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
week, but the work takes six days. Although the schedule is busy, Matt said the restaurant’s format allows space for a degree of fine-tuning he never had time for with his former bakery. “If I learned any particular lessons from 222 [Artisan Bakery], I don’t feel like we ever did anything well enough,” he said. “There
wasn’t enough time to focus on doing one thing to the absolute best of my or my staff’s ability.” At 1929, he only has two responsibilities. “To make really good bread and really good pizza dough,” he said. “I can take my time to truly dial it in to as close to perfect as I can get. And then I wake up the next
morning and try all over again.” The pizza dough is made from a levain starter and cold-fermented over three days. It’s a ritual that demands early rises and obsessive attention to detail, but this is who Matt is. He can regularly be found tweaking 1929’s HVAC system December 2023
PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
This pizza restaurant in Wood River, Illinois, represents a triumphant return to the Metro East for Amy and Matt Herren. The Herrens each made their mark on the Metro East food scene in the 2000s with their own venues – Amy with Fond, Matt as the co-founder of Goshen Coffee Roasters and Edwardsville’s 222
The menu’s tight focus enables consistency and quality, but a weekly rotation of specials and seasonal variations on items like the bruschetta and cannoli keep things interesting. When tomatoes are in season, the bruschetta might look very traditional. In fall, the tomatoes were rotated out; one recent iteration was topped with diced beets, feta, chives, lemon zest and olive oil. “We’ve been doing a butternut squash [bruschetta], we’ve done broad bean and the last green beans out of our garden,” Amy said. The Herrens take it as a compliment when customers tell them to add a certain pizza special to the permanent menu – but that doesn’t mean the customer’s wish will be granted. “They’ll say, ‘I would eat this every week,’ and we go, ‘Nope – just this week!’” Amy said.
opposite page: amy herren, coowner at 1929 pizza & wine
the mushroom pizza at 1929 pizza & wine
to ensure the temperature inside the building stays consistent while his dough is resting and proofing. “There’s a lot of fluctuations with the temperature inside the building, which we used to see on our Ameren bill, because I want to keep the fermentation very consistent,” he said. So many of the ingredients used here are either produced in-house or grown in the Herrens’ garden when in season: The mozzarella is December 2023
hand-pulled in the restaurant every day, the sausage is made in-house using meat from Rensing’s Pork & Beef, while the Herrens grow kale, garlic, tomatoes, eggplant and more. The pizza itself is wood-fired, with a generous, chewy outer crust, but it isn’t designed to emulate Neapolitan pizza or any other specific style. The Herrens have eaten a lot of pizza in a lot of places, and 1929’s pizza is the aggregate of their favorites. “It’s the pizza we wanted to make,” Amy said.
The mushroom pizza exemplifies everything that’s good about 1929’s pies: It usually features a blend of cremini, oyster and shiitake mushrooms, along with a Parmesan cream sauce, Fontina, freshly picked thyme and chives and finally a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Each pizza on the menu is listed alongside a recommended wine varietal for pairing, but you don’t need to order a bottle: house red and white wines are available by the glass for a very affordable $6.
As if all this wasn’t enough, each Friday and Saturday, one table per night is held for the reservation-only chef ’s table experience, a seven- to nine-course tasting menu with wine pairings. Amy does all of the cooking, while Matt does the wine pairings. The current menu includes a winter caprese, scallops with spaghetti squash and cauliflower puree, ravioli with sauteed greens, ricotta, pesto broth and Parmigiano Reggiano, steak frites and more. “It’s not for the faint of heart,” Matt said. Amy Herren jokes that she teases customers sometimes, offering them extra napkins and reminding them, “It’s just pizza, after all.” Nothing could be further from the truth. – IS
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43
44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45
NO. 5
BLACK S A LT
this page: the thali platter at black salt
opposite page: the black salt cocktail
46 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
When it comes to Indian food, West County residents aren’t lacking for choice. Competition is fierce, with newcomers like The Curry Club and Red Chili facing up to stalwarts like Taj Palace. This year, Chesterfield’s Black Salt proved it has the chops to go toe-to-toe with the best, executing crowd-pleasing tandoori classics and serving up surprising fusion twists on staples (think garlic-truffle naan or black miso chicken tikka). Whatever you’re craving, Black Salt has something to match the mood, and enough on the menu to require return visits. These are a few of our favorite dishes.
PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
Thali Platter Think of a thali platter as a buffet that comes to you. A plate of perfect rice, buttered naan and an appalam – a crunchy chip made from lentil flour – anchor the plate. The rainbow-shaped platter is filled with side dishes in little bowls to eat with the rice or naan. The varied dishes can include aloo gobhi (roasted cauliflower and potato with spices), yellow dal tadka flavored with cumin, or raita, a cooling yogurt sauce with cucumber. It’s an efficient and exciting way to taste several dishes from the menu in one fell swoop. Paneer Tikka Masala The paneer tikka masala is a standout among the saucy, gravy-style dishes, with a creamy, tomatobased sauce and big chunks of paneer cheese. Pani Puri There are some less familiar favorites too, like the pani puri, an appetizer that is as fun to eat as it is delicious. Four puri, fried, December 2023
hollow bite-sized puffs are filled with cooked potato, shallots and chickpeas and served on top of a bed of crispy puffed rice. Alongside is a tiny pitcher of pani, a tamarind- and mint-flavored water. Pour the pani into the puri, then immediately pick it up and finish it in one bite. It’s a symphony of textures, varying temperatures, and a lively way to start a meal. Black Salt cocktail Choose vodka or tequila as the base for this drink, which is flavored with lime – sour and sweet and fresh – and a confetti of chopped mint and a little dried chile. It’s herbal, spicy and refreshing. Naan of any kind Black Salt’s naan is pillowy and soft, strong enough to stand up to the saucy dishes and soft enough so that it pulls apart with ease. Whether the naan comes slathered in butter, topped with chile and garlic, or garlic and truffle for an East-meets-West twist, it is beautiful every time. Tandoori meat The tandoori chicken is juicy with a charred crust, a delicious version of a fan favorite. But it doesn’t end there: Minty lamb seekh and tender tandoori shrimp are cooked to perfection. Gulab jamun for dessert Gulab jamun is a kind of fried doughnut made with a milk powder dough, dunked in a sugar syrup flavored with saffron. Here, they’re served split and placed on a swipe of citrus-scented mascarpone cheese for a fresh take on a standard that took a beloved dessert to new heights. Enjoy them while they’re warm! – MN saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47
Fleur STL this page, from left: cory stieb and owner at fleur stl, tim eagan
opposite page: the slinger at fleur stl
The 2020 closure of longtime St. Louis fixture Eat-Rite Diner left a hole in the downtown culinary scene. But when Fleur STL opened in that iconic building in the final weeks of 2022, it was clear that chef-owner Tim Eagan had brought something even better to the table. Fleur’s menu contains echoes of its predecessor’s diner fare, but a more upscale approach is evident in everything from the classy renovation of the space to the food itself. Eagan’s continual presence ensures a high
48 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
degree of quality control. “It’s neat here because we’re actually making the food in front of you from start to finish,” Eagan said. “It’s me, the chef, doing all the prepping and cooking – no one else cooks your food.” Nearly every component of each dish is made from scratch in-house. The fried Brussels sprouts are roasted, flash-fried for a super crispy finish, and seasoned perfectly with bacon, shallots and a sweet-and-sour apple cider reduction that takes a full day to reduce
from a gallon to a mere 16 ounces. Attention to detail is clear throughout the menu: The tall stack of hand-breaded onion hay atop Fleur’s slinger is shatteringly crisp and adds a unique touch to the diner classic. Even the fries are special – handcut, brined overnight and blanched in the morning, they’re fried to order and coated in a delicious house seasoning that is used in other menu items like Fleur’s highly popular burger. Another standout item is the deviled eggs with a light-as-air whipped filling topped
with candied bacon and flash-fried jalapeno. The succinct menu also features well-made classic cocktails, including an Old-Fashioned, a bloody mary with housemade mix and candied bacon, and an espresso martini with housemade coffee liqueur. In addition to breakfast and lunch service, Fleur hosts pop-up dinners a few evenings each month (tickets are available online as dates are released) that showcase a wider array of offerings than the daytime menu. “It’s an opportunity
for me to be creative,” Eagan said, adding that he occasionally makes items that have been featured at the evening pop-ups if guests request them during Fleur’s regular hours. Having worked in many large-scale kitchens around town, returning to a smaller format has been a breath of fresh air for Eagan. “I’ve been so used to working in hotels and doing large volumes that I haven’t necessarily seen the people I’m serving,” he said. “It’s been rewarding to get to watch people actually enjoying my food.” – LH December 2023
PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
BEST NEW RESTAURANTS OF 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 49
this page: open-faced bagels at deli divine
opposite page: the interior at deli divine
DELI DIVINE With Deli Divine, restaurateur Ben Poremba is filling the gap for an authentic Jewish deli in St. Louis city. The restaurant’s masterfully executed menu of classics does more than just hold space – it holds its own in the inevitable comparison with favorite delis in Chicago and New York. Pick your favorite: pastrami, corned beef, beef tongue, gefilte fish, herring, rye and pumpernickel bread can all be had. There’s a panoply of Reubens to choose from, a plethora of kugels and knishes, egg salad, chopped liver – the list goes on and on. The selection of New York bagels and assorted toppings is worth the trip alone. Choose plain, poppy seed, sesame, everything, seeded pumpernickel or marble versions, then
top them with a choice of fish – think lox, smoked trout or even caviar – or choose one of the many sandwich options. Much of Deli Divine’s fare is also available to grab and go, so you can enjoy the deli experience at home. Buy bagels by the half-dozen or dozen, meats by the pound and smoked fish by the quarter-pound. Also, don’t miss the market at the back of the deli, which sells babka, halva and much more. Poremba aims not only to please palates, but to create a sense of neighborhood and community while honoring the deep tradition and history of the Jewish deli. Deli Divine is rising to each of those challenges – and succeeding. – MS
50 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
THE BEST DISHES WE ATE THIS YEAR
Meera Nagarajan, executive editor Baked crab cake – Wright’s Tavern Salt cod croquetas – Bar Moro Bacalao croquetas – Idol Wolf Cacio e pepe cream cheese – Bagel Union Vermont cheddar waffle – Bowood by Niche Coconut tres leches – Taqueria Morita Cannoli – 1929 Pizza & Wine
Lauren Healey, digital editor Fried Brussels sprouts – Fleur STL Valbreso and tomato confit – Le Ono Ice cream sandwich – Louie Mushroom pizza – 1929 Pizza & Wine
Michelle Volansky, digital creative director Coconut tres leches – Taqueria Morita Chawanmushi – Sado Crab Rangoon nachos – Tim’s Chrome Bar Green tea matcha ice cream – Nobu’s
PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Iain Shaw, managing editor Baked crab cake – Wright’s Tavern Boiled fish with Chinese green pepper – ChiliSpot Blood orange marmalade and prosciutto burrata – Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria Tiramisu – Noto Italian Restaurant Four cheese pizza – Fordo’s Killer Pizza
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 51
NO. 8
KAI N TAYO BY NICHE
52 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
Randy and Sally Arcega’s Kain Tayo (“let’s eat” in Tagalog) is the latest local eatery winning St. Louisans’ hearts and stomachs over to the cuisine of the Philippines. The Midtown restaurant offers a menu of traditional, comforting favorites like lumpia (egg rolls filled with pork, onions, carrots and celery with sweet chile sauce on the side), pancit (stir-fried rice noodles with pork and various veggies) and the unofficial national dish of the Philippines: chicken adobo (tangy chicken marinated in soy sauce and vinegar and served over rice). For those who want to dive a bit deeper into the cuisine, the restaurant also has dishes like sinigang, a sour pork soup, and pinakbet, a pork and shrimp stew chock full of squash, okra, eggplant, tomato and more.
opposite page, dishes at kain tayo
this page, from left: sally and randy arcega at kain tayo
All of this deliciousness comes courtesy of chefowner Sally Arcega. Though new to the Lou, the Arcega family had been cooking up faithful Filipino flavors under the Kain Tayo name since 2019 in Trenton, Illinois. They moved to St. Louis earlier this year to bring their food to a bigger audience, and we’re so glad they did. – MS
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 53
this page: ono ikanone, co-owner of levels nigerian cuisine
PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
opposite page, from left: efo riro with pounded yam; party jollof rice plate with chicken
Take any representative regional dish, anywhere in the world, and you’ll find big opinions on whose style is best. In West Africa, jollof rice is often the subject of these familiar debates. Ono Ikanone, coowner of Levels Nigerian Cuisine, knew jollof rice was not to be played with: The rice at his restaurant had to be on point.
