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kafir lime rasam, recipe on p. 30

INDIAN

accent 8 modern takes on classic dishes

GUIDE TO BEER

(FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER) ST. LOUIS’ March 2018 INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

R E V I E W

T R E N D

PIG & PICKLE

WATC H

PEGU CLUB

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M ARCH 2018 • VOLUME 18, ISSUE 3 What’s the best kind of burger?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Western burgers with barbecue sauce and onion rings

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS, FACT CHECKERS

Allyson Mace Good meat + American Meera Nagarajan cheese + crispy lettuce Heather Hughes + soft, squishy bun = Catherine Klene simple perfection Matt Sorrell Catherine Klene Megan Gilmore Michelle Volansky Julia Calleo, Ashley Gieseking, Virginia Harold, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Dave Moore, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Katie O’Connor Glenn Bardgett, Andie Divelbiss, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Laura Kern, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Kevin Korinek, Catherine Klene, Claire Ma, Meera Nagarajan, Ashok Nageshwar, Maggie Pearson, Michael Renner, Matt Sorrell, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Andie Divelbiss, Laura Kern, Claire Ma An American cheeseburger from O’Connell’s, to me, is perfect. It’s never fallen short of the highest expectations.

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com. To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com. All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2018 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply. Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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contents MARCH 2018

editors' picks cranberry panna cotta p. 17

9 E AT THIS The Captain at Mac’s Local Eats

by heather hughes 10

TR EN DWATCH by catherine klene, meera nagarajan and matt sorrell 13

HIT LIST 4 places to try this month

by catherine klene and matt sorrell

reviews 17 N E W AN D NOTABLE Pig & Pickle

by michael renner

dine & drink 25 A SE AT AT THE BAR Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore

28 26 ELIXIR Pegu Club

20

LUNCH RUSH

by matt sorrell

BLK MKT Eats

by stephanie zeilenga 23

NIGHTLIFE Center Ice Brewery PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

by stephanie zeilenga

last course 40 STUFF TO DO by andie divelbiss and laura kern 42 WHAT I D O Brian Ivers

by catherine klene

March 2018

features INDIAN ACCENT traditional dishes with a modern edge by ashok nageshwar 36

GO WITH THE GRAIN by maggie pearson COVER DETAILS Indian Accent Learn to make kafir lime rasam and other traditional Indian dishes with a global twist in Indian Accent on p. 28. PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER TO SEE THE GUIDE TO BEER. Rebecca Schranz went from a wine drinker looking at graduate programs in library science to a brewer-coowner of Earthbound Beer in no time flat. Find out more about how she started brewing (and liking) beer on p. 23. Cover photo by Virginia Harold

Tune in to 90.7 KWMU when Sauce staff join St. Louis on the Air to discuss the must-try new restaurants on this month’s Hit List.

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e d i t o r s' p i c k s

EAT THIS Be warned: The Captain from Mac’s Local Eats inside Tamm Avenue Bar might make you angry at other burgers. Served with the basics (ketchup, mustard, pickles, thinly sliced onions and American cheese), it relies on PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

good cuts of quality meat, dry-aged and ground in-house, rather than gimmicky add-ons. With lacy, caramelized edges peeking out from a soft toasted bun, four is definitely not too many smash patties. Take a breath and let go of the burgers you thought you loved before.

MAC’S LOCAL EATS, 1225 TAMM AVE., ST. LOUIS, 314.479.8155, FACEBOOK: MAC’S LOCAL EATS March 2018

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T R E N D W A T C H BY CATHERINE KLENE, MEERA NAGARAJAN AND MATT SORRELL

N O T H I N G

I S

I M P O S S I B L E The Impossible Burger’s inventors had one goal: make a patty that looks like meat, smells like meat, tastes like meat and has the texture of meat without using any meat. When cooked right, the Impossible Burger tastes like the real thing. Plant-based “blood” (yeah, you read that right) is what makes the patty taste and look like beef – when cooked medium-rare, it bleeds like meat. Coconut oil delivers that addictive greasiness synonymous with a juicy burger. Try it at Polite Society, where you can get it in classic cheeseburger form, but we recommend it in a patty melt (pictured here) with buttered and toasted rye, melting cheese, caramelized onions, mustard and tons of Russian dressing. Versions have also been spotted at Frida’s, Retreat Gastropub and The Royale.

Whey, the commonly discarded byproduct of making cheese and yogurt, is getting a little more respect on local menus. Due to its acidity, whey can be used for marinades and as a protein supplement, while its probiotic qualities aid digestion. Along with occasional dinner menu appearances, Vicia recently featured housemade yogurt whey in a cocktail with Plymouth Gin, blood orange juice and club soda, as well as in a tonic of rose teainfused yogurt whey. Sidney Street Cafe makes use of a carrot-whey emulsion to complement a pan-roasted chicken breast, gnudi and Parmesan mousse. Those looking for a sweeter sensation can try Marcoot Jersey Creamery’s line of fruit and whey ices available at Dierbergs and Schnucks.

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W H AT A JERK

Few St. Louis-area restaurants offer authentic Jamaican fare (h/t: De Palm Tree and Irie Eats), but a handful of unexpected spots have offered their takes on the Caribbean classic, jerk chicken. Chef Matthew Birkenmeier spent six years cooking in Montego Bay, Jamaica, and occasionally throws a traditional jerk chicken preparation on the specials board at Quincy Street Bistro. The kitchen crew puts a fine-dining spin on it at The Preston, and Pangea chef-owner Jessie Gilroy adds a touch of the South with her jerk fried chicken. Pig & Pickle features several chicken preparations, including a jerk-inspired dish spiked with chipotle and served pulled with red beans and rice.

ONE FOR THE ROAD First, there were food trucks. Now, people are hitting the road with bars on wheels available for special events. The Wandering Sidecar Bar was the first to get in on the action, and recently added a red 1969 Chevy truck to its fleet. Food truck progenitor Sarah’s Cake Stop has added beverage to its repertoire with Sarah’s Drink Stop. Last year, brewer-turnedbarman Luke Oldham launched Beer Outside, a 20-tap beer trailer that hosts pop-up Biergartens, and CWE mainstay Brennan’s rolled out its Mini Me on wheels, complete with cigars and a turntable. Look for frozen cocktail bar Narwhal’s to take its new wheels for a spin this summer.

March 2018

PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK

MOVE OVER, MISS MUFFET


a previous version of the preston’s charred octopus dish with sunchoke puree

HERE COMES THE SUN

Long a familiar sight at farmers markets, sunchokes are now cropping up on menus all over town. These rugged, earthy little root vegetables can be enjoyed in myriad ways, from raw to roasted. A puree is a simple, effective way to make the most of sunchokes’ flavor. Boundary employs this approach to augment salmon and honey-roasted heirloom baby carrots to delicious effect, while The Preston at The Chase Park Plaza combines it with charred octopus, brown butter gnocchi and a smoked paprika vinaigrette. Elaia recently featured roasted sunchokes with braised chestnuts in a lobster bisque.

DIY BARTENDER Bars equipped with pouryour-own beer and wine systems combine two of our favorite things: tech and booze. Both Tapped in Maplewood and Germanian Brewhaus in Alton use the iPourIt system, which equips customers with wristbands. Just wave them in front of your selected beer and start pouring; each ounce is automatically added to your tab. Handcrafted by Bissinger’s in the CWE built a self-serve wine wall that dispenses 2-, 4or 6-ounce pours at the press of a button.

G O T (O AT) M IL K ? Oat milk is the new favorite nondairy milk for coffee. Where almond milk can carry the slightest bit of salt, and soy’s texture has some grittiness, oat milk is super smooth with a biscuit-y flavor and just a hint of sweetness. Swedish brand Oatly recently became available in the Midwest. Try it in a latte at Sump Coffee, Coma Coffee, Comet Coffee or Cursed Bikes and Coffee.

HOT STUFF

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Peanut butter and jelly. Bacon and eggs. Cauliflower and harissa? While it may not be quite as iconic a pairing, the combo of the crunchy veg and Tunisia’s unofficial national condiment has given local chefs plenty of inspiration. Sardella executive chef Ashley Shelton compresses the cauliflower with harissa before searing it, then tosses it with harissa again and serves it with herb yogurt, almond and garlic chips. At Reeds American Table, chef-owner Matthew Daughaday combines lemon pickled cauliflower with harissa – he said the mild citrus notes accentuate the North African spices. Meanwhile, at Blood & Sand, executive chef Brian Coltrain uses harissa as an accent on the plate with curried cauliflower, along with sour apple and pine nut brittle. March 2018

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hit list

4 new places to try this month

tasting flight at brick river cider co.

BRICK RIVER CIDER CO.

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Housed in a two-story, historic former firehouse named after St. Louis’ once-vibrant brick industry, Brick River Cider Co. has one foot in the past while it breaks new ground as the city’s first dedicated cidery. It opened with two flagships – the classic Cornerstone and farmhouse-style Homestead – and two limited editions – the beer-inspired Brewer’s Choice and the Firehouse Rosé: a tart and crisp cider made with sour cherries and hibiscus tea that tastes very much like a brut sparkling wine. Brick River’s taproom menu extends well beyond basic bar snacks. Executive chef Carlos Hernandez and consulting chef Christopher Lee put together dishes based on rustic fare from England and France, with elevated specialties like a trout fillet sauteed in brown butter with sage and pecans, served on wild rice pilaf, and pork Normandy: pork shoulder with cider-braised apples. Just want a burger and fries or a flatbread? Brick River can make that happen, too.

