Point Conception

Vol. XII, No. 2

SPRING, 1966

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POIMT CONCEPTION

GAVIOTA BEACH

ARROYO EL BULITO

GOTO BAY GOVERNMENT POINT

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POI NT CONCEPTION

By Edward S. Spaui.ding From the earliest times, (here have been two capes, or points, that have stood out prominently and dreadfully in the minds of the mariners who have sailed northward alon" our Pacific Littoral. The more southern of these two is Cape San Lucas, on the tip of Baja, or Lower, California; hut this Cape lies so very many miles to the south of Alta California that it seldom is named in any of our historical narratives. 'I'he more northern of the two, however, is Point Conception, which, as we ail know, is located on the south western corner of Santa Barbara County. This second, very dangerous head land has taken such heavy loll of our ships that, for us, it is the most famous cape of the Norlli American west coast. All of this lies in the past, however; for, in these ultra modern times, so very few of us travel by ship through the Santa Barbara Channel that the Point has all but ceased to be a reality to he dreaded: and it has become instead little more than a vaguely familiar name. Though some have peered down on it from a high seat in an air|)lane, and though a few others have looked at it knowingly from a railroad car window, it is probable that less than one out of every thousand of our citizens actually has stood on its rocky and forbidtling shoreline.

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When, in 15‘12, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo (in the early narratives this brave and hardy mariner invariably goes by the name of “Juan Rodriguez”) entered our Channel from the south and visited many of the Indian villages on the mainland as well as on the islands, he eventually came to its western limits. Here he took especial note of a cape, or headland, that lav on his right. In the relation of this famous voyage it is stated that “on Wednesday, we proceeded along the coast until 10 o'clock, seeing that all the coast was populated: and because there was a fresh wind and the canoes (of the Indians) did not come out to us, we drew near to a headland that forms a caj)e like a galley and named it Ca|)e Galera. And because the northwest wind struck us here, we stood off shore.”

One or two of the statements made in this brief paragrajjh are of more than passing interest to us. The first of these, of course, is Rodriguez’s men tion of the winds he encountered in the near vicinity of the Point. This is a feature of this promintory that has plagued not only Rodriguez but also every other seaman who has attempted to round the Point as he has sailed northward toward Monterey. As an example of this, if one be necessary, almost two centuries later, after Rodriguez had died and had been buried on San Miguel Island. Richard Dana rounded the Point in a sailing ship.

As he did this, he noted in his diary that “the wind begins to blow at Point Ccmception on the first of January and blows all the year ’round.”

The second notable statement deals with the fact that the Point was given the name of “Cape Galera.” In and of itself, this is of the least importance because it is a w'eli known fact that it was only rarely that the name first given to any particular feature of our coastline continued in general use for more than a few years; yet it is of enough interest, when the importance of the headland is remembered, to be mentioned once more.

Viscaino, when he sailed through our Channel in 1602, sixty years after Rodriguez had explored it. is the man usually credited with having given to Cape Galera the name that it bears today. At any rate, Viscaino is known to have arrived at the western extremity of the Chamiel about December 8th, which is the day of the Purisima Concepcion of the Catholic calendar. It seems reasonable to believe that he followed the practice of many other devout Catholic explorers and named the point of land for the day of the calendar on which he first saw it. 'I bis belief is strengthened by an incident that occurred on this headland almost a century and three-quarters later, that is, when General Portola was searching for the then almost fabulous Monterey Bay. Indians of a rancheria in the near vicinity of the Point managed to steal a sword from a careless soldier and so. in derision, the comrades of this man gave to the village the name of “Rancheria de la Kspada.” Fray Crespi, who was present, objected to this; and he named the village “Concepcion de Maria Santisima” because, he said, this was the name that the neighborhood had borne for many years.

When Vancouver passed down the coast, he Anglicized the name to “Point Conception,” which, of course, is the title given to the Cape on all j)resent-day maps. To complete tlie stoiw. it must be noted that the flag-stop at this point on the Southern Pacific Railroad right-of-way is “Concepcion.”

On close inspection, the actual Point, or Cape, is seen to be a promontory made up of at least three headlands. The easternmost of these three and, therefore, the one first encountered by anyone who approaches it from the 2

east, is low and flat—a mesa not more than fifty feet high—with a long, rocky ledge, which is covered at high tide, that runs far out into the ocean.

