Nov / Dec 2016

The Magic Of Stones An oasis of calm, found at Nature Art Gallery.

Cutting it Fine

Taking a look at what makes the fruit carving class at Hansar one of the finest around!

àÊ´ç¨ÊÙ‹ÊÇÃäÒÅÑ »Ç§¢ŒÒ¾Ãоط¸à¨ŒÒ ¢Í¹ŒÍÁà¡ÅŒÒ¹ŒÍÁ¡ÃÐËÁ‹ÍÁ ÃÓÅÖ¡ã¹¾ÃÐÁËÒ¡ÃسҸԤس áÅÐËÇÁ¶ÇÒ¤ÇÒÁÍÒÅÑÂá´‹ ¾ÃкҷÊÁà´ç¨¾ÃлÃÁÔ¹·ÃÁËÒÀÙÁÔ¾ÅÍ´ØÅÂà´ª His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand Rama IX the Great 5 December 1927 - 13 October 2016

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A Warm Welcome

Editor

Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com

Graphic Designer

Jit-anong Sae-ung - Zign

Photographer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don

Feature Writer Rob De Wet

Feature Writer Dimitri Waring

Feature Writer Karan Ladd

Webmaster

Seksak Kerdkanno - Klauy

Sales & Marketing Director Nipawan Chuaysagul - Ning 0 898 783 891

ning@siammap.com

Financial Director

Kasper Bjørk kasper@siammap.com

Managing Director Henrik Bjørk henrik@siammap.com

Siam Map Company Ltd.

52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com

Samui’s changed a lot over the years, and keeps on doing so. But there’s one thing that stays the same, and that’s the blue, blue skies. Samui and its neighbours, Koh Pha-Ngan and Koh Tao all enjoy a wonderful microclimate – it’s pretty much the sunniest area in the nation.

November, however, tends to be the rainy season, with cooler weather and, yes, some of it will be wet. The rain’s often concentrated into dramatic downpours that give way to sunny spells after a short while.

If and when the rain sets in, there’s still plenty to do – the island has enough amenities to vie with any large town. With restaurants a-plenty, activities of all kinds and sports facilities there’s enough going on to outlast any bad weather. And if that’s not enough, there’s plenty of shopping and entertainment at the malls. Central Festival, for example, offers food, beverage, a cinema and even stage performances. In short, no matter what the season, the island has you well and truly covered. Then there are the temples: each of Samui’s towns and villages has a temple, and each is worth visiting.

December is of course the run up to Christmas, a pleasantly laid-back time here on Samui with none of the frenetic commercialism of the West. You can have a traditional Christmas lunch, if you wish, and really get into the swing of things, but you may wish to wait for the big, big fireworks on New Year’s Eve, when the entire nation celebrates and lights up the skies. Above all, tropical Thailand will definitely not resemble the winter wonderland of a thousand Christmas cards.

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Siam Map Company Ltd. 2016

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Mediterranean Cuisine Amidst a panoramic dreamscape that overlooks the pristine Crystal Bay, The Cliff warmly invites you to a truly unforgettable dining experience on Koh Samui.

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2014, 2015 & 2016 2014

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Reservations Essential For reservations please call 077 448 508 Bar daily 12pm - 2am

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Kitchen opens 12pm - 10pm.

Choeng Mon

CONTENTS 34

18 A Gentle Delight

The festival of Loy Krathong symbolises the

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W=Wow!

112 Luxe Living by The Sea

quiet joy that’s bubbling quietly under the

Blending personal attention with contemporary thought, the only thing you’ll

Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Villas is located in one of Samui’s most enviable

surface of Thailand.

hear at W Retreat is wow!

spots and offers outstanding accommodation.

26 The Magic Of Stones

78 The Newest Nordic

34 A Prayer Before Punching Witness the extraordinary world of Thai boxing in Chaweng.

84 New Wave Impiana There’s a quiet revolution happening in our top resorts – we visit Impiana Samui to see what it’s all about.

42 Culinary Culmination The Cliff Bar & Grill’s not only high above the sea, it’s high on diners’ agendas.

48 Up, Up and Away

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‘Paired’ at Sheraton Resort!

A look at one of the nicest little getaways anywhere; Koh Tao.

60 Zoning Out With lush gardens and exotic treatments, life’s looking very laid-back at Eranda Herbal Spa.

Magical Namuang If you’re up for a hike, you’ll be rewarded by the 80 metre high Namuang waterfall.

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Cutting it Fine Taking a look at what makes the fruit carving class at Hansar one of the finest around!

102

Please Don’t!

A short guide on how to spend time here without upsetting anyone – etiquette in Thailand.

108

More Than Medication Samui’s own chain of pharmacies, Morya, offers an unusually broad spectrum of products and services.

Art and Heart Delightful, artistic, tranquil – Khwan Beach Resort is a luxurious hideaway that sets new standards of comfort and quality in Maenam.

124 Tips for Tips All you need to know about tipping – when to do it, when not, and how much!

128 Kanda Candour A whole lot of reasons why not to stay in a hotel – a candid look at Kanda Residences in Choeng Mon.

Wine-pairing, of course – but you also have to sample the beer-pairing at Sheraton Samui

Taking the scenic route across the mountains.

54 Tiny Tao

118

Guaranteed confidence is what you get when you buy into New Nordic Group’s latest development, right on the edge of Lamai Beach.

An oasis of calm, found at Nature Art Gallery.

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128

134

Visa Vista Staying on in Thailand? You’ll need to get a visa.

138 Clear Waters Magic Alambic rum distillery produces the purest of rums in a relaxed garden setting.

T H E

H O M E

O F

I N S P I R E D

I N T E R I O R S

Phuket 424 Srisoonthorn Rd. Cherngtalay Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 76 325 419

Samui 9/18 Moo1 Maenam Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 77 247 675

info@oriental-living.net

www.oriental-living.net

Chaweng

Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants.

Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.

Lamai

Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road.

And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it.

12 l www.samuiholiday.com

Mae Nam

Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.

Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.

Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.

NathoN

This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.

Bo Phut

Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan.

And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.

Big Buddha and Plai Laem

The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.

Choeng Mon

Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.

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Bang Rak

In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views.

Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat.

Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).

Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi

The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.

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Hua Thanon

This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.

Thong Krut

With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village.

Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum.

Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.

The Interior

Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.

Escape to Boujis Boutique Resort An intimate cliffside retreat of 14 luxury villas with unparalleled ocean front views

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soak up the serenity Centrally located yet away from the bustle of Chaweng and Lamai, Boujis luxury villas blend a unique style of modern decor with pan-Asian antique furniture.

Ideal for couples or young families, Boujis Boutique Resort is the perfect place to enjoy a piece of paradise and soak up the serenity.

Located Cliffside between Chaweng & Lamai call 077 448 544 www.boujissamui.com

Where Will You Be This New Yearʼs Eve?

N G E L O U

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L L G R I

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A GENTLE

DELIGHT The festival of Loy Krathong symbolises the quiet joy that’s bubbling quietly under the surface of Thailand.

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In many ways Thailand is a voyage of discovery. It’s probably as unique as you can get in today’s busy world. What makes it like this is the fact that it’s just about the only nation that’s never been colonised. And this means that it’s never had to absorb new ideas or sudden new ways of doing things.

And that includes customs and traditions. Yes, certainly it’s a Buddhist nation, and as such shares some occasions with other parts of the world. But, as with many other aspects of life in Thailand, things here seem to take on their own particular flavour.

The best-known of Thai festivals must be, of course, Songkran, the Thai New Year, when possibly more water is seen on one day than in the rest of the 20 l www.samuiholiday.com

year combined. But, next to this, is the gentle celebration of Loy Krathong.

This event takes places on the evening of the full moon on the 12th month of the Thai lunar calendar, which this year falls on 14th November.

As with most such traditional events, there are two distinct layers to Loy Krathong. One is tied in with the origins of the festival, the historical elements and their observed traditions. And the other is the spirit of the thing – the way in which it has come to be passed down to the people today, what it has come to represent, and the how people now interpret and celebrate the occasion. In translation, ‘loy’ means ‘to float’ and ‘krathong’ is the general name for a small vessel or raft. In this context it has come to

mean a small round ‘boat’, traditionally made from banana bark or leaves, and often shaped like a lotus blossom.

Nobody is certain how all of this began. But it is generally believed that it originated in the 14th century, in India, as a Hindu festival (similar to Deepavali). A thanksgiving to the deity of the River Ganges, and with the floating lanterns representing the giving of life throughout the year. According to the writings of one of Thailand’s most beloved kings, H.M. King Rama IV, the festival was adopted by Buddhists in Thailand as a ceremony to honour the original Buddha, Siddhartha Guatama. And it all centres on King Loethai, the King of Sukhothai at the time, and his royal consort, Noppamas.

The legend goes that it was Noppamas who first created the Buddhist version of the floating krathongs and illuminated them with candles, placing offerings of tokens and valuables, together with elaborate carvings made from fruit (one of the reasons that traditional fruit-carving competitions still exist today at the celebrations in all the local temples). The king was so pleased by this unexpected surprise that he issued a royal decree that in the years to come, the whole kingdom should bear witness to the ‘life festival’ by making and floating similar krathongs. And today, in the temples, together with the krathongs and the fruit carving, each year a ‘Miss Noppamas’ beauty competition is also held, in memory of the queen who so many years ago started all of this off. www.samuiholiday.com l 21

Over the centuries, the symbolism of the event has swung around a little, and now represents new directions. The candles pay respect to, and venerate, the Buddha with light. And the act of sending the krathong away is an acknowledgment and a rejection of grudges and meanness – a symbolic act of cleansing so that one can begin again with pure intent.

The addition of a lock of hair and fingernail clippings emphasise this, as they stand for the rejection of lower instincts in order to start anew.

Food plays its part, too. Sometimes you’ll see rice noodles included.

These ‘khanom jeen’ are long and have a chewy texture, symbolising something that will endure and is not easily broken. And quite often some sticky rice, ‘khao neow’, is also added, as it represents the bonding together of a family or couple.

But don’t forget that Thailand is largely a farming nation. And in the North and North-Eastern Regions another belief has also crept in, reflecting the value of, and the respect that people have for water. It’s a venerated and life-giving element in their society, and in this part of Thailand it’s generally thought that Loy Krathong is to honour Phra Mae Khongkha, the Goddess of Water.

Well, that’s the history and tradition behind it all. And, in a way, there’s something in there that appeals to everyone, young or old, in the country

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and the towns. And at all levels, from a dedicated religious festival in the temples, to a bit of fun for an hour or two at the side of a pond or stream. And certainly it’s about new beginnings and togetherness. And that includes families, as it’s a looked-forward to source of delight for the kids. But the event is also a must for young lovers across the nation, and an occasion to declare their commitment and affection. But it’s not altogether easy sailing, as it’s an ill-omen if things go badly and their krathong should sink!

For a long time, the most popular spot on Samui for Loy Krathong was the famous Big Buddha temple (Wat Phra Yai). But over the last few years it’s become just too crowded, making it a disagreeable struggle to get in and out on the narrow causeway, and an impossible job to park.

Nathon is still highly-rated, as all along the front the sea is shallow and accessible. But the best place to go these days is Chaweng Lake, which is not only central but has a huge circumference. But wherever you end up it’ll be delightful, if not perhaps entirely as gentle as it used to be in times gone by!

Rob De Wet

treat yourself at least once the dining room

Probably the most beautiful restaurant on the island and definitely the best food. Dine outside on the rocks by the sea or inside the open air ‘dining room’.

Our exceptional chef and his team present a wonderful cross-over of Mediterranean and delicious French cuisine.

The Dining Room is open every day for lunch and dinner.

We hold regular events and often live music.

Rocky’s Boutique REsort, Koh Samui.

Reservations 077 233 020 dining@rockyresort.com www.rockyresort.com.

On the ringroad just south of Lamai.

THE MAGIC OF STONES An oasis of calm, found at Nature Art Gallery

As you enter the main store, you immediately leave behind the hot and bustling beach road of Chaweng. Now just let yourself begin to breathe, feel your body and mind become so much calmer and relaxed as you start to delight in the magical aura and kaleidoscope of colours and gems that envelop you. From the polished wooden floors to the geometric ceiling designs, from the intricate shell chandeliers suspended from that ceiling to the glass display cases of sparkling stones, crystals and artistic jewellery resting on huge gnarled wood tables, your senses are introduced to a rainbow of opulence and mystery. Welcome to the magical world of stones.

Long ago, shamans, priests and healers used crystals and stones for protection and healing. Today there is a resurgence of this idea. Many people find that the power of stones has a positive effect on them, lifting their spirits and healing discomfort in their bodies. Some examples are as follows; Amethyst, thought to be a stone of spirituality and contentment.

It is good for meditation and balancing the energy of the mind, body and emotions. This stone is said to release you from addictive personalities, either in yourself or others, and can relieve headaches.

Lapis Lazuli is known as the stone of friendship, it can ease tension, anxiety, shyness, insomnia. It can quiet the mind and improve creativeness The deepest, clearest green emeralds are used for rejuvenation and regeneration. They are said to give considerable help and support with multiple sclerosis, Parkinson’s disease and epilepsy.

Emeralds are believed to normalise blood pressure, and help with all kinds of heart and kidney complaints. They activate self-healing,

promote intuition and emanate peace and harmony for the body and soul.

The ancient Chinese used the many different colours of jade to inspire courage, wisdom, justice and humility. It is still known as the stone of health, wealth and long life. If placed under your pillow it can assist in dream recall. Jade has a gentle, steady energy making it another very good stone for meditation.

Crystal is a high energy stone, it can remove all negative energy and create an environment of peace and harmony, balancing emotions and restoring a positive outlook.

The Shiva Eye is a stone that protects the opening of the Turban Snail shell, and it is actually the ‘door of the shell’. Also known as ‘mermaids’ money’, it is thought to be a good luck charm for fishermen, and to assist in the accrual of wealth. Some wearers believe it sharpens their intuition, deepens understanding, instils wisdom and improves self-esteem.