2000 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.244.5046, brickrivercider.com

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Small Change is easy to overlook – there’s no signage aside from a broken Falstaff sign above the entrance – but inside boasts exposed brick walls, a few TVs (verboten at a classy establishment like sister bar Planter’s House) and a bar filled with premium spirits, canned beer and kitsch collectables. The short cocktail list includes a rotating Manhattan on draft and unique drinks like the Mad as Hatters, a play on a Singapore Sling with Tom’s Town gin, cherry Heering, passion fruit and lime. Beer fans will love the can offerings with local favorites like 2nd Shift Brewing alongside national brands like Crooked Stave and Firestone Walker. Fear not, though; Busch and Bud are available, too, and Stag is always on draft. Hungry? Grab some quarters and head to the vending machines for candy bars, chips and Lunchables.

SMALL CHANGE

11982 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights, 314.942.2300, ddmaustl.com

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Fans of the now-shuttered Olive Green International Cuisine can get their fix of traditional Ugandan fare at the owners’ new establishment, Simba Ugandan Cuisine. Street food shines at Simba (Swahili for “lion”); don’t miss its house chicken wrap, a lackluster name for a tasty treat. Tender pieces of dark meat and veggies are tossed in a rich sauce that includes coriander, black pepper and onion, then rolled into a chapati and deepfried to crispy goodness. The Rolex, another traditional Ugandan street food, rolls a thin seasoned omelet with a dense, filling chapati for a vegetarian meal on the go. Simba also offers a variety of dairy-free curries; we filled up on the beef and bean versions served with simple yet savory vegetables and sweet coconut steamed rice.

SIMBA UGANDAN CUISINE

2800 Indiana Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Small Change STL

the brewer’s choice at brick river cider trout fillet at brick river cider mad as hatters at small change

small change

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

The bright, counterservice DD Mau in Maryland Heights offers customizable Vietnamese bowls with a base of vermicelli, rice or salad greens. The fried tofu and Vietnamese vinaigrette made for a fresh, vibrant meal atop a bed of vermicelli with lettuce, cucumber, cabbage, pickled veggies, peanuts and fried onion. For a more filling option, we added thin slices of tender pork and a creamy DD sauce to a rice bowl with the same veggie toppings and a sunny egg. Need something handheld? Grab a banh mi – both the rich pork and tender tofu were excellent with a perfect balance of cucumbers, pickles, creamy mayo and a sneaky jalapeno or two. DD Mau also offers plenty of snacks to accompany your bowl; order the crisp Vietnamese egg rolls filled will ground shrimp and pork or the fluffy bao sliders with tofu or chicken.

DD MAU

8531 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.484.2530, Facebook: Simba Ugandan Restaurant

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

chocolate cake with malted ice cream at pig & pickle

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

pig & pickle BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JOHNSON S O M E W H E R E B E T W E E N S M A L L P L AT E S A N D E N T R E E S sits Pig & Pickle, the 6-month-old

DeBaliviere Place restaurant in the space once occupied by Atlas Restaurant. When chef-owner Ryan Lewis moved here after closing Driftwood Eatery & Cocktail in Springfield, Illinois, he brought along many of the same concepts: a dedication to locally sourced ingredients, a casual rusticity, a menu that encourages sharing and grazing, and a well-

n e w a n d n o t a b l e P I G & P I C K L E p . 1 7 / l u n c h r u s h B L K M K T E AT S p . 2 0 / n i g h t l i f e C E N T E R I C E B R E W E RY p . 2 3 March 2018

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which were mostly bland, bite-sized vehicles for the accompanying sweet barbecuemustard sauce and buttermilk dressing.

reviews

While the grazing part of the Pig & Pickle experience was easy enough to navigate and divvy up – notably, finger foods – sharing dishes like gumbo, crab soup, the burger or any of the larger plates seemed too cumbersome. Other dishes were either too desirable or not desirable enough to share. The black pepper biscuit, for instance, of the Fried Chicken n’ Biscuit, was buttery and dense, but the hunk of herbal fried chicken was too drenched in a flavorful hot saucebuttermilk blanket – too chef-owner unwieldy and messy to attempt dividing. ryan lewis Excessive fat canceled whatever tender meat could be found on the short rib. Who could share that in good conscience? Chicken gumbo – in between a cup and a bowl – suffered from a strong douse of vinegar and a dominant flavor of green chili. At a $15 average, these dishes triggered the alarm of my internal price-to-quantity calculator. Add a couple cocktails, another dish or two, wine with the meal, and the tab soars quickly, making one question the financial viability of dessert.

NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

stocked bar serving cocktails that make you sit up and take notice. Like Driftwood, the menu is laid out by genre – bread, chicken, vegetables, etc. With its small print, detailed descriptions and lack of capitalization to break up all that text, it can be a confusing read. While you’re thinking through myriad options, trying to imagine what each dish looks like, order a couple finger-food items. During my visits, those included pretzel-crusted cheese curds (a signature dish carried over from Driftwood), deviled eggs and chicken “rinds.” Wait, chicken? Why not pork rinds? It is called Pig &

AT A GLANCE pig & pickle

March 2018

Pickle, after all, and they do butcher their own pork. But pork or fowl mattered not; the deep-fried, Cajun-spiced crunchy nibblies were gone in a flash, after being swiped through a sweet and sour sauce and topped with sliced jalapenos. Little things on the menu change quickly; two weeks later the skins came with a Nashville hot aioli and red pepper agrodolce. On one visit, deviled eggs – spicy with horseradish and mustard – came crowned with thin slices of pickled shrimp and microgreens for a fun riff on the classic picnic food. On another visit, the dish contained pickled egg whites, tomato jam and crispy onions. I’m still figuring out the appeal of the cheese curds,

Where 5513 Pershing Ave., St. Louis, 314.349.1697, pigandpickle eatery.com

Price and size aside, Pig & Pickle’s biggest challenge is balancing the bold flavors behind many of its creative concepts. There were chicken wings, big and juicy enough, tossed in a soy-based sauce and drizzled with chili honey for a blunt force of umami and heat that overpowered any hint of sweetness. Pungent Worcestershire butter weighed down the NOLA Charred Cauliflower, out-muscling the flavors of herbs and chili honey. Ropey, thick strands of that salty soy-based umami sauce trounced any subtlety that the lemon and basil had to contribute to an intriguing shrimp- and cabbage-stuffed squid. Not every item was as monochromatically flavored on the large menu. Everything

Don’t-Miss Dishes The menu changes frequently, but look for deviled eggs, chicken rinds and any roasted vegetable.

Vibe Cozy, dimly lit space with a welcoming vibe

came together with the rainbow carrots: Roasted to a burnished sweetness, sprinkled with smoky pepitas and served with whipped goat cheese topped with bits of honeycomb. A bit of each on the fork made for harmonious bites. Another night, it was twin green peppers stuffed with braised rabbit, rice and stewed tomatoes in a spicy harissa sauce that didn’t miss a beat. Dense chocolate cake topped with malted milk ice cream and pecan brittle received rave reviews, as did the cranberry panna cotta – its housemade cranberry jam just tart enough against the custard’s sweetness. Lewis brought on seasoned bar manager Jeffery Moll (formerly at Randolfi’s) for a cocktail menu that has strong players in the whiskey and gin categories and some fun mezcal options, including the potent mezcal Last Word (mixed with green Chartreuse, lime and maraschino liqueur). Non-imbibers aren’t limited to mere club soda and lime, as boozeless cocktails receive just as much attention as the high-octane ones. The updated space is cozy and comfortable, with burnt orange walls, dim lighting and a fireplace. Along the dining room wall, illuminated rows of jarred pickles convey both rustic and urbane notes. I have a love-hate attitude toward crowded menus that emphasize expensive, single-ingredient dishes and promote sharing. Unlike tapas – specifically designed to construct small, affordable meals – the American version seems larger than a small plate and smaller than an entree with the benefits of neither. That’s certainly the case at Pig & Pickle. With such an inviting space and some well-executed dishes, Lewis has the chops to make his new venture a contender in the competitive St. Louis market. All he has to do is slow down, hone in on a more focused menu and rein in those walloping flavors.

Entree Prices $14 to $18

When Tue. to Fri. – 4:30 to 9:30 p.m.; Sat. – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30 to 9:30 p.m.; Sun. – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

LUNCH RUSH

blk mkt eats BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

Breaking the rules can be so much fun, and BLK MKT Eats in the Central West End does so with glee. This small, fast-casual restaurant is home to sushi-inspired eats with lavish use of bright, bold flavors and unconventional ingredients. Menu items are all available as sushi burritos, bowls or salads, and some can be had as nachos. The roll is, as promised, as big as a burrito. Neatly contained by a nori wrap, it’s the ideal choice for meals on the go, but daintier eaters will be grateful for the lighter salad option. The nachos are better in concept than execution, since the delicate wonton chips are no match for the dense toppings. Got it? Let’s talk flavor options.

SWEDISH FISH

THE OG FIRE If you’re a fan of Americanized rolls like the California and its many complex offspring, you’ll love the OG Fire. It packs a lot of bold flavors into one dish, but maintains a balance. The richness of the avocado and spicy salmon or tuna is offset by crisp cucumbers and crunchy tempura crumbs. Jalapenos and a generous drizzle of house-made OG Fire sauce (a spicy mayo) bring the heat.

This dish is as refreshing as a Scandinavian freshwater spring – at least the one in my imagination. I tried this as a salad, and it ended up being my favorite item on the menu. A bed of arugula and yuzu-dill slaw is topped with glistening beet-cured salmon, cucumber, fennel, avocado and asparagus, all drizzled with a house-made Yuzu Gold sauce. Delightfully herbaceous, every bite delivers a whomp of sweet, clean dill and anise-like fennel, and the citrusy yuzu sauce adds some zing.