Though this may have been the “Cape Galera” of the Cabrillo Narrative, it now is known as “Government Point.”

The third one, the most westerly of them, rises from the waves as a small hill; and so it was here, after Alla California became the 31st state of the United States, that the lighthouse was placed. It is a little over a mile to the west and north of Government Point, and it goes by the name of “Point Conception.” Cojo Bay lies immediately to the east of Government Point, and Jalama Beach is three or four miles northwest of Point Conception.

Which one of these three capes was the Cape Galera that Rodriguez named it is impossible to say with certainty today, four centuries after the event.

The probabilities lie with the present “Point Conception.”

Thinking that the readers of Noticias would be interested in pictures of this famous area, one morning in January we set out to visit and to photograph it. Leaving the main highway at Gaviota, we continued west ward on a secondary road that, to all intents and purposes, followed the route taken by General Portola two centuries ago when he led his small company of foot-soldiers northward in search of Monterey, the bay that Viscaino had described in such glowing terms in his report to the Spanish King. Arriving at the Hollister house, which is situated about half way between Government Point and Gaviota, we transferred to a four-wheel-drive “Land Rover,” which our hostess, Mrs. Dole, had procured for our use; and then we set out along the beach for the Point. This drive, which was of some seven miles length, proved quite unexpectedly to be one of the most memor able of my experiences in the Channel Area.

Looking along the beach wdth a critical eye as w'e set out on the wet sand, I remarked to anyone who might happen to be listening to me, that it seemed very unlikely that we should be able to progress very far on so rock-strewn a beach; but both Mrs. Dole and Mrs. Rose, who had made the trip many times, laughed good-naturedly at my apjn-ehensions and did not try in any other w^ay to reassure me. I can only say in my ow-n defense that, now that I have indeed reached the Point and have returned from it without any serious mishap, I am even more confident than I was at the start of the journey that, had I been at the wheel, we never would have reached our destination.

The rocks that lay scattered so alarmingly over the wide beach (it was low tide, of course) w'ere of every size. Some were larger than the Land Rover, and some were about the size of soccer balls. Others were of all sizes intermediate between these two. Over stretches of beach of several hundred yards there might be no rocks at all embedded in the hard, moist sand, and in these places w'e made good time; and then we might come to equally long stretches where the rocks were scattered indiscriminately and so thickly that we were able to progress forward only slowly and in wide curves and loops and sweeping arcs. During the course of these sinuosities, we ranged back and forth across the beach from the upper edge of the moist sand to the very water’s edge. Occasionally, I might almost say with discouraging frequency, we came to long, flat-lying layers of rocks of all widths that can best be described as reefs. Over these obstacles the Land Rover passed with dilTiculty and with so many jolts and bumps that it seemed a miracle that 3

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Point Conception, southern side.

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the machine was able to hold itself tofjether. The worst of these reefs, when we drew near to it, proved to be not one but two ledges that ran across the sand and into the sea side by side. These made an obstruction that was several hundred feet in width and one that was so rough that even the confi dence of our guides was shaken. The car was brought to a stop and Mrs. Dole, with her three-year-old daughter. Kate, went forward on foot to scout out the possibilities. For some minutes the issue hung in doubt. To my jaundiced eye, the thing clearly was impassable. Then Mrs. Dole waved us forward, and we bumped and jolted between knobs of rock and across deep cracks until the hard sand on the farther side of the twin reefs was reached.

And so we came at last to a place within a very long stone’s throw, or a medium rifle shot, of Government Point. The extraordinary Land Rover still was in one piece!

There were many birds of many kinds to be seen in the course of this drive along the beach. As was to be expected, gulls in large numbers were on the sand and rocks, and in the air over the shallow water; but we saw only three pelicans, and these were on the sand, "^fhey were recognized easily because they towered high above the smaller gulls that surrounded them.

