February 2013

kimchi an ancient condiment with fresh flair

a v - d a y m e a t - u p ∙ m a r d i g r a s o f f t h e g r i d ∙ m a r t i n i g l a s s o u t, h e a t e d m u g i n s t. l 2013 o u is’ i n d e pe n d e nt cu l i n a ry au th o r it y February

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fe b r ua r y 2 013 • VO LUM E 13, Issue 1 PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR SENIOR STAFF WRITER SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Fact checker PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

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Allyson Mace Stacy Schultz Meera Nagarajan Julie Cohen Ligaya Figueras Stacy Schultz Rosa Heyman Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Stacy Schultz Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Laura Miller, Greg Rannells, Kristi Schiffman, Carmen Troesser Glenn Bardgett, Alexa Beattie, Matt Berkley, Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras, Byron Kerman, Cory King, Denise Kruse, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz, Beth Styles Erin Keplinger Sharon Arnot Erin Keplinger Angie Rosenberg Erin Estopare, Rachel Gaertner, Jill George,Scott Hadfield, Erin Keplinger, Allyson Mace, Angie Rosenberg Jill George

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St. Louis, MO 63103 editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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contents 9 A La Carte

Reviews 17 new and notable: Marcella's Mia Sorella

by Michael Renner

21 Nightlife: Bar Les Frères

11

24

by Matt Berkley

22 Cook’s Books: Helen Fletcher’s Favorites

by Julie Cohen

24 Tour: Soulard Spinoff

by Matt Berkley

Home cooking 27 What in the world: Honey beans

36

by Ligaya Figueras

28 Vegetize it: Pizza rolls Snacking Made Easy (and Cheesy)

by Beth Styles

30 One ingredient, 3 ways: Chocolate Chocolate Rendezvous

by Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras and stacy Schultz

32 The New Classics Mango Peruvian Cuisine's Aji de Gallina

Last course 49 Stuff to do by byron Kerman

50 Five questions for: Steve Gontram

by Byron Kerman

cover details

features 36 A Life with Swine One farmer’s plan for staying high on the hog BY ligaya figueras

42 Kimchi: Spicy, Sour, Sharp, Spectacular The newest surge in the DIY pickling trend is bringing Korea’s broad spectrum of flavors to Americans’ awakened palates

BY Alexa Beattie and Denise Kruse

baby bok choi kimchi p. 42

Photo by Greg Rannells a v-day meat-up p. 11 mardi gras off the grid p. 24 martini glass out, heated mug in p. 12

= recipe on this page

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We’re (obviously) big proponents of print here, yet we can’t help but squeal at all that the digital age offers. Did you know how many ways you can enjoy Sauce Magazine these days? From your computer screen to your tablet, even your phone, the options are nearly endless. Here are a few new ways to connect with us all month long. Thanks, Internet. We owe you one.

JUST BROWSING When it’s not absolutely necessary, we know that single-digit temperatures make leaving the warmth of your down comforter seem downright crazy. Cozy beneath the covers and hoping to cuddle up with the latest issue of Sauce? No problem. Just grab your computer, tablet or smart phone and head to SauceMagazine.com.

Click the photo of our cover to browse this month’s entire issue as well as the many before it.

INSTAGRAM | Ever wonder what we eat, drink and read when we’re not talking about it inside the magazine? Every day on Instagram, we’re showing you. You’ll find us photographing our lunches, documenting our test kitchen trials, even revealing the cookbooks currently on our nightstands. If you aren’t familiar with Instagram, think of it as Facebook’s hipster little sister. We can’t promise it’s always pretty, but it’s always damn tasty.

Find us @SAUCEmag

PINTEREST | Remember the days of corkboards and pushpins? They may have been simpler times, but it’s never been so easy to see what we love than it is on Pinterest. This virtual pinboard has everything you enjoy about Sauce neatly organized into easy-tofind categories including Quick & Easy Dinner Ideas, Products We Love, Books Fit for a Foodie and even contests where you can win prizes. Find us at pinterest.com/saucemagazine

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU's Cityscape on Friday, February 8 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. for more from the St. Louis culinarians whose names now grace the covers of shiny new cookbooks. For more on their new projects, see page 22.

facebook.com/saucemagazine | twitter.com/saucemag | pinterest.com/saucemagazine | instagram.com/saucemag

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EAT THIS

We’re still suckers for the confections of our childhood, so when we eyed the HomeMade ‘Moon-Shine’ Pies on the menu at HENDRICKS BBQ, we couldn’t deny our craving for a thick layer of marshmallow icing sandwiched between old-fashioned graham cracker cookies. And since the folks at Hendricks show great restraint in only dipping half of this Photo by greg rannells

decadent dessert in chocolate, we feel no remorse about double-fisting both moon pies that come in an order.

Hendricks BBQ • 1200 S. Main St., St. Charles • 636.724.8600 • hendricksbbq.com

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make this

Save yourself the money and trouble of a reservation this Valentine’s Day, and instead make your better half swoon over a homemade steak. Step 1: Open the windows and turn on the hood! This gets smoky. Next, let 2 boneless rib-eye steaks rest at room temperature for about 1 hour on paper towels to remove any excess moisture. Place a cast-iron pan (or heavy pan) over high heat until the pan is just smoking. Liberally season the first steak with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, then place it in the pan for 5 minutes. For medium, flip and cook for another 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and drop in 2 to 3 tablespoons of butter and several sprigs of fresh thyme. Baste the steak for about 1 minute by tilting the pan and repeatedly spooning the melted butter over the steak. Transfer the cooked steak to a sheet pan and place it in a 200-degree oven to keep warm while you make the other steak. Let the next steak rest for 5 minutes before serving. — Meera Nagarajan

photo by greg rannells

I buy my steaks at The Smokehouse Market, where you can get a top choice, boneless rib-eye for about $19/ pound. Weight isn’t important here; just be sure you have a good thickness and plenty of marbling.

The Smokehouse Market 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.3314, smokehousemarket.com

February 2013

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Glühwein Drink deeply from this scented, ruby red house-made German mulled wine. It’ll warm you up and give you the fortitude to face your future as told by soothsayers reading palms and tarot cards at this new South City watering hole.

The Fortune Teller Bar, 2635 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.776.2337, thefortunetellerbar.com

Primrose Toddy When overcast skies and the drab landscape of winter have you contemplating hibernation, this golden colored toddy made with a shot of lemon-orange spiced houseinfused scotch will take you from bleak to bonnie in no time. Cheer up, lassie! Flowering primroses aren’t that far off.

Eleven Eleven Mississippi, 1111 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.9999, 1111-m.com

Where hot is cool

Winter Apple Toddy

Winter Apple Toddy at Urban Eats Café & Bakery

Urban Eats Café & Bakery, 3301 Meramec St., St. Louis, 314.558.7580, urbaneatscafe.com

Spanish Coffee Piping hot coffee plus enough Kahlúa to take the edge off. A tall cappuccino glass rimmed with sugar and brandy and set ablaze. A trigger of whipped cream. Caffeine, booze, sugar and fire. It’s all the motivation you need to get your lazy butt off the couch.

Café Ventana, 3919 W. Pine Blvd., St. Louis, 314.531.7500, cafeventana.com

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Photo by laura miller

Jack Frost is nipping at your nose. Who cares whether you throw on a chunky sweater, oldfashioned long johns or high-tech Gore-Tex. The style question that matters is what to drink to warm your insides.

Here, four of the coolest hot tipples in town.

– Ligaya Figueras

Heat up some just-juiced apples, stir in a couple ounces of bourbon infused with apples and warm baking spices, give a swirl with the honey dipper, garnish with a cinnamon stick and lemon peel … a toddy has never felt so fresh, coddled or – dare we say it? – healthy. Say “yes” to the lavendervodka whipped cream topper. It’s house-made. And it’s worth it.

[beer] Still holding on to your New Year’s resolution eating habits? Here are a few beers that won’t kill your diet.

Although lighter, these brews still offer enough intensity to keep the attention of any palate. – Cory King, certified Cicerone and brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales

Batch 19 Pre-Prohibition Style Lager This golden American lager pours with a nice bubbly head, and its effervescence helps to draw out the subtle aroma of a grainy bread. The first sip has a surprising amount of earthy, grassy hops with some citrus and caramel layers. It finishes with a crisp, dry tingle that reminds you that this light beer won’t destroy your diet.

Guinness Draught I’ll say it again: Just because a beer is black doesn’t mean it’s heavy! Guinness is the classic example where the low alcohol (less calories) and dry body (less residual sugar) are offset by roasted malt and nitrogenation to create full flavors of chocolate, cream and coffee in a beer that has two calories less per 100 milliliters than Budweiser.

Berliner Style Weisse, Brettanomyces Lambicus Special Edition The Berliner Style Weisse Bier from Gasthaus & Gosebrauerei Bayerischer Bahnhof is one of my favorite styles. Full of lemon, tropical fruits, stone fruits and a rich, malty, wheaty mid-palate, they are very dry and rarely stronger than 3-percent ABV. The natural acidity in these tart session beers make you feel like you’re drinking something closer to Champagne.

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Owner's Day Off Between owning and running Trattoria Marcella and Marcella’s Mia Sorella, Steve (left) and Jamie Komorek are busy men. So what do the brothers do when they get a moment to themselves? They keep on running – together. For the past 14 years, the Komoreks, who live across the street from one another, have been logging miles. But these aren’t just “let’s-workoff-the-T-Ravs” types of runs. With marathons in their past, when Steve and Jamie lace up their sneakers, just like how they run their businesses, they’re in it for the long haul.