54 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
According to Ikanone, jollof rice originated in the Senegambia region, a stretch of land between the Senegal River and the Gambia River. Its popularity spread throughout West Africa, where each area put their own spin on the dish. Ikanone built Levels’ version around the recipe for the smoky jollof he
grew up with in Nigeria. “We just have tomato, bell pepper, habanero and onions – we blend that and that’s our base for the rice,” he said. The Party Jollof at Levels comes with beef or tender chicken on the bone, as well as slightly sweet plantains. The signature smoky note traditionally came from
cooking the rice over firewood for large events like weddings (hence the “Party” in the name). At Levels, the smokiness is derived from herbs like bay leaves and thyme, as well as the addition of wrapped charcoal placed directly in the pot. Each component complements the next, as the jollof’s layers of heat gradually come into focus.
December 2023
Don’t miss the efo riro, a stew made with fresh spinach, bell peppers and a spice blend Ikanone buys from Nigeria. The vegetables shine, but the star is the pounded yam that can be served with it. Pounded yam, which is similar to fufu, is made from white yams and has a bouncy texture and neutral taste that is intended to complement the efo riro’s mélange of flavors. “The [pounded yam’s] texture is fluffy and light and soft enough to eat with your hand, but firm enough to use as a vessel for soup,” Ikanone said. The pepper soup – salty, nutty with heat that has a slow build – is another standout. “It’s usually very spicy and in Nigeria you serve it at events, but it’s also a go-to when you are sick, to clear your sinuses,” Ikanone said. The soup is served with goat meat,
December 2023
cooked at length in a flavored broth, which completely tenderizes the meat as well as mellowing its flavor. Other dishes Ikanone likes recommending to guests include the egusi soup (made with melon seeds, palm oil, vegetables and tomato) or his own favorite, the marinated and grilled whole tilapia. The response to the menu has been positive, even for the contentious jollof. “I have folks come in that have never had Nigerian food before, and I usually thank them for being adventurous. For Nigerians, they say, ‘I’ve missed this, I’ve been away from home and this reminds me of home,’” Ikanone said. “It’s inspiring that we have people from all walks of life coming together to try our food. We say food brings us together, but we weren’t quite expecting this – and we’re thankful.” – MN
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 55
PAR TN ER C ON T EN T
STL FOODIE GIFT GUIDE PARKER'S TABLE GIFT BASKET Parker's Table offers everything from best-in-class wines, specialty foods, craft beers, and small-batch spirits, to local and imported artisanal goods. Expertly curated custom gift packages are available with swift delivery in the St. Louis area. Don't miss the made-to-order sandwiches and cheese offerings! Parker's Table, 7118 Oakland Ave, Richmond Heights, parkerstable.com
BAKLAVA GIFT BOXES Sedara offers a wide variety of Iraqi and Turkish baklava made with love. Order and ship boxes of assorted baklava in multiple sizes. They make a perfect gift to send to friends and family across the country. Sedara Sweets & Ice Cream, multiple locations, sedarasweets.com
SWITCHGRASS SPIRITS BOTTLED-IN-BOND RYE WHISKEY Arriving just in time for the holiday season is Switchgrass Spirits' highly anticipated Bottled-in-Bond Rye Whiskey. This special whiskey designation means it's been made by the same distiller in the same season, kept on site, aged at least 4 years, and bottled at 100 proof. This is Switchgrass's oldest whiskey with notes of sweetbread, spice, and a fruit pie finish. This special new bottle makes the perfect gift for any whiskey lover. Switchgrass Spirits, 6100 Idadale Ave, St. Louis, switchgrassspirits.com
56 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
PA R TN ER CON TEN T