Micha Trav and his business partner Shai Shalom Nissim, are the owners and creators of Nature Art Gallery. They have acquired vast knowledge and experienced the power of stones over many years of travel. The Nature Art Gallery stores allow them to share their passion and love of stones with you. They create unique jewellery that is not only beautiful to see and to wear, but is also naturally healing. If Micha and Shai are not around, the helpful staff are on-hand to answer any questions you may have.

Information charts are also around the store, giving you further information on the nature and properties of the many stones, crystals and gems available. Do you know what your birthstone is?

Or which stones compliment your zodiac sign? Now maybe the time to find out!

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Nature Art Gallery stores sell a wide variety of unique and individual jewellery made from gold, silver, stainless steel, leather, precious and semi-precious stones and crystals, as well as loose gems, stones, rocks, fossils, shells and crystals. There is a smaller selection of hand-made leather bags, belts and other accessories, some inlaid with stones. Each store has a seemingly infinite myriad of choice. There are earrings, bracelets, cuffs, necklaces, pendants, rings and brooches. The designs come from all over the globe, including from artists in Bali, Italy and the famous Israeli ‘wearable art’ designs from Bat Ami. It really is an amazing gallery-type environment. You can browse to your heart’s content, continually being amazed at the deep colours and patterns of the stones found in our natural world.

Upstairs in the Chaweng Beach Road shop, is an old style jewellery factory. Here, Anup and Rajendra, two of the five Nepalese workers, sit and design intricate patterns and combinations with different stones, before making the finished product from silver or 18 carat gold.

If you really can’t find that specific piece of jewellery that you are after, you can discuss any ideas you may have with Micha or the other staff. They will help you bring your ideas to life with a bespoke personal service. This includes inspiration if required, help with the design and finally making your ideas a reality, producing an exquisite and original piece of artwork, just for you. You can choose your metal and stones, gems or crystals from the store, or even bring in an existing item and have it melted down and re-designed into something more aligned to your current taste.

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There are currently four locations of Nature Art Gallery in Thailand, and luckily for you, two of them are on Samui.

Both are in easy to find locations with safe, plentiful parking at Central Festival. The main store is on Chaweng Beach Road and is diagonally opposite Starbucks. The second is in Central Festival itself, and is located on the second floor in the Bird Cage Zone. The other two stores are both on Koh Pha-Ngan, in the Haad Rin shopping area. All stores are open from 10:00 am until midnight every day.

So go on, push that door open, and allow your senses to enter the serene oasis of calm that awaits. Give yourself over to wonder and awe at the magic of the stones. And as Micha always says “Let the stones choose you�.

Karan Ladd ________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7742 2594. www.thailand-jewelry.com

Welcome to Morya Pharmacy, your one-stop healthcare destination on Samui. 欢迎来到苏梅岛度假胜地之一的 Morya Pharmacy The new definition of a full service pharmacy. 以全方位服务理念为新定义的药房

The best and largest range of healthcare and organic products, gifts and souvenirs on Samui. 是苏梅岛规模最大，产品最优的生产有机产品、 礼品和纪念品的制造保健中心

AS FEATURED IN

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CHILL DIFFER ENT

6pm - 9pm President’s Seafood BBQ

Reservations: 077 458 100

/ BeachRepublic

A PRAYER BEFORE PUNCHING Witness the extraordinary world of Thai boxing in Chaweng.

Utterly different from the gumbo of kicks and punches known as kick boxing, Muay Thai is a highly traditional art dating back hundreds of years, and is continually gaining in popularity. Over the last decade, many Muay Thai schools have opened up round the world, but Samui and Thailand draw in fighters who come here to train and experience the sport in its original home.

It’s easy to see why. Watch Thai boxers as they train, and you realize this is one of the most serious workouts you can give your body. Since this martial art allows the use of more than just fists, the entire body has to be in tip-top condition in order to have a chance of winning. There are 30 fighting tactics to master in Muay Thai, and to do so requires years and years of practice. The ‘nak muay’ or Thai boxer uses punches and kicks as well as his or her elbows and knees. This martial art is definitely not to be confused with boxing; boxers face great challenges when they switch to Muay Thai – even the basics are very, very different.

The Muay Thai that you’ll see today is a modern version of the older kind, or ‘Muay Boraan’, literally ‘ancient boxing’, which was a fighting style originally taught in villages to help the community defend itself against invaders. Men, women and children took part. Over the years, it evolved until it became a sport in the twentieth century. The newer version, Muay Thai, appeared in the 1920s with the word ‘Thai’ being added in order to distinguish it from foreign styles of boxing. But it adapted some of the Queensbury rules in order to promote safety and consistency. That’s why you’ll see roped rings, leather gloves and the various weight categories of the fighters. But Thai boxing remains anchored in its culture, and respect has to be given to the spirits who watch over the ring and the matches. There is a lot of tradition to be observed, and it’s not just a question of pummelling your opponent until he or she goes down.

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Before a Muay Thai fight begins there are some elaborate rituals that are performed, which date back centuries. Before a boxer enters the ring, he or she asks three times for protection, a prayer which is addressed to the three spirits who are in the boxer’s corner of the ring. Some fighters also touch the top rope as they go in. This is to ward off evil. Then there’s a special dance done to honour the teachers of Muay Thai, not just the fighter’s own teacher, but all of them through the ages. This dance is done on one knee and includes some very precise rocking movements 36 l www.samuiholiday.com

and is repeated in all the four directions of the compass.

Each fight is subdivided into five rounds, with each round becoming increasingly fast. You may well find the action too fast to follow with your eyes – and your camera may record just a blur. The blows are lightning-quick, with elbows, feet and knees all being employed to batter the opponent. The fighting is accompanied by a live orchestra that sets the tempo according to the pace of the battle raging in the ring – this

is improvisation at its best. It’s a combination of pipes, drums and cymbals that to most westerners sounds eerie and disquieting. It builds into a roar of music until the round comes to an end – marked by a bell that stops all action.

When you watch Muay Thai you’ll most likely be impressed by the sheer speed and nimbleness of the fighters. There’s all the grace you’ll find in a highly choreographed dance, yet there’s nothing set about the fight.

Movements are precise, targeted and devastating. Few people would disagree it’s an art form, not just a way of trouncing an opponent. It also requires an inordinate amount of toughness, discipline and, of course, sheer determination. As with all martial arts, training goes on forever; humility is required at all levels, and seems to be a quality that most boxers exude.

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To see some action for yourself, head for Phetch Buncha Samui Stadium (just off the Laem Din Market in Chaweng). There are flyers, billboards and speaker trucks making sure everyone knows about the upcoming fights. And if you’re interested in training for Muay Thai yourself, then there are plenty of camps on Samui where you can enrol.

Thai boxing may be centuries old, but it’s evolved into a modern cultural phenomenon, that just like Thai cuisine, is becoming ever more famed the world over. But Thailand naturally remains the epicentre, and boxers from all nationalities therefore come here to find the sport’s roots – and when you go and watch a fight, then in all probability you’ll see nonThai faces in the ring. Perhaps in years to come the sport will lose some of its ‘Thainess’, but certainly for the moment, it is gallantly managing to keep its rituals more or less intact, with Thai and foreign fighters alike keen to uphold all its traditions.

Dimitri Waring 38 l www.samuiholiday.com

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CULINARY CULMINATION The Cliff Bar & Grill’s not only high above the sea, it’s high on diners’ agendas.

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The treats and delights start at The Cliff Bar & Grill as soon as you walk through the door. The first of them actually has nothing to do with either food or drink; it’s the restaurant itself; a workable mix of the chic and contemporary, with its spacious interior offering views out onto the extensive balcony and the sea beyond. The beautiful bay of Ao Tong Takian stretches out just alongside, with its palm-trees and incandescent strip of white sand that fronts some of the bluest waters around Samui.

Even if you’ve dropped in for the lightest of bites, the setting adds something really special to your experience at The Cliff.

The restaurant quickly gained traction when it opened in 2004, for its delicious fare. Not the kind of place to ever rest on its laurels, the food here is always impressive. Think Mediterranean and then think particularly exquisite. The select menu contains everything you’d need 44 l www.samuiholiday.com

from yummy starters all the way through to decadent desserts. And portions, by the way, are on the big side.

The restaurant’s headed by Chef Sergio Martelli, a veritable Italian maestro, who’s worked at some of the world’s best restaurants. He’s been working at The Cliff since it first opened. He’s able to produce great tasting food, and at the same time is opening to receiving diners’ suggestions. Incidentally he and his entire team are able to deal with food allergies, special diets and recommendations. The Cliff is therefore able to accommodate diners’ needs across the board. Sergio also provides gluten-free pasta.

At The Cliff the best ingredients possible are used. Some, such as the vegetables, are locally bought, and everything’s as close to organic as

possible. The Cliff also has its very own herb garden – so total freshness is de rigueur. Then there are the imported goods, and thankfully the costs for flying these over to the island are a lot lower than most people would believe possible. Beef, for example, is flown in from King Island, Australia, and we’re not talking about frozen-before-flight cuts; the meat is simply chilled as the travel time is so short. By the way, it’s first aged for three weeks, ensuring it’s highly tasty. It’d be difficult to get better quality than that. Meanwhile, seafood is caught and supplied on a daily basis and directly delivered to The Cliff by local fishermen – red snapper, sea bass and calamari are all caught from close to the restaurant, while other items are imported and these are all of prime quality.

Whether you’re at The Cliff for a lunch or dinner, many diners love one or other of the tasty salads that are bursting with freshness. Highly

recommended is the Mediterranean salad, with cheddar, cashew nuts and apple, or perhaps a chicken salad. For appetizers, many guests choose the Portuguese piri prawns or curried Goan ones – both versions add a hint of piquancy.

There are seafood platters including the spectacular ‘Jumbo Seafood Platter’. The word ‘jumbo’ really does sum it up; when the tray is carried though the restaurant to waiting diners, then people pause to watch its progress. It consists of Maine lobster, French fine-de-clair oysters and king crab legs, flown in from Alaska. It’s definitely a meal to linger over, even more so as it’s a dish for two. Or more. It’s that big. A diner just in from a triathlon might attempt to eat it single-handedly but would probably fail to finish.

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Meats are equally delicious with the house speciality a well-known Portuguese dish, ‘piri piri chicken’, which is prepared in special piri piri sauce and then grilled over charcoal. Also recommended is the Australian rib eye steak (330 g), or the highly delicious lamb chops from New Zealand – you get three of them, each weighing 100 grams.

Steaks and chops come with tasty sauces; choose between garlic, blue cheese, pepper sauce, BBQ sauce and mint sauce. Steaks are served with button mushrooms and fondant potatoes.

In addition to all this, The Cliff also has a traditional tapas menu. And it’s not a pallid imitation, but the real thing. That’s because the tapas selection was put together by a Basque chef who worked to Michelin standards in his home country. You’ll find traditional mouth-watering dishes such as ‘raviolis de rabo de toro’, or cow’s tail wrapped in ravioli – it’s cooked to perfection in a red wine sauce. Then there are ‘gambas alajillo’ or Spanish sizzling prawns, done in garlic and olive oil, ‘almejas con ajo fresco y chilli’, or fresh garlic and chilli prawns and the popular ‘navajas ajo jengibre y lima’, or razor clams with garlic, ginger and lime. The only difference between eating tapas here at The Cliff rather than in a neighbourhood restaurant in Spain is that the portions are bigger than they would be normally! Order dishes individually, or as combinations – it’s entirely up to you. Tapas is ideal whether you’re here in a group of friends or family or just come as a couple. Staff can give advice, too, if you’re unfamiliar with the dishes.

If the food’s excellent here, then so are the wines. You’ll see a floorto-ceiling wine cabinet that houses over 90 selected wines; The Cliff’s

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well-known for them and has won Wine Spectator magazine’s Award of Excellence. The magazine is a world-wide publication and gave the award to just over 2,400 restaurants dotted around the world. Merely to qualify for the competition, restaurants have to offer at least 90 wine selections, feature quality producers and be a thematic match to the menu in price and style. The lists must deliver a satisfying choice and variety to discerning wine lovers.

The restaurant may be laid-back, but as you can see from the above, both food and drink are taken very seriously here, and the entire team does everything that they possibly can to satisfy their guests. It’s hard to do The Cliff justice, and if you’d like to know more then you should check out their website. Here you’ll find the entire menu, and if you visit the restaurant’s Facebook page, The Cliff Samui, you’ll be able to see details about up-coming events. The restaurant is keen to promote wine nights, for example, where an importer will talk about his or her wines and guests can try them along with food, or cocktail nights that also feature top-notch food.

The Cliff is easy to find; drive south from Chaweng and it’s on the ringroad just a kilometre before you reach Lamai. You can’t miss it as there are no buildings either side. Because of the view, be sure to make a booking if you’d like to sit on the restaurant’s terrace, but in any case it’s always a good idea to reserve in advance. The Cliff’s open from midday daily until last food orders at 9:45 pm. Drinks continue till a lot later and on Friday’s DJs play in The Cliff’s air-con cocktail bar.

With so much going on, it’s not surprising that people head for The Cliff if they want to enjoy delectable food and drink in an amazing setting. The attentive staff are sure to give you a warm welcome and look after you in style while you sit back and let the restaurant work its considerable charms on you.

Dimitri Waring For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7744 8508. www.thecliffsamui.com

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UP, UP AND AWAY

Taking the scenic route across the mountains.

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Only a few years ago, it was almost impossible to do this. The interior of Samui was filled with tracks, none of which had been properly mapped.

They were frequently dangerous, and since only local people knew where they went, few people bothered with them. They were basically for agricultural access; most didn’t even go anywhere and you could follow some for miles and miles, thinking all the while that you’d arrive somewhere, only for them to stop dead.

Only one very basic track really made it across the entire island; it went from Maenam to Lamai. If your driving skills were superb, then you could get the whole distance. It started off deceptively easy, a broad track that led across flat land for some five kilometres. Then the going got tough; there were suddenly steep hills. By that time, most drivers wouldn’t want to turn back. It couldn’t be that hard. Could it? They’d usually find that the word ‘hard’ soon didn’t apply. More appropriate was the word ‘frightening’. Portions of the road were extremely steep and some of the steep portions contained ruts. Not just any ruts. These were crevasses

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and gullies that had been carved by torrential rains. If you jumped down into one, possibly to retrieve some part of your car that had been jolted off, you’d find it might be a metre or two deep.

