Sandra Luks Fashion and Accessories Portfolio - RUDE 2020

LUKS PORTFOLIO

SANDRA

LUKS Estonian Academy of Arts Faculty of Design Fashion Design BA

Tallinn 2020

DESIGNER’S STATEMENT

"IF LUKS COULD KILL..."

I am a hustle-lover, bold, loud and rude. The latter being something that I attempt to transform into meaning anything other than what we know as ‘’rude’’. In my world, it is both rad, awesome, sassy and epic. I am a former medical student turned fashion designer on a path to rewrite her self-description. My apparel design aesthetic is simple, polished, minimal but with a twist, bending the rules of what ‘‘the normal’’ and ‘‘the usual’’ should be.

My real passion lies in leather accessories where I use my strengths in construction, precision, attention to detail and combine it with bold, unexpected materials and colors. Inspired by the action, richness, bravado but also frivolity of a big city life, I try to bring suppressed, salacious and sometimes even obscene scenarios and characteristics into daylight making them normal and something to embrace rather than hide. My accessories’ designs are sometimes provocative, yet never compromising between practicality and /luks/ (looks). They are so fabulous, it’s almost rude!

This portfolio aims to show the diversity of my skills learned during the last 4 years - from embracing and working with experimental materials, designing ready-to-wear and finally finding passion and focusing on leather accessories. My versatility and work experience in the fashion industry makes me a valuable addition to any creative team that is not afraid of new horizons and wild ideas.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

/ ˈ LUKS/ LOOKS

Experimental

Ready

Rude

OTHER WORLDLY “OTHERWORLDLY” is a post-apocalyptic world where experimental

materials, dark fantasies, raging forms, cyber-punk and longing for the universe and eternal life meet. Twelve students from the Estonian Academy of Arts combined with two intense weeks at school sleeplessly writhing amongst hundreds of meters of plastic pipes and waste — this is how robust and stubborn raw materials metamorphosed into graceful and utopic fashion creations that test the boundaries and warp standards.

The other-worldly forms came to life under the direction of the renowned fashion designer Liisi Eesmaa during a course on experimental forms and shapes. The goal was to inspire the students and encourage them to think outside the boundaries of this world.

It is necessary to frolic with ideas and experiment with materials and build objects that have nothing to do with the practical world, like a quick jaunt into utopia right before diving into the world of practical fashion design.

The sculptural costume in the photos contains about 140 metres of plastic pipes, which is just 30m less than the 170m-high platform of the famous Tallinn TV Tower, where the outfit was displayed as part of an exhibition. In addition to the main piece, headwear and decorative spectacles complement the full look.

Creative advisor: Liisi Eesmaa

Model: Erika Fenenko (Living Models) MUAH: Nele Pandis Photographer: Riina Varol

#ÄLL The collection #äll (English “crown”) represents the integration of tradition, modern cuts and technology. The architectural

forms of accessories are created using plywood and laser technique. combined with weaving yarns on the crown in the shape of an eight-pointED star, an important symbol in Estonian ethnic background, giving good luck and protecting from danger, IS CREATED. IT HAS BEEN USED A LOT IN ETHNIC CLOTHING PATTERNS AND ON EVERYDAY ITEMS. The collection is inspired by the ceiling crowns made from straw that are characteristic to Estonian heritage during Christmas.

THE ARCHITECTURAL MITTENS REPRESENT THE STRUGGLE OF A CULTURE EXISTING BETWEEN BORDERS, THE ONE OF MY ANCESTORS FROM SETUMAA. THE UNCERTAINTY OF SAFE AND PROSPEROUS FUTURE CAN BE INHIBITING, BUT STRONG SENSE OF BELONGING AND PRIDE IN HERITAGE LEAVES AN UNBREAKABLE BOND AND A LASTING LEGACY. Some of the elements such as long sleeves are also inspired by Setumaa folk clothing.

Creative advisor: Piret Puppart

Model: Ann Müürsepp (NASS Models) MUAH: Mari-Ly Kapp Photographer: Mark Raidpere

ν The Neutrino

A fashion project using unconventional materials led by a renowned illustrator and fashion designer Anu Samarüütel-Long.