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paired with the oily wonton chips was excessively rich.

DOWNSIDE TASTY AS CLUCK

SHAKA POKE The rich tuna makes this flavor combination downright decadent. Cabbage and cucumber lighten it up, sesame seeds provide pops of nutty flavor, and tempura lends a crunch. A drizzle of sweet, umami unagi sauce ties it together, along with a sprinkle of alaea salt (an unrefined Hawaiian sea salt). I tried the Shaka Poke on top of nachos, but the roll or salad would be a better choice. The tuna

Southern comfort, meet Eastern umami. Like the most successful fusion cuisine, each bite hits a lot of notes – crunchy, creamy, sour, spicy – for addictive effect. Ultra-crispy buttermilk fried chicken is paired with pungent kimchi slaw, briny house-made salad pickles and shallots. The OG Fire sauce makes another appearance here, bringing that same nice heat.

The space is tiny and seats are hard to come by, so if you’re grabbing lunch during the busiest hours, you may want to take it to go. Even so, you may have to wait in line due to a combination of crowds and prep speed – BLK MKT Eats operates assembly-line style, but it’s not as fast-paced as you’d expect.

Blk mkt eats 9 S. Vandeventer Ave., St. Louis, 314.391.5100, blkmkteats.com

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reviews NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE

center ice brewery BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVE MOORE

G

OAL!” is what hockey fans most likely think when they walk into Center Ice Brewery. Finally, a craft brewery lovingly conjured for those who bleed blue. The Midtown spot embraces its hockey theme, but with enough restraint to be fun without sinking into kitsch. Decorated with Blues

O R D E R T H I S March 2018

memorabilia and Blues-themed art, along with plenty of bigscreen TVs, it’s more tasteful man cave than cheap, overstimulating sports bar. The long, attractive bar and backdrop, made with reclaimed wood from the old St. Louis Arena, lend the space an inviting warmth. No promises if you show up in a Blackhawks jersey, but

service is generally friendly and laid-back, adding to the comfortable atmosphere. On a weekend night, especially when a game’s on, the place buzzes with an enthusiastic crowd adorned in Blues gear. Classic arena tunes blare over the speakers and patrons jovially shout over the din, resulting in a cheerfully loud vibe reminiscent of an exclusive private box at a game, but with better beer. A quieter experience can be had in the back, around the brewing floor. Either way, you’ll want to take a peek – the brewing equipment is ringed by a rink wall, and there’s a penalty box in the corner perfect for selfies. Owner Steve Albers

Order a couple pours of the American Golden ale.

solid choice for those who enjoy IPAs but not blasting off their tongues with hops. Center Ice also offers two fruit-infused cream ales, the Raspberry Picker and the Blackberry Picker, both brewed with vanilla beans and lactose. In the former, fresh raspberries lend a nice acidic bite to balance out lactose creaminess, resulting in a sweet, but not sickly, option. The Blackberry Center Ice Picker, Brewery made with 3126 Olive St., blackberry St. Louis, 314.339.5733, puree, is less centericebrewery.com successful. Unlike other blackberry beers, this curiously lacks any purple coloring, and the fruit flavor is too faint to make much impact. Similarly, the seasonal Ugly Christmas has thought of every detail, Sweater Stout, brewed with including a game-day shuttle to bourbon barrel-aged maple Scottrade Center. syrup, could use some tinkering – although it certainly smells Although the beer likely won’t of smoke and caramel, those wow die-hard craft enthusiasts strong flavors don’t come (or snobs, however you want through on the palate. to look at it), there are some solid pours available among Food is not currently offered, the half-dozen or so house but patrons are welcome to beers on tap. Tasting flights bring in their own – and are available, as well as wines, Center Ice is conveniently spirits and a few guest taps. located next door to Southern and Pappy’s Smokehouse. The American Golden is an easy-drinking ale with a clean Sports fans looking for a local finish. With a touch of citrus brewery where they can kick and just enough yeast to be back with other enthusiasts and interesting, it’s a refreshing, enjoy a few beers have found crowd-pleasing option. The their spot. Not a die-hard or American IPA on tap, Hop even lukewarm sports fan? Not Shelf, is only mildly bitter – a required to enjoy Center Ice.

Everything down to the tap handles is hockey themed at Center Ice Brewery.

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dine

& drink this bold sauvignon blanc can stand up to st. patrick’s day’s rich flavors

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake There are very few wellknown Irish whiskey cocktails, but the Gloom Lifter has managed to make its mark. This recipe from the early 1900s is a variation on the tasty, gin-based Clover Club. In a shaker, combine TED AND JAMIE 2 ounces Irish whiskey, ¾ KILGORE ounce raspberry syrup, ¾ USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart ounce lemon juice and 1 and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House small egg white. Dry shake (without ice) 15 seconds, then add ice and shake an additional 30 to 40 seconds. Fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist.

March 2018

Guinness and Jameson might be your first choices, but wine can also work with corned beef and cabbage. My bottle for this year’s St. Patrick’s Day feast is Gérard Bertrand Perles GLENN BARDGETT de Sauvignon Blanc. The Member of the Missouri Wine Languedoc-Roussillon wine and Grape Board and wine has acidity to cut through director at Annie Gunn’s the fat and big enough flavors to stare down the typically wine-unfriendly cabbage. France isn’t all that far from Ireland. $17. Dierbergs, 1080 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, 314.238.0400, dierbergs.com

Break out of your St. Pat’s comfort zone with the new Left Hand Nitro Chai Milk Stout. An icon in the canned nitro craze and leading the milk stout trend, Left Hand has outdone itself by adding chai spice to its flagship for a beer that KATIE HERRERA tastes like your favorite coffee Co-founder of Femme shop’s dirty chai. Aromatics Ferment and account manager at Craft Republic of nutmeg, clove, cardamom, cinnamon and ginger highlight a palate rich with roasted malt, notes of coffee and a subtle, lactose-driven sweetness. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

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COCKTAILS

B Y

History is rife with drinks that fell by the wayside but shouldn’t have. Like the Pegu Club – a favorite cocktail of the British military officers, diplomats and expats living in Rangoon who frequented the club by the same name at the beginning of the 20th century. It was popular enough to earn a place in eminent cocktail books of the time – including “The Savoy Cocktail Book” by Harry Craddock – but was slowly forgotten after the Brits left Burma (now Myanmar). The Pegu Club is super simple, but like all the best drinks, yields a flavor far greater than the sum of its parts. A piquant combination of gin, orange curaçao, lime juice and bitters, it made the perfect refreshment to quaff in the heavy heat of a Burmese afternoon. The tart and sweet flavors marry well and take the juniper bite out of the gin. With such an approachable, well balanced profile, it’s great at any time of year. Thankfully, unlike other recipes relegated to the pages of dusty drink tomes, this one was revived during the 21st-century craft cocktail boom. It inspired bartender and entrepreneur Audrey Saunders

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C L U B S O R R E L L

when she opened her bar, Pegu Club, in Manhattan in the mid2000s, which effectively introduced it to a new generation of drinkers. I prefer a straightforward London Dry gin, like Beefeater or Broker’s, in the Pegu Club – along with Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao for subtle sweetness. I employ Reagan’s, my go-to orange bitters, in addition to Angostura. Once you taste the original, play with the ingredients to create your own take. Opt for a sweeter curaçao, try grapefruit bitters instead of orange or switch the amount to find what you like.

PEGU CLUB 1 SERVING 2 oz. London Dry gin ¾ oz. orange curaçao ¼ oz. lime juice 1 dash Angostura bitters 1 dash orange bitters Lime wheel, for garnish • In an ice-filled shaker, combine the gin, curaçao, lime juice, Angostura and orange bitters. Shake vigorously, strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with the lime wheel.

March 2018

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

P E G U


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Indian Accent Global indian Eclectic Indian Fusion Food Tales by Global Indian By Ashok Nageshwar

INDIAN ACCENT kafir lime rasam, a spicy south indian tomato soup, recipe on p. 30

traditional dishes with a modern edge B Y A S H O K N A G E S H WA R // P H O T O S B Y C A R ME N T R O E S S E R

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Kheema

P A V

curried ground meat sliders recipe on p. 30

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SAMOSADILLA 4 SERVINGS

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for frying 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger 1 Tbsp. garam masala 1 Tbsp. ground coriander 1 Tbsp. Indian chili powder 1 tsp. cumin seeds Pinch of amchur powder Pinch of fennel powder 2 cups chunky mashed potatoes (about 4 russet potatoes) 2 green chilies, chopped 1 cup peas, blanched 10 cilantro sprigs, chopped 4 12-inch flour tortillas 8 tsp. sweet chutney (or bhel chutney) 1 red onion, sliced into thin rings 6 oz. grated mozzarella • In a large pan over medium heat, saute the garlic and ginger in 2 tablespoons oil about 2 minutes. Add the garam masala, coriander, chili powder, cumin, amchur powder and fennel powder and stir until combined. Add the mashed potatoes and green chilies and stir until evenly coated with the spice mixture. Stir in the peas and cilantro and remove from heat. • To assemble a samosadilla, spread about ½ cup potato mixture on one side of a tortilla. Top with 2 teaspoons chutney, 2 onion slices and 1 ounce mozzarella cheese, and fold in half. • Preheat a griddle to medium-high heat. Oil the griddle, then cook the samosadilla 2 minutes on each side. Repeat with the remaining tortillas. Slice the finished samosadillas into wedges and serve.