But all that has changed. Over the years, the track was turned into a road, bit by bit, with teams starting both at the Lamai and Maenam sides and working inland. At first it was just a couple of kilometres that were completed, but in fits and starts everything was finally done. Now the road is finally concreted from end to end. It’s still quite obscure, but recently signs were placed on the ring-road indicating that there’s a short cut.

This is actually a bit misleading. It’s the same distance whether you drive from Maenam to Lamai via the ring-road or go over the mountains. It also takes equally long no matter which way you drive. But the ring-road isn’t half as scenic.

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To access the mountain road, start from either Lamai or Maenam.

Large, oblong white signs point the way. In Maenam, between the post office and the police station, you’ll see a turning into Soi 1 that marks the beginning of the drive. If you’re starting from Lamai, turn into the lane that leads to Tamarind Springs. (From Lamai there’s a further possibility: turn off towards the hills at the 7-Eleven on the hill that leads up from the main temple in Lamai, and then follow the small lane.)

Let’s imagine for the purposes of this article that you’re starting at Lamai and you’ve turned off towards Tamarind Springs. Now simply follow the lane as it meanders through low-density housing and then on through verdant fields, marked by very tall coconut palm trees. You might see the odd buffalo, but you’ll come across very little traffic. Cars are definitely a rarity, and more so the later on in the day you head along the road.

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Eventually, you’ll come to another signpost that states ‘short cuts to Maenam’; it indicates that you should turn right. The turning is just a few metres further on and you’ll need to slow right down as it’s a sharp turn. The new lane starts to rise, though almost imperceptibly. You’ll pass a small restaurant on your left where you can have a drink or a meal.

It’ll be your last chance for quite some way. Shortly after, on your right, you’ll see something quite unexpected - a book shop. It’s called Geko Gift Shop (sic) and has a variety of reading matter, all second-hand. It must be one of the world’s most isolated book stores. It looks out onto unspoiled scenery and is a good place to relax, if you need to. You’ll also be able to have a drink here.

Now get ready. It’s onwards and upwards – literally. The road is almost flat for just a short distance before there’s a seemingly innocent yet tight bend to the left which conceals the start of a savage two-kilometre climb that takes you up, up, up. It has everything the adrenalin-seeker could ask for: blind bends and sheer drops down into the valley below. If you’re the driver, don’t admire the view – don’t take your eyes off the road. The view is indeed stunning, but you don’t want it to be literally so as you plunge off the road.

As you reach the top of what is basically a high-altitude pass between two mountains, the view’s obscured as trees and greenery line both sides of the road. This is one of the highest accessible points on Samui and the temperature suddenly drops a few degrees as you pass through a manicured orchard before the road starts to go down.

Turn right at the sign-posted junction and you’ll drop down to a watershed. It’s not a good place to park even for a moment, but your passengers will be able to glimpse both the southern and northern coasts simultaneously. (If you’re the driver, then don’t even think about looking.)

The road now passes Treetop Tour Cable Ride before coming to a view point.

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Here, you can park your car and take some great photographs. You’ve come up one valley, and now another leads down to the sea. On the slope to the west you’ll see rainforest that must have been growing here for millions of years. You’ll also find a small sala, a shrine and just a few steps away, a solitary toilet bowl that has neither enclosing walls nor plumbing nor privacy of any kind. It seems to be for decoration only, though what decoration the view here needs is beyond anyone’s imagination.

Take a breather at the view point. The next bit is, well, treacherous. The road starts to slope steeply downwards and then comes a bend with a warning sign. Take heed: you’ll find the slope now plunges even more steeply downwards. Low gear and brakes are needed. There’s also a blind bend. And look out for cars coming upwards and motorbikes that have stalled on the gradient.

Once you’ve come down off this slope there’s some flat ground, marked by a small bar and restaurant, and then a slight rise with a treacherous bend to the left. Now there’s a gentle downhill slope and … flat land all the way to Maenam.

You’ll pass a small mosque on your left, a shrine to a buffalo on your right and then the island’s only paintball field, before finally emerging onto the ring-road, more or less in the heart of Maenam.

The road over the mountains is definitely a very picturesque drive, matched only in beauty by the southern loop of road that takes you from Wat Samut Tararam, close to Nathon, along the coast to Ban Hua Thanon. The mountain road’s highly recommended – providing you have the right vehicle and plenty of mountain driving experience!

Dimitri Waring

Psylo Full page

TINY TAO A look at one of the nicest little getaways anywhere; Koh Tao.

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Koh Tao is the third island that’s north of Samui, about 30 kilometres to the north-west of Koh Pha-Ngan, and about the same distance away from the mainland city of Chumphon as it is from Samui. It’s small, only around 21 square kilometres in all. It’s easy to wonder just how such a tiny island could have become probably more popular than the much larger Koh Chang (which has in excess of 250 hotels and resorts). But then all becomes clear when you realise that Koh Tao (in association with Chumpon) has now developed into one of the most popular diving centres in Thailand.

And also, interestingly, Koh Tao has a more colourful history than either of its two neighbouring, and larger, islands. It seems that European explorers mapped this part of the Gulf of Siam as far back as the late 17th century, with cartographer John Thornton dubbing the island ‘Pulo Bardia’. In 1852, the explorer Frederick Arthur Neale, describes the people and wildlife of ‘Bardia’. According to the account there were

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farms and even cows (!) in a village on the bay on the west side of the island. And he includes a somewhat imaginative illustration of showing huts and palm trees (although no signs of a dairy industry!).

It wasn’t all that much later when Thailand’s most beloved monarch, HRH King Chulalongkorn, Rama V, visited Koh Tao. He was an enterprising and forward-looking ruler, and the first of the Thai Kings to seek trade and diplomatic ties with western nations. He often went abroad for long periods and, on his return and prior to taking up his duties again in Bangkok, would take a two or three week break on Koh Pha-Ngan.

On June 18th, 1899, it appears that he sailed over to inspect Koh Tao. Already the island had become sparsely populated by nomadic Chinese trader-pirates and the name had changed, becoming locally known as ‘Turtle Island’ – in the Thai language, ‘Koh Tao’. Whether to mark the territory as Thai, or simply as a gesture – the reason is unknown – he left his monogram on a huge boulder at Jor Por Ror Bay, next to the island’s

main beach, Sairee Beach. This has since become a holy place and is still worshiped today.

In 1933 the island was used as a political prison. Conditions were harsh, as there was no natural water and nothing growing there apart from coconuts and fruit. And so, in 1947, Thailand’s prime minister ordered a stop to the use of Koh Tao as a prison and received a royal pardon for all prisoners there. They were returned to their families on the mainland, and Koh Tao became once again uninhabited. But as soon as this happened, two brothers from Koh Pha-Ngan, Khun Uaem and Khun Oh, sailed out and claimed the most fertile part of the island for their own, even though it was still under Royal Patronage. They brought their families over and began to cultivate their patch, thus forming the first generation of the present-day community.

It was in the 1980’s not long after Samui was ‘discovered’, that the first travellers came across Koh Tao – “a gorgeous, untouched island paradise”. There was no ferry service (certainly no airport, not even on Samui) and the journey was an adventure in itself, haggling to negotiate a trip in one of the ‘long-tail’ boats from the neighbouring islands to get there. And, over the years, Koh Tao’s reputation as a diving, snorkelling and beach destination continued to grow steadily. Initially everyone went purely for the diving: even all the dive schools on Samui took their customers there, and still do. The area around Tao in particular, and in-between there and Pha-Ngan in general, was not only teeming in every sort of marine life but there were also numerous wrecks to explore.

Today it has emerged as one of Thailand’s prime island destinations and has become one of the top diving location for PADI scuba certification in South East Asia And, as the island grew in popularity, so the associated amenities of guest houses, resorts, restaurants, bars and shops appeared. Dive packages which included accommodation abounded. Only a few years ago, there was little in the way of night-life. Divers take their activities seriously, and an early night was the order of the day! But today more and more people are now venturing there simply to enjoy a quiet and comparatively unspoiled beach holiday. The number of bars and restaurants have increased, and some notably-up-market resorts have sprung up. Although there as yet no 5-star names (and that’s possibly one of the attractions for many visitors) there are several dozen which are rated in the 4-star bracket. Plus, of course, there’s everything in-between, from budget family accommodation through to huts on the beach.

Some say that Koh Pha-Ngan today is like Samui used to be 20 years ago. If that’s the case, then Koh Tao can’t be following all that far behind. It hasn’t sprouted ATMs and 7-11s on every corner, that’s for sure. Yet it probably has all the amenities that most people could ever want. All-in-all, Koh Tao has developed into one of the nicest little getaways anywhere!

Rob De Wet 58 l www.samuiholiday.com

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ZONING

OUT

With lush gardens and exotic treatments, life’s looking very laid-back at Eranda Herbal Spa. You might think that relaxing by the pool in your resort or sunbathing on the beach is just about as relaxing as life could possibly get. Indeed, it’s hard to beat, and a few days like this can do much to ease away months of stressful living. But when it comes to being truly laid-back, you can go still further – and in a shorter space of time.

That’s where spas enter the scene. They’ve been popular since Roman times, and the 20th century saw an even bigger jump in their popularity. These days you can find spas just about everywhere. On Samui you’re probably just minutes away from one. There are scores of spas here and many are certainly good. They’re brilliant at helping you to de-stress and bring you further in your journey towards being relaxed.

At Eranda, that journey is an even more satisfying one. That’s because the people behind the spa have poured a lot of love and passion into making it a sublime experience. For a start, even before you arrive they can help you relax. How on earth is that possible, you may wonder? Well, if you phone them first, they’ll provide a complimentary round trip transfer from Chaweng, Choeng Mon, Bophut and Big Buddha. This ensures that you arrive without feeling frazzled by the traffic and having to find the way yourself, though that’s not difficult to do; Eranda is located less than two kilometres north of Chaweng, as you head along the beach road.

Spa purists may think that because it’s so centrally located it’s going to be one of those urban affairs – plenty of concrete to keep out the traffic noises and bunker-like treatment rooms so you can finally enjoy some hard-won privacy. But Eranda’s not like that. In fact it’s the very opposite. It’s extremely green. Imagine a giant garden with a view of the sea just a few hundred metres away. That’s Eranda. It’s located on a hillside that’s been entirely given over to one thing only: your relaxation.

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It’s a botanist’s delight, and Eden-like to say the least. Trees, plants and shrubs are all in profusion here. There’s even a little stream that runs down the slope. Just being in the garden is relaxing in itself – you wouldn’t actually need to do anything else.

But the packages at Eranda are there to take you further still. And that journey begins with the reception area, an open-sided thatched sala where you’ll be taken when you arrive. Here you’ll be greeted by a smiling receptionist and given an ice-cold ginger and tamarind juice drink to enjoy. It’s just one out of many examples of the attention to detail, hospitality and service that you’ll receive during your time at Eranda. Such personal consideration is an integral part of the overall service provided.

The next thing you’ll need to do is to go through the spa menu and choose what treatment or package you’d like. There are many on offer, and the very friendly and helpful spa assistants can give you expert advice.

Eranda’s newest package showcases just what they can do. It’s called the The Ultimate Ayurvedic Shirodhara Package. The word ‘Shiro’ means head and ‘Dhara’ means ‘flow’. Shirodhara is one of the most popular

Ayurvedic therapies in India and has been used for many centuries to promote general well-being.

This treatment is composed of 15 minutes of a relaxing and warming back massage, then a whole hour’s worth of the Eranda Signature massage, followed by almost another further hour of Ayurvedic Shirodhara massage. It’s a delicious procedure and takes place in one or other of the very private massage pavilions. These are dotted around the garden and are as luxurious as any room at a five-star hotel. They’re contemporary, spotlessly clean throughout and air-conditioned. Again, everything’s been thought out in detail, allowing you to enjoy your experience here. And no matter what treatment you choose, when you arrive, you can take a shower beforehand.

Each of the highly skilled therapists have been trained at Wat Po, the world-famous massage school, and without a qualification from here, it’s not possible to start work at Eranda. And that’s just the beginning. Then comes further training, and only when this is complete and the trainee has demonstrated their skills to the owners themselves are they allowed to begin. There’s a fully qualified, resident massage trainer/assessor working at Eranda Spa to ensure that all treatments and techniques remain true to tradition. www.samuiholiday.com l 63

As you can see, these are not just routine massages. And there’s a whole range of exciting options with treatments of every kind on offer; you can choose between various massages: hot stone, ancient Thai, hot compress, then there are also body wraps and scrubs, herbal steam sessions with plunge pool, and wonderful packages that can last from a couple of hours to over four.

After the treatment is over, your masseuse takes you back through the gardens to the reception sala where you’ll be served a delicious tea along with refreshments. By this time you’ll be feeling totally relaxed, and when you’re ready the driver will take you back again to your hotel or villa.

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Or maybe you won’t be going back to your hotel at all? An extremely popular option offered by Eranda has nothing to do with treatments or massages or packages. It’s all to do with convenience. Many of the guests choose to book a spa session just before they’re due to fly out of Samui. It enables them to have a last holiday treat. They take advantage of the complimentary round trip service mentioned already and are picked up from their resort, along with their luggage, brought to Eranda for their treatment or package, and when finished, they’re whisked away to the airport. Call it style – this is definitely the coolest way to leave the island; totally blissed-out and relaxed. What could be better?

Eranda is now in its 15th year of operation, and even though it’s one of the longest established spas on the island and has a niche of its own, it’s

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still totally dedicated to quality and to providing all its guests with an experience that they’ll want to repeat. With its garden setting and professional masseuses, you’re guaranteed an excellent time here. Whether you’re brand new to Thai massage or an old hand, you’ll certainly enjoy what Eranda has to offer.

Are you ready for a brand new dining experience?

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Daily happy hour with buy one get one free on selected drinks from 2pm until 7pm.

Dimitri Waring

______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7730 0323, 0 7730 0321 or 0 983 291 445. www.erandaspa.com

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MAGICAL NAMUANG

If you’re up for a hike, you’ll be rewarded by the 80 metre high Namuang waterfall.