This 3D-costume named

ν was inspired by these mysterious

subatomic particles and the fabric of space-time. Each second,

billions of neutrinos pass through our body without reacting with anything on their way and not even a lightyear of lead can slow them down. Coming from the farthest places in the cosmos, this small particle is extremely difficult to detect. As a material, 2D chicken wire served as a representation of the invisible fabric of space-time that could be morphed by objects with mass just as it happens in space.

The project was displayed at a one-day flash-exhibition under the mentorship of an established London based art director Helen Sirp.

Creative advisors: Anu Samarüütel-Long, Helen Sirp

Model: Merit Väits (Star System) Photographer 1: Kristin Kaur (opposite page, close-up) Photographer 2: Sandra Luks

Neutrino in a hydrogen bubble chamber (photo by argonne national laboratory) The world’s first neutrino observation in a hydrogen bubble chamber.

It was found Nov. 13, 1970, on this photograph from the Zero Gradient Synchrotron’s 12-foot bubble chamber. The invisible neutrino strikes a proton where three particle tracks originate (lower right). The neutrino turns into a mu-meson, the long center track (extending up and left). The short track is the proton. The third track (extending down and left) is a pi-meson created by the collision.

Super-Kamiokande in Japan - world’s largest water Cherenkov detector

Neutrinos, they are very small.

They have no charge and have no mass And do not interact at all.

The earth is just a silly ball To them, through which they simply pass, Like dustmaids down a drafty hall Or photons through a sheet of glass.

They snub the most exquisite gas, Ignore the most substantial wall, Cold-shoulder steel and sounding brass, Insult the stallion in his stall, And, scorning barriers of class, Infiltrate you and me! Like tall And painless guillotines, they fall Down through our heads into the grass.

At night, they enter at Nepal And pierce the lover and his lass From underneath the bed - you call It wonderful; I call it crass.

-john updike (1960)

UGH?!

A collaborative project titled “Skins and Shells” with masters

of fashion design in the Estonian Academy of Arts and Hong Kong Polytechnic University.

During the project, students in teams of 2-3 created wearable sculptural outfitS out of traditional Chinese wooden fans. All

together 11 conceptual masterpieces were made using different techniques. The artpieces were on display in PolyU in June 2018 and had their own exhibition named “Skins and Shells” during Tallinn Design Festival in September 2018.

The art piece “UGH?!” was inspired by the incredible resilience, power and mystery of one of the most feared bugs in nature a cockroach. Trying to explore the world of these unbelievably gross beings more closely, a new viewpoint emerged and showed us the incredible diversity and unexpected beauty of the cockroaches. A true kafkaesque essence.

Romantic and fragile Chinese fans were transformed into a perfectly symmetrical, delicate yet bold armor that protects the beautiful holographic colour flashing through the cracks symbolizing the unexpected allure in these mysterious creatures.

Creative advisors: Liisi Eesmaa, Piret Puppart, Basia Szkutnicka Co-designers: Shao Li (Tangle), Sin Ka Yiu (Carol)

Model: Ingrid T Photographer 1: Sandra Luks (opposite page) Photographer 2: Nick D (Spitgan Magazine)

SYMMETRY

RESILIENCE

COVERS

ANTLERS LAYERS

MACRO SHELL

Junji Ito

Ivo’s girl ‘‘Ivo’s girl’’ was designed in collaboration with an Estonian premium womenswear brand Ivo Nikkolo.

Ivo Nikkolo offers original and practical design combining untraditional classics with true elegance. The collections are targeted for a confident, successful woman who is not afraid to stand out from the crowd and has high demands for Estonian design and quality.

Ivo Nikkolo’s design is original with minimalistic vibes and interesting detailing. True disrupted elegance. comibing contrasts and embracing bold styling by blending the boundaries between masculine and feminine, formal and casual, this collection was inspired by andy warhol’s muse, the 60’s IT-girl Edie Sedgwick aka the factory girl.