For more from the Komorek’s, turn to page 17 to see Michael Renner’s review of their new restaurant, Marcella’s Mia Sorella.

Photo by ashley gieseking

[wine] The end of cold weather is in sight and vinous thoughts drift to lighter wines, though not quite yet to the crisp whites of summer. The solution to winter’s doldrums? Flavorful pink wines, which are especially fine choices for any Valentine celebration. Here are three bottles from vastly different regions of the world. – Glenn Bardgett, member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn's

February 2013

Graham Beck Brut Rosé, South Africa This traditional chardonnay and pinot noir blend combines to create tiny pink bubbles with seductive aromas of as many berries as you can imagine. At around $18, this isn’t just for celebrating (unless you’re celebrating how good life is, of course). I kept thinking of smoked salmon as I was sipping.

Chase “Hayne Vineyard” Zinfandel Rosé, 2011, St. Helena, Napa Valley, Calif. The Hayne Vineyard in the heart of Napa was planted in 1903.

This is a limited production of flavors that linger long enough to almost make you forget that this beautiful $22 wine is actually pink. Fourlegged proteins will love it.

M. Chapoutier “Belleruche” Côtesdu-Rhône Rosé, 2011, France From southern France, this is dominated by Grenache, with some Cinsaut and syrah blended in. Pink-to-orange in color, this dry $15 bottle will conjure beautiful images of sipping along the Mediterranean. Think cheeses, charcuterie or any grilled seafood.

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reviews

new and notable: marcella's mia sorella p. 17 nightlife: bar les frères p. 21 cook’s books: helen fletcher's favorites p. 22 tour: mardi gras hot spots p. 24

New and Notable: Marcella's Mia Sorella

by Michael Renner • Photos by Carmen Troesser

U

sed to be that cheap Asian buffets, sports bars, pizza joints and chain eateries were as good as it got when it came to West County dining. Sure, there were a few stellar options (Hello, Annie Gunn’s.), but for the most part, foodie suburbanites had to drive 20-plus miles toward the Arch to experience the latest buzz-worthy restaurant. The past few years, however, have seen an explosion of really good eats in West County. Bistro 1130, Veritas, Balaban’s, EdgeWild, among a few, are keeping West Countians close to home and even drawing in those brave adventurers not afraid of driving west of I-270. Now adding to the list of Chesterfield gems is Marcella’s Mia Sorella, a restaurant with roots in the city, just south of The Hill to be exact.

Marcella’s Mia Sorella 14426 Clayton Road, Ballwin, 636.333.1015, miasorellastl.com

The brothers Komorek have run Trattoria Marcella for 17 years in south St. Louis city. Their signature lobster risotto and fritto misto have been the Siren song for many, including devoted diners motoring in from the western suburbs.

The Komoreks (Jamie runs the front of the house; Steve cooks.) are clear about their new venture: Mia Sorella may be Marcella’s sister restaurant, but it’s no twin. You won’t find that risotto or fried calamari on the menu, but the toasted ravioli did manage to migrate west. Usually the bane of most menus, Mia Sorella’s t-ravs are made in-house, filled with shredded – not ground – spiced beef and pork, and served with a vibrant marinara sauce that’s chunky with bright flavor.

Tear one of the fried, plump pillows apart, and you’ll find minced carrots and parsley. The order of six was too big for a couple but would be perfect for a party of four or six.

Pappardelle pasta with chicken, proscuitto and spinach February 2013

There are other differences, like a smaller wine inventory and greater emphasis on wines by the glass (5-ounce pour), quartino (8.5-ounces) and mezzo litro (17-ounces). Most wines by the bottle are in the $30 range. It’s always a nice touch when you’re undecided and a server says “let me bring you a taste of something.” Peroni is the only beer saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

review new and notable: marcella's mia sorella

House-made gnocchi

on tap (Everything else is by the bottle.) and, like sister Marcella, there’s a healthy emphasis on cocktails. Bucking the trend, there’s no wood-fired oven for the pizza, but there is a stone oven that’s just fine for the hand-spun pies. The dough is made with extra-virgin olive oil and a super-soft winter wheat flour imported from Naples, giving the final crisp crust excellent chew. You can build your own or choose from several specialty pies. A roasted garlic crema served as the base for the proscuitto cotto pie, topped with

spinach, Gruyere and thin slices of the Italian dry-cured ham for a balanced creamy, salty, meaty mouthful. To the kitchen’s credit, it makes most of the pizza toppings in-house, including meatballs, pancetta and fennel sausage.

There’s a broad selection of pastas, all made in-house. Wide ribbons of pappardelle, bathed in a broth aromatic with roasted garlic and mushrooms, hid tender chunks of white chicken meat and chewy diced prosciutto, making

for a satisfying belly-patting meal on a cold winter night. Where many Italian restaurants use frozen cannelloni, Mia Sorella makes its own delicate sheets, rolls them up with tender shreds of braised beef, spinach and Parmigiano before drenching the fat tubes in a thick, red sauce rich with the concentrated flavor of San Marzano tomatoes and a bit of cream.

Two to an order, they arrived bubbling hot and steamy with the fragrance of an Italian home kitchen. The bread is baked in-house and has a chewy crust and fluffy interior, but a ramekin of EVOO in addition to the cold slab of butter would have done wonders.

The Komoreks’ version of the classic St. Louis-Italian classic steak modiga is worth pursing, especially if you enjoy cheese, mushrooms and beef with a bit of charred crust to contrast the meatiness and smooth creaminess. Peek under the blanket of melting soft buffalo

mozzarella (No provolone or Provel here!) and mushrooms topping the two thick tenderloin medallions – lightly patted with breadcrumbs, charbroiled, fork-tender – and there are thin slices of prosciutto, adding a subtle layer of saltiness and texture. On the other side of the plate sits a huge mound of sundried-tomato polenta, creamy and orange but not overpowered by the concentrated earthy sweetness of the tomatoes. In between, grilled asparagus. A douse of roasted garlic-lemon sauce over the meat permeates the entire dish. It’s a big meal that goes beyond the standard starchvegetable-protein combo, and you’ll probably take half of it home. Ribollita, a hearty Tuscan potage of bread and vegetables, was redolent with garlic and chock-full of cauliflower, carrots, tomato, celery, broccoli raab and white beans, all in a rich vegetable stock – another comforting, warming dish on a cold night.

The servers are experienced and know their stuff, but even the best can be overwhelmed by the onslaught of weekend crowds. Reservations are not accepted, so plan ahead. Chef Steve often makes the rounds table to table checking on diners’ meals. The Italian classic tiramisu was tweaked with diced bananas in the bottom layer of coffee-soaked ladyfingers and the top layer of grated chocolate for even greater contrasting flavor and texture.

A subtly flavored butterscotch pudding topped with whipped cream came in a small canning jar. Cute.

Marcella’s Mia Sorella is located in the Ballwin Grove Plaza, amid other new eateries like 6 North Cafe and Circle 7 Ranch, and right up the road from Bistro 1130. It’s a good addition for those not wanting to drive miles and miles east for their Italian fix, unless, of course, they come home for the lobster risotto.

AT A GLANCE Where Marcella’s Mia Sorella, 14426 Clayton Road, Ballwin, 636.333.1015, miasorellastl.com.

Don’t Miss Dishes Pappardelle pasta with chicken, proscuitto and spinach. Beef tenderloin with proscuitto cotto and buffalo mozzarella.

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Vibe Adults with established careers. Casual setting where even the food looks at ease.

Painted cement floors and high metal ceiling make for jarring decibel levels in the bar, especially on weekend nights.

Entree Prices $14 to $19.

Pizzas: $13.

Pastas: $12 to $17.

When Mon. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fri. – 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Sat. – 5 to 11 p.m.

February 2013

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review nightlife: Bar Les FrÈres

Nightlife: Bar Les Frères

by Matt berkley • Photos by Jonathan Gayman

cocktails start at around $8.). Those in search of something more decadent would do well to order the Dumante Alexander, which mixes pistachio liqueur with Bar Les FrÈres crème de cacao and gets 7637 Wydown Blvd., topped with thin shards Clayton, 314.725.8880, of chocolate.

Facebook: Bar Les Frères

Name drop all you want, but it won’t give you any pull in snagging a seat. Even at 6 p.m., even on a weekday, the white marble tabletops, chic parlor couches and handful of bar stools teem with Claytonites nonetoo-eager to abandon their posts. Well heeled, smartly clad, mostly older groups (along with attractive younger couples) chat, sip, laugh and linger over small plates like Toulouse sausage or potato blinis with caviar. Be prepared to stand in this cozy little 27-seater saloon. Though big crowds in this small space may slow the service and lay the pressure on, cool heads and steady hands continue to ply their craft behind the bar.

B

ar Les Frères, which was unveiled in November by Zoe Pidgeon (think Bobo Noodle House and I Fratellini) on the fashionable little commercial strip of Wydown Boulevard near downtown Clayton, is considerably less cordial than its moniker (French for “the brothers’ bar”) would have you believe. But then again, maybe it isn’t.

On a weekend night when a thirsty bunch of people are jammed into a space roughly the size of my first post-college apartment, it’s hard to feel anything but fraternal.