AUTHENTIC FRENCH MACARON & FINE CHOCOLATE GIFT BOXES Le Macaron authentic French macarons are made with the world’s finest ingredients, au natural! Also offering gourmet chocolates, tarts and cakes, French gelato, classic French pastries, and more. Treat your friends, family, employees, and business partners! Create your own holiday gift box in 6, 12, 24 or 36 count boxes with your choice of 20+ flavors. Open M-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 9am-9pm. Le Macaron French Pastries of Saint Louis, 111 W Lockwood Ave, Old Webster Groves, 314.395.6094
PROJECT 1970 ESTATE GROWN DRY RED BLEND Project 1970 is a celebration of St. James Winery's 50-year legacy and multi-generational commitment to producing quality wine. All estate-grown, this wine showcases the unique terroir that Missouri has to offer with a combination of French-Hybrid grape varietals as well as Vinifera. This elegant dry red blend has a distinctive aroma of blackberry and dark cherry, held together with hints of oak and toast. Gentle tannins give way to the elegant vanilla, plum, cherry, and chocolate. The warm dark fruits linger with a warm rich finish. Project 1970 won 94 points and a platinum medal at the International Wine & Spirits Competition Critics Challenge. St. James Winery, 540 State Rte B, St James, stjameswinery.com
6 SOAP BAR GIFT SET This gift set is a scent celebration of all the best things about one of the most unique culinary neighborhoods of St. Louis, The Hill. Soap factory Herbaria happily resides in the largest, most intact Italian neighborhood in the United States. Each bar is an olfactory trip to little Italy, minus the garlic. Herbaria, 2016 Marconi Ave., The Hill, herbariasoap.com
GIFT BASKETS FROM EDERA MARKET Edera Italian Eatery offers more than just a refined dining experience in a casual, come as you are atmosphere. With the addition of Edera Market in their lobby next-door, you can create custom gift baskets with 1 or 2 bottles of wine and pair it with goodies, spreads, and antipastos of your choosing. Treat your friends, family and employees with a gift sure to please! Edera, 48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, ederastl.com
December 2023
38 DEGREES NORTH ESTATE GROWN DRY WHITE BLEND This dry white blend has aromas of honeyed peach and jasmine which represent the vineyards in which the wine is grown, and emanate from the fruit just before harvest. Enjoy supple tannins and spiced tangerine on the palate. This wine is featured in the Explorer Collection which is a celebration of St. James Winery's 50-year legacy and multi-generational commitment to producing quality wine. Featuring five elegantly balanced wines, the collection highlights regional standout varietals such as Norton and Vignoles. 38 Degrees North won 91 points at the International Wine & Spirits Competition Critics Challenge St. James Winery, 540 State Rte B, St James, stjameswinery.com
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 57
PARTNER CONTENT
City Seafood co-owners Mike Vujevic and Brad Burns
City Seafood delivers seafood to the most prestigious dining establishments in St. Louis BY AMANDA BRETZ
City Seafood’s Co-owner, Brad Burns, who launched several other area businesses and is a Board member of local St. Louis charities such as Haven House and Junior Achievement, is a St. Louis native and excited about the partnership. “We want support local businesses and help St. Louis grow its restaurant, country club, and wholesale scene through quality offerings. There are a lot of opportunities. St. Louis is a great place to live and work, and I like investing in the community.”
Though new on the scene, City Seafood comes with years of experience. Co-owner, Mike Vujevic has been in the seafood business his whole life. “I love working with the restaurants, country clubws, caterers, and hotels. I value my long-time relationships with the restaurant owners and chefs.” Mike has worked in every part of the business, from cutter to purchasing, to delivery, and everything in between. He has over two decades of experience in the seafood, wholesale, and food service business. He was previously Vice President of Bob’s Seafood, a well-known St. Louis establishment that also serviced a wide variety of retail and wholesale customers through the St. Louis area. “I wouldn’t want to be doing anything else.” With his experience and contacts in the business, Mike’s goal is to provide the St. Louis restaurant scene the freshest variety of product in the business.