Hints of classical men’s tailoring can be found in the choice of materials and detailing.

Creative advisor: Piret Puppart

Technical advisor: Margarita Teeääre, , Agne Talu-Vürmer

ivonikkolo.andmorefashion.com

Model: Evelina Säkk MUAH: Mari-ly Kapp Photographer 1: Sandra Luks (opposite page) Photographer 2: Oliver Moosus

ceo xx The outerwear collection was designed as a ready-to-wear project for a target group of our choosing. “ceo xx” is a continuation to “ivo’s girl”.

embodying an ensemble of elegance, power and strength of the modern wonder woman - a bold and established career woman who values and supports local design and entrepreneurshipthis collection has been designed with mostly natural materials in mind. as an element of surprise, the final product was updated with a panel of leather-scraps. this kind of embellishing offers a possibility to use leftovers from the leather accessories’ production in a creative and unique way. The current panel has a mix of black and blueish tones that form a very subtle letter “S” for the author’s initial and also showing potential for unlimited ways of customization. this particular collection happened to become my first of many dips into the world of leather.

Creative advisor: Marve Kreek

Technical advisor: Margarita Teeääre, Agne Talu-Vürmer

Model: Evelina Säkk MUAH: Mari-Ly Kapp Photographer 1: Sandra Luks (opposite page) Photographer 2: Oliver Moosus

INL

RE

WRITE YOUR SELF-DESCRIPTION “you have to learn to love yourself before you can allow someone else to DO IT as well” Daniel sloss

p.4.

“If I play you a piece of music, that’s when you can truly look inside me” Hans Zimmer

A course in accessories design during the 3rd year in the Art Academy was my first real contact with leather craftsmanship that continued to lead my path in the design world. This particuar bag titled “P.4. - The Perfect 4th” was created as a part of a group collection titled V.7 P.1 inspired by music.

Music offers people exactly what they want and need - be it a feeling of escape or relaxation, excitement or anticipation. Intrigued by the human thirst for music and people’s abilities to create sound and melody with the most unmusical of items, the bag is designed to have a multipurpose effect.

A bucket-shaped bag is surrounded by 200 double-sided fringes twisted to make an imitation of a soundwave. The bag creates a rustling noise when shaken and can act as a musical Instrument on its own.

Creative advisor: Karin Kallas

Technical advisor: Sirle Rohusaar

Model: Evelina Säkk MUAH: Mari-Ly Kapp Photographer: Oliver Moosus

SHOE NR. 1 When you can’t satisfy a woman yourself, there are shoes. When you want to make a woman happy, there are shoes. When you want to be crushed like a bug - there’s a cheaper solution than therapy, and that’s buying the woman some shoes!

In the making of these glorious “creatures” I was inspired by roaches, and I am not talking about trashy men. Or maybe I am? The strong armor or a flashy bright shell only takes a step with a killer shoe and it’s annoying self is crushed. And sometimes the crushing can come from someone who is so pure and innocent that you never saw it coming. in retrospect, this project unknowingly served as a prequel to the final collection that further goes to introduce the play of power, or more precicely - foot fetish. one small shoe for a woman, one giant check for mankind!

Creative advisor: Marika Jylhä

Technical advisor: Sirle Rohusaar

Model: Lara Johanna Luks Photographer: Sandra Luks

RUDE Plain is boring!

Bright is too much!

Simple is not enough!

I believe we consist of multiple identities and a number of personalities.

But often people choose to only show one side of them and hide the other. Or even fake a new face. We should understand that we cannot bury our true selves under a pile of socially acceptable identities forever.

We need to learn to take pride in being barefoot before trying to walk in someone else’s 6-inch heels.

There is a difference between keeping things private and keeping them hidden. Influenced by the courage of queer people in 1960s in Harlem and frustrated by the judgement from the privileged and spiteful, I went on to explore the secret-ish underground BDSM scene in NYC. I found a world where inhibitions were erased and opposites merged - like midnight actors in the shape of powerful Wall Street bankers suddenly becoming powerless - a place where shame had no place unless asked for.