KAFIR LIME RASAM 4 SERVINGS

4 tomatoes, diced 6 kafir lime leaves 2 Tbsp. rasam powder, divided 2 garlic cloves 1 Tbsp. cumin seeds 2 Tbsp. ghee, divided 1 tsp. brown mustard seeds

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3 cups water 1 Tbsp. tamarind pulp ¼ cup chopped cilantro Kosher salt, to taste • Puree the tomatoes, kafir lime leaves and 1 tablespoon rasam powder in a food processor or blender and set aside. • Using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, coarsely grind the garlic and cumin seeds and set aside. • In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, melt 1 tablespoon ghee. Add the mustard seeds and saute until they start to sputter and pop, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic mixture and the remaining 1 tablespoon rasam powder and saute 2 minutes. Add the tomato mixture and increase the heat to medium. Simmer 5 minutes, then stir in the water and tamarind pulp and simmer another 3 minutes. • Remove from heat, then stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon ghee and salt to taste. Top with cilantro and serve.

KHEEMA PAV 4 SERVINGS

1 lb. ground beef or chicken 1 onion, diced 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 Tbsp. ginger-garlic paste 1 Tbsp. garam masala 1 Tbsp. ground coriander 1 Tbsp. ground cumin 1 Tbsp. Indian chili powder 3 tomatoes, diced ¹∕³ cup chopped cilantro 1 tsp. ghee (optional) Kosher salt, to taste 8 pav buns 1 Tbsp. butter • In a large skillet over medium-high heat, brown the ground meat, stirring as little as possible to brown it completely, 7 to 10 minutes. Drain the meat, transfer to a plate and set aside. • Wipe out the skillet and return to medium-high heat. Saute the onion in the oil until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the ginger-garlic paste and saute 1 minute. Add the garam masala, coriander, cumin and chili powder, and stir to combine. Add the tomatoes and reserved meat and

mix well, making sure to break up any clumps. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes, then stir in the cilantro and ghee and remove from heat. Taste, and add salt if desired. • Cut pockets in the pav buns and fill each with about an ice cream scoop of meat mixture, about 1½ to 2 ounces. • Melt the butter in a pan over medium heat and toast the filled buns 1 minute on each side.

MASALE BHAT 4 SERVINGS

2 cups basmati rice 3 tsp. coriander seeds 2 tsp. cumin seeds 1-inch cinnamon stick 5 cloves (optional) 3 tsp. vegetable oil 1 onion, sliced 5 to 6 curry leaves 2 bay leaves 1 tsp. brown mustard seeds Pinch of hing powder 3 green chilies, chopped 2 tsp. ginger paste ½ tsp. ground turmeric 2 tsp. goda masala 2 tsp. Indian chili powder 1 russet potato, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 cup ½-inch cauliflower florets Kosher salt, to taste 3 cups vegetable stock or water ¼ cup diced fresh tomatoes 4 tsp. peanuts 1 cup peas ½ cup fresh grated coconut, for garnish Cilantro leaves, for garnish • Rinse the rice, then soak 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. • In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, cinnamon stick and cloves until fragrant and beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool, then coarsely grind with a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, and set aside. • In a large, high-sided skillet over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Add the onions, curry leaves, bay leaves, mustard seeds and hing, and saute until the onions turn golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the green chilies, ginger paste and turmeric,

and saute 1 minute. Add the goda masala and chili powder, and saute 2 mintues. • Add the potato, cauliflower, a pinch of salt and ½ cup water, cover and cook 5 minutes. • Stir in the reserved rice, then add the stock, tomatoes, peanuts and more salt to taste. Increase the heat to high, cover and cook 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and cook 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and cook 15 minutes, then remove from heat and let rest 10 minutes. • Place the peas in a small, microwavesafe bowl and microwave 1 minute. • Stir the peas into the rice mixture, garnish with coconut and cilantro and serve.

CHILI-LIME CAULIFLOWER 4 SERVINGS

1 head cauliflower 1 cup olive oil, divided 2 Tbsp. lime juice, divided 1 Tbsp. chopped parsley 1 Tbsp. ginger-garlic paste 1 Tbsp. Indian chili powder 2 tsp. chopped cilantro, divided Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 cup hung curd or Greek yogurt 1 small garlic clove, minced Special equipment: 4 bamboo skewers • Cut the cauliflower into medium florets. Fill a large bowl with hot, salted water and soak the florets 30 minutes. • In a large bowl, whisk together ½ cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon lime juice, the parsley, ginger-garlic paste, chili powder, 1 teaspoon cilantro, salt and pepper. Add the cauliflower and toss. Let marinate 10 minutes. • In a medium bowl, whisk together the hung curd, the remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice, the remaining 1 teaspoon cilantro, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste until thoroughly combined, about 2 minutes. • Place the florets on the skewers. • On a grill pan over medium-high heat, grill the skewers until charred, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Serve with the garlic dip.

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chili-lime

C A U L I F L O W E R recipe on p. 30

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THE INDIAN PANTRY

bitter and fetid until cooked. Then it transforms into an umami enhancer critical for Indian cuisine, with a very smooth flavor similar to leeks.

Indian Green Chili

Indian green chilies are a little longer and skinnier than serranos but have a similar spice level. They can be deseeded before use to cut down on heat.

Amchur Powder (Dry Mango Powder)

This is a tart and fruity spice powder made from dried unripe green mangoes. It adds a citrusy-sour note, which helps to highlight all the other spices in the food much like lemon or salt.

masale

B H A T a maharashtrian-style vegetarian rice pilaf recipe on p. 30

Indian Red Chili Powder and Kashmiri Chili Powder

Standard Indian chili powder has a similar heat level to cayenne pepper, while Kashmiri is made with milder chilies and colors dishes in vibrant red like paprika.

Brown/Black Mustard Seeds

Sisters to the more familiar yellow mustard, brown and black seeds pack a little more punch. To unleash their full, nose-tingling, spicy flavor, the seeds are usually fried until they pop like popcorn before adding them to dishes in Indian cuisine.

Pav Bread Roll

Pav are fluffy Indian dinner rolls, like ones you’d use to make sliders.

Rasam Powder

Basic rasam powder is made with lentils, pepper, coriander, cumin, red chilies and hing (asafoetida). It adds complex heat and acidity to the lentilbased tomato soup called rasam, and acts as a thickening agent. I prefer the MTR brand.

Cardamom (Elaichi Powder)

A very intense and aromatic spice with earthy, floral sweetness, cardamom helps to balance heat. You need very little to flavor a dish, whether using whole pods or ground seeds.

Coriander (Dhania Powder)

Sweet Tamarind Chutney

The dried seed of a cilantro plant, coriander is used frequently in Indian cuisine. Whole or ground, it has a floral, exotic taste with a touch of citrus. It’s a natural partner to cumin.

Sweet but tart, and sometimes very sour, tamarind is potent. While tamarind pulp can be eaten alone, it is most often mixed with sugar and/or diluted to mellow its strong flavor. This chutney can be used as a dipping sauce for many salty and spicy snacks.

Cumin (Jeera Powder)

Cumin can be used ground or as whole seeds. It adds earthiness and warmth to dishes without delivering heat, making it a staple in stews, soups and spiced gravies.

Turmeric

One of the key ingredients in many Indian dishes, turmeric is a natural food dye that turns everything it touches a sunny gold. It imparts a mustard-like, earthy aroma and a pungent, slightly bitter flavor.

Goda Masala

A special blend from the Indian state of Maharashtra, goda masala contains two unusual spices: rock flower and cassia buds, along with cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf, white sesame seeds, coriander seeds, coconut flakes and white and black peppercorns. Everything is dry roasted and ground, imparting a complex, pungent and unique flavor.

Hing (Asafoetida Powder)

Where to stock your Indian pantry Seema Enterprises 14238 Manchester Road, Manchester, 636.391.5914; 10635 Page Ave., St. Louis, 314.423.9990, Facebook: Seema at Page Ave.

This super savory spice is meant to be used in small quantities. Made from dried and powdered tree resin, it smells March 2018

Bombay Bazaar 1761 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.778.2391, bbazarstl.com

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S A M O S A D I L L A a quesadilla with samosa filling recipe on p. 30

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aloo kurkure balls, mashed potato fritters, with curry dipping sauce

ALOO KURKURE BALLS 16 BALLS

1 1-lb. bag tortilla chips, crushed, divided 1 slice white bread, ripped into small pieces 1 cup finely chopped cilantro 1 cup mashed potatoes ½ cup grated carrot 4 green chilies, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Pinch of amchur powder (optional) 1 cup cornstarch 1 cup water 1 cup vegetable oil Curry sauce for serving (recipe follows) • In a large bowl, combine half the crushed tortilla chips, the bread, cilantro, mashed potatoes, carrot, chilies, salt, pepper and amchur powder. Mix evenly, then form into 1½-ounce balls. • In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and water to make a slurry. In another medium bowl, place March 2018

the remaining crushed tortilla chips. • Dunk the balls in the slurry, then roll them in the crushed tortilla chips to coat. • In a deep pan over medium-high heat, heat the oil to about 350 degrees. Fry the balls in batches so they’re not too crowded, gently turning them a couple times until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. • Serve the balls with the curry sauce for dipping.

CURRY DIPPING SAUCE ½ cup chopped onion 1 tsp. vegetable oil Kosher salt, to taste 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 green chilies, chopped 1 tsp. Indian chili powder 1 tsp. chopped cilantro ½ Tbsp. chopped curry leaves ½ tsp. turmeric Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 cup water ½ cup diced fresh tomatoes

• In a large pan over mediumhigh heat, saute the onion in the vegetable oil with salt until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and chilies and saute 1 minute. Stir in the chili powder, cilantro, curry leaves, turmeric and black pepper. Add the water and tomatoes and simmer about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest about 15 minutes before serving with aloo kurkure balls.