Friday night with Sazerac in hand, I survey the crowd. First, though, a well deserved sip. After negotiating past an annoyed doorman who preferred I wait for a table, sidestepping the stampede of an outgoing party, and tapping my foot for a bartender tending to the two couples busier sharing inside jokes than actually ordering, I’m ready to finally start my weekend. For this purpose, and for this February 2013

place, the Sazerac is a nice choice. Strong but not overwhelming, the harshness of the whiskey is offset by little tastes of simple syrup, Peychaud bitters, a bit of lemon and a quick swirl of absinthe to give it that hit of licorice. This is what Don Draper would drink if he was in Paris or New Orleans. It’s what you should be drinking at Les Frères. An acceptable alternative would be the Pimm’s Cup. Though a quintessentially warm-weather drink, the Pimm’s is done up so supremely well at this bar that it deserves to be enjoyed year-round. Less impressive – much, much less impressive – is the Negroni: an impossibly chalky-tasting mess doused with Campari, gin, sweet vermouth and orange. Thankfully, patrons are able to wash such mistakes down with a choice selection of other classic cocktails – the Lillet Blanc, St. Germaine Cocktail, French 75 – along with a handful of absinthes, Pernod, bottled beers, and the ubiquitous list of red, white and sparkling wines (Most

Like the drinks and the patrons, the space is well dressed. There are dozens of temples of booze like this on random Parisian side streets, but only one in St. Louis county.

Thankfully lacking in tacky 1920s French liquor posters or other clichéd facsimiles, Les Frères instead leans toward the authentic – a feat few foreign-themed establishments in town accomplish with such ease. Its strength lies in simplicity. Formerly a shoe repair shop, the space has been transformed into a casual French cafe, which, in reality for us Yankees, is anything but casual.

Imposing walls slathered in rich, pure red are spotted with 18th century portraits of European gentry. The traditional parlor feel is amped up by the wall of deer antlers mounted casually over the bar mirror and the soft candles augmented by the light of a giant chandelier dangling overhead.

Though Bar Les Frères was designed partially as an overflow waiting area for the almost equally tiny I Fratellini, which sits across the way, this colorful sibling operation, dripping in vintage charm, stands firmly enough on its own. Hence the overcrowding, which can be a real pain. But with a stiff Sazerac like this, waiting for a seat never tasted so good.

order it: Bar Les Frères

The Pimm’s Cup a refreshing smack-across-the-face of a drink that is worth every penny.

Nothing pairs with bubbles like a blini, so if you opt for Champagne, go ahead and get an order of these Russian pancakes, topped with a dollop of creme fraiche and a scoop of caviar. You’ll feel fancier than you have in years.

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review Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, Simone Beck “Growing up, I didn’t like eating – how ironic. But later on, after I was married, I began to see it as a means to getting together and having fun. When Julia Child came out with her book, I became fascinated, but I knew nothing. At the time, America wasn’t in to food too much. We used a lot of canned ingredients; there wasn’t much technique to it.

What I was after was the technique.”

3 Books to Help You Become A Goddess (or God) of Pastry

After 23 years in business, Helen Fletcher closed her bakery, Truffes, in 2009. Yet she kept one of her most important accounts: being Tony’s pastry chef, trading in her own commercial kitchen for the one inside the fine dining restaurant. Between baking at Tony’s; maintaining her blog, The Ardent Cook; and writing her second cookbook, European Tarts (out this winter); Fletcher clearly isn’t interested in retirement. Here are her recommendations for keeping your kitchen filled with pies, cakes and cookies.

The Cake Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum “Rose asked me for one of my recipes for this book; she also inscribed my copy to ‘Helen, Goddess in Pastry,’ but that’s not the only reason I love her. Rose’s recipes work, and I like her format.

At the time, people weren’t printing in both grams and ounces. It’s a tremendous boon for anyone interesting in baking.“

Understanding Baking by Joseph Amendola and Donald Lundberg “In cooking, you can correct a lot of mistakes, but in baking you can’t.

This book taught me the science of baking. It’s like the Bible; it gives you guidelines, not recipes – like why you needed baking soda, not just when.”

A scale “When you bake, accuracy is very important. Flour can pat down; when it’s shipped, it jiggles. If you just put a cup in, you might have up to an ounce and a half more of extra flour.

The only way to get a true measurement is to weigh it.”

online exclusive Helen Fletcher isn’t the only local chef finding her name on the slick cover of a new book recently. This month, we take a look at four local culinarians whose books are on shelves right now, from Annie Gunn’s Lou Rook and Stone Soup Cottage’s Carl McConnell to Sanctuaria’s Matt Seiter and the goddess of pastry herself Helen Fletcher. Every Tuesday on the blog at SauceMagazine.com, check out By the Book, where we cook and share recipes from these books. Then, enter to win a copy to add to your collection.

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photos by jonathan gayman; illustration by vidhya nagarajan

Cook’s books: Helen Fletcher's favorites

February 2013

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review tour: mardi gras hot spots

Soulard Spinoff

It’s hard to imagine Mardi Gras anywhere besides Soulard. Between the grand parade and the throngs of revelers, options that don’t involve horrendous parking, overpriced beer and endless bathroom lines are easily overlooked. Had your fill of house parties, packed pubs and overflowing beer tents? Here are a handful of alternative destinations for the annual feast of debauchery. – matt berkley

Bar Les Frères

Bar Les Frères, 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880 Turn to page 21 to check out our Nightlife review of Bar Les Frères.

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Photo by JONATHAN GAYMAN

Soulard may be the epicenter of St. Louis carnival, but Bar Les Frères stirs up the most authentic French cocktails in town. This upscale new drinkery is ideal for those looking to indulge in classy, Old World debauchery. Though the lines quickly build at this elegant little saloon, it does little to affect the precision of the bar staff, who turn out high-end renditions of the French 75, Sidecar, Sazerac and St. Germaine Cocktail. Dining options are likewise exquisite: Trade that stale hot dog you enjoyed in Mardi Gras past for one of Les Frères’ house-made Toulouse sausages with red cabbage and potato pancakes.

Ragin Cajun Piano Bar

Bones French Quarter Bar and Grill

crawfish photo by JONATHAN GAYMAN; bread pudding photo by laura miller; library annex photo by ashley gieseking

GRAHAM'S GRILL & BAYOU BAR

Head to the crawfish boil at Graham's Grill & Bayou Bar on Fat Tuesday.

This year marks the 17th annual Mardi Gras celebration at Graham’s Grill & Bayou Bar, a tropical getaway near downtown Kirkwood. Proclaiming it “the biggest and the best Mardi Gras in the county,” owner Dan Graham offers the flavor of New Orleans minus the hassle of a 10-hour drive. Various Cajun food and drink specials are offered throughout the week, including parade day, when Graham hosts a massive crawfish boil at 2 p.m., followed by Dixieland and Cajun bands in Graham’s grill room. Crawfish are sold by the pound, half pound or as a full dinner, complete with andouille sausage, corn and boiled potatoes. Weather permitting, the crowd boozes up on tables outside or heads indoors to the palm treelined Bayou Bar for cheap beer, mixed drink specials (like the massive $6 Hurricanes), and NOLA-inspired eats: $1 oysters on the half shell, fresh peel-and-eat shrimp, and vodka-infused oyster shooters. The party culminates on Fat Tuesday with another crawfish boil, live entertainment and a house recipe rum punch that will improve any wind chill.

Graham’s Grill & Bayou Bar, 612 W. Woodbine Ave., Kirkwood, 314.965.2003, saucemagazine.com/ grahamsgrill/ February 2013

Unbeknownst to non-locals, West County has a staple in its nightlife scene that has been keeping Mardi Gras alive all day everyday for over 30 years. Perched in a weathered strip mall, Bones French Quarter Bar and Grill has proven the ruin of many a poor, thirsty soul looking for fun at jaw-dropping prices.

On Tuesdays, this place is home to the $2 pitcher, $2 wings, $2 well drinks, $2 burgers and $2 beers. On parade day, Bones serves as the go-to West County Mardi Gras outpost. Those looking to avoid the designated driver route can take advantage of the bar’s $30 bus tickets, which, along with a ride back and forth from Soulard, includes an eyes-wide-open breakfast buffet complete with allyou-can-drink bloody marys and Screwdrivers. But the real party commences when the sun sets, as the Soulard survivors congregate in rowdy madness with the less inebriated crowd of regulars who clamber in to enjoy a late-night DJ and $12 buckets, along with shot deals and Hurricane drink specials.

Looking to hang with some boozed-up townies who refuse to let go of their 20s?

This is your place.

Bones French Quarter Bar and Grill, 14766 Manchester Road, Ballwin, 636.391.8293, fqstl.com

White chocolate bread pudding at Ragin Cajun Piano Bar.

Over the Clark Bridge, in that little river city to our north, the good folks of Alton, Ill., protect a patch of little known drinking and eating houses where a serious Mardi Gras crowd does serious damage to its liver and waistline.

Standing out from the rest is the Ragin Cajun Piano Bar, which keeps Mardi Gras alive year-round, serving up frosty beers and from-scratch Creole dishes to the steady hum of live zydeco and blues tunes. A kitschy Cajun alligator theme infuses this authentic dive bar, which transforms into a lively piano bar on Friday and Saturday nights. It may not be the side bar at Patty O’s in the French Quarter, but the well mixed Hurricanes, boiled crawfish and incredible house-made white-chocolate bread pudding are enough to make you forget you’re in Illinois for a while.

Ragin Cajun Piano Bar, 210 W. Third St., Alton, Ill., 618.433.9119

The Library Annex What’s a Mardi Gras party without a bunch of smashed collegeaged kids looking to make bad decisions and overcharge their parents’ debit cards? Let the insanity begin. Midtown’s Library Annex throws opens its doors at 8 a.m., on parade day and parties hard until 3 a.m., the next.

