Cowgirl BBQ still earning its place as a beloved culinary institution
Cowgirl’s falloff-the-bone, mesquite-smoked baby back ribs come with beans, coleslaw, and potato salad.
Bikram yoga, and vegetarianism. Oh, the times they are a-changin’! Whether you’re drinking or not, there’s much to enjoy from the Cowgirl’s large menu. All the usual suspects are available: burgers, nachos, pulled pork, New-Mex, Tex-Mex, and Cajun, including gluten-free versions and healthier options. A plate of “Wings of Fire” chicken wings scattered with chopped habaneros had me and my friends calling for margaritas and beer for dousing. A plump head of roasted garlic on a plate of bubbling Jack cheese and zippy tomatillo salsa with crostini hit the spot as a lighter option; we were saving room for barbecue, of course. When the ribs served in an eatery with BBQ in its name are falling off the bone and have an intense smokiness even before a sauce is applied, you know the chef has reached smokehouse master status. Even a light smear of a bourbon glaze on a salmon fillet kicked things up a notch, while a Vietnamese-themed bánh mì taco with pickled vegetables and Sriracha drizzle went around the table a few times. You can finish your meal with a slab of decadent flourless chocolate cake with salted caramel ice cream, and then, on Monday nights, head to the main bar for some karaoke. The Cowgirl has pool tables, live music almost every night, and one of the best patios in town for people watching. Two decades and still running—long may she ride!—JV
With trendy gastropubs and high-end beer joints all the rage, it’s comforting to see that in Santa Fe, a good old-fashioned saloon is still in vogue. Cowgirl BBQ, an offshoot of New York City’s Cowgirl Hall of Fame, has been serving up cold ones and bracing cocktails for 22 years, and a visit I made there recently confirmed that its place on Santa Fe’s dining and nightlife scene is secure. Having begun somewhat colorfully as a roadhouse, where booze— along with the urban cowboys and cowgirls who frequently imbibed it—was the focus, the Cowgirl underwent a shift 14 years ago when Chef Patrick Lambert became a partner. The place went from a bar that served food to a restaurant that serves alcohol, and the change has been a positive one. The night I was there, families, foodies, yuppies, hipsters, and barflies all feasted happily under one roof. Even the conversation at my table reflected the evolution, touching on Buddhism, meditation,
digestifs
DOUGLAS MERRIAM
The “Mother of All Green Chile Cheeseburgers,” as it’s called on Cowgirl’s menu, is made from a secret blend of black Angus beef, custom ground beef, locally raised buffalo, and applewood smoked bacon.
Santa Feans love a new restaurant. This fact was dramatically driven home to me late this spring, when Paper Dosa (paper-dosa.com) opened on Cordova. From the minute the doors opened and the large and luscious paper-thin dosas started flying out of the kitchen, Santa Fe foodies were hooked. From 5:30 pm and onward, six nights a week, the joint is jumping. Chef Paulraj Karuppasamy and his lovely wife Nellie Tischler could not be more deserving of their success. Both have done their homework: Paul by perfecting the South Indian menu via a series of pop-up dinners this past year, and Nellie by taking her years of experience in the hospitality industry and adroitly running the floor. If you haven’t stopped in yet, you better hurry—I’m certain Santa Fe’s summer visitors will quickly discover it. Over at the newish Drury Hotel, celeb chef John Sedlar set up shop with Eloisa (druryplazasantafe.com) and immediately raised the bar on dining room and kitchen design. Although Sedlar grew up in Santa Fe, it must be his years in Los Angeles that gave him the chutzpah to create such a provocative environment for showing off his Cal-NewMex cooking. Apart from the gorgeous main dining room, there are plans for a cocktail bar on the rooftop that will be perfect for imbibing while taking in Santa Fe’s mountain vistas. Now that the dust has settled from a bumper crowd at the opening, I look forward to seeing what Sedlar has up his culinary sleeve. The Edible Art Tour on June 12 and 13 is another great way to revel in Santa Fe’s eclectic food scene. For two nights, community forces come together to celebrate the visual and culinary arts, with the city’s favorite restaurants serving food in its top galleries. For tickets and more info, go to artfeast.org and join the (edible) fun. This summer is already looking delicious!—JV june/july 2015
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