LIBRETTO FALL 2023 ISSUE 157
BY MARINA HARSS, WRITER AND JOURNALIST
Shopping Our Closet: How Sarasota Opera’s Costume Studio Serves the Company, and the Art of Opera at Large organized, composed of felt, canvas, satin, crinolines, lace and ruffles. This is the Sarasota Opera Costume Studio: 20,000 square feet, containing roughly 350,000 individual pieces. On row after row of racks—three tiers of them, stacked one above the other—are sorted the costumes for over 130 operas, everything from Boris Godunov to The Golden Cockerel to La bohème, Don Giovanni, and La traviata. Some, like the kimonos for Cio-Cio San in Puccini’s Madama Butterfly, come with elaborate written instructions.
Raquel González in Puccini’s Madama Butterfly. Photo by Rod Millington
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n an industrial area a couple of miles east of the Sarasota Bradenton airport sits a large warehouse with white siding. A small sign on the door reads “Sarasota Opera Costume Studio.” Don’t let the nondescript exterior fool you, however. This windowless structure contains a colorful world, tightly-packed and efficiently
Often, the racks contain more than one set of costumes for a single opera. There are two Barber of Sevilles, two Gianni Schicchis, three Rigolettos. In the Traviata area, there is a set of clothes styled in the 1850’s manner, with crinoline dresses (think Queen Victoria), and another fitted with bustles, a style more typical of the 1870’s. Yet another reflects the look associated with the turn of the twentieth century, with Art Nouveau touches. And there is a fourth, a stylish, all-gray-and-white wardrobe designed by the French opera director Jean-Pierre Ponnelle for his 1979 production for Houston Grand Opera. Why so many? Sarasota Opera has been accumulating costumes for decades, for its own use and for its rental business, which rents out costumes to opera and theater companies, and to TV and film productions.
For two decades Sarasota Opera’s Resident Costume Designer Howard Tsvi Kaplan created many of the beautiful, periodspecific attire worn by the characters who appear in Sarasota’s productions. Additional costumes were rented from the Malabar Costume shop, based in Toronto and owned and directed by the master tailor Luigi Speca. Malabar, which opened in 1900, was, until 2019, the largest purveyor of opera costumes in North America. But in 2019, when Speca decided to retire from the business, the shop sold its entire opera stock, about 100 productions, to Sarasota Opera. Seven trucks, loaded with 1,000 boxes each, made their way down from Toronto to the opera’s warehouse just off of Route 301. Last year, when Malabar shut down for good, Speca donated even more items, many of them with a more contemporary look. Continued on page 2
INSIDE 2 4
Costume Studio A Life with Puccini—Maestro DeRenzi on the enduring appeal of his music 6 Introducing Jean Carlos Rodriguez 7 Guilds 9 Planned Giving 10 Valet Parking Reminder 11 Tribute Gifts