A complimentary shuttle to the Soulard festivities is available between 9 a.m. and noon for those who purchase a ticket to the breakfast buffet or an early morning adult beverage. But the real entertainment at the Annex kicks off after dark. While Hurricanes on parade day may seem obligatory, sharing one of the Annex’s signature Billy Buckets – a 128-ounce blue concoction of liquored-up bliss (five different types of alcohol) – is a great way to make some friends. Grab one of those around 8 p.m., as the Soulard folks finish stumbling off the bus to attend the Midtown Mardi Gras bash inside the Annex, which features drink specials such as $5 Hurricanes, along with random contests, giveaways and local DJs who keep spinning way past your bedtime.

Boasting an array of flat screens, shuffleboard and billiard tables, and an enormous iPod-shaped jukebox exploding with familiar bar favorites, the Library Annex is a frat boy’s dream.

The Library Annex, 3693 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.652.8484, thelibraryannex.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

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what in the world: honey beans p. 27 vegetize it: pizza rolls p. 28 one ingredient, 3 ways: chocolate p. 30 the new classics: aji de gallina p. 32

what in the world are

honey beans?

Also called Nigerian brown beans or Nigerian sweet beans, honey beans are a variety of black-eyed peas with a uniquely sweet flavor. These light brown, kidney-shaped cowpeas, known as ewa oloyin in Yoruba, are enjoyed throughout West Africa.

Use it In soups and stews or to prepare this classic, hearty Nigerian dish of beans topped with an oily tomato-and-pepper sauce.

Buy it Worldwide International Foods & African Market, 8430 Olive Blvd., U. City, 314.994.0229, worldwideint.com – Ligaya Figueras

Ewa Oloyin Courtesy of African Palace Restaurant Bar and Grill’s Koffy Osun 4 Servings

photo by carmen troesser

2 cups dried honey beans 1 Roma tomato, quartered Half of a yellow onion, coarsely chopped 1 red bell pepper, de-stemmed, de-seeded and coarsely chopped 1 habanero pepper de-stemmed but not de-seeded, coarsely chopped 5 tsp. palm oil or vegetable oil

February 2013

1 chicken bouillon cube Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• Sort through the dried beans to remove pebbles or grit.

Rinse with cold water in a colander, then place in a large nonreactive pot or bowl.

Cover with water and let soak for 6 to 8 hours, or overnight.

• Drain, discarding the water.

Place the beans in a large pot with 6 cups of fresh water. Bring to a boil. Once it reaches a rolling boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cover. Let simmer for 1 hour, or until the beans have absorbed nearly all of the water and are very soft (past fork tender but not mushy).

Periodically check to make sure there is enough water so the beans don’t dry out or scorch, adding water, ¼ cup at a time, as needed. When the beans are done, season with salt. Remove from heat and keep warm.

• Combine the tomato, onion and peppers in a blender.

Purée until smooth. Set aside.

• Heat the oil in a saucepan set over medium heat. Add the bouillon cube, stirring to dissolve. Stir in the vegetable purée. Season with salt and pepper.

• Divide the beans between 4 plates. Ladle the sauce on top.

If desired, serve with rice, fried plantains and cooked spinach.

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home cooking Vegetize it: pizza rolls

Snacking Made Easy (and Cheesy) BY beth styles • Photo by Kristi Schiffman

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F

ebruary is a time of love and laurels. On that first Sunday, we’ll celebrate our country’s love of passing the pigskin and the sport’s ultimate accomplishment: raising that golden football high in the sky. A week later, with the sounds of whistles still ringing in our ears, we’ll gather for the music industry’s mecca, squealing with delight (and sometimes dismay) as new kings and queens of pop are crowned. But who can concentrate on Lady Gaga’s latest spectacle when our Oscar ballots (and worst-dressed predictions) have yet to be filled out?

All this crowd-gathering hoopla means February is a time for appetizer-filled parties – that tricky segment of entertaining which calls for quick-to-make, easy-to-grab snacks that all too often lack excitement, imagination and, well, flavor. But the buck stops here. This month, we’re taking the classic pizza roll we all know and love from childhood (and our penniless college days) and breaking it down into ingredients we can actually pronounce – and flavors you actually salivate over.

The most challenging part of making (or remaking) this beloved after-school snack wasn’t trying to make a suitable substitute for those tongue-tying ingredients. That was fairly simple. The stumper was finding a way to do so that could compete with the original’s prep convenience: i.e. just popping them in the oven. The solution?

Wonton wrappers. Though these delicate sheets yield a slightly bigger and longer version than the little bundles pulled from a cardboard box, they also lend a crispy crunch around the edges that is a nice complement to the ooey, gooey center.

But be warned: Sealing the edges can be a bit tricky, so make sure you use plenty of egg white and pinch together firmly. You might even seal the edges with a fork.

Then again, what’s a pizza roll without a little cheesy spillage on the foil? That was always my favorite part.

February 2013

Pizza Rolls

• Mix the ingredients in a medium-size mixing bowl.

Makes 100 Rolls 1 12-oz. pkg. wonton wrappers Filling (recipes follow) 2 egg whites, lightly beaten in a small bowl • Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with foil and spray them with nonstick cooking spray. Place 15 wonton wrappers on each sheet, keeping the remaining wrappers under a damp paper towel or dish towel.

• Place 1 rounded tablespoon of the mixture into the center of each wrapper.

• Dip the tip of your finger (or a pastry brush) into the bowl of egg whites and wet the left and top sides of each wrapper.

Fold the bottom to the top and pinch the top and side edges tightly to seal. If desired, use the tines of a fork to press and seal the edges.

• Ensure the rolls are 1 to 2 inches apart.

Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the cheese is melted. Transfer to a plate and serve immediately.

• Repeat this process until all of the rolls are made.

Pepperoni and Sausage filling Olive oil 2 oz. Match Italian veggie sausage* 2 oz. veggie pepperoni slices, minced* 8 oz. mozzarella pearls, minced 1¼ tsp. Italian seasoning 1 tsp. salt 1½ cups marinara sauce • Warm the oil in a skillet set over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the sausage and saute until browned.

With a slotted spoon, remove to a plate to cool.

• Once cool, combine the sausage with the next 5 ingredients in a medium-size bowl. Stir to combine

4-oz. veggie pepperoni slices, minced* 8-oz. mozzarella pearls, minced 1¼ tsp. Italian seasoning 1 tsp. salt 1½ cups marinara sauce

Sausage and Broccolini filling Olive oil 2 oz. Match Italian veggie sausage* 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 oz. Broccolini, chopped 1 tsp. crushed red pepper 8 oz. mozzarella pearls, minced 1 tsp. salt

Mushroom and Cheese filling

Pepperoni filling

add the mushrooms and garlic and saute for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, remove to a plate to cool.

• Once cool, combine the mushrooms with the next 4 ingredients. Stir to combine.

Olive oil 4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced 4 oz. fontina cheese 4 oz. mozzarella pearls, minced 1 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese 1 tsp. salt • Warm the oil in a skillet set over mediumhigh heat. When the oil is shimmering,

• Warm the oil in a skillet set over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the sausage and saute until browned.

With a slotted spoon, remove to a plate to cool.

• In the same saute pan set over mediumhigh heat, saute the garlic, Broccolini and crushed red pepper for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.

• Once cool, combine the browned sausage with the Broccolini mixture.

Add the mozzarella and salt and stir to combine. * Available at Whole Foods, 1160 Town & Country Crossing, Town & Country, 636.527.1160, wholefoodsmarket.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29

home cooking one ingredient, 3 ways: chocolate

Chocolate Rendezvous

By Julie Cohen, Ligaya Figueras and Stacy Schultz Photo by Carmen Troesser

W

hen the Day of Love is over, you’re usually stuck with a lighter wallet and a box of half-eaten chocolates. This year, don’t bring the sweet stuff to work or bake it into measly ol’ cookies; put that cocoa gold to work on the savory side of the kitchen. Chopped, melted or luxuriously spread, here are three ways to make all that leftover chocolate the star of your next meal.

1. Crostini Cut a French baguette into ¼-inch thick slices.

Arrange the slices on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Bake in 375-degree oven for 2 to 3 minutes, or until toasted.

Meanwhile, in a double boiler, melt a 4.25-ounce bar of dark chocolate. Remove from heat and combine in a bowl with ¼ cup of saba*. Spread 1 teaspoon chocolate saba sauce atop each toasted baguette slice, then sprinkle with coarse kosher salt and orange zest. (*Saba, a sweet condiment made from grape must, is sold at specialty stores and Italian markets such as DiGregorio’s Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.1062, digregoriofoods.com.)

2. Salad Finely chop 2 tablespoons each of bittersweet chocolate and shelled, roasted pistachios. Set aside in separate small bowls. Roughly chop 3 dried figs and toss them with 1 teaspoon of honey in a small bowl. Rinse 2 cups of baby arugula and place in a medium-size bowl. In a jar with a lid, combine 1 tablespoon of Dijon mustard, 3 tablespoons of Sherry vinegar, a generous pinch of kosher salt and 5 tablespoons of olive oil. Shake vigorously to combine. Spoon 4 tablespoons of the vinaigrette over the arugula and toss gently to coat. Serve the dressed arugula in 2 salad bowls alongside the pistachios, chocolate, honeyed figs and shavings of fresh salty pecorino, adding each accouterment and the remaining vinaigrette as desired.