Mixed with the gulls both on the beach and in the air were small flocks of at least two species of larger terns, their orange bills shining conspicuously in the bright sunlight. The usual long-legged waders, willets, godwits, and curlews, were on the sand here and there in small flocks. There were a few sandpipers, sanderlings, and plovers: but not as many of these small fry as I had expected to see. Happily, I made out the figures of two snowy plovers on the dry sand of one of the numerous canyon mouths. There seemed to be a migration of kildeers on, for we saw many of these conspicuously marked, noisey marsh and meadow birds all along the sand. The shore birds that were of the most interest to me, however, were two or three black tumstones. These small birds were beautiful and eye-catching in their sharply contrasted black ajid white plumage. The largest birds that we saw were the solitary blue herons, and of these there must have been at least a dozen.

As we approached an especially large rock that rose out of the sand at the water’s edge, I noticed that several biggish birds were standing on the “grass” covered toj). As we drew nearer, one of these l)irds jumped into the air and flew off along the line of the small surf; and lo, there was a bird of typical goose shape outlined against the sky! It was a small goose, of course; but it was a goose. A pleasanter and a more unexpected sight I could not think of at the moment. Actually, of course, it was a Black Brant.

At least two others of these birds stayed on the rock where we first liad seen them, and so we had a clear, if distant, view of them. From this time forward, we saw brant in twos and threes on the larger rocks of the water’s edge frequently. When we stopped so that Mrs. Dole could explore the shore ahead of us, a trio of these brant continued to feed on the grass on the sides of the rocks with as much unconcern as they would have done had we not been present on the beach. At one time, they fed toward us until they reached a point within forty yards of us; and then they fed slowly back to their original station. Never before had I watched feeding black brant at such close quarters and under such romantic surroundings.

While my son, Selden, photographed the area, we sat in the Land Rover and watched the bird life of the beach. The shadow of the bluff above us

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fell across the ear and the light, steady breeze suddenly became cool, almost cold; and so we moved down the beach and into the sunlight once more.

In this new position, we found ourselves looking out over the ocean, that is, we were facing due east. Facing thus, we became aware of cormorants flying low over the water in front of us. They were flying head to tail, in the usual cormorant formation, in flocks that numbered from ten to thirty individual birds; and these flocks passed us at intervals of about one minute.

They came into our sight far out over Cojo Bay, passed us at perhaps two hundred yards, and disappeared around the headland. It seemed to us that they passed the Point close in, at a distance of not more than twenty yards.

We remained in this place for an hour, or more: and during all this time the (cormorants flew by us, string after string. All flew from east to west and so, unless they were moving in a great circle, we saw each string only once.

An immense number of birds!

The trip back to the mouth of ‘Tlollister” Canyon (Arroyo El Bulito) now that we had become acquainted with the abilities of this extraordinary Land Rover and had the tracks of our outgoing trip clearly marked in the sand to follow, was uneventful. The same willets and godwits and kildeer were in the same places. on the sand, and the same black brant were on the same rocks. Only on the double reef did we have any difficulty whatever; when we attempted to climb up and on this reef from its west side, we noticed that the slant of its strata now was toward us and not away from us, as they had been when we first encountered them. This circumstance made the crossing considerably more difficult. At one place, the left front wheel came in contact with a knob that was too big for it to sunnount. Twice the motor stalled as we tried to force a passage and had to be restarted. At the third try, however, the three free wheels were able to push the stalled fourth wheel over the obstacle: and so, at last, we made it to our starting j)oint.

Some two weeks after this memorable trip, we made a second one to the Point. This time, we took the regular highway to Jalama Beach. Once there, we turned south and continued the journey on a dirt road that paralleled the railroad right-of-way. After four or five miles, we came to the lighthouse of “Point Conce|nion.” 'Fhe only unusual wild creature that we saw was a blue heron, and it was unusual only because it w'as hunting for goj)hers and other small land animals in the skraggy brush of the mesa.

Compared with our first one along the beach, this drive certainly was neither unusual or noteworthy; but the lighthouse, when we came to it, definitely was interesting and its history, as told to us by the attendants, was even more so. We learned that the light had been lit for the first time in 1856 an d that the prisms of the lenses had been ground in Paris. More than this, it was the opinion of the Coast Guardsmen that the Point, itself, at one lime in the past, had extended two miles farther out into the sea than it now did; and that the rocks of the Point still were being eroded by the waves steadily and at a measureable rate of speed. As w-e stood on the hilltop and looked down at these big waves that continually swirled around and broke over the extremity of the Point, we had the feeling that we almost could see the erosion taking place. Certainly, this is an exposed cape, one that is buffeted by every storm that moves along the coast.