PISTA KULFI WITH PISTACHOIS

• Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Whisk gently until combined. • Pour the mixture into molds. Freeze overnight. • When ready to serve, remove the molds from the freezer and run under warm water. Remove the kulfi from molds, sprinkle with ground pistachios and serve.

6 SERVINGS

1 8-oz. can evaporated milk 1 8-oz. can sweetened condensed milk 1 cup Cool Whip 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 oz. coarse ground pistachios, plus more for garnish Pinch of ground cardamom Special equipment: kulfi or popsicle molds

Ashok Nageshwar is chef-owner of Food Raconteur, a catering company in Creve Coeur. He leads a hand-on cooking class, Ancient India with a Modern Twist, on March 17 at Kitchen Conservatory. Details and registration online at kitchenconservatory.com.

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G O W I T H T H E G R A I N The St. Louis region has so much local talent churning out hand-crafted kitchen and home goods, there is zero reason to shop at a big-box store these days. Woodcraft is especially prolific, and the benefits of wood for kitchen and table are many: It doesn’t scratch nonstick surfaces, is kinder to knives and patinates beautifully with use and age. There’s no guarantee handmade items will always be in stock, but they’re worth the wait. Here are some of our favorites from local makers. BY MAGGIE PEARSON // PHOTOS BY JULIA CALLEO

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1. Collin Garrity Tiny Bowl and Stacking Bowls

5. Reclaim Renew Lazy Susan and Tray

Tiny bowl: $12. Stacking bowls: $15 and up. Urban Matter, 4704 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.456.6941, urbanmatterstl.com; collingarrity.com

18-inch Lazy Susan: $70. Tray: $70. Reclaim Renew, 2145 Barrett Station Road, Des Peres, 314.540.9958, reclaimrenew.com

2. Newberry Furniture Illinois or MissouriShaped Cheese Board $20. Serendipity Gifts, 701 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.757.3736, serendipity-gifts.net

3. Matt Keim Chechen Burl Bowl

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6. David Stine Furniture Live Edge Slab Table Price available upon request. 618.946.1413, stinewoodworking.com

Facture Goods Ebonized Brass and Wood Measuring Spoons $150. facturegoods.com

$110. Craft Alliance, 6640 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.1177, craftalliance.org

Lehmann Goods Traditional Serving Spoon Pair

4. Goebel & Co. Furniture Cutting Boards

Newberry Furniture Pizza Peel

$20 to $120. Goebel & Co. Furniture, 7401 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.807.1745, goebelfurniture.com

$52. newberryfurniture.com

$40. lehmanngoods.com

Mwanzi Wu Dining Table Price available upon request. 314.200.4123, mwanzi.com

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stuff to do:

MARCH

BY ANDIE DIVELBISS AND LAURA KERN

Goulash Versus Gumbo Festival

The Boozy Bee

March 3 – 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., American Czech Educational Center, 4690 Lansdowne Ave., St. Louis, 314.752.8168, acecstl.org Determine your favorite at this cultural showdown between goulash and gumbo. Sample three different styles of each, along with mini sandwiches like a muffuletta and a chlebicky and desserts like Czech listy and French crepes while enjoying live music. Czech beer, spirits and themed cocktails are available for purchase. Tickets available online and at the door.

March 11 – 5 to 11 p.m., Lemmons by Grbic, 5800 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, stlwinegirl.com Can you spell “fun?” Blogger and entrepreneur STL Wine Girl (aka Angela Ortmann) celebrates her business’ 10th anniversary with a boozy spelling bee. Contestants spell food- and beverage-themed words for a chance at prizes and free drinks. Attendees can stick to spectating or try other games while they sample the Lemmons menu. Nudo House chef Wil Pelly serves as emcee. Register online for general admission or to compete.

Pastaria’s Crossover Pizza Takeover March 7 – 5 to 10 p.m., Pastaria, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, eatpastaria.com Owner Gerard Craft welcomes Nashville chef Andy Little of Josephine to take over the Pastaria kitchen and add a Tennessee accent to the Italian menu. Try dishes like a Nashville hot scrapple salad with pickle vinaigrette, a pizza topped with beef tongue, caramelized onion and horseradish or another pie with grilled mushrooms, fennel, orange and ricotta. Little even offers gelato flavors like cream cheese with sticky bun bits.

sponsored events

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Grow Native! Workshop March 16 – 7:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Lewis and Clark Community College, 5800 Godfrey Road, Godfrey, Illinois, 888.843.6739, grownative. org/events Aspiring and experienced gardeners alike can head to Lewis and Clark Community College for an educational morning with experts on native landscaping for pollinators and sustainability. Enjoy a breakfast buffet while learning from professionals like Eleanor Schumacher, who speaks about cultivating backyard food webs of edible and medicinal plants. Tickets available online.

National Macaron Day 2018 March 17 – 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., La Patisserie Chouquette, 1626 Tower Grove Ave, St. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com Satisfy your sweet tooth in style by celebrating National Macaron Day at La Patisserie Chouquette. The normal macaron menu expands to more than 30 flavors, including classics like lavender honey and chocolatecovered strawberry, as well as unique ones like mango chili lime and Fruity Pebbles. The event goes until close or the macarons sell out, so get there early to take home your favorites.

iTap Beer School March 21 – 7 to 9 p.m., International Tap House Central West End, 16 S. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.4827, internationaltaphouse.com/events Go back to school at a beer bar in the Central West End. International Tap House invites beer experts to discuss styles and breweries each month. This session features a representative from Ballast Point, who discusses the brewery’s history and portfolio. Enjoy four 5-ounce samples, each paired with a small dish. Tickets available at iTap.

Craft Alliance MakersBall

Spirited Sessions: Fermented

March 10 – 6 to 11 p.m., The Caramel Room, 1600 N. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.725.1177, craftalliance.org/makersball Celebrate local artists at Craft Alliance’s annual event featuring live artist demonstrations, auctions, music, dinner and Crafted Confections, an after-hours dessert party featuring beer and spirits from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., Pinckney Bend Distillery and Big O Ginger Liqueur and sweets from Bissinger’s executive chef Nick Miller. Tickets and sponsorships available online.

March 12 – 7 to 9 p.m., Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, stlbarkeep.com Brush up on your beer knowledge at the next Spirited Sessions. STL Barkeep owner Matt Longueville starts the night with a beer cocktail. Then, STL Barkeep director of beer Katie Herrera guides attendees through a tasting of Irish beers. Tickets available online.

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WHAT I DO

Brian Ivers Brian Ivers takes chances. He quit his engineering job to hike the Appalachian Trail, despite having almost no long-distance hiking experience. On the advice of a taproom bartender, he quit that same engineering job (again) to take a Goose Island brewing internship. A few years later, he was the first brewer his brotherin-law Cory King hired to work alongside him at Side Project Brewing in Maplewood. Oh, and that Goose Island bartender? She’s now his wife, Erica Ivers. Here, the engineer-turned-brewer talks about his college days, traveling the country on foot and his dream of opening a brewery in the middle of nowhere. – Catherine Klene

“ I wa s d r i n k i n g S h i n e r B o c k a n d A m b e r B o c k [in college], and I thought I was pretty cool. I considered that I had a sophisticated palate because I chose Shiner over whatever [was] the lightest thing you could get. But then I found out about various styles of beer, and I thought, ‘Well, these all have to be investigated.’” “ I t ’ s a f a m i l i a r s t o r y. You suddenly get obsessed with something else. But I’d spent all this time and money going to engineering school,

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so I was like, I might as well give that a go. I just did homebrewing for quite a while. I spent gobs of my student loan money on homebrewing equipment.”

said this should be my trail name. … I kept one of the cans, and I hiked it all the way from Georgia to Maine – almost 2,200 miles.”

“We brewed a nut b r o w n a l e , and I still have the bottle of the first one we ever capped. It was good. Of course, we thought it was good back then, but that was the big epiphany. … That night we got drunk drinking our own beer just to make sure there was alcohol in it.”

“ B a s e w e i g h t wa s b a s e d on one of my old h o m e b r e w r e c i p e s . … Right before I left for the AT, I left it in a fermenter. When I got back from the AT, that beer had soured. … Cory and I put fruit in it and added some bacteria and made it a sour. Later, that sour version of Baseweight became Trail Porter, which was brewed as a Side Project beer.”

“ E v e ry b o dy o n t h e A p pa l ac h i a n T r a i l o r a n y l o n g - d i s ta n c e trail gets a trail name. Usually they get assigned to you throughout your first month on the trail. … Most of the time, they’re unflattering. I was eager to have a flattering trail name bestowed upon me, so the first night, I’m drinking this [Oskar Blues] Ten Fidy on the trail, and me or [my friend] Stephen

“ W h e n yo u ’ r e o u t h i k i n g , y o u d o n ’ t h av e [ c r e at u r e c o m f o r t s ] , and therefore when you get into town, all the sudden, beer tastes the best it’s ever going to taste. Suddenly being in a no-name bar in a tiny little town in the middle of nowhere, bellying up to

that bar and having a beer is one of the greatest experiences ever.” “ E r i c a a n d I d ay d r e a m o f ta k i n g o u r k i d s o n t h e A p pa l ac h i a n T r a i l o n e d ay. … We ran into a couple on the [Pacific Crest Trail]. They were hiking with their 12- and 10-year-old kids, and they did the whole trail. We were inspired by that. We were like, ‘You know what? If we have kids, maybe that’s not the end of the world after all.’” “ W h at m y w i f e a n d I e n v i s i o n n ow i s a h i k e r hostel-brewery kind o f p l a c e in the middle of nowhere, maybe along the Continental Divide Trail. [Hikers are] fun people and honest people, and we think it’d be pretty cool to cater to them in the summertime. Then maybe in the wintertime, we’d be in the mountains, so we’d cater to ski bums. … That’s the scheme at this point.” March 2018

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

“ E v e r s i n c e I wa s a k i d , I a lway s wa n t e d t o b e an electrical engineer. That was my main focus, so as an extension, all science and engineering always interested me. … I heard at one point that farmers make wine and engineers make beer. Maybe the people who make wine object to that, but as a brewer, that rings true to me.”