3. Chili In a Dutch oven or large pot, saute 1 chopped onion and 1 chopped orange bell pepper in olive oil until the onion is translucent. Stir in 3 diced garlic cloves, ½ teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes, 1 tablespoon of chili powder, ½ teaspoon of ground cinnamon, ¾ teaspoon of salt and 2 teaspoons each of cumin, ground coriander and dried oregano and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add in 6 cups of vegetable broth, 1 cup of washed green lentils, 1 15-ounce can of tomatoes and any combination of 2 pounds of chopped root vegetables (Carrots and sweet potatoes are nice.). Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook for 45 minutes, then stir in 1½ ounces (about ¼ cup) of semisweet chocolate, until it melts. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Serve over cornbread.

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home cooking the new classics: aji de gallina

6 Servings

Eaten a dish at an area restaurant that you’d do just about anything to make at home? Send us an email at pr@saucemagazine.com to tell us about it. Then let us do our best to deliver the recipe and make it one of your New Classics.

Mango Peruvian Cuisine, 1101 Lucas Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.9993, mangoperu.com

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Courtesy of Mango Peruvian Cuisine’s Jorge Calvo 4 yellow potatoes Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste 5 slices white bread ¾ cup evaporated milk 1 large carrot 1 celery stalk 1½ lbs. boneless skinless chicken breast ¼ cup vegetable oil 3 Tbsp. aji amarillo paste* 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 tsp. turmeric 4 Tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese 3 Tbsp. chopped walnuts 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced 10 Peruvian black olives, halved* • Place the potatoes in a medium-size pot and cover with cold, salted water, and bring to a boil. Cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork. Drain and let cool.

• Once cool, peel and quarter the potatoes.

Set aside.

• Place the white bread in a small bowl and pour the evaporated milk over it. Let it soak.

• Place the carrot and celery in a large pot and cover with 6 cups of water. Bring to a boil.

• Once boiling, add the chicken and bring the liquid to a simmer.

Let cook for 10 to 15

•

•

•

•

•

minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Remove the chicken and set on a plate to cool. Strain the broth, reserving 2 cups.

To the same pot, add the oil, aji amarillo paste, garlic and onions. Saute until the onions are soft and golden. Add the turmeric and stir to coat the onions. Transfer to a plate or bowl and let cool.

Once the chicken has cooled, shred it into bite-size pieces.

Transfer the milkand-bread mixture and 1½ cups of the reserved chicken broth to a blender or food processor. Blend until smooth.

Pour the creamy bread mixture into the same pot and set over medium-low heat. Bring to a low simmer. Stir, then add the shredded chicken, Parmesan cheese and walnuts.

Continue to stir until the mixture is warmed through, adding additional stock as needed if the sauce is too thick. Season with salt and white pepper to taste.

Divide the quartered potatoes, egg slices, halved olives and sauce between 6 plates. Serve with rice.

* Available at Global Foods Market, 421 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com

February 2013

Photo by jonathan gayman

Aji de Gallina

February 2013

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A Life with Swine One farmer’s plan for staying high on the hog

By Ligaya Figueras | photos by carmen troesser

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Everyone loves hearing that the pork they ate was once a happy hog. But what about the farmer?

THIS GUY IS A HOG MAN

Chad Rensing is a 37-year-old, second-generation hog farmer. Things have never been easy on the 300-acre farm in New Douglas, Ill., that his parents established some 40 years ago. But 2012 was especially tough.

He watched a record-breaking drought dry up his corn and drive up feed prices. According to Rensing, for the first three quarters of 2012, he paid an average of $380 to $400 per ton of feed. At the end of July, prices skyrocketed to $660 per ton – a 65- to 74-percent increase. Contending with increased production costs, Rensing and other hog farmers around the country began liquidating their herds, resulting in a supply glut in the pork market. “In September, the market dropped off,” Rensing said. “In a month, I lost a substantial value in both cash and equity. We’re bleeding in a bad way.” From the end of 2011 to the first three quarters of 2012, Rensing received an average of $50 to $55 for a weaned pig. In September, the price plummeted to $4. Feeder pigs went from an average of $55 to $65 to an astonishing $12.

Faced with the recent heavy slump in hog prices, Rensing has to compete with deep-pocketed corporate meat producers that are capable of withstanding long periods of negative margins, hoping that smaller operations like Rensing’s will cease production first.

“We’re getting our butts kicked by corporations, and they are not stopping,” Rensing commented.

“Corporations are sealing the fate of the indies.”

Other events have hardened Rensing, shaping him into the sharp-talking, matter-of-fact farmer that he’s become after running the business for the last 18 years. He remembers the pushback he faced from some members of the Slow Food-St. Louis chapter in 2009 after being included in a Sauce article on the relationships between chefs and farmers. He was spotlighted with Amy Zupanci, chef-owner of the now-defunct Fond in Edwardsville, Ill., who regularly purchased his pork and beef. The two were criticized by Slow Food -St. Louis for some of Rensing’s farming practices, including his use of probiotics on his hogs.

He remembers litigation that his family endured in the late 1990s. Reticent to talk of the long-ago legal matter, he told me it had to do with the poor diet of his hogs, explaining that the animals’ diet was formulated by nutritionists in the meat industry. “The way they were designing their diets, it was horrible.

There’s been times we couldn’t even eat our own pork off of this farm. Quality was horrible,” he lamented.

“December 17, 1998. That was the date we changed their feed.” The high-quality diet of his hogs is now a major source of pride for Rensing, although the biggest smile you can eek out of the tall, lanky farmer is a slight upturn at the mouth. “I will go up against anybody on meat quality,” he said with conviction.

Drought, herd liquidation, corporate competition, probiotics, litigation.

Rensing has had much to contend with, yet the daily job of caring for animals remains. And for all intents and purposes, he’s a solo operation. “My parents – my dad is 71 and my mom is 67 – that’s my working staff.” Then there’s the task of getting the product to market, having a buyer for all that pork, erstwhile hoping that somehow he can eke out a living wage for his efforts. Work-life balance? Rensing, who works from dawn “until I’m done,” would likely scoff at the life coach catchphrase.

“It’s been 18 years since I had a vacation and 16 [years] without a day off,” he stated on more than one occasion.

“I miss a lot of time with my daughter.”

Farmers have always juggled the job of trying to satisfy the needs of eater, eaten and self. But never has Rensing’s livelihood been so difficult.

“I think the American consumer has watched the pig man get destroyed,” Rensing said. “One thing they say to me about me: ‘This guy is a hog man.’ We have forgotten that we don’t have to be complicated to be good hog men.”

So what is his modern hog farm like? And what kind of role does a hardworking, good-intentioned hog farmer like Rensing play within our local food community? To answer these questions, I first needed to visit the farm.

AT LEFT: A view of the gestation house, where pregnant pigs are kept. There are currently 270 productive sows at Chad Rensing’s farm. Like many hog farmers around the country, Rensing reduced his herd size due to the fallout in the hog market last year. As a result, he plans to remove some stalls in the gestation house to provide the animals with more space. The gestation house is a covered structure with a four-foot concrete barrier wall, while the remainder is open to let in outdoor air.

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1 3

2

6

1. Chad Rensing looks forward to restaurant delivery day, when his job takes him off the farm. Here, he chats with Brian Dougherty, co-owner of The Block. 2. While delivering to Schlafly Bottleworks, he takes a minute to talk with chef Matt Bessler. 3. Rensing's parents still live on the farm in New Douglas, Ill., in the house where their son was born and raised. 4. Rensing raises six breeds of hogs: Landrace, Durok, York, Hampshire, Berkshire and Chester White. 5. Rensing hopes that his recent herd reduction might give him more time with his daughter, Mary.

6. Schlafly was one of the first area restaurants to carry Rensing's meat.

7 7. The 37-year-old farmer stops to ponder his future – and that of his 40-year-old farm.

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THE FARM

Rain and thunderstorms swept through Madison County the day that I made the 40-mile drive from St. Louis out to the Rensing farm. Pelted with sheets of cold rain and blasts of high wind as I stepped out of my car, I was admittedly relieved when Rensing led the way to a series of large buildings where we’d be dry from the storm and away from chilly gusts.

“Don’t mind the squealing there,” he said to me as we entered the gestation house, filled with dozens of pregnant sows that began to snort and grunt from the interruption. “They just know you’re different,” he joked.

Rensing currently has 270 productive sows. At any given time most are either pregnant or farrowing (giving birth), with roughly 10 percent of the herd open or mating. Due to the fallout in the hog market,

Compared to the hushed environment of the farrowing room, the nursery was loud, with rambunctious barrows (castrated males) and gilts (females who have not produced a litter) busy establishing a pecking order, eating and vying for space.

That structure now houses Rensing’s modest herd of roughly four-dozen cattle. The hogs were moved in 1995 to new, indoor confinement facilities that enabled the Rensings to increase their volume and efficiency and hope for high profits.

Rensing’s hogs are fed a diet of corn and soybean meal.

The young pigs are given fortified pellet feed, to which Rensing mixes powdered antibiotics because the pigs’ immune systems get suppressed after being weaned from their mother’s milk, explained Rensing, clarifying that the amount of antibiotics added is minor at six pounds of antibiotics per every 8,000 pounds of feed. “Everybody’s got this perception that we’re just taking and dumping it in by the bagful,” he said. “That’s not the case.”

