Gardening WITH
PETER BOWDEN
When you have a Lifetime Nursery Guarantee like we do at Hewitt's, you get to see a lot of dead shrubs and trees. We always like to look them over to see what went wrong. Over the years a pattern has become apparent. 90% of the dead shrubs and trees we see returned, failed because they were planted too deeply. You can still see the dirt on the stem way above the crown of the plant. When the crown of the plant is below the soil and the bark at the base of the tree is covered with dirt, it will eventually die. It might take a year, or three, but that plant will likely be returned to us for replacement. Let’s go through the process and I’ll show you the correct way to plant. Here I'm planting a Red Dogwood tree, but the same planting method is used for any woody shrub or tree. Make the planting hole a little bit wider than the root ball. Dig the hole only as deep as the root ball or the pot that contains the roots. Next, place the plant into the hole and check the planting depth by laying a stick across the
hole. As you can see, I've dug too deep so I need to fill it in a bit. You avoid suffocating the tree NOT by burying the trunk or stem under the soil. The spot on the tree trunk where the soil is in the pot or ball needs to be visible after planting. I'll add compost or peat moss to the original soil to build up the bottom of the planting hole to insure that the stem isn't buried too deeply. I'll also add Bio-Tone to the bottom of the planting hole. Bio-Tone provides high quality organic nutrients for the tree. Perhaps more important, Bio-Tone also provides beneficial soil microbes and several strains of Mycorrizal fungi. This combination of ingredients insures that the tree (or anything you plant) will be able to establish a strong root system as quickly as possible. Bio-Tone should be added to the bottom of the planting hole near the roots. For an average sized tree or shrub, you’ll want to add about a cup of Bio-Tone. If the soil is extra sandy, add compost or peat moss to help improve the soil’s ability to retain moisture. Next, I place the tree into the hole and check again to make sure I'm at the proper planting depth. The spot where the trunk of the tree meets the soil of its ball or pot should exactly match the level of the soil around your planting hole. In other words, the plant’s stem or trunk should NOT be sunk below the level of the surrounding area. Once you’ve made sure that the crown of the plant (the dividing line on the plant between what is above the ground and what is below) is at the proper level, fill in the rest of the planting hole. You can add more compost or peat moss and bone meal around the sides of the root ball but make sure that the top 1/4 of the hole is filled with the original soil with no peat moss added. When added to the surface, peat moss will dry out, and in a wick-like manner, will draw moisture from below the plant, drying it out.
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This is the point where inexperienced gardeners make another mistake. When you dig a hole, then fill it with a large root ball, there’s going to be soil left over. What do we do with it? Many will opt to pile it up around the trunk or stem. I guess it looks cozy, like tucking the plant in or something. DON’T DO IT! It will have the same negative effect as planting too deeply. If the stem or trunk above ground is covered with soil, it hinders the plant’s ability to pass moisture and nutrients from the root system to the branches and leaves above. It is like slowly strangling the plant. Instead, use the extra soil to build a dishshaped dike or berm out away from the stem of the plant. The dark soil where the stem met the soil in the pot should still be just visible near the trunk of the tree. I haven't planted too deeply as long as I can see the original soil that the tree came in. The dish shape will collect water and direct it down to the root system below. Water heavily after planting to remove any air pockets from the soil. The importance of maintaining proper planting depth extends to 99% of planting situations. From maple trees to marigolds and even your houseplants, the same rule applies. You should also take care when applying bark and other mulches not to pile them up against the stems and trunks of plants. I’m always (sadly) amazed when I see trees with bark mulch piled in a volcano shaped mound around the trunks of trees. Remember: roots are roots and stems are stems. Bury the roots but let the stems be free to breathe.
THANKS FOR THE READ.
SS
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