Side Project Brewing, 1458 Manchester Road, Maplewood, sideprojectbrewing.com


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rebecca schranz, brewer-co-owner at earthbound beer, p. 23

ST. ST. LOUIS’ LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT INDEPENDENT CULINARY CULINARYAUTHORITY AUTHORITY

Guide to Beer 2018

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

FREE, GUIDE TO BEER 2018

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PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

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Yes, We Can

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

Craft has been going into cans for years, but the trend is still picking up speed. Breweries like Civil Life Brewing, which was draftonly forever, finally started canning. Local favorites like Schlafly are offering more and more of their portfolios with tabs (White Lager, anyone?), and even breweries known for large-format bottles (we see you, Perennial Artisan Ales) are moving to aluminum. – Heather Hughes

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PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

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Sweet Spot B Y K AT I E H E R R E R A

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

Currently baking up in the trend-driven beer world are pastry stouts – deliciously rich and cloyingly sweet beers meant to resemble desserts and breakfast foods. The base beer is usually a massively boozy, fullbodied stout that can withstand the numerous ingredients added to build a dessert-y flavor profile. Sometimes dessert is more than inspiration – as with the Evil Twin Imperial Doughnut Break, which is actually brewed with doughnuts. Beer nerds debate whether the sweet style is “ruining beer,” but a lot of winter seasonals have sold out at local retailers until next year. Some people just prefer to drink their dessert … or breakfast. No judgment.

OMNIPOLLO NOA PECAN MUD CAKE This luxurious beer is the amalgamation of a rich, fudgy brownie, toasted pecans and s’mores. Thick and chewy in texture, a massive chocolate overtone is enhanced by underlying notes of graham cracker, lightly toasted marshmallow and nuts.

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EVIL TWIN IMPERIAL BISCOTTI BREAK Loads of almond and coffee on the nose introduce the essence of sweet cookie and notes of heavily roasted malt across the palate. One sip of this beer, and you’ll think you’re dipping a piece of biscotti in a hot cup of joe mixed with vanillaflavored creamer. Four-pack: $13. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com

SOUTHERN TIER CRÈME BRÛLÉE IMPERIAL MILK STOUT One of the first massively rich, dessert-like beers to make an appearance, Crème Brûlée remains a fan favorite. Just as the name suggests, this silky and rich sugar bomb is all vanilla and caramel up front, followed by notes of lightly toasted sugar and custard.

SAUGATUCK NEAPOLITAN MILK STOUT Don’t miss this beer if you’re a fan of the ice cream. Lighter bodied than most, a touch of toasted malt and a lot of strawberry on the nose are followed by the flagship vanilla, strawberry and milk chocolate flavors on the palate. $2.50. BeerSauce Shop, 318D Mid Rivers Mall Drive, St. Peters, 636.328.7972, beersauceshop.com Guide to Beer 2018


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It actually tastes like beer. Even the light-bodied wheat has more going on than your typical metallic, NA water-lager.

counting, you don’t have to go out of your way to find WellBeing.

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Cutting-edge cred – the low-ABV trend is still alive and well, but there’s only one other NA-specific brewery in the US.

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If you want an NA option, it may as well be from a St. Louis small business.

What hangover?

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German athletes swear by NA beer over Gatorade for their sports drinking; it was downed liberally at the Winter Olympics. Regardless, with calorie counts around 75, the beers are worth a try for the fitness set.

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The craft brewery is busy developing a range of different styles, starting with a citrus wheat and coffee stout. Soon, it may have an alcohol-free option for all tastes.

Spring is sprung again with highly anticipated new releases and well-known favorites in new packaging. Look for this beautiful bouquet of brews starting now. – Katie Herrera

Firestone Walker Lager A difficult style to perfect, this Helles-style lager is impeccable in true Firestone Walker form. The new release is crushable, crisp, smooth and will be your best friend regardless of the season.

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Widely available in bottles and kegs at 30-plus area spots and

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Logboat Flybye A classic style by a classic Columbia, Missouri brewery, this farmhouse ale is being released for spring instead of summer. It’s grainy and slightly fruity, finishes dry and is just funky enough to give you all those barnyard feels.

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Shared Shaeson Following J Dub Fan Club, this beauty is the second in the Side Project employee collaboration series. Funky and delicate, the saison/gose hybrid will showcase lavender, sea salt and lemon.

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Third Wheel Parenthetical (Port)er This port barrel-aged beer is being released in honor of St. Charles Craft Beer Week. Third Wheel fancied up its Robust Porter in an Augusta Winery barrel to enhance the richness of its characteristic chocolate malt.

Ballast Point Discovery Mix Pack All hail the trending mix pack, because who doesn’t like a little variety? Grab this Ballast Point 12-pack mix of flagship canned beers, which includes Fathom IPA, Bonito Blonde and one of three seasonal offerings. First up, Tart Peach Kölsch.

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WELLBEING PHOTOS BY LOU BOPP

Perennial Saison de Lis This core Perennial beer screams spring with a light body and assertive yeast presence, both highlighted by the tea-like character that steeped chamomile flowers provide. Rejoice, as this little gem sees the canning line for the first time ever.

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DD duty just got a little less painful.

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10 REASONS TO TRY

If you’re pregnant, don’t drink or are even just a lightweight, explaining why you’re not drinking all the time gets old.

Guilt- (and nap-) free day drinking

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WellBeing Brewing Co. debuted last year with its Heavenly Body NA Golden Wheat, followed quickly by the Hellraiser NA Dark Amber. The nonalcoholic brews caught the imagination of craft imbibers after a sober good time. Here are 10 reasons not to roll your eyes at WellBeing’s buzz-free beer. – Matt Sorrell

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The Sour Spectrum

kinda sour

1. Jester King Brewery Le Petit Prince This stainless-steel fermented table beer is made with house cultures that create an incredibly soft and funky palate with subtle tartness.

By Katie Herrera Sour beer can be polarizing, but as the trend continues to infiltrate the beer world, tart brews have become more mainstream and approachable than ever. Similar to how yogurt gets its tangy flavor, beer is soured through the fermentation of good bacteria, Lactobacillus and Pediococcus, which produce lactic acid and that puckering flavor profile. It is also common for brewers to skip a step and add lactic acid directly. Some classic styles, like Flemish reds and brown ales, are soured by acetic acid instead, which produces a more vinegary profile. With such different brew methods, styles and profiles, there are countless, diverse sour beers to try. From refreshingly piquant to ferociously acerbic, don’t write off the style until you’ve tasted the spectrum.

Most beers not sold exclusively at their breweries are available at The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com.

Your BFF Brett

2. Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project Vieille Also made with brewery-specific bugs, this saison carries notes of citrus and an herbaceous funk held together by crisp tartness.

3. Professor Fritz Briem 1809 Berliner Style Weisse Fluffy, light-bodied and effervescent, 1809 is a clean, soured wheat bright with citrus and bready aromatics.

getting sourer

6. Crane Brewing Orange Gose High carbonation enhances the assertive acidity, salt and orange zest that dance across the palate, ending with a bright and clean finish.

5. Bruery Terreux Hottenroth Berliner Weisse This Berliner-style wheat is soft and clean with notes of yogurt, lemon and grain.

4. Ritterguts Gose A classic gose, Ritterguts is a light-bodied, crisp and salty, tongue-prickling tart wheat beer highlighted by herbaceous coriander.

sour city

7. White Rooster Farmhouse Brewery Push Pull This oaky, red wine barrel-fermented table farmhouse ale is a touch tannic, soured with house bugs that drive notes of funk, citrus and stone fruit.

8. Perennial Artisan Ales Funky Wit A foeder-aged, Belgian-inspired wheat, Funky Wit showcases a house culture funk that produces SweeTart-y fruitiness and delicate undertones of black peppercorn, coriander and dried orange peel.

9. Side Project Brewing Saison du Fermier The citrus, barnyard funk, creamy acidity and tangy finish of this classic saison are characteristic of Side Project’s bugs and barrels.

we need water

12. New Belgium Brewing Company La Folie This oak-aged, medium-bodied brown ale provides a punch of sour up front while finishing with flavors of succulent fruit and

11. Brouwerij Verhaeghe Duchesse de Bourgogne This blended, barrel-aged beer showcases the characteristic juicy, sweet malt bill and bright acidity of a Flanders red. Driving acetic flavors are reminiscent of grapes and fine balsamic vinegar.

10. Gueuzerie Tilquin Oude Gueuze à l’Ancienne Aromatics of funky cheese and stale hops drive the flavor profile of this traditional blended lambic. It finishes with balanced acidity and notes of green apple, citrus zest and wet hay.

really, really sour!