For a time, Rensing’s farm classified as a small CAFO – short for concentrated animal feeding operation – or the comparable layman’s term “factory farm” – because it held 1,000 or more animal units (a measurement of total livestock based on the feed or space requirements of each animal). “We became a CAFO from about 1995 to roughly 2004, 2005,” he said. After Rensing dropped his animal units, the farm was no longer classified as a CAFO. “As far as the overall pork industry in the United States, farms our size [are] not very significant, or as significant as we used to be.”

At about three months of age, when a pig reaches 75 pounds, it’s moved to the finishing house, the last

“We’re getting our butts kicked by corporations, and they are not stopping,” Rensing commented.

“Corporations are sealing the fate of the indies.”

Rensing recently decreased his herd size from 300. As a result of the reduction, he’ll soon begin removing some of the gestation stalls, which will give each sow more square footage in her pen.

Once a sow shows utter development, she is moved to the farrowing room, where she’ll give birth to a litter of anywhere between two and 22 piglets. Rensing’s operation is outfitted with a total of four farrowing rooms. Each holds 24 crates – though not all are currently in use – in which mama and babies remain for three weeks while the piglets nurse on their mother’s milk.

We entered one of the farrowing rooms. It was quiet and still, with a warm light set low in each crate to provide extra warmth for the newborns. As I held a pink piglet born less than 24 hours earlier, Rensing motioned to the farrowing crates with a newer model of bow bar running atop each crate. The bar gives the piglets safe access to their mothers’ milk while preventing the sow from accidentally stepping on or crushing them. It also protects the farmer from a sow who becomes aggressive in defending her litter.

February 2013

stage in the life of a hog raised for food. Rensing’s finishing house is covered and with a concrete floor.

Similar to the gestation house, four-foot concrete barrier walls make up the perimeter while the remainder is open, letting in outdoor air. His six breeds of hogs – Landrace, Durok, York, Hampshire, Berkshire and Chester White – remain at the finishing house until they reach about 240 pounds, or six months old. At that point, they’re loaded on a truck, headed for slaughter.

THEN AND NOW

“Everything has changed over time,” Rensing said when we gathered post-tour in his office area as he gestured for me to take the lone chair while he remained standing.

When the Rensings first began raising pigs, gestating swine lived in a barn-like structure with an open-floor plan that allowed them to go inside or out. While the floor was concrete, sows gave birth on an eightinch bed of straw rather than in steel-lined crates.

In raising animals in confinement buildings, Rensing is representative of the farming system that the majority of pig producers follow today. “It was the standard,” Rensing explained of the family’s decision to choose a confinement system. “The mega-packers – like the Cargills, Excels – we went along with what they wanted us to do years ago and it has not worked out well for us.” At the opposite end of the hog-farming spectrum is a pasture-based system in which pigs are raised outdoors using pasture as a nutrition source.

Rensing’s farm is far from perfect. He could switch to a more open-layout system, but with record low prices, decreasing margins and corporate competition, making the leap seems financially impossible. “If I don’t have the capital to do it up front, it’s not worth it,” he said, noting that he would lose efficiencies during a transitional period. And if he abandoned the existing confinement facility altogether? “The bank still wants their money,” he replied. He noted that the value per acre of farmland is higher for raising crops than it is hogs. “You can’t pay for it with a pig. Years ago, hogs were a mortgage lifter; now they are a mortgage maker.”

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“It’s been 18 years since I had a vacation and 16 [years] without a day off,” Rensing stated on more than one occasion.

“I miss a lot of time with my daughter.”

Chad Rensing with his daughter, Mary.

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“I don’t want to beg for your business, I want to earn it.”

It’s been almost 20 years since Rensing and his parents made a decision that bet on their farm’s future, a wager that hasn’t paid off. He hopes to have better luck this time around. His plan for getting the farm back in the black? Diversify.

Opportunities opened for Rensing when he struck a deal with Paul Otten and Brad Schmitz, owners of Wenneman Meat Market in St. Libory, Ill. An old-school butcher shop, Wenneman now slaughters and processes nearly 30 percent of Rensing’s pork for his restaurant clientele and for retail accounts like Township Grocer in Edwardsville, Ill. Rensing sells the majority of his hogs to pork packer TrimRite Food Corp., based in Carpentersville, Ill. He’s worked with Trim-Rite for the last year and a half, having chosen the company because, “they were smaller and paying a premium,” he explained. “I’d rather work with a smaller business.” Rensing also works with Grantfork Meats in Highland, Ill., which processes a minor number of his hogs and the majority of his beef.

Five years ago, Rensing became a vendor at Edwardsville’s Goshen Farmers Market. “I stepped way the hell out of my comfort zone,” he recalled about learning to sell directly to the public. “That first year, half my market was one little, old lady.

She used to buy 50 percent of my sales almost every Saturday. And it built from there.” While Rensing has since become a fixture at the farmers market, he’s quick to point out that he can’t rely on that marketplace to make a living. “You got the emptybaggers and you’ve got the buyers,” he explained.

“We need more buyers who are committed to helping the local producers.”

The relationships Rensing has made at the farmers market have resulted in numerous accounts with restaurants that want to support quality, local suppliers. Bigelo’s Bistro in Edwardsville relies on his pork chops. The Block uses Rensing’s pork exclusively, with chef-owners Marc Del Pietro and Brian Dougherty counting on one to two whole hogs a week for their Webster Groves restaurant. It is Rensing’s pork that Jonathan Jones, co-owner of Southwest Diner, chooses for making green chile stew, red chile-braised pork shoulder, and housemade breakfast sausages and chorizo. “I like dealing directly with the farmer,” Jones said of his decision to buy from Rensing. “He’s the one that is delivering.

He’s been great to work with. For the quality of the product, his price is very good.”

Chef Matt Bessler of Schafly Bottleworks, who has worked with Rensing’s pork products for the last five

February 2013

years, concurred that, when you have to choose, local trumps many other factors. “It’s been a lot better when it’s locally raised and it’s a family business rather than using a big, corporate company.”

Rensing has been supplying Acero with pork for the last two years so chef Adam Gnau can transform pork butts into porchetta. For Gnau, local topped his priority list when it came to sourcing meat. “It seems that most everyone we can locally procure from care about their animals more,” Gnau explained. “He doesn’t have so much of a number that he can’t keep control over everything. He’s the guy out there dealing with them and delivering me the product.”

“His quality of meat is above and beyond highproduction food,” said Eric “Ed” Heath, chef and co-owner of Cleveland-Heath who has used Rensing’s pork and beef since opening the restaurant in Edwardsville in late 2011. He called Rensing’s pork T-bone “perfectly marbled” and “near perfection,” his pork belly consistent in its fat content. “He’s a moderate producer but it feels like a small farm, getting that kind of level of quality from him. He basically doesn’t have employees. He does it all himself all day long. We can relate to that as small business owners.” Heath’s partner, Jenny Cleveland, praised Rensing as a fantastic supplier of high-quality meat whom she can rely on to provide custom cuts at a fairly high volume, on short notice and within her diners’ budgets.

Heath agreed that Rensing both fills a gap in the local food supply and helps him meet the high demands of running a restaurant. “If we weren’t using Chad and only a local, outdoor farm – we do 700 people on a Saturday – I don’t know [if ] we could get enough to feed all those people,” he explained.

“With Chad, we love him because he’s local,” Cleveland said. “He’s not organic, not outdoor hogs.

His product does have that much more care than if we were buying commodity pork.” Yet, she noted, “it’s a step in the right direction and someone we like to support. … Through him we’ve met a guy who sells free-range chickens. … We’ve been able to find sources for farm-fresh eggs. That’s all come through Chad and his relationships with the [Goshen Farmers] Market and him helping people to find outlets for their products.”

Rensing has also begun to fill the role of go-to guy for chefs seeking other local products. You need bison? Lamb? Call Chad. Not only will he connect you, he’ll act as broker and deliver it to your door. “It’s about being a resource instead of being a beggar for your business. I don’t want to

beg for your business; I want to earn it. If I have to diversify myself off my farm to supplement my personal income, I’m going to,” said Rensing, doubtful that he’ll ever retire but determined to remain his own boss.

Eight years ago, that same conviction prompted him to start raising cattle, something that his parents had quit some 20 years before. He’s also sowing his oats in the show pig sector, raising Pietrain, an exotic breed. “The sows are going to get bred no matter what, so I might as well have two marketing avenues.

Actually, it’ll be three,” he said, revising, “if you consider wholesale, retail and pig show pigs.”

HOG FUTURES

Rensing didn’t attend John Wood Community College to become a businessman. He went to learn how to be a good hog farmer. But times are changing. These days, not only is he feeding hogs, he’s pulling out his iPhone to get the feed on industry news from websites like SwineWeb.com.

And fortunately, the headlines are getting better.

Weaned pigs have risen from their bottomed-out price of $4 last September to $66 in January, while feeder pigs have risen from their low of $12 to $75. But the damage has been done. Rensing will feel the effects of the bottoming of the market for years to come. “There were some days it was pretty sickening to load pigs when you had all your expensive feed costs in ‘em and you know you’re losing money,” he explained. “It killed us. It’s not fun right now, but it wouldn’t be the first time we dug ourselves out of a hole.”

And at a time when the rate of farmer suicide is three times the national average, this affable young farmer is experiencing an auxiliary benefit to direct sales: a social life. He looks forward to Wednesdays, when he makes his restaurant delivery rounds, taking a moment to shoot the breeze with chefs and maybe even enjoy a beer. He called his budding restaurant relationships “really, really positive.”