In Buddhism, waterfalls symbolise the fact that we are always moving. Water symbolises purity, clarity and calmness, and reminds us to cleanse our minds to attain a state of purity. Maybe that’s why it’s not just tourists who flock to the waterfalls on Samui.

Namuang Falls are a majestic set of two waterfalls off route 4169, between Nathon and Hua Thanon. From Nathon, drive south for roughly 11 kilometres until you see the signed entrance to the falls. The park entrance sits about one kilometre up this road. The first waterfall is just a short walk away, but if you want to see the second one you’ll have to negotiate a rather more challenging 30 minute hike. Once you’ve seen this beautiful oasis, you’ll see that Samui has more to offer than just beautiful beaches.

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The name ‘Namuang’ translates to ‘purple’ in English, and refers to the striking purple colour of the rocks that form the stunning backdrop to these waterfalls. There are a few other pathways to hike along, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find some spectacular rock formations here too, so remember to pack your camera.

The first waterfall called Namuang 1 and is around 18 metres high. Just follow the natural pathway and steps to the base of the falls. It flows into a large pool, and the icy cold water is always perfect for a swim on a hot day. Do watch out for hidden rocks while swimming and don’t jump into the water just in case they make themselves known to the bottom of your feet.

Once you’ve enjoyed your swim and cooled off, you can prepare yourself for the 30 minute hike to the next waterfall, Namuang 2. It’s the highest waterfall on Samui, falling from an impressive 80 metres. That’s 24 stories which is pretty high!

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chef’s dinner specials

Overseeing the culinary team at Hansar Samui, born and raised in Montreal, Canada, Chef Stephen began his culinary career at the famed restaurant Les Halles in Quebec, one of the most outstanding independent restaurants in Canada.

A unique opportunity to be the Private Chef to His Majesty the King of Jordan became a turning point in his career and he spent the next two years catering for the Royal Family.

HANSAR

Stephen spent the next five years at the Lebua at State Tower Bangkok (known as the Dome) and within a few years became the Executive Chef at the Sirocco restaurant.

At our beachfront H Bistro restaurant, Stephen has created a unique epicurean experience for guests where they can appreciate the authentic taste of French Mediterranean Cuisine, in addition to a Thai menu.

Stephen Dion “an epicurean experience one shouldn’t be missed”

H Bistro at Hansar Samui 101/27-28 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui +66 77 245 511 www.hansarsamui.com

There’s no entry fee for the falls so be wary of local ‘guides’ trying to ask for money for access. If they offer to lead you there, politely decline, the route is easy to find on your own. The site has many little shops selling souvenirs, snacks and drinks at reasonable prices. There is also a restaurant. Make sure you buy food and drink before you start your hike as there isn’t anything available further up.

Bring your swimming gear and comfortable walking shoes. The tree roots and the surrounding rocks form a natural staircase leading to the base, but it can be steep and slippery so make sure you take care while you walk. Stop often and admire the stunning views of the jungle and the lush vegetation. Don’t underestimate how much drinking water you’ll need - walking uphill in heat and humidity has the tendency to make you sweat more than you can imagine, and you risk becoming dehydrated, even if you are protected from the sun by the jungle canopy.

The best time to visit these falls are in the rainy season from September through to December. The rivers will be at their fullest and the waterfalls at their most beautiful, powerfully cascading over the rocks. Because of the uphill route needed to get there, this waterfall is less touristy, which means you can enjoy the panoramic views of the forest and cascading water, in relative peace.

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Between the two waterfalls is the Namuang Safari Park which offers many exciting holiday activities, such as elephant rides through the jungle; monkey shows (which are great for both adults and kids alike); quad bike rides through the jungle and its rivers; 4x4 trips around the island and cable rides through the treetops. Elephant rides are a perfect way to explore the surrounding jungle, and because you’re up so much higher, your views are much better than if you’d simply walked. There are so many activities in this area; you really would need a whole day (or perhaps even a few days) to fully appreciate everything. Most tour companies will collect from your hotel so don’t waste your hard-earned holiday money on expensive taxi rides.

So if you’re looking to see another side of Samui, don’t be afraid to head away from the beaches and see what’s on offer inland. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Colleen Setchell

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W WOW!

Blending personal attention with contemporary thought, the only thing you’ll hear at W Retreat is wow!

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Not that long ago, if you wanted to go 5-star on Samui, there weren’t many options. Plus, it has to be said, there was sometimes quite a difference in standards from one place to the next. It seemed that it was all too easy back then for resorts to say whatever they wanted – ‘5-Star’ included. So everybody all round just shrugged, shook their heads and said “never mind”. There was no other choice.

But today a quiet “wow!” is in order. There are still places that make all the right noises about customer care but can’t back it up – just take a stroll around TripAdvisor and see what I mean. But today’s good guys put them in the shade. There are now so many truly excellent resorts that choice is still a problem; but this time around it’s the reverse! It’s tough to pick out the best.

But there’s not much doubt that up there on everyone’s list is W Retreat Samui. And W is unique. You’ll come across refined and gentile resorts with their elegant yet aging guests. And then there are party places, some of them trés chic indeed. But somehow W manages to generate an infectious energy, while at the same time making everyone, whatever their age, feel relaxed and in place, and that goes for families with kids, too.

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One of the reasons for this is that the W Group is now under the wing of one of the world’s most progressive and dynamic hospitality empires - Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide. And the visible spin-off from this is that firstly, all the staff at W are youthful, enthusiastic, and utterly committed. They’re cosmopolitan, travelled, educated and all speak excellent English. But it’s their vitality and ideas which filter through and down to ground level. Little things like the ‘Sweet Spots’ dotted around the resort, where kiddies can dip into cold water, fizzy drinks or ice cream as they pass. Or the uber-hip visiting international DJs. Or even the appointment of a resident music curator, whose job it is to compile the right sort of music for each area, or tour around making sure that the public areas all have the right sound levels, and so on.

There are two distinctively different ways of looking at W. Firstly you can perceive it in full bloom, as a guest staying there. Second, you can approach it as a visitor. In either case you’ll get a huge overlap of both personal attention and facilities pooling in the middle. You’ll share equally in the sheer delight of enjoying one of the finest ‘Japanese’ restaurants in SE Asia, the resort’s signature restaurant, Namu. In truth it’s actually ‘contemporary Asian’ cuisine, although it features many Japanese-based variations. I’m often asked to recommend restaurants,

and Namu is one of the first names that always come to mind.

But, then, the upper area in the region of the reception is simply stunning. Again and again, on TripAdvisor, and elsewhere, the vista has been proclaimed ‘the best in the world’. I’ve seen it a dozen times and it still takes my breath away. It’s an infinity pool in the sky, with the island of Koh Pha-Ngan beyond, and with four huge, circular, deep-dish padded mini-lounges seeming to float upon it. And this is also the home to Woobar with its range of fantastic cocktails.

W Retreat is unique in a geographical sense, too. Nearly all of Samui’s beachline is either straight, or curved into little coves. But this is probably the only place where a small narrow spur of land and sand pokes out into the sea. The resort more or less sits back on either side of this, the beach and the sea breaking up and complimenting the rising terraces of land above. There’s a super bar, Beach Grill, right on the beach, too, and not only can you pull in a menu of BBQ seafood and some exceptional burgers and other snacks, but it also has access to a partial menu at Namu, depending on what time of day it is. This is another superlative element here at W – wherever you are it seems that you can easily summon up some superb food.

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All 5-star resorts have some kind of activities menu. There needs to be something going on, particularly in the evening. But W never stops moving. There are regular weekly features, like ‘Monday Night Movies’ (a big screen right on the beach). Or the ‘Jazz Buffet’ every Wednesday evening. And more. But then there’s also a ton of extra-curricular events and visits –bands, groups and DJs, world-renowned mixologists, guestchefs, fashion shows, dance groups – the vibrations here never die down for a moment.

A few months ago a new cocktail program was created by the renowned cocktail professor from Holland, Jarl de Vries. These have now found a full-time home in W Samui. One place they can be enjoyed is Woobar, where you’re tempted-in by something different every evening of the week. On Monday it’s ‘Play Your Cards Right’. On Tuesday you can groove to Classic Funk, Soul and Disco. The next day is a wow – order your drink and flip a coin, get it right and the drink is free. Thursdays is ‘45 RPM’ with all the sounds on vinyl. Friday . . . forget your phone!

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phone alone. ‘New Boogaloo’ house music jumps up on Saturday, and you can see the week out with ‘Retox Release; Manicures and Martinis’ on Sunday.

If you’re now thinking about indulging yourself and staying here, all the information you need is readily online. As are all the one-off and regular happenings; documented on their busy Facebook page. But if you pop in for a while during the day don’t get caught unawares by the standing charge of 600 baht each, instantly offset against whatever you spend in the resort. Anyway that stunning view and the great big W will stop you dead in your tracks. And all you’ll say is “. . . WOW!”

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 5999. www.wretreatkohsamui.com

THE NEWEST

NORDIC Guaranteed confidence is what you get when you buy into New Nordic Group’s latest development, right on the edge of Lamai Beach.

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It was only a few years ago that apartment blocks appeared on Samui.

Sorry. Let’s get it right: condominiums. And at the time, they were generally regarded with suspicion. People watched and waited to see what would happen. Of course, you have to keep it in mind that other big centres like Phuket and Pattaya went down this path a long time ago. But Samui has always been different. For a start it’s an island with a mountain, and that makes people think twice about building inland; it’s expensive. Secondly, apart from one or two areas like Chaweng and Lamai, it’s still a lot more rustic than most other tourist areas.

But it worked. Quietly and unobtrusively, discreet little condominium blocks appeared tucked away here and there. And not only were they

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rapidly snapped-up but, more importantly, demand was high for re-sales, too, and waiting lists appeared – particularly for those which had inhouse amenities like pools, a gym, a café or shops and a good location.

Done properly and done well, there’s scope for more projects like this.

People have gained confidence in the idea. But are they confident enough to invest in this kind of project? It’s one thing to form a queue to wait for units in an established condo to appear on the market. But it’s quite a different thing to be first in line on a new development that’s yet to be built. Right away there are questions. Who is the developer? Are they experienced? What’s their track record like? Have they got other projects I can look at? Can they navigate their way through all the red

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tape and legalities in Thailand? And that’s just for starters.

Because then there’s the question of money. It can be a big leap of faith to buy off a plan. Not only do you want some reassurances, but you’re hoping for reasonable terms, too.

Certainly if you’re looking for an investment property, you want the best rates you can get. But if you’re looking to actually live there, even if for only part of the year, you’ll still want a good deal.

At this point, I’d usually go on to talk about the developer and their track record. But that can wait for a moment, as it’s already a given. Tried, tested and trusted already. So onto their proposal.

Located on Laem Sor Beach

Connect with our team!

t: 077 920 090 | e: info@samahitaretreat.com

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You pay a deposit of 50,000 baht. Then a payment of 35% of the purchase price when you sign a contract. When the foundations are being worked on, you pay another 20%. When the shell of the building is being constructed, a further 15%. When the roof goes on, another 20%. And the final 10% is due when the building is completed.

But – and this is what makes the project unique – the immediate thought here is that it’s going to take time. You’re investing in something, and paying out money periodically at each stage of the construction, but getting nothing back. Well, with other companies, maybe. But with New Nordic, as soon as you pay your deposit (into the Thai bank account which they will set up for you) it sits there earning 3%, and that goes for the all other money you pay in too, right up until the building is completed. It’s one of their guarantees.

Another guarantee is that once it’s complete, they will manage your condo and let it for you, at an annual return of 10% of your purchase price. (If you pay in full and not in stages, then you are guaranteed a full 10% per annum, beginning the month after your payment.) And they’ll continue to manage everything up to a maximum of 10 years. There is nothing for you to pay during this time: management, maintenance, repair and refurbishment are all in the background. (The only thing you’ll pay is a small annual maintenance fee, which is shared 50-50 between you and New Nordic, and which is determined by the size of your condo.)

And then, at the end of that time, you have a choice. They will guarantee to buy it back from you at the price you paid for it. Or, if you want, you can put it on the market yourself. Or, you can decide to come and live in it – a popular option for those who are coming up to retirement age.

In which case New Nordic will refurnish, re-decorate and renovate it throughout, all at no cost to you. Amazing!

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Another point, and this is where Jan Nuijten, the Samui General Manager, has something to say, “We offer guaranteed terms which are unbeatable and have stood the test of time and been made real over and over again. New Nordic has been long-established in the area around Pattaya, and we’re running over 40 buildings there now. This is our first venture onto Samui. But we have a rule: never buy cheap land in the middle of nowhere. Go for the best right away, even if it costs more. That way our condos are constantly in demand and everyone’s investment is maximised.”

And you can’t get much more prime than the unobtrusive plot of land that’s now levelled and ready in Lamai. The ‘Round Bars’ with their lady boxing ring is a Samui landmark, on the main road through the middle of ‘Lamai Town’ and just a few hundred metres from the beach. A little way behind this spot will soon appear a really pleasant low-rise group of condo-blocks, unseen from the main street. There will be a luxury hotel, too. Construction is starting in December of this year, and the completion date is expected to be in May 2018. (Note: all previous projects have been completed on time – yet one more assurance.)

I’ve spent less time talking about New Nordic’s reputation and track record than I intended, but they’re a dynamic and successful group, and well established. So I’ll leave it to Jan to have the final word. “Samui is a lovely place, mostly unspoiled; and it’s a popular destination. In just three months of announcing this project, already we’ve sold 35% of the units.

We need to let Samui know what’s happening – it’s the newest Nordic, and no doubt at all it’ll be one of the best!”

Rob De Wet

_____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7742 3892.

Facebook: newnordickohsamui

Let Waterline’s menu take you on a journey. Globally inspired, highlighting seafood, meat and poultry the menu is infused with our chef’s worldwide culinary passion. The menu will delight the palate while evoking words, thought and memories.

Come and visit Waterline to experience a journey on a plate.

Manathai Koh Samui Samui Ring Road Lamai Telephone 0 7745 8560-4 www.manathai.com Serving daily between 11:30am – 10:30pm

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NEW WAVE

IMPIANA There’s a quiet revolution happening in our top resorts – we visit Impiana Samui to see what it’s all about.

