Good Eats 2024

Dishing Out More

The impact of higher wages on OC’s eateries

New Kids on the Block

South Orange County culinary scene expands

aPizza Doho and Glasspar +

Welcome to the second edition of South OC Good Eats!

The food scene in South Orange County is a standout in Southern California, and we’re celebrating some highlights. Some may be places you’ve certainly heard of and helmed by award-winning chefs. We’ll provide insight into what makes them great. Some others may be under the radar and could open your eyes to something new. From the great side, we profile one of the best chefs — Rob Wilson with Glasspar — in our latest “Best of” awards. We learn what shaped his career and his menu. We talk with aPizza Doho’s Marcos Costas, who tells us a little about his pies and the origins of the memorable name.

Plus, we give a rundown of all the newest local eateries to add to your dining-out options. Want to know the state of the restaurant business in the OC? We share that, too. We hope this section opens your eyes and fills your stomach with the best food South Orange County has to offer. Dig in!

Dishing Out More

The impact of higher wages on OC’s eateries

By Jimmy Magahern

In the fast-food industry, Orange County is king. Iconic chains like Taco Bell, In-N-Out Burger and Del Taco got their starts in the region, and other major players like Chipotle and El Pollo Loco now call the OC home. Even the McDonald brothers started their empire with a drive-in spot in nearby San Bernardino.

Today, nearly 138,000 people in OC are employed in fast-casual restaurant chains, including 22,000 by chains headquartered locally.

So the passage of AB 1228, which raised the minimum wage at fast-casual restaurant chains from $16 to $20 an hour and went into effect on April 1, is no small deal here. The jury’s still out on how much the change will actually benefit workers: Chipotle and El Pollo Loco have already begun using robot helpers to automate food

prep processes and cut back on labor, and interactive kiosks have become standard equipment in many fast-casual restaurants to facilitate ordering without the need of a human staffer.

But the statewide wage increase will affect more than just fast-food chains, described as any limited-service chains with more than 60 units nationwide. Full-service, nonchain restaurants, which have typically compensated workers above the old minimum wage, may now face increased wage demands from their staff as workers

become aware of the higher wages in the fast-food sector. Restaurant owners fear that the change could lead to a situation where they need to raise their wages to retain staff, thereby increasing their operational costs.

“This is the discussion everyone is having right now in the restaurant business here,” said Jorge Luhan II, owner of Luciana’s Ristorante in Dana Point, which recently celebrated its 40th anniversary. “It’s not just fast food. It becomes the new minimum threshold for every restaurant in Cal-

ifornia. So now, if somebody’s coming into my restaurant and wants a dishwasher job, that dishwasher is no longer minimum at $16, you’re now at $20. So now you’ve just added a huge labor cost to your bottom line. Now you’re looking at that and saying, ‘Well, how much can I really charge? What’s the cost increase and what’s the customer willing to pay?’ There’s an issue there, and we’re already starting to see that creep up.”

See DISHING OUT on page 14

At the same time, another new state law, SB 478, is putting pressure on restaurants not to add extraneous fees and unspecified “surcharges” to bills for services. Heralded as a “price transparency law” to provide consumers clear and honest communication about the charges added to bills, the law is already getting pushback from the California Restaurant Association before it goes into effect on July 1.

“Courts have consistently concluded that service fees are permissible under the Consumer Legal Remedies Act as long as they are properly disclosed on restaurant menus,” said Matthew Sutton, CRA’s senior vice president of government affairs and public policy in a statement. “CRA strenuously disagrees with the AG’s expansive interpretation of the law to outlaw restaurant service fees.”

The two laws put OC restaurants between a rock and a hard place, where they’re compelled to increase wages to employees but can’t pass the cost on to guests through added fees — arguably a good thing for both consumers and workers, but an added challenge to restaurants still recovering from the COVID-19-era shutdowns and restricted operations.

Luhan said he already sees other restauranteurs adding fees for things like credit card use to their bills to offset the increased labor costs. “Many are adding anywhere from 2.7% to 3.5% to process a credit card,” he said. “Now, if you’re not allowed to do that, the restaurant has to find ways to cut costs in their bottom line. And that’s going to be extremely difficult.”