It’s uplifting to hear about younger farmers willing to take over their family business, but it would be naïve to think that job is easy. Decisions have to be made, and the consequences of those decisions can be felt for years, decades even. Rensing’s farming practices aren’t perfect. And while he knows his future can’t be either, he’s hopeful that, if he plays his cards right, it will be bright. And considering how he’s adapting to market realities – decreasing his herd size, and diversifying his market base and income stream while filling a need in our local food community – the light at the end of his tunnel seems to be flickering brighter than it has in years.

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Kimchi Spicy,

Sour, Sharp,

Spectacular

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The newest surge in the DIY pickling trend is bringing Korea’s broad spectrum of flavors to Americans’ awakened palates

By Alexa Beattie and Denise Kruse photos by greg rannells

February 2013

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Napa Cabbage and Daikon Radish Kimchi Five Bistro 5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com

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From left: Chicken-Skin Wrapped Scallops, Grits, Fennel, Kimchi at John Perkins' January pop-up restaurant Le Coq, 360 N. Boyle Ave., St. Louis, 314.362.6754, entrestl.com/presents Kimchi Slaw at Seoul Taco, 571 Mehlville Ave., U. City, 314.863.1148, seoultacostl.com

n the worlds of food and fashion, style is cyclical. It seems as though any trend, however strange and antiquated, eventually makes its way back into the spotlight. And kimchi, one of the most surprising restaurant trends du jour, has been waiting in the wings for centuries.

Considering what kimchi is in its simplest form – vegetables that have been pickled and then left to ferment – its popularity is baffling.

And yet there it is, on the table at such highly acclaimed restaurants as New York’s Momofuku, San Francisco’s Benu and Chicago’s Girl & the Goat. In St. Louis, it’s hitting menus of all shapes and sizes: the leather-bound ones propped up on white tablecloths and the laminated ones atop a pub bar; the kind that get printed daily for a pop-up and the kind that get taped into the window of a food truck. There’s no doubt about it: This strong-smelling, funky-flavored condiment has arrived.

February 2013

Kimchi’s definitive origins are unclear, though the earliest documentation of pickled radishes dates back to 12th-century Korea. Kimchi was first made as a way to preserve the bounty of fresh cabbage that was available in abundance during Korea’s harvest each fall. Later, chiles were introduced to the mix, creating the spicy flavor profile often associated with the dish today. In Korea, kimchi is traditionally served with every meal as part of the “banchan” – side dishes that also include soy-bean paste, steamed eggs and gochujang, a spicy chile paste that’s also making a name for itself in American kitchens right now. There are hundreds of ways to make kimchi – with garlic, salt and hot chile paste for red-hot styles that make your tongue tingle with spice, or with flavored vinegars and bean paste for milder versions – or with dozens of other ingredients for the myriad flavor profiles in between. “[Kimchi] complements every Korean dish so well and also serves as a great palate cleanser,” explained David Choi, chef-owner of Seoul Taco. At his food truck and new restaurant in The Loop, Choi serves his version of his Korean grandmother’s kimchi – cool-to-the-touch, hot-tothe-taste finely shredded cabbage – sauteed into fried rice or stuffed inside a burrito, along with lettuce, cheese, carrots, sour cream and your choice of pork, chicken, tofu or bulgogi-marinated steak.

Kimchi’s rebirth isn’t limited to Korean-fusion eateries, though. Chefs all over town are using kimchi’s sharp bite as a foil to richer elements on the plate. At Farmhaus, kimchi joins ginger-mint porchetta – a heavy-handed, savory pork roast – alongside the type of fluffy buns that put Momofuku’s David Chang on the map. For chef de cuisine Andrew Jennrich, kimchi is the perfect counterpart to the dish’s luxurious elements: The deeply flavorful veggies lighten the weightiness of the fatty porchetta with nice crunch and a little heat. Executive chef Rex Hale works similar wonders at 360, where cucumbers and kimchi counter the rich barbecued pork that gets tucked into tacos. For his chicken-themed pop-up restaurant Le Coq, chef John Perkins transformed his house-made kimchi into a ruby red sauce that was sweet, spicy, slightly sour and smooth as satin. He then swept an artful brushstroke of the good stuff around chunky sea scallops that were hugged tightly by crispy chicken skin. At Five Bistro, house-made Napa cabbage and daikon radish kimchi gets paired with Tempura beef liver, pickled shiitake mushrooms and onion grass. Chef-owner Anthony Devoti then drizzles a little soy reduction and dots some soy aioli on the plate before topping things off with a Continued on page 47. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45

Porchetta Steamed Buns Farmhaus 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., St. Louis 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

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nod to decadence: the quivering, sun-orange yolk of a duck egg. Last fall, Michael Miller, executive chef at Dressel’s Public House, was putting his own twist on kimchi’s roots, replacing traditional Napa cabbage with Brussels sprouts, carrot and daikon radish, creating a familiar vegetable that boasted a spicy-hot, sour crunch that diners didn’t expect. It’s an unexpected flavor profile chef Chris Bork also uses on the menu at Blood & Sand, where he pairs a sweet apple and daikon radish kimchi with tender veal sweetbreads and a savory Brussels sprout slaw.

This bridge between the familiar and the unfamiliar – infusing foreign flavors into approachable dishes that put diners at ease and then turning around and putting their taste buds to the test – may just be the impetus behind kimchi’s modern day revival. It took Choi about six months to put kimchi on Seoul Taco’s menu, worried that the diners lining up for his spicy pork-topped tacos weren’t ready for kimchi’s infamous funk. But while he admited that the strong smell still repels some customers, it appears local palates have taken to this ancient-meets-modern trend: He regularly fields requests to add it to other entrees. Choi credited an unprecedented awareness of cultural cuisines with diners today. “People might have before unconsciously categorized Korean cuisine as Chinese or Japanese, but the flavor profiles you get from Korean food [are] totally different,” he explained. He’s right. The crunchy, salty stealth heat of this fermented dish is a flavor profile unlike any other in Asian cuisine.

Or maybe kimchi is just the next step in the evergrowing DIY renaissance pulsing through our restaurants today. Bork has been pickling fresh veggies since Blood & Sand opened its doors in 2011, and Farmhaus’ chef-owner Kevin Willmann has been known to spend late nights in the kitchen canning chow-chow – a vegetable and pickle relish spiked with mustard. An endless drive to create and a little brainstorming later, and it isn’t hard to see how fermentation became the new experiment.

Also helping kimchi’s cause is the fact that it carries definite health benefits, as the fermented culture produces the healthy bacteria that aids in digestion.

“People are more conscious about what they are eating these days and are discovering the medicinal properties of fermented foods such as kimchi,” Miller explained. “Not to mention it has a unique and exciting effect on the palate.”

And that’s just the point: We may never know what first landed kimchi on this side of the Mississippi, but there’s no denying the role it’s playing in our cuisine.

As this funky, foreign pickle pushes our palates clear out of their comfort zones, it’s simultaneously opening the imaginations of the chefs whose passion fuel the future of our culinary scene. “How awesome is it,” noted Jennrich, “that rotting cabbage has become something so totally cool?”

February 2013

For canners, homemade kimchi is the next step in DIY preservation. Kimchi traditionally takes months to ferment, but who can wait when such funky perfection is at the finish line? These three recipes will have you digging into this trendy Korean condiment in less than a week.

Easy Traditional Kimchi Courtesy of Seoul Taco’s David Choi This recipe was passed down from Choi’s Korean grandmother.

It uses the most traditional of kimchi vegetables – Napa cabbage – but feel free to use cucumber, Korean radish or even green onions.

mixture, make the spicy base: Combine the crushed red pepper, fish sauce, sugar, minced garlic and ginger powder in a bowl and mix until it forms a paste. Set aside.

• Remove the cabbage from the salt water and triple-wash it. Strain the cabbage and squeeze the water out of the leaves. Leave the cabbage in the strainer for 1 to 2 hours.

• Take the spicy paste and apply it between each leaf. Place in an airtight jar.

• The kimchi can be enjoyed right away or, if you prefer more fermentation (recommended), leave the jar at room temperature overnight, then refrigerate for about 2 days before serving.

Granny Smith Apple and Daikon Kimchi Courtesy of Blood & Sand’s Chris Bork This recipe scraps the cabbage in favor of tart Granny Smith apple and daikon radish, a root vegetable that lends itself well to pickling.

½ cup sea salt 1 head Napa cabbage, cored and quartered Cold water 1 cup crushed red pepper ¼ cup fish sauce 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. freshly minced garlic 1 Tbsp. ginger powder

2 green onions, chopped 1 Tbsp. ginger, minced 1 Tbsp. freshly minced garlic 2 Tbsp. fresh lime zest 4 Tbsp. gochujang* 1 tsp. fish sauce 100 mL rice wine vinegar 1 tsp. salt 1½ lb. Granny Smith apples, peeled and julienned ½ lb. daikon radish, peeled and julienned

• Distribute the sea salt among the cabbage quarters, sprinkling salt between each leaf. Transfer the cabbage to a large bowl and fill with enough cold water to cover. Let soak for 2 hours. Turn the cabbage so it soaks evenly in the salt water, then let it sit for another 2 hours.

• While you allow the cabbage to break down in the salt water

• In a large mixing bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the apples and daikon. Mix thoroughly.

• Add the apples and daikon to the mixture and fold gently until they are evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for 3 days.

• The kimchi is now ready to be served. It can also be kept in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

Kimchi Brussels Sprouts Courtesy of Dressel’s Public House’s Michael Miller Here, Napa cabbage gets replaced

by Brussels sprouts, a much smaller member of the cabbage family, while carrots and radishes also make an appearance.