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Five-star indulgence. The very best of world-class service and attention.

To some people it’s what they expect, and they think nothing of it. But for most of us it’s a treat. It’s a luxury we regard with respect, if not a little awe. It’s for special occasions; birthdays and anniversaries, only once or twice a year. Why? Because of the cost, of course! Whether it’s a weekend away, or a sublime meal at a top restaurant, the best of the best is expensive – it doesn’t come cheap at all.

leading hotels. Of course we are expensive, what would you expect?

And of course the gourmet meals prepared by our international chef are also expensive.” But the alternative thinking is: “. . . we might be a 5-star resort with 5-star service, but why not charge sensible prices for the gourmet meals prepared by our international chef? Because that way we’ll get a whole lot of people coming in from outside to eat, as well as our in-house guests.”

How many of you reading this are nodding your heads? It’s true enough, isn’t it? Well, actually, it’s not. Not anymore. Because today, a whole new way of looking at things is beginning to emerge. Maybe not when it comes to accommodation; that’s something different. But with the 5-star super-eateries attached to those big, expansive resorts, then yes. Some of them, anyhow. Although, it has to be said, right now things are still in a state of flux.

And that’s exactly what’s been happening at Impiana Samui Resort. For some years now these guys have been at the forefront of the new wave of ‘accessibility thinking’ that I’m talking about. And that includes the actual resort, in its totality, too. There are some very strict conditions if you want to be graded at a 5-star rating. This takes into account the ratio of staff per guest, whether you have crystal glassware in the restaurant, the minimum permissible floor area for each room, and a myriad of other aspects. But this new wave thinking applies across the board.

So, for example, if your rooms are two square metres smaller than the requirement for a 5-star rating, then why not run your (therefore) 4-star resort in 5-star style. Pre-booking profiles for the guests, pillow and bed-

It’s all about food and drink. The F&B departments in resorts are a totally separate entity when compared to the other areas. And there are two ways of looking at this. The first is to say “. . . we are one of the world’s

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Nora Buri SH Sep - Oct 2015

B a r g e & Te r r a c e

Fine Beachside Dining at The Rice Barge & Terrace Authentic Thai Cuisine Daily A La Carte and Thai Set Dinner No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Rice Barge & Terrace

linen menus and a choice of room-slipper styles. Intensive ongoing staff training with English lessons, and a constantly available enthusiastic Liaisons Officer who does nothing but go round helping guests? Plus of course a top-notch gourmet restaurant, but one with sensible, affordable prices.

The food and drink prices at Impiana are truly shocking. There’s a huge selection of different styles of food to go for, ranging from a steak sandwich (imported Australian beef) to an evening dinner with a full seafood BBQ on the beach, a prime Aussie tenderloin or huge lamb chop. The menu is International/Thai and includes pasta and pizza dishes plus a full range of veggie dishes, too.

But the jolt is the cost. It’s 5-star attentiveness and 5-star customercare. But a big burger with sides costs 160 baht, a prime-steak sandwich is 180 baht, and the most expensive item, the Aussie 6-oz tenderloin, comes in at an outrageous 780 baht. See what I mean? Shocking!

Rice Barge & Terrace Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: ricebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

So far, the scene I’ve set is reason enough to haul yourself over to Impiana post-haste. Or to drop in while touring past – its frontage is right on the main road in Chaweng Noi. But the icing on the cake is the beach frontage. There’s a shady little beach bar right on the sand, butting against the resort’s rear terrace. There are tables on the beach here, under the bar’s canopy. Or you can go up a few steps onto the restaurant’s outer terrace. But the absolute kicker is the rooftop setting above the beach bar. Not only is it (and the bar) built around a gigantic tree which shades most of this area, but it has a panorama along the beach and over into the neighbouring Chaweng Bay. It’s gorgeous in the daytime – plus there’s a ton of space to park at the front of the resort. But it’s even better at night, with the spangled shimmer of Chaweng mirrored in the water. And then . . . there are the happy hours!

The happy hours are unbeatable, and you should plan your visit to match. Between 12 noon and 2:00 pm, beers and cocktails are ‘buy one get one free’. That means that the Chang beer here is the same price as most street bars: 70 baht a bottle – even cheaper if you go for Chang on draft with ‘buy-2-get-1-free’. But come for the beach BBQ around sunset (happy hour is 5:00 pm to 7:00 pm). Now you’re rocking – all sorts of fish (snapper, seabass, salmon), plus lobster, king prawns, squid, crab; sold by weight. And – get this – cooked and presented any way you want. With salad and fries. Sweet and sour with rice. Deepfried with garlic and pepper. With tamarind or any sort of curry sauce.

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And also the presentation includes the soup of the day and whatever you want from the salad bar, too. No hidden costs. Happy hour drinks. But also a plate with say, prawns or squid, and including soup and salad, is priced to begin at 200 baht. Or you can sit under the stars and have a burger. Or anything from the à la carte menu. All this and there’s also a discreet two-piece band, too, six nights a week. The Beach Bar closes at (yes) 1:00 am, and last food orders in the restaurant are at 10:30 pm.

The hugely approachable General Manager here, David Xavier, also tells me that he’s setting up something really special for Christmas and the New Year celebration. But I’m writing this in October, and it’s all still in the planning stages – although it will be posted on the resort’s website later in the year. Make a note of the website address. Write it down and tape it to your fridge. And then take a look at their website closer to the date. It’ll be special. And it’ll be right in tune with that new wave of Impiana hospitality!

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7744 8994. www.impiana.com.my

Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Villas 154 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: +66 77 231 500-8 Fax: +66 77 231 520 Email: booking@baanhaadngam.com, www.baanhaadngam.com

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Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500-8

‘PAIRED’ AT

SHERATON Wine-pairing, of course – but you also have to sample the beer-pairing at Sheraton Samui Resort!

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Sheraton has always been a name to inspire respect. And Sheraton Samui Resort is no exception. Located just a 15 minute drive from Samui International airport, it’s very close to the heart of things, nestled in the warm and white sands of the magnificent Chaweng Noi Beach, right next to the neon tussle of Chaweng Bay itself. Of course, it’s undisputedly 5-star, as you would expect. And it’s set surreptitiously on a canted hillside, immersed in lush tropical gardens and rising above the crystal blue water. Each room is designed in a light and inviting style, featuring the ‘Sheraton Signature Sleep Experience’ bed, with luxurious sheets, pillows, and custom mattress. The warmly decorated bathrooms feature a separate shower and bath tub with a large window, and these rooms are fitted with every concession to a luxurious stay that you can imagine.

But that’s far from all. The resort features a fresh water pool with its own Jacuzzi, a sea water pool facing the ocean, a fitness centre with gym and workout room, a tennis court, an outstanding spa, and no fewer than four restaurants and bars, where you can discover a culinary explosion of authentic flavours, tastes, and varieties of cuisine, combined with unique cooking features and welcoming social events.

For the daily run of things there’s the elevated and airy Coco Spice restaurant; the place to be where guests avail themselves of the sumptuous breakfasts for which Sheraton Samui is renowned. It also offers a wide variety of bakery, international and Asian favourites. Lower down and accessed by a scenic buggy ride, there’s the elevated panoramic setting of Long Talay restaurant, where you can sample the freshest seafood, Thai and International dishes as the whitewashed woods and furnishings from natural materials conjure up images of your dream house by the sea. And then there’s the Blue Monkey Bar. This is the epitome of a laid-back beach bar, with sweeping ocean views.

Here you can assuredly relax on the wooden beachfront terrace and

enjoy a signature cocktail or cool beverage, as you admire the beautiful Gulf of Siam vistas. Not only is it an idyllic spot but it’s full of surprises, too.

Every restaurant worthy of note will offer wine-pairing as an intrinsic part of its service. But Blue Monkey goes one step further. Not only is it offering what they call “Paired” – a selection of ‘Small Plates’ matched with appropriate wines, but they are also pairing the same small plates with craft beers, too. Today there is a huge range of vastly different beers. And those same gourmet chefs who once spent hours mulling over wines, savouring and assessing each one’s bouquet, texture and after-taste, then pairing them with their own fine-tuned and custom-made dishes, are now turning their talents to beer as well.

Andreas Schimanski is the Director of Food & Beverage at Sheraton Samui Resort. His attentiveness has led to some innovative improvements and inclusions in the F&B presence, in particular the Blue Monkey Bar. This tropical beachfront venue has been reinvigorated with an enticing food menu and an equally inspiring drinks and cocktail list; courtesy of internationally celebrated Executive Chef, Franz Estermann.

With these two gurus working together, Sheraton Samui has come up with a really top-notch selection of local and imported craft beers, each of them matched to one of the ‘Small Plates’. In truth these are more than you’d expect with a tapas, and about the same quantity of what you’d usually get as a starter prior to a main meal. Put three or four of them on the table with matching beers and that’s plenty-enough for a couple of people, either as an engagingly-different afternoon nibble, with one or more of the Custom Bar Snacks. Or even in combination with a main dish from the à la carte evening menu.

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“This has been an interesting challenge,” recounted Chef Franz. “Wines are generally more subtle in their variations. That means I have to match this with tiny hints and tones of complementary and contrasting flavours and ingredients. But some of these beers are much more robust. This gives me more scope when creating a food pairing. But it also makes me spend more time on each, as there are so many possibilities to experiment with.”

That being said, Chef Franz has done an admirable job. The ‘Maple Baked Salmon with Avocado and Shredded Seaweed’ is smooth and tantalising and is perfectly complemented by the Australian Chandon Brut NV – its bright and fresh fruit bouquet of pear and nectarine and the hint of savoury nuts compel you to sip and nibble incessantly. Or if you swing more towards a red, then search out the ‘Cabernet Sauvignon Altos del Plata’. It’s robustly red and fruity with hints of white pepper, and it simply hugs its paired ‘Mini Beef Patty with Asian Coleslaw and Rice Crackers’!

But then there are the pairings with the craft beers. “It’s not been easy to collect all these craft beers together,” enthused Andreas. “And as far as I know we’re the only place on Samui which offers a permanent menu of paired beers and food. We now have eight craft beers on our Paired menu, and with more soon to come.”

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Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng Center Chaweng Beach Road, opp. Chaweng Buri Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng South at Chaweng Cove Resort Noori India - Central Festival at Chaweng Beach Road

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So it’s a double whammy! Wine or beer? How about sipping appreciatively at the Chalawan Pale Ale? It’s one of the few that have been crafted in Thailand, and has a smooth fruity flavour with an underlay of lychees, and a crisp carbonation that doesn’t fill your mouth with froth. Mix it in with the ‘Pomelo Salad with Soft Shell Crab and Micro Greens’. The semi-sweet tang of the pomelo melds superbly with the hint of lychees, but the soft texture of the crab plays-off against the satisfying mouthfeel of the beer in a way that’s no less than sublime. It’s just perfect!

Whether ‘tis nobler to wine or to beer – that’s the question!

But whatever your penchant, all you need to do is head out of Chaweng towards Lamai, and the Sheraton Samui is just about the first thing you’ll find after you come out of Chaweng onto the ring-road. A day trip or a night trip – either way, whatever sort of pairing you want is up to you!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2020. www.sheratonsamui.com

For reservation (English) 0 867 407 873 or 0 7730 0757 For reservation (Thai) - 0 839 687 912 E-mail: nooriindia_samui@yahoo.com www.nooriindiasamui.com

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CUTTING

IT FINE

Taking a look at what makes the fruit carving class at Hansar one of the finest around!

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Things go in waves. Not that long ago, resorts didn’t have a ‘signature restaurant’. It was just a place to feed their guests – no matter how good it was. And ten years back, hardly any resorts held a Thai cooking class.

Now they all do. When some new thinking pops up, it spreads. Right now there’s a whole new – and really fun – thing coming out, and resorts are just jumping at it. But unlike Thai cooking, which all Thais can do as a matter of course, this one needs skill. It needs practice, and lots of it; although, it has to be said, it looks good at any level. It’s fruit carving.

Pause here and think for a while. In The West, Thai food is nothing new anymore. It’s a firm favourite. Even little local pubs run a Thai menu once a week. Therefore a great many of you reading this have already had a go at cooking Thai food at home. Probably quite a few times. In fact a lot of you are quite good at it, no doubt. Hold a party and cook-up Thai food, you’ll get thanked and patted on the back. But do the same thing with fruit carving too and you’ll bring the house down. All your friends can cook Thai food. But how many can carve up a storm with fruit and vegetables?

This is where Hansar Samui Resort & Spa surges to the fore. This elegant and low-key resort quietly opened its doors back in 2010. It was all very discreet because Hansar was comfortably, quietly and very selfassuredly 5-star and didn’t need to boast about it. There are 74 luxurious rooms and suites here, one of the best spas anywhere, a banqueting and conference suite, plus a fitness centre. And also a word-class restaurant by the name of H Bistro. It’s right on the edge of the sea, and on two floors, with a super seascape.

As it happens, there’s a good chance that most of you have been right next to Hansar without even knowing. Or if not, then you’ll be there in the next few days. Why? Because it’s in Fisherman’s Village. The thing is you won’t see it. It’s the very last thing along that beachfront strip, and set back a little way from the edge. Yes, you see the front corner of H Bistro perhaps. Or their nice little beach bar. But there’s a bit of a gap at this end, and Hansar’s kind of tucked away out of sight. But now you know where it is, don’t forget. Make a mental note.

The executive chef here, Stephen Dion, is similarly special. He’s a gentle man and unassuming. But he’s not only previously managed such exalted eateries as the five-star Lebua State Tower Hotel in Bangkok, but was also the personal chef for His Majesty the King of Jordan for several years.

He’s a perfectionist, and has brought together one of the best culinary teams on the island. But this isn’t about him; it’s about one of his staff, and a very good one indeed. Her name is Khun Kanchana Promsanit, but she’s better-known to everyone as simply Khun Kan.

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Unlike nearly all of the top kitchen staff on Samui, she’s a local girl.