As we looked down at the great, flat rock that now is taking the full force of the heavy waves, and as we thought our long thoughts, there, wonder2-1.

ful to relate, were the strings of cormorants flying, seemingly, only at arm’s length beyond the white water and trying to alight on the somewhat sheltered ledges of the cliff. String after string of them came, just as we had seen them doing at Government Point two weeks earlier. Obviously, the birds were flying hard, yet were moving forward only at moderate speed. At the moment, the wind was blowing with some strength down the coast, and so the path of these cormorants to their resting places north of the Point was directly across it. This made their landings difficult to accomplish. Bird after bird, as we watched them, made some small miscalculation and so was forced to circle widely and to attempt a second landing. Some of them were handled so roughly by the wind that, for the moment, they gave up the attempt to alight and settled on the water to the north of the rock instead.

1 would have said that the water was much too rough for them to rest on, l>ut in this I misjudged the capacity of the cormorants. Obviously, they were expert seamen. They settled lightly on the waves and rode them with the greatest ease and unconcern! As I, standing on the hilltoj), looked down on them, the waves were very big and very heavy, and the cormorants were very small indeed.

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Activity Report-Women's Projects Board llijihlijihling the annual meeting of the Women’s Projects Board held at the Fernald House on February 10, 1966, was the namin" of three new members to honorary status in the organization. Chosen for their many contributions to the community through service in the fields of historical preservation, assistance and advice to the WPB, and their friendship, the recipients were Mrs. Ernest J. Menzies (Jean Storke), Mrs. Mamie Goulet Abbot and Mr. Horace A. Sexton.

Mrs. Menzies was a member f the Santa Barbara Historical Society’s board of Directors at the time of the organization of the WPB in lO^V^, becoming a founding member of the group of women dedicated to the task of preserving and restoring the Judge Charles Fernald house. Through her wise counsel the Table of Organization and By-laws were drafted and ap proved. Although she is presently an Associate member, Mrs. Menzies gives active support and advice whenever it is needed.

Mrs. Abbott is the author of a charming book, “Santa Inez Hermosa” which tells the story of her life in Santa Ynez Mission from 1901 to 1921, as the companion-housekeeper for her uncle, Rev. Alexander Buckler, Rector of the Mission. During these years, restoration of the Mission was begun.

Mr. Horace Sexton, son of Joseph and Lucy Foster Sexton, prominent pioneers of early Santa Barbara and Goleta Valley, has been a true friend to the WPB. He has been ready at a moments notice on many occasions, to come down and guide visitors through the Trussell-Winchester Adobe, a place which he knows well, as he knew Dr. Robert F. Winchester intimately.

His memories of the Winchester family have enriched the hours of every person who has been fortunate enough to share a Sunday afternoon with Mr. Sexton as a “staffer.”

New members of the active board who were welcomed were Mmes.

Park Darlington. Edwin Deuter, Edwin M. Egan, Robert Earl Eyre, George G. Gallon. Claud F. Harmon, William W. Helmbold, Melville Sahyun and Jerome Waldref.

New Associate members (in addition to those named in the Winter 1966 issue) were Mmes. Edward Hallor, Don MacGillivray, Glen Mosher, Frederick Smith, John Allan St. John, Gordon Williams and Miss Elizabeth Buell. Former members of the active board wTo have become Associates are Mmes. Edward Bouton. Charles Harper, Gene Harris, Ruth Mayer, Howard Smith. Lawrence E. Wood and Miss Mary M. Chrisman.

Welcomed also was Dr. Hilmar 0. Koefod, President of the Board of Directors of the Santa Barbara Historical Society, who was congratulated on his recent honor as the recij)ient of an award of merit at the annual nition of his outmeeting of the California Historical Society, given in reco standing leadership as president of the Santa Barbara Historical Society.

Installed as officers fur the coming year were Mmes. George H. Finley, who began her second term as chairman; James T. Lindsey, first vice chairman; Eeo McMahon, second vice <diairman; John Vesey, corresponding secretary; James Dazey, treasurer; and Robert Janda, recording secretary.