“I feel like it’s the restaurant’s responsibility to figure that out,” said Trevor Baird, owner of Trevor’s at the Tracks at the historic San Juan Capistrano train depot, which benefits from its unique location as an experienceable dining locale.

“We’ve never been a place to add on the bottom of the receipt that there’s a 2% charge for kitchen staff or whatever. As a diner, I’d want to know what I’m in for on the front end.”

Nevertheless, Baird acknowledged that the new minimum wage baseline will affect every restaurant in California, with increased operational costs needing to be recouped in some areas.

“You’re going to see the trickle-down effect with other things. So everything’s going to kind of ratchet up. It’s going to take more money to get these products to customers, and we’re going to have to share that expense with everyone.”

Ironically, Baird and Luhan see a hidden opportunity for full-service mom-and-pop restaurants like theirs in the new minimum wage law for the fast-food sector. As fast-casual restaurant chains are forced to raise prices, customers are reevaluating the cost benefits of choosing fast food over fine dining.

“As fast food goes up, people are thinking, “If I’m going to spend $20, $30 at a McDonald’s or at a Chipotle, for maybe 20% more, I can go to a formal fine dining restaurant, and sit down with an award-winning wine list, and get a real experience,” Luhan said. “I think we’re seeing the pendulum swinging back to the independents, which are more mobile, quicker-thinking, and can

respond to changing public attitudes in a way that corporate chains cannot.”

Both restaurateurs anticipate a return to people seeking a real dining experience — “like the ’70s and ’80s, where the independents really took off,” Luhan said — and feel their restaurants offer things the average Taco Bell, In-N-Out Burger or Del Taco can’t deliver.

“I’m really hoping that people will realize the value behind full-service dining,” Baird said. “Because that’s what we are, and if we charge a little bit more for that vodka soda and that burger, I’m hoping they understand. We’re trying to offer more of an experience for people, beyond just filling their bellies.”

His restaurant’s not alone, he said. Fast food may have built these cities, and QSR, or quick-service restaurants stressing takeout and drive-thru options, may be the new model dominating the OC. But destination dining is making a comeback here.

“San Clemente, Dana Point and San Juan Capistrano are all going through a renaissance right now, and we’re starting to

see this infrastructure of really cool restaurants finally taking off,” Baird said.

“They’re more mom-and-pop and cooler, more unique brands that are taking notes from San Diego and Los Angeles and San Francisco. It’s an exciting time to be running a full-service restaurant here.”

Luhan agreed. “As fast-food prices go up, people are looking for an alternative opportunity. And what we’ve seen post-COVID, people aren’t looking just for dining, they’re looking for an experience,” he said.

“You look at the middle market segment of restaurants that are having some issues right now — and there’s a whole group of them that are in bankruptcy.” He cites Chili’s, which is massively restructuring, running TV ads promoting its $10.99 “3 for Me” deal saying, “Have y’all seen those fast-food prices lately? It’s like, even they want you to come to Chili’s!”

“Their problem is, they’re charging so much for a product that is indescribable, that is not unique, in an environment that doesn’t provide the experience that the guest wants, and they’re finding a problem trying to identify themselves. The mom-andpops are lucky because we already provide a unique experience and we can make decisions without going through all the corporate layers. We’re more market driven.”

Restaurants like Luciana’s and Trevor’s at the Tracks also pride themselves on the interpersonal skills of their servers and are much less likely to go the route of laying off workers and replacing them with automated food preparation and delivery.

“Robotic dining, I know it’s coming, I know it’s there,” Luhan acknowledged. “But it’s not something we’re going to do. My belief is that every server has a personality and they need to show their personality. Our brand is about an interpersonal experience, about communication with that guest. It’s about making that dinner experience more enjoyable and providing guests with a story when they walk away. Whether it’s adding to that guest’s birthday story, anniversary story or just a celebration of life. It’s a story that we’re joining with them on, and hopefully adding to.

“So far,” he said. “I don’t see any robots able to do that!”