Sour character predominantly comes from lactic or acetic acid, but brewers can further a beer’s depth and complexity by pairing these souring agents with funkifying yeast strains known as Brettanomyces, or Brett for short. The aromas and flavors produced by Brett – rather than the various traditional, clean brewers yeast strains collectively called Saccharomyces – can be described as funky, 14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

barnyard-y, ripe tropical fruit-like or reminiscent of wet sock and horse blanket. (In a good way, we swear.) With so much to regulate, mixed-culture brewing (using Brett and souring bacteria jointly) isn’t easy. But some brewers are taking the difficult beers to a whole new level by developing house bugs. Like terroir in wine, these carefully propagated collections of unique yeast and bacteria produce character in beer that parallels its environment for totally distinctive products that combine the funkiness of Brett and the

sourness of bacteria. Some hometown favorites – like 2nd Shift Brewing, Perennial Artisan Ales, Side Project Brewing and White Rooster Farmhouse Brewery – have gone to great lengths to develop and understand the microorganisms that make up their house cultures, earning a place at the sour frontier. They join the ranks of national and international breweries such as Crooked Stave, Jester King, New Belgium, Gueuzerie Tilquin and Brouwerij Verhaeghe in pushing the boundaries of tart and funk in beer. Guide to Beer 2018


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NOT JUST HERE FOR THE BEER

REUBEN AT HEAVY RIFF BREWING CO.

PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

We know they make great beer, but area breweries have stepped up their gastronomic game, too. Some, like Schlafly and Civil Life Brewing Co., hire in-house talent; others partner with established concepts, as 2nd Shift Brewing did with Guerrilla Street Food. Still other breweries and chefs aim for something exciting and new (we’re looking you, Rockwell Beer Co. and Niche Food Group). Whether you’re hunting for tasty vegetarian ’cue or classic German fare to accompany that Pilsner, these six area breweries offer so much more than great beer.

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HEAV Y RIFF BREWING CO. HEAVY RIFF BREWING CO.

Some of St. Louis’ best vegetarian barbecue is found at a rock-n-roll Dogtown brewery. Heavy Riff’s seitan actually spends significant time in the smoker and doesn’t require a deluge of sauce to make it enjoyable. Before you roll your eyes and jump to the next brewery on this list, pause and pay respect to Heavy Riff’s monster Reuben. This mountain of house-cured and smoked brisket, gooey cheese, kraut and smoked Thousand Island dressing is a force to be reckoned with. And everyone can agree to break Heavy Riff’s spent-grain beer bread; slather each dense slice with green onion cream cheese or orange-tinged butter. 6413 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, heavyriffbrewing.com

PERENNIAL ARTISAN ALES Chef Kaleigh Brundick works wonders with a hot plate and panini press. Perennial’s menu changes weekly, but the humble grilled cheese with thick slabs of fontina, Prairie Breeze and a rotating jam (right now, it’s onion-thyme) is a constant that satisfies our inner child and our indulgent adult. (Pro tip: Accompany each bite with a Kicker Billy Goat chip for the perfect spicy/ gooey/salty combo.) There’s always a locally sourced seasonal salad or tartine, each thoughtfully composed with pickled/shaved/raw/roasted elements that elevate this brewery fare to so much more than utilitarian snacks for continued drinking. 8125 Michigan Ave., St. Louis, 314.631.7300, perennialbeer.com Guide to Beer 2018

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URBAN CHESTNUT BREWERY AND BIERHALL POMMES FRITES AT URBAN CHESTNUT BREWERY AND BIERHALL

On any given night, the long wood tables at Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s massive Bierhall are laden with pints and trays of schnitzel, sausages and paper bags of pomme frites. We’ve said it before, but it bears repeating: Eat. These. Fries. Order a large – for yourself – with garlic mayo and fry sauce, and live your best life. UCBC chef Andy Fair has a knack for making heavy German dishes seem lighter than they are, like the ethereal salt cod brandade beignets with house tartar sauce and puffy cinnamon-sugar churros (a decidedly not German dessert) with warm chocolate sauce. 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com

The quirky Earthbound crew has always championed Cherokee Street, so naturally they partnered with neighbor Vista Ramen to helm the brewery’s food program. Mothership is the meal you’d eat if Vista chefs Chris Bork and Josh Adams invited you to a backyard barbecue in North Carolina. Ascend to the floating mezzanine with a mushroom-y veggie burger (doctored with house Carolina mustard sauce and extra pickles, per Adams’ advice), all the sides and cornbread so good, you’d swear they stole the recipe from someone’s unsuspecting southern granny, if not for the gochugang-honey butter on the side. 2724 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.769.9576, mothershipsaintlouis.com

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PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

EARTHBOUND BEER


MEATBALLS AT CUGINO’S

NARROW GAUGE BREWING CO. Yes, dear reader, we know this ItalianAmerican eatery was around long before Narrow Gauge co-owner Jeff Hardesty brewed in the basement, but Cugino’s has become the de facto tasting room for Hardesty’s stellar Northeast IPAs. Cugino’s unpretentious meaty, cheesy menu hits the spot after a drink or two. Exhibit A: Softball-sized meatballs, stuffed with a glob of Provel, then breaded and deep fried like a carnivore’s arancini. Crack them open and watch the cheese lava ooze. Exhibit B: The Luigi burger, the simplest on the menu, still weighs in at a whopping half-pound and is smothered with bacon and four cheeses. It’s not healthy, it’s not dietfriendly – and we’re so happy. 1595 U.S. Highway 67, Florissant, 314.831.3222, dinecuginos.com

PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

4 HANDS BREWING CO. James Beard Award-winner Kevin Nashan and sous chef John Messbarger bring a taste of Peacemaker Lobster and Crab Co. to 4 Hands, right down to the brisket po’boy and seasoned potato chips. The chopped salad lulls you into a false sense of health; surely the mountain of romaine and tomatoes (covered in ranch, bacon, egg and avocado) means you deserve another beer. We opt to split platters of meaty peel-and-eat Gulf shrimp with house cocktail sauce. Just wash your hands before you faceoff on “Tapper” – no one likes a shellfish-scented joystick.

CHOPPED SALAD A ND P E E L-A ND - E AT SHRIMP AT 4 HANDS BREWING CO.

1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com Guide to Beer 2018

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the beer education of rebecca

schranz

HOW THIS EARTHBOUND CO-OWNER LEARNED TO BREW (AND LIKE) BEER by KEVIN KORINEK \\ photos by VIRGINIA HAROLD

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our years a go, Rebecca Schranz didn’t really like beer. She was a wine drinker, an introverted former anthropology/psychology major thinking about going to grad school. Now, she’s co-owner and brewer at Earthbound Beer. Learning how to brew (and like) beer made Schranz a stronger person – literally. “I put on 20 pounds of muscle and can actually lift things above my head now,” she laughed. And it’s stretched more than her fitness level, since she’s now one of the faces of her trendy brand. Earthbound is riding a popularity wave after recently opening an expanded space on Cherokee Street. In a town used to catering to craft beer enthusiasts, it’s a different experience altogether. For one thing, aside from the floating mezzanine suspended by chains from the ceiling, the small-batch beer list changes weekly – new beers are added all the time; some beers are never made again. Some classic styles are served alongside eccentric and surprising brews. The beer is so good it won Earthbound RateBeer’s 2016 award for best new brewery in Missouri when the tasting room was still the size of a large closet. Sidle up to the bar and sample a rosemary-juniper pale ale or a Chinese five-spice porter – flavors you won’t experience anywhere else in the city. That kind of variation is good currency in a market where peak craft beer is

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eminent, and Schranz and her coworkers excel at brewing it. To get to Earthbound’s tanks, you have to sneak through its cramped kitchen just behind the bar. A framed LP of Midnight Marauders hangs on white subway tiles where chef Josh Adams and chef-owner Chris Bork cook up Earthbound’s out-of-this-world food program, Mothership. Go through the back door into the brewhouse and hang a left to descend a short set of stairs to the unrailed landing that serves as an office. Descend another staircase, and you’re below street level, in the unfinished basement where the rest of the brewing equipment is situated.

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efore they could bring in their two (1½-barrel and 7-barrel) brewing systems, Schranz and Earthbound’s other co-owners, Stuart Keating, Jeff Siddons and Robin Johnson, had to renovate the whole 168-year-old building that once housed Cherokee Brewery. “We all got really good with power tools,” Schranz said. They installed a walk-in cooler and built the bar and tables upstairs, while clearing out a space for the massive tanks downstairs. The team also dug out Cherokee Brewery’s century-old barrel vault. Pass the tanks and look right as you go downstairs to see a doorshaped hole in the thick stone wall. Step through it and even farther underground to feel like you’ve gone back in time. The

cave of ancient-seeming arches over a dirt floor, dimly lit by hanging string lights, may leave you gaping like a fool, but for Schranz it’s just the place where she works – a little fortress of solitude from the outside world. Brewing can be a lonely act, and she relishes the seclusion. I told her about my day job as a librarian and she perked up. “You actually have a job that I wish I had in another life,” she said. Schranz was considering library science programs when she entered the male-dominated, extroverted world of craft beer. “I’m very much a solitary creature. I like drinking wine and reading books and hanging out by myself, probably more than anything,” she laughed. Her love of anthropological theory and cognitive psychology is a good personality indicator. Schranz is always asking questions and trying to understand how something works, which requires a lot of silence and time for reading and introspection – a challenge now that her dark brown bangs hang behind a bar as often as a book. Running a brewery requires hobnobbing with the beer-loving masses, but it’s her attention to detail that has made Schranz one of the best and more adventurous brewers in the city. Consider her and Keating’s Thai basil IPA, their refreshing and spicy cucumber-chili pequin Kölsch, or the recurring

Guide to Beer 2018


U n l i k e a l o t o f b u r l y, b e a r d e d p e o p l e i n t h e i n d u s t r y, b e e r i s n ’ t S c h r a n z ’ s l i f e l o n g p a s s i o n ; but it has become her calling card and allo wed h e r t o p u rs u e h e r t r u e p a s s i o n : l e a r n i n g. cardamom-pepper tea blonde, which is like spring in a glass. “I think the beer recipes that Stuart and I write are definitely more on the anthropology side, because we do use a lot of herbs and spices in our beers,” Schranz said. “We’re always reading what past cultures used. We use yarrow a lot, which is traditionally used for medicinal purposes. But then we find stuff we want to use and we realize it’s poisonous, so you have to read about these things.”