On the evening of February H>, Mr. and Mrs. George H. Finley and Mr. and Mrs. Lloyd Wheeler were hosts at the Fernald House at a traditional 26

New England buffet supper. Invited to sliare the festivities were members of the active j)rojects board, new board members and their husbands. Also invited were Dr. and Mrs. Robert J. Ottoboni. Messrs, and Mmes. Ernest Menzies, W. Edwin Gledhill and Henry Griffith, and Mrs. Ralph Young. A patriotic color scheme was used in recognition of the two national holidays, the birthdays of Presidents Washington and Lincoln.

Four special lours were arranged in March, with members of the WPB serving at hostesses at the Trusseil-Winchester adobe and the Fernald House.

On Saturday, March 5, 30 members of the Traveieers Club from Vancouver.

British Columbia, visited these historical sites. In celebration of Girl Scout week, 30 girls from Mt. Carmel and Montecito Union school, with their leader. Mrs. Kenneth Ehnes, spent an enjoyable morning in llie 100-year-old homes. On March 15, 37 members of Cordon's Garden tours from San Francisco, slopped for a visit. March 17 was ihe day chosen by Miss Patti Rocco’s fourlh grade students from La Patera School for a morning lour.

Members of the projects board who assisted with the tours were Mmes.

Robert Janda. Claud Harmon, James Lindsey. Andrew Frank Lane. Jr., Margaret Powell, Vincent Grocott, John Locklin, Gene Harris and George

Finley.

On June 16, 17 and 18, the Conference of California Historical Societies will conveTie al the Mira Mar Hotel in Montecito, with Museum Director W. Edwin Gledhill and Mrs. Gledhill as hosts. Members of the WPB have been invited to assist with a walking lour of old adobes in the Pueblo Viejo area, and with transportation. Mrs. John Locklin will be coordinator for these activities. Refreshments will be served at the Fernald House at the end of the walking tour for the guests.

“Old Spanish Days” Fiesta will come early this year, August 3 to 6, so the date for the projects committee's annual Casa tour will be July 24, to avoid conflict. Mrs. Locklin will again serve as the general chairman for this fund-raising event.

At the first regular meeting of the new year. March 10, Mrs. Dean Hobbs Blanchard and Mrs. Russell E. Curry were welcomed to the active

board.

The homes are open for visitors every Sunday afternoon from 1:30 to 4:30 |).m., so to our friends everywhere, we extend a cordial invitation to come and see our growing collection of Victorian memorabilia. Our hostesses will be happy to show you through and tell you about the histories of the houses and the exhibits.

WiLBERTA M. Finley

Anniversary of New Museum Celebrated A gala celebration in recognition of the first anniversary of the dedi cation of the new Historical Society Museum building was held on Sunday evening, February 27, 1666, by the Board of Directors of the Society. Cochairmen for the event were Mrs. Wilson Forbes and Mrs. Godwin Pelissero, members of the Board, and Miss Rosario Andrea Curletti, the general con sultant for the early S[)anish California menu and editor of the unusual 27

souvenir booklet, “Recuerdo” which combined the profiram^ menu, and rare historical information—the gift of Mr. and Mrs. Wilson I’orbes. Assisting were representatives of the Women’s Projects Board, Mmes. George H. Finley, Lloyd Wheeler, James Boyce and Hamilton P. Greenough.

Following a reception in the American Room at 5:30 p.m., guests were seated in the Western Room to hear an address by the Reverend Stanislaus Altman. O.F.M., Pastor of Saint Barbara’s Parish, Old Mission Santa Barbara Whither Our Culture?” Appropriately, the massive carved gold Chinese altar in the Chinese Room formed a backdrop for the speaker, blending the cultures of two of California’s early-day peoples. The Invocation was given by The Reverend William 'I'urkington, O.H.C. Tables for eight had been placed in the large Spanish Room. These were covered with pink cloths, and on each was a tall candle surrounded by low bouquets of wild yellow mustard, pale lavender wild radish, deep |)urple lupin and other wild flowers, picked from the Montecito hillsides by Mrs. Forbes and Mrs. Greenough for the occasion. Another surprise for the guests came from the green salad—“ensalada de Icchuga”—for the lettuce greens were a mixture of wild plants (among them the lowly but tasty “miner’s lettuce”) also freshly picked by the Mmes. Forbes and Greenough.