Trevor Baird owns Trevor’s at the Tracks at the historic San Juan Capistrano train depot, which benefits from its unique location as an experienceable dining locale. (Trevor’s at the Tracks/Submitted)

Luciana’s Ristorante in Dana Point recently celebrated its 40th anniversary (Luciana’s Ristorante/Submitted)

East Coast on the West Coast

aPizza Doho serves Dana Point a taste of its hometown

By Kaila Mellos

Marcos Costas, Christopher Christian and his nephew, Anthony Christian, are passionate about pizza, specifically New Haven, Connecticut-style pies.

For two years, they’ve brought those homemade flavors to Dana Point in the form of aPizza Doho.

Located in The Row off Pacific Coast Highway, aPizza Doho honors East Coast traditions. The name was inspired by Costas’ hometown of Hamden, Connecticut, where pizza was pronounced “abets.”

“I grew up on the East Coast,” Costas said. “The town where my mother and father bought a home in 1985 was in Connecticut, and I went to college in New Haven. When we would go out for pizza, it’s pronounced ‘abeets.’”

When he came to Southern California, he wanted to create community through food.

“True to my roots, I am a neighborhood guy, and I wanted an accessible neighborhood restaurant for all who come, and nothing brings people together better than pizza,” Costas said.

“We wanted to design a neighborhood restaurant that was an extension of the community, and we believe it to be a come as you are, whether that’s families coming off the beach, high-chair children, or whatever it be, you can rely upon our consistency, as any good pizza place should be.”

When Costas — who opened Glasspar as a managing partner and Salt Creek Grille as a general manager — took over the former Parallel Pizza space in 2022, he

red onion, olives, cucumber, artichoke, grana Padano fennel salami, provolone chickpeas gorgonzola and Italian vinaigrette ($18) and the aBeef and Cheese sandwich, filled with braised short rib, caramelized onions, roasted peppers, provolone and spiced mayo all between homemade bread ($23).

wanted Christopher to join him.

Christopher served as vice president of culinary operations at Fox Restaurant Concepts, so he was comfortable chasing this dream with Costas.

“We sat down for coffee, I told (Christopher) what was going on in the building, and he said, ‘I’m in,’” Costas recalled. “Then he became my biggest investor, and he’s done all this work from the kindness of his heart.”

Costas turned to his partners to make executive chef decisions. He notes that while everything on the menu is great, the dough is the restaurant’s star.

“The signature item and our magic are in the daily freshly made dough,” Costas said. “A lot of the flavor profiles from my two chef partners have created very flavorful combinations, and you can’t build a pizza unless you have a really good cheese pizza or a really good dough. I think we have both of those.”

The pizzas start with wedge-shaped dough that keeps the toppings in place and offers a nice bite, Costas said. For the traditional aPizza, the toppings are, simply, dough, tomato sauce and pecorino.

Among aPizza Doho’s signature dishes are the Vampire with roasted garlic, mozzarella, provolone, grana Padano, ricotta, basil and truffle oil ($27); the aBeetz with tomato sauce, garlic oil, pecorino romano and herbs ($20); and the Hwy 1 featuring tomato sauce, Italian fennel sausage, pepperoni, garlic, mushrooms, mozzarella, caramelized onions, peppers and pecorino romano ($28).

aPizza Doho does not sell pizza by slice; it only sells a standard 15-inch pizza.

Those not in the mood for a pizza can choose from a handful of salads and sandwiches, which range in price from $12 to $23. Featured on the menu are the Tutta La Casa salad featuring peppers, tomato,

aPizza Doho

“The salads are phenomenal, the appetizers are phenomenal, the sandwiches are served on homemade bread, and all the pizzas are fantastic,” Costas said.

“We do have predesigned pizzas, but customers can also choose to build their own pizza with all of our ingredients, which are fresh. But Chris and Anthony have put together some signature pies, and nine times out of 10, people choose one of those and fall in love with them.”

Costas said he takes great pride in having the freshest, locally sourced ingredients.

“When Chris and Anthony started putting together the menu at great lengths, there were no shortcuts,” Costas said.