And she’s not only picked up a twin university degree in Hospitality and Domestic Science, but she’s also built up quite an amazing accumulation of awards, prizes and medals for fruit and vegetable carving, through national competitions in Bangkok, Phuket and, naturally, Samui. Although you won’t appreciate her fully until you’re in one of her classes. At first she’s quiet and a little shy. But then, once she begins to work, something special happens. She’s one of those people who when she smiles, the sun comes out. She’s not physically big, but she seems to grow while she talks. It’s instantly obvious that she’s fully engaged in doing something that she’s not only very good at, but that she loves doing, too.

In any kind of a culinary class there are two things which make it or break it. The first is the location and how it’s all arranged – you don’t want to be facing a brick wall, for instance. The second is actually two things together: how good the teacher’s English is, combined with how well he or she is actually able to teach. This last one is vital. Just because someone’s an expert doesn’t mean they can explain how to do things

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(and this connects with the quality of spoken English, too). But when you come to Hansar for one of Khun Kan’s classes (she also runs the Thai cooking classes here) you’ll not even be aware of these aspects. She’s sensitive and aware, and will come to stand alongside you and guide you when it’s necessary, re-directing your actions with humour and a sympathetic touch.

As mentioned, H Bistro is on two floors. The Thai cooking class is held in H Bistro’s show kitchen, but the fruit carving goes on upstairs (in Chill Lounge) in the corner which overlooks the pool below, and has an open and sweeping view across Maenam Bay. And that’s another plus, as while the lower restaurant can get quite busy at times, it’s generally quiet up there. (Believe me, when you are struggling to get things right, you really don’t appreciate an audience!) And there’s a wide range of options in the 90-minute class, which, of course, you’ll need to have thought about and selected beforehand. There are seven possibilities in the ‘basic’ class. To give you an idea, you can opt for getting to grips with a tomato, a carrot, an apple, a cucumber or a beetroot (among

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others). This is good, as these are all things you’ll easily find back home. And then those gorgeous 2-tone carvings, in melon or papaya, take a little more effort, and qualify as ‘advanced’!

Classes are held every Saturday, Monday and Thursday, running between 2:00 pm and 3:30 pm. Afterwards, you’ll be presented with a special fruit-carving knife and a very professional-looking certificate. You’ll need to book at least two days in advance, as Khun Kan is kept busy with her classes. This is all really quite special, and a fabulous new skill to take home. Don’t cut it too fine – make sure you allow plenty of time to make a booking before you leave!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 5511. www.hansarsamui.com

PLEASE

DON’T! A short guide on how to spend time here without upsetting anyone – etiquette in Thailand.

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You’re in a mini-mart, waiting to be served. There are three people in front of you and, just as the queue moves up, the door ding-dongs open and a man crashes in. He shoves straight to the front and shouts at the girl on the till, “gimme a coke!” The question is: is this acceptable? Is this the sort of behaviour that most folks would just shrug off, unaffected, or is it what most would think of as infuriatingly rude? The point here is that social behaviour can be thoughtful and considerate, or it can be selfish and demanding. To some extent that’s a personal thing, but at least you know what’s going on, unlike in a foreign country with a different culture and traditions!

I think the keyword in both cases, at home and abroad, is ‘thoughtful’.

With maybe a touch of ‘consideration’ and a big spoonful of ‘unselfishness’! Thailand is a very conservative nation which cherishes long-held traditions. And it’s oh-so-easy for an unwitting stranger to put his foot in it. Worse, to end up in jail, which can, and sometimes does, happen. Take the concept of ‘rights’, for instance. In your own country 104 l www.samuiholiday.com

you have certain rights as a citizen. One of them is probably that of ‘freedom of speech’. You have grown up with the idea that you can say what you want about whatever you want – you’ve a right to your own opinion and you’ve the right to express your feelings and ideas. But it’s foolish of you to assume that those rights travel with you. Because in Thailand there will be occasions when they most certainly don’t.

One thing to be aware of is that it’s forbidden for a monk to have any contact whatsoever with a female. Please don’t sit next to one on a bus, even if it’s the last seat. And if you accidentally bump into one, don’t just say ‘sorry’, try to express concern as well, and ‘wai’ him respectfully.

(More about that ‘wai’ in just a moment.) Temples, too, are mostly sacrosanct little oases of veneration. Please don’t fool about or climb on any statues for photos! And, of course, both women and men should dress respectfully before entering.

At which point it has to be said that the Thai people are a tolerant

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race (well, of most things anyway) and they will benignly overlook foreign visitors who genuinely are confused or unsure of themselves. This is particularly true in tourist areas such as Samui.

But don’t expect all ‘wats’ (temples) to be as astonishingly laid back as, say, the temple at Big Buddha (Wat Phra Yai) where, it seems, just about anything goes. And this is in stark contrast to some government buildings on the island, such as the vehicle taxation office on the west coast, where you’re risking being turned away if you turn up in a skinny tank-top T-shirt.

And while on the subject of covering up (or not) please be thoughtful enough not to walk about semi-naked in public. It’s distasteful to see people in brief swimwear sauntering around Tesco Lotus as if they were still on the beach. Thai people are modest. They will even mostly go swimming in the sea fully clothed, and they certainly find topless sunbathing offensive, unless it is perhaps attempted discretely.

Be aware also that the Buddhist belief is that the head is the most sacred part of the body and the feet are the most unclean. There’s a kind of no-go space 20 centimetres or so above people’s heads so try to avoid leaning over them and, on the beach, please don’t step over the head of anyone lying down. Or, for that matter, pat little kids affectionately on the head, no matter how cute they are. And, down at the other end, similarly be aware that putting your feet up on a seat or table or pointing towards others, is considered very low-class and uncouth, and to be avoided.

Finally, that confusing little gesture known as the ‘wai’. It’s the Thai greeting. They grow up it with it, and there is a whole realm of social conventions attached to it which visitors aren’t usually aware of, nearly all of it relating to social status. Firstly, play it safe and don’t wai someone unless they wai you first – that saves a lot off mild embarrassment all round! Never put your hands together right up in front 106 l www.samuiholiday.com

of your face or forehead in the ‘high wai’ - this is reserved for abbots and royalty. Instead, place your hands loosely together, relaxed, with your thumbs just touching the underside of your chin, and dip your head a fraction while still smiling and keeping eye contact. Finally, don’t wai children. If a doting mother prompts her infant to ‘wai the farang’, then respond by smiling hugely and dipping your head in acknowledgment, while keeping it in mind not to ruffle the kid’s hair in an affectionate manner!

Of course, there’s more. Whole books have been written on the matter.

But, with a little bit of common sense plus some thoughtfulness, at least you’ll now have enough info so that people won’t frown at you and say, “Please don’t!”

Rob De Wet

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MORE THAN MEDICATION Samui’s own chain of pharmacies, Morya, offers an unusually broad spectrum of products and services.

Holidays are partly about adventure, and challenging yourself to go and do something exciting. But there are certain adventures you won’t want to have, and one of these is facing a pharmacist who offers you, in a language you don’t understand, an array of medications that you’ve never seen before. Anyone who’s done any serious travel, or even just been a tourist in an out-of-the-way destination, will probably have wrestled with this problem. Maybe you have to gulp when you take the pill or swallow the medicine you’ve purchased, but how can you avoid that mental gulp?

Fortunately on Samui, pharmacies abound, and the island has its very own chain of them, known simply as Morya. Their branches are dotted around Samui’s populated areas, and most tend to be found on the ring-road. In other words, you’re never very far from one. There are 19 Morya pharmacies at the moment on Samui, but you’ll only find Morya here on the island, and nowhere else. Morya’s main office is located in Chaweng, and from there it’s a cinch to keep control over all the other stores and distribute products to them. You’ll find it opposite the PTT petrol station, about three kilometres south of Tesco-Lotus as you head toward Lamai. In addition, two new branches have recently opened; the first in Lamai, on the beach road, close to McDonald’s, and the other on the Chaweng Beach Road close to Ozo. Morya is highly recommended, and part of the reason is that visiting any of its branches definitely won’t turn out to be an adventure. For a start, the service is friendly and welcoming and the pharmacists all speak English. And if English isn’t your first language, they’ll probably be able to help you out with Google translations – these work surprisingly well for medical situations. And just in case you’re wondering, the pharmacists are indeed qualified, which is sadly not the case everywhere in the world. Every single branch has a pharmacist who’s permanently in residence. These are dedicated professionals who have a degree in pharmacy. Their studies of anatomy and physiology are on a par with the initial years of a degree in medicine.

At their fingertips they have a stock of some 4,000 medications. Some are overthe-counter, types while others are prescription only. In Thailand, you’re able to obtain more medication over the counter than in many other countries, so you may not need to visit a doctor in order to get a prescription.

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With the range of medication they stock, Morya will be able to help you in all sorts of situations, whether you have a grazed knee, a temperature, headache, diarrhoea, or have a blocked ear from swimming. They can also help out in more serious situations. They’re even able to dress wounds, and if you’ve had a motorbike accident, you’ll need daily wound dressing and can in all probability do this in the branch closest to you. The list of how they can help includes running an oxygen service and renting out wheelchairs, though hopefully, you’ll need neither.

They also stock traditional Thai medicines. You’ll find an extensive range, and the pharmacist will be happy to help you to choose one or other of them, if appropriate. These are medications that are trusted and valued by islanders, who swear by them.

In addition Morya stocks many vitamins and supplements, and no matter whether you’re looking for multi-vitamins or harder-to-find food supplements, you’ll find them here. Some of the supplements come from China. Take the reishi mushroom capsules, for example. These mushrooms have been widely used for the general promotion of health in Asian countries and are growing in popularity the world over.

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If you’re particularly interested in health and nutrition supplements or spa products you should head for Morya’s Greenhealth stores, which primarily focus on these ranges. Currently there are four Greenhealths, and you’ll find them at Tesco-Lotus in Chaweng, Samui Airport as well as two in Central Festival.

Morya stocks popular products from the Thai brand, Oriental Nature.

For example, you’ll find snail facial cream and serum, whereby the natural properties of snail extract help tone the skin. Both products help regenerate the skin, reducing scars, removing damaged cells and helping with imperfections and blemishes. Moisture retention is improved and the skin becomes soft and smooth.

You can also try a special product, Bee Venom Anti-Aging Facial Cream, which acts as a natural Botox for the face, leaving the skin pleasantly firm and giving it a youthful look. The bee venom stimulates the production of collagen which in turn boosts the health of the skin. It also reduces the appearance of dark spots.

In addition you’ll find an aloe vera and snail cleansing facial gel, which

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deep-cleans the skin and increases moisture content. And if you’re worried by the aging process, you might want to try Anti-Wrinkle Corrective Youthful Cream, a product that contains red algae extracts and is helpful in preventing the skin folds which cause wrinkles. The cream helps tighten the skin for up to eight hours and can even deal with existing wrinkles.

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If you’re on Samui and are looking for medications, cosmetic applications or health products then Morya will certainly be able to help you. Even if you just have some health worries, feel free to go along and speak to one of their pharmacists – if they can’t help directly, they’ll be able to advise who to go and see. Morya is highly popular on the island, and constantly strives to help all who walk through its doors.

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BY THE SEA

Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Villas is located in one of Samui’s most enviable spots and offers outstanding accommodation.

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If rooms could be straight-talking, then the sassy Executive Pool Villas and Executive Duplex Pool Villas at Baan Haad Ngam would qualify as opulent and luxurious, yet without even a hint of pretension. There’s no compromise on all the little things and grace touches that go to making a stay here a sheer delight – all those small details are just right – and yet when it comes to the big picture, these rooms stand out for simplicity, comfort and sheer stylishness. The rooms look bold, almost ballsy, with striking contrasts in the blacks, whites and deep browns used. And there’s more than a hint of minimalism in them, too. Think space, lots of it, and combine that with an uncluttered vibe that’s sure to please.

There’s a trio of Executive Pool Villas and each has an outdoor swimming pool with Jacuzzi which nestles into a small garden. These villas are ideal for lounging around in – there’s shade too, of course – and if it’s still too hot, then the refreshing air-con of your room is just a couple of steps away. Step inside the room itself and you’ll be loath to leave. It’s got everything that you could possibly ask for when it comes to a living space.

Equally well-crafted are the resort’s four Executive Duplex Pool Villas.

The level of comfort and luxury is identical and the design is much the same as the for Executive Pool Villas that we’ve just mentioned, but each 114 l www.samuiholiday.com

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duplex has a wonderful corkscrew staircase that winds up to its upper level, where you’ll find a roof-top pool, again with Jacuzzi, and views out to sea.

Both types of villas have king size beds, 55 inch large screen LED smart televisions, bathtubs, capsule coffee machines and tea service, rain showers, double sinks, safety boxes, designer toiletries, beach bags and sandals. In short, everything’s been thought out for your comfort and enjoyment. Naturally, internet is complimentary and is provided by LAN cable – both fast and efficient.

After a late night exploring Chaweng’s high-octane attractions, it’s a joy to head back just a few minutes to the resort. It’s handily located on a small turning off Chaweng Beach Road as you head towards Choeng Mon. Even though it’s still technically on the edge of town, it’s peaceful here, and your rooms are an oasis of silence and rest. The villas are almost right by the sea, safely tucked away at the bottom of the hill on which Baan Haad Ngam is situated.

The rooms are much in vogue amongst couples, especially those going on honeymoons or just indulging in a romantic break.

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The beach here is in the northernmost part of the excellent bay of Chaweng, which stretches way down to the south. You can see the entire sweep from Baan Haad Ngam, but the area immediately fronting the resort is one of the quietest parts as the bulk of the resorts are all further away. Paddle on the idyllic sands here at sunrise or sunset, and you’ll experience a delicious sense of quietness and the sheer romance of a tropical coast.

Book either type of villa and you’ll automatically receive a complimentary round trip transfer from nearby Samui Airport. Once your plane arrives, you’ll be picked up by the hotel’s guest service representative, so while you’re on the way to the resort, you’ll be able to have all your questions answered right then and there. Check-in is in the room itself – no need to go to the reception desk. Few visitors to Samui can say that they arrive in such style!

Fall upon your pillows in the villa of your choice and the ultra-comfy bed will guarantee the best of sleeps. And once awake in the morning, breakfast awaits just a short walk away in the resort’s restaurant, Olivio.

