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C O U T U R E
“Dutch designer van Herpen’s elevenpiece collection featured two 3D printed ensembles. One is an elaborate skirt and cape created in collaboration with artist, architect, designer and professor Neri Oxman from MIT’s Media Lab, and 3D printed by Stratasys. “The 3D printed skirt and cape were produced using Stratasys’ Objet Connex multimaterial 3D printing technology, which allows a variety of material properties to be printed in a single build. This allowed both hard and soft materials to be incorporated within the design, crucial to the movement and texture of the piece. “The ability to vary softness and elasticity inspired us to design a “second skin” for the body acting as armor-in-motion; in this way we were able to design not only the garment’s form but also its motion,” explains Oxman. “The incredible possibilities afforded by these new technologies allowed us to reinterpret the tradition of couture as “tech-couture” where delicate hand-made embroidery and needlework is replaced by code….” Iris van Herpen put on a show that was electrifying in the literal sense. “Inspired by a childhood dream, a desire to understand control and re-create lightning,” the Dutch designer made a visual impact with a collection, called Voltage, that featured a living sculpture standing in the center of the room with what looked like purple lightning passing through her body. Renowned for her use of innovational techniques, van Herpen produced what she referred to as “the first 3-D-printed flexible dresses.” These intricately designed pieces had a life of their own, making movements independent of the models’ bodies. Truly remarkable was a voluminous minidress
matched with a supersize wrap, which formed a trompe l’oeil seashell armor. More wearable black little dresses from layers of a partly see-though knitted fabric added a fresh note. Among members of the fashion world, Iris van Herpen is known for pushing the boundaries of Haute Couture. On January 23rd she showed for the second time as an official guest of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, and once again wowed the audience. Models stepped out in “Fang” shoes with ten sharp teeth to each foot – the product of van Herpen’s fifth successful collaboration with United Nude. The shape of the wedge is so complex that each one consists of fiberglass and carbon fiber, made in a slow molding process. It is not yet certain whether these shoes will come to market as a limited edition, as was the case with previous Iris van Herpen x United Nude designs, but it is worth keeping an eye out for them. Iris van Herpen’s designs demonstrate fashion as art. Her creations are clear artistic statements through which women can express their unique character. It is no surprise that Bjork and Lady Gaga are part of her devoted clientele. Her current collection has been inspired by microscopic organisms. The garments are made with her own signature materials, fused with highly detailed craftsmanship and innovative techniques, such as 3D printing. Her style’s avantgarde spirit combines raw and technologicallyproduced materials, displaying her attraction to radical fabrics, such as leather, synthetic boat rigging, Plexiglas and the whalebones from children’s umbrellas. Her exceptional blends create a sculptured effect and have an astonishing visual impact.
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