Trying her beer and watching her tend bar for an afternoon brewery crowd, it’s crazy to think that this keenly observant woman with a dry sense of humor and bandshirt style never really wanted to be a brewer. She is clearly made for this type of work. “I’m really the weirdest anomaly in terms of brewing,” she admitted.

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chranz is still a wine person. “Some people really love beer, but I never walked into this business loving beer,” she said. “I

found an appreciation for beer; I understand what certain styles are supposed to taste like. But when I go home at the end of the day, I just want to open a wine – I think that’s reflective of letting go of Earthbound when I’m at home.” Being different has its advantages. Schranz credits her outside, analytical perspective for her unique voice in the brewing world. Her appreciation for the job is a force she can quantify by how much she has learned as a brewer.

“I appreciate the history more than drinking the beer sometimes, knowing the story of how this beer came to exist,” she said. “Beer styles aren’t just a random chemistry experiment gone awry. Every beer style has a history behind it and why it exists, and in many ways that’s just cooler to me.” Her story doesn’t dovetail with the mold of a traditional brewer, and yet here she is: a welcome and anomalous force in the St. Louis brewing scene, where there are only about five female brewers.

brewer and coowner rebecca schranz working at earthbound beer

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Compared to other cities, that’s actually a pretty good number, but being a female brewer can still bring a lot of uncomfortable attention on its own. “Sometimes it feels easy to say I feel a certain way because I’m a woman, but maybe I feel this way because I’m an anthropologist or maybe I feel this way because I’m a psychologist. That’s sort of the issue I’m having with this whole ‘What-does-it-feel-like-to-be-a-femalebrewer?’ situation,” she explained. “I think it’s a really important question to ask because there just aren’t enough of us, but it also feels sort of small to assume my perspective is different from a male’s because I have a vagina. And it feels like that is the summary out there right now, both local and nationally. At the end of the day, making beer is a team effort.”

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he considers expanding that team a part of her mission as a brewer – attracting more women and people of color into the field. “It would be cool if there were more women in production. Front of house is where people expect to find them,” she said. “But all the women behind the bar at Side Project know more about beer than any customer walking through their doors. And Troy Bedik at Civil Life is brewing one of the best beers in St. Louis – their American Brown is by far a public favorite, and that’s her baby now.” She recommends women interested in learning more join a homebrew club like Femme Ferment or The OG – the group where Abbey Spencer, head brewer at Third Wheel Brewing, got her start.

from left, earthbound beer co-owners jeff siddons, stuart keating, robin johnson and rebecca schranz earthbound beer 2724 cherokee st., st. louis, 314.769.9576,  earthboundbeer.com Guide to Beer 2018

Schranz doesn’t fit into a familiar narrative, and that may be indicative of most women who find themselves on the production side of beer. She’s not a female version of the male brewer. Unlike a lot of burly, bearded people in the industry, beer isn’t her lifelong passion; but it has become her calling card and allowed her to pursue her true passion. “I think I like beer because I can learn stuff, but if I weren’t making beer I’d be out learning stuff and probably paying too much for it,” she reasoned. “I like big tasks, and I like learning throughout all of that. Right now, it just happens to be that beer is my learning, but I’m also learning how to run a business and learning how to manage people,” she said. “It’s tough, but it’s never boring.” saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27


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ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

get festive Grab your calendar, prepare your liver and save the dates. St. Louis is awash in beer festivals this year. – Claire Ma

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Buzz’d Beer Festival

Alton is abuzz about this festival that coincides with the third anniversary of The Old Bakery Beer Co. More than 20 breweries feature beer with flowers, honey and fruit that celebrate local pollinators. Tickets available online and at Old Bakery Beer. March 4 – The Old Bakery Beer Co., Alton, oldbakerybeer.com

Ales for Tails

Support Tenth Life Cat Rescue and Needy Paws Dog Rescue while enjoying beer from places like Burr Oak Brewery and Crown Valley brewery, dozens of homebrews, and a petthemed marketplace. Tickets available online. March 10 – American Czech Educational Center, St. Louis, ales4tails. eventbrite.com

FestivAle

Get your ale fix and support the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation at this event featuring more than 40 brewers like Boulevard Brewing Co. and WellBeing Brewing. Then, chow down on food provided by vendors like Café Piazza. Tickets available online. March 23 – Union Station, St. Louis, festivalestl.com

Schlafly Stout & Oyster Festival

Few things are better than bivalves and beer. Schlafly flies in 80,000 oysters and more than 20 shuckers for this free

Guide to Beer 2018

event where guests can slurp and sip more than 15 Schlafly stouts. March 23 and 24 – Schlafly Tap Room, St. Louis, schlafly.com

Philly Pretzel Factory. Tickets available online or at Circle 7 Ranch. May 12 – Paul A. Schroeder Park, Manchester, manchestermo.gov/beerfest

Columbia Trails Homebrew Festival

Lupulin Carnival

Sample more than 60 beers from more than 25 homebrewers and vote for your favorite – the winner will have their beer on tap at Stubborn German Brewing Co. Tickets available online or at the event. April 14 – Borsch Park, Valmeyer, Illinois, Facebook: Columbia Trails Homebrew Festival

St. Louis Microfest

This two-day festival features more than 125 craft and international breweries like Old Bakery Beer Co., Kirkwood Station Brewing Co. and Peel Brewing Co. Stick around for live music, food from Mission Taco Joint, Bogart’s Smokehouse and The Dam. Tickets will be available online. May 4 and 5 – Upper Muny Parking Lot, St. Louis, stlmicrofest.org

Manchester Craft Beer Festival Sample more than 20 local and national craft breweries including Civil Life Brewing Co., Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. and Goose Island, and dig into food provided by vendors like Nothing Bundt Cakes and

More than 70 national and local breweries join 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s annual carnival, including 2nd Shift Brewing, Six Mile Bridge Beer, Against the Grain and Transient Artisan Ales. Don’t miss the aerial acrobatics and Ferris wheel. Tickets available online. May 19 – Union Station, St. Louis, lupulincarnival.com

Daniel Boone Homebrew Fest

History meets homebrew at this festival featuring local clubs like STL Brewminati and Garage Brewers Society, in addition to breweries like Third Wheel Brewing and Augusta Brewing Co. Tickets available online. May 19 – Historic Daniel Boone Home, Defiance, Facebook: Daniel Boone Home Brew Fest

IndiHop

One festival, two neighborhoods, 50 different beers – 25 storefronts in The Grove and Cherokee Street host local breweries. Stop, sip, shop and then hop on the trolley to the other neighborhood. Tickets will be available online. June 2 – The Grove and Cherokee Street, indihopstl.com

Criderfest

Around 50 local and regional breweries pour at this Pink Floyd-themed festival at 2nd Shift Brewing. Dig into food by Guerrilla Street Food and coffee by Blueprint Coffee and Dark Matter Coffee. A cover band provides the tunes. Tickets will be available online. June 9 – 2nd Shift Brewing Co, St. Louis, 2ndshiftbrewing.com

Heritage Festival

Heritage Festival returns to Forest Park for a single four-hour event. Enjoy pours from more than 50 St. Louis Brewers Guild members like Square One Brewing Co., Urban Chestnut and Charleville Brewing Co. Tickets will be available online in April. July 14 – Forest Park Grand Basin, St. Louis, stlbeer.org

St. Louis Craft Beer Week

Celebrate our city’s rich beer heritage with nine days of events, from beer dinners to trivia nights to tap takeovers. Don’t miss one of the week’s highlights, the Midwest Belgian Beer Fest on July 28. Tickets and complete schedule will be available online. July 27 to Aug. 4 – St. Louis, stlbeerweek.com

Hop in the City

Sample all that Schlafly has to offer at its annual outdoor festival with unlimited pours of almost everything, from the

hoppiest brews to the darkest stouts. Food is also available for purchase. Tickets will be available online. Sept. 15 – The Schlafly Tap Room, St. Louis, schlafly.com

Augusta Bottoms Beer Festival

Sip on brews and spirits from more than 40 breweries, homebrew associations and distilleries. Look for Two Plumbers Brewing Co., 4204 Main Street Brewing Co. and host Augusta Brewing Co. Tickets will be available online. Oct. 6 – Mel L. Fuhr Memorial Ball Field, Augusta, Facebook: Augusta Bottoms Beer Festival

Brewers Guild Halloween Party

Don your most impressive Halloween costume and join the St. Louis Brewers Guild for a scary-good time. Sample beers, enter the costume contest and take a ride on the haunted Hefe Ride. Tickets will be available online. Oct. 27 – Lafayette Park, St. Louis, stlbeer.org

The Great St. Louis Czech Beer Festival

With more than 20 local breweries in attendance, this festival is worth Czeching out. Previous attendees have included Schlafly, Firestone Walker and Leaky Road Meadery. Tickets will be available online. Dec. 8 – American Czech Education Center, St. Louis, eventbrite.com

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Sauce Magazine // March 2018  
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