OK!EXTRA Travel
When in Bruges Left: Boats on the historic canal, and below: Colin Farrell
I
t’s impossible not to think of Colin Farrell when you’re in Bruges. In the film of the city’s name, his character Ray – a hit man sent to lie low there – famously thought Bruges was hell. But he was totally wrong. It is heavenly. We had desperately wanted to visit ever since we watched the brilliant black comedy with the beautiful Bruges backdrop. And we weren’t disappointed when we saw the Belgian town in real life The place is a fairytale – a romantic city of medieval squares and canals crisscrossed by cobbled streets.
Where to stay Bruges has a range of hotels for every pocket, but we were glad we had picked the central Grand Hotel Casselbergh. The setting is gorgeous, right over the canal, and the rooms sumptuously furnished with velvet chairs and beds you can sink right into. And the breakfast was perfect for soaking up vast quantities of beer consumed most nights during our stay (it would be 30
CULTURE, CHIPS AND COPIOUS AMOUNTS OF BEER – WHAT’S NOT TO LOVE ABOUT BELGIUM’S CUTEST TOWN?
rude not to). The vast hot and cold buffet of fruit, meats, cheeses and breads set us up perfectly for the day.
Below: A room at the Grand Hotel Casselbergh and below right: the Belfry
Culture fix It’s easy enough to walk round the historic centre but there are two other ways to see the sights, which make exploring that bit more special. Horse and carts clip-clop around virtually traffic-free streets but we couldn’t resist taking a canal tour on one of the tiny boats that drift down the waterways. About 20 of us took our positions on the boat and set off on the half-hour trip under tiny bridges – one so low we all felt the need to duck. Our guide reeled off fascinating facts about the buildings we passed in four languages. If we’d been paying proper attention instead of gazing at the stunning
scenery, we’d now be able to say the oldest bar in Bruges is down that street and there’s a Michelangelo sculpture in the church over there in German, French and Dutch. We left the boat not far from the Belfry – the landmark medieval tower on Markt Square, which featured prominently in the movie In Bruges. Colin Farrell’s character sulkily refused to go up it, but he didn’t know what he was missing. We took a deep breath and climbed up the narrow, steep staircase of 366 steps to the top of the 83-metre-high building. Though we were out of puff when we made it, we didn’t meet a grizzly end like some of the stars of the film – and the view across Bruges was stunning.
Chill time For a gentler adventure, we decided to visit the last brewery in Bruges, De Halve Maan, to see how Belgians make their brew. The fascinating 45-minute tour culminated in a tasting session and a panoramic view of the town – fabulous on both counts. We still wanted to see the old pub that our canal guide had mentioned so we wandered down the way he had pointed and found the tiny Café Vliddinghe down a poky alleyway. The pub dates back to 1515 and its authentic Flemish interior is a work of art in dark wood. But it is no museum. While we were there the large tables were comfortably shared by old men, families with children and mums with babies. Everything about Bruges is laid-back and easy – even the journey there and back is a breeze.
Eat, drink and be merry After all that effort, we needed some sustenance. And, when in Bruges, the food to eat is mussels and fries.
There are cheap eats from vendors on Markt Square itself, but we had been recommended Restaurant Breydel-De-Coninck nearby. Steaming mussels in vast cast-iron pots were brought to our table, baked in white wine or fried with garlic. They were served with a tray of perfect golden fries and mayonnaise – very moreish. Bellies full, it was time for drink. We sought out the bar with the biggest list of beers – t’ Brugs Beertje, just off the main shopping street. The barman handed us a menu as we walked in. Just as we were about to protest that we’d already eaten, we noticed that it was a BEER menu. There were 13 pages of more than 300 beers – and virtually every one served in their own individually-designed glass. We tried Delirium Tremens – with little pink elephants on the glass – and Kwak, which came in a large test tube shaped glass stood on a wooden stand, like a scientific experiment. All the beers were stronger than their British cousins – the weakest was 5.8 per cent. But we’ll be seeking out Kwak again. Colin Farrell’s Ray may have been desperate to escape Bruges – but he WAS a
hit man, after all. And 3million tourists can’t wait to get there every year. We’re with them.
Get there We travelled with DER (dertour.co.uk; 0207 290 1111). Packages to Bruges start from £219 per person for two nights including Eurostar. Packages for the Grand Hotel Casselbergh start from £289 per person. REPORT BY SANDRA SHENNAN, EDITED BY ELLA BUCHAM PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOTOLIBRARY.COM
Where is Bruges?
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