Superb Beaulieu wines were enjoyed, through tlie kindness of the Marquis and Marquise de Pins and their son-in-law and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Walter Sullivan, and delightful Spanish brandy, the gracious gift of John Jordano, Jr., a member of the Board of Directors of the Society, Strolling Spattish musicians ])rovided a fiesta atmos|)here—through the generosity of Paul G. Sweetser. secretary of the Board of Directors, and founding presidetit of the Santa Barbara Historical Society. Adding a gay note of color were the Ticktockers of the National Charities League, six lovely sills dressed in Mexican costumes, who assisted with the table service.

GIFTS l)r. Hiliiiar 0. Koffod Mrs. John J. Lawrc'iice Mrs. Marcel Le romle

Mr. Elmer Awl Mr. N. R. Baker .Mr. Edward Brooks Mrs. KeUirah Davis Campbell Mrs. Cliarles C. Clapp, Sr. Mr. Elbert S. Conner Mrs. Wilbur C. Cook Miss Minerva Cross Miss Mayhelle Davis Miss Marian de Cruelty Mr. James Fagan Mrs. Dorothy Feiizi Atr. Wilbur Filiippini Mr. M. F, Caver Mr. George Ciovunola Afr. and Airs. W. Edwin Cledhill Air. Edward W. Jones Airs. Willis Frank Kelly Air. and .Mrs. Floyd D. Kenney Commander Dudley Jordan Kiernulff Mrs. William Kirkhrido Air. Tom KhwelamI

Miss Elizalx'lli I.inquest Mr. Howuril H. McCaiits Mr.«. Frank H, Malinowski Mrs. V. N. Niilever Mr. George J. O'Hrien Mr. and Mrs. Godwin Pelissero Mrs. Horace F. Pierce The Esiate <if Francis Pri<re Ntr. Leiglilon Rollins .‘^aiUa Barbara News-Press Library .Santa Bariiara I’liblic. Lilsrary Miss Doris Scliniiedell The Estate of Mrs. Samuel Slanwood Mr. L. T. Stevens .Mr. Walker A. Tompkins .Mr. Healey Tondel Mi.ss Maria Triissell .Mr. .Morris Wills Mr. Garrell Van Horne n 2u

SANTA BARBARA HISTORICAL SOCIETY

OFFICERS Presideni First Vice President...

Second Vice President.

Dr. Hilmar 0. Koefod Edward Selden Spaulding Mrs. Wilson Forbes

Secretary Treasurer Past President

Paul G. Sweelser Mrs. Henry Griffiths Thomas J. McDerniott

DIRECTORS Mrs. Charles H. Cannon Rev. Virgil Cordano John D. Gill Mrs. W. Edwin Gledhill Yale B. Griffith

John Jordano, Jr. Mrs. Godwin Pelissero Lockwood Tower Garrett Van Horne

Dr. Irving N. Wills Jolm Gal vin* Thomas M. Storke*

Hugh J. Weldon

● Honorary Directors

Elmer H. Wiiittaker

W. Edwin Gledhill....

Museum Director

Mrs. Henry Griffiths.

Wilherta M. Finley...

Executive Secretary Chairman, Women’s Projects Board

NEW MEMBERS ACTIVE Mr. N. R. Baker Mr. and Mrs. Drew T. Baldwin

Mrs. William Helmhold Mrs. Monica F. Kramer Mr. and Mrs. S. A. Leshin Mrs. Mary Pike Santa Barbara City College

Mrs. Edwin Deuter Mrs. Edward M. Egan Col. and Mrs. George Garlon

Mr. Healey Tondel Mrs. Jerome Waldref

SUSTAINING Dr. Eric H. Boehm Dr. and Mrs. John P. Evans Dr. and Mrs. Richard Evans Mr. Harry Graybill Mr. and .Mrs. Richard Mohr

HISTORICAL SOCIETY MEMBERSHIP Classes of membership: Benefactor, $100; Patron, $25; Contributing, $15; Sustaining, $10; Active, $7.50; Student, $5. Dues are tax deductible.

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