“We get the cheese, and we shred it; we make the dough several times a day. We have the freshest ingredients and ones that pop the flavor the best on all our menu items. I like to think that one of the most specific compliments we get daily is how fresh and good our ingredients are, and I think it’s because we don’t take any shortcuts. We take such great pride in sourcing the product.”

From fresh ingredients to a taste of the East Coast, aPizza Doho is working hard to be the family go-to spot in Dana Point for all to enjoy a slice.

34255 Pacific Coast Highway, Suite 101, Dana Point 949-570-3636, apizzadoho.com

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday and Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday

When Marcos Costas came to Southern California from the East Coast, he wanted to create community through food. (Rich Schmitt/ Contributor)

Among aPizza Doho’s signature dishes is the Vampire with roasted garlic, mozzarella, provolone, grana Padano, ricotta, basil and truffle oil ($27) (Rich Schmitt/Contributor)

aPizza Doho is located in The Row off Pacific Coast Highway. (Rich Schmitt/Contributor)

Chef Anthony Christian co-owns aPizza Doho. (Rich Schmitt/Contributor)

New Kids on the Block

South Orange County culinary scene expands

By Breeana Greenberg

South Orange County has seen several newcomers to the culinary scene since the start of the year, with new restaurants offering a variety of cuisines from burgers to sushi, French and Italian to Asian fusion.

As a slate of new restaurants has opened in San Clemente, Dana Point and San Juan Capistrano since the start of the year, foodies in the area have a wide variety of restaurants to try.

San Clemente

Looking to offer San Clemente residents and visitors a unique and visual experience, Krazy Kooters Burgers and Beer is expected to open on El Camino Real soon.

After owning and operating Sancho’s Tacos for 14 years, owners Donnie and Erika Lancaster decided to open a new restaurant concept. Donnie noted that it’s been his dream for years to open a burger spot, and he seized the opportunity to purchase the former JD’s Kitchen & Bar location when the building went up for sale.

The name, Krazy Kooters Burgers and Beer, harkens back to the 1970s TV show “The Dukes of Hazzard.”

“I went through all these different names,” Donnie said. “I used to love ‘Dukes of Hazzard’ as a young kid, so that’s how I got Krazy Kooters Burgers and Beer, because I thought Crazy Cooter was the Dukes of Hazzard’s cousin who drove the tow truck.”

Donnie explained that he’s curating an eclectic décor for the restaurant, with antique animatronics, lanterns, and wood from the 1800s.

“The whole thing is an experience,” Donnie said. “Visually, it’s going to blow your mind. We have a rooftop as well. … We have a patio on the outside that we’re going to do magic from the Magic Castle for brunch on Saturday and Sundays.

As the restaurant gears up to open soon, Donnie noted that after running some tastings, the burgers, barbeque, and mac and cheese have been fan favorites.

Gibroni’s celebrated its grand opening on El Camino Real in San Clemente on May 17 at the former Iva Lee’s following the restaurant’s closure at the end of March after serving locals for 21 years.

The restaurant has offered Detroit-style pizza out of JD’s Kitchen and Bar since late

2020. This year, the restaurant expanded with the new space on El Camino Real.

In an interview with the San Clemente Times ahead of the grand opening, owner Tony Gioutsos said he was “extremely excited, for sure.”

“I’m obviously nervous, but I think we’ve gotten enough soft opening practice in, to where it’s not going to be as nerve-racking as I think.”

Buona Forchetta opened its sixth location on El Camino Real in San Clemente, offering Italian cuisine at its first Orange County location in early April.

The restaurant offers a variety of pizzas, calzones and build-your-own pastas.

Just down the street from Buona Forchetta, Pure Burger Bar opened in February, offering organic, grass-fed burgers, fries, loaded fries and more.

Dana Point

Looking to bring a slice of France to South Orange County, bakery Le Saint Honore opened on Pacific Coast Highway.

Owner Manoubi Med explained that

he and his wife Miriam Louati started the business out of a kitchen in Long Beach, selling their baked goods at local farmers markets. Beginning with just two farmers markets, the bakery now sells at over 35 markets.

After experiencing success at local farmers markets, Med explained that he looked to expand with a brick-and-mortar restaurant.