1 gallon water 1 cup kosher salt 5 lbs. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 3 large carrots, peeled and julienned 10 breakfast radishes, washed and cut into ¼-inch disks 15 garlic cloves 12 oz. ginger root, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup chili paste (such as Sambal brand*) 3 Tbsp. fish sauce ½ cup sugar • To make the brine, place the water and salt in a large pot, and bring it to a boil.

• Place the Brussels sprouts, carrots and radishes in a large bowl.

Pour the hot brine over the vegetables, and let sit at room temperature, loosely covered, overnight.

• Drain the vegetables, discarding the brine.

• Next, make the paste: Add the garlic, ginger, chili paste, fish sauce and sugar to a food processor. Blend until smooth.

• Add the paste to the brined vegetables and coat evenly.

• Cover the bowl and leave out at room temperature to ferment for 3 to 5 days. * Available at Jay International Food Co., 3172 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.9393

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stuff to do:

this month

by Byron Kerman

Run for the Chocolate Feb. 10 – 9 a.m., O’Fallon Street, just north of Lumière Place Casino · 314.862.1188 bigshark.com This year’s Run for the Chocolate 5K winds from downtown to Crown Candy Kitchen and back, but we can’t recommend inhaling the Heart Stopping BLT with its whole pound of bacon at the restaurant mid-race. This unusual, “romantic” run means couples can register together, and others who are looking for love can register in the categories of Bachelor, Bachelorette, Cougars, Manthers or the new It’s Complicated category with its three-person Love Triangles teams and two-person Afraid of Commitment teams.

Prizes include edible medals, post-race hot chocolate and blind ice-cream dates at Bissinger’s. The run also includes the option of a one-mile walk. Find registration info at the website above.

Eat Your Heart Out Valentine’s Dinner

pancetta, Brussels sprouts and sunchokes; and grilled beets with rosemary ice cream and honey rosemary mascarpone. Wine pairings are available, cocktails are included and an additional cash bar is on the premises. Get tickets at the website above.

Sugared, Spiced and Everything Iced

Feb. 24 – 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Missouri Botanical Garden 314.577.5100 · mobot.org It’s frosty outside – and inside, when Sugared, Spiced and Everything Iced turns February into a hothouse of exquisite cakes on display.

The annual showcase of what St. Louis Metropolitan Sugar Art Guild members can do means soaring vertical tier cakes; teetering, Technicolor postmodern abstractions; strikingly faithful re-creations of real-world objects; and more. Guild members hold impromptu demonstrations.

Admission is included in garden admission for the day.

Feb. 14 – 7 p.m. and Feb. 16 – 8 p.m., Mad Art · 314.771.8230 eatyourheartoutvday.eventbrite.com Are you happily incarcerated in a prison of love? Then consider celebrating Valentine’s Day in an actual former jail cell with your honey at Mad Art’s Eat Your Heart Out “micro-restaurant.” For two nights only, the gallery’s owner and accomplished cook Ron Buechele turns the holding tanks in the former police station into memorable, candlelit spots for five-course dinners. Prisoner-guests sit at communal tables or two-person private tables and enjoy a menu of deviled quail’s eggs; beet-and-fennel soup; salad of mâche and bull’s blood lettuces with poached pears, black walnuts, fried goat cheese and tart cherry vinaigrette; charcuterie of meats, house-made honey ricotta and pickles; pork belly porchetta with blood orange, fennel seed, sage February 2013

Soup’s On & Just Desserts Contest

·

Feb. 24 – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Meramec Community College Gym · 314.965.0864 manorgrove.com/soups-on

Crackers are included at the annual Soup’s On & Just Desserts Contest to benefit Manor Grove retirement center in Kirkwood. The festive cook-off offers the opportunity to sample dozens of tasty warm soups from this year’s competitors, which includes teams from (deep breath) Balaban’s, Canyon Cafe, Cielo, Culpepper’s, Eclipse, Gobble Stop Smokehouse, Gourmet FoodWorks, Kirkwood Station Brewing Co., Lester’s, Llywelyn’s Pub, Sanctuaria, Straub’s, Tahoe Joe’s, Tei Too and Zoup! Last year’s winner, Monty’s Sandwich Co., will be back to defend its title.

Port Class with Bissinger’s Chocolatier Feb. 17 – 1 to 3 p.m., Mount Pleasant Winery, Augusta, Mo. 636.482.9463 · mountpleasant.com “I am a woman,” said Penelope. “I enjoy frilly lamp covers, sweet perfumes, and the film and television output of Tom Selleck. And oh yes, chocolate – I would cut a gal for chocolate.”

“And I am a man,” said Colt. “I enjoy drag racing, hoagies, and the film and television output of Tom Selleck. And oh yes, port – I like a calm night of reflection by the fire with a fine aged port, the collected works of Rudyard Kipling, and my hounds, Anubis and Osiris.”

“Then let us come together,” Penelope and Colt said as one, “for the Port Class with Bissinger’s Chocolatier at Mount Pleasant Winery. There, sweet, dry port in five local vintages as well as several tawny ports shall commingle with the dark delights of chocolate, in seven pairings. It sounds totally bitchin.’”

Yes it does. Happy V-Day, Penelope and Colt.

Remembering Miss Hullings’ Cooking Class Feb. 12 – 10 a.m. to noon, Dierbergs School of Cooking – Bogey Hills location 636.669.0049 · dierbergs.com

Many St. Louisans have fond memories of Miss Hulling’s Cafeteria, where that famous seven-layer cake ruled the day.

Students in this class will use Miss Hulling’s recipes to re-create crispy cheese-ball bites, beef sliders with steak sauce, Parmesan-herb onion rings, marshmallow fruit salad, and lemon icebox pudding cake with lemon custard sauce.

sponsored events

St. Louis Opera Theatre: Wine and Beer Tasting Feb. 8 – 6 p.m., Sally S. Levy Opera Center 314.963.4223 · opera-stl.org The best and brightest of St. Louis will gather in the Opera Center’s unique rehearsal halls to enjoy wine, beer, hors d’oeuvres and a silent auction. Food will be provided by Baileys’ Chocolate Bar, Companion, LoRusso’s Cucina and Catering, Sqwires and Vin de Set with additional samples from Kaldi’s Coffee and Kakao Chocolate. Proceeds from the event benefit Opera Theatre’s professional training programs for emerging artists. Tickets start at $75 per person.

Run for the Chocolate Feb. 10 – 9 a.m., O’Fallon Street, just north of Lumière Place Casino · 314.862.1188 · bigshark.com See details at left.

Celebrity Chef Series: Deb Perelman March 1 – 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Modesto · 314.772.8004 debperelmansaucecelebseries.eventbrite.com/ For Sauce’s next Celebrity Chef Series presented in partnership with Left Bank Books, Deb Perelman, creator of the celebrated food blog Smitten Kitchen, is our star! Join us as Perelman demonstrates recipes from her long-awaited The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook. Tickets are $45 and include lunch and a copy of her new book, which she will be signing. Seating is limited, so get your tickets at the website above. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 49

5 Questions for Steve Gontram First, there was the wondering: What would chef/restaurateur Steve Gontram’s next move be? Now, there’s only the satisfaction.

At Five Star Burgers, the latest in a chain created by his father, Gontram is plating up some outstanding American food. Here, the creative force who originated Harvest and is considered a local pioneer in the farm-to-table movement, talks Turkey, goat and quail.

1. You’re famous for cooking meals and delivering them yourself right from the kitchen. At Five Star, are you in the back or front of the house? Both.

Today I toasted 200 buns for lunch. On Saturday, I was expediting and running food. I do a little bit of everything. This afternoon, I’m filling out W-2s for my employees.

2. What’s the farthest you’ve traveled for a great meal? I had a great meal in the Fairy Chimneys area in Cappadocia, Turkey. This is an area of rock formations that look like huge stalagmites, and people live in them. Turkey is so gorgeous.

The meal was very traditional, with Turkish coffee, clay-oven cooking and Turkish wine.

3. What’s the most unusual item on the menu at Five Star? On the core menu, the burger that gets the most raves is Dad’s Green Chile Cheeseburger, which is a New Mexico staple. Ours has crispy Hatch chiles, pepper jack cheese, and green-chile mayo – it’s got a kick. We’re doing a fun burgerof-the-month year-round, too. In January, it was the Goat Burger, made with Jones Heritage Farm goat, topped with a little ancho chili-mango salsa and fried plantains.

To see the rest of our interview with Steve, head to SauceMagazine.com/blog.

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5. What’s the funniest thing you’ve seen in a restaurant kitchen? We had a great server leave us at Harvest, and the kitchen decided we would bake him a goodbye cake, and we threw all this awful stuff in it including ghost chiles and served it to him with candles. He took a huge bite, and I don’t think he made it through service; I think he had to leave early. He was a good sport about it.

– Byron Kerman February 2013

Photo by jonathan gayman

Five Star Burgers 8125 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.720.4350, 5starburgers stl.com

4. You’ve been in Bon Appétit, on the Food Network and were invited to prepare dinner at the James Beard House in NYC. What’s the highlight of your culinary career? Definitely the James Beard house. They can put me on the cover of Rolling Stone, but my career highlight will always be the Thanksgiving of ’98. It was a lot of fun and a great honor. I remember I did a yellow beetChampagne as an aperitif and fig-stuffed roast quail. It was like eight courses, a decadent meal.

February 2013

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