Breakfast here by the way is excellent. There’s the fullest range of food, Thai, Asian and western. That means that you can enjoy a host of delights from Chinese dim sum, noodles, Thai soups all the way through to typical international fare such as sausages, bacon and eggs, along with cold cuts and an unusually large selection of cheeses. Breakfast is from 6:30 to 10:30 am, allowing you the option to be an early riser or to come late. If you’re staying in one of the Executive Pool Villas or Executive Duplex Pool Villas, you can have fresh coconut juice, orange juice along with lattes, cappuccinos and macchiatos, all complimentary.

(And concerning drinks, it might not be something that you notice immediately but there’s no charge for the mini bar apart from alcoholic beverages.) It’s a favourite foodie spot for those who love Italian dishes and Thai – the restaurant prides itself on providing both and at the same impeccable level. You’ll probably want to come here for a lunch or a dinner, too – both are recommended. The restaurant is right by the sea.

If you’re coming as a larger group then you may want to opt for the Deluxe Pool Villas and have two, rather than one, as they interconnect, allowing you to have twice as much space, as well as a double swimming pool. Ideal for families with older children or for groups of friends, this option will allow you privacy as well as spaciousness. (It doesn’t include, however, free mini bar, round trips or complimentary drinks.)

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No matter what kind of accommodation you choose, the ultra-modern decor and feel of the rooms is complemented by truly Thai hospitality, which keeps Baan Haad Ngam rooted in a friendly, laid-back niche all of its own. A stay here is sure to be a happily memorable one with lodging, food, setting and service all being outstanding.

Dimitri Waring

____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information telephone 0 7723 1500-8. www.baanhaadngam.com

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ART AND

HEART Delightful, artistic, tranquil – Khwan Beach Resort is a luxurious hideaway that sets new standards of comfort and quality in Maenam.

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Boutique resorts are no new thing. But they’re like everything else. Just having the label doesn’t mean much. A top-end Toyota is a ‘luxury’ car, but then so is a Bugatti or a Rolls Royce. No, if we are to try and measure a resort, to evaluate it, to weigh what it offers against so many others, then we need more than just one word. ‘Boutique’ by itself is just doesn’t cut it. A whole sentence can’t even get close. You’ll need pages of words and photos that’ll walk you through and point things out - as I’m hoping to do here with Khwan Beach Resort.

This is a perfect example of the ‘3rd generation’ of Samui’s small highend resorts. The first wave appeared early on, around or not long-after the airport was built; European-owned, high-end Euro-quality bathrooms and fittings, plus a top restaurant with an international chef. The next wave was mostly low-budget copies (similarly calling themselves ‘boutique’) but suffering from bland architecture and uncertain staff with poor English skills. And then, inside the last decade, the current generation of boutique resorts began to appear. Chic, stylish, puttogether with flair, each with their own charisma. Some retro-nostalgic, some minimalist, others quirky and off-beat – all of them oozing personality, quality and luxury.

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Khwan Beach Resort – subtitled ‘Luxury Art & Boutique Hotel’ – is on the island’s north coast, just about as central as you can be in Maenam.

This coast is interesting. It’s probably the only remaining strip of beach on Samui that’s still mainly filled with end-to-end parcels of locally-owned land, on which there are still small resorts – a few of them even featuring some of those tiny thatched wooden huts which were home to wandering hippies in the 70s and 80s. But, ever-increasingly, here and there, it’s gone up-market. And this is personified by the artistic and visually delightful Khwan.

It’s easy to find – probably because it’s so hidden away! Meaning that because it’s not big and bold and bouncing out in full view, every internet reference to Khwan seems to include a Google map. The only word of caution here is that, unless you zoom right down to treetop level, the location appears to be close to Maenam’s Chinese temple, and it’s not actually that close (although you can stroll to it along the beach, if you don’t mind wading through some water!). However, it’s very easy to find. Locate the PTT gasoline station between Soi 3 and Soi 4 (where the traffic lights are). Facing PTT, look for the small beachside road on the right-hand side of it. Follow signposts for Khwan on the straight, small

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road for about 150 metres until you find yourself at the entrance to a lovely tunnel of bamboo trees that arch together over the road.

This is Khwan Resort, with the reception area and restaurant just on your left.

Most of my reviews at this point go into details of the accommodation, before taking in the other facilities and features.

But Khwan is different. If you look through their website there’s a lot of references to ‘art’, indeed it’s a part of the resort’s name.

This tends to convey the idea of a few sculptures and some paintings artfully dotted around the place, kind of added on when everything was finished. But as soon as you start to walk around here you’ll realise that the art is woven into everything, everywhere. It’s the core concept of the resort. I’m not talking about works of art or artefacts. I mean the essential beauty and harmony of the design and layout. Every space has been considered, thought about and worked on. Each new corner you turn reveals another essay in design sense.

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It might be panels of thick chunky bamboo, split and positioned with the hollow interior showing, contrasting and harmonising with rectangular insets of heavy black pebbles on the path beneath. Or a tiered vertical dark slate texture next to a slab of plain granite. Rough timber with bleached calico. The vertical walls of the houses being broken up by the closer planes of abutting rooms and balconies. And then the artwork that’s mixed in with this: one wall with a huge creeper, but the wall next to it with a painting of a creeper. More paintings, murals really, scenes and seascapes inset into walls. And then the traditional Thai carvings in low relief, set here and there, and the gigantic stone and ceramic pots . . . and that’s without talking about the superb décor of the pool villas!

There is a variety of villa styles here, all of them pool villas and not only luxuriously fitted-out but also simply rife with creative décor. (I’m not going to get all poetic again – just take a look around their excellent website.)

A number of these ‘villas’ are family-geared and are on two floors. There are even a couple which are right on the seafront. But here at Khwan the situation is blessed: they’re right on the edge of one of the major watercourses that drains from the hills into the sea. In other words, several of the pool villas have been built inclined towards the little river which runs alongside – there’s a maximum of privacy in the way that everything has been designed.

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But the finest small resorts have a restaurant to match, and Khwan is no exception. Khwan has MP. This is the creation of international awardwining chef, Mattias Pawlick. He’s something of a creative genius when it comes to his cuisine; it’s the result of his being brought up in Switzerland and training at the prestigious Swiss College of Hospitality Management. Since which time he’s been honing his art at top hotels and restaurants in Dubai, New York, Hong Kong, Sydney and Bangkok, before taking the post of Executive Chef at Zazen Boutique Resort & Spa here on Samui, last year.

The restaurant is easy to find, and is located just to the left of the reception area. It’s warmly-lit and with lots of little romantic nooks and crannies and, like everything else here, delightfully artistic in its décor.

The cuisine is ‘French Nouvelle and Thai/Asian Gastronomic’. It’s open from 7:00 am to last orders at 11:00 pm, and features regular live music – just call for more details.

Rob De Wet

_____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 625 650 796. www.khwanbeachresort.com

SAMUI ULTIMATE ENJOY THE VIEW • FEEL THE QUALITY • LIVE THE LIFESTYLE

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HILLTOP PROJECT 6 BREATHTAKING SEAVIEW PLOTS FOR SALE. UNIQUE 5 BEDROOM VILLA FOR RENT OR SALE & 3 BEDROOM VILLA FOR RENT OR SALE.

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30 STUNNING SEAVIEW PLOTS FROM 400 TO 802 SQ.M. OVERLOOKING CHOENG MON BEACH. EASY AND AFFORDABLE TO BEGIN CONSTRUCTION.

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19 SEAVIEW PLOTS FOR SALE (16 SOLD), 4 BEDROOM VILLA FOR SALE OR RENT & 1 BEDROOM VILLA WITH SWIMMING POOL FOR SALE OR RENT ALL PROJECTS HAVE ROAD AND ELECTRICITY IN PLACE

Plai Laem Soi 8, Choeng Mon, Samui, Thailand Contact : 081 537 3088 (Mr. Yo)

NARAI KIRI RESIDENCES

HILLTOP PROJECT PLAI LAEM PARADISE

sales@naraikiri.com yochaweng@hotmail.com www.naraikiri.com www.samui-ultimate-samui.com

KOH SAMUI www.samuiholiday.com l 123

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TIPS FOR

TIP$ All you need to know about tipping – when to do it, when not, and how much!

Life can be strange. Fifty years ago it wasn’t like this. But in today’s culture of instant everything, the edges have blurred. Two things have changed the world. The main one is the internet. And, linked in with this, there’s the sheer ease of international travel. And that’s not only the immediate booking of a flight to anywhere in the world from wherever you happen to be sitting, but also something as simple as paperless tickets, too: just produce your smartphone with the booking details on-screen.

But this all has a downside. Because it means that it’s more or less effortless for someone to zip away from their own land and culture and find themselves confused; a stranger in a strange land with different expectations and ways of life. It’s an in-built instinct to assume that everything’s the same there as it is back home. And it can come as a profound shock to realise that the police, the laws, the banks and even the ‘rights’ you assume you have are now suddenly all askew. And that also goes for the very ordinary day-to-day aspect of tipping.

Let’s take two extremes. The USA has a strongly ingrained culture of leaving a gratuity for everything that has an element of ‘service’ attached. Whereas in China, for example, as a visitor you’ll never have to tip at all, because the government policy of charging foreigners has an in-built extra for everything. This seems straightforward enough until you realise that the same is true in New Zealand, too. Here, nobody will tip – tourists and locals alike – as the service charge is built-in. But that brings us straight to the next point; the difference between being a local and a visitor.

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As mentioned, in some countries this makes no difference, yet in others it does. And in all honesty, you’ll just have to do your homework yourself and research the shape of the cultural landscape before you travel; just about everywhere is different. In some parts of Asia for example (Japan or areas of Indonesia) you’ll be regarded as a guest and cause embarrassment if you try to tip. But the same is true of most English pubs (although in this case you’ll just be thought of as half-way between stupid and weird!). However, in both of these instances there’s a common ground. If you feel the need to show appreciation, then offer a gift instead. A drink for the barman or a toy for the children. Because, with the exception of America, the international reason for a tip is to show appreciation.

Objectively the USA is the odd one out. As a pretty general rule of thumb, it’s only the poorer and less-privileged countries where everyone will expect or hope for a tip; it’s a necessity where most people have a low standard of living. But one of the most affluent nations in the world, America, has it both ways, as tipping is ingrained into the fabric of their culture. However, whatever country you are in, as a native or a visitor, there is one rule that’s universal. If you’re staying in a good hotel, you’ll be expected to tip, service charge or not. Waiters, concierge, bell boy,

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domestic staff; they’ll all be upset if you don’t tip them.

And that brings us to Thailand. The Thai people are not big tippers. In fact many Thai people think that giving free money away for nothing is totally crazy . . . but that won’t stop them accepting a tip if you offer one!

To that end, we now have to examine the concept of the ‘farang’. There are now hundreds of thousands of foreigners (farangs) living permanently in Thailand. Additionally, each year more than 10 million of us come for holiday breaks. To a large degree, the majority of Thai people don’t (or can’t) distinguish between the two – a farang is a farang, and it’s common knowledge that farangs give free money away. So, whether you’re a visitor or a resident, don’t be surprised if you are expected to leave a tip!

So what’s the score with Samui and tipping? Well, essentially, use your common sense. The ethos of big hotels has already been covered. But with smaller ones, express your appreciation appropriately. If someone’s particularly helpful, reward them. If it’s a family place then buy everyone presents when you leave. At the end of your stay, leave the girl who

KAYAKING Explore the caves and beaches of the Angthong National Marine Park Offices located behind Bondi Pub in central Chaweng and on Chaweng Lake Road opposite Lake View For reservations please call 0 7730 0615 or 0 878 866 097

www.bluestars.info

cleans your room all your unneeded small change in an envelope.

But bear in mind that nearly every resort (and restaurant) includes the service charge (tip) in with the bill, so you are not required to add any more to this. And also remember that at the end of the month this service charge money will be divided up among all the staff. So if you have a favourite waiter, make a quiet little private donation in person before you go.

And how much to tip? Well please don’t go crazy. If you’re eating in a little street restaurant, they’ll be delighted with 20 baht – 50 baht will cover a group of you. A top restaurant with no service charge? Between 10 and 15% is fine, and maybe 100 baht or so if service is already included. Massage or spa staff? Be generous; they earn very little. Perhaps the only exception is taxi fares. They already charge 400% more than the rest of the country (by far the highest rates in all of Thailand). So the final tip for you is, once again, to be thoughtful when tipping!

Rob De Wet

128 l www.samuiholiday.com

KANDA CANDOUR

A whole lot of reasons why not to stay in a hotel – a candid look at Kanda Residences in Choeng Mon.

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Unless you know the ropes, it can be a nightmare. But that’s quite normal. It’s the same for everyone, wherever they go. For the first time, that is. And most of that first vacation in a new place is spent getting the feel of it. There are now so many fine hotels on Samui that you’re spoiled for choice. But it all depends on what you want. If you’re young and fancy-free, you’ll head for the nightlife. If you’re a family, then you might go somewhere quieter. The same if you’re here with romance in mind.

But somewhere down the line you’ll start to think it all through. Hotels are costly. How about a rental? And that’s where Kanda Residences comes into the frame.

It’s by no means a new idea – renting a house or villa instead of staying in a hotel. And there are obvious advantages. Of course the main one is the cost: rather than staying in a hotel, it’s often cheaper to rent a house for a month and only occupy it for the two weeks of your stay. The other plus is that houses are rented as a unit, and not charged per head. And that means several friends or two families can share the cost.

One the other hand, there is a strong downside to doing this. It might be

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more expensive to stay in a hotel, but you’re on holiday. You’re here to get away from it all and take a complete break. You really don’t want to have to do housework and cleaning. What needs to be done with the garbage? What if there’s a power cut? In a hotel there’s always someone to help-out, solve your problems and offer information and advice – even saving the hassles of having to look for a car or motorbike rental. It’s just so much easier, especially if you’re not all that familiar with Samui.

Well, actually, quite a number of the top hotels are already offering this: private villas as well as their usual hotel rooms. But, as you might imagine, such 5-star hideaways come with 5-star prices attached.

Although there is one place that fits the bill. It’s not a household name, although it’s well-known on Samui. It’s totally private and less than a five minute drive from the centre of Chaweng. It’s essentially a hotel-quality service but applied to a villa. And its name is Kanda Residences Samui.