“We invited all the friends and the people that we know. We did invite also the regular customers that we have at the farmers markets,” Med said. “We do have a lot of regular customers that they come always to the market, so we invited them to the grand opening.”

Since the grand opening, Med said he now has “new regular customers” that stop by Le Saint Honore almost five days a week.

The Dana Point Chamber of Commerce welcomed the French bakery into the local business community with a ribbon-cutting ceremony on April 19.

Le Saint Honore offers freshly baked

goods, tarts and quiches.

Med, originally from Nice, France, added that he hopes to offer a “taste of France” at the restaurant. Louati, he added, has curated the décor to create a cozy and comfortable environment for patrons to feel both at home and like they’ve just come off the streets of Paris.

“Even the tables, the chairs, the mirrors inside, the decoration, the whole environment with the music and everything, it makes you feel comfortable,” Med said. “It makes you feel somewhere else.

“And then once you try the croissant, from the first bite with the butter flavor, you feel like you are in France,” Med continued.

Above all, Med emphasized that he cares deeply about the quality of the food. After managing French bakeries previously, quality is paramount to success, Med said.

On May 10, LÚA Asian Fusion Eatery opened at Monarch Bay Plaza offering

See EXPANDS on page 19

Gibroni’s has offered Detroit-style pizza out of JD’s Kitchen and Bar since late 2020. This year, the restaurant expanded with the new space on El Camino Real. (Gibroni’s/Submitted)

cuisine that combines Vietnamese with French and international flavors, chef Khang Nguyen explained.

“LÚA, meaning rice grain, promises to offer Asian fusion cuisine, marrying Vietnamese traditions with French and international flavors,” Nguyen said. “To us, LÚA is more than just a restaurant; it is a celebration of the past, present and future of Vietnamese cuisine, where tradition meets innovation in every dish we serve.”

Nguyen noted that the LÚA team hopes patrons “leave with more than just a satisfied appetite.”

“We want to share our love for food and create an unforgettable experience with dishes they never had before,” Nguyen said. “Our goal is that every meal leaves a lasting impression. Beyond food, we want to create moments of joy and feel ingrained into the Dana Point and South Orange County community.”

The fusion concept, Nguyen said, gives the team an opportunity to “explore and push new boundaries to add a modern and creative twist to traditional Vietnamese-French dishes like smoked brisket pho or crispy pork belly baguettes.”

“To us, LÚA is more than just a restaurant; it is a celebration of the past, present

and future of Vietnamese cuisine, where tradition meets innovation in every dish we serve,” Nguyen said.

Also in the Monarch Bay Plaza, Salt Creek Grille will open this summer under new leadership after closing in January.

The iconic restaurant served visitors and locals alike since it first opened in July 1996. Locals Jess Walker, Jeff Roberts, Steve Vanderweide, Eric Hawkey, Reggie Robinson and Sri Divel have banded together to breathe new life into the restaurant as they look to refresh the existing structure.

“We’re trying to keep a lot of the historic values on the exterior,” Walker said in an interview with the Dana Point Times in April. “We are redoing the patio, and so it’ll be absolutely gorgeous.”

The restaurant will bring back some of the customer favorite dishes to the new California Coastal Cuisine menu.

San Juan Capistrano

A new sushi restaurant, Sushi Kara, opened on Del Obispo in San Juan Capistrano in late April, offering a variety of rolls, hand rolls, tempura, udon and more.

Closer to Downtown San Juan Capistrano, Rosewood Social opened quietly in the historic Franciscan Plaza in early March.

The new rooftop restaurant offers a

“modern and authentic take on Asian cuisine featuring steaks, seafood, craft cocktails, and warm service in a unique and beautiful dining venue,” Rosewood Social general manager Patrick Sarte said.

Sarte partnered with chef John Beriker to launch Rosewood Social after both working at the Omni La Costa Resort and Spa, where Sarte served as resort manager and Beriker served as executive chef.

“Our mutual passion for food and hos-

pitality led to this venture,” Sarte said. “We wanted to create an experience rooted in John’s extensive culinary experience, using quality products with an emphasis on exceptional hospitality; that became Rosewood Social.”