I will always advocate taking pride in being exactly who you are if you are not hurting anybody. Your other side you have chosen to hide away and be ashamed of because of the opinions of others, your secret fetish, your unsurfaced beauty is what actually makes you unique and desirable.

Choose to be twisted!

Be so fabulous, that it’s almost rude!

BE RUDE! Creative advisor: Piret Puppart

Model: Ann Müürsepp (NASS Models) MUAH: Mari-Ly Kapp Photographer: Sandra Luks

“So I happened to go on a date with this one guy and we were having drinks and appetizers at the bar as per usual. Knowing it would probably be a short-lived affair, given I was on a trip, made it even more exciting. Everything was going well and by the second drink I was ready to leave and have his babies. We kept the conversation going and at one point I realize he is looking under the bar. He notices and begins to tell me: ‘‘Oh, I feel like I need to tell you something. I have a foot fetish.” And at this particular moment in time, March 29th 2018, 10.48pm EST, I knew. When I felt my eyebrows lift up in amazement opposed to frowning in disgust, I felt powerful. I felt like a goddess a word not used to describe me. Ever. All I ever thought of myself was someone living to make sure everyone else is happy and will therefore think I was worthy. I had a serious case of approval addiction. But this time I felt like I was in power to decide and something triggered in me when he said those words. And it was only the beginning. At his place, he turns to me and asks me something that would change my life: “If I asked you to wear a GoPro and film your feet up in the air in my face, would you do it? I would pay you, of course!” And that is how in a few months I quit my corporate job, made myself into a brand and became a professional Goddess.”

Sophie

CV SANDRA LUKS May 4th 1990 sandra.luks@gmail.com Full resume: https://www.linkedin.com/in/sandra-luks/

EDUCATION Estonian Academy of Arts 2015 - 2020, fashion design Tallinn University of Applied Sciences 2013 - 2017, resource management of clothing and textiles, cum laude Tartu Vocational Education Centre 2012 - 2014, tailoring Tartu University 2009 - 2013, medicine, not graduated

WORK EXPERIENCE Anthony Luciano LLC - New York City Design and manufacturng assistant, 2018 October – 2019 May 1Atelier LLC - New York City Product management and marketing intern, 2018 May – Septemper Baltika Group (Baltman), baltman.andmorefashion.com Assistant designer, 2015 June – 2017 August Baltika Group (Menswear brands) Assistant buyer, 2015 April – June Kaubamaja LTD (Men’s Department) Customer service specialist, 2014 A Tailor’s Studio Tailor, 2012 – 2014

PROJECTS AND INTERNSHIPS Visual Design Communication project in Hong Kong – 2018 Exhibition “Smock and Apron” in Tallinn TV Tower – 2017 Exhibition “Unworldly” in Tallinn TV Tower – 2016 Design internship at Bastion (bastion.andmorefashion.com) – 2014 Production internship at Sangar LTD – 2013 Combined Education and Entrepreneurship Program (Baltic Training Program) – 2012

FASHION SHOWS Baltika Group fashion show SS/2017, AW/2016, SS/2016 - style and design assistant Tallinn Fashion Week SS/2017 - opening show participant Riga Fashion Week AW/2016 - style and design assistant for Baltman Tallinn Fashion Week AW/2016 - style and design assistant Riga Fashion Week SS/2014 - backstage assistant Fashion Performance Dance 2014 - Collection TRomb - participant

LANGUAGES Estonian - native English - fluent Russian - good Italian - elementary

COMPUTER SKILLS Adobe CC (Photoshop, Illustrator, InDesign) CorelDraw Graphics Suite MS Office (Outlook, Word, Excel) Kaledo Style Navision PDM 3D Laser Printer

OTHER INTERESTS astronomy photography woodworking

LUKS LOVE Piret Puppart Anu Ojavee Margarita Teeääre Agne Talu-Vürmer Ann Müürsepp Karl-Christoph Rebane Ermo Tambla Erika Luks Liis Jaks Friederike Luise Berg Noa Greenspan Anthony Luciano