But, then again, you might think twice if there was a quality private residence – a nice little villa for example – that was set-up along the lines of a hotel. You’d want it private, that’s for sure, not overlooked, or with neighbours squashed-in on either side. And you’d need your own pool: there’s nothing finer than floating under a dark-velvet sky blazing with stars at midnight. Better still, not only a pool, but right on the beach, too.

The best of both worlds, plus the kids will never get bored. And you’d want someone to come in and clean each day. And also some kind of concierge or manager, just for your peace of mind. Someone you could turn to in an emergency, or maybe simply to ask directions and advice.

Sounds too much to hope for, doesn’t it?

Kanda is unique in several ways. It’s a group of luxury self-contained walled pool villas within a resort located just outside Chaweng, on the road to neighbouring Choeng Mon. There are 35 villas in total, with rental options of one, two, three or four bedrooms. There’s a reception lobby, as you’d find in a typical 5-star hotel, and also a super spa and one of the very best restaurants on the island. Whilst all the villas are privately owned, several are residences and permanently occupied, but the others are available to rent for holidays during most of the year. But what makes Kanda unique is that the owners manage the resort as a private co-operative, and are actually shareholders in the property.

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And by agreement any profits made from the lettings are ploughed back into the project by way of capital improvements, repairs and upgrades.

Incidentally, there are also a limited number of villas available for sale, should you be interested.

And one of the biggest benefits of all is the presence of the affable and energetic General Manager, Anthony Van Sleeuwen. He’s the ‘go-to’ guy. He’s the person to call with general queries or to sort out those little daily problems. “There’s a terrific atmosphere here,” he told me. “Meaning that this is one of the most peaceful and tranquil places around. We welcome families, and actually have a kiddies club where they can safely be supervised and entertained, when this is required.

And a babysitting service. Plus we specialise in groups and couples wanting to share a holiday together.”

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What’s particularly innovative is that the rental villas have all been similarly furnished in the same style (by one of the island’s top décorhouses, Oriental Living) so that when you stay there you won’t feel you’re intruding into someone else’s home or personal space. All the accommodations are unusually spacious – 1,000 square metres in the case of the four-bedroom villa – and are kitted-out to a very high standard, including Euro-style kitchens and quite spectacular bathrooms.

The signature Oceanfront Pool Villa (four-bedroom) is exceptional: an enormous glass-fronted living area overlooking the pool, with separate bedroom cottages arranged around it and a delightful Thai-style open ‘sala’ knitting it all together – and with the infinity pool melting into the sea and sky of the Gulf of Thailand.

The restaurant here, RockPool is superb. Not only does it enjoy the same panoramic sea view, but its Executive Chef, Lucas Leonardi Varin, with

his Michelin-starred background, has established a super menu of Mediterranean-based International (and Thai) cuisine. And to add to the ethos of care at Kanda there’s also the option of bringingin a poolside chef to cook for you ‘in-villa’ or to host a poolside barbecue. Plus, in-villa Thai cooking classes can be arranged if you like the idea. All this information, plus their full range of amenities and services can be found documented with some excellent photography on their website – candidly listed below!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 4500. www.kandaresidences.com

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VISA VISTA

Staying on in Thailand? You’ll need to get a visa.

Thailand, with its amazing beaches, friendly atmosphere and fine weather is just the kind of country where people want to stay on… and on. There are thousands of foreign residents who originally came on holiday to Thailand and decided to put down their tent pegs here and call it home. Almost all of us who live here know people who stopped over on their way to somewhere else and somehow never left. Thailand swept them off their feet and they’ve stayed.

It’s not possible in most countries to simply arrive, declare yourself a resident and set up a life for yourself. OK, if you’re a European, you can settle in more or less any other European country, but there’s still the risk that you might end up as an illegal immigrant. In other countries, you’ll need a lot of money, as well as legal help and a guarantor.

But Thailand, along with a few other countries, takes a different stance. It’s an extremely welcoming place and it’s relatively easy to set up here. You may retire here, start a business or work for someone else. But something that every person entering the kingdom has to do, whether staying for a day or a lifetime, is to be in synch with current immigration policies. When you present your passport to the authorities at the point of entry, everything has to be OK’d by them before your stay is rubber-stamped.

So how does it work? – What are the options if you’d like to stay on without being a tourist? Here’s a brief guide, along with some dos and don’ts and a few caveats. It’s by no means complete, nor is it intended to replace legal advice. And last but not least, immigration procedures and requirements can change at any time.

Firstly, never give your passport to someone to take across the border on your behalf; it’s strictly illegal and could land you in a lot of trouble. You have to cross by yourself. And make sure that before you come to Thailand, your passport has enough space for all those stamps. A full passport or one that’s nearly so is impossible to stamp. Obvious, really. And make sure that it’s not been defaced in any way or that your child’s not been at it with crayons.

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Another point is also equally obvious. If you want to stay any length of time, you’ll be going through a bureaucratic procedure and it’s not one that you want to get acquainted with at the last moment; leave yourself plenty of time and allow yourself to work everything out in a calm and unflustered manner. If feasible do so before you come to Thailand.

spouse visa. To qualify, you cannot have a criminal history, and you need to demonstrate that you are solvent and have enough to support yourself for your stay. Needless to say, you’ll need to furnish the authorities with needed paperwork such as the marriage certificate and to satisfy any queries they may have.

Accountants and lawyers are a good place to seek advice – you’ll see their signs everywhere on Samui. They’ll be able to inform you of the best ways to proceed. And they’re up to date on any changes that have been made to the laws. You can also find a lot of help on the web, particularly at mfa.go.th, the official website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. It’s also a good idea to check out sites such as thaivisa.com. This is now a fully-fledged news service, but as the name suggests, it’s there for people wanting to get information on visas. It also has a helpful forum of foreign residents who respond to individual queries.

If you’re solvent and over 50 years, you may apply for a Non-Immigrant Visa Category “O-A” (Long Stay). However, under this aegis, it’s absolutely prohibited to do work of any kind. Ideal if you’re retired, it allows you to stay in the country for a year at a time. Then you’ll need to renew it again. You’ll need to submit the application in the country where you’re resident or where you’re a national. You’ll have to prove that you have no criminal record and are free of various diseases and are not a drug addict.

You’ll also need to prove you have sufficient funds to live in Thailand.

This will be strictly checked and needs to be completely unambiguous.

Something that is very important, especially in the eyes of immigration officials, is that a number of foreign ‘tourists’ aren’t tourists at all. They enter and leave the country multiple times claiming to be on holiday, when really, they’re working here without a work permit. It’s not known how many people are doing this, but it’s a twilight situation that the authorities are keen to clear up.

If you’d like to work in Thailand, you’ll need a non-immigrant B visa. This allows you to get a work permit and to work for a company. You can of course set up your own company, which is easier to do than in many countries. You’ll definitely need the help of a lawyer or accountant to do this. There are different requirements according to whether you wish to work for someone else or for yourself, and so on.

If you’re married to a Thai national, then it’s fairly straightforward to get a

Last but not least, perhaps the easiest way is to obtain an educational

136 l www.samuiholiday.com

Welcome to Sa-ard’s Watersports Center on Koh Samui. Where everyday can be an aquatic adventure – above and below the crystal clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand.

Join us and discover what r eally makes these islands so very special.

Our brand new catamaran Fountaine Pajot Belize 43 “Kindred Spirit” can comfortably take 15 people on a day trip and sleep 6 people on over-night excursions.

visa; as in many countries, this allows you to stay as long as you are studying. Many schools now offer courses and combine these with helping you to get your visa. It’s prohibited to work under this aegis.

When you enter the country, it’s the immigration check-point that decides how long you’ll be able to stay. Often you’ll need to go briefly out of the country every 90 days and on returning, you’ll receive a further 90 days. This is often called a border bounce and may strike some as a strange bureaucratic procedure: you simply leave Thailand for a few minutes before coming back in.

In some cases you may simply need to go to the immigration office on Samui. And by the way, the office has recently changed location. You’ll now find it in Maenam Soi 1, about 400 metres from the ring-road. It’s clearly sign-posted.

The starboard hull has a double stateroom with ensuite bathroom and living area. There are also two double state rooms in the port hull with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find a large galley and a living area with CD/DVD player and a 28 inch colour TV. All the cabins and living areas are fully air-conditioned.

Sa-ard’s Watersports Center also offers Private Speedboat tours to the beaches and snorkeling destinations of the surrounding islands.

Manager and Skipper is Sa-ard, one of Thailand’s most celebrated windsurfers. He took part in the Olympics 1984 in Los Angeles and 1992 in Barcelona, was a long time member of the Thai National Windsurfing Team, has been Asian Champion and 5 times Gold Medal Winner in the South East Asian Games. You simply could not be in better hands!

No matter where you wish to reside in the world, some kind of paperwork is required, but here in Thailand it’s really not too onerous although at first glance it may seem a bit difficult. Many people think that getting a visa is as simple as opening up a savings account in a local bank and as instantaneous. Patience is required but help is always at hand, both from residents who know the procedure and experts who are aware of even the tiniest of details. And once you have your visa, you can relax and begin to enjoy a brand-new life.

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CLEAR WATERS Magic Alambic rum distillery produces the purest of rums in a relaxed garden setting.

Sun and surf are simply not the entire story when it comes to tropical vacations. Postcards may depict glamorous beaches, but there’s hopefully a lot more to holidaying than just a few weeks lazing around on those perfect strands. Samui turns out to be packed with unexpected places, people and even industries. The island has more going for itself than it might at first appear. Take rum, for example, the subject of this article. You might suppose it is in plentiful supply on Samui, and you’d be entirely right.

Bottles of every kind to be had in any half-way decent bar. Sure. And that must be as far as it goes, right?

Well, not many visitors realize that when it comes to rum, Samui turns out to be a far-flung outpost of the Caribbean. Rum is as much at home here as it is there. And here we’re talking about the production of it. Rather than being a port of call, Samui turns out to be a point of origin. The island has its very own distillery, handling everything from the raw product right up to the last stage, distributing the finished product````.

True, it’s not a big production. It’s not concrete ugly, with trucks revving up in a hurry to get the next load delivered. This is the more delicate world of craft drinks, with laid-back entrepreneurs who’re primarily concerned with maintaining great tastes and putting together new ones, rather than with anything else. The old injunction to go for quality not quantity reigns supreme here.

And all other considerations lead on from there. A visit to the distillery isn’t a hard-hat walk through sprawling factories where you’ll be amazed at the gigantic scale of things, it’s the very opposite, so much so that you may find yourself quietly amazed at how … well … idyllic it all is.

The word’s apt. For starters, the distillery is situated in the deep south of the island, where the urban development is at its least. It’s an amazing drive in itself – all trees, mountains, and depending which way you come, glimpses of the sea and coasts that are remote and deserted. On your way there, Magic Alambic’s all too easy to miss – you probably won’t be expecting it to be set in a vast garden. It’s on route 4170 that loops south of the ring-road at Ban Hua Thanon. Simply follow the road until you come to Magic Alambic.

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It’s very agreeable to sit here in the cool shade and look out into the garden. It’s impossible to imagine that anything at all is produced here.

Yet, last year, Magic Alambic produced some 5,000 litres of rum. All from this bucolic setting. No smoke, noise or pollution, either.

Arrive at the right time and you might see long green sticks of sugar cane, fresh cut, and from Thailand itself. Were you to bite into one of those sticks, you’d taste sugar, but not rum. Of course not. So how does it work? How do you get from plant to drink?

Firstly, the sticks get mashed up in a machine, with the leftovers used as compost. So far, so green. It’s then that the magic part begins.

And exactly as with magic, patience is needed to get it right, as the process is an exacting one. Ludovic Trantoul, who owns and runs Magic Alambic outlines what happens: “We start with the juice that’s left over after the sugar cane’s been crushed. We add yeast and this starts the fermentation. After two or three days the big bubbles that mark the process will have stopped.

The sugar has been turned into alcohol. We need to constantly check everything as it’s a challenging process; it has to be just right. Once there’s no sugar percentage at all we boil the juice and this goes into the alembic, which also collects all the vapours and fumes of the alcohol.

We’re finally left with a 75% proof liquid, to which we add distilled water to bring the proof down to 60%.” Afterwards the rum needs to

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be aged and this is done in stainless steel vats. The liquid matures for a year, and then more water is added to bring the rum down to a more drinkable 40% proof. That’s pretty strong, but you’d never think so given the look of the actual rum. It’s completely transparent. Ludovic explains that the traditional colours of rum are solely due to the barrels it’s stored in; the rum leeches the colour from the wood of the barrel and from any remaining liquid it previously held.

Usually colourants and various chemical additives are used in making rum, but at Magic Alambic, it’s extremely pure. Ludovic produces different flavour rums by adding local fruits. You can buy, for example, lemon, orange and pineapple rum, as well as original. Whatever your choice, what’s in the bottle is entirely natural.

People come from all over the world to Samui, and Magic Alambic has welcomed just about every nation to taste some of its rums. There’s a thatched sala where you can find all its products. Generally, guests are bemused to find that any rum at all is being produced on the island in the first place, but once they take a sip they’re equally surprised by its amazing quality.

But rum isn’t the only thing that’s produced here. You can also buy special syrup that comes from a very old Martiniquais recipe – you can

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add it to rum or just mix with water and it’ll fill you with a sense of the Caribbean. And what’s even more surprising is that Ludovic and his team also make food. They produce their own pâté and sausages for their restaurant, La Route du Rhum, which is also on the same premises. It’s open all day, offers lunch, dinner and everything in between, as well as a Sunday buffet and Angus Beef night on Fridays. Focussing on Thai and traditional French food, it’s a great place to spend time, more so for the setting with its huge spaces and beautiful greenery.

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The distillery’s open from 9:00 am until 6:00 pm every day, though closed on Mondays in low season, while the restaurant keeps longer hours. A visit to Magic Alambic is always highly recommended, and though its gardens are typically (and beautifully) Thai, you might equally well be in the Caribbean, rum’s ancient and traditional home. Coming here’s an exquisite experience even if you don’t let Magic Alambic’s top quality rum work its tropical charms on you.

Dimitri Waring

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