The design of the restaurant, Sarte explained, is inspired by “exotic destinations like Bali, Boracay and Koh Samui.”

“The restaurant design features soft browns, tans, wood and green highlights to bring the concept to life,” Sarte said.

Gibroni’s celebrated its grand opening on El Camino Real in San Clemente on May 17 at the former Iva Lee’s. (Gibroni’s/Submitted)

What a Catch Glasspar’s chef and owner shares success story

By Nikki Link

Nothing says a match made in heaven quite like the love story of a beach town and a homegrown seafood restaurant. For the community of Dana Point, that story can be found in Glasspar. Nestled just off the waters of Dana Point Harbor, this eatery is the latest work of local chef Rob Wilson.

His introduction to the culinary world happened early.

“I started when I was 15 at the Dana Point Chart House as a dish worker and worked my way up to the line, and from there kind of just kept going,” Wilson said.

After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in New York, his career shifted into the world of luxury hotels — including the Surf and Sand Resort in Laguna Beach, The Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel and, eventually, The Montage in 2010.

“With The Ritz and Montage, I was able to open over a dozen hotels, assist in opening many restaurants and reconcepting of restaurants,” Wilson said. “Actually, with Montage (I) got to do some design work; designing the new Pendry Hotels, kitchens and setting up the culinary operations for them.”

After honing his craft in some of SoCal’s most high-end properties, Wilson decided

it was time to build something of his own.

“My wife and I had been talking about doing a project together for a long time,” he said.

After careful preparation, they leaped into restaurant ownership.

“It was just time for us to do something for us,” Wilson said. “I know we had the background and the knowledge to do so.”

Thus, Glasspar was born. Wilson explained that the restaurant was named after a boat-building company started in 1947 by yacht builder Bill Tritt. He went on to say that he also had a personal connection to the name.

“My father had a 1965 Seafair Sedan Glasspar that we would fish right off of every Wednesday and Saturday right out of Dana Point Harbor,” Wilson said.

The only problem? The timing wasn’t as perfect as he’d hoped.

“We opened three months before COVID,” Wilson said.

See WHAT A CATCH on page 22

Rob Wilson explains that Glasspar was named after a boat-building company started in 1947 by yacht builder Bill Tritt. (Glasspar/Submitted)

THE COACH HOUSE

5/23

5/24

5/25

5/26

5/31

6/15

6/16

6/21

6/22

6/23

6/28

6/29

7/3

7/5

7/6

7/12

7/13

7/14

& THE UNION GAP

10/20 YOUNG DUBLINERS 10/31 OINGO BOINGO FORMER MEMBERS / UNTOUCHABLES

BAND

7/19 THE 5TH DIMENSION

7/20 Y&T 50th Anniversary

7/25 THE RAT PACK

7/26 KEN GARCIA

7/27 BOB SCHNEIDER

7/28 BOBBY GRAY

8/1 CASH’D OUT

8/2 Beach Boy AL JARDINE

8/3 CUBENSIS

8/9 BIG BAD VOODOO DADDY

8/17 PIANO MEN

8/23 SUPER DIAMOND

8/24 SUPER DIAMOND

8/27 TAB BENOIT & ANDERS OSBORNE wiTh sPeCial GuesT JD SIMO

11/1 OINGO BOINGO FORMER MEMBERS / UNTOUCHABLES

11/8 COMMON SENSE 11/9 TYRONE WELLS 11/15 RONSTADT REVIVAL 11/16 JOSHUA RADIN

& RON POPE

11/23 RUFUS WAINWRIGHT 11/27 BEATLES VS STONES 11/29 THE PLATTERS

11/30 LEE ROCKER

of the Stray Cats

12/4 LIVINGSTON TAYLOR & LOUDON WAINWRIGHT

12/15 THE GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA

12/29 L.A. GUNS 1/24 GENE LOVES JEZEBEL BOW WOW WOW

As was the case with restaurants all over the country, operations came to a screeching halt. Wilson quickly realized he needed to pivot to turn a profit from the fledgling business.

“I had an idea that hit me, really the first day that we closed, when the government said, ‘Shut down,’” Wilson said.