After connecting through a mutual friend, the two began laying the groundwork to open City Seafood. From finding a warehouse, to putting together a staff and sourcing inventory, City Seafood is now able to offer St. Louis the best variety of fresh and frozen products. Their offerings include selections such as sushi-grade tuna, salmon and halibut, scallops, live oysters, clams, shrimp, and crab legs. Other less known seafood is also available such as grouper, branzino, triple tail, and arctic char. Mike’s motto is “If the chef wants it, we can do it.” Most of the inventory is sourced from the Northeast, Florida, and Louisiana, as well as California, Oregon, Washington, and Alaska, and Mike’s team includes cutters and drivers with years of experience serving the unique needs of their customers.
58 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
“There’s a definite need for City Seafood in St. Louis since most restaurants serve some sort of seafood, and
there’s lots of restaurants that want sushi-grade tuna and Alaskan halibut,” Vujevic said. The goal is to start off with developing their brand as a wholesaler and then expand into the retail market with a direct to consumer offering in the near future. Though the business just opened, the two have a big vision for the company. “Bob’s Seafood was a very successful business, but we want to expand beyond that,” Burns said. The partners have already found their groove within the company and each work to bring their own unique skillsets to provide the best environment for their customers, as well as for their team. To achieve that, Vujevic lends his expertise with years of industry, product, client, supplier, and distribution experience, and Burns lends a strategic vision to the business having launched and grown several other successful start-up businesses from the ground up. Though the Gateway to the West may not currently be known for its seafood, Burns and Vujevic are making it their goal to bring premier product to the forefront to help make this vision a reality for St. Louis’ chefs and their fine dining establishments.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF UNSPLASH AND CITY SEAFOOD
When you envision fresh seafood, St. Louis might not be the first city that comes to mind. It’s location from the Gulf and both coasts make it one of the most inconvenient places to purchase fresh fish and seafood. That’s all about to change. City Seafood opened its doors on Oct. 1, 2023, with a vision of processing and delivering top quality fresh fish, seafood, caviar and other high quality products to premier dining establishments throughout the St. Louis metro area.
For more information and to submit your info for their mailing list, visit cityseafoodco.com. December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 59
PARTNER CONTENT
Here for the New Year If you plan on getting out and about this New Year’s Eve, here are some great options.
Blast From The Past New Year's Eve Party at Armory STL Take a trip down memory lane this New Year's Eve at Armory STL's Blast From The Past NYE Party. Each bar will take on iconic time periods from The Roaring Twenties to Y2K. Dress up, dress down, or dress in theme – there will be something for everyone at Armory STL. Enjoy the all-inclusive food and drink offerings, live music from Dr. Zhivegas, Champagne toast, games and much more on Sunday, Dec. 31. Armory STL, 3660 Market St, St. Louis, 314.282.2720, armorystl.com
60 I SAUCE December 2022MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
New Year's Eve Party at Edera Italian Eatery At Edera Italian Eatery’s New Year’s Eve party from 8 p.m. to midnight, you can enjoy a buffet of Italian classics, an open bar, plus a Champagne toast when the clock strikes 12. There’s also a photo booth to capture the moment, along with music by local party band McLovin, which plays hits from the 50s all the way to today. If you’d like to avoid surge pricing on your favorite ride-hailing apps, rooms are available for $99 at the AC Hotel by Marriott just around the corner. In addition, the event space is available throughout the month, so call today to book your holiday party.
Special New Year's Eve Menu at Vangel's Restaurant & Bar
Three-Course Dinner and Live Concert at Cyrano's Cafe
At Vangel’s Restaurant & Bar, there will be an a la carte special menu just for the night, including steak and seafood options. In addition, there will be special themed cocktails from their excellent bartending staff. Although Vangel’s is typically closed on Sundays, it’ll be open from 5 to 10 p.m. pm this special evening, and reservations are available on Resy.
Cyrano’s Cafe is hosting New Year's Eve featuring a three-course, chefcrafted dinner and a live concert with Erin Bode with shows at both at 5:30 and 9 p.m. Space is limited, and this event is highly popular, so call today to book your table. Drinks, dessert and gratuity are not included in the ticket price.
Vangel’s Restaurant & Bar, 10017 Manchester Road, Warson Woods,
Cyrano's Cafe, 603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3232, cyranos.com
314.698.2060, vangelsrestaurant.com
Edera Italian Eatery, 48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7227, ederastl.com
DecemberI 2023 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE 1
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 61
62 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
December 2023
December 2023
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 63