The first thing he did was give his fish guy a call.

“We opened a fish market,” Wilson said. “We transformed the restaurant into cocktails to go, wine to go, produce boxes, fresh baked bread, infused olive oils, desserts and raw fish.”

It’s safe to say it was a success.

“We literally sold out in two and a half hours,” Wilson said.

During the height of the pandemic, the fish market ran every Wednesday and Saturday afternoon — effectively keeping the business afloat. Today it lives on in a slightly different form, with customers able to place orders for fresh seafood online every Wednesday through Sunday.

While now able to function again as a full-time restaurant, fresh seafood is still the backbone of Glasspar’s concept.

“We are a classic American seafood hall from the East Coast brought to the West Coast with a very seasonal inspired menu,” Wilson said.

He explained that he switches it up around three times per year, but smaller changes to the menu can occur as often as weekly.

“We have a farmstead salad on our menu, which is basically whatever the farmer is bringing me I’m making a salad out of for the week,” Wilson said.

There’s also a lot of experimenting when Alaskan halibut is in season.

“We’ll change the complete set of the halibut, meaning we’ll change the sauce, the starch, the vegetable,” Wilson said.

However, he went on to say there are cornerstones of the menu that never change for the diners that have their favorites.

“Our octopus is probably our second biggest-selling appetizer and hasn’t changed since we opened,” Wilson said. “I think if I was to take it off (the menu), I think people would kill me.”

That’s served with yellow pole beans, duck-fat potatoes, cracked Mediterranean olives, piquillo romesco, saffron aioli and

Marcona almond powder.

One of Wilson’s other pride and joys is shellfish.

“We source oysters from all over the country,” he said.

From Baja and Virginia to the Pacific Northwest and Prince Edward Island, they’re especially enjoyed on Thursday nights at a discounted price alongside a glass of bubbles.

On Tuesdays and Wednesdays, diners can look forward to Regatta Night. That’s when Wilson offers a three-course prix-fixe menu for $38. Highlights of that menu include shrimp pappardelle and duck confit.

Ever the innovator, Wilson is constantly expanding the restaurant’s special offerings. Flight Club, a program where four wines are highlighted alongside four tapas, will soon expand into spirits.

“We’re doing our first-ever tequila and caviar tasting coming up at the end of June,” Wilson said.

“We also are going to be venturing into what’s going to be called the Captain’s Table,” he continued.

While still in the development stages, Wilson hopes to host the private, invite-only dinners once or twice a month. They’ll likely feature six to 10 courses with wine and cocktail pairings.

It’s all part of his effort of staying on the cutting edge of Dana Point’s restaurant scene — because this once sleepy little beach town is changing.

“Having grown up here I’ve seen and

been privy to the graduation of what food in Dana Point has been,” Wilson said. “Our goal with the restaurant was to just really to bring something new and fresh.”

However, there’s nothing quite like impressing a longtime resident. That’s something Wilson got to do recently, when a man who lived up the street and in Dana Point since the 1970s came into the restaurant with his family — and made a point of saying he doesn’t eat out often because he can cook better food at home.

That was until he called Wilson over to their table after the meal to say he’d be back soon.

“That made me really happy because that just goes to show that what we’re doing is a little bit above what the normal person can do at home,” Wilson said.

After all, that’s really the moral of the story — serve delicious, approachable food in a laid-back atmosphere and people will come.

“Be prepared to just relax and enjoy and have hopefully great food, great service, great cocktails and a nice bottle of wine,” Wilson said.

Glasspar

24961 Dana Point Harbor Drive, Dana Point 949-240-6243, glasspar.com

From Baja and Virginia to the Pacific Northwest and Prince Edward Island, the oysters are especially enjoyed on Thursday nights at a discounted price alongside a glass of bubbles at Glasspar. (Glasspar/Submitted)

After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in New York, Rob Wilson shifted his career into the world of luxury hotels. (Glasspar/Submitted)

“Our octopus is probably our second biggest-selling appetizer and hasn’t changed since we opened,” says Rob Wilson of Glasspar. “I think if I was to take it off (the menu), I think people would kill me.” (Glasspar/Submitted)